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THE   CITIES  AND   CEMETERIES 


ETRURIA. 


THE 


CITIES    AND     CEMETEKIES 

OP 

ETPtUPtlA. 

By    GEORGE     DENNIS. 


l'aiv.\  Tyi-rhcnum  per  iuquor 
Vela  daruiii.  Huit.vT. 


^^a^^'  •■•■■■?)'n 


EEVISfiD    EDITION,    RECOIlDIXd    THE    JIOST    llECEXT    DISCOVERIESv 


IN    TWO    VOLUMES.— YOL.  II. 


WITH     MAP,     PLANS,     AND     ILLUSTRATIONS. 


LONDON : 
JOHN    MURRAY,   ALBEMARLE    STREET. 

1878. 

[TJie  Riijld  of  Translation  is  rcsared.'] 


Statiwe  interejuit  tempestate,  vi,  vetu-^tate  ;  sepulcrorum  autem  sanctitas  in  ipso  solo  est ;  quod 
nulL\  vi  moveri  neque  deleri  jxitest.  Atque  ut  cetera  extinguuntur,  sic  sepulcra  fiunt  sanctiora 
vetostatc. 

Cicero,  ThUip,  vs..  6. 


THE  GETTY  RESEARCH 
Jf4STITUTE  LIBRARY 


CONTENTS   OF  VOLUME  II. 

CHAPTER    XXXIV. 

PAGE 

Italy  an  imkno'wn  land  to  the  antiquary — -^Ir.  Ainsley's  discovery  of  an  Etrus- 
can necropolis  at  Sovana — Its  site — A  city  of  the  plague — Xo  ancient  his- 
tory— The  Fontana — Etruscan  mermaid — Poggio  Prisca — Egyptian-like 
sepulchres — Sopraripa — Grotta  Pola,  and  its  portico — Poggio  Stanziale — 
House-tombs- — Abundance  and  variety  of  sepulchres — Numerous  Etruscan 
inscriptions — Rock-sunk  roads — Excavations  at  Sovana — Great  interest  of 
this  site .       I 

Appendix.     ]\Iouldings  of  tombs  at  iSovana — -Etruscan  inscriptions  .        .        .15 

CHAPTER    XXXV. 

BOLSENA.—  VOLSIXIL 

Acquapendonte — By-roads — Le  Grotte — San  Lorenzo  Yecchio — The  Volsinian 
lake— Charms  of  a  southern  winter — Historical  notices  of  Volsinii — Servile 
insurrection — Site  of  Volsinii,  not  at  Bolscna,  but  on  the  table-land  above 
— Vestiges  of  the  Etruscan  city — Roman  relics — Temple  of  Xortia — The 
amphitheatre  —  Scenery  —  Excavations  around  Bolscna— The  Ravizza 
jewellery — The  miracles  of  Bolsena IS 

CHAPTER    XXXVI. 

MONTE    FIASCONE.— FJiVrJ/    VOLTUMAi^E] 

Lake  of  Bolsena  —  Its  islands,  miracles,  and  malaria — Jlonte  Fiascone — 
Antiquity  of  the  site— Recent  excavations  in  the  vicinity— Cannot  be 
Trossulum — May  be  (Enarca — ]More  probably  is  the  Planum  Voltumnai — 
Speculations  on  that  celebrated  temple — Panorama  of  the  Etruscan  plain  .    29 


Ti  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTEK    XXXVII. 

ORYIETO. 

PAOE 

Delights  of  the  pack-saddle — Civita  di  Bagnoroa,  an  Etruscan  site — Glorious 
position  of  Orvicto — Its  Etruscan  character — Its  ancient  name  unknown — 
Excavations  of  fifty  years  since — Excavations  in  progress  at  tlie  "Crocifisso 
del  Tufo  " — Tombs  arranged  like  houses  in  streets  and  blocks — Peculiar 
inscriptions — Collection  of  the  Count  dclla  Faina — Another  cemetery  on 
the  Irills  opposite — TOMBA  delle  due  Bighe — Under  Charon's  protec- 
tion—The two  chariots— BaiKiuets — ToMRA  Golini — Butcher's  shop — 
Preparations  for  the  feast — Male  and  female  slaves — The  kitchen,  and  the 
cook  at  the  stove — The  butler's  pantry — The  other  half  of  the  tomb — A 
soul  driving  to  Elysium,  conducted  by  a  Lasa,  and  followed  by  a  trumi)etcr 
— Greeted  by  the  bantjueters — Cat  and  monkey — Pluto  and  Proserpine  on 
their  thrones — Sideboard  and  servants — Difference  of  art  in  the  two  halves 
of  this  tomb — Critical  notices — Inn  atOrvieto — Caution  to  travellers — The 
Duomo  of  Orvicto 80 


CHAPTER   XXXYIII. 

LUXI.— ZL'^vi. 

Luna  an  Etruscan  town — Its  glorious  port — Site  and  vestiges  of  Luna — No 
marble  walls — Coins — Historical  records — Its  produce — Wine — Cheese — 
Marble,  now  known  as  that  of  Carrara G3 

CHAPTER    XXXIX. 

PISA.— PJ;S'.£. 

Leghorn — High  antiquity  of  Vwx — Peculiarity  of  the  site — Historical  notices 
— Few  ancient  remains — The  Necropolis  discovered- — Etruscan  uins  in  the 
Campo  Santo 69 

CHAPTER    XL. 

Fl?,E^ZE.— FLO  JiEXTI A. 

Florence,  not  an  Etruscan  site — Museo  Etrusco — Bucchcro,  or  black  ware,  is 
genuinely  Etruscan — Its  Oriental  character — Its  peculiarities — Probably 
sepulchral — Canopi — Yai'ieties- -7'T'«(7rtr(,  or  terra-cotta  trays — The  King 
of  Etruscan  vases — Other  painted  vases —Different  styles — A  Cock-horse 
— Unjiainted  pottery  with  ornaments  in  relief — Jewellery  and  Glass — 
Sepulchral  inscriptions— The  bronzes — The  Minerva  of  Arezzo — Etruscan 
warriors — Mirrors — Tiiscanicn  S'ujua — The  Chiniiura — Cinerary  urns — 
Fondness  of  Etruscan  women  for  wine — Reliefs  on  the  urns,  representing 
Greek  myths  or  native  customs — Urn  of  Arnth  Cades  Vibenna — The  Orator 
— The  Amazon  sarcophagus — Masterly  jjaintings — Must  be  by  a  Greek 
artist — Bronzes — Suit  of  Etruscan  armour — Vases  in  bronze — Situla  of 
silver — Bronze  handles  to  furniture — Etruscan  Compass  1 — Urns  of  terra- 


CONTENTS. 


cotta — Warrior  in  relief,  iir  the  Palazzo  I'.tionaiToti — The  Stro/.zi  mirroi' — 
Kinsjiilar  discovery  of  bronzes  on  Monte  Falterona — Lake  full  of  antiquities 
— \'otive  offerings — -Mystery  of  the  lake  exphiincd — Style  of  the  bronzes 
■ — Singular  tomlj  at  Fi^line — Etruscan  relics  in  the  ncigliliourhood  of 
Florence       .............     H 

Appendix.     The  Francois  Vast — 'J'hc  Amazon  SarcopJiagus       .         .         .         .  li:> 

CHAPTEIl   XLI. 

Interest  of  Fiesolc — The  Etruscan  walls — Character  (jf  the  masonrj' — Ancient 
pavement,  and  sewers — Fascinum — Roman  Gateway  outside  the  walls — 
Extent  of  the  city- walls — FjBsulas  not  a  first-rate  city — "The  top  of  Fesole" 
— Iloman  Theatre — '•  Etruscan  Palace" — The  Fairies'  Dens — Fonte  Sottcrra 
— Another  ancient  reservoir — No  tombs  open  around  Fiesolc — History  of 
F;v;sulai — La  Kadia        .         .         .         .         . 1I(> 


CHAPTEK  XLII. 

SIENA.— ,S'^A^yL 

Siena,  not  an  Etruscan  site — Collections  of  Etruscan  antiquities — Curious  dis- 
covery of  Gallic  gold  ornaments — Tomb  of  the  Cilnii — Etruscan  tombs, 
near  Poggibonsi — Alphabetical  tomb,  near  Colle — Pelasgic  alphabet  and 
horn-book — Excavations  at  Pienza— Moutalcino,  its  tombs  and  wine  .  12'J 

CHAPTEK  XLIII. 

Y  0  LTER  R  A.  —  VBLA  TIIUI.  —  VOLA  TEEIU-:. 

The  City. 

Commanding  position  of  Yolterra — Size  and  importance  of  the  ancient  city — 
History  of  Yolaterraj — Loeanda  dell'  Unione — Modern  A\)lter7'a — Poi'ta 
aU'  Arco,  undoubtedly  Etruscan — Three  mysterious  heads — JIasonry — 
Portcullis — Ancient  walls  under  Sta.  Chiara — Le  Baize — Porta  di  Diana — 
Fragments  of  the  city-walls — Extent  of  the  ancient  city — Amphitheatre 
— Piscina — Baths — The  necropolis— Grotta  de'  Marmini — Tombs  of  the 
OfficinsB — Tholi,  or  domed  sepulchres — Excavations — Tombs  in  the  Villa 
Inghirami — Scenery  around  Yolterra — Buchc  dc'  Saracini — Mysterious 
passages  in  the  rock 1  ;5G 

CHAPTER  XLIV. 

YOLTERRA.     FOLA  TElUUi. 

The  MrsEUiM. 

The  Museum  of  Yolterra,  and  its  treasures — Ash-chests  of  Yolterra — Condition 
of  woman  in  Etruria — Belles  and  pomegranates — Mythological  rn-ns — 
Myths  of  Thebes — Myths  of  the  Trojan  war — ]^lyths  of  Ulysses,  and  Orestes 
— Etruscan    marine    divinities  —  Scylla — Glaucus  —  Echidna — 'J'yphon — 


CONTEXTS. 


Monsters  of  the  sea,  earth,  ami  air — Scenes  of  Etiiiscan  life — Boar-hunts— 
Games  of  the  circus — I'rocessions,  judicial,  triumphal,  funereal — Sacri- 
tices — Schools — Banquets — Death-bed  scenes — Last  farewells — The  passage 
of  soids — Good  and  evil  demons — Funeral  processions — Etruscan  cars — 
Sarcophagi — Toucliing  character  of  these  scenes — Urns  of  the  Ciecina 
family — Urns  of  the  Gracchi  and  Flavii — Antiquity  of  the  urns  of  Vol- 
terra — Terra-cotta  urns — The  Flight  of  Medeia — Kelief  of  a  wan-ior — 
Marble  statue — Etruscan  pottery  of  Volterra — Broiazes— Etruscan  Lemur 
— Coins — Jewellery KIO 

Appendix.    The  Charun  of  the  Etruscans r.»l 

CHAPTER   XL^'. 

THE    MAEEMMA. 

Attractions  of  the  3Iaremma — Road  from  Yolterra — The  Cecina — Pomarance — 
CastelnuoTO — Hill  of  Castiglion  Bernardi — Pretended  site  of  Yetnlonia — 
Massa  Marittima — Poggio  di  Yetreta — Yicwof  the  Mai'emma — Follonica — 
Exearations  of  ^I.  Xoeldes  Yergers — Beloria — Tumuli — Bibbona — Castag- 
neto — Le  Caldane — Maremma  wilderness — Population  and  climate  of  the 
Maremma  in  ancient  and  modern  times — ■'  Pioba  di  Maremma  " — Cam- 
])iglia — Pretended  ruins  of  Yetulonia — Alberti's  account  questioned — 
Etrtiscan  remains  near  Campiglia — Panorama  from  Campiglia  Yecchia      .  194 

Appexdix.     The  Yia  Aurelia,  from  Cosa  to  Luna 211 

CHAPTER    XLVI. 

VOP\JLO:SlX.—POPCLOXIA. 

Road  to  Populonia — Ancient  port — Tlie  castle  and  its  hospitable  lords — Area 
of  the  ancient  city — Its  antiquity  and  importance — Historical  notices — 
Local  remains — The  specular  mount — Etruscan  walls  and  tombs  of  Popu- 
lonia— Coins — Gorgoneion 212 

CHAPTER  XLVII. 

EOSELLE.  —R  USELL^. 

Road  from  Follonica — Colonna  di  Buriano — Grosseto — The  Locanda — The 
Museum — Etruscan  alphabet — Site  of  Rusellte — Its  ancient  *  walls  and 
gates — Area  of  the  city — Modern  defences — The  ancient  Arx — Lago  di 
Castiglione — Paucity  of  tombs  aroitnd  the  city — Frangois'  excavations — 
Archaic  goddess  in  bronze — Eusellfe  supposed  to  be  one  of  the  Twelve — 
Historical  notices — Utter  desolation 222 


CHAPTER  XLYIII. 

TELAMOXE.— rZ-ZJ-l/O.Y. 

The  Ombrone — Village  of  Telamone — Caution  to  travellers — Ancient  remains 
— Legendary  and  historical  notices — The  port — Road  to  OrbetcUo — The 
Osa  and  Albegna — Ferries 23j 


CONTEXTS.  ix 

CHAPTER    XLIX 

OKliKTKLLO. 

PACE 

Orbctcllo  and  its  fortifications — Tlie  lagoon — Polj-gonal  walls — Etruscan  tombs 
and  their  furniture — The  site  proved  to  be  Etruscan — The  modern  town   ' 
and  its  hostelry 240 

CHAPTER    L. 

A'SSEDO'SIA.-C'OSA. 

Position  of  Cosa — Advice  to  travellers — "Walls  of  polygonal  masonry — Size  of 
the  town — Towers — Peculiarities  of  the  walls — Gateways — Uuins  within 
the  walls — The  Arx — View  from  the  ramparts — Bagni  della  Hegina — Lack 
of  tombs — Who  built  these  walls  .' — Antiquity  of  polygonal  masonry — 
rcouliarity  of  the  polygonal  type — Probably  Pelasgic — The  local  rock 
sometimes,  not  always  determines  the  style  of  masonry — Cosa  cannot  l)c 
Pioman— High  anticpiity  of  its  walls — Historical  notices      ....  245 

CHAPTER   LI. 

VETULOXIJ. 
ilagliano — Discovery  of  an  Etruscan  city  in  its  neighbourhood — Position  and 
extent  of  this  city — Disinterment  of  the  walls — liemains  discovered  on 
the  site — Sepulchres  and  their  furniture — Painted  tombs — llelation  to  the 
port  of  Tclanion — What  was  the  name  of  this  city  ? — It  must  be  Yetulonia — - 
Notices  of  that  ancient  city — Accordance  with  that  which  occupied  this  site 
— Maritime  character  of  Yetulonia — ^Monumental  evidence — Speculations  .  2G3 

CHAPTER    LH. 

SATUKNIA.— -S-^  TURNIA. 
Eoads  to  Saturnia — Scansano — Travelling  difficulties — Site  of  Saturnia — The 
modern  village — A  wise  resolve — Area  of  the  ancient  city — Walls  of  poly- 
gonal masonry — Eelics  of  other  days — Natural  beauties  of  the  site — 
Sepulchral  remains  around  it — Fare  at  the  Fattoria — Advice  to  travellers 
— -Piano  di  Palma — Singular  tombs — Resemblance  to  cromlechs — Analo- 
gous monuments — Speculations  on  their  origin — The  city  and  its  walls  are 
Pelasgic — Who  constructed  the  tombs  ? — The  type  not  proper  to  one  race 
— Monte  Merano — Manciano — Discovery  of  a  nameless  Etruscan  town      .  27.> 

CHAPTER    LIII. 

CHIUSI.— c'zr,S7ra/. 
The  City. 

Eoad  from  I'itigliano — Piadicofaui — Probably  an  Etruscan  site — Clusium,  its 
antiquity,  history,  and  decay — The  inn  and  the  clcrrvtu- — Ancient  walls 
— Other  lions — Subterranean  passages — The  Jewellers'  Field — MusEO 
Civico —  Canopus — Statue-urn — Archaic  cij>j)i — Interesting  sarcophagus 
— Cineraiy  ui"ns — Demons  and  chimicras — Terra-cotta  lu-ns — Tlirce  Etrus- 
can Alphabets — Ancient  black  ware  of  Clusium — Focolnrl — Canopi — 
lironzes — Extraordinary  cinerary  pot — Painted  vases         ....  290 

Appendix.     The  Via  Cassia,  from  Pome  to  Clusium — The  Casuccini  Collection 

of  Etruscan  antiquities -jIS 


CONTENTS. 


CHArTP]K    LIV. 

CHiusi.— c7.r,s7rj/. 

Tl[E    rKMKTKUY. 

PAGE 

The  necropolis  of  Cluj^ium— Tohba  del  Colle  Casuccixi— Ancient  Ktnisoan 
door — Chariot-rai'os — raliustric  games — A  xijmjwslnm — An  Etruscan  butler 
— rcculiarities  of  these  paintings — Date  of  their  execution — Deposito  de' 
Dei — Deposito  delle  Moxache — Its  furniture — Discovery  of  this  tomb 
— Anotlier  painted  tomb — Tomba  del  I'ostino — To:\tRA  della  ^CIMIA — 
Oanics — Dwarfs  and  monkeys — Mediieval  character  of  these  scenes-  -Inner 
chamber — Characteristics  of  these  paintings — Singular  well  or  shaft — 
Another  painted  tomb  of  archaic  style — Tombs  of  Poggio  Kenzo — Lake  of 
Cliiusi — Deposito  del  (Iran  Duca — An  arched  vault — Its  contents — 
Deposito  di  Vigna  Grandi:— A  perfect  vault— Tomba  d'Orfeo  e 
d'Euridice — Poggio  del  Vcscdvo— Well-tombs 320 

Appendix.     Deposito  de'  Dei — Tomb  of  Orpheus  and  Eurydice   .        .        .     .  342 


CHArTER    LV. 

cHirsi.— czTA'/rj/. 

ro(;Gio  Gajklla. 

The  tomb  of  Lars  Porscna — Not  wholly  fabulous — Analogies  in  extant  monu- 
ments— The  labyrinth  in  Porsena's  tomb — Tumulus  of  Poggio  Gajella — 
Hive  of  tombs — Pock-hcwn  couches — Sepulchral  furniture — The  tomb 
sadly  neglected — Labyrinthine  passages  in  the  rock — \Vliat  can  they 
mean  ? — Analogies — Peality  of  Porsena's  monument  vindicated  as  regards 
the  substructions 345 

Appendix,     Lars  Porscna 357 


CHAPTER    LYI. 

CETOXA    AND    SAKTEANO. 

Etruscan  sites  round  Chiusi — Cetona- — Museo  Terrosi — Painted  ash-chests — 
Archaic  ivory  cup — Sarteano — Etruscan  urns  in  the  Museo  Bargagli — 
I'rimitive  cemetery  near  Sarteano — Etruscan  collection  of  Signer  Fanelli 
— Tombs  of  Sarteano  and  Castiglioncel  del  Trinoro 3ii9 


CHAPTER    LVH. 

CHIAXCIAXO    AND    MONTKPULCIANO. 

Scenic  beauties — Chianciano — The  Bartoli  collection — The  tombs  and  their 
peculiarities — ^lontepulciano— Etruscan  relics  in  the  Casa  Angelotti,  and 
the  I'alazzo  Buecelli — The  ilanna  of  Montepulciano  — Val  di  Chiaua — 
lioyal  farms  and  cattle — Etruscan  tombs 368 

Appendix.     Via  Cassia,  from  Clusiuui  to  Luca  and  Pis;e  .        ,        .     .  374 


CONTENTS.  xi 

CHAPTEU    LYUl. 

CITTA    J. A    I'lKVE. 

PAGE 

Position  of  the  town — Etruscan  collection  of  Si;,nior  (iuindici — Admirable  statue 

of  I'roscrijine — The  Taccini  collection  of  Etni<can  uins,  very  choice  .         .  :57.'> 

(Jl lAPTEll    LIX. 

AllEZZO.—JnRCTId.V. 

<jlories  of  Arczzo — Arrctium,  its  importance  and  history — -Ancient  walls  of 
biick — A miihi theatre — Ancient  potter}- — its  peculiarities — M<jdern  Arezzo 
coveis  the  Etruscan  necropolis — MusEO  I'ubulico — -Bronzes — Potteiy — 
The  Amazon  Itniicr — Bilingual  inscription — I'elops  and  Hippodameia — 
Death  of  (Enomaus — The  three  Koman  colonics  of  Arretiunr — Discovery 
of  ancient  walls  at  S.  Cornelio — Arezzo  cannot  be  the  Etruscan  Arrctium  ,  379 

CHAPTEK    LX. 

CO  ItTON  A . —coil  Tux  A . 

Venerable  anticpiity  of  Cortona — The  modern  town — The  p.ncicnt  fortifications 
— Cortona  at  sun-rise — Origin  of  Curtona — Early  importance — Historical 
notices — Local  remains  within  the  walls — Vault  in  the  Casa  Cecchetti — 
Museum  of  the  Academy — Pottery  and  bronzes — Boy  with  name  inscribed 
on  bis  shirt — The  wonderful  lamp — The  Muse  I'olyhymnia — Tombs  of 
Cortona — The  Cave  of  Pythagoras — Singular  construction — Cromlech-like 
tombs — Grotta  Sergardi — Peculiar,  construction — The  ilelon  tumulus,  and 
its  furniture — Great  interest  of  Cortona 391 

CHAPTER    EXI. 

PERUGIA. —PER  I.  'SI A. 
Tin:  City. 

Travelling  incidents — The  Thrasymenelake — The  celebrated  battle — Passignano 
— lutlamuiable  waters — Magione — Vale  of  the  Caina — Perugia — Its  modern 
interest — Ancient  walls  and  gates — Arch  of  Augustus — Porta  Marzia — The 
Museum — Cinerary  urns — The  longest  Etruscan  inscription — Cippi — 
Bronzes — Jewellery — iIirror.s — Vases  and  TeiTa-cottas — .Stone  sarcophagus 
—  Dionysiac  Amphora — Another  singular  sarcophagus  —  Anti<|uity  of 
Penasia — History 413 

CHAPTEP    LXn. 

TEliUinA.—J'ERCSLl. 
Tim-:  Ce-meteky. 

Tomb  of  the  Volumnii — P.anquet  of  the  dead— Dantesque  monument — Tcniple- 
urn,  with  a  bilingual  inscription — Gorgons'  heads — Decorations  of  the  tomb 
— Demons  and  snakes — The  side  chambers — The  Velimnas  Family — Date 
of  the  tomb — Sepulchres  of  Etruscan  families — The  Baglioni  collection — 
Painted  ash-chests — Great  interest  of  the  Grotta  dc*  Volunni — Tcmitio  di 
•San  Manno — A  vault  with  an  Etruscan  in-scription 4:57 


xii  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTKIl    LXIII. 
1?0ME. 

VACK 

The  Etrn.scan  antiquities  in  Piome — MusEO  Gregouiako— Origin  of  the 
Museum — Visitors'  diliiculties — Vestilmle — Chamber  of  the  Cinerary  Urns 
— JIarble  sarcophagus— Chamber  of  the  Sarcophagus — Hut-urns  from  the 
Alban  Blount — Chamber  of  Terra-Cottas — The  Adonis-urn  —  Etruscan 
portraits — First  Vase-Koom  —  Second  Vase-Uoom — Acliilles  and  Ajax 
playing  at  dice — Quadrant,  or  Third  Yase-Uoom — Fourth  Vase-Koom — 
Xylihcf — Bronzes — Armour  and  Aveapous — Bronze  vases — Candclabia — 
Statues  —  Tripods — Caskets  —  Varieties  —  Mirrors  —  Clogs  —  Jewellery  — 
Gold  ornaments — Coronaj  Etrusca; — Silver  bowls — Chamber  of  Paintings 
— Chamber  of  the  Tomb— Etruscan  Museum  of  the  Capitol— Sig. 
Angnsto  Castellani — Incense-burners — Archaic  pottery — Etruscan  torch — 
Silver  s'ltvla — Archaic  teri'a-cotta  figure — Primitive  Corinthian  Vase  from 
Cervetri— The  "Wolf  of  the  Capitol — Sepulchral  rnha  from  the  Esquiline. 
quite  Etruscan  in  character — A  triple  coffin — Ivory  tablets — Sepulchral 
well  of  terra-cotta — Archaic  heads — Kircherian  Museum — Terra-cottas 
— Pottery — Coins  from  Vicarello — Bronzes — The  celebrated  Casket — The 
Palestrina  Treasure — Wonderful  gold  ornaments — Silver  bowls — Curious 
bronzes — The  Vulcian  fi-escoes — Sacrifice  of  Trojan  captives — Etruscan 
history  in  fi'esco — CreTes  Vibenna  and  Servius  Tullius — An  augur  in  toga 
p'icia 453 


CHAPTEPt    LXIV. 

BOLOGNA.— i=^i;Z,S'AV.-i,    BONOXIA. 

Felsina.  the  metropolis  of  Etruria  Circumpadana — Site  of  the  ancient  city — 
Probably  on  the  heights  behind  Bologna — Count  Gozzadini  and  Cavalicre 
Antonio  Zannoni — Their  labours  with  sjDade  and  pen — Ccmcteiy  of 
Villaxova,  discovered  and  excavated  by  Count  Gozzadini — Tomljs — 
Contents — Ossuary  pots — Double-cups — Whorls — JEs  rude — The  iwndcrd, 
of  Horace  —  Bronze  and  iron — Gongs — Spindles — Antiquity  of  this 
cemetery  —  La  Certosa — Discovery  of  a  cemetery  by  Cav.  A.  Zannoni 
— The  Sepulchres — Burial  v.  burning — Contents  exhibited  in  MusEO 
Civico — Tombstones  with  reliefs — Cinerary  i;rns  of  bronze — The  tombs 
and  their  occupants — The  Situla  and  its  reliefs — Jewellery — Greek  pottery 
— The  Scavi  Arxoaldi — Stclce  with  Etruscan  inscriptions—  Scavi  Bexacci 
— Very  early  pottery — Scavi  de  Luca — Slabs  with  reliefs  and  inscriptions 
— T'lnt'mnahula — Scavi  dell'  Aesenale — Beautiful  jewellery  with  primitive 
pottery — Scavi  ^JIalvasia-Tortoeelli — Sepulchres  within  the  walls  of 
Bologna — Primitive  relief  of  a  pair  of  calves — Scavi  del  Pradello — 
Tombs  or  hovels  ? — Curious  discovery  of  an  ancient  foundry — The  Etruscan 
cemetery  at  Marzabotto — ^lisano — Sepulchres  or  habitations? — I\lisa- 
nello — Singular  well-tombs — Colfer-tombs — Dolmens — Tomb  or  temple  of 
masonry — Etruscan  inscriptions — Statuettes  in  bronze — Group  of  Mars 
and  Venus — Jewellery — Antiquities  of  Bologna  show  inferior  civilization 
to  that  of  Etruiia  Proper — Earliest  tombs  in  both  lands  have  a  common 
origin — Brizio  takes  them  to  be  Umbrian — His  argument — Concstabile's 
and  Gozzadini's  opinions uUL> 


LIST   OF   ILLUSTIIATIONS  TO  VOLUME  IL 


PAGE 


THE   FAREWELL   OF   ADilETL'S  AXD   ALCESTIS.    FlOlU  .1  traciuji-.     FrOlltiqurn-. 

TOMB  CALLED   "  LA   FOXTANA,"   AT   SOVANA tJ.  LX  7 

FAgADE   OP   A  TOMB   AT   SOVANA G.  D.  ]  1 

MOULDINGS   OF   TOMBS   AT   SOVANA (r.  D.  IT) 

ETRUSCAN   INSCRIPTIONS,  SOVANA G.  D.  KI.IT 

CIVITA  DI  BAGNAR:fiA From  a  Photograph  37 

MANClNl's  EXCAVATIONS  AT  ORVIETO    ....    Fr.nii  a  Photograph  4;5 

VIEW  OP  ORVIETO FroQi  a  Photograpli  49 

A   SOUL   DRIVING   TO   ELYSIUM,   TOMBA   GOLINI,   ORVIETO        .           Conestabilc  55 

PLUTO   AND   PROSERPINE   IN   HADES,        DITTO           DITTO                  .    Conostabile  58 

COIN  ASCRIBED  TO  LUNA Mus.  Gregor.  (1:5 

THE  CHIM.ERA,  ETRUSCAN  MUSEUM,  FLORENCE        .        From  a  Photograph  74 

ARCHAIC   VASE   IN   ETRUSCAN   BLACK   WARE Micali  77 

CANOPUS,  FROM   CHIUSI ]\Iicali  78 

JUG   IN  THE   SHAPE   OF   A   FISH Auil.  Illst.  7!) 

HIPPALECTRYON,   OR   COCK-HORSE,  FROM   A   GREEK   VASE             .        Anil.  Inst.  84 

THE  MINERVA,  ETRUSCAN  MUSEUM,  FLORENCE     ,        .  From  a  Phot<igrai)h  87 

HALL  OP  THE   ORATOR,  ETRUSCAN   MUSEUM,  FLORENCE   Froill  a  Photograph  '.l7 

ETRUSCAN   HELMET,   SITULA,   AND   CENOCHOE              .           .           .          ConCStabile  103 

THE   WALLS  OF   F.ESUL^ E.  W.  Cookc,  E.A.  IIT. 

ANCIENT   G.VTE,   OUTSIDE   F.ESUL.E E.  AV.  Cooke,  Pi.A.  120 

KYLIX,   WITH   A   FL'RY   AND   TWO   SATYRS              .           .           .  Musco  GrOgOliano  128 

INSCRIPTION — "CVENLES" .       G.  D.  131 

PELASGIC  ALPHABET  ON  THE  WALLS  OF  A   TOMB    .          .           .      .   Dempster  133 

ETRUSCAN  WALLS   OF  VOLTERRA G.  D.  13(; 

INSCRIPTION — "VELATHRl" G.  D.  131> 

PORTA  all'  arco,  VOLTERRA From  a  Pliotograph  141 

ETRUSCAN  MARINE  DEITY Micali  1(10 

INSCRIPTION — "AU.   CEICNA" G    D.  185 

INSCRIPTION — "CEACNA" G    D.  18G 


siv  LIST    OF    ILLUSTRATIONS    TO    VOLUME    II. 

PAGE 

ETBUSCAX  LEMUR Museo  Chiusino  189 

ETBUSC.VX  CAXDELABEUM JIuseo  Gregoriano  100 

VIEW  OF  POPVLONIA G.  D.  212 

ETHr«;CAN'  WALLS  OF  POPULONIA S.  J.  Ainslev  218 

ETBUSCAX  GOBGOXEIOX :Micali  221 

ETBrSKTAX  WALLS  OF  BUSELL.E     .           .           .           .           .           .            S.  J.  Ainsley  222 

ETBUSCAX  ALPHABET,   GBOSSETO G.  D.  22-1: 

BRONZE  DIVINITY,  FBOM  BUSELL.E J>om  .1  Photograph  233 

ANCIEXT  GATE  AND  WALLS  OF  CO?A G.  D.  245 

AN'CIEXT  TOMB,  SATUBXIA G.  D.  27r, 

BADICOFAXI E.  W.  f 'ojkc.  E.A.  290 

FOCOLAEE — BLACK  WARE   OF  CHIUSI Micali  ?,(>' 

ETBUSCAX  CAXOPUS,  MUSEL-^kl  OF  CHIUSI         .          .          .           ^lusoo  Chiusino  oOS 

CIXERABT  POT.  FROM  CHIUSI From  a  Photograph  311 

ETBUSCAX  WARBIOE.   CASUCCIXI   COLLECTIOX           ....         Micali  310 

THE  AX'UBIS-VASE,  FROM  CHIUSI Museo  Chiusino  31 S 

BIGA   IX   A   CHARIOT-RACE.  FROM   A  TOMB  AT   CHIUSI     .           .           Mon.  Inst.  320 

DOOR  OF  AX   ETBUSCAX   TOMB,   CHIUSI G.  D.  322 

siMPULUM fiasco  Gregoriano  325 

PUGILISTS.  PrRBHICHISTES.  AXD  DWARFS,  MOXKEY  TOMB,  CHIUSI   Mon.  Inst.  332 

HORSE-RACERS  AXD   ATHLETES.   MOXKEY   TOMB,   CHIUSI   .           .       MoD,  Inst.  333 

CIXERARY   UEX,   SHAPED   LIKE  AX   ETRU.SCAX   HOUSE    .           .           .           Braun  345 

ETBUSCAX  SPHixx Braun  3.")2 

HERCULES  COMCATIXG   THE   AMAZOXS.   MUSEUM   OF   AREZZO          .  Mon.  Inst.  387 
SATYRS     AXD     HARPY,     FROM     THE     ETRUSCAX     LAMP,    COBTOXA     MUSEUM 

Mon.  Inst.  394: 

AXCIEXT  WALLS  OF  CORTOXA '.   G.  D.  8'J7 

BOY  IX  BBOXZE Ann.  Inst.  402 

THE  ETBUSCAX  LAMP,  CORTOXA  MUi^EUM Mon.  Inst.  403 

HEAD  OF  HYPXOS,   FBOM   PEBUGIA Mon.  Inst.  413 

ARCH  OF  AUGUSTUS.  PERUGIA From  a  Photograph  419 

ETRUSCAX  FOUB-WIXGED   DEITY Micali  427 

PAIXTED  AMPHOBA  WITH   A  POIXTED   BASE        ....       3Ion.  In.«t.  431 

KALPIS.  OB  WATEB-.JAB Gruner  43<» 

KBATEB,  WITH   DECOBATIOXS   IX   BELIEF CoHCStaLile  437 

BILIXGU^VL  IXSCBIPTIOX G.  D.  440 

AMPHOBA,   PEBFECT   STYLE G.  D.  452 

HUT-UBX   FBOM   THE   ALBAX   MOUNT Vi>COnti  457 

ETBUSCAX  POBTBAIT,   FBOM   VULCI Birch  459 

KYATHUS.   OB  DBIXKIXG-BOWL Micali  471 

BBOXZE  VISOR Musco  Gregoriaiio  470 

ETBUSCAX  LITUUS.  OB  TRUMPET Museo  Gregoriano  476 


LIST    OF    PLANS    TO    VOLUME    11. 


XV 


BROXZE  i:\vrAi 

ETRUSCAN   ARUSPEX 
ETRUSCAX   CAXDELABRA 

FIRE-RAKE 

ETKITSCAN  JOINTED  CLOGS. 
ETRrSCAN  STELA,   BOLOGNA  MUSEUM 


PAOE 

.  Muson  (jrcEToriano  477 

Musco  Gregoriaiio  478 

JIusco  (ire,!,'oriano  47i> 

Musco  Gregoviano  481 

.  Musco  Grcgoriano  484 

.  I'-rom  a  rhotojrrai)h  500 


LIST   OF   PLAXS   IX   A^ULOIE   II. 

PLAN   OF  SOVANA   AND   ITS   NECROPOLIS G.  D.  5 

PLAN  OF  VOLSINII    .        .  ' From  Canina  IS 

PLAN  OF  FIESOLE From  Mieali  122 

PLAN  OF  VOLTEERA.   ANCIENT   AND  MODEP.N   ....      From  ^licali  144 

PLAN  OF  POPULONIA From  Micali  217 

PLAN  OF  RUSELL3: Adaptca  from  :\Iicali  22(; 

PLAN  OF  COSA Adapted  from  Micali  247 

PLAN  OF  PART  OF  THE  POGGIO  GAJELLA       ....     From  Gruncr  :;rjl 

PLAN  OF  CORTONA Adapted  from  Micali  .39.5 

PLAN  OF  PERUGIA Adapted  from  Murray  416 

MAP  OF  ETRUEIA From  Scgato  and  otlicrs     at  tlicrnd 


THE    CITIES   AND    CEMETEKIES 


OF 


ETRUKIA. 


CHAPTER    XXXIV. 

SOVAXA.— .S7,'J.VJ. 
Novella  ilall'  Etruria  porto. — Filicaja. 

La  geiite  che  per  li  sepolcri  giace 

Potrebbesi  vecler  ? — gia.  son  levati 

Tutti  i  coperul)j,  e  ne.s.sun  guardia  face. — L»a.\te. 

We  are  apt  to  regard  Ital}'  as  a  country  so  thoroughly  beaten 
by  travellers  that  little  new  can  be  said  about  it ;  still  less  do  we 
imagine  that  relics  of  the  olden  time  can  exist  in  the  open  air, 
and  remain  unknown  to  the  world.  Yet  the  truth  is,  that  vast 
districts  of  the  Peninsula,  especially  in  the  Tuscan,  Pioman,  and 
Neapolitan  States,  are  to  the  archreologist  a  terra  incognita. 
Every  monument  on  the  high-roads  is  familiar,  even  to  the  fire- 
side traveller;  but  how  little  is  known  of  the  by-ways!  Of  the 
swarms  of  foreigners  who  yearly  traverse  the  country  between 
Florence  and  Piome,  not  one  in  a  hundred  leaves  the  beaten 
tracks  to  visit  objects  of  antiquit}';  still  fewer  make  a  journe}'  into 
the  intervening  districts  expressly  for  such  a  purpose.  How 
many  leave  the  train  to  explore  the  antiquities  of  Cortona,  Chiusi, 
or  Orvieto "?  or  if  a  few  run  from  Pome  to  Corneto  to  visit  the 
painted  tombs,  not  a  tithe  of  that  small  number  continue  their 
route  to  Yulci,  Toscanella,  or  Cosa.  That  wide  region,  on  the 
frontiers  of  the  former  Tuscan  and  Poman  States,  which  has 
been  the  subject  of  the  last  two  chapters,  is  so  rarely  trodden  by 
the  foot  of  a  traveller,  even  of  an  antiquary,  that  it  cnn  be  no 
matter  of  surprise  that  relics  of  ancient  art  should  exist  there, 
and  be  utterly  unknown  to  the  world — gazed  at  with  stupid 
astonishment  b}'  the  peasantry,  or  else  more  stui)idly  unheeded. 
In  a  country  almost  depopulated  by  malaria,  inhabited  only  by 

vol,.    11.  u 


2  SOYAXA.  [chap,  xxxiv. 

shepherds  and  hushandinen.  and  never  traversed  by  the  educated 
and  intelligent,  the  most  striking  monnments  may  remain  for 
ages  nnnoticed.  So  it  was  with  the  magniticent  temples  of 
Pffistum.  Though  they  had  reared  their  mighty  columns  to  the 
sunbeams  for  some  three  and  twenty  centuries,  isolated  in  an 
open  plain  where  they  were  visible  for  many  a  league,  and  stand- 
ing on  the  sea-shore,  where  they  nnist  have  served  for  ages  as  a 
landmark  to  tlie  mariner  ;  yet  their  ver^'  existence  had  been  for- 
gotten, till  in  the  middle  of  the  last  century  a  Neapolitan  painter 
discovered  them  afresh,  rescuing  them  from  an  oblivion  of  fifteen 
hundred  years. ^  So  in  Etruria,  the  interesting  cemeteries  of 
Xorchia  and  Castel  d'Asso  were  brought  to  light  not  seventy  j'ears 
ago  by  some  sportsmen  of  Yiterbo.  I  am  now  about  to  describe 
some  other  remarkable  remains  of  Etruscan  antiquity,  which  owe 
their  rediscovery  to  the  intelligent  enterprise  of  an  Englishman. 

In  the  spring  of  1843,  ^Ir.  Ainslev,  my  former  fellow-traveller 
in  Etruria,  in  the  course  of  a  third  tour  through  this  interesting 
land,  penetrated  to  I'itigliano,  and  thence  made  an  excursion  to 
Sovana.  Being  aware  that  that  place  was  known  only  as  the  site 
of  the  Roman  Suana,  lie  had  no  reason  to  expect  relics  of 
Etruscan  times  ;  yet,  having  established  such  an  antiquity  for 
Pitigliano,  he  shrewdly  suspected  the  same  for  the  neighbouring 
site.  Here  he  inquired  for  antiquities.  Antiquities  ! — Nobody 
at  Sovana  had  ever  heard  of  such  "  roha."  Erom  the  provost  to 
the  hind,  all  were  alike  ignorant.  But  his  curiosity  was  excited 
by  some  columharia  and  rock-hewn  tombs  of  familiar  character, 
and  he  proceeded  to  explore  the  surrounding  ravines. 

His  suspicions  were  soon  confirmed.  Here  were  tombs  with 
rock-hewn  facades  as  at  Norchia  and  Castel  d'Asso, -^and,  follow- 
ing the  range  of  clifis,  he  came  to  a  monument  in  the  form  of  a 
temple,  in  a  style  both  unique  and  beautiful.  His  surprise  and 
dehght  at  this  discovery  explained  to  the  villagers  who  accom- 
panied him  the  nature  of  the  objects  he  was  seeking.  They  were 
no  less  astonished  to  find  a  stranger  display  such  interest  in 
what  to  their  simple  minds  was  meaningless,  or  a  mere  "  scherzo  " 
— a  freak  of  Nature  imitating  Art,  or  a  fanciful  work  carved  in  an 
idle  or  wanton  mood  by  the  ''rude  forefathers  of  the  hamlet." 

*  I  give  the  current  story,  ■which  I  be-  to  the  painter's  discoveiy,  which  was  1755. 

lieve,  however,  to  have  been  disproved  as  See  Dcl;'j;ardette,  Ruines  de  Pii'stum,  p.  15. 

regards   the    discoverer, — a  description  of  It  is  at  least  established  that  those  niar\'els 

the    temples    having    been    published    at  of  Greek  art  have  been  known  to  Europe 

Naples,   by  Antonini,  in  his  work  on  Lu-  for  little  more  than  a  centurj-. 
cania,  ten  years  before  the  date  assigned 


CHAP.  XXXIV.]  DISCOVERY    OF    THIS    NECROPOLIS.  3 

"  Scherzi,  schcrz'i  ' — is  that  tlie  rohtt  you  want?  tliere  are  plenty 
of  such  u-Jiiins.'"  cried  they  ;  and  they  led  him  on  iVom  one  rock- 
hewn  monument  to  another,  which  excited  his  surprise  and 
admiration  L}'  theii*  multitude,  variet}',  and  novel  character,  and 
afforded  him  convincing  evidence  of  the  Etruscan  origin  of 
Sovana.  He  returned  day  after  day  to  the  spot,  and  in  defiance 
of  a  midsummer  sun,  and  its  noxious  influences,  persevered  till 
he  had  made  finished  drawings  of  the  most  remarkahle  monu- 
ments, and  had  taken  their  dimensions  with  the  fullest  detail. 
He  forthwith  sent  a  description  of  this  necropolis  to  the  Archffio- 
logical  Institute  of  Iiome,  together  with  drawings,  plans,  and 
sections  of  the  principal  tomhs  for  puhlication.  In  truth,  he  has 
left  little  to  be  done  b}'  future  visitors  to  Sovana,  so  detailed  and 
accurate  are  his  notices  and  drawings,  and  such  the  zeal  with 
Avhich  he  prosecuted  his  researches  for  the  benefit  of  antiquarian 
science. 

The  discover}'  is  of  the  highest  importance,  for  these  sepulchres, 
though  in  general  character  resembling  those  of  Xorchia,  Castel 
d'Asso,  and  Bieda,  have  novel  and  striking  features  peculiar  to 
the  site.  Mr.  Ainsle}^  j^^stl}'  observes,  that  after  "  having  visited 
nearly  all  the  antiquities  of  this  kind  known  to  exist  in  Etruria, 
I  can  trul}'  sa}'  that  I  have  seen  no  place  which  contains  so  great 
a  variety  of  sculptured  tombs  as  Sovana." - 

Sovana  is  but  two  miles  and  a  half  from  Pitigliano,  and 
appears  to  the  e3'e  still  nearer,  but  in  these  glen-furrowed  plains 
distances  are  deceptive.  You  ascend  from  the  ravine  of  Piti- 
gliano by  an  ancient  rock-sunk  road,  fringed  with  aloes.  On  the 
surface  of  the  plain  above,  j'ou  niaj*  trace  the  road  b}'  ruts  in  the 
tufo,  formed  partlv  perhaps  in  more  recent  times."^  The  road 
commands  a  wide  sweep  of  the  great  Etruscan  plain  to  the  south  ; 
but  on  every  other  hand  the  horizon  is  bounded  by  heights,  here 
clothed  with  wood  or  verdure,  there  towering  into  lofty  peaks, 
for  half  the  year  diademed  Avitli  snow. 

Sovana  stands  on  a  tongue   of  land,  scarcelv  half  a  mile  in 


-  r.uU.  Inst.  1S43,  p.  159.     Gentleman's  m.iy  be    of   intentional    con.stniction,    and 

ilag. ,  Oct.  1S43,  p.  419.  how  far  the  result  of  reiterated  transit,  in 

•*  Similar  traces  of  ancient  roads  in  Greece  any  jiarticular  case,  can  only  be  determined 

are  supposed  to  have  been  formed  puqiosely,  by  careful  exanunation.     The  softer  cha- 

the  ruts  or  furrows  being  channelled  in  tlie  racter  of  the  rock   in  Etruria  renders  it 

rock  to  facilitate  the  passage  of  vehicles,  still   more  diflicult   to  form  a  satisfactory 

on  the  principle  of  tram-roads — forming,  opinion  ;    but  ancient  roads  indicated   by 

in  fact,   a  sort  of  stone  railway.     Mnre's  parallel  ruts,  cut  or  worn  in  the  tufo,  are 

Tour  in  Greece,  II.  p.  251.     How  far  they  of  veiy  common  occurrence. 

K  2 


4  SOVAXA,  [chap.  XXXIV. 

length ;  at  one  end  rises  the  square  tower  of  the  Duomo,  iuul  at 
the  other  the  me(li<\.'val  castle,  -which,  with  its  tall  masses  of 
yellow  ruin,  and  crunihlhig  niachicolated  battlements,  forms  the 
most  prominent  and  picturesque  feature  in  the  sceneiy  of  the  spot. 

It  is  obvious  from  the  strength  of  these  fortifications  that 
Sovana  was  a  place  of  importance  in  the  middle  ages.  This  cit}- 
— for  such  it  is  in  name — "  this  city,  which  governed  itself  by  its 
own  laws,  even  after  the  arrival  of  the  Lombards,  which  for  a 
long  period  was  the  residence  of  bishops  and  of  a  powerful  race 
of  Counts ;  this  city,  which  in  1240  was  able  to  make  head 
against  Frederic  II.,  and  to  sustain  a  siege,  is  now  reduced  to 
such  a  miserable  state,  that  in  1833  its  population  was  not  more 
than  sixty-four  souls  ;  "^  and  is  now  still  further  diminished.  It 
is  the  see  of  a  bishop,  but  for  six  centuries  past  this  dignitary 
has  not  resided  there,  delegating  his  duties  to  a  j^roposto,  or 
provost.  Such  is  the  summer  scourge  of  "  ariarria,''  that  even 
the  wretched  hamlet  to  which  the  city  has  dwmdled  is  well-nigh 
depopulated,  and  most  of  its  houses  are  ruined  and  tenantless. 
It  may  well  be  called,  as  Kepetti  observes,  "  The  city  of 
Jeremiah."  It  is  but  the  skeleton,  though  a  still  living  skeleton, 
of  its  former  greatness.  Pestilence,  year  after  year,  stalks 
through  its  long,  silent  street.'^  I  visited  it  in  the  healthy 
season,  when  its  population  had  not  forsaken  it,  and  on  a  fete- 
day,  when  every  one  was  at  home ;  yet  hardly  a  soul  did  I 
perceive,  and  those  few  seemed  to  have  scarcely  energy  enough 
left  for  wonderment.  The  visit  of  a  stranger,  however,  is  an 
epoch  in  the  annals  of  the  hamlet.  I  learned  from  the  provost 
that  the  monotonous,  death-like  calm  of  Sovana  had  not  been 
disturbed  by  a  single  visitor  since  ]\Ir.  Ainsley  left  it  nearly  a 
3'ear  before. 

Nothing  is  known  of  the  ancient  history  of  Sovana.  Till  now 
it  was  not  supposed  to  have  had  an  Etruscan  origin.  The 
Pioman  colony  of  Suana  is  mentioned  in  the  catalogues  of  Pliny 
and  Ptolemy;*^  and  that  it  occupied  this  site  is  proved  by  the 
preservation  of  the  ancient  name,  wliich  has  remained  almost 
unchanged — being  called  inditierently  Soana   or   Sovana.*"     Tlie 

■•  Repetti,  v.  Soana.  are  only  "  suspecteil "  of,  not  infectdl  by, 

"  It  woiikl  be  interesting  to  trace  tlie  malaria, 
cause  of  its  unhealtliiness.     It  cannot  be  "  Plin.,  III.  S  ;    Ptol.  Geog.  i>.  72,  ed. 

entirely    owing    to    its   situation    in    the  liert. 

plain,  for  it  is  raised  about  960  feet  above  ^  Repetti  always  speaks  of  it  as  Soana  ; 

the  level  of  the  .sea  ;  and  other  sites  on  but  in  the  country  it  is  generally  called 

much  lower  ground,  and  nearer  the  sea,  Sovana — which  is  more  consistent  with  the 


CHAP.    XXXIV.] 


A    CITY    OF    THE    PLAGUE. 


only  Iiistorical  interest  it  possesses  lies  in  its  being  the  birth- 
place of  Hildebrand,  Gregory'  VII.,  the  great  ecclesiastical 
reformer  of  the  eleventh  centur}-,  the  founder  of  the  Papal 
supremac}'  over  all  secular  power.  Of  lionian  remams  I 
observed  only  three  cij>pi  in  the  Piaz/a,  with  inscriptions  of  no 
interest.  Below  the  Duonio,  on  the  descent  to  the  western  gate, 
are  j)ortions    of  the    ancient  wall,   of  tufo  and  cmplccton,  as  at 


^^  .     >-\        MONTE  ROSELLO 


ROUGH    I'LAX    OF    SoVANA    AND    ITS    NECROPOLIS. 


A.     Castle. 

K. 

Bridge. 

B.     Cathedral. 

L. 

]\Iadonna  del  Sebastiano. 

C     Piazza. 

M. 

Ancient  road  cut  through  the  rock 

D.D.Gates. 

X. 

Grotta  Pola. 

E.     Columbarium  in  tlie  cliff. 

P. 

Bridge. 

F.     Tomb  with  ribbed  ceiling. 

Q- 

Tomb  with  Typhon's  head. 

G-.G.  Ancient  roads. 

K. 

House-like  tombs. 

H.     Columbarium. 

s. 

Polyandrium. 

I.      Tomb  called  La  Fontana. 

T. 

Fontana  del  Pischero. 

Sutri  and  Falleri.  The  Etruscan  town  must  have  been  of  ver}' 
small  size,  little  more  than  a  mile  in  circumference.  Yet  the 
multitude  and  character  of  its  sepulchres  seem  to  indicate  con- 
siderable importance,  though  this  test  is  often  fallacious.  Suana 
can  never  have  been  of  much  weight  in  the  Etruscan  State  ;  and 
must  have  been  dependent  on  some  larger  city,  probably  o\\ 
Volsinii. 


Italian  mode  of  corrupting  Latin  names, 
as  exemplified  in  iLintova,  Padova,  Genova 


-and  with  the  vulgar  tendency  to  iaseit  v, 
-Pdvolo  for  Paolo. 


G  SOYANA.  [CHAP.  XXXIV 

Should  any  one  be  tempted  to  follow  me  to  this  desolate  site, 
which,  during  the  winter  months,  ma}-  he  done  with  impmiit}-  if 
not  without  discomfort,  let  him  leave  Sovana  by  the  western  gate. 
As  he  descends  into  the  ravine  he  will  observe  the  opposite  cliffs 
hewn  into  a  long  series  of  architectural  fjicades,  among  which  one 
with  a  recessed  arch  stands  conspicuous.  At  some  distance  he 
might  take  it  for  a  new  stone  building  ;  but  let  him  force  liis  way 
through  the  thick  copse  on  the  slope,  and  he  finds  its  whiteness 
is  but  the  hoariness  of  anticputy.     This  monument  is  called 

La  Foxtaxa, 

from  some  fancied  resemblance  to  a  fountain."^  It  is  hewn  from 
the  tufo  cliff,  and  in  general  size  and  foim  resembles  the  tombs 
of  Xorchia  and  Castel  d'Asso,  but  instead  of  Etruscan  cornices 
has  a  Doric-like  frieze,  surmoimted  by  a  pediment  with  singular 
reliefs ;  and  in  place  of  the  door-moulding  on  the  facade,  it  has 
an  arched  recess,  Avitli  an  inscription  carved  on  the  inner  wall, 
and  a  couple  of  steps  below  it,  which  give  it  some  resemblance  to 
a  modem  way-side  shi-ine.'^  The  general  features  of  the  monu- 
ment, even  -R-ithout  the  open  tomb  beneath,  would  prove  it  to  be 
sepidchral.^ 

The  projecting /a -scirt  bears  much  resemblance  to  a  Doric  frieze,- 
but  the  pediment  is  veiy  un-Hellenic  in  character.  In  the  centre 
is  an  Etruscan  mermaid,  or  marine  deity — 

Prima  hominis  f  acies.  et  pulchro  pecix)re  rirg-o 
Pube  tenus  ;  postrema  iminani  corpore  pLstrix 
Delphinum  caudas  utero  commissa — 

Her  fiice  has  been  destroyed  ;  her  bod}-  is  naked,  but  over  her 
head  float  her  robes  inflated  bv  the  breeze,  and  she  is  stri-sinjj  to 

®  See  the  ■woodcut  on  the  opposite  page.  ^  The  sepulchral  chamber  is  entered  by 

'  The  inscription  is  in  letters  ten  inches       a  passage  opening  in  the  hill-side,  at  an 

high.     It  appears  to  be  an  epitaph,  and  in       unusual  depth  below  the  fa9ade.     It  is  in 

Koman  letters  would  be  no  -way  remarkable.     In    the  excavations 

that  were  made  here  in  1859  it  was  found 
tLat  in  certain  of  the  passages  sunk  in  the 
rock  to  the  doors  of  the  tombs,  some  of  the 
It  is  stated  by  Count  G.  C.  Conestabile       steps  were  moveable,   made  so  to  conceal 

that  in  some  other  tombs  of  Sovana  where       another  passage  leading  to  a  lower  chamber. 

this  arched  recess  occurs  in  the  facade,  it       Conestabile,  loc.  cit. 

was  occupied  by  a  stone  sarcophagus  with  -  It  is  divided  into  metopes,  and  what 

a  recumbent  figure  on  its  lid,  vestiges  of       resemble  trighiihs  in  outline,  but  not  being 

which  still  remain.     Bulletino  degli  Scavi       channelled,  are  not  entitled  to  the  name  ; 

della    Societa    Colombarui,     1859,    p.    8.       there  are  no  yK«a:.     Each  metope  contains 

Yet  it  is  strange  that  no  sarcophagi  were       a  patera. 

found  within  the  tombs. 


XCLI  .   .    lA.   VKLC 
VELUS. 


CHAP,  xxxrv.]      LA    FONTANA— ETEUSCAN    MEEMAID.  7 

confine  tlieni  -with  lier  lunuls.''  The  huge  coils  of  her  fishes'  tails 
roll  away  on  each  side  almost  to  tlie  extremity  of  the  i)e(liment. 
On  either  hand,  fiying  from  her  with  wings  outspread,  is  a  male 
genius  ;  tlie  one  on  her  left  hears  a  shield  on  his  arm,  and  shows 
some  traces  of  a  helmet. 


1/:^  I 


4 


5^/wi«=-— ~ 


EOCK-KEWN    TOMU    CALLED   "  LA    FUXTAXA,"  AT    SOVAXA. 


These  figures,  which  are  in  prominent  relief,  are  by  no  means 
distinct.  They  have  sufi'ered  from  a  huge  beech,  which  has  taken 
rt)ot  on  the  summit  of  the  rocky  mass,  si)ringing  from  above  the 
head  of  the  mermaid,  which  it  has  almost  destroyed,  and  riving 
the  monument  to  its  very  base.  The  antiquar}-  may  complain, 
but  the  artist  must  rejoice  ;  for  the  tree  overshadowing  the  monu- 
ment renders  it  eminently'  picturesque.^ 

^  Mr.  Ainsley  took  hoi- rohes  to  be  wings  ;  seen  covering  tlie  left  arm.     She  holds  no 

and  in  truth  the  reseniTilance  is  not  slight,  instrnnient  iu  her  haml,  as  usual  in  suck 

and  the  analogy  of  similar  figures  on  Etrus-  figures. 

can  urns,  leads  you  to  expect  wings;  Imt  ■*  Jlr.  Ainsley's  descriptions  of  tliis  mo- 

here,  the  folds  of  the  drapery  are  distinctly  numeut  will  be  found  iu  Bull.  Inst.  1S43, 


8  SOYAXA.  [chap,  xxxiv. 

I  agree  with  ]Mr.  Aiusley  in  regarding  tliis  monument  as  of  a 
late  period  in  Etruscan  art.  "  There  is  a  freedom  of  design,  a 
certain  flow  of  outline  in  the  figures,  together  with  a  boldness  of 
execution  in  the  whole  composition,  which  difter  widely  from  the 
primitive  style  of  Etruscan  art."  The  subject  is  one  which  is 
not  to  be  seen  elsewhere  in  Etruria  on  the  facade  of  a  tomb, 
though  frequent  on  the  cinerary  urns  of  Yolterra,  C'hiusi,  and 
Perugia.  These  marine  deities  are  of  either  sex,  and  are  often 
represented  with  wings  outspread,  and  with  a  small  pair  at  their 
temples,  which  are  bound  with  snakes.  Sometimes  they  are 
brandishing  harpoons  or  anchors,  sometimes  oars,  swords,  or  even 
snakes,  like  the  Furies.  They  are  commonly  called  Glaucus  or 
Scylla,  according  to  the  sex ;  but  these  terms  are  merely  conven- 
tional, and  it  is  possible  that  they  may  have  no  relation  to  those 
beings  of  the  Greek  mythology.  IMyst^rious  symbols  of  a  long- 
forgotten  creed,  thus  prominently  displayed,  they  cannot  fail  to 
stir  the  imagination  of  the  beholder. 


In  the  line  of  cliff,  called  Poggio  Prisca,  is  a  long  range  of 
sepulchral  monuments,  in  general  form,  size,  and  character,  like 
those  of  Xorchia  and  Castel  d'  Asso,  but  in  their  details  differing 
from  any  others  yet  discovered  in  Etruria.  For,  besides  the 
Egyptian  character  of  the  outline  and  the  horizontal  mouldings, 
Avhich  these  tombs  have  in  common  with  those  on  the  sites  men- 
tioned, here  Ave  find  cornices  not  receding  but  projecting,  and 
actually  taking  the  concave  form,  with  the  prominent  torus 
beneath,  so  common  on  the  banks  of  the  Xile ;  and  this  not  in 
a  solitary  monument,  but  repeated  again  and  again,  so  as  to 
remove  all  suspicion  that  this  striking  resemblance  to  Egyptian 
architecture  was  the  result  of  accident.  The  Etruscan  character 
is  seen  in  the  moulded  door  on  the  facade,  and  in  the  inscription 
within  it ;  but  the  dentilled  fillet  below  the  torus,  and  the  rock- 
it.  lo7  ;  Anil.  lust.  1843,  pp.  227 — 229  ;  frieze  10  feet,  .ind  tlienre  to  the  apex  of 
Gentleman" .s  Mag.,  Oct.  1843,  p.  418.  For  the  pediment  7  feet.  The  recess  is  8  feet 
his  illustrations,  see  Mon.  Inetl.  Inst.  III.  9  inches  in  height,  and  7  feet  6  inches  in 
tav.  LVI.  What  differences  e.xist  between  width.  There  is  a  buttress  of  rock  on  each 
his  observations  and  mine  (Ann.  Inst.  side  of  tlie  arcli,  now  much  defaced  ;  which 
1843,  p.  234)  are  explained  by  the  seasons  Mr.  Ainsley  suggests  may  have  supported 
in  which  we  respectively  visited  the  spot.  figures  of  lions,  or  other  decorative  sculp- 
The  shade  of  the  summer  foliage  must  tures.  Similar  buttre.s.ses  are  attached  to 
have  greatly  impeded  his  investigation;  a  tomb  at  Castel  d' Asso.  See  Chapter  XVI. 
while  I  found  the  tomb  exposed  to  tlie  full  p.  182.  Steps  anciently  cut  in  the  rock 
glare  of  a  vernal  .sun.  by  the  side  of  the  monument  lead  to  the 

The  dimensions  of  La  Fontana  are  : —       summit  of  the  cliff. 
■\Vidth  at  the  base  17  feet.     Height  to  the 


CHAP.  XXXIV.]         POGGIO    rPvISCA— GEOTTA    TOLA.  9 

liewn  jiedestal  wliicli  often  suniiouiits  the  niouuiiioiit,  sire  Greek 
rather  tlian  Etruscan  features. 

The  ujiper  chamber,  so  common  at  Norchia  and  Castcl  d'  Asso, 
is  unknown  at  Sovana,  but  there  is  some  analog}'  to  it  in  a  recess 
hollowed  in  the  facade  of  a  monument,  and  having  a  bench  at  the 
back ;  either  for  a  sarcophagus,  for  the  clppus,  or  for  the  accom- 
modation of  mourning  friends.  It  is  a  feature  not  unconnnon  on 
this  site ;  it  is  seen,  in  fact,  in  the  Fontana.'' 

These  facades  are  separated  as  usual  b}'  flights  of  steps,  hewn 
in  the  rock,  and  leading  from  the  base  of  the  cliff  to  the  level  of 
the  plain. ^  In  front  of  each  monument  is  a  long  pit,  the  deeji 
narrow  passage  to  tiie  tomb,  -which  lies  at  an  unusual  depth,  and 
lias  a  moulded  door  j)recisely  like  that  on  the  facade.  Even 
where  the  roofs  of  these  passages  have  not  fallen  in,  there  is  a 
large  oblong  pit  at  the  base  of  the  monument,  the  mouth  of  a 
vertical  shaft,  like  those  at  Fallori  and  Civita  Castellana.  The 
sepulchres  are  in  general  spacious,  surrounded  by  benches  of  rock, 
but  with  no  internal  decoration,  so  far  as  I  could  perceive. 

Following  the  range  of  cliffs  northward,  I  came  upon  another 
group  of  tombs  of  similar  chfiracter,  and  many  with  inscrij^tions 
more  or  less  legible.    This  part  of  the  necropolis  is  called  Sopraripa. 

It  were  vain  to  attempt  a  visit  to  these  tombs  unarmed  with  a 
hatchet,  so  dense  are  the  tangled  thickets ;  and  all  care  must  be  had 
in  crossing  the  yawning  joits  with  which  the  slopes  are  furrowed ; 
for  the  ground  is  kept  moist  and  slippery  by  the  overhanging 
foliage,  and  a  false  step  on  the  brink  would,  in  every  sense,  be  a 
.step  into  the  grave.  Mr.  Ainsle}'  was  obliged  to  get  tlie  peasants 
to  pioneer  him  a  way  from  one  monument  to  another  with  their 
wood-bills,  and  to  clear  the  foliage  from  the  jflicades  ;  and  I  also 
reaped  unequivocal  benefit  from  their  labours. 

From  the  Sopraripa  I  perceived  the  cliffs  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  wide  ravine  to  be  full  of  tombs,  and  crossing  the  stream  by 
a  bridge  of  some  antiquity-,  I  reached  the 

Gkotta  Poi-a, 

one  of  the  most  singulnr  monviments  in  tliis  necropolis,  and  the 
onh'one  of  the  sepulchres  of  Etruria  wliicli  bears  any  resemblance 

•'  In  the  Sopraripa  is  a  nionnniciit  with  and  it  is  i)roliable  that  most  of  tlicse  arched 

a  recessed  arch,   as  in  the   Fontaiia,    l>ut  recesses  lield  cippi,  portable  in  some  cases, 

without  inscription  or  sculptured  pediment ;  fixtures  in  others. 

and  in  tlie  cliii's  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  *"  An  instance  is  shown  in  the  woodcut 

glen,  a  similar  arch  contains  a  sepulchral  on  page  7. 
column  or  cijjpax,  hewn  out  of  the  rock  ; 


10  SOVAXA.  [chap.  XXXIV. 

to  the  celebrated  temple-tombs  of  XorL-liia.  Ileie  is  Mr.  Ainsley's 
descriptiou  of  it : — 

"  It  has  the  form  of  the  portico  of  a  temple,  cut  out  of  the  solid 
tufa.  One  column  only  remains,  supporting  a  corner  of  the 
pediment,  and  behind  it  is  a  stpiare  pilastei',  attached  to  the 
suriace  of  the  rock,  representing  the  body  of  the  temple.  Both 
column  and  pilaster  are  tinted,  and  adorned  with  corresponding 
capitals,  which  seem  to  have  been  very  similar  to  one  that  I  have 
seen  in  Signor  Campanari's  museum  at  Toscanella,  having  foUage 
running  round  its  base,  and  springing  boldly  up  to  the  comers, 
somewhat  in  the  manner  of  the  Corinthian,  but  with  large  human 
heads  placed  in  the  middle  of  each  face  of  the  cai)ital,  between 
the  fohage.^  The  eli'ects  of  time  are  too  great  to  allow  one  to 
judge  of  the  character  of  these  heads.  It  is  apparent  that  the 
column,  tha  pilaster,  and  the  face  of  the  rock  have  been  covered 
Avith  stucco  and  coloured  ;  and  this  is  most  manifest  in  the  latter, 
where  a  hvoad  fascia  of  the  usual  deep  red  colour  has  run  along 
the  bottom.  The  portico  seems  to  have  consisted  of  four  columns, 
but  not  equall}'  distant  from  one  another,  being  coujiled  at  the 
two  ends,  so  as  to  leave  a  wider  space  between  the  two  pairs  than 
between  each  column  and  its  fellow.  The  pediment  is  too  much 
injured  to  allow  one  to  judge  if  there  has  been  sculpture  in  it ; 
but  the  soffit  of  that  part  Avhich  remams  is  decorated  with  medal- 
lions. The  whole  monument  is  elevated  on  a  base,  without  any 
traces  of  steps,  and  must  have  had  an  imj)osmg  ai^pearance  when 
perfect ;  whilst  in  its  ruin,  decorated  as  it  is  with  the  trees  which 
grow  out  of  the  crevices,  and  have  partly  occasioned  its  destruc- 
tion, it  presents  one  of  the  most  picturesque  objects  which  my 
portfolio  contains."^ 

The  style  of  this  monument  marks  it  as  no  very  early  date,  and 
it  may  be   of  the   time  of  Roman   domination  in   Ktruria.     No 

7  See    the    woodcut    at    page    4S1    of  Men.  Ined.  Inst.  II.  tav.  XX.     No  volutes 

Volume  I.  are  now  remaining  in  these  cajiitals,  and 

*  Gentleman's  ilag. ,  Oct.  1843,  p.  418.  it  can  only  be  from  analogy  that  ilr.  Ainsley 

I  can  add  little  to  this  accurate   descrip-  deems  them  to  have  existed.    ^Ir.  Ainsley's 

tion  ;  yet  I  am  by  no  means  certain  that  accurate  plans  and  sections  of  this  monu- 

the  decorations  of  the  column  and  pilaster  ment  will  be  found  in  the  Mon.  Ined.  Inst, 

represent    human  heads.     The  surface  of  III.  tiiv.  LV.,  and  a  furtlier  description  in 

the  tufo,  out  of  which   the   monument  is  Ann.  Inst.  1843,  yix  224 — 7. 

hewn,  is  so  decayed,  that  it  is  difficult  to  The  height  of  the  column  and  i)ilaster 

determine  the  point,  but  to  my  eye  there  is  15  feet  (i  inches  ;  diameter  of  both  alx)ut 

was  some  resemblance  to  large  jjine-cones,  3  feet.     Height  of  the  podium,  or  base, 

a  common  sepulchral  emblem  among  the  from   7  to   8  feet.     The  portico  is  7  feet 

Etruscans  ;  yet  analog}'  would  rather  favour  deep,  and  about  26  feet  wide. 
the  heads.     See  Lull.  Inst.  1830,  p.  136. 


CHAP.  XXXIV.]      TOMBS    IX    THE    FOEM    OF    HOUSES.  11 

tomb  is  seen  Lelow  it,  because  tlie  pnssafje  to  it  is  not  cleared 
out ;  3-ettbevo  can  be  no  doubt  of  its  sepulcbral  cbaracter.  Tliis 
l^ortico  seems  ))ut  a  small  ixnlion  of  a  nnudi  mightier  monument ; 
in  trntb  it  is  liinblv  i)robable,  from  tlie  traces  of  art  on  tlie  ad- 
joining rocks,  tbat  tliere  has  been  on  tliis  sjx^t,  as  ]\Ir.  Ainsley 
observes,  "  an  union  of  objects  of  architectural  grandeur,  not  to 
be  seen  in  any  other  part  of  Etruria.'"-^ 

Tlie  height   in  -which  the  Grotta  Pola  lies  is  called  Costa  del 
Felceto,     In  the    line  of  cliffs  more  to  the  east,  below  the  height 
called  Poggio  Stanziale,  are  many 
tombs  in    curious    variety.      Some  ^^r- — "^-^ 

are  purely  Egyptian  in  outline  and   ^ IZ_ 

mouldings,  as  shown  in  the  annexed      x  . 

woodcut.     Some  are  siu'mounted  by 

two    long    masses    of    rock,    as    a       ,     ,  .^, 

pedestal  for  a  figure  or  cipjins,  but      '     L/   ))  ll   Vi 

in  most  it  is  of  more  artificial  form. 

In  some  of  the  facades  are  two  or 

three    long    body-niches,    recessed 

one  above  the  other ;   which  must 

be  of  subsequent  formation  to  the 

monuments,  and  may  be    even    of 

Christian  date. 


The  most  remarki'.ble  sepulchres        facade  ok  a  to-mb  at  sovana. 
in  this  part  of  the  necroi)olis  are 

■what  may  be  termed  house-tombs,  as  they  are  detached  masses  of 
rock  hewn  into  that  form.  They  have  a  sort  of  portico  in  antls, 
in  one  instance  flanked  b}'  pilasters  with  simjde  capitals,  and  sur- 
mounted by  i)ediments,  with  a  cornice  below,  and  the  beam-end 
of  the  roof  above,  in  obvious  imitation  of  woodwork.  The 
house-character  is  seen  also  more  clearly  in  the  roof,  which  in 
one  instance  is  roinided,  and  ribbed  with  i)arallel  ridges,  aj)- 
parently  in  rejiresentation  of  a  hut  arched  over  with  hoops,  and 
covered  with  skins  ;^  indeed,  there  is  much  iirimitive  character  in 
these  tombs,  and  the}'  recall  the  singular  hut-urns  of  the  Alban 
Mount.  In  this  instance,  there  is  a  moulded  door  within  the 
portico,  indicating  the  entrance  to  tlie  abode. 

'■'  There  i.s  a  wide  artificial  i>assage  Loliinil  liavc  given  the  mominient,  in  its  original 
the  monument,  ,a.s  sliown  in  i\Ir.  Ainsley'.s  .state,  a  very  close  analogy  to  the  temple- 
plan.     I  have  little  doubt  that  there  ha.s  toml)S  of  Norchia. 

been  a  second  portico  adjoining,  for  I  re-  '  There  are  also  traces  of  antcftxcr  at  the 

marked  traces  of  four  columns,  somewhat  extremities  of  the.se  ridges,  just  as  on  many 

in  advance  of  the  Grotta  Pola.      This  mu.-^t  Etruscan  urns  and  sarcophagi. 


12  SOY  AX  A.  [CHAP.  XXXIV. 

One  of  these  house-tombs  has  its  pediment  dtcoiated  ^vith  a 
colossal  head,  in  high  relief,  of  veiy  bold  and  imposing  cdiaracter. 
It  represents  the  Etruscan  Typhon,  or  Principle  of  Destruction, 
and  has  long  serpent-locks,  one  of  his  usual  attributes.-  The 
soffit  of  the  portico  is  cofiered  with  a  diamond  pattern. 

As  tyi"»es  of  Etruscan  domestic  architecture,  these  tombs  of 
Sovana  have  a  peculiar  interest.  That  most  of  the  other 
monuments  on  this  and  kindred  sites,  which  have  moulded  doors 
in  their  focades,  represent  dwellings  there  can  be  little  doubt ; 
but  these  few  in  question  are  too  pali)ably  imitations  to  admit 
of  a  moment's  scepticism.  I  know  no  other  instances  of  gabled 
tombs  in  Etruria,  save  one  at  Bieda,  which  does  not  bear  so 
close  an  analogy  to  a  house,  except  in  having  the  sepulchral 
chamber  within  the  bodv  of  the  monument,  instead  of  beneath  it, 
as  in  those  just  described.  No  Etruscan  necropolis  more  truly 
merits  that  name,  or  has  the  character  of  a  *'  city  of  the  dead  " 
more  stronglv  expressed  in  its  monuments,  than  this  of  Sovana. 

In  the  cliff  beneath  the  town  opposite  the  I'ontana  is  a 
singular  tomb  with  a  vaulted  roof,  with  something  like  a  large 
Maltese  cross  in  relief.  The  inner  wall  is  recessed  like  the  apse 
of  a  church,  and  there  are  niches  around  the  chamber. 

The  tombs  described  are  the  most  remarkable  among  the 
countless  numbers  around  Sovana.  The  glens  on  the  east  of  the 
town  are  also  full  of  sepulchres,  but  of  more  ordinary  character 
— simple  chambers  surrounded  by  rock-hewn  benches,  without 
decoration,  inside  or  out.  It  might  be  inferred  that  there  Avas 
some  separation  of  classes  in  this  necropolis — that  in  these  glens 
lay  the  commune  vulr/as,  while  at  the  west-end  were  interred  the 
l)atrician  and  sacerdotal  dead  of  Sovana. 

I  agree  with  Mr.  Ainsley  in  considering  the  monuments  in  this 
necropolis  to  be  generally  less  archaic  in  character  than  those  of 
Castel  d'Asso  and  Xorchia,  saving  the  temple-tombs  on  the  latter 
site,  though  there  is  by  no  means  an  appearance  of  uniform 
antiquity.  At  the  same  time  there  is  here  a  nnich  larger  number 
of  cliff-hewn  sepulchres  than  on  any  other  Etruscan  site ;  and  a 
far  greater  varietv  of  architectural  decoration.  Nowhere  are  the 
mouldings  so  singular  and  so  varied  ;  for  they  show  the  charac- 
teristics   of  distant    countries,    and    of    different    ages.     Egyj)t, 

-  Jlr.  Ainslej-  took  these  snake-locks  for  filled  with  foliage  in  relief,  whose  flowing 

"flowing  hair."'     I  think  he  is  mistaken.  and  elegant  character  marks  the  monument 

Nor  could  I  perceive  any  signs  of  wings  on  as  of  a  late  epoch.     He  h:is  given  an  eleva- 

the    brows,   which  he  thought   he  distin-  tion  and  section  of  this  tomb  in  ilon.  Ined. 

guished.     The  angles  of  the  <^/»2)rt>n(«i  are  Inst.  III.  tav.  LVII.  1,  2. 


CHAP.  XXXIV.]   ABUNDANCE  AND  VArJETY  OF  SErULCHRES.     13 

Greece,  Ktriuia,  wud  Pvonie,  have  all  their  stamp  here  expressed." 
In  the  general  character  of  its  sepulchres  there  is  the  same 
variet}' ;  for  to  its  own  peculiar  features  Sovana  unites  the 
characteristics  of  other  Etruscan  cemeteries — Norchia,  Bieda, 
Castel  d'Asso,  Falleri,  Sutri,  Cervetri.  Yet  I  did  not  perceive 
one  tumulus  like  those  of  Cervetri,  Tarquinii,  and  A'ulci.  No- 
where are  sepulchral  niches  in  greater  abundance  and  variety. 
There  arc  niches  for  urns,  and  niches  for  bodies — the  large 
conical  niches,  surmounted  by  small  ones,  so  common  at  Civita 
Castellana — shelf-niches  in  double  or  triple  tiers — port-hole 
niches,  and  loop-hole  niches — and  of  columbaria  there  are  as 
many  as  on  any  other  site,  except  Sorano.  Nowhere,  moreover, 
are  inscriptions  on  the  exterior  of  the  monuments  so  abundant  ; 
and  of  the  Poggio  Prisca  and  Sopraripa  it  may  almost  be  said — 

nullum  est  sine  nomine  saxum. 

Nearly  every  rock  here  speaks  Etruscan.* 

The  neighbourhood  of  Sovana  abounds  in  ancient  roads  cut 
through  the  tufo.  The  most  remarkable  of  these  are  to  the  west, 
behind  the  jNIadonna  del  Sebastiano,  where  two  ways  are  cut 
through  the  rock  up  to  the  level  of  the  plain.  They  are  not 
more  than  eight  or  ten  feet  wide,  though  seventy  or  eighty  feet 
deep,  and  the  thin  strip  of  sky  overhead  is  almost  shut  out  by 
overshadowing  trees.  A  few  tombs  and  water-channels  indicate 
the  Etruscan  origin  of  these  clefts.  The  profound  perpetual 
gloom  of  these  mediterranean  roads  has  invested  them  with  a 
superstitious  awe,  and  no  Sovanese  ventures  to  enter  the  Cave  di 
San  Sebastiano  without  signing  the  cross  and  committing  himself 
to  the  care  of  the  A^irgin  and  his  favourite  saint.  The  Virgin  is 
within  hearing,  for  her  shrine  stands  at  the  foot  of  the  slojie ;  and 
she  is  reminded  of  her  tutelary  duties  by  a  pra^-er  inscribed  on 
the  portico.     "  Santa  Maria  !  protecjcjcte  Sovana,  a  te  devota  !  " 

Sovana  presents  a  new  field  to  the  excavator.  The  tombs  in  the 
cliffs  have  been  rifled  ages  since ;  but  the  plain  above  must  also 
be  full  of  sepulchres,  to  which  the  spade  and  mattock  are  the  onlv 
keys.  The  richness  of  architectural  decoration  in  this  necropolis 
seems  to  augur  a  corresponding  wealth  of  sepulchral  furniture. 

This  suggestion  of  mine  Avas  acted  on  by  the  Societa  Colom- 
baria  of  Florence,  who,  in  the  spring  of  1859,  commenced  excava- 
tions in   this  necropolis.     In   twenty  days  they  opened   about 

•'  See  the  Appendix,  Note  I.  given    in    tbe   Appendix  to  this  Chapter, 

■•  The  inscriptions  that  are  legible  are       Note  II. 


14  SOYAXA.  [chap,  xxxrv. 

fifty  tombs,  yet  with  very  little  success,  for  the  sepulchres  had  all 
been  rifled  in  former  times.  Even  when  the  door  was  intact,  it 
was  found  that  the  tomb  had  been  entered  either  throuuh  the 
roof,  or  the  side-wall,  and  the  soil  washing  in  tlu'ough  the 
apertiu'e  had  choked  the  chamber,  so  as  greatly  to  increase  the 
labour  of  excavation.  The  tombs  were  generally  of  a  single 
chamber,  surrounded  by  rock-hewn  benches,  on  whicli  the  dead 
were  laid.  It  was  evident  that  the  Etruscans  of  Sovana  did  not 
usually  burn  their  dead,  for  not  a  single  ash-chest,  either  of  stone 
or  terra-cotta,  such  as  abound  at  Chiusi,  Perugia,  and  Volterra, 
was  here  brought  to  light ;  not  even  a  tile  to  cover  a  niche  for  a 
cinerary  urn.  Nor  were  sarcophagi  of  stone  discovered  in  these 
tombs,  yet  the  rock  benches  bore  abundant  proof  that  the  dead 
were  interred,  for  on  every  one  a  number  of  nails  lay  in  regular 
order  round  the  edge,  marking  the  place  of  the  wooden  coffin, 
whose  dust  lay  mingled  with  that  of  its  occupant,''  Xo  inscriii- 
tions  were  found  on  the  walls  of  the  tombs,  nor  on  the  bronzes 
and  pottery  thev  contained. 

In  the  spring  of  1860  the  Society  ojiened  one  hundred  and 
four  tombs  in  thirty  days,  3'et  with  little  better  success.  Not 
yet  willing  to  despair  they  made  a  further  attempt  in  the  follow- 
ing year,  but  from  the  very  inadeipiate  result  the}"  were  comiielled 
to  relinquish  their  labours. 

On  one  tomb  on  Poggio  Grezzano  they  found  traces  of  rude 
paintings  on  the  walls  and  ceiling.  The  jjortable  produce  of 
their  excavations  was  confined  to  ordinary  pottery,  black  and 
red,  some  vases  with  black  figures  on  a  red  ground,  a  few  mirrors, 
sometimes  gilt,  with  other  objects  in  bronze  rarely  entire,  articles 
in  iron,  ivory,  glass,  beads  of  amber,  and  an  earring  of  gold. 
The  most  archaic  objects  were  two  sitting  female  figures  of  soft 
stone,  like  those  found  at  Chiusi,  hollowed  to  contain  the  ashes  of 
the  deceased,  and  Avith  movable  limbs.^ 

Such  is  the  necropolis  of  Sovana,  and  if  it  ofiers  feM'  treasures  to 
the  excavator,  it  ofiers  much  to  the  antiquarv.  Eet  no  one  who 
feels  interest  in  the  past,  enter  this  district  of  Etruria  without 
paying  it  a  visit.  It  is  better  worth  a  pilgrimage  than  one  half  of 
known  Etruscan  sites.  In  point  t)f  sepulchres,  what  is  there  at 
Ealleri — what  at   Castel    d'Asso — what   at    Toscanella — what  at 


*  Similar  traces  of  wooden  coffins  have  in  Greek  tombs  which   I   have  opened  in 

been  found  at  Corneto  and  in  other  Etruscan  Sicily  and  in  the  Cyrenaica. 
cemeteries,  as  well  as  in  those  of  tlie  Greek  '•  Dullettiui    degli    Scavi    dolla   Societ;i 

colonies  in  Italy.     I  have  found  them  also  Colombaria,  1859 — 01. 


CHAP.    XXXIV.] 


ArvCHITECTUE AL   MOULDING S. 


15 


Bieda — to  rival  it  in  interest?  In  exterior  attraetions,  its  toniLs 
■will  bear  comparison  with  tliose  of  any  otlier  necropolis  in 
Southern  l^truria;  even  Xorchia  cannot  surpass  it.  Kvcrythin{4", 
however,  be  it  remembered,  yields  in  interest  to  the  "  shadow- 
peo])led  caves  "  of  Corneto,  Chiusi,  and  Orvieto. 

Sovana  may  be  reached  from  three  sides;  from  the  east, 
leaving"  the  high-road  to  Siena  at  Acquapendcnte,  or  San 
Jjoren/o  ;  from  the  west  b}'  the  road  leading  from  Orbetello 
through  Manciano ;  and  from  the  south,  from  IMontalto  or 
Toscanella,  through  Farnese,  or  Tschia. ;  and  it  sliould  always  be 
borne  in  mind  that  Pitigliano,  not  Sovana,  is  the  point  to  be 
aimed  at,  as  the  latter  is  utterl}^  destitute  of  accommodation,  and 
at  the  former  "the  ])aby  "  welcomes  the  traveller  with  open  arms. 


APPENDIX    TO    CHAPTER    XXXIY. 

NoTK  I. — ^rnuMuxns  of  Tomus  at  Sovana.     See  p.  1?,. 


Fi-  L  Fh.  2. 


Fi-.  3. 


Fi-.  4. 


|i  I 


Fi-  r,. 


J 


i'l 


!    !i 


Fi?.  6. 


These  mouldings  are  tlioso  of  the  facades  of  tombs  at  Sovana,  seen  in 
profile,  A^irying  from  12  to  20  or  25  feet  in  heiglit.  The  upper  part  recessed 
in  figs.  5  and  G,  is  the  pedestal  of  the  cijipus  or  statue  which  surmounted  the 
tomb  ;  it  is  shown  in  the  woodcut  at  page  513.  The  lower  member  of  the 
cornices  in  figs.  1,  3,  5,  G,  is  dcntilled.  Tlirse  mouldings  are  unlike  those  on 
any  other  Etruscan  site  ;  and  probably  have  their  coimtcrparts  in  no  other 
land  ;  though  certain  of  them  have  a  strong  Egyptian  character.  The  most 
singular  is  that  of  lig.  4  ;  and  next,  perhaps,  fig.  2.     But  further  comment 


16  SOYAXA.  ■      [chap,  xxxiv. 

from  an  unprofessional  man  is  uncalled  for.  I  pve  these  mouldings  rather 
in  the  hope  of  exciting  cm-iosity  in  the  unstudied  subject  of  Etruscan  archi- 
tecture, than  with  any  expectation  of  satisfyuig  it. 

XuTK  II. — Etrus'AX  iNscniPTioxs.     Sec  p.  13. 

The  inscriptions  at  Sovana,  though  unusually  numerous,  are  in  many  cases 
quite  illegible,  owing  to  the  decay  of  the  surface  of  the  monument  on  wliicli 
they  are  carved.  The  tufo  here  is  of  a  deep  red  hue,  which  indurates  better 
perhaps  than  the  lighter  sorts,  but  it  is  filled  with  large  lumps  of  carbon, 
which,  decaying  sooner  than  the  earthy  matter  by  exposure  to  the  weather, 
leaves  holes  in  the  surface  of  the  rock.  There  are  other  diiheulties  in  the 
way  of  making  correct  transcripts  of  the  inscriptions  on  Etruscan  sepulchres. 
Unless  the  sun  fall  on  the  facade,  it  is  often  impossible  to  read  from  below, 
and  the  inscription  must  he  felt — in  all  cases  the  surest  means  of  arriving  at 
accuracy  ;  for  the  finger  can  distinguish  the  indentation  formed  by  the  chisel 
from  that  effected  by  accidental  causL'S,  and  thus  will  often  correct  the  eye. 
But  to  reach  with  the  hand  letters  which  are  generally  at  the  upper  part  of 
the  fa9ade  of  a  smooth-faced  monument  is  not  always  an  easy  matter.  Often 
have  I  reclined  on  the  top  of  a  tomb,  with  my  body  hanging  half  over  its 
face,  clinging  for  support  to  some  projection  of  the  rock,  or  some  friendly 
bough,  while  I  endeavoured,  too  frei[nently  in  vain,  to  feel  my  way  through 
an  inscription  or  bas-relief  ;  and  often  have  I  been  forced  to  assume  a  more 
perilous  position,  standing  on  tip-toe,  spread-eagled  against  the  front  of  the 
monument,  with  nothing  to  save  me  from  the  yawning  pit  at  my  feet,  some 
tliirty  or  forty  feet  deep,  but  the  ledge  of  the  rock  on  which  I  stood,  only 
two  or  three  inches  wide,  and  ever  slippery  with  moisture,  and  the  grasp  of 
one  hand  on  the  angle  of  the  facade,  or  in  some  shallow  hole  in  the  smooth- 
hewn  tufo.     Yet  thus  have  I  hung  many  a  while, 

'•  Spelling  out  scrolls  of  dread  antiquity." 

The  inscriptions  Instead  of  being,  as  at  Castel  d'Asso,  on  the  principal 
fascia  of  the  cornice,  at  Sovana  are  invariably  within  the  moulded  doorway, 
which  is  always  immediately  under  the  cornice,  as  shown  at  page  7. 

The  inscription  within  the  arch  of  La  Fontana  has  already  been  given  at 
page  6,  and  in  its  Etruscan  form  is  seen  in  the  illustration  of  that  monu- 
ment at  page  7. 

On  a  tomb,  in  the  same  line  of  cliffs,  I  read  "  THrxsEHVRixi:,"  which  is  but 
a  fragment. 

On  the  next  tomb  is — 

Or,  in  Roman  letters,  '■  Thestia  :  Yelthuuxa  .  .  .  necxa."  l 

The  first  letter  in  the  lower  line  is  doubtful ;  the  former  part  of  it  may  be- 

a  natural  indentation  in  the  rock,  and  the  rest  may  have  been  an  L.     The 

'  Count  G.   C.  C'onestabile   reads   this,       Bull.  Societtl  Colombaria,  1859,  p.  10. 
"tqestia  velthurnas  nes.va  (or  pesxa)." 


CHAP.  XXXIV.]     ETRUSCAX   INSCEIPTIOXS    AT    SOVAXA. 


r 


inscription  is  tlie  opitai)!!  of  <i  female,  Tliestia.    Her  gentilitial  name  Velthurna 
is  equivalent  to  Voltnrna,  or  Voltnnnia,  the  great  godde.ss  of  the  Etruscans. 
Lecna  is  the  Etruscan  form  of  Lieinia. 
On  another  tomb,  liartl  hv,  is  — 

X 

iopiJiovMc^)a 

or  "  EcASUTHll.ATiri  Al.i  ii.xiA,"'  which  I  would  divide  thus,  "  Eca  Suthi 
Lathial  (for  Larthial)  Cilnia."  The  latter  word  is  the  great  Etruscan  gens,  so 
celebrated  in  the  annals  of  Arretium,  and  to  which  il;ecenas  belonged  ; 
though  it  is  not  generallj'-  so  written  in  Etruscan,  but  is  metamorphosed  into 
Cvelne,  Cvenle,  or  Cvenles — 


AA54V\^:l) 


See  Chapter  XLII.  The  strange  star  above  tliis  inscrijition  has  been  con- 
jectured to  be  a  numeral. 

In  the  Sopraripa  is  a  tomb  with  "  Sa  Eantiia,"  wkicli  is  probably  but  a 
fragment.     Eantha  or  Ramtha  is  an  Etruscan  female  name. 

Of  one  inscription  I  could  only  trace  the  letters  .  .  "  tiira  "^  .  .  and  of 
another  of  two  lines,  only  "  laktha  "  was  distinguishable. 

In  the  Poggio  Stanziale,  near  the  house-tombs  I  read  this  fragment, 
"  TiUAS  .  r  .  .  "  On  an  adjoining  monument  is  the  simple  word  "  cal," 
which  formed  the  entire  inscription. 

In  the  same  line  of  cliff  is  this  epigrai^h — "  cktc  evkl  .  nes."  The  letters, 
however,  are  by  no  means  distinct.  If,  as  Mr.  Ainsley  reads  it,  there  be  no 
stop  before  the  last  syllable,  we  have  cevelxes,  which  betrays  a  strong 
affinity  to  the  Cvelnes  or  Cvenles,  mentioned  above,  and  strengthens  the 
probability  of  the  great  Cilnian  gens  having  been  located  at  Suana,  as  well  as 
at  Arretium. 


-  According  to  Concstabile  tbis  should  be 
"PHRAC."  He  gives  an  inscription  on  a 
tomb  in  the  Sopraripa  which  escaped  my 
observation — 

"eca   suthi    LARTUAL    RUilPC  (or    PUJIPC) 
CILISAL," 


and  another  ou  the  Felceto,  near  the  Grotta 
Tola— 

"aVLE    PETRUS    CELUS," 

(op.  cit.  pp.  17,  18). 


ML'/resi- 


YOLSIXII    AND    UOLSENA. 


CHAPTER   XXXV 


BOLSEXA—  VOLS  FN  IT. 

positis  nemorosa  inter  juga  Volsiniis. — Juvenal. 

Vedeva  Troja  in  cenere  e  'n  cavernc  : 

0  Ilion,  come  te  basso  e  vile 
Mostrava  '1  segno  die  li  si  discerne  ! — Dante. 

From  Pitigliaiio  and  its  interesting  neiglibouihood  I  proceeded 
to  Bolsena,  b.y  way  of  Ornano,  a  wretched  village  seven  or  eight 
miles  from  Sorano. 

Hence  a  road  runs  to  Acquapendente,  on  the  highway  from 
Florence  to  Eome.  This  has  been  erroneously  supposed  to  be 
the  Acula  of  Ptolemy,  and  the  colony  of  the  Aqnenses  mentioned 
by  Pliny^ — an  opinion  founded  merely  on  the  similarity  of  its 


1  Ptolem.  Geog.  p.  72,  cd.  Bert.  ;  riin. 
N.  H.  III.  8 — Aquenses,  cognomine  Tau- 
i-ini.  Dempster  (de  Etruria  Regali,  II. 
]).  342)  held  this  opinion.  But  Cluvcr 
(Ital.  Ant.  ir.  p.  570)  sliow.s  that  the  Acula 


of  Ptnleniy  wa.s  no  other  tlian  the  Ad  Aqui- 
leia  of  the  Pcutingerian  Table,  the  first 
stage  from  Florentia  on  the  road  to  Clu- 
sium.  And  tlie  Aqu:e  Tauri  of  Pliny  wei'e 
in  the  mountains,  three  miles  from  Cen- 


CHAP.  XXXV.]      CnAEMS    OF    A    SOUTHERN    WIXTEE.  19 

name,  wliicli  is  evidentl}'  derived  from  the  pln'sical  peculiarities 
of  the  site.  Acquapendente  appears  to  be  wholl,y  of  the  middle 
ages — no  traces  of  the  Romans,  still  less  of  the  Etruscans,  could 
I  jK'rceive  on  this  spot. 

At  Ornano  I  chose  the  more  direct  route  to  Bolsena,  -which  I 
had  soon  cause  to  repent,  for  the  lanes  through  ^vhich  it  lay  ^vere 
beds  of  stiff  clay,  saturated  with  the  recent  rains,  so  that  the 
heasts  sank  knee-deep  at  ever}-  step.     Thus — 

*'  I  long  in  miry  ways  was  foiled 
And  sore  discomfited,  from  slough  to  slough 
Plunging,  and  half  despairing  to  escape," — 

till  I  found  tcrni-firma  again  at  Le  Grotte  di  San  Lorenzo.  This 
is  evidently  an  Etruscan  site  ;  the  surrounding  ravines  contain 
sepulchral  caves,  though  hardl}-  in  such  numhers  as  to  entitle  the 
village  to  the  name,  par  excellence,  of  Le  Grotte.  The  red  wine 
to  which  it  gives  its  name  is  known  at  Rome  as  among  the  best 
produced  within  the  limits  of  the  old  Papal  State." 

A  couple  of  miles  further  carried  me  to  San  Lorenzo  Xuovo, 
on  the  highway  from  Elorence  to  Rome,  where  "the  great  Vol- 
sinian  mere  "  bursts  upon  the  view.  The  road  thence  to  Bolsena 
is  well  known,  but  I  may  mention  that  the  picturesque  and  de- 
serted village  of  San  Lorenzo  A'ecchio,  about  a  mile  distant — 
un  mhjUo  (jrai^so,  "a  fat  mile,"  as  the  natives  say — occupies 
an  Etruscan  site,  for  the  cliffs  beneath  the  walls  abound  in 
sepulchres.^ 

It  was  a  glorious  day  when  I  approached  Bolsena.  The  sky 
was  without  a  cloud — the  lake,  its  islets,  and  ever}^  object  on  its 
shores,  were  in  a  summer  blaze  of  light  and  warmth — the  olive- 
groves  were  full  of  half-clad  labourers,  gathering  the  unctuous 
harvest — myriads  of  water-fowl  darkened  the  sail-less  Avatei-s — 
my  eye  roved  round  the  wide  amphitheatre  which  forms  the 
ancient  crater,  and  on  every  hand  beheld  the  hills  from  base  to 
summit  dark  with  variejiated  foliage.  How  then  discredit  the 
evidence  of  ni}'  eyes — of  every  sense,  and  admit  it  to  be  the  depth 
of  winter,  ere  vegetation  had  put  forth  a  single  bud  or  blosscjm  ? 
Yet  so  it  was, — but  it  was  the  winter  of  Southern  climes. 

tnmcellse,  or  Civita  Veccliia,  as  saj-s  Eu-  8,  5. 

tilius(I.  2-i!>).  ^  This    cannot    have   been   anciently   a 

-  If  the  Lago  MeKzano,  which  is  only  ?ix  town.     Its  circumscribed  area,  not  larger 

or  seven  miles  distant,  be  the  Lacus  Sta-  than  that  of  a  small  castle,  rather  indicates 

toniensis,  this  may  be  the  very  wine  famed  it   as   one   of   the   stronj,'hol(ls — aisttUu — 

of  old  as  the  Statoniau.     Plin.  N.  H.  XIV.  which  Volsinii  possessed.     Liv.  IX.  41. 

f;  2 


20 


BOLSEXA. 


[CHA?.   XXXV. 


Bolsena  is  the  representative  of  the  ancient  Volsinii,^  one  of 
the  most  ancient,^  most  "wealthy,  and  most  powerful  cities  of 
Etruria,^  and  Avithoiit  doubt  one  of  the  Twelve  of  the  Confedera- 
tion." 

The  first  mention  we  find  of  A'olsinii  in  ancient  writers  is  in 
the  year  of  Eome  362  (b.c.  392),  shortly  after  the  fall  of  A'eii. 
when,  in  conjmiction  with  Salpinum,  a  neighbouring  town,  it 
took  the  occasion  of  a  famine  and  pestilence  that  had  desolated 
the  Eoman  territor}',  to  make  hostile  incursions.  But  these  were 
soon  checked ;  the  Volsinienses  were  beaten,  Liv}-  says,  with 
great  ease,  and  8,000  men  laid  down  their  arms,  and  were  glad  to 
purchase  a  truce  of  twenty  3'ears  on  humiliating  terms.^ 

Yolsinii,  with  the  rest  of  the  Etruscan  States,  took  jiart  in  the 
Avar  which  broke  out  in  the  vear  443  (b.c.  311),  commencing  with 


■*  Yolsinii  must  have  been  called  Velsina 
liy  the  Etruscans,  or  jjerbaps  Velsuna,  as 
it  would  apjiear  from  coins.  If  the  first, 
it  had  anciently  the  same  appellation  a.s 
Bologna — Felsina.  Velsi,  or  Velsina,  was 
a  common  family  name,  often  found  on 
sepulchral  inscriptions.  The  change  of  the 
Etruscan  e  into  the  Latin  o  was  frequent  — 
c.fj.,  Volumnius  for  Velimnas  in  the  cele- 
brated tomb  at  Perugia.  Tliese  vowels, 
indeed,  were  interchangeable  among  the 
Romans,  who  had  originally  henns  for 
Jxinus,  del  or  for  dolor,  &c.,  which  still 
holds  among  their  Iberian  descendants, 
who  have  hiieno,  dudo,  &c.  The  original 
name  of  Yolsinii  may  well  have  been  Yel- 
suua,  a.s  we  find  "  Yolsonianus "  in  an 
inscription  found  near  Yiterbo.  referring 
to  places  in  the  neighbourhood.  Ann. 
Inst.  1829,  p.  175.  Propcrtius  (lY.,  eleg. 
2,  4)  lia.s  Yolsanus,  though  in  some  edi- 
tions wTitten  Yolsinius.  But  the  name  of 
Yulsine  has  also  been  found,  and  at  Bol- 
sena itself  (Linzi,  II.  p.  406)  ;  and  Yuisina, 
or  Yusina,  occurs  several  times  in  the  Lecne 
tomb,  near  Siena.  Lanzi,  II.  p.  3(31.  There 
is  a  gold  coin,  with  the  type  of  a  woman's 
head  and  a  dog,  and  the  legend  "  Yelsu" 
in  Etruscan  letters,  which  Scstini  has 
a.ssigned  to  Yelia  or  Felsina  (Bologna),  but 
which  iliill';r  (Etnisk.  I.  p.  334)  attributes 
to  Yolsinii  (VeLsine  or  Yelsune)  ;  and  he 
thinks  tliat  many  copper  coins  that  have 
been  referred  to  Yoltcrra,  or  Bettona,  more 
properly  belong  to  Yolsinii.  Bunsen  (Bull. 
Inst.  1833,  p.  97)  considers  this  conjecture 
of  Miiller  s,  as  to  the  gold  coin,  to  be  most 


hapjiy. 

■'  Zonar.  Annal.  YIII.  7. 

"  Plin.  N.  H.  II.  53  ;  Yal.  Max.  IX.  1  ; 
Flor.  I.  21  ;  Liv.  X.  37  ;  cf.  Plin.  XXXIY. 
16. 

''  Livy  (loc.  cit.)  ranks  it  with  Arretiuni 
and  Perusia,  as  among  the  "capita  Etni- 
rije  ;"  and  Yalerius  ^laximus  (loc.  cit.)  so 
designates  it.  Pliny  (II.  54),  however, 
speaks  of  Porsena  a.s  king  of  Yolsinii, 
which  might  be  interpreted  into  a  depen- 
dence on  Chiusi,  but  perhaps  indicates 
merely  a  connection.  It  is  highly  probable, 
as  Miiller  (Etrusk.  einl.  2,  17)  opines,  that 
after  the  fall  of  Tarquinii,  A'olsinii  was  the 
mightiest  state  of  Etruria. 

**  Liv.  Y.  31,  32  ;  Diod.  XI Y.  p.  319, 
ed.  Rhod.  The  latter  writer  states  that  the 
battle  was  fought  at  Gurasium,  which  Cluver 
(II.  p.  .5.57)  regards  as  a  conniption  of  some 
better  known  name.  Niebulir  (III.  p.  274) 
.says  it  is  clear,  from  the  feeble  way  in 
which  the  war  of  368  was  can-ied  on,  that 
it  was  the  enterprise  of  Yolsinii  alone. 
But  this  city  is  not  mentioned  by  Liv^- 
(YI.  9,  10),  who  records  the  events  of  that 
war. 

Miiller  (Etnisk.  einl.  2,  15,  n.  124) 
thinks  that  the  Solonium  mentioned  by 
Dionysius  (II.  37)  as  an  Etniscan  cit}', 
wlience  a  Lncumo.  prol)ably  Cades  Yibenna, 
came  to  the  assistance  of  Romulus,  was 
Yolsinii.  Cluver  (II.  i)p.  454,  473),  hov>-- 
ever,  thinks  Vetulonium  is  here  the  true 
reading  ;  while  others  would  have  it  Pojiu- 
lonium. 


<HAP.  XXXV.]  HISTORY    OF    VOLSIXII.  21 

the  siege  of  Sutriuia,^  and  after  the  fatnl  overthrow  on  the  A^uli- 
nionian  hike/  which  must  have  heen  in  the  territory  of  Volsinii, 
we  iind  it  stated  that  J'libhus  Decius  ]Mus,  the  llonian  Consul  in 
the  year  446,  took  several  strongholds  belonging  to  this  cit}'.^ 

In  the  year  460  (n.c.  294)  L.  Postn'mius  Megellus,  the  consul, 
laid  waste  the  territory  of  the  Volsinienses,  and  routed  their 
army  not  far  from  their  city,  leaving  2,800  of  them  dead  on  the 
held.  In  consequence  of  this,  with  Terusia  and  Arretium,  they 
sought  for  peace,  and  ohtahied  a  truce  for  forty  j-ears  on  the  pay- 
ment of  a  heavy  fine.'' 

After  this,  just  before  the  war  witli  Pyrrhus,  the  Volsinienses 
again  took  up  arms  against  Pome,  "^^  but  were  defeated,  together 
with  their  allies,  the  Vulcientes,  in  the  year  474  (b.c.  280) ;  ''  and 
it  would  seem  that  they  were  then  finally  subdued.**  Yet  it  is 
difficult  to  reconcile  their  energy  and  the  love  of  independence 
shown  in  their  being  among  the  last  people  of  Etruria  to  resist  the 
Roman  yoke,  with  the  abject  state  of  degradation  into  which,  but 
a  few  years  after,  they  had  fallen,  when  tlie}^  besought  the  aid  of 
Pome  to  regulate  their  internal  affairs.  It  seems  that  the}^  had 
sunk  into  such  an  abyss  of  luxury  and  effeminacy,  as  to  find  the 
government  of  their  state  too  irksome  a  task  for  their  hands,  and 
— unparalleled  degradation  ! — they  committed  it  in  part  to  their 
slaves.  These  soon  usurped  the  supreme  power,  rode  rough- 
shod over  their  masters,  driving  them  into  exile,  or  treating 
them  as  slaves,  forbidding  them  to  assemble  even  at  the  banquet, 
compelling   them   to    draw  up   wills   as  they  were   commanded, 

'   Liv.  IX.    32,  M.  FVLVIVS.Q.  F.JI.X.FLACCVS.AN.CDXXCIX. 

1    Liv.  IX.    39.  C0S.DE.VVLSIN3ENSIBVS.K.N0V. 

-  Liv.  IX.  -11  ;  Diodorus  (XX.  p.  7S1)  Aureliiis  Victor  (de  Yiris  Illust.  XXXVII.) 
merely  says  that  the  Romans  took  a  castle  _<<App.  Claudius  Caudex,  victis  Vulsi- 
calied  Oaprium,  or  as  some  readings  have  niensibus "-must  refer  to  the  same  event ; 
it,  Cffirium.     ^  £qj,  'iQjir^i-.j^^  expressly  asserts  that  the  Vol- 

Liv.  A.  3(.  sinienses   on  that   occasion  called    in   the 

*  Epitome  of  Liv.  XI.  Komans,  as    being   already   their   allies— 

-  See  the  Fasti  Consulares  in  the  Capi-  ^^^^ouSoi  yap  ?,aav  avTwu ;  which  seems 
''"^  most  consistent  with  probability  ;  for  it  is 

VNCANIVS.TI.F.TI.X.COS.  AXN.CDLXXiii.  ^^^^^  ^j^^  ^^^^^  ^f  security  Consequent  on  an 

. .  VLSINIEXSIIJVS.  ET.  VVLCIEMIB.  K.  FEBR.  alliance  with,  or  dependence  on  Koine,  that 

Pliny  (N.H.  XXXIV.  16)  states  that  Me-  can    explain    their   sudden   fall  into  such 

trodorus  Scepsius,  a  (ireek  writer  greatly  depths  of  luxury.     Therefore,  the  reduction 

prejudiced  against  the  Ilonians,  had  a.sscrted  of  this  people  to  the   lloman  yoke  must 

that  Volsinii  was  attacked  for  the  sake  of  have  been  earlier  ;  and  as  there  is  no  men- 

two  thousand  stjitucs  it  contained.  tion  of  any  inten'ening  contest,  it  is  most 

"  The  conquest  which  the  Fasti  Cousu-       probable  that  the  war  of  AH  was  that   in 
lares  record,  in  the  year  489,  must  refer       which  they  were  finally  subdued. 
to  the  subjugation  of  the  revolted  slaves — 


BOLSENA. 


[chap.    XXXV. 


uniting  tlieniselves  Ly  nuirriago  with  the  first  families,  and  com- 
mitting other  acts  of  unbridled  license.  The  llomans  sent  an 
army  to  the  assistance  of  the  masters,  and  soon  restored  to  them 
tlie  dominion  they  had  so  pitifully  renounced.'^ 

AVe  hear  little  more  of  Volsinii  in  ancient  times.  It  was  the 
hirthplace  of  Sejanus,  the  favourite  of  Tiberius.^     Pliny — 

Quel  savio  gentil  che  tutto  seppe— 

asserts  that  it  was  once  consumed  and  utterl}'  destroyed  by  a 
thunderbolt,''  and  also  that  lightning  was  once  drawn  from  heaven 
by  certain  sacred  rites  and  prayers,  to  destroy  a  monster,  called 
Yolta,  which  was  ravaging  the  land.^  He  further  states  that 
hand-mills  were  invented  at  Volsinii,  and  that  some  turned  of 
their  own  accord  ;  ~  whence  it  would  a2)pear  probable  that  "  that 
shrew'd  and  knavish  sprite,  called  Robin  Goodfellow,"  was  of 
Etruscan  origin — a  fact  w'orthy  of  the  attention  of  all  Etrusco- 
Celtic  theorists. 

That  A^olsinii  continued  to  exist  under  the  Empire  is  evident 
from  the  mention  made  of  it  by  ancient  Avriters,"'  as  well  as  from 
remains  discovered  on  the  spot. 


''  So  the  story  is  related  hy  Valerius 
!Maximus,  IX.  1  ;  Floriis,  I.  21  ;  Zonaras, 
Aun.  YIII.  7  ;  Orosius,  IV.  5  ;  A.  Victor, 
in  Decio  Mure.  This  event  was  just  before 
the  first  Punic  war,  and  as  Floras  states 
that  the  Romans  on  this  occasion  were 
commanded  by  Q.  Fabius  Surges,  it  i^ro- 
bably  occurred  in  489,  when  he  «'as  consul. 
Zonaras  says  that  Q.  Fabius  and  .Umilius 
were  consuls,  liut  tliis  must  be  an  error  for 
Mamilius — L.  Jlamilins  Vitulus,  wlio  shared 
the  considate  with  Gui'ges.  It  must  be 
this  event  whicli  is  referred  to  in  the  Epi- 
tome of  the  XVI.  book  of  Livy — res  contra 
Pocnos  et  Vulsinios  prospere  gestas  continet. 
Aurelius  Victor  erroneously  states  that  the 
V'olsinian  slaves  were  subdued  bj'  Decius 
Mils,  for  he,  that  is  tlie  third  of  his  name, 
was  slain  in  475,  in  the  Tarentine  War 
(Cic.  Tusc.  Quiest.  I.  37  ;  De  Fin.  II.  19)  ; 
and  Victor  seems  to  have  confounded  this 
suljjugation  of  the  slaves  with  the  war  of 
conquest  against  Volsinii,  fifteen  years  pre- 
vious. Cluver  (II.  p.  558)  falls  into  a 
.similar  error. 

In  all  the  above-cited  accounts,  tlie  in- 
surgents at  Volsinii  are  called  slaves  — 
nerri,  oiKfrai  —  but  Niebuhr  pronounces 
thcni  to  have  l)ecn  not  domestic  .slaves,  but 


serfs — the  governed  class  in  the  feudal 
system  of  Etruria.  On  this  view,  the 
mystery  of  tlie  reported  sudden  fall  into 
lu.>:ury  vanishes  ;  for  it  was  by  the  aid  of 
the  serfs  that  Volsinii  had  pre»'iously  been 
enabled  to  maintain,  almost  single-handed, 
so  long  and  obstinate  a  struggle  with  Rome, 
and  "for  the  defenders  of  their  common 
liome,"  as  Niebuhr  remarks,  "to  become 
citizens  was  a  matter  of  course."  The 
great  historian  of  Rome  considers  the  fact 
to  amount  to  no  niorc  than  tliat  the  serfs 
obtained,  by  force,  jdiysical  or  moral,  the 
franchise,  seats  in  the  senate,  and  the 
rights  of  intermarriage  and  inheritance  ; 
and  that  all  colouring  superadded  must  be 
attributed  to  party  hatred,  or  to  the  foolish 
exaggerations  of  Greek  writers.  Hist. 
Rome,  I.  p.  124;  III.  p.  546. 

•■^  Tacit.  Ann.  IV.  1  ;  VI.  8. 

'■"  Plin.  II.  53 ;  cf.  Tertul.  Apolog.  XL.  ; 
de  Pallio,  II. 

'  Plin.  II.  54. 

-  Plin.  XXXVI.  29. 

'•>  Tacit.  loc.  cit.  Strabo  (V.  p.  22G)  refers 
to  it  as  one  of  the  principal  cities  of  Etruria 
in  his  day.  Ptolemy,  Greog.  p.  72.  ed.  IJert. 
Plin.  III.  8. 


CHAP.  xxx\-.]  THE    SITE    OF    YOLSINII.  23 

To  a  practised  eye  it  is  evident  at  a  glance  that  the  Etruscan 
city  did  not  occuijy  the  site  of  Bolsena.  The  low  rock  on  which 
the  mediaeval  castle  stands,  is  only  large  enough  for  a  small 
fortress ;  and  if  that  were  the  acropolis,  the  city  must  have  stood 
on  the  shore  of  the  lake,  and  on  the  slope  of  the  long-drawn  hill, 
which  rises  behind  it — a  position  of  no  natural  strength,  and 
such  as  belonged  to  no  city  of  Etruria,  save  those  of  Pelasgic 
origin  on  the  coast ;  and  which,  moreover,  is  at  variance  with 
the  situation  of  ^'olsinii,  which  was  remarkable  for  its  strength. 
In  fact  it  is  on  record  that  on  the  conquest  of  that  cit}'  by  the 
Romans,  it  was  razed  to  the  ground,  and  its  inhabitants  were 
compelled  to  settle  on  another  and  probably  less  defensible  site  ;  ^ 
as  was  the  case  with  Falerii.  This  then  was  the  origin  of 
Bolsena,  which,  as  is  confirmed  by  extant  remains,  occupies  the 
site  of  Iloman,  not  of  Etruscan,  Yolsinii.  The  latter  must  be 
sought  on  more  elevated  ground. 

Some  have  thought  that  Etruscan  Volsinii  occupied  the  site  of 
Orvieto — Urbs  Vetus — "the  old  cit}-,"  jx<;"  excellence;^  others 
place  it  at  Monte  Fiascone,''  but  there  is  no  reason  to  believe  it  was 
eight  or  nine  miles  from  its  lioman  representative.  More  pro- 
bably it  stood  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Bolsena ;  in  which  case  it 
must  have  occupied  one  of  the  clitf-girt  heights  to  the  south  or 
east,  which  are  full  of  sepulchral  caves,  or  the  crest  of  the  hill 
which  overhangs  the  ruined  amphitheatre.  Baron  Bunsen  has 
asserted  that  "on  a  rock  of  ditiicult  access,  on  whose  slopes  lies 
Bolsena,  considerable  remains  of  the  original  citj-  were  to  be 
seen  ;  "  "  but  that  description  is  vague  enough  to  apply  to  any  of 
the  heights  just  mentioned.  The  uncertainty  attaching  to  the 
site  led  me  to  revisit  Bolsena  in  the  summer  of  1846,  when  I  had 
the  satisfaction  of  determining  that  tlie  Etruscan  city  must  have 
occupied  the  summit  of  the  hill  above  the  amphitheatre,  the 
loftiest  height  on  this  side  of  the  lake,  Avhere  the  ground  spreads 
out  into  a  table-land,  extensive  enough  to  hold  a  city  of  first-rate 
imjjortance.  The  si)ot  is  commonly  called  II  Piazzano,  and  is 
the  property  of  the  Count  Corza  Capusavia.  If  this  be  the  site 
referred  to  by  Bunsen,  it  has  now  no  considerable  remains  to 
show,  or  they  were  lost  to  my  sight  in  the  corn  and  underwood  ; 
but  the  soil,  wherever  visible,  was  strewn  with   broken  pottery, 

■»  Zonaras,  Annal.  VIII.  7.  '   IJulI.  Inst.  1833,  p.  06.     He  strenu- 

*  Miiller,     Etrusk.    I.    p.    451  ;  Orioli,        ously  coml)ats  Muller's   uotion  of  Volsinii 

Nouv.  Ann.  Inst.  1836,  p.  50.  being  at  Orvieto. 
^  Abeken,  ]\Iittclitalien,  p.  3-1. 


24  BOLSENA.  [chap.  xxxv. 

Avitliout  any  iulniixture  of  marbles  or  more  iiret-ious  materials, 
such  as  commonly  mark  the  sites  of  lloman  cities — thus  bearing 
testimony  to  its  early  habitation.  Towards  the  lake  the  ground 
breaks  into  cliffs,  which,  together  with  its  great  elevation,  must 
have  rendered  the  height  difficult  of  access.^ 

The  vestiges  of  the  Etruscan  greatness  of  A'olsinii  are  few, 
indeed.  Her  walls,  so  mighty  and  strong,^  are  level  with  the 
dust;  not  a  relic  of  her  temjiles  and  palaces — not  a  limb,  not  a 
torso  of  the  multitude  of  statues  which  once  adorned  the  city — is 
now  to  be  seen.  Beyond  the  broken  pottery,  and  a  few  caves  in 
the  cliffs  below,  now  hardly  to  be  recognised  as  tombs,^  nothing 
is  left  to  indicate  the  existence  of  this  once  powerful  and  opulent 
city  of  Etruria, — 

' '  High  towers,  f aire  temples,  goodly  theaters. 
Strong  walls,  rich  porches,  princelie  pallaces, 
Large  streetes.  brave  houses,  sacred  sepulchres, 
Sure  gates,  sweete  gardens,  stately  galleries. 
Wrought  with  faire  pillours  and  fine  imageries  ; 
All  those  (0  pitie  !)  now  are  turn'd  to  dust, 
And  overgrowue  with  black  oblivion's  rust." 

In  Eoman  remains  Bolsena  is  not  deficient.  Just  without  the 
Florence  gate  stand  the  ruins  of  a  temple,  vulgarly  called  Tempio 
di  Xorzia,  but  on  no  other  authority  than  tliat  Nortia,  the  For- 
tune of  Etruscan  mythology,  is  known  to  have  had  a  shrine  at 

^  Signer  Domenico  Golini,  of  Bagnarea,       rising  in  the  midst  of  an  extensive  cemetery 
between  1849  and   1856   made  extensive       of  Etruscan   tombs,    all   hollowed  in   the 

excavations  in  the  vicinity  of  Bolsena,  in  tufo,  and  rifled  in  ancient  times.     Bidl. 

the  search  for  the  true  site  of   Volsinii.  Inst.  1857,  pp.  131 — 140.     Signer  Golini 

He,   of  course,  recognised    "II  Piazzano  "  does  not  attempt  to  decide  which  of  the 

as  the  site  of  ancient  liabitation,  but  he  three  plateaux  was  the  true  site  of  Volsinii 

discovered  two   other  cliff-bound  plateaux  and  he  gives  us  no  information   as  to  the 

in   the    near    neighbourhood,    which,    as  size  of  the  two  called   "  Civita,"  but  as  he 

ancient    sites    surrounded     by    extensive  mentions  each  of  these  as  an  "acroiDolis," 

cemeteries,    might   dispute  with   this   the  and  as  II  Piazzano  is  spacious   enough  to 

honour  of    having    held    the    celebrated  contain    a    first-rate    Etruscan    city,    the 

Etruscan  city.     One  was  a  densely  wooded  balance  of  probability  is  in  favour  of  its 

height  called   "Civita,"  about  two  and  a  being  the  true  .site  of  Volsinii. 
half  miles  from  Bolsena  to  the  N.E.,  not  ^  Zonar.    Ann.  VIII.    7 — rerxos   oxvpci- 

far  from  the  lake,  which  almost  washed  raToy.     Canina  (Etr.   Alarit.  II.,  p.    141) 

the   slope   beneath   it.      The  height   was  states  that  the  foundations  are  extant,  and 

composed  of  basalt,  resting  on  tufo,  and  prove  the  walls  to  have  been  of  squared 

its    summit    was    level,    and    had    been  blocks,  and  to  have  been  fortified  with  fre- 

separated    by    art    from    the    contiguous  quent  quadrangular  towers, 
lieights  to  render  it  more  difficult  of  access.  '  These  sepulchres  are  not  such  as  to 

The   other  was  a  somewhat   similar  but  tax  the  traveller's  time  or  attention,  bein" 

vine-covered  height  six  miles  to  the  south,  formless,    defaced,   and  tenanted   by  ho"-s 

and  one  mile  and  a  half  from  the  lake,  or  mendicants,     A  few  are  columharia. 
also  bearing  the  name  of  "Civita,"  and 


CHAr.    XXXV.] 


EOMAX  e]-:mains  at  BOLSENA. 


Yolsinii.-  The  temple  of  this  goddess  seems  to  have  been  of 
peculiar  saiictit}',  ft)r  it  was  made  the  national  calendar — a  nail 
being  driven  into  it  ever}^  year,  as  into  the  temple  of  Jove  on  the 
Capitol  of  llome,^  That  temple  being  Etruscan,  most  probably 
stood  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  city.  The  ruins  in  question  are 
undoubtedly  Roman,  being  of  ojnia  incertum  alternating  in  layers 
with  brickwork.  Ixoman  also  are  the  sepulchral  tablets  and  cippi, 
arranged  in  front  of  the  said  gate,  though  among  them  may  be 
recognised  the  Etruscan  name.s  of  Ca^cina  and  Vibenna.  And  a 
bas-relief  of  a  sacrifice  seems  also  to  belong  to  the  lloman 
period.^ 

From  the  temple  a  road  of  basaltic  pavement  leads  in  a  direct 
line  u})  the  hill.  It  probably  ran  from  lloman  A^olsinii  to  the 
ancient  town  on  the  site  of  Orvieto,  and  is  still  the  path  to  the 
amphitlieatre,  or  as  the  natives  term  it,  La  Piazza  del  Mercatello, 
— a  smtill  structure  in  utter  ruin  and  so  palpably  Herman  that  it 
is  difficult  to  understand  how  it  could  ever  have  been  taken  for 


-  Liv.  VII.  3  ;  TertulL  Ai.ologct.  24  ;  ad 
Natioocs,  II.  8.  Juvenal  (X.  74)  imiilies 
the  same,  by  .supposing  Nursia,  as  lie  calls 
tlii.s  goddess,  to  favour  Sejanu.s,  who  was 
liorn  at  Volsinii.  She  is  also  mentioned 
as  the  goddess  of  this  city,  in  a  Latin  votive 
inscription,  given  by  Fabretti  (X.  p.  742)  — 
Nortia  te  venei'or  lare  cretus  Volsiniensi ; 
who  gives  a  second  inscription — 
Magna;  Dea;  Nortite. 
cf.  Gori,  Mus.  Etru.s.  II.  pp.  17,  303. 
Gerhard  (Gottheiten  der  Etrusker)  regards 
Nortia  as  nearly  allied  to  Minerva. 

■*  Liv.  loc.  cit.  Livy  does  not  state  it 
from  his  own  knowledge,  but  on  the  asser- 
tion of  one  Cincius,  a  cautions  authority 
for  such  monuments.  This  custom  was, 
without  doubt,  introduced  into  Home  fi'om 
Etruria,  for  it  had  existed  from  the  time 
of  the  kings  — a  nail  being  annually  driven 
into  the  wall  of  the  temple  of  Jupiter 
Optimus  Maximus — and  falling  at  length 
into  disuse,  was  revived  in  the  year  of 
Home  391  (b.c.  363),  for  the  sake  of  stay- 
ing a  pestilence  ;  when,  strange  enough,  a 
dictator  was  choseu  simply  for  the  sake  of 
driving  the  nail.  This  was  the  case  also 
on  subsequent  occasions.  Liv.  VIII.  18  ; 
IX.  28.  The  custom,  Jis  Livy  confesses, 
.savoured  of  a  semi-barbarous  age— quia 
rara^  per  ea  tempora  literie  erant — yet  was 
preserved,  from  some  superstitious  notion 


of  its  efficacy,  not  merely  as  a  curious  relic 
of  the  olden  time,  as  the  Lord  Mayor  of 
London  counts  hobnails  on  tlie  Exchequer- 
table  on  the  day  of  his  installation.  The 
nail  evidently  had  a  symbolic  meaning  with 
the  Etruscans,  implying  the  fixed  decree 
of  fate  ;  for  on  a  well-known  mirror,  found 
at  Perugia,  it  is  represented  in  the  hand  of 
the  Etruscan  winged  Fate— "  Athrpa,"  or 
Atropos — who  is  about  to  drive  a  nail  with 
a  hammer,  to  indicate  the  predetermined 
death  of  Meleager  and  of  Adonis.  Inghir. 
Mon.  Etrus.  II.  tav.  02,  p.  550.  Vermi- 
glioli,  Inscriz.  Perug.  I.  p.  49.  Gerhard, 
Etrusk.  Spiegel,  taf.  17(5.  Muller  (Etnisk. 
IV.  7,  6)  shows  that  "Athrpa"  is  luit  the 
Nortia  of  the  Etruscans,  with  a  Hellenised 
appellation.  The  same  symbolical  idea  of 
the  nail  was  adopted  by  the  Romans  ;  and 
liavo  trabcdl  jixicm  was  a  proverbial  saying, 
signifying  what  was  unalterably  fixed  by 
Fate  or  Fortune.  Cic.  in  Veir.  VI.  21  ; 
Petron.  Satyr.  75.  Horace's  (Od.  I.  35,  17) 
picture  of  Necessity,  the  companion  of  For- 
tune, bearing  such  nails  in  her  hand,  which 
he  also  terms  adamantine  (Od.  III.  24), 
will  recur  to  the  reader. 

■*  It  is  illustrated  by  Adami  (Storia  di 
Volseno,  p.  133),  who  calls  it  "the  sacri- 
fice of  the  Arvales,"  and  describes  and 
delineates  many  other  Roman  remains 
existing  in  liis  day— about  a  century  since 
— in  the  nei'dibourhood  of  Bolsena. 


26  BOLSENA.  [chap.  xxxv. 

Etruscan.  It  occupies  an  elevated  site  about  a  mile  from  Bol- 
sena,  and  is  surrounded  by  vine3'ards  and  cbestnut-groves.  In 
fact  Juvenal's  picture  of  Volsinii,  "  jilaced  among  ^vooded  bills," 
is  as  applicable  as  ever,  for  all  tbe  slopes  bebind  Bolsena  are 
densely  clotbed — olives  below,  and  cliestnuts  above,  Anotber 
Roman  road,  running  eastward,  and  i)robably  leading  to  Balneum 
Regis,  now  Bagnarea,  ma}'  be  traced  on  the  beigbts  above  tbe 
Franciscan  Convent,  near  tbe  neAv  road  to  Orvieto.'' 

Tbougli  tbe  vestiges  of  tbe  city  and  of  tbe  ampbitbeatre  ma}' 
not  tem})t  bim,  let  not  tbe  traveller  neglect  to  ascend  tliese 
beigbts,  for  tbe  sake  of  tbe  magnificent  view  tbey  command. 
Tbe  lake,  broad  and  brigbt  as  an  arcbangel's  sbield — its  islets, 
once  ever  cbanging  place  and  form  at  tbe  breatb  of  .Eolus  or  tbe 
cai^rice  of  popular  tradition,  but  now  two  fixed  spots  of  beauty  on 
its  fair  surface — Yalentano  glittering  on  tbe  dusky  beigbts  oppo- 
site,— 

"  Like  a  rich  jewel  iu  an  Etliiop's  ear  " — 

Marta  nestling  beneatb  its  bold  beadland — tbe  broad  ccstiis  of 
verdure  girdling  tbe  lake, — all  tbese  and  more  distant  features  of 
beauty  are  seen  over  tbe  slopes  of  olives  and  vines,  of  figs  and 
cliestnuts,  and  over  tbe  caverned  clifi's  wbicb  rise  around  tbe 
castled-crag  of  Bolsena. 

Otber  Roman  remains  bave  been  discovered  at  Bolsena  ;  ^  and 
in  front  of  tbe  cburcli  of  Santa  Cristina  are  sundry  column-sbafts 
of  grey  and  red  granite,  and  an  oval  marble  sarcopbagus  witb 
reliefs  of  tbe  triumpb  of  Baccbus.  Altars,  cipj)},  votive  and 
sepulcbral  tablets  bere  and  tliere  meet  tbe  eye  in  tbe  streets. 

Tbougb  so  little  is  to  be  seen  of  tbe  Etruscan  age  of  A\)lsinii, 
at  tbe  call  of  tbe  pickaxe  and  sbovel  tbe  eartb  yields  ber  bidden 
treasures.  Tbe  site  bad  been  long  neglected  by  tbe  excavator, 
wben  Signor  Golini  of  Bagnarea,  considering  tbat  tbe  neigbbour- 
bood  bad  not  been  explored  to  tbe  extent  wbicb  a  place  so 
renowned  for  antiquity,  wealtli,  and  luxury,  demanded,  resolved 
to  devote  bimself  to  tliis  object.  He  commenced  bis  labours  in 
1849  and  continued  tbem  for  seven  or  eigbt  seasons,  exi)loring 

"  On  this  roarl,  just  above  the  convent,  shows  how  much   caution  is  necessary  in 

are  some  singular  sections  of  earth,  show-  determining  ancient  sites  from  extant  re- 

ing   Roman   masonry  and   opus   inccrtum,  mains,  wlien  the   ground,  as  in  this  case, 

with   a  layer  of   broken  pottery  above  it,  is  commanded  l)y  higher,  contiguous  land, 

eight  or  ten  feet  below  the  present  surface  ;  The   surface    may   present    no    vestige   of 

the    superincumbent    earth    having    been  former  liuViitation. 
washed  down   from   the  hill  above.     This  "  Bull.  Inst.  lS:i7,  p.  ISS;  1S38,  p.  6. 


CHAP.  XXXV.]     EXCAVATIONS   IX  THE   XEIGIIBOURIIOOD.  27 

the  wooded  hills,  north,  south,  and  cast  of  Bolsena  through  a 
district  six  miles  in  length,  and  discovering  numerous  tombs,  and 
several  distinct  cemeteries ;  but  without  the  success  his  perse- 
verance merited.  The  sepulchres,  with  rare  exceptions,  had  been 
previousl}'  ritled.  On  the  slopes  of  the  Piazzano,  above  Bolsena, 
he  found  two  extensive  cemeteries  of  Etruscan  tombs  sunk  in 
the  tufo  rock,  some  of  magnificent  forms,  but  containing  mere 
fragments  of  vases  and  bronzes,  from  which,  however,  he  was 
able  tt)  infer  the  existence  in  early  times  of  a  people  wealth}-  and 
skilled  in  the  tine  arts.  In  a  wooded  hill  called  Lo  Spedaletto, 
1^  mile  south  of  the  Piazzano,  he  found  a  little  necropolis  of  fortj-- 
tliree  tombs,  which  yielded  him  a  number  of  magnificent  bronzes, 
together  with  articles  of  glass  and  jeweller}-,  but  no  painted  vases. 
Many  of  the  bronzes  bore  the  inscription  "  suthina,"  in  Etruscan 
characters.  In  one  of  the  tombs  which  had  a  vertical  shaft  sunk 
from  the  surface  of  the  hill  above,  as  at  Civita  Castellana  and 
Falleri,  he  found  the  foot  of  a  bronze  statue  of  exquisite  art,  the 
only  fragment  extant  of  the  2000  statues  for  which  Yolsinii  was 
renowned  of  old.  At  two  miles  east  from  Bolsena,  in  a  wooded 
spot  called  Cavone  Bujo,  he  opened  a  tomb  which  contained  an 
enormous  sarcophagus  of  basalt,  as  well  as  an  urn  containing 
ashes,  and  numerous  vases  of  bronze,  with  handles  ornamented 
with  human  heads  or  figures,  most  of  them  bearing  Etruscan 
inscriptions  in  which  the  word  "  sutjiina  "  occurs,  sometimes 
alone,  sometimes  with  other  words.  In  the  hills  of  Bucine, 
S.  Antonio,  Scopetone,  and  Turona,  three  miles  to  the  north- 
east of  Bolsena,  he  discovered  a  vast  necropolis,  but  thoroughly 
ransacked  in  former  times.  He  had  no  better  success  in  another 
cemetery  in  the  spot  called  (Irotte  di  Castro,  six  miles  further 
south,  where  the  tombs  Avere  most  abundant  and  larger  and 
grander  than  he  had  previously  excavated,  and  appeared  to  belong 
to  an  ancient  site,  called  Civita,  which  crowned  a  lofty  hill  rising 
in  the  midst." 

But  the  most  valuable  discovery  of  Etruscan  ri)h(i  in  the  necro- 
polis of  Volsinii  was  made  in  1856,  by  Count  Flavio  Ravizza  of 
Orvieto,  on  opening  a  tomb  which  had  been  indicated  by  Golini. 
It  lay  three  miles  to  the  north  of  Bolsena,  in  the  district  of 
S.  Lorenzino,  and  not  far  from  Barano.  It  proved  to  be  a  virgin 
tomb,  the  sepulchre  of  two  Etruscan  ladies  of  rank.  Besides 
some  beautiful  mirrors  and  other  articles  in  bronze,  it  contained 

7  For  details  of  these  excavations  see  Bull.        —  1 40  (Golini).     The  bronzes  nientioneJ  in 
Inst.  1857,  pp.   33 — 3G  (Brunn);  pp.  131       the  text  are  now  iu  the  JIuseo  Gregoriano. 


28  BOLSEXA.  [chap.  xxxv. 

two  sets  of  jewellerv,  two  wrcatlis  of  olive  uml  lauixl  leaves,  one 
in  gold,  the  other  in  drctntni ;  two  pairs  of  gold  bracelets,  one  of 
the  nsual  serpent  form,  two  rings,  and  two  ^tibithc,  and  above  all, 
two  pairs  of  earrings,  with  winged  ^'ictories  as  pendants,  of  ex- 
quisite and  elaborate  art,  and  among  the  most  beautiful  specimens 
of  goldsmith's  work  that  have  ever  been  rescued  from  the  tombs 
of  Etruria.'' 

A  chapter  on  Bolsena  would  not  l)e  complete  without  a  word 
on  its  miracles.  The  Santa  Cristina,  to  whom  the  church  is 
dedicated,  was  a  virgin-martyr,  who  was  cast  into  the  lake  by 
"the  bewildered  Pagans  of  (dd  time,"  and  though  she  touched 
the  bottom,  as  is  proved  by  the  prints  of  her  feet  on  the  rocks, 
which  remain  to  this  day  to  confound  the  inibeliever,  she  would 
not  drown,  but  came  safely  to  land.  Her  body  was  preserved  in 
her  church  till  some  pilgrims  committed  a  pious  fraud  and 
i?muggled  it  off  to  Palermo.  But  this  is  not  the  celebrated 
■"Miracle  of  Bolsena,"  which  lias  made  the  name  of  this  pett}' 
town  known  from  Chili  to  Japan,  wherever  the  Poman  Pontiff 
has  power  or  advocates,  or  the  genius  of  Palfaelle  worshippers. 
That  event  occurred  in  this  same  church  of  Santa  Cristina,  some 
six  centuries  since,  when  a  priest,  performing  the  mass,  enter- 
tained doubts  of  the  real  presence — doubts  not  even  expressed — 
when  blood  forthwith  burst  from  the  wafer,  and  left  its  stains  on 
the  altar  and  marble  lioor,  where  they  may  be  seen  to  this  da}' — 
screened,  however,  from  heretical  scrutiny. 

It  remains  to  be  said  that  the  modern  representative  of  this 
ancient  greatness  is  a  poverty-stricken  picturesque  town  of  some 
1700  souls.  Being  on  the  old  high  road  to  Pome,  and  a  post- 
station,  it  has  an  inn — the  Aquila  d'Oro — which  trumpets  its  own 
l)raises,  and  promises  the  traveller  "  niost  excellent  entertain- 
ment." Lc  parole  sonfcmmhic,  i  fatti  vuischl — "words  are  femi- 
nine, deeds  masculine,"  saitli  the  proverb;  or  as  the  Spaniards 

express  it — 

Del  dicho  al  hecho 
Hay  gran  trecho, — 

therefore  put  not  your  faitli  in  the  Boniface  of  Bolsena. 

■"^  Bull.  IiLst.  ISoS  p.  11  (Golini) ;  pp.  possession.  They  have  since  imssed  into 
18-1—9  (Briinn).  I  saw  these  ornanieuts  the  hands  of  Signer  Alessandro  Oastellani, 
in   1862  at    Orvieto,    in    Count  Ravizza's       and  are  now  in  the  IJritisli  Museum. 


CHAPTER    XXXVI. 

MONTE    FIXSCO^E— FA  XUJf    VOLTUMX^E? 
Temple  and  tower  went  down,  nor  left  a  site. — Byuux. 

Quale  per  incertam  liinam,  sul)  luce  malignd, 
Est  iter  in  silvis,  ubi  coehun  condidit  iimbrd 
Jupiter,  et  rebus  nox  abstulit  atra  colorem. — Virgil. 

It  is  a  distance  of  nine  miles  from  Bolsena  to  Monte  Fiascone, 
and  the  road  on  the  long  ascent  commands  superb  views  of  the 
lake  and  its  richly-wooded  shores.  That  the  lake,  notwithstand- 
ing its  vast  size,  was  once  the  crater  of  a  volcano,  seems  proved 
by  the  character  of  the  hills  encircling  it.  In  one  spot,  about 
a  mile  from  Bolsena,  there  is  strong  evidence  of  this  in  a  cliff  of 
basaltic  columns,  irregular  pentagons,  hexagons,  and  heptagcnis, 
Jailed  up  horizontally.  The  quarries,  for  which  these  shores  were 
of  old  renowned,  liave  recently  been  recognised  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  Bagnarea,  between  that  town  and  the  Lake.^ 

Though  the  lake  took  its  ancient  name  from  Yolsinii,  the  prin- 
cipal city  on  its  shores,  yet,  as  the  ager  Tarquliiieiisis  stretched 
up  to  its  waters  on  the  south,  it  was  sometimes  called  the  Tar- 
quiuian  Lake.^  In  all  ages  something  of  the  marvellous  seems 
to  have  attached  to  it.  The  blood-flowing  wafer,  and  the  foot- 
prints of  the  virgin-martyr,  have  already  been  mentioned.  Its 
islands  are  described  as  floating  groves,  blown  b}-  the  Avind,  now 
into  triangular,  now  into  cii'cular  forms,  but  never  into  squares.'^ 
Shall  we  ]iot  rather  refer  this  unsteady,  changeful  character  to 
the  eyes  of  the  beholders,  and  conclude  that  the  propagators  of 
the  miracle  had  been  making  too  dee})  potations  m  the  rich  Avine 
of  its  shores  ?  Now,  at  least,  the  islands  have  lost  their  erratic 
and  Protean  propensities,  and,  though  still  capt  with  wood,  have 
taken  determinate  and  beautiful  forms,  no  longer  plastic  beneath 
the  breath  of  .1'a)1us.^     As  early  as  the  Second  Punic  War,  this 

'  See  Vol.  I.  p.  IGl  ;  and  p.  493.  •''  Plin.  loc.  cit. 

-  Plin.  II.  •JCi,  *  The  Isola  Martana   is   said  to  retain 


30  MOXTE    riASCOXE.  [cuap.  xxxvx. 

lake  was  the  subject  of  a  miracle — its  waters  were  changed  into 
blood  '" — a  portent  of  the  pestilence  that  ensued.  If  miracles 
have  ceased,  malaria  has  not,  but  summerly  visits  the  spot,  and 
makes  these  beautiful  and  fertile  shores,  whicli  might  be  a  para- 
dise, a  desolation  and  a  curse.  Man  has  well-nigh  deserted  them, 
and  the  fish  and  wild-fowl,  whicli  abounded  here  of  old,  have  still 
imdisturbed  possession  of  its  waters.** 

Monte  Fiascone  stands  on  the  very  summit  of  its  hill,  the 
loftiest  gi'ound  on  the  shores  of  the  lake.  It  is  a  town  of  some 
importance,  with  a  neat  cathedral  b}'  San  ]\lichele,  on  the  plan 
of  the  Pantheon,  but  with  no  decent  inn.  Beyond  the  gloiious 
prospect  it  commands,  and  its  wine,  the  far-famed,  prelate-snaring, 
lu'elate-slaj'ing  "Est,  est,  est,'^~  which,  if  it  be  not  Latin  for 
*'  good,"  as  the  natives  tell  you,  is  understood  to  represent  that 
quality  in  the  vernacular,  and  the  quaint  mediaeval  church  of 
San  Flaviano,  on  the  descent  to  Viterbo,  there  is  little  of  interest 
in  Monte  Fiascone. 

The  natural  position  of  !Monte  Fiascone  is  so  strong,  that  it  is 
difficult  to  believe  the  Etruscans  could  have  neglected  to  avail 
themselves  of  it.  It  resembles  that  of  Volterra,  Fiesole,  and 
some  other  cities  in  the  northern  part  of  the  land,  but  has  no 
counterpart  in  this  southern  district.  Its  Etruscan  antiquity  is 
indeed  universalh'  admitted  ;  yet  there  are  no  remains  of  that 
origin  on  the  spot.  The  fortifications  are  wholly  oi  the  middle 
ages ;  but  Latin  inscriptions,  found  on  the  site,  indicate  an 
existence  under  the  Romans,  while  tombs  in  the  neighbourhood 
give  evidence  of  yet  higher  antiquity.*^    Such  of  these  sepidchres  as 

vestiges  of  antiquity.     The  other,   called  death,  and  for  a  harrel  of  the  fatal  wine  to 

Bisentino,   must  have   received    its   name  be  poured  upon  his  grave.     The  first  part  of 

from  the  Vesentum  or  Vesentium  of  Pliuy's  the  bequest  is  religiously  attended  to,  but 

catalogue  (HI.  8),  the  site  of  which  town  the  people  now  dispense  with  tiie  heathenish 

lies  on  the  western  shore  of  the  lake,  tliree  libation,  and  pour  the  wine,  which  Sancho 

or  four   miles   N.W.    of   Capo  di  Monte.  Panza  would  have  pronounced  "very  Ca- 

Bull.  Inst.  1864,  p.  101.     The  island  con-  tholic,"  down  their  own  throats  instead, 
tains  no  remains  of  ancient  times.    Canina,  ^  The    disappearance   of    the   Etruscan 

Etr.  Marit.  II.  p.  137.  fortifications,    if  there  were  any,  may  be 

'  Liv.  XXVII.  23.  explained  by  the  fact  that  they  must  have 

••  Strabo,  V.  p.  22(5.      Columella,  de  Re  been    of   tufo,   and   therefore   much   more 

Rust.  VIII.  16.     Strabo  errs  in  saying  that  liable  to  destruction  than  tliose  of  the  cities 

the   reeds   and   rashes  of  this   lake  were  to  the   north,  coni]iosed,  as   they  are,    of 

borne  I)y  the  Tiber  to  Rome,  for  the  lake  enormous  masses  of  limestone  or  hard  s;md- 

has  but  one  emissaiT,   the   JIarta,   which  stone.     They   would  doubtless    have  been 

falls  into  the  sea  below  Coraeto.  absorbed  by  the  modern  walls  and  houses, 

7  The  family  of  the  Rev.  John  Fugger  a  process  which  has  taken  place  to  a  greater 

bequeathed  a  sum  of  money  for  masses  to  or  less  extent  throughout  the  tufo  district 

be  said  for  his  soul  on  the  anniversarj'  of  his  of  Etruria. 


CHAP,  xxxvr.]    THE  SITE  ETRUSCAN,  BUT  NAME  UNKNOWN.     31 

are  now  open  in  the  slopes  below  the  town  have  lost  their  distinc- 
tive character  from  serving  as  ahodes  to  the  labonringpopnlation, 
who  are  content  to  dwell  in  caves  and  holes  in  the  rock,  in  the 
most  abject  squalor  and  wretchedness.  Of  them  mny  it  verily  be 
said,  "  They  remain  among  the  graves,  and  lodge  in  the  monu- 
ments ;  and  tlie  broth  of  abominable  things  is  in  their  vessels." 
But  tombs  of  undoubted  P^truscan  origin  are  found  not  only  on 
the  lower  slopes,  but  also  in  the  plain  at  the  base  of  the  hill  to 
tlie  south  of  the  Lake.  Extensive  excavations  were  made  in  the 
spring  of  1876,  which  yielded  no  vases  of  value  or  interest,  but 
an  abundance  of  bronz;es,  some  of  considerable  beauty,  besides  a 
few  articles  in  the  more  precious  metals.  This  is  a  new  and 
promising  field  for  excavating  enterprise. 

The  original  name  of  this  site  has  been  sought  in  its  modern 
appellation,  which  has  been  variously  converted  into  Mons  Phiscon 
— Mons  Falconis — Mons  Faliscorum,  or  the  site  of  Falorii ; 
though  it  seems  clearl}'  to  be  derived  from  the  wine  for  which  the 
Mount  has  for  ages  been  celebrated — Fiascone  signifying  "  a  large 
flask."  By  one  it  has  been  regarded  as  the  site  of  the  Etruscan 
Yolsinii ;  ^  by  another  of  Trossulum,^  a  town  which  was  taken  by 
some  Roman  knights  without  the  aid  of  foot-soldiers,  and  which 
is  said  to  have  lain  nine  miles  on  this  side  of  Volsinii."  'J'rossu- 
lum,  however,  is  more  likely  to  have  stood  in  the  ])lain,  at  a  spot 
called  Vado  di  Trosso,  or  Vado  Trossano,  two  miles  from  IMonte 
Fiascone  towards  Ferento,  which  was  recognised  some  ages  since,"'^ 
though  at  the  present  day  both  site  and  name  are  utterly  un- 
known."'' ]\Ionte  Fiascone  is  hardl}^  the  sort  of  place  to  be  taken 
at  a  gallop. 

'  Abckcn,  Mittelitalien,  p.  34.  cannot  Le  the  case,  because  Troilium  was 

*  C'luvci-,  Ital.  Antiq.  II.  1).  .'jG2.   Canina,  not  taken  by  a  sinldcn  assault,  but  licforc 

Etruria  JIaiit.  II.  p.  130.  it  was  attacked,    470   of   its   inhabitants, 

2  Plin.   XXXIII.   9.      Fcstus  ap.   Paul.  men  of  great  wealth,  purchased  iinniunity 

Diac.  V.  Trossuli.     Schol.  in  Pers.  Sat.  I.  of  Carvilius  the  Consul,  and  were  allowed 

82.     This  exploit  long   conferred    on    the  to  leave  the  town.     And  after  the  cajituro, 

Uoinan  cquitca  the  name  of   Trossuli,      it  the  same  Roman  foi'cc  took  five  castles,  all 

is  not  so  singular  a  feat  as  was  iicrfonned  in  strong  natural  positions, 

by  a  body  of  French  cavalry  in  17i);'5,  when  •*  Mariani,   dc    Etruria  IMetrop.  p.    4()  ; 

they  captured   sonic  Dutch   ships  of  war,  and  before  him,  Holsten.  Annot.  ad  Chiver, 

stuck  fast  in  the  ice.     Trossulus  from  being  p.    C7,    and    Albcrti,    Dcscrit.    d'    Italia, 

nn  honourable  appellation  became  one  of  p.  (W. 

reproach,  equivalent  to  a  luxurious,  cffe-  ■•  I  have  on  several  occasions  made  in- 

minate  fellow.     Seneca,  Ei)ist.  87,  8.     Livy  qniries  at   Monte   Fiascone,   Viterbo,    and 

(X.  46)  mentions  a  town  of  Etruria,  called  IJoIsena,  and  have  never  been  ab'e  to  leara 

Troilium,  taken  by  the  Romans  in  the  year  that   my  spot  in  this  neighbourhood  now 

461   (B.C.    2St3),    which    Cluvcr  (loc.    cit.)  bears  the  name  of  Trosso.      In  the  time  of 

thinks    identical    with   Trossulum.      This  Holstenius   and  Mariani  it  was  probab'.y 


32  MOXTE    FIASCONE.  [chap,  xxxvi. 

There  tire  two  places  spoken  of  by  ancient  writers,  either  of 
Avhich  is  more  likely  than  any  of  those  yet  mentioned  to  have 
occupied  this  site.  One  is  GMiarea,  a  city  of  Etruria,  which  sub- 
mitted to  be  governed  by  its  manumitted  slaves,  and  is  described 
as  "  extraordinarily  strong,  for  in  the  midst  of  it  was  a  hill  rising 
tliirty  furlongs  in  height,  and  having  at  its  base  a  forest  of  all 
sorts  of  trees,  and  abundance  of  water."'  Though  the  usurpation 
of  the  slaves  evidently  refers  to  the  events  at  Yolsinii,  already  re- 
corded, it  is  possible  that  the  writer  erred  chiefly  in  assigniug  them 
to  another  site  in  A'olsinian  territory,  the  situation  of  which,  even 
to  the  ascent  of  the  hill,  foin*  miles  in  length,  accords  closel}'  with 
that  of  Monte  Fiascone.''  The  name,  which  given  by  a  foreigner, 
may  be  merely  an  epithet  descriptive  of  the  place — Winy  or  Yiny 
— ma}'  be  cited  in  corroboration  of  this  view.  Indeed  it  is  nenrly 
equivalent  to  the  actual  appellation — Fiascone.  The  light 
volcanic  soil  of  these  slopes  must  have  been  in  all  ages  well 
adapted  to  the  cultivation  of  the  vine  ;  which  still  flourishes  on 
many  sites  in  Ital}^  where  Bacchus  was  of  old  most  renowned. 

But  I  think  it  quite  as  probable  that  this  was  the  site  of  the 
Fanum  "N'oltumnte,  the  shrine  at  which  "  the  princes  of  Etruria  " 
were  wont  to  meet  in  council  on  the  general  affairs  of  the  Con- 
federation." A\'e  have  no  record  or  intimation  of  the  precise 
locality  of  this  celebrated  shrine,  but  we  know  it  must  have  been 
north  of  the  Giminian,  for  after  the  conquest  by  the  Iiomans  of 
the  whole  of  the  Etruscan  plain  to  the  south,  we  find  it  still 
mentioned  as  the  grand  seat  of  council.^     Then  Avhere  so  likelj' 

a   mere    "  Inor/licttaccio,"    and   now  is  so  reganls  tlie  bill  rising  in  the  midst  of  the 

utterly  desolate   that   its    very  name   has  city  ;  the  fact  resolves  itself  into  this,  that 

jjerished.  the  city  stood  on  a  hill,  not  thirty  furlongs 

^  De  Mirab.  Aiisciilt.  cap.  96,  commonly  in  perpendicular  height,  but  the  ascent  to 

ascribed  to  Aristotle,  and  printed  -with  his  which  was  of  such  a  length, 
works,  but  written  by  an  unknown  Txreek  ''  Liv.  IV.  23,  25,  61  ;  V.  17  ;  VI.  2. 

about  the  130  Olympiad  (260  B.C.).     He  *'  Liv.  VI.  2.     It  is   elsewhere  strongly 

is  quoted  by  Stephanas  of  Byzantium,  who  intimated  by  Livy  (V    17)  that  the  Fanum 

calls  the  town  Oiva  {xuh  race).     Niebuir  Voltumn;e  was  in  this  district  of  Etruria, 

(I.    p.    124,    n.    382)    considers   this    un-  for  when  Capeua  and  F.derii  sought  assi.st- 

doubtedly    to    mean    Viilsinii,    and    that  ance  in  behalf  of  Veil  from  the  confederate 

Oluapea  was  a  distortion  of  the  name,  com-  princes  of  the  land  there  sitting  in  council, 

mitted  by  the  author  or  transcribers.     So  they  received    for   reply  that   no    succour 

also  Ai-nold  (Ili.story  of  Rome,  II.  p.  530)  ;  could  be  afforded — that  it  was  vain  to  look 

and  Miillcr  (Etrusk.  If.  2,  10),  who  amends  for  it,  "  especially  in  that  part  of  Etruria," 

(Enarea  into  Olsanea,  remarking  that  Pro-  on  account  of  the  unexpected  invasion  of 

pertius  (IV.  eleg.  2,  4)  has   "  Volsanus,"  the  Gauls  ;  wlio  must  then  have  been  be- 

and  that  Volci  was  called  by  the   Greeks  sieging  Clusium,  which  lies  in  the  valley 

"O^Kiov.  of  the  Clanis,  tlie  natural  entrance  to  the 

''  It  is  scarcely  necessary  to  obseiTc  that  gi'eat  Etruscan  plain  from  the  north    Some- 

the  text  must  not  be  taken  literally  as  thing  may  perhaps  be  deduced  from  the 


CHAP.  XXXVI.]       mOBA-BLY    THE    FANUiM    V0LTUMX7E. 


3;J 


as  in  the  great  plain  of  Etruria,  which  was  originally  in  the  very 
centre  of  the  land,  and  contained  the  metropolis  of  the  Confedera- 
tion— Tarqninii — the  spot  hallowed  as  the  source  of  the  civil  and 
religious  polity  of  the  Etruscans  ?^  That  the  shrine  stood  on  an 
eminence  we  may  conclude  from  analogy.  The  temple  of  Jupiter 
Latialis,  the  common  shrine  of  the  Latin  cities,  as  this  was  of 
the  Etruscan,  stood  on  the  summit  of  the  Alban  Mount.^  We 
also  know  that  the  Etruscans  were  wont  to  "  make  high  places  " 
to  their  gods^ — a  custom  they  had  in  connnon  with  the  Greeks 


fact  tliat  tlie  statvie  of  Vortunimi.s,  an 
Etruscan  deity  nearly  allied  to  Voltumna, 
■which  was  set  \ip  in  the  Tuscus  Yicus  at 
Home,  was  captured  from  this  part  of 
Etruria,  as  rropcrtius  (IV.  eleg.  2)  states  — 

Tuscus  CLjo,  ct  Tuscis  orior ;    nee  pccnitet 
inter 
Pra-lia  Volsanos  deseruisse  tocos. 

Vertumnus  seems  to  have  heen  an  Etrus- 
can IJacchus,  a  god  of  wine  and  fruits. 
He  is  called  Vortumnus  liy  Yarro  (L.  L.  V. 
8  ;  VI.  3)  ;  and  prolialily  also  Volturnus, 
by  Festus  (ap.  Paul.  Diac.  v.  Volturnalia), 
as  well  as  by  Varro  (L.  L.  VII.  45) ;  though 
neither  recognises  the  relation  in  this  case. 
See  Miiller's  views  on  Vertumnus  (Etrusk. 
III.  3,  3).  Voltumna  was  probably  his 
wife,  equivalent,  thinks  Gerhard  (Grottheitcn 
der  Etruskcr,  p.  8),  to  Pomona.  Voltumna 
or  Volturna  was  also  an  Etruscan  family- 
name,  found  in  sepulchral  inscriptions  at 
Coineto,  Perugia,  and  also  at  Sovana.  In 
its  Etruscan  form  it  was  Velthurna. 

•'  Antiquaries  have  \iniversally  agreed  in 
placing  it  in  this  region,  though  differing 
as  to  its  precise  locality.  The  general 
opinion,  from  the  time  of  Annio,  has 
favo\ired  Viterbo,  from  the  existence  of  a 
church  tliere  called  S.  Maria  in  Volturna. 
IVIulIer  (Etrusk.  II.  I,  4)  inclines  to  jilacc 
it  near  the  Vadimonian  Lake.  Caniua  (Etr. 
Mar.  II.,  p.  131)  places  it  at  Valentano,  on 
the  west  of  the  Lake  of  Bolsena  (see  Vol.  I. 
p.  494).  Lanzi  (Saggio  II.  p.  108)  thinks 
it  must  have  occupied  a  central  situation, 
like  the  similar  shrines  of  Delphi  and  of 
the  Alban  Mount.  The  site  of  the  latter  is 
siiid  by  Dionysius  (IV.  p.  250)  to  have  been 
chosen  for  its  central  advantages.  The  traces 
of  the  name  preserved  at  Viterbo,  even  were 
it  ascertained  that  the  said  church  occupies 
tlie  site  of  a  temple  to  Voltumna,  do  not 
prove  this  to  be  the  celebrated  Fanuni,  It 
VOL.   ir. 


is  not  to  be  supposed  that  the  goddess  had 
only  one  shrine,  any  more  than  tiiat  Apollo 
was  worshipped  oidy  at  Delphi,  Diana  at 
p]phesus,  or  Juno  at  Argos.  It  was  merely 
the  Fanum  of  Voltumna  par  excellence, 
just  as  St.  Peter  has  his  chosen  temple  at 
the  Vatican,  St.  .lames  at  Compostela,  and 
the  Virgin  at  Loreto. 

^  Dion.  Hal.  loc.  cit.  The  shrine  of 
Apollo  was  on  the  summit  of  Soracte  ;  and 
that  of  Feronia,  common  to  the  Sabines, 
Latins,  and  Etruscans,  has  been  shown  to 
have  occupied  in  all  probability  the  elevated 
shoulder  of  the  same  mountain  (see  Chapter 
X.  p.  129). 

-  The  temple  of  ,Tuno  was  on  the  Acro- 
polis of  Veii  (Liv.  V.  21  ;  Plut.  v.  Camill.  5), 
and  at  Falerii  it  stood  on  the  summit  of  a 
steep  and  lofty  height.  Ovid.  Amor.  III. 
eleg.  13,  6.  The  Ara  Mutiie,  another 
Etruscan  shrine,  mo.st  probably  occupied 
the  summit  of  Monte  Musino.  See  Chapter 
IV.  p.  57.  It  was  an  Etruscan  custom 
to  raise  in  every  city  a  triple  temple  to 
the  three  great  divinities,  Jove,  Juno, 
and  Minerva  (Serv.  ad  Virg.  lEu.  I.  422), 
and  from  the  analogy  of  the  Romans,  who 
borrowing  the  custom  from  the  Etruscans, 
raised  the  same  triple  shrine  on  the  Capitol, 
we  may  conclude  it  was  upon  the  Acropolis 
or  highest  part  of  the  city.  On  the  Roman 
Capitol,  indeed,  were  images  of  all  the 
gods.  Serv.  ad  SaW.  II.  319.  It  seems 
to  have  been  a  very  ancient  and  general 
Italian  custom  to  raise  temijles  on  the 
Arces  of  cities.  Thus,  Orvinium  in  Sabina, 
a  town  of  the  Aborigines,  had  a  very  ancient 
shrine  of  ]\Iinerva  on  its  Acropolis.  Dion. 
Hah  L  p.  12.  Virgil  (.T,n.  IIL  531)  de- 
scribes a  temple  to  the  same  goddess  on 
such  a  site  on  the  Calalirian  coa.st — tem- 
]ilunique  apparet  in  arce  Minervoe.  Tlie 
word  Arx  seems  sometimes  to  be  used  as 
e(piivalent  to  temple,  a.s  in  Liv.  I.  18. 


34  MONTE    FIASCONE.  [chap,  xxxvi. 

and  oriental  nations,''  and  one  conformable  to  the  natural  feelings 
of  humanity;  just  as  kneeling  or  prostration  are  by  all  men,  save 
Quakers,  acknowledged  to  be  the  natural  attitudes  of  adoration 
and  humility.  Analogy  leads  us  to  the  conclusion  that  the 
Fanum  Voltumnie,  the  shrine  of  the  great  goddess  of  the  Etrus- 
cans, whither  the  sacerdotal  rulers  of  the  land  'vvere  -wont  to  resort 
in  times  of  ditiiculty  and  danger,  for  the  sake  of  propitiating  the 
goddess,  or  of  consulting  the  will  of  heaven  by  augury,  must  have 
stood  on  an  eminence  rather  than  on  the  low  site  which  has 
generally  been  assigned  to  it.  And  if  on  a  height,  and  in  the 
great  Etruscan  plain,  where  so  probabh'  as  on  the  crest  of  Monte 
Fiascone,  which  rises  in  the  centre  of  the  expanse,  and  from  its 
remotest  corner  still  meets  the  eye — a  city  on  a  hill  which  cannot 
be  hid  "?  To  j^^'oi'C  the  tact  we  have  not  sufhcient  data  ;  but  it  is 
strongly  fovoured  by  probability. 

It  is  not  to  be  supposed  that  the  temple  stood  wholly  apart 
from  habitations.  The  priests  must  have  dwelt  on  the  spot,  and 
accommodation  must  have  been  found  for  '"  the  prmces  of 
Etruria  "  and  their  retinues,  as  Avell  as  for  those  who  flocked 
thither  to  attend  the  solemn  festivals  and  games,'*  and  for  the 
traders  who  availed  themselves  of  such  opportunities  to  dispose 
of  their  wares  ; ''  so  that,  as  in  the  case  of  Feronia,  there  must 
have  been  a  permanent  population  on  the  spot,  attracted  by  the 

^  In  Greece,  temples  to  the  gi-eat  gods  So  in  the  East,  Jnjiiter  (Horn.  II.  XXII. 

were  generally  on  the  Acropolis — as  that  170)  and  Cybele  (Virg.  ^n.  IX.  86)  had 

of  Minen-a  at  Athens,  and  at  Jlegai-a  (Pan-  shrines  on  Jlonnt  Ida.      The  ancient  Per- 

san.  I.   42,   4) — of  Jove  and  ^Minerva   at  siaus  also,  though  they  raised  no  statues  or 

Argos  (Pans.  II.  24,  3) — of  several  deities  altai-s  to  the  gods,  sacrificed  to  them  on 

at   Corinth    |Paus.    II.    4,   6,   7) — and   of  elevated  sites.     Strabo,  XV.  p.  732.     The 

Apollo  at  Delphi  (Pans.  X.  8,  9).     Besides  examples   of    other   oriental   nations   that 

which,  the   most   important   shrines  were  might  lie  taken  from  Sacred  Writ  are  too 

generally  on  eminences — as  the  temple  of  numerous  to  quote,  and  will  occur  to  the 

Panhellenic  Jove   in  the  island  of  JEgina  memory  of  the  reader. 
(Pans.    II.    30,    3) — as    the    HeriBum    at  *  That  sucli  festivals  were  held  at  these 

Argos    (Pans.   II.    17,   2),   rediscovered    of  national  conventions,  we  learn  from   Li  v. 

late    years    by   Greneral    Gordon    (Mure's  V.  1.     Similar  solemnities  were  celebrated 

Greece,  II.  p.  177,  et  seq.) — and  as  the  at  the  temple  of  Jupiter  Latialis  on  the 

celebrated  temple  of  Venus  on  the  summit  AUian  Mount.     Dion.  Hal.  IV.  p.  250. 
of  Moimt  Erj-.\,  in  Sicily.     Polyb.  I.  55  ;  ^  This    might    lie    presumed    from    the 

Tacit.  Ann.  IV.  43.     The  .shrines  of  Apollo  analogy  of  the  Lucus  Feroni;e,  where  large 

were    usually   on    mountain-tops.      Horn.  fairs  were  held  at  these  religious  gatherings 

Hymn.  Apol.  144.     Lofty  [daces  were  dedi-  (Dion.  Hal.  III.  p.  173  ;   Liv.  I.  30)  ;  but 

cated  to  Saturn  ;  whence  Olympus  was  called  it  is  also  .strongly  implied  by  Livy  (VI.  2) 

the  Saturnian  height.      Lycoph.  Cass.  42.  when  he  says  that  merchants   brought  to 

Mountains,  says  Lucian  (de  Sacrif.  p.  185,  Home  tlie  news  of  the  Etrn.scan  council  at  ■ 

cd  I3ourd.),  are  dedicated  to  the  gods  by  the   Fanum  Voltumn;e.     Fairs  were  held 

the  universal  consent  of  mankind.     Similar  at  the  similar  annual  meetings  of  the  *Eto- 

instauces  might  be  multiplied  extensively.  liau  League  at  Thermum.     Polyb.  V.  1. 


CHAP.  XXXVI.]       SFECULATIOXS    ON    THE    TEMPLE.  So 

temple  und  the  wants  of  llio  worsliippers.  This  wouhl  ex))hiiu 
tlie  tombs  found  on  the  slopes  of  the  hill. 

"Well  may  this  heiglit  have  been  chosen  as  the  site  of  the 
national  temple  !  It  commands  a  maf:^nificent  and  truly  Etruscan 
panorama.  The  lake  shines  beneath  in  all  its  breadth  and 
beauty — truly  meriting  the  title  of  "  the  great  lake  of  Italy  "  ^ — 
and  though  the  towers  and  jialaces  of  Volsinii  have  long  ceased 
to  sparkle  on  its  bosom,  it  still  mirrors  the  white  cliffs  of  its  twin 
islets,  and  the  distant  snow-peaks  of  Amiata  and  Cetona.  In 
every  other  direction  is  one  "  intermingled  pomp  of  vale  and 
hill."  In  the  east  rise  the  dark  mountains  of  Umbria;  and  the 
long  line  of  mist  at  their  foot  marks  the  course  of  "  the  Etruscan 
stream  " — 

"  the  noble  river 
That  rolls  by  the  towers  of  Rome."' 

The  giant  Apennines  of  Sabina  loom  afar  off,  dim  through  the 
haz}'  noon  ;  and  the  nearer  Ciminian,  dark  with  its  once  dread 
forests,  stretches  its  triple-crested  mass  across  the  southern 
horizon.  Fertile  and  populous  was  the  country-,  numerous  and 
liotent  the  cities,  that  lay  beneath  the  confederate  princes  as  they 
sat  here  in  council ;  and  many  an  eye  in  the  wide  plain  would 
turn  hitherward  as  to  the  ark  of  national  safety.  The  warriors 
gathering  at  the  sacred  lake  in  defence  of  their  children's  homes 
and  fathers'  sepulchres,  would  look  to  the  great  goddess  for 
succour — the  augur  on  the  distant  arx  of  Tarquinii  or  Cosa, 
would  turn  to  her  shrine  for  a  propitious  omen — the  husbandman 
would  lift  his  eye  from  the  furrt)W,  and  invoke  her  blessing  on  his 
labours — and  the  mariner  on  the  bosom  of  the  far-off'  Tyrrhene 
would  catch  the  white  gleam  of  her  temple,  and  breathe  a  prayer 
for  safety  and  success. 

•"'  riiu.  X.  11.  II.  96.     It  is  saii_l  to  be  more  th;in  twentv-four  miles  in  circumference. 


D  2 


CHAPTER    XXXVII. 

OE^^ETO. 

Poco  portai  in  la  volta  la  testa, 

Che  mi  paire  veder  molte  alte  torri, 
Ond'  io  :   Jlaestro,  di',  die  terra  c  questa  ? — Dante. 

La  cith,  de  Orvieto  e  alta  e  strana. 

Questa  da'  Roumn  vechi  el  nome  prcse 
Che  andavan  li,  perche  laer  era  sana. 

FaCCIO    TtEGLI    UbERTI. 

The  last  Etruscan  site  in  tlie  great  central  plain  that  I  have  to 
describe  is  Orvieto,  which  lies  on  the  extreme  verge  of  the  plain 
to  the  north-east,  and  is  easily  reached  from  Florence  or  Eome, 
as  it  lies  on  the  direct  railway  between  those  capitals.  It  Avas  not 
always  so  accessible.  When  I  first  laiew  it,  the  nearest  points  to 
it  were  Bolsena,  nine  miles  distant,  and  Monte  Fiascone,  nearly 
eighteen ;  both  I'oads  being  carriageable.  On  one  occasion,  in 
default  of  a  better  mode  of  conveyance,  I  was  fain  to  make  the 
journey  on  an  ass,  with  another  for  mj'  luggage.  This  mode  of 
transit  is  pleasant  enough  in  a  fine  countr}-  and  fair  weather  ;  and 
in  Italy  one  sacrifices  no  dignity  by  such  a  montan'.  But  when 
nehulce  vialusque  Jiqnter  rule  the  heavens,  or  the  road  is  to  be 
travelled  witli  all  speed — preserve  me  from  the  pack-saddle  !  I 
cannot  then  exclaim — dcUciiun  est  as'inus .' — be  he  as  excellent  as 
any  of  sacred  or  profane  renown,  from  the  days  of  Balaam  to 
those  of  Apuleius  or  Joan  of  Arc,  or  even  as  Dapple  of  immortal 
memory.  Asses,  like  men,  are  creatures  of  habit.  Ofinnno  al 
sua  modo,  ed  il  sommaro  aW  (intico — "  Every  one  to  his  own 
way,  and  the  ass  to  the  old  way,"  sa^'S  one  proverb, — Trotto 
d'asino  non  dura  troppo — "  An  ass's  trot  never  lasts  too  long," 
says  another — both  of  which  I  verified  to  my  cost  on  this 
journe}' ;  for  though  the  rain  burst  from  the  sky  in  torrents, 
my  beasts  were  not  to  be  coaxed  out  of  their  wonted  deliberate 
pace,  consistent  with  the  transport  of  charcoal,  flour,  and  fire- 
wood, by  any  arguments  ad  liunhos  I  could  ofier;  and  I  had  no 


CIVITA    VI    UAGXA'.tEA 


CHAP.  XXXVII.]  CIMTA    DI    13AGXAREA.  39 

alternative  but  to  follow  their  example,  and  take  it  coolly  fur  the 
rest  of  the  journe}'. 

Between  Monte  Fiascone  and  Orvieto,  hut  <'onsidera])ly  to  the 
right  of  the  road,  lies  Bagnarea,  on  a  cliii-bound  liill,  about  eight 
miles  from  the  former  town.  Not  a  mile  beyond  is  anotber  still 
loftier  and  isolated  height,  called  "  Civita  " — a  name  which  in 
Italy  is  a  sure  clue  to  the  existence  of  habitation  in  ancient  times. 
This,  not  only  from  its  position,  shown  in  the  woodcut  at  page  37, 
but  from  tlie  luimerous  tombs  in  the  rocks  aroiuid,  and  the  ex- 
cavations made  in  the  neighbourhood,  has  been  recognised  as  an 
Etruscan  site,  though  its  ancient  name  is  quite  unknown.^  Its 
modern  ai)pellation  is  a  corruption  of  Balneum  liegis,  the  name 
it  bore  in  the  middle  ages,  i)robably  so-called  from  the  Bioman 
baths,  whose  remains  are  said  still  to  exist  in  the  valley  to  the 
north.  Though  the  hill  is  so  steep  and  strong  by  nature,  the 
rock  of  wliieh  it  is  composed  is  extremely  friable,  and  is  con- 
tinually' cruml)ling  away,  especiall}'  after  heavy  rains,  so  that  tlie 
inliabitants  have  now  almost  deserted  this  site  for  the  modern 
town  of  the  same  name." 

The  first  view  of  Orvieto  from  this  side  is  among  the  most  im- 
posing in  Ital}'.  The  road,  which  is  nearly  level  and  utterly 
barren  for  the  greater  part  of  the  way,  leads  unexpectedly  to  the 
verge  of  a  clili',  where  a  scene  magnificent  enough  to  compensate 
for  any  discomfort,  bursts  upon  the  view.  From  the  midst  of 
the  wide  and  deep  valley  at  my  feet,  rose,  about  two  miles 
distant,  an  isolated  height,  like  a  truncated  cone,  crowned  with 
the  towers  of  Orvieto.  The  sk}-  was  overcast,  the  atmosphere 
dense  and  mist}',  and  the  brilliant  hues  of  sunshine  were  wanting  ; 
3'et  the  grand  features  of  the  scene  were  visible  as  in  an  engraving. 
There  were  the  picturesque  convent-towers  embosomed  in  groves 
on  the  slopes  in  the  foreground — the  luxuriant  cultivation  of  the 
valley  beneath— the  Paglia  snaking  through  it,  spanned  by  its 
bridges — there  was  the  wide  stretch  of  the  cit}',  bristling  from  its 
broad  cliff-bound  rock,  in  the  centre  of  the  scene — the  background 
of  Apennines,  which  looming  through  vapour  and  cloud,  lost 
nothing  of  altitude   or  sublimit}- — and   the   whole   was   set  in  a 

'  Dempster  (II.  p.   413)  says  tluit  some  times  for  tlic   "intinite  virtues"  of  their 

liave  taken  Jiagnarea  for  tlie  Novempagi  of  procliiee,  especially  for  sculpture  ami  arclii- 

riiiiy  (III.  8).     But  tlii.s  is  mere  conjecture.  tcctural  decorations,  are  said  to  have  been 

We  have  no  clue  to  the  Etruscan  name  of  discovered  of  late  years  in  the  ncighljour- 

tliis  site.  hood  of  liagnarea,  between  that  town  and 

-  The  quarries,  called  by  Vitruvius  (II.  the    Lake    of    Jiolsena.      Canina,    Etruriii 

7)  "Anitiana',"  which  wei'e  famed  in  Konian  Marittima.  II.  p.  4(1. 


40  OEVIETO.  [CHAP.  XXXVII. 

fraiue-W(n-k  of  tall  precipices,  hung  with  woods,  and  with  many  a 
cataract  strndving  their  steeps — 

'•  A  pillar  of  white  liglit  upon  the  wall 
Of  purple  cliifs.  aloof  descried." 

But  why  attempt  to  describe  what  Turner  has  made  so  familiar? 

The  rock  on  which  Orvieto  stands  is  of  red  tufo,  scarped 
natm-ally  beneath  the  walls,  and  then  sinkin^j;  in  a  steep  slope 
into  the  valley  on  every  side.  This  is  the  extreme  verge  of  the 
tufo  district,  and  the  nature  of  the  ground  resembles  that  of  the 
northern  division  of  Etruria.  The  site  in  its  perfect  isolation 
differs  from  that  of  all  the  towns  in  the  volcanic  district,  Horta 
and  Sovana  excepted,  but  resembles  that  of  llusellre,  Saturnia,  or 
Cosa  ;  and  the  traveller  who  approaches  it  from  the  north,  will 
hail  the  rock  of  Orvieto  as  just  the  site  for  an  Etruscan  city. 

The  antiquity  of  Orvieto  is  implied  in  its  name,  a  corruption  of 
Urbs  Yetus.  But  to  its  original  appellation  we  have  as  yet  no  clue. 
The  general  opinion  of  antiquaries  has  marked  it  as  the  site  of 
Herbanum.^  Muller  broaches  the  opinion  that  this  l^rbs  Vetus 
was  no  other  than  the  "  old  city  "  of  A'olsinii,  which  was  des- 
troyed by  the  llomans  on  its  capture.^  ]>ut  the  distance  of  eight 
or  nine  miles  from  the  new  town,  Bolsena,  is  too  great  to  favour 
this  view.  Niebuhr^  suggests,  with  more  probability,  that  it 
may  be  the  site  of  Salpinum,  which  in  the  year  3G2  (n.c.  392) 
assisted  Yolsinii  in  her  war  with  Bome.'^ 

Unlike  most  Etruscan  sites,  ( )rvieto  does  not  retain  a  vestige 
of  its  ancient  walls.  It  has  even  been  asserted,  on  authority, 
that  the  city  was  not  originally  fortified.  It  is  now  however  girt 
by  walls  of  the  middle  ages,  and  has  a  fortress  to  boot.^ 

^  A  town  mentioned  by  Pliny  (III.  8)  iu  more   remote  than  YoLsinii  feems  evident 

hi.s  catalogue  of  colonies  in  Etruria.     The  from    the   fact    that    the  llomans  in   this 

similarity  of  the   first    syllable  can  alone  campaign  encountered  first  the  forces  of  the 

have  suggested  an   identity  with   Or\-ieto.  latter  city.     Tliat   Salpinum  was   of  con- 

Cluver    (II.    p.     553)    held    this    notion.  siderable  power  and  imi)ortance  is  shown 

Dempster  (II.  p.  409)  ridiculed  it.  by  its  association  with  Yolsinii,  one  of  tlie 

••  Etrusk.  I.  p.  451.     Orioli  (Nouv.  Ann.  Twelve.     Niebuhr  does  not  tlnnk   it   im- 

Instit.  183(),  p.  50)  holds  the  same  opinion  ;  probable  that   Salpinum   itself  was  one  of 

whicli  is  refuted  l)y  Bunsen,   IJull.   In.stit.  the  sovereign  states  of  Etruria   (loc.   cit,  ; 

1833,  p.  H<).     Beecke,  however,  in  his  new  cf.  I.  p.    V20).     And  tliat  it  was  .strongly 

edition   of  ]\Uiller  (I.  1,  5,  n.    56),   holds  fortified  by  nature  or  by  art  would  appear 

with  his  author,  that  Orvieto  is  the  ancient  from  the  security  its  citizens  felt  within 

Yolsinii.  their  walls — nuvnibus  armati  se  tutabantur 

^  Nieb.  Hist.   Rome,  II.  p.   493.     This  — and    from    the   fact   that    the    llomans, 

opinion  was  also  held  by  some  of  the  early  tliougli  they  ravaged  its  territory,  did  not 

Italian  antiquaries.  venture  to  attack  tlie  city. 

•"  Liv.  V.    ''>1,  32.      That  Salpinum  was  '   It  seems  never  to  have  been  doubted 


CHAP.  XXXVII.]      AVIIAT    WAS   ITS   ANCIENT   NAME? 


41 


Orvieto  seems  in  all  ages  to  have  been  recognised  as  an  ancient 
site,*^  but  that  it  was  Etruscan  lias  been  proved  only  within  this 
century  by  the  discovery  of  tombs  in  the  immediate  neighbour- 
hood ;  some  opened  nearly  fifty  years  since,  but  the  greater  part 
within  the  last  few  years.'^  For  forty  years  or  more  excavations 
were  suspended,  but  they  have  recently  been  resumed  at  Orvieto, 
and  with  great  success. 


that  it  is  Orvieto  which  is  spoken  of  by 
rrocoi)ius  (lie  IJell.  (lotii.  II.  20)  in  the 
si.xth  century  after  Clirist,  inuler  tlie  name 
of  Urliiventns — OupPi^fUTSs — an  a]>i)areiit 
corruption  of  Urbs  Yetu.s — as  being  be- 
sieged, and  captured  from  the  (ioths,  by 
Belisarius.  Yet  the  picture  he  dra'vws  of 
the  phice  is  so  far  from  accurate  as  to  render 
it  certain,  eitlier  that  lie  wrote  from  in- 
correct information,  or  that  he  did  not 
refer  to  Orvieto.  He  says: — "A  certain 
height  rises  alone  from  the  hollow,  smooth 
and  level  aliove,  precipitous  below.  This 
heiglit  is  surrounded  by  rocks  of  ei|^ual 
altitude,  not  quite  close,  Imt  about  a  stone's 
throw  distant.  On  this  height  the  ancients 
built  the  city,  not  girdling  it  with  walls  or 
any  other  defences,  for  the  place  seemed  to 
them  to  be  naturally  impregnable.  For 
there  hajjpens  to  ]>e  but  one  entrance  to  it 
from  the  (neighbouring)  heights,  which 
approach  lieing  guarded,  the  inhabitanls 
thereof  feared  no  hostile  attack  from  any 
other  quarter.  For  save  in  the  spot  where 
nature  formed  the  approach  to  the  city,  as 
has  been  stated,  a  river  ever  great  and  im- 
passable lies  between  the  height  of  the  city 
and  the  rocks  just  mentioned."  Cluver 
(II.  p.  553)  and  Mannert  (Geog.  p.  -lotj) 
pronounce  this  to  l)e  a  most  accurate  de- 
scription of  Orvieto.  It  is  evident  that 
neither  had  visited  the  spot.  It  would  be 
impossible  to  give  a  truer  description — 
except  as  regards  the  size  of  the  river — of 
Nepi,  Civita  Ca.stellana,  Pitigliano,  and 
many  other  P^truswin  sites  in  the  TolcaiKc 
district;  but  it  is  not  at  all  characteristic  ol 
Orvieto,  whose  complete  isolation,  caused  by 
the  absence  of  the  usual  istlimus,  is  its  dis- 
tinctive feature,  and  from  which  the  nearest 
of  the  .surrounding  heights  can  hardly  be 
le.ss  than  a  mile  distant.  The  description 
seems  to  lie  written  by  one  familiar  with 
the  spot ;  and  this  contirms  me  in  the  opi- 
nion that  it  is  not  Orvieto  to  which  it  refers. 
The   fact  stated   by  Trocopius  that   the 


founders  of  Urbiventus  raised  no  fortifica- 
tions, being  satisfied  with  the  natural  jiro- 
tection  of  the  steep  cliffs  on  whicli  it  stood — - 

ExcelsR^    rupi    imi)0situm    sine    mwuibus 
nil  is — 

is  jjarticularly  worthy  of  notice.  For,  if 
true,  it  will  exjdain  the  alisence  of  all 
vestiges  of  ancient  walling  around  certain 
Etruscan  sites — Sorano,  for  instance,  and 
Nejji,  where  the  narrow  isthmus  alone 
seems  to  liave  been  fortified  ;  and  also 
opens  room  fur  speculation  on  the  extent  of 
the  ancient  walls  on  Etruscan  sites  in 
general.  Yet  we  find  remains  of  ancient 
fortifiaitions  on  heights  utterly  inaccessible, 
as  at  Civita  Castellana,  and  must  conclude 
that  in  such  instances  at  least,  the  cities, 
however  strong  by  nature,  were  comjiletely 
girt  with  walls. 

**  Monaldo  Monaldeschi  of  Cervara,  wlio 
in  158i  wrote  Historical  Commentaries  on 
Orvieto,  states  that  "on  the  rock  of  the 
city  therearequarriesof  sand  ai\d2MZzolaiui, 
and  likewise  subterranean  roads  hewn  in 
the  rock  in  ancient  times,  which  lead  from 
one  jiart  of  the  city  to  another.  Caves  also, 
ninning  under  ground,  where  wine  is  jjre- 
seiwed  most  fresh"  (lib.  II.  p.  15).  By 
these  roads  lie  evidently  means  the  rock- 
hewn  sewers,  common  on  Etruscan  sites  in 
the  volcanic  district.  The  caves  were 
probably  tombs  in  the  slopes  beneath  the 
walls.  For  he  elsewhere  (lib.  I.  p.  3)  states 
that  "many  sepulchres  are  found  con- 
tinually, of  i)agans  and  Greeks  (i.e.  Etrus- 
cans), with  vases  of  black  earth  fashioned 
in  sundry  ways,  and  with  divere  figures, 
and  other  beautiful  things,  whereof  many 
are  to  be  seen  in  the  Archivio  of  the  city." 

'•'  For  notices  of  the  excavations  made  on 
this  site  at  the  former  period,  see  IJull. 
Instit.  18-29,  p.  11  ;  1830,  p.  244  ;  1831, 
pp.  33-37  ;  1832,  p.  21(i  ;  1833,  p.  93 
ft  xi'j. — Buusen  ;  Ann.  Instit.  1834,  j).  83. 
— IJunsen. 


42  OEYIETO.  [chap,  xxxvii. 

In  1871,  at  the  foot  of  the  cliU's  beneath  the  city  to  the  north, 
at  a  spot  called  '"  Crocitisso  del  Tufo,"  a  most  interesting 
necropolis  was  brought  to  light,  unlike  any  other  hitherto  found 
in  Etruria.  The  tombs  here  disinterred  nre  not  hollowed  in  the 
rocks,  as  in  most  sites  in  the  southern  districts  of  the  land,  but 
the}'  are  constructed  of  massive  masonry,  and  arranged  side  by 
side,  and  back  to  back,  exactly  like  houses  in  a  town,  forming 
blocks  of  tombs,  instead  of  residences,  each  tomb  having  its 
doorway  closed  by  a  slab  of  stone,  and  the  name  of  its  occupant 
graven  in  large  Etruscan  characters  on  its  lintel.  These  blocks 
of  tombs  are  separated  by  streets  crossing  each  other  at  right 
angles,  so  that  we  have  here  a  veritable  "  cit}'  of  the  dead."  The 
inisonry  is  of  the  local  red  tufo,  in  large  rectangular  masses, 
generally  isodomon,  and  always  without  cement.  Enter  an}'  of 
the  tombs  and  you  see  at  a  glance  that  they  are  of  high  antiquity. 
They  are  about  11  or  12  feet  deep,  6  or  7  wide,  and  9  feet  high; 
constructed  of  very  neat  masonry ;  for  the  three  lowest  courses 
the  walls  are  upright,  but  above  that  the  courses  project  on 
either  side,  and  gradually  converge  till  they  meet  in  the  centre 
in  a  flat  course,  forming  a  primitive  sort  of  vault,  exactl}'  like 
that  in  the  Kegulini-Galassi  tomb  at  Cervetri,  save  that  the  faces 
<tf  the  blocks  within  the  tomb  are  not  hewn  to  a  curve,  so  as  to 
resemble  a  Gothic  arch,  as  in  that  celebrated  sepulchre,  but  the 
angles  of  the  projecting  blocks  are  simply  bevelled  ofl'.  These 
tombs  evidently  date  from  before  the  invention  of  the  arch  in 
Etruria,  and  therefore,  in  all  probabilit}',  are  earlier  than  the 
foundation  of  Iiome.  Some  of  them  are  quite  empty ;  others 
retain  a  rude  bench  formed  of  slabs  on  which  the  corpse  was  laid. 
Though  the  block  of  sepulchres  is  a})parently  one  mass  of 
masonry,  each  tomb  is  reall}-  of  distinct  construction,  and  can 
be  removed  without  disturbing  its  neighbours.  Each  terminates 
above  in  a  high  wall  of  slabs,  which  fences  it  in  like  a  parapet, 
and  keeps  it  distinct,  inclosing  the  roof  as  in  a  pit.  Across  this 
inclosure  stretches  the  masonry  which  roofs  in  the  tomb,  in  a 
double  flight  of  stone  steps  meeting  in  the  middle  in  the  narrow 
ridge  which  tops  the  whole.  On  this  ridge  or  by  its  side,  stood 
a  stela  or  cippm  of  stone,  shaped  in  general  like  a  pine-cone  or 
a  cui)ola ;  some  of  them  bore  inscriptions,  and  it  was  observed 
that  when  this  was  the  case,  the  epitaph  over  the  doorway  was 
jdways  wanting.^  llie  woodcut  opposite,  taken  from  a  pliotograph, 
gives  a  general  view  of  this  necropolis. 

^  TLcKc  c'}iiii  are  very  ninnerous,  and  of  various  forms — not  a  few  phallic. 


CHAP.  XXXVII.]  MANCINI'S    EXCAVATIOXS.  io 

The  doors  of  the  tombs  are  tall,  narrow  and  witliout  arolii- 
tectural  decoration,  not  having  even  the  Egyptian  or  Doric  form 
so  common  in  other  Etruscan  cemeteries.  The  insciiptions  are 
very  peculiar,  not  so  much  in  the  form  of  the  characters — 
although  there  are  points  in  which  they  differ  from  those  found 
on  better  known  Etruscan  sites — as  in  the  epitaphs  themselves, 
which  are  written  without  the  usual  divisions  into  words,  contain 
few  proper  names  that  are  familiar  to  the  student  of  the  Etruscan 
language,  and  fail  to  set  forth  in  the  usual  manner  the  family 
relations  and  connexions,  with  the  sex  and  age,  of  the  deceased. 
They  have  all,  moreover,  the  peculiarity  of  commencing  with  the 
word  "Mi."- 

I  am  not  aware  tliat  these  inscriptions  have  been  published, 
and  I  will  therefore  give  some  of  them  in  Iloman  letters. — In  the 
street  shown  in  the  woodcut  there  are  four  epitaphs,  vi/  : — 

MIMAMARKESTEETHELIES3 

MILAUCHUSIESLATIXIES 

MIMAMARKESTRIASXAS 

MILARTHIASRUPIXAS 

In  tlie  street  parallel  to  this,  behind  the  tombs  in  the  fore- 
ground of  the  Avoodcut,  twelve  sepulchres  have  been  disinterred, 
seven  on  one  hand,  and  five  on  the  oilier.  The  following  are  the 
inscriptions  that  are  legible  : — 

MIARATHIAAR      THENAS 


MILARIKESTELATHURASSUTIII^ 


MIVELELIASA      RMINAIA 

MILARISATLA      SINAS 


MIAVILESSASUXAS 

311 M AM ARKESI    /AVIATE 


M I T II U  KER//7/S  AR////ES 

MILARTHIAIAMAXAS 

2  Miiller  (I.   p.    451)    takes   the   initial  ^  Mamarkes   must    lie    Maincvciis,    the 

"Mi  "in  such  sepulchral   inscriptions  as  name  of   a  very  ancient  Konian  family  of 

these,  to  be  the   first  person  of  the  verb  the  Gens  ^'Emilia,  which  claimed  its  origin 

substantive,  equivalent  to  el/xi,  and  points  from  Mamcrcus,   tlie  son  of  Numa.     The 

cut  that  it  always  precedes  a  proper  name,  name  is  Oscan,  and  derived  from  ^Mamers, 

which    appears   from    its    termination    in  the  Oscan,  or,  as  Yarro  calls  it,  the  Sabine, 

"s,"  to  be  in  the  genitive.     Hj  considers  appellation  of  ^lars.     Cf.  Deeckc's  Miiller, 

all    these    inscriptions    commencing   with  I.  \t.  4f!7. 

"Mi,"  to  be  Tyrrhene,  and  not  Eti-uscan.  ^  Lakikes   must  be  equivalent   to  the 


46  ORVIETO.  [cHAr.  xxxvii. 

A  little  to  the  east  of  the  tombs  shown  in  the  woodcut,  or  to 
the  left  of  the  spectator,  is  a  deep  pit,  containing  two  sepulchres, 
facing  each  other  at  a  great  depth  below  the  surface.  They  bear 
these  inscriptions  on  their  lintels  : 

MILARTHIAlirLCHEXASVELTHURUSKLES 


MILARTHIASTRAMENAS 

The  above  will  sufiice  to  show  that  these  are  very  unlike  the 
Etruscan  sepulchral  inscriptions  of  Corneto,  Chiusi,  Perugia,  or 
Yolterra. 

The  contents  of  these  tombs  confirm  the  antiquity  suggested 
by  their  style  of  construction.  A  few  though  not  important 
specimens  of  httcchero — the  early  black  ware  with  reliefs — were 
found  here,  together  Avith  some  painted  vases  of  very  archaic 
style ;  some  articles  in  bronze,  but  no  mirrors,  or  anything  that 
marked  an  advanced  period  of  art ;  a  si:>ear-head  with  its  sauroter 
or  but-end,  both  of  iron  ;  and  a  few  ornaments  in  gold,  of  which 
a  large  circular  brooch  was  the  most  remarkable.  In  these  house- 
like tombs  the  dead  were  almost  invariabl}'  buried;  traces  of 
cremation  being  extremely  rare.  So  far  as  I  could  leai'n, 
nothing  has  been  found  in  these  sepulchres  of  so  late  a  date  as 
500  15.C. 

Signor  Pdccardo  INIancini,  the  happy  man  who  owns  these 
tombs,  and  who  carries  on  excavations  here  throughout  the 
winter,  informs  me  that  he  has  found  sepulchres  of  other  descrii^- 
tions  in  the  neighbourhood — some  constructed  of  slabs,  in  two 
small  chambers,  whicli  must  be  of  later  date  than  the  house- 
tombs,  and  these  always  contain  the  most  beautiful  painted  vases. 
He  has  discovered  no  figured  mirrors,  though  such  articles  are 
occasionally  brought  to  light  in  tliis  necropolis.  Most  of  the 
vases  are  of  the  second,  or  Archaic  Greek,  style,  and  very  large 
and  fine  they  often  are,  although  rarely  found  in  an  unbroken 
state.     The  dnipliora  is  the  most  common  form. 

Most  of  the  i)roduce  of  ]Mancini's  pickaxe  is  now  stored  in  the 
Palace  of  the  Conte  dellaFaina,  facing  the  Duomo — a  gentleman 
Avhose  patriotism  and  good  taste  have  urged  him  at  a  great  expense 
to  make  a  collection  of  tlie  anti(|uities  discovered  in  the  vicinity 
of  his  native   t(jwn,  and  whose   courtesy  leaves   it  at   all  times 

Larcius   or    Lartins   of   tlie   Romans,    tlio  dictator,     were     ilistinguisheil     nicmljcrs. 

ancient  patrician  Gens,  of  wliicli   Spurius  Dionysius  writes  the  name  AapKLos,  which 

Lartius,   who   kejit    the    Suljlician    hridge  is  very  near  the   Etruscan.     Cf.  Deecke's 

with  lloratius,  and  Titus  Lartius,  the  first  Miiller,  I,  p.  4C2. 


CHAP.  XXXVII.]         THE    LA    FAIXA    COLLECTIOX.  47 

accessible  to  strangers.  I  sliould  state  tliat  liis  collection  is  not 
confined  to  the  rohd,  of  Orvieto,  but  contains  also  many  articles 
from  Chiusi,  and  other  Etruscan  sites. 

First  Boom. — Small  ash-chests  of  terra  cotta,  principally  from 
Chiusi ;  -with  ordinary  ware. 

Second  Jloom. — JUack  vases  with  reliefs,  some  of  archaic  cha- 
racter ;  others  of  very  elegant  forms  but  of  much  later  date ; — 
some  Avith  a  high  lustre,  from  Castel  (Horgio,  a  site  two  miles 
from  Orvieto,  on  the  road  to  Viterbo.  ]>ron/,es  of  various  descrip- 
tions, lamps,  masks,  and  small  figures  in  terra  cotta.  Beads  of 
glass  and  amber,  and  Egyptian  figures  in  smalt,— all  found  at 
Orvieto. 

ThirdEoom. — Ih'icchcro.  A  portion  of  this  pottery  from  Orvieto; 
the  rest  from  Ohiusi ;  including  two  tall  cock-crowned  vases. 

Fourth  Ilooin. — Figiu-ed  vases,  chiefly  l.-yl'tkes,  or  drinking-bowls, 
with  both  black  and  yellow  figures,  but  the  latter  in  the  severe 
archaic  style  of  the  former.     Many  with  eyes. 

Fifth  Eoom. — I'igured  pottery.  Here  are  examples  of  almost 
every  style  from  the  early  olpe  with  bands  of  animals  and 
chimajras,  in  the  so-called  I^abylonian  style,  down  to  the  black 
lustred' vases  with  floral  decorations,  in  white  and  gold,  of  the 
second  century  is.c.  Among  the  vases  the  following  are  most 
noteworthy  : — 

A  kclchc  Avitli  archaic  figures  in  various  colours,  like  the  pottery- 
of  Corinth.  An  (tinpJioni  in  coarse  red  ware  with  archaic  figures 
painted  on  it  in  white  outlines  !  Some  good  specimens  of  the 
Archaic  Greek  style,  among  which  is  an  admirable  Ji/jdria  with 
warriors  in  a  qii(idri;i<i,  contending  with  hopJitcc  on  foot.  LeLi/thi 
with  black  figures  on  a  white  ground,  rarely  found  in  Etruria. 
Two  stanml  in  the  Third  Style, — INIinerva  overcoming  a  Giant, 
andPeleus  carrying  off  Thetis.  A  few  amphoroi  of  very  fine  ware 
like  that  of  Nola  ;  and  others  in  the  florid  careless  style  of  Magna 
Gnecia.  Perhaps  the  gem  of  the  collection  is  an  amphora  \<\i\\ 
red  figures,  but  in  a  severe  style  of  art,  representing  Hercules 
concpiering  the  Amazons,  very  similar  in  treatment  and  style,  as 
well  as  in  subject,  to  the  celebrated  vase  in  the  Museum  of 
Arezzo.  Two  vases  unpainted,  with  figured  handles  in  imitation 
of  bronze.  Vases  of  this  description  have  been  found  in  the 
necropolis  of  Orvieto,  retaining  traces  of  the  silver  leaf  witli 
Avhich  they  were  originally  coated.  They  so  closely  resemble  in 
style  others  found  in  Apulia,  some  of  which  have  evidently  been 
gilt,  as  to  have  given  rise  to  the  opinion  that  they  must  be  impor- 


4S  ORVIETO.  [CHAP.  XXXVII. 

tations  from  that  purt  of  Italy,  where  imitations  of  gokl  and  silver 
vases  in  terra-cotta  are  not  unfreqnent." 

Sixth  Room. — Coins  and  jewellery. — Among  the  gold  ornaments 
is  a  pair  of  large  earrings  from  Castel  Giorgio,  and  a  smaller  but 
very  elaborately  wrought  pair,  from  ^lancini's  excavations  at  the 
Crocifisso  del  Tufo. 

In  the  Opera  del  Duomo,  adjoining  the  Palazzo  della  Faina, 
are  a  few  Etruscan  terra-cottas  well  worthy  of  notice.  Among 
them  is  an  alto  rilievo  of  a  man,  about  three  feet  high.  Five 
masks,  male  and  female,  coloured,  very  archaic  and  (piaint,  yet 
full  of  life.  A  female  figure  seated,  headless  and  broken.  A 
large  gnrnone'wn  coloured  to  tlie  life. 

The  Etruscan  antiquities  of  Orvieto  are  not  all  within  or  im- 
mediateh'  around  the  town.  The  necropolis  of  the  ancient  city 
•extended  across  the  deep  intervening  valley  to  the  crest  of  the 
loft}"  table-land  Avhich  arises  to  the  south-west.  On  this  elevated 
plateau  is  a  natural  mound  called  Poggio  del  Roccolo,  which  may 
l)e  hardly  three  miles  from  Orvieto  as  the  crow  flies,  and  thus  is 
accessible  on  foot  in  about  an  hour,  though  it  takes  double  that 
time  or  more  to  drive  to  it  by  the  high  road.  For  you  have  to  take 
the  road  to  Viterbo,  across  the  wide  and  deep  valle}',  ascending  to 
the  very  brow  of  the  heights  opposite  those  on  which  the  cit}' 
stands,  and  then  to  double  back  to  the  Poggio  del  Poccolo.  Here 
in  1863  Signor  Domenico  Golini  of  Bagnarea  made  excavations 
in  a  chestnut  wood,  and  opened  a  number  of  tombs  l\-ing  in  tiers 
on  the  hill  slope.  Two  of  them,  in  the  higher  part  of  the  hillock, 
had  paintings  on  their  walls,  and  one,  for  the  novelty  and  interest 
of  the  subjects  depicted,  as  well  as  for  the  excellence  of  the  art 
exhibited,  yields  to  none  of  the  painted  tombs  ^'et  discovered  at 
Corneto  or  Cliiusi.  The  keys  of  these  sepulchres  are  kept  b}' 
Filomela  Tonelli,  who  lives  at  a  village  some  miles  from  Orvieto, 
and  the  traveller  should  give  her  some  hours'  notice  of  his  in- 
tention to  visit  the  tombs,  or  he  ma}'  make  a  fruitless  journey  to 
the  spot.** 

These  tombs  are  entered  by  long  level  passages  cut  in  the 
slope.     The  less  important  of  the  two  may  be  designated  the 

TOMBA   DELLE    DUE    BiCVHE. 

On  the  very  threshold  you  encounter  figures  from  the  Etruscan 

•*  Ann.  Inst.   1871,  pp.   5 — 27  (Klueg-       hjUkes  of  this  description  made  at  Naucra- 
mann).      Mon.    Inst.    IX.    tav.    26,    tav.       tis  on  the  Nile, 
■d'agg.  A.B.C.   Athenffius  (XI.  61)  spealjs  of  ^  At  Slancini's  scavl  you  will  find  a  man, 


I^/.. 


^i^'^.- 


1:1  '^B^ -g^; 


?. : : 


'■^L^^i 


'\::  M 


«?>-i. 


'  '^f .» 


^^^ 


CHAP.  xxxvii.J  TOMBA    DKLLE    DUE    BIGHE.  51 

spirit-world;  on  tlio  I'ight  door-post  Charun,  witli  Iduisli  flesh  and 
yellow  wings,  ])randishes  a  snake  to  keep  out  intruders  ;  opposite 
him  stands  a  demon  of  douhtful  gender,  with  yellow  pinions.  A 
step  within  the  tomh  hrings  you  hacdc  to  miuidane  scenes.  On 
each  side  of  the  door  is  a  hii/d,  drav.n  by  horses  of  contrasted 
colours — red  and  gre}' — the  darker  hue  throwing  out  the  lighter. 
The  steeds  are  well  proportioned  and  full  of  spirit :  they  have  broad 
bands  about  their  necks,  by  which  they  are  attached  to  the  pole. 
'I'he  (tnr'ujd  who  drives  the  car  to  the  lefc  of  the  door  is  clad  in  a 
white  tunic  with  a  broad  red  meander  border,  and  wears  his  hair 
twisted  on  his  crown  into  a  high  peak,  like  a  tnfiilii^.  These 
Ji'r/rr  probably  indicate  the  chariot-races  which  were  held  in 
honour  of  the  deceased.  Both  the  aurlfice  had  Etruscan  inscrip- 
tions attached,  now  scarcely  legible.  In  the  pediment  over  the 
door  a  pair  of  huge  bearded  serpents  are  depicted  in  threatening 
attitudes.  Similar  reptiles  appear  to  have  occupied  the  opposite 
pediment.  The  figures  wdiich  adorned  the  wall  below  them  are 
well-nigh  obliterated ;  yet  in  one  corner  you  can  distinguish  the 
lower  limbs  of  two  warriors  wearing  greaves,  one  of  them  with  a 
shield  also  :  and  in  the  other,  two  helmeted  heads,  with  an 
inscription  between  them — "  S.\Tnr.A.  Tiialtaz  " 

The  scenes  on  the  side-walls  have  been  wofuUy  injured,  yet 
enough  remains  to  give  an  idea  of  their  decorations.  The  wall 
to  the  right  w^as  occupied  b}'  three  banqueting-couches  covered 
with  rich  drapery,  each  having  the  usual  hiipopodhim,  or  long 
footstool,  beneath  it,  on  which  stands  a  pair  of  pigeons,  and  in 
one  instance  a  pair  of  sandals  also.  Two  only  of  the  revellers 
have  been  spared ;  both  3^oung  men,  crowned  with  laurel,  and 
draped  in  white  pallia,  which  leave  the  upper  half  of  their  bodies 
bare.  They  appear  to  be  engaged  in  conversation,  and  j-our  e3'e 
is  struck  with  the  animated  expression  of  their  countenances,  and 
the  ease  and  elegance  of  their  attitudes.  Their  names  are 
recorded  on  the  wall. 

The  festivities  were  continued  on  the  opposite  wall,  for  one- 
half  of  it  was  occupied  by  two  similar  couches ;  the  other  half  b}' 
a  band  of  musicians.  Of  the  revellers  nothing  remains  but  two 
lieads,  both  fillet-bound  ;  one  that  of  a  man,  the  other,  witli 
golden  hair  and  fair   complexion,  belongs   to   a   woman,  named 

Giampaolo  Pasqualone,  who  will  comrauni-  ■will  meet  you  at  the  spot  where  you  are 
cate  with  the  said  Filomena,  and,  if  re-  oUiged  to  leave  your  carriage,  and  will  con- 
quired,  will  guide  you  on  foot  to  these  duct  you  thence  to  the  Poggio,  a  good  half- 
tombs.     If  you  t;xke  the  high-road,  Filomela       mile  distant. 

E  2 


52  OR'STETO.  [cuap.  xxxvii. 

"  TnANTKViL,"  or  Tanaquil.  Her  partner  is  quite  obliterated, 
but  his  name,  "  Vel  Cneius,''  is  recorded  on  the  wall.  At  the 
foot  of  the  coucli  stands  a  man  pla^-ing  a  heptachord  lyre.  He 
is  followed  b\'  a  boy  cupbearer ;  then  by  four  cornicines,  or 
trumpeters,  two  Avith  long  straiglit  Uttii,  curved  at  the  end  ;  the 
others  Avith  circular  trumpets — both  instruments  of  Etruscan 
invention.'  All  are  draped  in  white,  but  not  a  figure  is  perfect. 
Fortunately  the  heads  are  preserved.  Over  the  procession  is 
the  epigraj)!!  "Presxthe.""^  In  general  cliaracter  this  in'ocession 
bears  a  strong  resemblance  to  that  in  the  now  closed  Grotta 
Bruschi  at  Corneto,  the  cliief  difference  being  that  this  appears  to 
be  a  scene  from  the  upper  world,  while  that  was  a  procession  of 
souls  in  tlie  Etruscan  Orcus. 

The  other  painted  tomb  almost  adjoins,  and  is  called  after  its 
discoverer, 

TOMBA    GOLINI. 

It  is  about  17  feet  square  and  9  feet  liigli,  and  is  divided  into  two 
chambers  by  a  partition-wall  of  rock.  It  liad  paintings  on  its 
doorjiosts,  but  they  are  almost  obliterated.  You  still  see  the 
head  and  shoulders  of  a  man  witli  a  crook  in  his  hand,  and  on 
the  opposite  wall,  two  bristling  snakes  with  a  small  door-mat 
between  them — the  remains  probably  of  Cliarun,  or  some  other 
Etruscan  demon,  who  has  vanished  from  the  wall,  leaving  only 
his  hairy  scalp  to  mark  the  place  he  once  occupied. 

If  on  entering  the  tomb  you  turn  to  the  left,  you  are  startled 
by  the  carcass  of  a  huge  red  ox,  suspended  from  a  beam  in  the 
ceiling,  while  his  freslil}'  severed  head,  painted  to  the  life,  lies  on 
the  ground  below.  Hanging  b.y  its  side  are  a  hare  and  a  deer 
between  a  brace  of  pigeons,  and  another  of  fowls,  suspended  by 
their  beaks.  This  is  apparently  a  butcher's  and  poulterer's  shop, 
yet  the  trees  show  it  to  be  out  of  doors  ;  or  it  may  be  a  larder 
stocked  for  the  funeral  feast,  which  is  represented  on  the  other 
walls  of  the  tomb. 

On  the  wall  adjoining  you  see  half  a  dozen  figures  busied  with 
prei)arations  for  tlie  feast,  all  with  their  names  attached.  Close 
to  the  larder  a  luilf-clad  youth,  with  gestures  indicative  of  great 

"  Athenaus  (iv.  82)  tells  us  that  both  toiiiljs,  takes  this  word  to  be  equivalent  to 

curved  and  straight  trumijets — Kfpara  re  the    Apparitor   of  the  llonians,      Pitturc 

Koi  <T6.\-niyyfs — were  the  invention  of  the  Murali,   p.   22,  tav.  1-3  ;  cf.   Bull.  Inst. 

Jitruscans.  1863,  p.  50  (Hrunn.)  for  a  description  of 

'^  The  Count  (iiancarlo  Conestabile,  who  this  tomb  on  its  first  discovery. 
has  given  a  detailed  description  of  these 


CHAP,  xxxvii.]  TOMBA    GOLIXI.  53 

exertion,  is  clioi)})ing  a  mass  of  flesh  on  a  low  bench  or  bh)ck. 
Tlien  comes  a  series  of  four  tripod  tables,  resting  on  decrs'  legs, 
and  on  each  is  a  large  pomegranate  with  eggs  and  bunches  of 
grapes.  Four  domestics  or  slaves — two  of  each  sex — are  busied 
in  various  waj'S  at  the  tables.  One  of  the  males  is  nude,  the  other, 
who  plays  the  double-pipes,  is  half-draped.  The  women  wear  tight 
yellow  jackets  with  short  sleeves  ;  one  has  a  white  gown  also  ; 
the  other,  who  seems  a  superior  servant,  wears  a  white  h'niiatioii, 
or  mantle,  over  her  shoulder.  Both  have  necklaces  of  gold  ;  and 
the  latter,  red  earrings  also,  of  quaint  form.  Their  flesh,  like 
that  of  all  the  women  in  this  tomb,  is  a  pale  red,  while  that  of 
the  males  is  of  a  much  deeper  hue.  In  the  corner  next  the 
snhiilo,  a  slave,  with  a  yellow  cloth  about  his  loins,  is  kneading  or 
grinding  at  a  concave  tripod  table,  which  has  a  small  lip  towards 
the  spectator.  He  holds  in  each  hand  an  instrument  like  that 
now^  used  for  grinding  colours ;  but  what  his  precise  occupation 
may  be  is  not  eas}'  to  determine,  although  his  surroundings  show 
that  in  some  Avay  or  other  he  is  aiding  the  preparations  for  the 
feast. 

On  the  inner  wall  of  this  chamber  we  have  a  representation  of 
the  kitchen.  A  large  scjuare  furnace  or  stove,  with  open  door, 
is  the  principal  object,  in  front  of  which  stand  two  deep  jars, 
jirobably  full  of  water.  Lord  of  the  furnace,  and  lialf-hidden 
behind  it,  stands  the  cook,  brandishing  aloft  a  red  chopper,  and 
watching,  the  while,  the  culinary  process  going  forward  in  two 
deep  iron  bowls,  the  bottoms  of  which,  licked  b}'  the  flames,  are 
seen  through  the  oj)en  door.  On  one  side  his  assistant,  Avith  a 
cloth  about  his  loins,  is  stooping  as  he  approaches  the  furnace, 
stretching  forward  one  hand  with  a  long  spoon  or  dipper,  Avhile 
lie  screens  his  face  from  the  heat  with  the  other.  But  the  most 
startling  features  in  this  scene  are  two  symbols  over  the  furnace- 
door  ^  commonly  used  by  the  ancients  to  avert  the  evil  eye,  but 
which  seem  strangely  out  of  place  here,  unless  this  Jasc'imim  was 
a  customary  device  of  Etruscan  cooks  to  secure  success  in  their 
operations. 

On  the  partition-wall  adjoining,  so  far  as  we  can  judge  from  the 
scanty  fragments  of  the  scene  that  are  left,  similar  preparations 
for  the  banquet  were  in  progress  :  but  the  table  in  the  centre 
covered  with  cups  and  bowls,  and  the  lehane  held  by  the  slave 
behind  it,  suggest  that  here  was  represented  the  depository  of 

'  At  rompeii  the  same  symbol  lias  been  found  in  a  similar  position — over  an  oven 
attached  to  the  House  of  Pansa. 


54  ORYIETO.  [CHA)'.  xxxvir. 

the  ^Yines,  or,  as  we  slioiild  say,  the  butler'a  paiitrv.  Two  men's 
heads  and  one  foot  are  the  onl}'  other  fragments  on  this  wall ;  who 
they  were,  and  what  they  were  about,  is  dt)ubtless  set  forth  in  the 
inscriptions  over  their  heads. ^ 

The  busy  scene  of  preparation  ft)r  the  banquet  in  this  half  of 
the  tomb  brinies  forcibly  to  mind  those  curious  lines  preserved 
by  Athemeus,-  of  which  we  essay  a  translation  : — 

"  And  all  the  folks  tlirougliout  tlie  house 
Are  now  preparing  tlie  carouse — ■ 
Are  busy  plucking,  mixing,  baking. 
Cutting,  chopping,  meiTV-niaking, 
Kneading,  feeding,  sporting,  laughing. 
Skipping,  lipping,  flirting,  quaffing, 
Joking,  poking,  singing,  dancing, 
All  to  sounds  of  flutes  entrancing. 
Cassia,  myrrh,  and  choice  perfumes — 
Nard  and  incense,  fill  the  rooms. 
And  such  odours  from  the  kitchen 
Of  the  meats  the  house  is  rich  in  !  " 

The  narrow  front  of  the  i)artition-wall,  facing  the  door  of  the 
tomb,  was  not  left  without  decoration.  Here  a  monkey  is  de- 
picted climbing  a  j^ole  surmounted  by  a  small  vase.  A  cord 
attached  to  one  leg  was  held  by  a  man  of  whom  nothing  remains 
but  the  hand.^ 

The  partition-wall  marks  the  separation  between  the  two  classes 
of  subjects  dei)icted  in  this  tomb.  In  the  half  already  described, 
we  have  the  prei:)arations  for  the  feast ;  we  look  into  the  larder, 
the  pantry,  the  kitchen,  the  butler's  pantry,  and  jjerhaiis  the 
cellar.  In  the  remaining  half  Ave  see  the  passage  of  a  haj^py 
soul  into  the  other  world,  and  the  bliss  of  the  departed,  repre- 
sented b}'  their  festive  enjoyments  in  the  presence  of  the  great 
King  and  Queen  of  Hades. 

As  on  entering  this  tomb  we  began  with  the  wall  to  the  left  of 
the  door,  so  now  we  must  begin  with  the  wall  to  the  right. 

The  space  is  occupied  by  a  handsome  hig<t,  drawn  b}'  a  pair  of 
pale  red  horses,  and  driven  by  a  fair-haired  youth,  wearing  a 
laurel  crown,  and  wrapt  in  a  white  mantle  bordered  with  red,  one 
of  the  many  illustrations  of  the  togd  prcdcxta,  which  the  Ilomans 

'  AH  the  iiiscriiitidiis   in   this  toiiil),  so  p.  G(])  takes  the  pole  for  a  sepulchral  stele, 

far  as  tliey  are  legible,  are  given  hy  15niini,  and  attaches  a  symbolic    meaning   to  the 

r.ull.  Inst.  1863,  pp.   41-.')(>,  and  also  by  monkey;  but  to  me   it  appears  more  na- 

Count  Conestabile,  in  his  Pitture  Murali.  tural  to  regard  this  scene  as  a  mere  freak 

-  Athen.  IX.  67.      From  the  Hijipotro-  of  the  artist,  introduced  to  till  an  awkward 

]il)os,  or  "Ilorsebreeder,"  of  Mnesiniachos.  space. 

'  Count    Conestabile    (I'itturc    Jlurali, 


56  OEYIETO.  [CHAP,  xxxvii. 

received  from  the  Etruscans.*  B}'  his  side  runs  a  female  genius 
or  Lasa,  with  bluish  wings,  with  which  she  overshadows  at  once 
the  youth  and  his  steeds,  and  with  a  pair  of  knotted  serpents 
springing  in  threatening  attitudes  from  her  waist. -^  Yet  slie  is  no 
e\T.l  demon,  but  evidently  a  good  spirit,  for  she  is  handsome,  with 
fair  complexion  and  hair,  has  an  amiable  expression,  and  shows 
her  sympathy  with  humanity  in  her  decorations,  wearing  a  neck- 
lace, trident-earrings,  and  snake-bracelets,  all  of  gold.  "Without 
her,  this  scene  might  indicate  the  chariot-races  held  in  lionom*  of 
the  dead,  but  her  presence  proves  it  to  represent  the  passage  of 
the  soul  to  the  unseen  world.  In  her  right  hand  she  holds  up  a 
scroll,  the  record  of  the  deeds  of  the  deceased,  and  that  they  were 
not  evil  is  shown  bj'his  placid,  happ}'  countenance.  Her  left  arm 
also  is  raised,  but  whether  resting  on  something,  or  pointing  to 
the  inscription  recording  his  name,  is  not  clear.  She  is  dressed 
in  a  tunic  of  deep  red  ;  and  her  body  is  delineated  in  full,  though 
her  face  and  bare  legs  are  tm-ned  in  the  direction  the  car  is 
taking ;  as  shown  in  the  woodcut  on  the  last  page. 

Over  the  door  of  the  tomb,  and  immediatelv  behind  the  soul,  is 
the  half-draped  figure  of  a  corn'icen,  with  a  large  circular  tnmipet. 
His  left  shoulder,  as  well  as  that  of  the  soul,  is  bordered  by 
a  dark,  wavy-edged  background  of  no  determinate  fonn,  which 
may  be  introduced,  as  Count  Conestabile  conjectures,  to  throw 
out  the  white  mantles  into  strong  relief,  as  they  would  other- 
wise be  confounded  with  the  stucco  ground;^  or  it  may  be 
intended  to  represent  clouds,  as  suggested  by  the  analogy  of 
the  Grotta  dell'  Oreo  at  Conieto,  and  thus  to  express  that  the 
figures  here  depicted,  are  no  longer  in  this  life,  but  in  the  unseen 
world. 

On  the  adjoining  wall  was  a  banquet  of  three  couches,  small 
fragments  of  which  only  are  now  visible.  The  figures  on  the 
first  couch,  however,  retain  tlieir  heads  and  shoulders.  Both  are 
young  men,  garlanded  with  laurel,  half-draped  in  white  himatia, 
and  reposing  on  cushions,  whose  rich  decorations  mark  this  as  a 
scene  of  Etiiiscan  luxury.  One  of  them  stretches  out  his  hand 
to  his  companion's  shoulder,  as  if  to  call  his  attention  to  the  new 
arrival,  and  both  of  them  tmn  their  heads  round  to  greet  the  soul 

■*  Liv.    I.    8  ;    Flor.    I.    5  ;    Plin.   YIII.  think  with  Briinn  that  they  -n-ere  bound 

74  ;  IX.  63.  round  her  waist  (liull.  Inst.   1863,  p.   48)  ; 

'  Conestabile  (op.  cit.  p.   77)  takes  the  if    so,    they   must    be    regarded    as    her 

snakes  to  be  the  bronze  adornments  of  the  attributes, 
pole  of  the  li;/a,  as  they  are  too  low  for  *<  Titture  Miinili,  p.  110. 

the  Lasa's  wai>t.     ]5ut  I  am  incline 


CHAP.  XXXVII.]     THE  ELYSIUM   OF   THE   ETRUSCANS.  57 

on  his  AViiy  to  share  tlioir  felifity.  Of  tlie  pair  on  the  next  couch 
A'oii  see  hut  a  le^'  and  u  liaiul  liohling  a  Li/Iix;  hesides  two  pigeons 
on  the  stool  heneath.  Enough  of  the  third  couch  is  left  to  show 
that  the  cou})le  were  of  opposite  sexes,  hut  the  man's  face  is  gone 
and  his  hair  is  twisted  into  a  long  tutiiln.^  at  the  to})  of  his  head, 
just  as  it  is  worn  h}'  one  of  the  charioteers  in  the  adj(jining  Tomb 
of  the  Two  ]3ig{e.  He  grasps  hy  the  shoulder  the  young  girl  who 
shares  his  couch,  of  whom  we  see  no  more  tlian  that  slie  has  a 
(rreek  profile  and  is  draped  in  white.  An  inscription  of  eight 
lines,  in  minute  characters,  covers  the  wall  between  these  heads  ; 
and  a  long  inscription,  in  few  cases  legible,  is  attaclied  to  each 
of  the  other  heads  in  this  banijuct-scene.  Between  two  of  the 
couches  stands  a  tall  candelahvuin,  and  others  are  on  the  opi)osite 
wall — necessarj-  accessories  to  a  feast  in  the  gloom v  regions  of 
Orcus. 

The  banquet  is  continued  on  the  inner  wall  of  the  chamber  b}' 
a  fourth  couch,  on  which  recline  two  men,  one  holding  a  i)hiala, 
the  other  a  kyllx.  At  the  foot  of  their  coucli  a  suhulo,  and  a 
hitJiarista  with  a  heptachord  Ij're,  stand  draped  in  white,  playing 
their  respective  instruments.  Attaclied  to  each  reveller  is  a 
long  inscription  of  three  lines  in  minute  characters.  On  the 
low  stool  beneath  the  couch,  a  cat  named  "  kraxkru  "  is  tearing 
her  pre}' ;  and  at  the  other  end  a  naked  boy,  or  it  may  be  a 
monkey,  with  hair  erect  as  if  with  terror,  is  designated  "  Krupu." 
All  the  figures  in  this  banquet- scene  appear  to  have  been 
backed  by  ash-coloured  clouds,  which  throw  their  drapery  into 
forcible  relief,  but  only  in  those  parts  where  their  Avhite  robes 
might  otherwise  be  confounded  Avith  the  stuccoed  surface  of  the 
tomb. 

The  last  paintings  to  be  described  are  on  the  partition-wall. 
One  half  of  its  surface  is  occupied  by  the  kylikeiiim,  or  side-board, 
with  the  wine  for  the  banquet,  and  by  the  servants  in  attendance; 
the  other  half  by  a  majestic  group  of  Pluto  and  Proserpine 
sitting  in  state — a  group  which  explains  the  whole  scene  and 
proves  the  figures  here  depicted  to  represent  not  living  beings  in 
the  indulgence  of  their  earthly  appetites,  but  the  spirits  of  the 
departed  in  the  enjoyment  of  Elysium.  On  the  tripod  sideboard 
stand  a  large  mixing-bowl,  and  two  amphoric,  with  five  small 
a'iiocJioa;  of  different  sizes,  a  short  tJnjDiidtcrium,  or  censer,  with 
fire  burning,  and  a  small  white  casket,  probably  for  the  incense. 
The  table  is  fianked  by  two  tall  caiulehihra  reaching  almost  to 
the  ceiling,  each  with  three  beaks  :  each  beak  holding  a  lighted 


58 


OEVTETO. 


[CHAr.    XXXVII. 


candle,  just  like  those  of  modern  days.'     The  attendant  slaves 
in  this  scene  appear  to  be  carrvinif  wine  to  the  banqueters,  and 


seem  not  to  heed  the  presence  of  the  august  personages  behind 

'  Tlie  beaks  of  cnnddahra  liave  generally  novel  view  of  tlie  use  to  wliicli  they  were 
been  supposed  to  have  served  for  the  sus-  put.  Tlie  spike  of  tlie  beak  seems  to  be 
pension  of  lamps.     This  painting  gives  a       run  into  the  candle. 


CHAP,  xx.xvii.]  I'LL'TO    AND    PEOSERPIiNE.  59 

them.  Olio,  dressed  in  a  long  Avliite  tiinie,  has  a  desiguatory 
inscription  ;  the  other  is  naked  and  nameless. 

The  group  of  I'hito  and  Proserijine  is  the  most  striking  in  this 
tomb,  'i'lie  god,  who  is  designated  "  Eita,"  or  Hades,  wears  a 
wolfskin  over  his  head,  aiul  sits,  wrapped  in  a  dark  greenish 
mantle  bordered  with  red,  on  an  elegant  throne,  whose  legs,  left 
white  to  represent  ivorv  or  silver,  are  adorned  with  Greek  volutes 
and  honeysuckles.  He  has  a  red  coinplexi(Mi,  and  heard  of  still 
deeper  red,  and  holds  in  his  right  hand  a  spear,  round  the  end  of 
whieh  is  coiled  a  serpent.  He  rests  his  sandalled  feet  on  a  high 
block  or  footstool.  The  goddess,  who  is  named  "  i'iikiisipxai," 
sits  by  his  side  with  her  bare  feet  on  the  same  stool.  They  seem 
to  be  in  earnest  conversation,  for  their  mouths  are  open,  and  she 
looks  stedfastly  at  him  as  she  rests  her  right  hand  on  his  thigh, 
thus  answering  the  pressure  of  his  left  hand  on  her  shoulder. 
She  is  of  fair  complexion  and  light  hair,  and  wears  a  golden 
(iiiij)i/x  on  her  brow,  earrings  with  triple  pendants,  and  a  neck- 
lace of  gold,  from  which  depend  large  begemmed  plarpies.  On 
her  left  hand,  in  which  she  holds  a  sceptre  surmounted  by  a 
small  blue  bird,  she  wears  a  wedding-ring,  with  a  snake-bracelet  on 
her  Avrist.  Her  tunic  is  yellow,  with  slashed  sleeves  reaching 
to  the  elbow,  and  over  this  she  wears  a  white  mantle  with  a 
Yand3^ked  border  of  red,  which  hangs  over  her  shoulder,  and 
descends  to  her  ankles.  Her  right  shoulder,  where  her  white 
mantle  would  be  lost  against  the  stuccoed  wall,  is  relieved  by  the 
usual  cloudy  background. 

The  similarity  between  the  figures  of  Hades  and  Persephone  in 
this  tomb  and  those  of  the  same  deities  in  the  Grotta  dell'  Oreo 
at  Corneto,  is  striking.  The  representations  of  the  god  are  so 
similar  in  every  respect,  that  they  have,  with  great  probability, 
been  supjiosed  to  have  been  worked  out  from  the  same  origmal 
type.  The  figure  of  the  goddess  here  is  certainly  much  inferior 
in  majest}'  to  that  in  the  Tarcpiinian  tomb,  but  her  ornaments  are 
very  similar,  and  the  border  of  her  robe  is  identical  in  pattern. 
There  is  probably  little  difference  in  point  of  antiquity  between 
the  paintings  in  the  two  tombs.  But,  as  Helbig  observes,  those 
in  the  Grotta  dell'  Oreo  show  more  of  the  spirit  of  Greek  art ; 
these  of  Orvieto  more  of  a  native  character.'' 

It  is  impossible  not  to  be  stnick  with  the  difterence  in  the  art 
displayed  in  the  two  halves  of  this  tomb.  In  the  first  part, 
where  the  preparations  for  the  feast  are  represented,  the  figures 

**  Ann.  Inst.,  1S70,  p.  6S. 


60  ORYIETO.  [CHAP.  XXXVII. 

fire  more  or  less  clumsy  and  awkward,  tlie  eounteiianct's  vulgar. 
There  is  a  rudeness  of  common  life,  as  Bruini  remarks,  entirely' 
opposed  to  ideality,  yet  the  whole  scene  is  full  of  life,  truth,  and 
individual  character.^  In  the  other  half  of  the  tomb,  the  design 
is  more  correct,  the  figures  more  graceful,  the  attitudes  and 
movements  more  dignified,  the  expression  more  nohle.  The  one 
half  seems  the  Avork  of  a  plebeian,  the  other  of  an  aristocratic 
hand.  Yet  there  is  no  reason  to  doubt  that  they  are  contem- 
poraneous works,  and  even  by  the  same  artist,  accommodating  his 
style  to  his  subject. 

There  is  little  chiaroscuro  in  these  paintings,^  and  the  onl}' 
attempt  at  perspective  is  a  signal  failure,  3'et  the  full  or  three- 
quarter  faces,  the  skill  displayed  in  foreshortening,  the  natural 
aiTangement  of  the  drapery,  the  dignity  in  the  attitudes  of  certain 
figures,  the  ease  and  grace  in  the  movements  of  others,  the 
general  correctness  of  the  design,  the  truth  of  the  anatomical 
development,  the  comparative  freedom  from  conventionalities, 
and  the  stud}'  of  nature  evident  throughout,  show  a  great  advance 
on  the  archaic  Avorks  of  the  Etruscan  jiencil,  preserved  in  the 
earlier  tombs  of  Corneto  and  Chiusi.  The  influence  of  Greek 
art  is  here  manifest,  yet  it  is  not  so  powerful  as  to  overlay 
the  national  characteristics.  "NVith  much  probability  Count  G. 
Conestabile  has  assigned  to  this  tomb  the  date  of  the  middle 
of  the  4th  century  of  Eome,  or  about  400  b.c.~ 

The  intense  damp  of  these  two  sepulchres  is  fast  destroying 
the  paintings.  Though  the  gi-ound  on  which  they  were  laid 
is  white,  all  is  now  so  saturated  with  moisture,  that  the  walls 

^  Ann.  Inst.,  ISOO,  p.  433.  ditferent  hues.      He  is  of  oijinion  that  on 

'  Dr.  Brunn  (Ann.   Inst.,  18fi6,  p.  43,'))  this  account,  the  Etruscan  artists,  even  of 

points  out  the  existence  of  chiaroscuro  in  an  advanced  period,  as  in  this  instiince, 

Pluto's   footstool,    in  the    heam   to   which  often  purposely  adhered  to  the  simplicity 

the   ox  is  suspended,  and  in  the   carcass  of  earlier  ai"t. 

itself,  which,  without  these  few  hints  of  "  Pitture  Murali,  p.  114.  Urunii  re- 
shadow,  would  have  formed  a  very  ugly  marks  that  it  is  enough  to  consider  atten- 
mass.  But  he  shows  that  the  absence  of  tively  the  majestic  group  of  Pluto  and 
chiaroscuro  in  these  sepulchral  jiaintings,  Proserpine,  and  the  elegant  figr.re  of  the 
is  not  always  a  safe  criterion  of  antiquity.  cup-bearer,  to  be  co)iviiice<l  that  in  this 
For  as  the  paintings  were  executed  in  tomb  we  no  longer  tind  oui-selves  in  an 
subterranean  chambers,  which  could  admit  ejioch  of  tmnsitiun,  but  in  the  middle  of 
but  little  daylight,  and  were  rarely  lighted  the  period  of  the  free  development  of  art. 
by  artilicial  means,  the  introduction  of  Ann.  lust.  18(50,  p.  436.  For  illu.strations, 
cliiaroscuro  would  not  be  favourable  to  the  see  the  very  accurate  plates,  Xo.  4  to  11, 
impression  they  were  intended  to  convey  :  which  Conestabile  attaches  to  his  said 
for  in  the  gloom  of  the  sepulchre,  tlie  work  ;  from  which  the  woodcuts  at  i)p.  i)5, 
shadows,  instead  of  increasing  the  effect,  o8,  have  been  cojiied. 
would  rather  have  served  to  confound  the 


CHAP.  XXXVII.]  THE    CATHEDRAL.  CI 

liiivc  boeonie  n  lunt'ovni  diiif^y  brown,  save  where  the  stucco  lins 
been  a  little  detached,  when  it  resumes  its  native  hue.  Signer 
v.  G.  Gamurrini,  foreseeing  their  destruction,  proposed  to  re- 
move these  paintings  to  some  museum  for  preservation,  but  the 
Government  would  not  grant  its  permission,  which  is  much  to  be 
regretted,  for  in  a  short  time  they  will  be  utterly'  ruined  by  the 
humidity.  At  least  the  wooden  doors  which  now  close  the  tombs 
should  be  exchanged  for  iron  gratings,  so  that  b}^  the  free  admis- 
sion of  the  atmosphere,  the  Avails  might  be  relieved  of  some  of 
their  moisture. 

In  some  of  the  other  tombs  opened  b}'  Signor  Golini  on  this 
spot,  were  found  beautiful  bronze  armour,  and  some  interesting 
painted  vases,  very  few  of  them  Greek,  but  mostly  of  local  manu- 
facture, displaying  novel  features,  peculiar  to  Orvieto.'^ 


Orvieto  is  a  cit}'  of  six  or  seven  thousand  inliabitants,  and  is 
neater  and  cleaner  than  most  towns  in  this  part  of  the  l*apal 
State.  The  hotel  of  "  Le  Belle  Arti "  has  fair  pretensions  to 
comfort.  But,  traveller,  would  you  hire  a  carriage  of  the  land- 
lord, beware  of  overcharges,  and  pay  not  until  the  contract  has 
been  performed.  The  two  great  lions  at  Orvieto  are  tlie  Duorao, 
and  the  well  of  San  Patrizio.  Of  the  latter  with  its  strange 
corkscrew  descent,  I  have  nothing  to  say ;  but  how  can  I  be 
silent  on  the  Duomo  ? 

It  is  foreign  to  the  purpose  of  this  work,  or  I  could  expatiate 
on  the  glories  of  this  Cathedral.  Willingly  would  I  descant  on 
its  matchless  facade,  similar  in  style,  but  more  chaste  and  elegant 
than  that  of  Siena — on  the  graces  of  its  Lombard  architecture — 
on  its  fretted  arches  and  open  galleries — its  columns  varied  in 
hue  and  form — its  aspiring  pediments — its  marigold  window  with 
the  circling  guard  of  saints  and  angels — its  primitive  but  eloquent 
reliefs — its  many-hued  marbles — its  mosaics  gilding,  warming  and 
enriching  the  whole,  yet  imparting  no  meretricious  gaudiness, 
— the  entire  facade  being  the  petrifaction  of  an  illuminated 
missal — a  trium})hant  blaze  of  beauty  obtained  by  the  judicious 
combination  of  the  three  Sister  Graces  of  Art.  I  could  say  niucli 
of  the  interior  and  its  sculptured  decorations — of  its  spacious- 
ness and  gloomy  grandeur,  more  devotion-stirring  than  most 
cathedrals  of  Central  Italy — of  the  massive  banded  columns,  with 
their  (j[uaint  capitals — of  the  manifold  treasures  of  art — the 
dignity  and  alarmed  modesty  of  Mochi's  Mrgin — the  intensity  of 

3  r.iuiiii.  Bull.  In.st.  1SG3,  pp.  51-53. 


62  OEYIETO.  [chap,  xxxvii. 

feeling  in  the  Pietd  of  Sealza, — tlie  tenderness,  and  celestial 
radiancy  of  Fra  Angelico's  frescoes, — and  above  all  I  could 
descant  on  the  glories  of  Luca  Signorelli,  not  elsewhere  to  be 
appreciated — on  the  grandeur  of  composition,  the  boldness  of 
design,  and  truthfulness  to  nature  of  those  marvellous  and  awful 
frescoes  which  have  immortalized  his  name,  and  which  made  him 
a  model  of  sublimity  to  liatfiielle  and  Michael  Angelo.  But  such 
subjects  are  foreign  to  mv  theme,  and  I  must  pass  them  by, 
simply  assuring  the  traveller,  that  no  town  in  Central  Itah'  more 
urgenth'  demands  a  visit,  for  the  beautj'^  of  its  site  and  surround- 
ing scenery,  and  for  the  unrivalled  glories  of  its  Cathedral.  If 
he  be  in  search  of  objects  of  mediaeval  art,  let  him  omit  what 
places  he  will  between  Florence  and  Rome,  but  let  him  see 
(Jiwieto.^ 

''  The    traveller,    on   going    northward,  in  this  direction  are  Citth  la  Pieve,  about 

leaves  the  volcanic  district  at  Orvieto.   The  28  miles,    and  Chiusi,    3i    miles    distant, 

region  of  plain  and  ravine  is  behind  him  ;  both  accessible  by  the  railroad,  and  both  of 

that  of  undulation   before    him.     Abrupt  Etruscan  interest.      Eighteen  miles  to  the 

and  perpendicular  foiTus  give  i^lace  to  gentle  east  lies  Todi,  the  ancient  Tuder,  on  the 

slopes  and  flowing  outlines.     Tufo  is  ex-  left  bank  of  the  Tiber,   and   therefore  in 

changed  for  a  yellow  sandstone  full  of  lar'ge  Umbria,    a    most    interesting    site  for   its 

oyster-shells  and  other  marine  productions,  extant  remains  as  well  as  for  its  beautiful 

and  often  containing  thin  layers  of  rounded  scenery, 
jiebbles.     The  nearest  towns  of  importance 


EXltUSCAN    COIN,    ASCRIIiED    TU    LUNA. 


CHAPTER    XXXVIII. 

LUNI.— LC/^Y^L 

Lunai"  jiortum  esL  opevte  coguoscece  cives  ! — Esnius. 

Anne  nictallifcriX!  repetit  jam  nuenia  Lnn^, 
TyiTlieuasi[uc  doiiKs  ?  Statius. 

TiiK  most  nortlierl>"  city  of  Etruvia  was  Luna.  It  stood  on 
tlie  very  frontier,  on  the  left  bank  of  tlie  Macra,  which  formed 
tlie  north-western  boundary  of  that  hmd.^  And  thongh  at  one 
time  in  the  possession  of  the  Ligurians,  together  with  a  wide 
tract  to  the  south,  even  down  to  Pisa  and  the  Arno,  yet  Luna 
was  originally  Etruscan,  and  as  sucli  it  was  recognised  in  Imperial 
times."  It  was  never  renowned  for  size  or  power ;  '^  its  import- 
ance seems  to  have  been  derived  chiefly  from  its  vast  and  com- 
modious port,  truly  "worthy  of  a  people  who  long  held  dominion 
of  the  sea,"'  and  which  is  now  known  as  the  Gulf  of  Spezia. 

Insignis  portu,  qno  non  spatiosior  alter 
Innumeras  cepisse  rates,  et  claudere  pontum.^ 


>  Sti-alio  (V.  p.  222)  speaks  of  Jlacra  as 
a  place — x'^p'^""  >  ^^^i*  Pliny  (III.  7,  8)  is 
more  definite  in  inarl<ing  it  as  a  river,  the 
lioundaiy  of  Liguria  and  Etruria. 

-  Much  confusion  has  arisen  from  the 
contradictory  statements  of  ancient  writers 
in  calling  tliis  territory  sometimes  Ligurian, 
sometimes  Etruscan.  There  are  numerous 
authorities  on  hoth  sides.  Livy  (XLI.  l:i) 
explains  the  discrepancy  by  stating  that 
Luna  with  its  ar/er  was  captured  by  the 
Romans  from  the  Ligurians ;  but  that 
l)efore  it  belonged  to  the  latter  it  had  been 
Etruscan.       Lycophron,    however,    repre- 


sents the  Ligures  as  disjjo.ssessed  of  Pisa 
and  its  territory  by  the  Etruscans.  Cas- 
sandra, V^r)C}. 

•*  Dempster  erroneously  classed  it  among 
the  Twelve  cities  of  the  Etruscan  Confe- 
deration (IL  pp.  41,  SO),  in  which  he  is 
followed  by  more  recent  writers.  But 
Strabo  testifies  to  the  small  size  of  Luna. 
Targioni  Tozzetti  says  it  was  not  more  than 
two  miles  in  circuit.  Viaggi  in  Toscana, 
X.  p.  400. 

••  Strabo,  V.  p.  222. 

5  Sil.  Ital.VlII.  483.  Pliny  (IH.  8)  also 
speaks  of  Luna  as — oppidum  portu  nobile. 


64  LUXT.  [cHAr.  xxxviii. 

But  its  size  and  seciiiity  are  the  least  of  its  cliarms.  To  the 
tranquil  beauty  of  a  lake  it  unites  the  niajest}'  of  the  sea.  No 
liiirer  bay  could  poet  sigh  for,  "  to  Hoat  about  the  summer- 
waters."  Never  did  i)urer  Avave  mirror  more  glorious  objects. 
Shining  towns — pine-crested  convents — luxuriant  groves — storm- 
defying  forts  —  castled-crags — proud  headlands  —  foam-fretted 
islets — dark  heights,  prodigal  of  wine  and  oil — purple  mountains 
behind, — and  naked  marble-peaked  Apennines  over  all, 

"  Islanded  in  immeasurable  air." 

The  precise  site  of  Luna  has  been  much  disi^uted.  As  the 
Gulf  of  Spezia  lay  on  the  Ligurian,  and  Luna  on  the  Etruscan, 
side  of  the  Macra,  it  has  been  supposed  either  there  was  anciently 
a  port,  properly  that  of  Luna,  at  the  mouth  of  that  river,  or  that 
the  town  occupied  some  other  site.  It  is  well  ascertained  that 
the  alluvial  deposits  of  the  Magra  have  made  large  encroach- 
ments in  the  course  of  centuries,  so  as  to  have  altered  the  course 
of  that  stream,  and  to  have  widened  the  strip  of  land  between  the 
mountains  and  the  sea.  The  whole  plain,  in  fact,  seems  to  have 
been  formed  by  these  deposits.  Yet  no  harbour  within  the 
mouth  of  the  Magra  would  answer  the  description  ancient  writers 
give  of  the  Port  of  Luna,  which  manifestly  was  no  other  than  the 
Gulf  of  Spezia.**  Researches  made  in  1837  and  in  1857  have 
clearty  established  that  the  ancient  town,  which  once  stood  on 
the  shore,  occupied  the  spot  which  traditionally  bears  the  name 
of  Luni,  and  now  lies  at  a  considerable  distance  from  the  sea. 

About  three  miles  from  Sarzana,  on  the  high-road  to  Lucca 
and  Pisa,  the  traveller  has  on  his  right  a  strip  of  low  cultivated 
land,  intervening  between  him  and  the  sea.  Here  stood  the 
ancient  city,  about  one  mile  from  the  shore  and  two  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Magra.  Let  him  turn  out  of  the  high-road, 
opposite  the  Farm  of  the  Iron  Hand — Casino  di  jNIan  di  Ferro — 
and  after  a  mile    or   so  he  will  reach   the  site.     There  is  little 

^  Holstenius  (Annot.  ad  Cluvcr,  pp.  liave  jjlaced  it  on  the  right  l>ank  of  the 
20,  277),  however,  insists  on  the  port  of  Magra,  a  view  favoui-ed  by  Strabo,  who 
Luna  being  at  the  mouth  of  the  Magra,  says  tlie  Macra  was  between  Luna  and  Pisa ; 
and  declares  he  saw  the  posts  with  rings  while  Sarzana,  Avenza,  Spezia,  even  Car- 
attached,  to  which  the  ancient  shipping  rara,  have  respectively  been  indicated  as 
bad  been  moored.  Cluver  (IL  p.  456)  its  site  ;  and  Scaliger  went  so  far  as  to 
placed  the  site  of  Luna  at  Lerici,  in  which  deny  it  a  local  haliitation,  and  to  submerge 
he  is  followed  by  Maunert  (Geog.  p.  288),  it  beneath  the  sea.  See  Uepetti,  v.  Luni, 
who  thinks  this  the  reason  why  the  L;itin  IL  p.  936.  Cramer  (L  p.  171),  however, 
con-ector  of  Ptolemy,  instead  of  Luna;  and  Miiller  (Etrusk.  einl.  2,  13)  place  its 
Tortus  puts   Ericis   Portus.     Others  also  site  at  Luni. 


CHAP.  XXXVIII.]      SITE   AND  VESTIGES   OE   I-UXA.  Go 

enough  to  see.  Beyond  a  few  crumbling  tombs,  and  a  fragment 
or  two  of  Pioman  ruin,  nothing  remains  of  Luna.  The  scene, 
described  by  PaitiUus,  so  appropriate  to  a  spot  which  bore  the 
name  of  the  virgin-queen  of  heaven — the  fair  walls,  shaming  with 
their  whiteness  the  "laughing  lilies"  and  the  untrodden  snow — if 
not  the  creation  of  the  poet,  have  long  vanished  from  the  siglit. 

Advehiinur  celeri  candentia  moenia  lapsu  ; 

Noininis  est  auctor  Sole  coriisca  soror. 
Indigenis  superat  ridentia  lilia  saxis, 

Et  la!vi  radiat  picta  nitore  silex. 
Dives  marmoribus  tellus,  qua;  luce  coloris 

Provocat  intactas  luxuriosa  nives.'^ 

\'estiges  of  an  amphitheatre,  of  a  semi-circular  building,  which 
may  be  a  theatre,  of  a  circus,  a  piscina,  and  fragments  (d" 
columns,  pedestals  for  statues,  blocks  of  i)avement,  and  inscrip- 
tions, are  all  that  Luna  has  now  to  sliow.  The  Avails,  from 
Iiutilius'  description,  are  supposed  to  have  been  of  marble;  in- 
<leed,  Ciriacus  of  Ancona  tells  us  that  what  remained  of  them  in 
the  middle  of  the  fifteenth  century,  were  of  that  material ;""  but 
not  a  block  is  now  left  to  determine  the  point. 

Since  so  little  remains  of  the  lioman  town,  what  vestige  can 
we  expect  of  Etruscan  Luna  '?  Xo  monument  of  that  antiquity 
has  ever  been  discovered  on  the  site,  or  in  its  vicinity ;  ^  not  even 

?  Rutil.  Itiner.  II.  (53.  ters  has  Leen  found  in  the  Val  di  Vara, 
8  Ciriacus,  who  wrote  in  1442,  is  the  many  miles  inland,  at  the  head  of  the  Gulf 
earliest  antiquary  who  gives  us  an  account  of  Spezia.  Promis,  op.  cit.  p.  61.  No 
of  Luni.  He  describes  the  blocks  of  coins  belonging  to  Luna  have  been  disco- 
marble  as  being  8  "paces"  (jtalms?)  long,  vered  on  the  spot.  Promis,  p.  23.  The 
by  4  high.  Promis  does  not  credit  him  as  bronze  coin,  with  this  name  in  Etruscan 
to  the  material  ;  all  the  remains  of  masonry  charactere,  has  on  the  obverse  a  bearded, 
at  present  on  the  spot  being  of  the  coarse  garlanded  head,  which  Lanzi  takes  for  that 
brown  .stone  from  the  neighbouring  head-  of  the  r/enius  of  the  Macra  ;  and  on  the 
land  of  Corvo  ;  and  the  fragments  of  ar-  reverse,  a  reed,  four  globules,  and  a  wheel 
•chitectural  or  sculptural  decoration,  which  divided  into  four  parts,  and  surrounded 
are  of  marble,  are  not  more  abundant  than  with  rays  like  a  sun.  Lanzi,  II.  pp.  26, 
on  similar  sites  in  Italy  (Memorie  di  Luni,  73,  tav.  I.  10  ;  Passeri,  Paralipom.  ad 
pp.  61,  66).  Muller  (I.  2,  4)  credits  Ijoth  Dempst.  tab.  V.  1.  Miiller  (Etrusk.  I.  p. 
Kutilius  and  Ciriacus,  and  thinks  these  337)  is  inclined  to  refer  these  coins  to 
luarble  walk  must  have  been  of  Etruscan  Populonia  ;  so  also  Mionnet  (.Supplem.  I. 
times.  Targioni  Tozzetti  (op.  cit.  XII.  p.  pp.  199,  203),  Sestini  ((jeog.  Numis?.  11. 
142)  sjjeaks  of  the  walls  as  still  of  marble  p.  4),  and  Jlillingeu  (Nuinis.  Anc.  Ital.  p. 
in  his  day.  173).  A  series  of  coins,  with  a  young 
^  The  JIarchese  Angelo  Remedi  and  the  man's  head  wearing  the  cap  of  an  ArusjHj.x, 
]Marche.se  Podesta  have  made  excavations  and  with  a  sacrificial  knife,  an  axe,  and 
liere  of  late  years,  and  have  di-scovered  two  crescents,  but  no  inscrijition,  on  tiie 
numerous  Roman  remains,  but  nothing  reveri-e,  is  suppo.sed  by  Melchiorri  to  have 
Etruscan.  Bull.  Inst.  1858,  pp.  S-Kl.  belonged  to  Luna.  liull.  Inst.  lS3i',  p.  122. 
A  stone  inscribed  with    Etruscan  charac-  See  the  woodcut  at  the  head  of  this  chapter. 

VJ-j.     II.  F 


66  LUXI.  [chap.  XXXVIII. 

a  trace  of  the  ancient  cemetery  is  to  be  recognised,  either  in  the 
plain,  or  among  the  neiglibouring  heights,  where  it  shoukl  be 
sought  for,  so  that  we  might  almost  doubt  the  Etruscan  antiquity 
of  Luna  ;  yet  such  is  expressly  assigned  to  it  by  the  ancients. 
No  record  ^>t'  it,  however,  has  come  down  to  us  prior  to  Roman 
times. 

The  earliest  mention  we  have  of  Luna  is  from  old  Ennius,  who 
took  part  in  the  exjiedition  against  Sardinia,  Avhich  sailed  from 
this  port  in  539  (u.c.  215),  under  Manlius  Torquatus ;  and  the 
poet,  struck  with  the  beauty  of  the  gulf,  called  on  his  fellow - 
citizens  to  come  and  admire  it  with  him, — 

"  Lunai  portum  est  operae  cognoscere,  cives  I  " ' 

The  first  historical  notice  to  be  found  of  Luna  is  in  the  year 
559  (B.C.  195),  when  Cato  the  Consul  collected  a  force  in  the 
port,  and  sailed  thence  against  the  Spaniards.-  It  is  mentioned 
again  in  the  year  568,^  and  in  577,  in  the  Ligurian  "War,  it 
received  a  colony  of  two  thousand  Ilomans.^  In  the  civil  war 
between  Csesar  and  Pompey,  it  is  said  to  have  been  in  utter 
decay,  inhabited  only  by  a  venerable  soothsayer — 

Arruns  incoluit  desertae  mcenia  Lurue.^ 

But  a  few  years  later  it  was  re-colonised  by  the  Eomans ; ''  and 
inscriptions  found  on  the  s]3ot  prove  it  to  have  existed  at  the 
close  of  the  fourth  century  of  our  era. 

After  the  fall  of  the  Eoman  Empii-e,  Luna  was  desolated  by  the 
Lombards,  Saracens,  and  Normans,  but  it  was  a  yet  more 
formidable,  though  invisible,  foe  that  depopulated  the  site,  and 
that  eventually  caused  it,  in  the  fifteenth  century,  to  be  utterly 
deserted." 

Luna,  under  the  Romans,  was  renowned  for  its  wine,  which 
was  the  best  in  all  Etruria ;  '*  and  for  its  cheeses,  which  were 

'  EnniiLS,  ap.  Pers.  Sat.  VI.  9  ;  cf.  Liv.  Julia.     Frontin.  de  Colon.  !>.  19,  ed.  ]5S8. 

XXIII.  34.  '  There  is  an  old  legend  which  ascribes 

-  Liv.  XXXIV.  8.  its  destruction  to  another  cause.     The  lord 

•*  Liv.  XXXIX.  '21.  of   Luna  won  the  affections  of  a  certain 

■•  Liv.  XLI.  13.     ^Vhether  Luna  or  Lnca  Enipre.s.s,  who,  to  obtain  her  end,  feigned 

is   here  the    correct  reading,   is  disputed.  hei-self  dead  ;  her  lover  playing  the  resur- 

Paterculus  (I.  15)  has  Luca.  rectionist,    and  carrying  her  to    his   own 

*  Lucan.     I.    586.      Here    again    some  house.     This  coming  to   the   ears  of  the 

editions     have     "  Luca;."      Dante,     who  Emperor,  he  not  only  took  vengeance  on 

probably     records     the     local      tradition,  the  offenders,  but  laiil  the  city  in  the  dust. 

(Inferno,  XX.   47),    places  this  .soothsayer  Alberti,  Descrit.  d'ltalia,  p.  22. 

in  the  mountains  of  Carrara.  ^  Plin.  XIV.  8,  5. 
**  By   the   Triumvirate,    under   the  Le.x 


CHAP.    XXXVIII.] 


THE    M^iEBLE    OF    LUXA. 


67 


stamped  -vvitli  tlu;  figure,  either  of  the  moon,  or  of  the  J'ltruscan 
Diana,  and  Avere  of  vast  size,  sometimes  weighing  a  thousand 
})()unds.''  But  -what  gave  Luna  most  renown  was  her  marble  ; 
known  to  us  as  that  of  Carrara.  This  does  not  appear  to  have 
been  known  to  the  Etruscans  at  an  early  period,  for  the  few  traces 
we  find  of  it  in  the  national  monuments  are  not  of  ver}-  archaic 
character  ;  and  surely  the  people  who  made  such  extensive  use  of 
alabaster,  and  executed  such  excjuisite  works  in  bronze,  would 
have  availed  themselves  of  this  beautiful  material,  as  soon  as  it 
bcu-ame  known  to  them  :  yet,  on  the  other  hand,  it  is  difiicult  to 
miderstand  how  its  nirca  metalla  could  have  long  escaped  their 
eye.^  It  does  not  seem  to  have  been  known  to  the  liomans 
much  before  the  Empire."  The  earliest  mention  we  have  of  it  is 
in  the  time  of  Julius  Csesar  ;^  but  a  stone  which  was  whiter  than 
Parian  marble,'*'  and  yet  might  be  cut  Avitli  a  saAv,^  was  not  likely 
to    be    neu'lected    bv  the    luxiirious    Komans    of   that   ai^c ;    and 


9  riin.  XI.  it?  ;  Martial,  XII [,  epig.  30  : 

Caseiis  Etruscce  signatus  imagine  Lunae 
Pnestabit  pucfis  iivaiulia  mille  tuis. 

Thoxigh  the  Greek  writers  translate  the 
name  of  this  town  by  '2.f\-i}V7},  and  thoiigli 
.1  moon  seems  to  have  been  the  symbol  of 
Luna  umler  the  Romans,  we  have  no  ground 
for  conchiding  that  such  was  the  meaning 
of  the  Etruscan  name.  Some  liave  thought 
tliat  Luna  was  derived  from  the  form  of  its 
port— even  JMiiller  (Etrusk.  I.  4,  8)  held 
this  opinion — but  the  name  is  not  at  all 
descriptive  of  the  harbour,  which  cannot  be 
likened  to  a  moon,  whether  full,  half,  or 
crescent.  Lanzi  suggests  that  "Losna," 
the  name  attached  to  .a  goddess  with  a 
crescent  as  her  emblem,  represented  on  a 
mirror  (Saggio,  II.  p.  20,  tav.  8  ;  see  also 
Gerhard,  Etrusk.  Spieg.  taf.  171),  may 
be  the  ancient  Latin  form  ;  Miillcr  thinks 
it  the  Etruscan.  Ikit  this  monument  is 
certainly  Latin.  It  appeai-s  to  me  highly 
probable  that  Luna  was  an  Etruscan  word, 
misinterpreted  by  the  Romans.  For  the 
three  chief  ports  on  thia  coast,  as  we  learn 
from  coins,  had  this  termination  to  their 
names — LuN.i,  Pcpluna  (Populonia),  and 
Yktlu-VA  (Vetulonia)  ;  and  as  no  inland 
town  of  Etruria  had  the  same  ending,  it  is 
not  improbable  that  Luna  hail  a  maritime 
signification,  and  meant  "a  port" — this, 
which  has  no  prefix  to  its  name,  being, 
from  its  superior  size,  prc-eminendy  "  the 


port "  of  Etruria. 

'  The  marble  sarcophagi  found  in  the 
tombs  of  Cervetri,Corneto,  and  Vulci,  which, 
from  their  style  of  art  are  certainly  not  later 
than  the  4th  century,  B.C.,  are  pronounced 
not  to  be  of  the  marble  of  Carrara,  but 
Xirobably  of  that  from  the  Tuscan  Alaremma, 
though  Canina  (Etruria  Marittima,  I.  p. 
192)  declares  them  to  be  of  the  marble  of 
the  Circ;can  Promontory,  which  was  used 
l)y  the  Etruscans  before  they  discovered 
that  of  Luna. 

-  Pliny  (XXXVL  4,  2)  speaks  of  it  as 
only  recently  discovered  in  liis  day. 

■*  j\tamui-ra,  Pra^fect  of  Caesar's  army  in 
Gaul,  was  the  first  who  had  his  house  lined 
with  niarlde,  and  every  column  in  it  was  of 
solid  marble,  either  from  Carystos  or  Luna. 
Corn.  Nepos,  ap.  Plin.  XXXVI.  7. 

■»  Plin.  XXXVI.  4,  2.  Strabo  (V.  p. 
222)  says  truly  that  the  quarries  of  Luna 
yielded  not  only  white,  but  variegated 
marble,  inclining  to  blue. 

*  Plin.  XXXVI.  29 — Lunensem  siliccm 
serra,  secari.  ThissZ/cc  has  been  supposed 
to  be  only  a  white  tufo,  not  marble  ((^uintino, 
Marmi  Lunensi,  cited  by  Midler,  I.  2,  4, 
n.  G3)  ;  but  the  term  was  of  general  appli- 
cation to  the  harder  sorts  of  rock,  and  the 
use  of  it  here  is  expressive  of  the  singu- 
larity of  the  circumstance  that  the  stone 
should  be  sawn,  and  the  word  would  lose  its 
force  if  ai)plied  to  a  soft  volcanic  forma- 
tion. 

F  2 


68  LUXI.  [ciiAi'.  .xxxviii. 

accordingh'  it  soon  came  into  extensive  use,  as  the  Pantheon, 
the  Portico  of  Octavia,  the  Pyramid  of  Caius  Cestius,  and  other 
monuments  of  that  period,  remain  to  testify ;  and  it  Avas  to  this 
discovery  that  Augustus  owed  his  hoast — that  he  had  found 
Pome  of  hrick,  hut  had  left  it  of  marhle.  From  that  time  forth, 
it  has  heen  in  use  for  statuary,  as  well  as  for  architectural 
decoration ;  and  from  the  Apollo  Belvedere  to  the  Triumphs  of 
Thorwaldsen,  "  the  stone  that  hreathes  and  struggles  "  in  im- 
mortal art,  has  heen  chiefly  the  marhle  of  Luna.^ 

^  For  furtlier  notices  of  Luna  and   its       to  tlie  work  of  Proniis,  already  cited,  and 
port,  I  refer  the  reader  to  Targioni  Tozzetti's       to  Repetti's  Diiionario  della  Toscana. 
Toscana,  X.  pp.  403 — 4(56  ;  Imt  especially 


CHAPTER    XXXIX. 

Alpliere  veterem  conteniplor  originis  urbeni 
(^luiiu  cingunt  geminis  Araus  et  Ausur  aquis. 

IIUTILIUS, 

Ox  apin-oacliiiig  Leghorn  from  the  sea,  I  have  always  been 
inclined  to  recognise  in  it,  Triturrita,  with  the  ancient  port  of 
Pisa.^  It  is  true  that  the  modern  town  does  not  "wholly  corres- 
l)ond  -with  the  description  given  by  Rutilius.  It  has  now  more 
than  a  mere  bank  of  sea-weed  to  protect  it  from  the  violence  of 
the  waves ;  it  embraces  an  ample  harbour  within  its  arms  of 
stone;  but  it  lies  on  a  naturally  open  shore;  it  has  an  artificial 
peninsula,  on  which  the  Villa  Triturrita  ma}-  have  stood ;  and,  by 
a  singular  coincidence,  there  are  still  three  prominent  towers  to 
suggest  the  identity. 


1  Kntil.  I.  r.27  et  scq.  ;  II.  12.  Called 
"Tmiita"  by  the  Peutingeriau  Table, 
which  places  it  9  miles  south_  from  I'isK. 
The  Maritime  Itinci'aiy  lias  "  Portus  Pisa- 
uus  "  in  the  same  i^osition.  !Miicli  doubt 
has  been  thrown  on  the  antiquity  of 
Livorno  (Rei^etti,  II.  p.  717)  ;  and  the 
liighcst  generally  ascribed  to  it  is  that  of 
Iloinan  times — either  as  the  Ad  Ilerculem 
of  the  Antonine  Itinerary,  on  the  Via 
Aui-elia,  12  miles  from  Piste  ;  or  the  Labro 
of  Cicero  (ad  Quint.  Frat.  11.  6)  ;  or  the 
Liburnum,  mentioned  l)y  Zosimiis  (Anna!. 
V.  cited  by  Cluver)  ;  whence  the  modern 
name,  Livorno,  as  well  as  the  LigurnuTu 
(Leghorn)  of  the  middle  ages.  Cluver  (II, 
p.  467),  and  Cramer  (Ancient  Italy,  I. 
]).  175),  i>lacc  the  Poi-tus  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Arno.  Jtannei't  ((leog.  p.  353)  on  the 
other  hand  contends  for  the  identity  of 
Leghorn  with  the  Portns  Pi.sanus.  He 
]il;ices  Labro  at  Salcbro  and  Ad  Hercnlcm  at 
Viulino.     An  intermediate  opinion  is  held 


by  Targioni  Tozzetti  (Viaggi  in  Toscana, 
II.  pp.  398 — 420),  who.  considers  the  port 
of  Pisie  to  have  been  a  bay  between  the 
Arno  and  the  site  of  Leghorn,  now  filled 
np  with  alluvial  dejiosits  from  the  river  ; 
and  he  finds  Villa  TrituiTita  in  some 
Roman  remains  on  the  inner  .shore  of  this 
bay.  It  is  well  ascertained  that  the  land 
has  gained  considerably  on  the  sea  in  the 
Delta  of  the  Arno,  and  that  this  coast  has 
much  altered  since  ancient  times.  Miiller 
(Etrusk.  I.  1,  2  ;  I.  4,  8),"  who  follows 
Tozzetti,  considers  this  i)ort  to  have  been 
connected  with  the  city  by  an  ancient 
branch  of  the  Arno,  now  stopi^ed  np,  one 
of  the  three  mentioned  by  Strabo,  V. 
p.  222.  If  the  Villi  of  the  Maritime 
Itinerary  be  a  transcriber's  error  forXIIII, 
which  may  easily  be  the  ca.se,  it  would 
favour  the  claims  of  Livorno,  for  such  is 
the  true  distance  between  that  i)ort  and 
Pisa. 


70  riSA.  [chap.  XXXIX. 

No  traveller,  now-a-da^'s,  who  reaches  Leghorn  by  sea,  omits 
to  make  a  trip  to  Pisa.  Like  the  Itinerant  Gaul  of  old,  he 
leaves  his  vessel  in  the  port,  and  hurries  away  to  lionise  that  cit}-. 
Pisa  indeed  is  a  great  ganglion  in  the  railway  sj'stem  of  Italy, 
being  on  the  highroad  from  London  and  Paris  to  the  Eternal 
Cit}',  and  connected  by  trains  with  Leghorn,  I'lorence,  and 
Bologna,  as  well  as  with  Genoa  and  Rome. 

Of  the  thousands  that  annually  visit  the  elegant  and  tranquil 
city  of  Pisa,  who  remembers  her  great  antiquity  '? — who  thinks  of 
her  as  one  of  the  most  venerable  cities  of  Italy,  prior  to  the 
Trojan  War,  one  of  the  earliest  settlements  of  the  Pelasgi  on 
this  coast?-  The  Pisa  of  the  middle  ages  is  so  bright  a  vision 
as  to  throw  into  dim  shade  the  glories  of  her  remoter  antiquit}'. 
Pisse  is  one  of  the  very  few  cities  of  Etruria,  which,  after  the 
lapse  of  nearly  three  thousand  years,  still  retains,  not  only  its 
site,  but  its  importance,  and  has  shrouded  the  hoariness  of 
antiquity  in  the  garlands  of  ever-flourishing  youth. 

We  have  said  that  Pisa  occupies  her  original  site ;  but  her 
relative  position  has  been  greatl}^  altered  in  the  course  of  cen- 
turies. For  she  anciently  stood  on  a  tongue  of  land  formed  by 
the  confluence  of  the  Arnus  and  Ausar  ^ — a  site,  if  we  substitute 
rivers  for  ravines,  very  similar  to  that  commonly  chosen  for 
cities  in  southern  Etruria.  The  Ausar,  now  the  Serchio,  altered 
its  course  somewhere  about  the  twelfth  century  of  our  era,  and 
found  a  more  northerly  channel  to  the  sea.  In  Strabo's  time 
Pisa  was  only  two  and  a-lialf  miles  inland,  but  by  the  accumulation 

*  Pis£B  is  classed  by  Dionysius  (I.  p.  IG)  Plin.  III.  8.     Cato  (ap.  Sew.),  though  ad- 

amoDg  the  xirimitive  cities  of  Italy,  either  niitting   that    this    i-egion    "ivas    originally 

taken    from    the    Siculi,    or    suhsequently  possessed  by  the  Teutones,  who  spoke  Greek, 

built  by  the  confederate  Pelasgi  and  Abor-  could   not    trace    the    foundation    of   Pisse 

igines.      Another    tradition    ascribes     its  earlier  than  the  arrival  of  the  Etruscans  in 

foundation  to  a  Greek  colony  from  Arcadia,  Italy  ;  and  he  ascribes  it  to  Tarchon.    This 

■who  named  it  after  the  celebrated  city  of  tradition  of  the  Teutanes,  Midler  (einl.  2, 

the  Peloponnesus  ;  another  to  some  of  the  0,    n.    55)    regards   as    confirmatory    of   a 

Greeks  who  wandered   to   Italy  after  the  Pelasgic  origin.      Some  say  Pisre  was  taken 

Trojan  War  (Serv.  ad  .Sn.  X.  179  ;  Strabo,  by     the    Etruscans    from    the    Ligurians. 

V.  p.  222)  ;  but  the  connection  with  Pisa;  Lycoph.   Cass.   1356.     cf.  Justin.  XX.    1. 

of  Elis  seems  to  have  been  generally  be-  But  the  almost  concurrent  voice  of  tradition 

lieved.     Virg.  Mu.  loc.  cit.  ;  Serv.  ad  loc.  ;  assigns  to  Pisre  a  Greek  origin,  which  its 

Plin.    III.    8 ;    Claudian.    de  Bel.    Gildon.  name  .seems  to  confirm  ;    though   on   the 

483  ;  Rutil.   I.   5G5,  573  ;  Solinus,  Polyh.  other  hand   its  name,  which  Servius  says 

VIII.     Servius  records  other  traditions  of  signified  a  moon-shaped  port  in  the  Lydian 

its  origin,  one  assigning  it  to   the  Celts  ;  {i.e.  Etruscan)  tongue,  may  have  given  rise 

another,  that  its  site  had  been  occupied  by  to  these  traditions. 

an  earlier  town,  by  some  called  Phocis,  by  •'  Strabo.    V.    p.    222.       Plin.    III.     8. 

others  Teuta,  whose  inhabitarts  the  Teuta\  Eutil.  I.  506. 
Teutani,  or  Tentones   were  of  (ireek  race. 


CHAP.  XXXIX.]     ANTIQUITY  AND   HISTORY   OF   TISJE.  71 

of  soil  brouf^ht  down  by  tbesc  rivers,  it  is  now  removed  six  miles 
from  the  coast, ^  wliile  the  Serchio  has  left  it  iieiirly  as  far  to  the 
south. 

Her  remoteness  from  PiDine  may  well  account  for  the  absence 
of  historical  mention  of  I'isa  during  the  i)eriod  of  Etruscan  inde- 
pendence. Yirgil  introduces  her  as  sending  aid  to  .Eneas  against 
Turnus'' — a  statement  which  can  be  received  only  as  confirmatory 
evidence  of  her  antiquity.  Yet  a  modern  writer  of  great  weight 
does  not  hesitate  to  regard  her  as  one  of  the  Twelve  chief  cities 
of  Etruria.**  The  earliest  mention  of  Pisa  in  history  occurs  in 
the  year  529  (b.c.  225),  when  just  before  the  battle  of  Telamon, 
a  Eoman  army  from  Sardinia  was  landed  here.'^  Erequent 
mention  is  subsequently  made  of  Pisa,  which  played  a  prominent 
part  in  the  Ligurian  AVars.^  It  was  colonised  in  the  year  574,  at 
the  request  of  its  citizens.''  Tender  the  Komans,  it  Avas  of  con- 
siderable importance  on  account  of  its  port,  and  was  celebrated 
also  for  the  fertility  of  its  territor^^  for  the  quarries  in  its 
neighbourhood,  and  for  the  abundance  of  timber  it  yielded  for 
ship-building.^ 

Of  the  ancient  magnificence  of  Pisa  scarcel}^  a  vestige  remains. 
Various  fragments  of  lioman  antiquity-  have  been  discovered  on 

^  111  the  tenth  century,  according  to  that  probability  the  descendants  of  the  ancient 
■«-andering  Jew,  ISenjamin  of  Tiidela,  Pita  forests,  where  Rutilius,  when  weather- 
was  but  four  miles  inhmd  ;  and  as  in  Strabo's  bound,  amused  himself  with  hunting  the 
time  it  was  only  two  miles  and  a  half,  we  wild-boar  (I.  621 — 8).  The  city  is  called 
may  conclude  that  a  thousand  years  earlier  Pissa  or  Pissai  by  Lycophron,  Polybius,  and 
it  stood  almost  close  to  the  sea.     Strabo  Ptolemy. 

(loc.  cit.)  represents  the  water,  at  the  point  •'  Virg.    JEu.   X.    17'.b     He   calls  her — 

of  contlucnce  of  the  rivers,  rising  to  such  a  iirbs  Etrusca. 

height  in  mid  channel,  that  persons  standing  ''  ]\Iuller,  Etrusk.  II.    1,  '2.     Stralio  (V. 

on  the  opposite  banks  could  not  see  each  p.  223)  says  that  it  had  originally  been  a 

other.    Cf.  Pseudo-Aristot.  Mirab.   Auscult.  flourishing  city.     Mannert  (Geog.  p.  339), 

c.  94.     Colonel  Mure  remarks  the  similarity  though  he  does  not  regard  it  as  one  of  the 

of  sits   of  the   Pisa  of  Etniria  with  that  Twelve,  calls  it ' '  the  natural  rampart  and 

of  Greece — both  occupied  "a  jtrecisely  f  rontier- wall  of  Etruria  towards  the  north." 
similar  i-egion,  a  low,  warm,   marshy  Hat,  ^  Polyb.  II.  27. 

interspersed  with  pine-forest."     Travels  in  ■'*  Liv.  XXI.  39  ;  XXXIII.  43  ;  XXXIV. 

Greece,   II.   p.   283.     The   analogy  of  site  -){];  XXXV.  21;  XL.   41  ;  XLI.   5.     Pre- 

may  explain  the  identity  of  name  ;  which  viously,  in  the  Second  Punic  War,   Scipio 

Mure  is  doubtful  whether  to  derive  from  had  made  use  of  its  port.  Polyb.  III.  ij(\ 
v7aos — a  marsh — or  from  iriaaa — the  fir  or  ^  Liv.  XL.  43.     Festus  calls  it  a  miuil- 

pine-tree.      The  former,    or  an  equivalent  clpium.     Pliny  (III.  8)  and  Ptolemy  (Geog. 

derivation,  is  favoured  by  Stralm  (VIII.  j).  j).  72)  mention  it  among  the  Kmiian  colonies 

356),  and  by  Eustathius  (ail  Horn.   Iliad.  in  Etruria. 

XX.    9)  ;    but  the  latter  derives  support  '  Strabo,  V.   ]>.  223.      Pliny  also  .^^pcaks 

from  the  actual  exi.stence  of  ijine-woods,  of  its  grain  (XVIII.  20),  of  its  grapes  (XIV. 

both  around  the  city  of  Elis,  and  also  on  4,  7),  and  of   its  wonderful  springs,  Avhere 

this  coast,  in  the  royal  Cascine,  where  they  frogs   found    themselves    litei'ally    in    hot 

jBver  some  square    miles,   and  are  in   all  Mater  (II.  106), 


72  PISA.  [cirAP.  XXXIX. 

the  spot ;  but.  \vitli  the  exception  of  sundry  sarcojihagi,  broken 
statues,  and  numerous  inscrii^tions,  nothing  remains  above 
ground  beyond  some  mean  traces  of  baths,  and  two  marble 
columns  with  Composite  capitals,  probably  belonging  to  the  vesti- 
bule of  a  temple  of  the  time  of  the  Antonines,  now  embedded  in 
the  ruined  churcli  of  San  Felice.-  As  to  the  city  of  the  Pelasgi 
and  Etruscans,  it  has  entirely  disappeared.  The  traveller  looks 
in  vain  for  a  stone  of  the  Avails,  which  from  the  exposed  position 
of  the  city  must  have  been  of  gi'eat  strength — in  vain  for  a  tumulus 
or  monument  on  the  surrounding  plain — the  city  of  tbe  dead,  as 
well  as  that  of  the  living,  of  that  early  period,  is  now  lost  to  the 
eye.  Yet  the  necropolis  of  Pisa  does  exist;  and  traces  of  it  have 
been  found,  not  onh-  on  the  neighbouring  hills  of  S.  Giuliano 
and  Yecchiano,  on  the  side  towards  Lucca,  where  are  numerous 
tumuh,  now  broken  down  and  defaced,  so  as  hardly  to  be  recog- 
nised as  artificial ;  but  also  to  the  west  of  Pisa,  in  the  royal 
tenuta  of  S.  Eossore,  where,  in  the  winter  of  1848-9,  Signor 
Francois  found  numerous  sand-hills,  now  far  inland,  which  he 
proved  b}'  excavation  to  be  artificial  and  sepulchral,  ^delding 
beautiful  Greek  vases  with  red  figui'es  in  a  severely  archaic  stA'le.'* 
The  only  relics  of  Etruscan  antiquity  now  at  Pisa  are  a  few- 
sarcophagi  and  urns  in  that  celebrated  sepulchral  museum,  the 
Campo  Santo.^  Even  these  were  not  found  on  the  spot.  The 
eye  experienced  in  Etruscan  remains  at  once  recognises  them 

-  Kepetti,  IV.  pp.   305,  372  ;  Dempster  ■•  There  are  some  small  copper  coins  •n-ith 

(II.  p.  2iS)  inters  from  Seneca  (Thyestes,  the  head  of  AIercur>-  on  the   obverse,  and 

L  123)  that  Pisa  was  anciently  renowned  an  owl,  with  the  legend  Peithesa,  in  Etrus- 

for  her  towers  ;  but  the  true  reading  is —  can  cliaracters,  on  the  revei"se,  which  most 


"  Pisseisque  domos  ciirribus  inclytas," 


probably  belong  to  Pisa.     The  opinion  of 
early  Italian  antiquaries  was  generally  in 

and  the  line  refers  to  the  city  of  Elis.     The  favour  of  Perusia  ;  Lanzi  (Sagg.  II.  jjp.  27, 

Italian  Pisa,    however,   was  renowned  for  7(3)  hints  at  the  Arretium  Fidens  of  Pliny, 

her  towers  in  the  middle  ages.     Benjamin,  Sestini  (Geog.  Is'umis.  II.  p.  5)  was  hardly 

the  Jew  of  Tudela,  who  lived  in  the  tenth  less  extravagant  in  a.scribing  these  coins  to 

century,  records  that  nearly  10,000  towers  Veii  (cf.  ilionnct,  f^uppl.  I.  p.  204).     They 

were  to  be  counted,  attached  to  the  houses  have  also  l;een  assigned  to  Pitinum  in  Um- 

— verily,  as  old  Faccio  degli  Uberti  says  of  bria  ;    but    AliJller    (Etrusk,    I.    p.    33S) 

Lucca — "  a  f/uiaa  d' un  boscJteto."     Other  suggests   that  Peithesa    may   Ite   the   old 

chroniclers  increase  this  number  to  15,000;  Etruscan    form    of    Pissa  :     and    Cramer 

and  Petrarch  vouches  for  a  great  multitude.  (Ancient  It;dy,  I.  p.  173)  remarks  that  if 

2  These  tombs  lay  so  close  together  that  we  sujtpose  its  pronunciation  to  have  been 

he  could  not  doubt  that  this  was  the  ne-  Pithsa,  it  would  not  be  far  from  the  lissa 

cropolLs  of  ancient  Pisji.      He  found  traces  of  Lycophron.       ilillingen    (Xumis.    Anc. 

of  similar  sepulture  at  intervals  all  across  Ital.  p.  170)  thinks  that  these  coins  belong 

the  plain  from  Pisa  to  the  mountains  of  to  some  forgotten  town,  near  Todi  in  Umbria, 

Leghorn,  where  Etruscan  tombs  have  also  because  they  are  generally  found   in  that 

been  discovered.      Lull.   Inst.    1849,   pj).  neighbourhood. 
22-24. 


CHAP.  xxxix.J     ETEUSCAX   UENS  IX   THE   CA^rPO   SANTO.  73 

as  the  roha  of  Yoltena.  Tlicv  were  found  at  ^lorruua,  iu  tlic 
neij^-hbourliood  of  that  town,  and  presented  in  1808  to  the  city 
of  Pisa.  There  is  nothing  among  them  of  remarkable  interest. 
Most  of  them  are  small  square  cinerary  urns,  or  "  ash  chests," 
as  the  Germans  term  tliem,  -with  stunted  and  distorted  figures  on 
the  lids.  One  of  these  recumbent  figures  holds  an  open  scroll, 
Avith  an  I^truscan  inscription  in  red  letters.  Among  the  reliefs 
are — a  Ijancpiet;  a  sacrifice;  a  soul  in  a  qiuKJy'Kja,  conducted 
to  the  shades  by  Charun,  armed  Avith  his  hammer  ;  an  Amazon 
defending  her  fallen  comrade  from  a  bear,  which  emerges  from 
a  Avell ;  Orestes  persecuted  by  a  l^'ury  ;  Neoptolemus  on  an  altar, 
defending  himself  against  Orestes,  who  rushes  up,  sword  in 
hand,  to  slay  him;  the  parting  of  Admetus  and  Alcestis ;  a 
grifibn  contending  with  three  Avarriors.  But  the  most  interesting 
Etruscan  monument  here,  though  of  wretched  art,  is  an  urn,  on 
whose  lid  reclines  a  female  figure  holding  a  vhyton,  or  drinking- 
cup,  in  the  shape  of  a  horse's  fore -quarters.  In  the  relief  below 
is  represented  a  she-demon,  or  Fury,  winged,  torqued,  buskined, 
and  half-draped,  sitting,  spear  in  hand,  between  two  Avarriors. 
In  character  and  attitude  she  bears  a  strong  resemblance  to  one 
of  the  demons  i^ainted  on  the  AA-alls  of  the  Grotta  del  Cardinal e 
at  Corneto,  Avho  sits  as  guardian  over  the  gate  of  Hell,  and 
probably  represents  the  Fury  Tisiphone — 

Tisiphoneque  sedens,  palla  siiccincta  cruenta. 
Vestibulum  exsomnis  servat  noctesque  diesqiie." 

In  duty  bound,  I  have  noticed  these  Etruscan  relics.  Yet 
few  Avho  visit  this  silent  and  solemn  corner  of  Pisa,  Avhere  the 
grandeur  and  glory  of  the  city  are  concentrated,  are  lilcely  to 
give  them  much  attention.  Few  Avill  turn  from  the  antique 
pomp,  the  mosque-like  magnificence  of  the  Cathedral — from  the 
fair  Avhite  marvel  of  the  Leaning  ToAver — from  the  cunningly 
Avrought  pulpit  and  font  of  the  Baptistery — or  even  from  the 
frescoed  A'isions,  the  grotesque  solenmities  of  the  Campo  Santo, 
to  examine  these  uncoutli  memorials  of  the  early  possessors 
of  the  laud. 

^  Virir.  Jiu.  VI.  555. 


]iTRUSCA\    CIlIM.EilA,     l.N    mi'jSiK. 


CHArXER    XL. 

FIEENZE.— i^Z  on  E  NT  I  A . 

Florence,  beueatli  the  sun, 

Of  cities,  fairest  one  I — Siiellky. 

Di  te,  Donna  dell'  Arno,  anch'  io  favellj. 
Til,  in  regio  trono  alterauiente  assisa, 
L'imjierioso  ciglio 
Volgi  air  Etriuia  1 — Filkaja. 

Florence,  the  Athens  of  modern  Italy,  in  the  days  of  Etruscan 
greatness  and  of  the  earliest  civilisation  of  the  land,  Avas  nought. 
She  cannot  claim  an  origin  higher  than  the  latter  years  of  the 
Jioman  Piepublic.^     Yet  she  may  be  regarded  as  the  representa- 


^  Frontiniis  (de  Coloniis,  p.  13,  ed.  T58S) 
says  Florentia  was  a  colony  of  the  Trium- 
virate, established  under  the  Lex  Julia  ; 
■which  has  led  some  to  conclude  that  such 
was  the  date  of  her  foundation.  Rei>etti, 
II.  pp.  108,  150.  Yet  Florus  (III.  21) 
ranks  her  with  Spoletium,  Interaniniuni, 
and  PrEeneste,  tho.se  "  mo.st  splendid  mu- 
nirlpia  of  Italy,"  which,  in  the"civil  war.s 
of  Marius  and  Sylla,  suffered  from  the 
vengeance  of  the  latter.  Some  editions 
have  "Fluentia,"  hut  this  can  be  no  other 
than  Florentia,  as  the  same  name  is  given 


by  riiny  (III.  8)  in  his  li.st  of  the  colonies 
in  Etruria — Fhientini  pra-fluenti  Arno  op- 
positi.  Cluvc.-  (11.  p.  508)  admits  the 
higher  antiipiity  ;  while  JIannert  (Greog. 
p.  293)  thinks  the  city  dates  its  origin 
from  the  Ligurian  wars.  In  the  reign  of 
Tiberius,  Florentia  was  an  important  niu- 
iticipiam,  one  of  tho.se  which  sent  deputies 
to  Rome,  to  deprecate  alterations  in  the 
course  of  the  tributaries  of  the  liber; 
their  plea  being  that  if  the  Clanis  were 
diverted  into  the  Arnus,  it  would  bring 
destruction    on    their    territory.       Tacit. 


CHAP.  XL.]  THE    ETRUSCAN    MUSEUM.  75 

tive  of  the  ancient  Etrnscan  cit}'  of  Fjesuke,  wliose  inhabitants  at 
an  early  iieriod  removed  from  their  rocky  heights  to  the  banks  of 
the  Arno" — an  emigration  in  which  Dante,  in  liis  Ghibelline 
wrath,  finds  matter  of  vituperation — 

qucUo  ingrato  popolo  maligno, 
Che  di.scese  di  Fiesole  ab  antico, 
E  tiene  ancor  del  monte  e  del  macigno — 

though  it  wouhl  puzzle  a  i)oet  now-a-days  to  lind  an}-  analogy 
between  the  courteous  and  polished  Florentines  and  the  rugged 
crags  of  Fiesule. 

MusEO  Etrusco. 

It  is  not  my  province  to  make  further  mention  of  Florence, 
than  to  notice  the  collection  of  antiquities  gathered  from  various 
sites  in  Etruria,  and  now  preserved  in  the  National  Museum  in 
this  city. 

This  collection  has  of  late  been  removed  from  the  Uffizj  to 
the  Museo  Egizio  in  the  Via  Faenza.  It  is  open  in  summer 
from  ten  to  four,  and  in  winter  from  nine  to  three.  Admission 
one  franc  ;  on  Sundays  free. 

Black  Pottery,  or  Bucciiero. 

First  Boom. — The  first  room  you  enter  contains  the  black, 
unglazed  ware  of  Etruria,  commonly  called  hnccJiero.  It  is  coarse, 
unbaked  jiotter}-;  its  forms  are  uncouth,  its  decorations  grotesque, 
its  manufacture  rude  in  the  extreme,  and  it  has  little  aiiistic 
beaut}',  yet  it  is  of  extraordinary  interest  as  illustrative  of 
Etruscan  art  in  its  earliest  and  purest  stages,  ere  it  had  been 
subjected  to  Hellenic  influences. 

The  stranger  here  finds  himself  in  a  new  Avorld  of  Etruscan 
art,  for  this  characteristic  and  genuinely  Etruscan  ware  is  not  to 
be  seen  in  the  INIuseo  Gregoriano  at  Bome,  or  in  the  British 
Museum,  or,  save  to  a  limited  extent,  in  tlic  Louvre,  or,  I  believe, 

Aniial.    I.    79.     Vestiges   of    her   Roman  -  The  fact  is  not  stated  by  the  ancients, 

magnificence   remain  in  tlie  ruins  of  the  but  has  for  ages  been  traditional.     Inghi- 

aniphitheatre    near   the    Piazza   di    Santa  rami  (Guida  di  Fiesole,   p.  24)  refei-s  the 

Croce.  emigration  to  the  time  of  Sylla  ;  llepetti 

Li vy  (X.  25)  speaks  of  an  Etruscan  town,  (loc.  cit.)  to  that  of  Augustus.     According 

Aharna,  or  as  some  reading.s  have  it,   Ad-  to   old  Faccio  degli   Uberti,   the    city  re- 

hamalia,  which  Lanzi  translates  Ad  Arnum,  ccived  its  name  from  the  "flower-basket" 

and  tliinks  that  Florence  may  be  indicated  in  which  it  is  situated. 
(Sagg.  I.    p.  377  ;  II.  p.  391)  ;    but  from  j^j  fiu^  gij  hahitanti  per  mcmoria 

the    context   it   appears   that   Livy   could  Che  Icra  posta  en  un  gran  cest  de  fiori, 

hardly  refer  to  a  city  so  di.stant  from  Rome.  Gli  dono  el  nome  bello  unde  sen  gloria. 


76  riREXZE.  [CHAP.  XL. 

in  any  otlier  public  collection  in  Europe,  save  at  Cliiusi,  and  at 
Palermo,  Avhicli  now  contaii.s  the  Museo  Casuccini,  once  the 
glory  of  the  former  city. 

This  ancient  pottery  is  so  arranged  in  this  room  that  the 
inquirer  can  readily  trace  its  progi-ess  from  its  earliest  and  rudest 
beginnings  to  its  development  in  the  well-known  ware  of  Cliiusi 
and  its  neighbourhood.  Case  I.  contains  the  most  archaic  vases, 
of  brown  clay  without  any  glaze,  and  not  baked,  but  merely  sun- 
dried,  clumsily  shaped  by  the  hand,  not  by  the  lathe;  imitations,  it 
may  be,  of  pots  hollowed  from  blocks  of  wood — .just  such  pots,  in 
fact,  as  are  made  now-a-days  by  the  naked  Indians  of  South 
America,  or  as  were  fashioned  of  old  by  the  primitive  Celts  and 
Teutons."  Few  show  any  decorations,  and  those  are  mere  circles 
scratched  round  the  body  of  the  vase,  or  incised  lines,  or  punc- 
tured dots,  Avith  a  very  rude  attempt  at  design. 

Case  II.  exhibits  the  earliest  specimens  of  Etruscan  black 
ware,  still  extremely  rude  both  in  form  and  decoration,  yet  show- 
ins  an  advance  on  the  brown.  Though  wrought  by  the  hand, 
tills  ware  sometimes  bears  a  slight  lustre.  It  is  either  plain,  or 
rudely  scratched  Avith  patterns  some  of  which  are  familiar,  as 
chevrons  or  meanders,  others  of  more  uncouth  design.  One  pot 
has  large  concentric  squares;  another,  found  at  Orvieto,  is  very 
rudely  made,  and  carelessly  decorated  with  meanders  ;  a  third  from 
Cortona  has  three  bauds  of  varied  ornaments  on  the  neck,  and  a 
broad  belt  on  the  body  of  the  vase,  all  simply  scratched  on  the  clay. 

In  Case  III.  begins  the  earliest  black  ware  of  Chiusi,  with 
figures  in  relief,  of  which  a  vase  on  the  lowest  shelf  offers  a  curious 
example ;  and  you  can  trace  the  progress  of  this  pottery  round 
the  room,  till  in  Cases  XI^'.  and  XA\  you  see  it  in  its  highest 
development,  retaining  the  old  forms,  but  improved  in  elegance, 
and  displaying  a  certain  degree  of  polish. 

This  ware,  which  is  almost  peculiar  to  Chiusi,  Sarteano,  Cetona, 
and  the  neighbourhood,  consists  of  tall  awphorce,  or  oliue,  Avith 
cock-crowned  lids,  or  of  quaint,  knobbed  jars  or  pots  Avitli  strange 
figures  in  relief — veiled  female  heads,  grinning  nuisks,  tusk- 
gnashing  gorgons,  divinities  of  most  ungodlikc  aspect,  sphinxes, 
liegasi,  chimeras  of  many  a  will  conception,  couching  hons  or 
panthers,  and  many   a  grotesque   specimen  of  beast,  fowl,  fish, 

•■'  Dr.  Birch  (Ancient   Pottery,   p.   44.'!,  it   i.s   often   scarcely  to  Le   distinguished 

2nd  edit.)  points  out  tlie  reseniljhuice  tliis  from  the  Celtic  ware  of  France  and  Britain, 

brown  ware  bears  to  the  Teutonic   vases  Thepottcryof  racesina  lowstageof  civilisa- 

found  on  the  banks  of  the  Rhine,  and  says  tion  is  pretty  similar  all  the  world  over. 


CHAP.  XI.]         THE   BLACK  POTTERY   OF   ETUURIA. 


and  tiower — symbols,  it  may  be,  of  the  earliest  creed  and  rites  of 
the  Etruscans,  or  dim  allusions  to  their  long-l'orgotten  myths. 

The  oriental  character  of  this  pottery  is  manifest  in  its  decora- 
tions, and  its  forms  are  rude  and  clumsy,  in  comparison  with 
those  of  Greek  vases,  seeming  to  indicate  a  far  more  primitive 
epoch,  and  a  very  inferior  civilisation.  The  smaller  ware — the 
jugs,  pots,  and  goblets, 
with  handles  decorated  with 
every  form  of  life,  real  or 
mireal,  and  with  bands  of 
minute  figures  of  myste- 
rious impoi-t,  and  of  Egyp- 
tian rigidity — are  not  less 
archaic  and  curious,  though 
not  strictly  confined  to  the 
said  district  of  Etruria. 

On  the  upper  shelves 
are  not  a  few  of  the  tall 
slender-necked  vases  with 
a  cock  or  a  dove  on  the 
lid,  and  with  veiled  hirvw, 
or  the  spirits  of  the  dead, 
and  other  quaint  devices 
studding  them  in  relief,  as 
shown  in  the  strange  jug, 
illustrated  in  the  annexed 
woodcut.  It  will  be  found 
in  Case  VI.,  and  is  num- 
bered 1709.  This  vase  was 
probably  purely  sepulchral. 
The  animals   in  the    lower 

band  are  lions,  carrying  stags,  convenientlv  packed  on  their 
shoulders,  as  a  fox  carries  a  goose.  Wild  beasts  with  their  prey 
are  most  common  sepulchral  emblems,  not  only  on  Etruscan  but 
on  Oriental  and  early  Greek  monuments.^  The  heads  in  the 
upper  band  seem  to  have  an  analogy  with  the  s'dJtoticttcs  on  the 
painted  pottery  of  Volterra.  The  three  things  between  them 
appear  to  be  alahdHtl — common  sepulchral  furniture.  The  horse 
is  a  well-known  funereal  emblem,  indicative  of  the  passage  from 
one  state  of  existence  to  another.  The  eyes  scratched  on  the 
s^jout  liave  evidently  an  analogy  to  those  so  often  painted  on  the 

"  See  Vol.  I.,  p.  301. 


ARCHAIC    BLACK   A'ASE    FROM    CIIIUSI. 


78 


FIREXZE. 


[chap.   XL. 


Hellenic  vases ;  and  have  probably  the  same  symbolic  meaning. 
The  heads  Avliich  stud  the  handle  and  top  of  this  vase  are 
supposed  to  be  those  of  Larva,  or  the  spirits  of  the  defunct. 

This  ware,  be  it  observed,  is  not  baked,  but  merely  sun-dried, 
unglazed,  and  imperfectly  varnished,  and  often  incai:)able  of  re- 
taining liquid.  Hence  it  may  be  inferred  that  much  of  it  was 
made  expr^sl}'  for  sepulclu'al  purposes.  It  is  certainly  more 
truly  illustrative  of  the  religious  creed  of  the  Etruscans  than  the 
painted  pottery  found  in  the  tombs.  The 
cock  v,-hich  crests  so  many  of  these  jars 
must  have  had  a  sepulchral  reference, 
though  of  Avhat  it  is  symbolical  is  not 
evident ;  perhaps  of  the  funeral  games,  as 
we  know  this  bird  Avas  introduced  in  Greek 
art  as  the  symbol  of  athletic  contests. 

On  the  middle  shelf  of  the  same  case 
stand  a  few  canopi — vases  shaped  like  the 
head  and  shoulders  of  a  man,  the  effigy  of 
him  whose  ashes  were  deposited  within. 
These  curious  Egyptian-like  pots  are  found 
chiefly  at  Cliiusi.  Those  in  Case  VI.  are 
the  most  worthy  of  notice.  The  central 
one  has  the  head  of  an  ox,  with  an  open 
mouth  for  a  spout,  and  bears  very  singular 
reliefs  of  bulls,  each  hobbled  and  held  by 
a  man.  Another  also  is  peculiar,  repre- 
senting the  upper  half  of  a  man,  Avhose 
head  is  fastened  to  his  shoulders  b}'  a 
metal  pin.  The  vase  shown  in  the  annexed  Avoodcut,  with  its 
lid  in  the  form  of  a  cap  tufted  hy  a  bird,  is  a  good  specimen  of 
an  Etruscan  canopns. 

On  the  lower  shelves  are  several  circular  bowls  with  upright 
handles,  which  give  them  the  api^earance  of  baskets  (as  in  Cases 
YIL,  YIII.) — singular  stands,  which  for  want  of  a  better  name, 
and  in  ignorance  of  their  purpose,  have  been  styled  "  asparagus 
holders"  (Case  YIL), — a  variety  of  drinking-cups  with  bands  of 
minute  Egyptian-like  figures  in  flat  relief, — some  ol)long  strips  of 
black  ware,  commonly  called  lararine,  or  slates,  or  abaci,  but  which 
the  late  Professor  Migliarini,  when  Director  of  this  Museum,  used 
jocularly  to  term  Etruscan  "visiting-cards,"  and  which  were  pro- 
bably writing-tablets  (Case  YIL). 

But  perhaps  the  most  curious  articles  in  this  black  ware  are 


CANOPUS    FKOM    CHIUSI. 


CHAP.  XL.]      FOCOLArj,    OR    EAETIIENWARE    TRAYS. 


79 


the  focohiri,  or  ricipkiitl  as  they  ure  called,  of  wliich,  however, 
there  are  no  superior  specimens  in  this  collection.  And  how,  oh 
reader !  shall  I  make  thee  understand  what  afocolare  is?  It  is  a 
square,  paw-footed,  wall-sided  tra}-  of  earthenware,  half  open  in 
front,  set  about  with  prominent  figures  of  veiled  women,  supposed 
to  represent  the  spirits  of  the  dead,"'  or  of  winged  demons, 
masks,  or  chim.eras  :  and  it  contains,  when  found  in  the  tomb, 
the  strangest  set  of  odds  and  ends  of  crockery,  Avliich  have, 
naturally  enough,  been  mistaken  for  a  tea-service  in  its  tray/^ 
Indeed  the   resemblance    to   that  homely   piece   of  furniture    is 


FEMALE    HEAD    OX    Till 
Fl.SH-VASE. 


JL'G    IN'    THE    FORM    OF    A    FISH. 


striking,  though  the  sugar-basins  inconveniently  outnumber  the 
cups  and  saucers  ;  but  there  are  these,  as  well  as  milk- jugs,  and 
spoons  and  ladles,  all  of  the  same  black  ware.  It  is  just  such  a 
quaint,  clumsy,  primitive  thing  as  you  could  imagine — peculiari- 
ties of  art  apart — might  have  served  as  a  tea-tray  in  the  time  of 
Alfred,  if  our  sturdy  Saxon  ancestors  could  have  condescended 
to  such  effeminate  potations.  Certain  strange  articles,  however, 
«[uite  upset  the  tea-tray — iinf/iicntarui,  or  perfume-bottles,  and 
vases  in  the  shape  of  cocks,  ducks,  and  other  animals.  Such  a 
pot,  for  instance,  as  that  shown  in  the  above  woodcut,  which  is 
in  the  form  of  a  fish,  with  a  woman's  head  (Case  YII.). 

The  purpose  these  focohiri  served  is  matter  of  dispute.     Some 
think  them  intended  for  the  toilet,  and  the  pots  and  pans  for 


•'  Ingliiraiiii  opines  that  these  heails  of 
Larva?  were  introduced  on  this  pottery  to 
remind  survivors  of  their  duties  in  per- 
orming  the  sepulchral  rites.     Mus.  Chius. 


I.  p.  17.     Gerhard  thinks  they  may  have 
reference  to  the  sacerdotal  costume  of  the 
Etruscans.    I'.hII.  Inst.  1S31,  p.  f.S. 
''  Sepulchres  of  Etruria,  p.  444. 


60  FIREXZE.  [CHAP.  XL. 

perfumes  ;  others  take  them  for  culiuarv  apparatus,  or  braziers  ; 
Avhile  others  regard  them  as  purely  sepulchral  in  application  and 
meaning.  If  the  latter  \iev,  be  correct,  I  should  still  consider 
them  as  imitations  of  domestic  furniture  once  actualh'  in  use, 
and  pertaining  rather  to  the  trid'tHiinn  than  to  the  toilet.  Those 
wliich  are  raised  from  the  ground  by  claw-feet,  seem  intended  to 
stand  over  a  tire.  In  domestic  life  they  were  probably  used  to 
keep  meats  or  liquids  hot,  like  the  cscJiane,  or  braziers,  found  at 
Pompeii.  At  the  sepulchre  they  may  have  served  the  same 
purpose  for  the  funeral  feast,  or  they  may  have  been  for  fumiga- 
tion, equivalent  to  the  censers  or  wheeled  cars  of  bronze, 
thymiateria,  sometimes  found  in  early  Etruscan  tombs." 

AVithin  this  chamber  is  one  fitted  up  as  an  Etruscan  tomb, 
representing  the  Tomba  Golini,  opened  in  1863,  near  Orvieto,  with 
exact  copies  of  the  paintings  which  decorate  its  walls.  The  door 
with  its  stone  slabs  working  in  sockets  made  in  the  threshold  and 
lintels,  is  ancient,  but  taken  from  a  tomb  at  Chiusi.  The  walls 
of  both  the  chambers  into  which  the  tomb  is  divided,  are  covered 
with  figures  of  great  interest  and  considerable  beauty,  a  detailed 
<lescrij)tion  of  Avliich  I  have  already  given  when  treating  of  the 
necropolis  of  Orvieto,^  and,  therefore,  have  only  to  add  for  the 
satisfaction  of  those  who  have  not  seen  the  originals,  that  these 
are  ver}'  faithful  transcripts,  and  that  the  subjects  are  seen  to 
much  more  advantage  here  than  in  the  tomb  itself,  where  from 
the  intense  humidity  the  figures  are  not  easily  distinguished  from 
the  ground  on  which  thev  are  painted. 

In  the  window  is  a  tall  amplwra  from  Pompeii,  with  figures 
painted,  and  two  linge  (onjiJione  from  Basilicata  in  the  florid  style. 

Painted  Pottery. 

Second  Room. — The  next  room  contains  a  collection  of 
figured  vases.  The  old  Government  of  Tuscany  did  not  avail 
itself  of  the  opportunity  it  possessed  of  forming  the  finest  collec- 
tion of  Etruscan   antiquities  in  the  world.     Most  of  the  articles 

'   Iiij,'liiramitlj!rikstliey  were  not  actually  (yol.  I.    i>.  2()7  ;  ef.  Mas.  Chius.  tav.  39; 

used  as  braziers,  Lut  were  left  in  the  tomb,  Micali,    ilon.    Ined.    tav.   8,    p.    (i6),   and 

at  the  close  of  the  funeral  ceremonies,  as  specimens    of    the    ordinary    braziers    of 

substitutes  for  those  of  bronze  which  had  Etruscan    sepulchres    are    to    be   seen    in 

been  used.    Mus.  Chiusino,  I.  p.  29.     These  almost  every  mussum  of  such  antiquities, 

wheeled  cars  or  censers  have  been  found  in  For  illustrations  see  ^licali,  Ant.  Pop.  Ital. 

the  most  ancient  tomlis,   viz.   the   Grotta  taw.     26,    27  ;    Inghirami,    Mus.    Chius. 

diside  at  Vulci  (see  Vol.  I.  p.  461),   and  taw.  31,  32,  40. 

the   Grotta   Re^ulini-Galassi    at  Cervetri  "  See  Chap.  XYXVII.  p;-.  52-61. 


CHAP.  XL.]  TnE    FEAN^OIS    VASE.  81 

discovered  in  the  Duchy  passed  to  Home  or  into  foreign  countries, 
— comparatively  little  found  its  way  to  Ilorence.  With  this 
apathy  at  head-quarters,  the  collection  of  vases  cannot  he 
expected  to  he  extensive,  although  much  has  since  heen  done  bv 
the  Italian  Government  to  enrich  it.  Yet  it  is  characteristic. 
Most  of  the  Etruscan  sites  within  the  limits  of  Tuscany  are  here 
rei)resented  by  their  i)ottery,  and  there  are  even  some  good  vases 
from  other  districts  of  Italy ;  collected,  of  old,  I  believe,  by  those 
princely  patrons  of  art,  the  Medici. 

The  chief  glory  of  this  collection  strikes  the  eye  on  entering. 
It  stands  in  a  glass  case  in  the  middle  of  the  room.  It  is  a 
huge,  wide-mouthed  hrater,  the  largest  painted  vase,  perhaps, 
ever  found  in  Etruria — certainly  unrivalled  in  the  variet}'  and 
interest  of  its  subjects,  and  the  abundance  of  its  inscriptions. 
It  is  about  twenty-seven  inches  in  height,  and  little  less  in 
diameter ;  and  has  six  bands  of  figures,  all  in  the  Archaic  Greek 
style — black,  tinted  with  white  and  red,  on  the  yellow  ground  of 
the  clay.  It  has  eleven  distinct  subjects,  eight  of  which  are  heroic, 
some  quite  novel ;  and  no  fewer  than  one  hundred  and  fifteen 
explanatory  epigraphs  ;  besides  the  names  of  the  potter  and  artist. 
The  design,  as  in  all  vases  of  this  style,  is  quaint  and  hard,  yet 
the  figures  are  full  of  expression  and  energy,  and  are  often  drawn 
with  much  minuteness  and  delicacy.  Unfortunately  it  was  found 
broken  into  numerous  pieces  ;  it  has  been  tolerably  well  restored, 
but  some  fragments  are  still  wanting.  Yet  even  in  its  imperfect 
state  it  is  so  superb  a  monument,  that  the  Tuscan  Government 
was  induced  to  relax  its  purse-strings,  and  purchase  it  for  one 
thousand  scudi. 

This  vase  may  be  called  an  Iliad,  or  rather  an  Achilleid,  in 
potter}',  for  its  subjects  have  especial  reference  to  the  great  hero 
of  the  Trojan  War — from  the  youthful  deeds  of  his  father,  and 
the  marriage  of  his  parents,  down  to  his  own  death,  interspersed 
with  mythological  episodes,  as  was  the  wont  of  the  bard, 
"  Whose  poem  Phojbus  clialleng-ed  for  his  own." 

This  "  king  of  Etruscan  vases,"  as  it  has  not  unaptly  been 
termed,  was  found  at  Eonte  Ilotella,  near  Cliiusi,  by  Signor 
Alessandro  Iran9ois  in  1845.^ 

In  the  same  case  are  a  few  choice  vases,  of  which  the  following 
are  most  Avorthy  of  notice  : — 

'  Further  notices  of  tliis  reuiaikalile  vase  Ann.  Inst.  1848,  p.  382  (Braun) ;  Bull. 
will  he  found  in  Buil.  In.st.  1S45,  i)p.  113-  Inst.  1863,  pp.  18S-]y2  (Brunn).  See 
119  (Braun) ;  and  pp.  210-214  ((Jurhaidj ;       also  tbe  Appendix  to  this  Chapter,  Note  1. 

VOL.    II.  ti 


82  FIRENZE.  [chap.  xl. 

Kylix. — Theseus  slaj'ing  the  Minotaur.  (Enochor. — Dionysus 
Avith  Mtenads.  Ki/lir. — ^lan  on  a  banqueting-couch.  (.Knoclioc. 
— Satyr  and  Mienad. 

The  glass  cases  round  the  room  contain  si^ecimens  of  Greek 
ceramic  art  in  its  different  styles  and  stages ;  but  all  discovered 
in  the  sepulchres  of  Etruria.  Cases  I.  to  V.  contain  archaic 
Greek  vases,  some  of  the  style  vulgarly  called  Babylonian  or 
IMupuician.  An  amphora,  in  Case  I.,  is  a  good  specimen  of  the 
transition  from  the  oriental  style  to  that  denominated  the  Archaic 
Greek.  In  the  same  Case  you  see  a  good  example  of  the  latter 
style,  with  black  figures,  representing  Hercules  and  Minerva  iji  a 
quadriga,  contending  with  the  Titans.  In  four  hi/Uhcs  on  the  top 
shelf,  you  have  specimens  of  the  vases  with  eyes,  so  difficult  of 
explanation  ;  and  one  of  them  bears  also  a  curious  scene  of  sat3'rs 
gathering  the  vintage.  An  amphora  shews  Apollo  seated  under 
a  palm-tree  playing  the  lyre  to  his  sister,  who  is  recognised  by 
her  quiver.  An  (i')inchoe  in  Case  lY.  has  a  singular  scene  of  two 
Satyrs,  each  bearing  a  Mtenad  on  his  shoulder,  and  a  large  wine- 
jar  in  his  hand.  Here  also  is  an  amphora,  with  Hercules 
bearing  the  Cercopian  brothers,  fastened  head-downwards  to  a 
pole,  which  he  carries  across  his  shoulder,  just  as  in  the  well- 
known  metope  from  tlie  temple  at  Sehnus.  The  legend  tells  us 
that  in  spite  of  their  uncomfortable  position  the  brothers  found 
matter  for  laughter ;  but  as  they  are  here  dei)icted,  witli  their 
hair  and  arms  depending  helpless!}'  in  the  air,  they  seem  rather 
m  a  condition  to  excite  a  smile  themselves,  than  to  raise  one  at 
the  expense  of  their  conqueror.  Another  vase  shows  Hercules 
"taking  a  cup  of  kindness"  Avith  his  patron,  "the  gre^'-eyed 
goddess." 

For  its  wonderful  state  of  preservation,  none  can  compete  with 
an  amphora  in  Case  Y.,  which  represents  the  myth  of  Philoctetes 
and  Ul^'sses.  In  the  same  Case  is  a  hijdrla,  displaying  a  spirited 
quadrifia. 

All  the  foregoing  are  of  the  Archaic  Greek  style,  with  black 
figures.  Cases  YI.  and  YII.  contain  vases  of  the  best  style,  with 
yellow  figures.  An  a;nochoe  in  Case  YI.  represents  a  marriage ; 
the  bride  veiled,  attended  by  her  proiinhit,  is  giving  her  hand 
at  a  column.  A  h<dpis  shows  Triptolemus  on  his  winged  car, 
between  Demeter  and  Persephone.  Anotlier  beautiful  vase  of  the 
same  form,  represents  Hermes  in  pursuit  of  the  nymph  Herse, 
whose  sisters  run  off  to  inform  their  father.  On  the  shoulder 
of  the  vase  two  naked  girls,  named  "Dorka"  and  "Selinike,"  are 


CHAP.  XL.]  PAINTED    VASES— A    COCK-HOES E.  83 

performing  the  Pyrrhic  dance,  to  the  great  admiration  of  other 
ladies  looking  on.  In  these  Cases  are  tall  amphone,  like  those 
of  Nola  and  Sicil}',  and  a  remarkable  krater  of  large  size,  showing 
Poseidon  striking  a  Titan  to  the  earth  with  a  huge  rock.  It  is  a 
psykter,  or  double  vase,  the  inner  for  the  wine,  the  outer  for  the 
snow  to  cool  it.  A  lidche  displa3'S  a  sjiirited  combat  between 
Oentaurs  and  Lapithie.  A  stanmos  shows  Hercules  playing  the 
double  pipes  between  two  SatjTS,  one  of  whom  carries  his  club.^ 

The  most  beautiful  of  these  vases  are  from  Yulci.  In  the 
•window  is  a  large  Iches,  of  archaic  art,  on  a  tall  stand,  and  here 
are  also  two  glass  cases  full  of  choice  fragments  of  Greek  potter}^, 
all  found  in  Etruscan  tombs. 

The  other  cases  in  this  room,  from  VIII.  to  XV.,  contain 
the  pottery  of  the  Decadence,  disi:)laying  comparatively  coarse 
forms,  careless  design,  inferior  taste,  and  love  of  the  nude ; 
resembling  the  ware  of  Magna  Greecia  rather  than  that  of  tlie 
jiure  Hellenic  st3de  more  commonly  found  in  Etruria ;  thougli  a 
few  of  the  vases  are  Archaic  Greek.  Some  are  from  Volteri-a, 
and  exliibit  the  characteristic  defects  of  her  pottery.  Several 
are  from  recent  excavations  at  Orvieto,  though  very  inferior  to 
the  produce  of  Mancini's  scavl,  as  seen  in  the  collection  of  the 
Conte  della  Faina  at  that  town,  which  is  of  a  much  earlier  and 
better  period. 

A  fragment  of  a  Greek  vase  in  the  central  glass-case  repre- 
sents a  curious  chimoera,  the  liippalcctryon — tlie  "  horse-cock," 
<»r  "  cock-horse" — mounted  by  a  youth,  as  shown  in  tlie  woodcut 
on  the  next  page.  This  monster  is  spoken  of  by  Aristophanes 
in  his  "Frogs,"  where  it  is  made  a  puzzle  to  Dion3'sus,  who 
declares  he  had  lain  awake  the  greater  part  of  the  night  trying 
to  find  out  what  sort  of  bird  it  could  be.  To  this  .Eschylus 
replies  that  it  was  known  as  a  device  painted  upon  sliips ;  and 
Euripides  adds  that  it  was  a  figure  such  as  was  often  represented 
on  Median  tapestr3\  Aristophanes  generally  qualifies  it  witli  tlie 
epitliet  ^ovOos,  or  "  tawny."  "  This  chim<era  has  also  been  found 
on  ancient  gems,  and  recently  on  a  cornelian  from  Arczzo.  It 
was  used  also  as  a  device  on  shields,  for  so  it  is  represented  on 
a  warrior's  buckler  on  an  amphora  from  Cliiusi." 

It  is  strange  to  find  so  ancient  and  classical  an  origin  for  our 

'  A  (lescriiition  of  some  of  the  vases  in       Pax.  1177. 
tins   collection   is  given   by   Heydemann,  '*  Sec   an   article   by  F.    G.  Qamurrini, 

Bull.  Inst.  1870,  PI..  180—187.  Ann.  Inst.  1874,  pp.  23tJ— 243. 

-  Aristoph.  Ran.  032,  937;  Aves,  800  ; 

r.  2 


84 


FIREXZE. 


[chap,  xr., 


old  friend  of  the  nurseiy,  and  an  illustration  of  the  familiar 
doggrel  in  this  fragment  of  Greek  pottery,  Avhich  may  well  date  as 
far  back  as  the  davs  of  the  oreat  comedian  of  Athens. 


HIl'PALECTRYON,    OR    "  COCK-IIOKSE,       FUOJI    A    GREEK    VASE 


UnPAIXTEU    PoTTErvY. 

Third  Room. — Case  I.  contains  a  mould  of  a  prett}'  female 
face,  found  at  Orvieto,  with  a  cast  from  it,  together  with  some 
early  red  dishes  from  Cervetri,  a  number  of  archaic  figures  of 
household  gods  from  various  sites,  and  votive  offerings  of  limbs, 
eyes,  breasts,  and  other  portions  of  the  human  frame,  as  well  as- 
representations  of  domestic  animals  and  cattle,  all  in  terra-cotta. 
In  Case  II.  is  a  collection  of  black  relieved  pottery,  of  the  latter 
days  of  Etruria,  of  elegant  forms  and  brilliant  polish,. imitations, 
for  the  most  part,  of  vases  in  metal,  some  decorated  with  beautiful 
reliefs.  Among  them  notice  a  graceful  Inttcr,  on  the  top  shelf, 
adorned  with  vine-leaves  and  fruit  in  relief,  and  two  phiaUe,  each 
with  a  spirited  race  of  four  qiifidrif)(C.  Case  III.  contains  speci- 
mens of  tlie  ungla/.ed,  uncoloured  pottery  recently  found  at 
Orvieto,  plain  in  material,  but  of  elegant  shapes,  and  decorated 


CHAP.  XL.]    UNPAINTED  WAEE— JEWELRY  AND   GLASS.  65 

^vitll  figures,  fruit,  and  foliage  in  relief.  Certain  vases  of  this 
description,  found  on  that  site,  were  originall}--  silvered  in  imita- 
tion of  metal,  and  one  pot  with  reliefs  retains  traces  of  gilding. 
Case  IX.  exhibits  Etruscan  heads  and  masks  in  terra-cotta ; 
generally  portraits,  which  were  buried  with  the  dead,  proljably  to 
recall  their  features  to  the  memory  of  surviving  relatives  on  their 
periodical  visits  to  the  tombs.  Here  observe  a  singular  relief  of 
Ulysses  lashed  to  the  mast  of  his  ship,  which  the  rowers  are 
urging  at  full  speed  through  the  waves,  to  escape  from  a  Siren, 
who  seizes  the  gunwale,  and  endeavours  to  stoj)  the  vessel. 
Notice  also  a  quaint  female  head,  in  ver}'  archaic  style,  with  hair, 
eyes,  and  ornaments  coloured — from  Orvieto.  Case  Y.  contains 
some  good  specimens  of  the  red  ware  of  Arretium;  also  a  few 
ancient  moulds  for  casting  the  same. 

Below  the  last  four  cases  are  some  curious  Caiiopl  of  red  and 
black  ware  ;  the  heads  fastened  to  the  pots  by  metal  pegs,  and  the 
arms  attached  to  the  handles  in  the  same  manner.  Each  head 
lias  a  hole  in  its  crown,  probably  to  let  oft"  the  effluvium.  Two  of 
these  poilrait-pots  are  throned  in  curule  chairs,  also  of  terra- 
cotta.    All  from  Chiusi. 

Flanking  the  doors  of  this  room  are  four  reliefs  in  terra-cotta, 
from  Sarteano. 

A  door  to  the  left  opens  into  a  small  chamber  filled  with  Greek 
vases  from  the  once  celebrated  Campana  Collection  at  liome. 
They  are  of  various  st^des  and  forms,  but  all  have  been  restored, 
and  imperfectly,  so  that,  although  some  have  evidently  been 
beautiful,  there  is  nothing  to  merit  a  particular  description. 

Jewelry  axd  Glass. 

Fourth  Eoom. — This  octagonal  chamber  contains  four  glass- 
cases.  In  that  to  the  left  are  exliibited  the  few  articles  of 
Etruscan  jewelry  which  grace  this  collection.  There  are  three 
necklaces,  and  several  chaplets  of  laurel  leaves  in  gold,  some 
massive  earrings,  from  which  depend  vases  of  delicate  Avork ;  but 
there  is  nothing  to  give  an  adequate  idea  of  the  exquisite  taste 
and  wonderful  elaboration  of  filagree-work  to  which  the  Etruscan 
jewellers  attained.  There  are  some  good  scarahei,  and  a  small 
figure  carved  in  amber.  In  the  case  opposite  is  a  choice  collection 
of  variegated  glass,  mostly  of  the  description  called  BabyloniiUi, 
though  found  in  Greek  and  Etruscan  tombs,  as  well  as  in  those 
of   Egypt  and   Assyria.     But   tlie   gem    of  tliis   case   is   a  tiny 


86  FIEEXZE.  [CHAP.  XL. 

amjjhora,  Avitli  uhite  figures  in  relief  on  a  Lluck  ground,  in  the 
style  of  the  Portland  vase,  though  very  inferior  in  size,  as  well 
as  in  art.  Among  the  gems  I  sought  in  vain  for  one  repre- 
senting two  Salii,  carrying  five  ancilia,  slung  on  a  pole  between 
them."* 

The  other  three  cases  contain  specimens  of  the  early  money  of 
Etruria — the  ces  rude  and  sirinatum — from  various  sites  of  that 
land,  as  well  as  the  ccs  grave  and  its  divisions,  from  Rome,  and 
other  cities  of  Latium;  hut  the  precise  localities  to  which  the 
coins  respectively  belong,  are  not  generally  indicated. 

Sepulcheal  Ixscriptions. 

Fifth  Eoom. — The  walls  of  this  long  gallery  are  covered  with 
large  sepulclmil  tiles,  bearing  inscriptions,  the  greater  part 
Etruscan,  but  a  few  Latin — all,  however,  from  Etruscan  ceme- 
teries. On  benches  below,  are  ranged  numerous  ash-chests  of 
terra-cotta,  and  on  shelves,  many  small  cinerary  pots,  also  in- 
scribed. Among  the  latter  is  one  from  Cliiusi,  bearing  the  name 
of  *'  Tarchu,"  a  name  rarely  seen  in  Etruscan  inscriptions  before 
the  discover}^  of  the  "Tomb  of  the  Tarquins "  at  Cervetri.* 
Another  bears  the  historic  name  of  "  Yipina" — Yibenna. 

Bronzes. 

Sixth  Eoom. — Here  stands  the  celebrated  statue  of  Minerva, 
found  at  Arezzo,  in  1534.  She  is  represented  nearly  of  life-size, 
with  lier  riaht  hand  and  arm  extended  as  in  the  act  of  haranguino-. 
Her  left  arm,  wrapt  in  her  drapery,  rests  on  her  hip.  Tlie  neck 
of  the  statue  has  suffered  much  from  corrosion ;  the  face  also  in 
a  less  degree.  The  sockets  of  the  eye's,  are  empty,  and  were 
probably  filled  with  gems.  Her  lilmatinn  which  hangs  over  her 
left  shoulder,  and  is  drawn  tightly  across  her  body  m  front, 
contrasts  with  the  many  small  folds  of  her  chiton,  which  reaches 
to  her  feet.  Her  liehnet  is  crested  with  a  serpent,  an  Etruscan 
feature.  Yet  the  pose  of  the  figure  is  Greek  rather  than  Etruscan, 
showing  great  ease  and  dignity  combined.  If  the  statue  be  really 
from  an  Etruscan  chisel,  it  betrays  the  influence  of  Greek  art  in 
no  sniiill  degree. 

■•  This  celebrated    gem,    illustrated  by  Roman  letters — "  Mi  Tesan  Keia  Tarchu 

Inghirami  (VI.   tav.    B.    5,   6)  ;  and  Goii  Mexaia."     Micali  gives  an  illustration  of 

(1.  tab.  19S),  is  in  the  Uffizj  collection.  this  pot  in  Mon.  Ined.  tav.  LV.  7. 

'  This  inscrijjtion  would   read  thus   in 


CHAP.   XI,.] 


BRONZE    STATUE    OF    MIXl^RVA. 


87 


The  cases  around  the  walls  of  this  octagonal  chaniher  are  filled 
with  bronzes.  In  that  to  the  right  as  you  enter,  are  some  singular 
figures,  three  male  and  one 
female ;  the  men  wearing 
helmets  of  an  unusual  and 
very  simple  form,  and  carry- 
ing short  lances,  which  they 
hold  with  both  liauds,  turn- 
ing their  heads  over  the 
left  sh(Kddcr.  Tlie  woman, 
draped  to  her  feet,  wears  a 
cap  shaped  very  like  the 
helmets,  and  her  hair  in 
long  tresses  before  and  be- 
hind. These  figures,  14 
inches  high,  though  dis- 
proportionately lanky,  have 
much  character,  and  difier 
Avidel}'  from  the  generality 
of  Etruscan  bronzes.  In 
the  same  case  are  two  war- 
riors of  S3'mmetrical  pro- 
portions, one  with  a  Greek 
helmet,  spear,  and  shield, 
in  the  attitude  of  attack ; 
a  number  of  small  idols, 
chiefl}'  female,  and  a  herd 
of  stags,  hares,  and  other 
animals,  all  in  bronze,  and 
all  found  at  a  spot  called 
Brolio,  in  the  Yal  di  Clii- 
ana,  now  recognised  as  an 
Etruscan  site.'' 

In  the  case  beyond  the 
Minerva  are  two  bronze 
figures  of  Etruscan  warriors;  the  larger,  about  a  foot  in  height, 
is  very  similar  to  the  beautiful  INIars  from  INIonte  Falterona,  now 
in  the  British  Museum.  His  helmet  has  a  straight  cockade  on 
each  side,  flanking  it  like  asses'  ears ;  he  wears  a  cuirass  and 
greaves,  and  carries  an  embossed  Argolic  buckler,  but  the  sword 
he  held  in  his  rijjlit  hand  is  gone.     Here   are  numerous  other 


1"   0  I  a  i  liotvyraiih. 
BRONZE    STATUE    OF    MIXEUVA,    FROM    AREZZO. 


For  a  description  of  these  bronzes,  see  ISuIl.  Inst.  1S64,  pp.  139-141,  Migliarini. 


88  FIEENZE.  [chap.  xl. 

archaic  figures  of  divinities  and  heroes ;  one  of  Athene  Pro- 
niachos,  in  a  tahiric  (7///OU ;  besides  centaurs,  pegasi,  and  other 
chiniteras,  with  sundry  figures  of  animals,  among  them  a  dog 
witli  an  Etruscan  inscription  on  his  hack — probably  a  votive 
otiVring."  A  pcfjasus  attempting  to  rear,  with  a  human  arm 
holding  up  his  fore-leg,  and  thus  restraining  him,  seems  to 
suggest  that  Rare}'  had  his  prototype  in  Etruria,  centuries  before 
the  Christian  era. 

The  next  case  contains  some  elegant  female  figures,  which 
formed  the  handles  to  mirrors,  or  patenc ;  several  groups  of 
warriors,  carrying  a  dead  or  wounded  comrade ;  also  two  winged 
Lasas  bearing  a  corpse.  These  groups  Avere  the  handles  to  the 
lids  of  the  so-called  "  ciste  mistlclie,"  the  toilet-cases  of  the 
Etruscan  fair.  Here  are  also  some  graceful  female  statuettes  of 
larger  size  than  usual,  and  two  prettj'  figures  of  youths  playing 
the  lyre,  and  dancing  with  castanets. 

The  case  opposite  the  Minerva  is  devoted  to  mirrors,  mostly 
from  Chiusi,  and  with  subjects  incised,  but  none  of  extraordinary 
beauty,  though  several  are  of  considerable  interest.  One  of  them 
is  remarkable  as  showing  how  incorrectly  and  confusedl}'  Greek 
myths  were  sometimes  rendered  by  Etruscan  artists.  The 
]nirror  is  in  excellent  preservation,  with  a  beautiful  green  patina, 
and  with  a  border  of  lotus-flowers.  It  represents  "  Eiasux  " 
(Jason),  with  a  cldamys  only  on  his  shoulders,  bowing  as  a 
suj^pliant,  and  embracing  the  knees  of  "  Piiuphluxs  "  (Dionysos) 
who  stands  in  front  of  a  temple,  indicated  by  a  pediment  and  an 
Ionic  column.  At  the  right  hand  of  the  god  stands  the  fair 
Ai'iadne — "  Aeatiia  " — clad  in  a  \ong  peplos,  who  looks  down  on 
the  suppliant  youth,  while  "  Kastur,"  (Castor)  standing  behind 
her,  and  a  little  winged  genius,  "  Amixtii,"  in  the  foreground, 
complete  the  scene.  It  is  evident  that  the  Etruscan  artist  has 
confounded  Jason  with  Theseus,  whom  he  probably  intended  to 
represent  imploring  Bacchus  to  restore  him  the  bride  he  had  so 
heartlessly  abandoned  in  the  island  of  Naxos.  The  mistake  is 
natural  enough,  seeing  that  both  those  heroes  deserted  the  nymphs 
they  had  seduced  from  the  paternal  roof.  The  mirror  was  found 
at  Bolsena,  and,  as  is  common  with  bronzes  from  that  district 
of  Etruria,  is  inscribed  with  the  word  "  Suthixa."  ^ 

Another  mirror  in  this  collection  has  peculiar  interest  on 
account  of    the   place    of    its    discovery- — iSestino,   the    ancient 

'  This  inscription  in  Romau  letters  woukl  ®  Bull.     Inst.,     1S70,     pp.      152-4. — 

be — "  S.  Calustia."  Gamurrini 


CHAP.  XL.]  MIIIRORS— CINERA-RY    URNS.  89 

SestiiiHin,  a  town  situated  anionic  the  Uinbrian  Ajionniiics,  near 
the  source  of  tlie  river  Pi^diii-iis  or  Foglia.  It  is  the  lirst  ohject 
of  Etruscan  antiquity  which  luis  heen  discovered  in  that  region. 
It  differs  from  ordinary  Etruscan  mirrors  in  heing  perfectly  ilat, 
like  the  mirrors  of  Greece  and  Eg3'i)t,  instead  of  concave ;  and 
also  in  displa^'ing  in  the  figures  incised  on  it,  not  a  subject  from 
the  Greek  mythology,  as  usual,  but  a  scene  of  native  and  rural 
life.  It  exhibits,  in  fiict,  a  rustic  dance  beneath  a  portico.  A. 
woman  clad  in  transparent  drapery,  like  the  nymphs  in  the  painted 
tombs  of  Corneto,  and  wearing  a  i)ointed  tutidus,  and  large  disk- 
ean'ings,  is  dancing  to  her  i^artner  opi)osite,  when  another  man 
from  behind  suddenly  seizes  her  round  the  waist.  Other  Avomen 
are  looking  on.  In  front  a  man  sits  on  the  ground,  holding 
a  dog  by  a  rope  attached  to  his  collar,  and  threatening  him 
with  a  stick.  Below  the  dancers  is  an  inscrii)tipn  in  Etruscan 
characters,  which  resembles  the  curious  epitaphs  on  the  tombs 
at  Orvieto,  "  Mi  .  Ma  .  lexa  .  larthia  .  puruhenas."^ 

The  last  case  contains  numerous  little  figures  of  deities  and 
Lares,  some  Roman,  but  many  genuine  Tiiscanica  si(jna,  to  be 
distinguished  by  their  archaic  and  often  grotesque  character. 
Some  are  as  rudely  misshapen  as  those  from  the  Nuraghe  of 
Sardinia,  or  the  early  sepulchres  of  Malta ;  others  are  fearfully 
elongated ;  others  have  all  the  Egyptian  rigidit}',  especially  the 
females,  many  of  whom,  with  one  foot  slightly  in  advance  of  the 
other,  are  holding  out  their  gowns  with  one  hand  as  if  preparing 
for  the  dance,  in  the  peculiar  attitude  which  characterizes  the 
Spes  and  the  Nemesis  of  the  Ilomans.  Certain  of  these  figures 
ftre  from  Arezzo ;  some  from  Bibbona  in  the  Tuscan  Maremma ; 
and  some  from  Adria,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Po. 

I  must  not  omit  to  notice  two  archaic  damsels  in  fetid  limestone, 
from  Chiusi,  very  similar  to  the  Proserpine  in  the  ]Museum  of 
that  io\m,  wdio  mount  guard  over  the  inner  door  of  this  chamber. 
I  recognised  them  as  formerly  in  the  Ottieri  collection  at 
Chiusi. 

Cinerary  Urxs. 

Seventh  and  Eighth  Booms. — In  the  centre  of  the  Seventh  Boom 
stands  the  Chim.era,  a  celebrated  work  in  bronze,  discovered  at 
Arezzo  in  1534,  at  the  same  time  as  the  Minerva.  It  is  the 
legitimate  compound, — 

'J  Lull,  Inst.,  1S7'>,  p.  8S  -Gaiiiunini.  '   lle.siod.  Theog.  323. 


90  FIEEXZE.  [ciiAP.  xl. 

having  the  hody  of  a  lion,  a  goat's  head  springmg  from  its  back, 
and  a  serpent  for  a  tail — the  hitter,  however,  is  a  modern  restora- 
tion. The  tigure  is  tull  of  expression.  The  goat's  head,  pierced 
through  the  neck,  is  already  dying,  and  the  rest  of  the  creature  is 
w]"ithing  in  agony  from  this  and  another  wound  it  has  received 
from  the  spear  of  Bellerophon.  The  style  of  art  much  resembles 
that  of  the  celebrated  AVolf  of  the  Capitol,  but  is  less  archaic  ;  and 
its  origin  is  determined  by  the  word  "  Tixskvil  "  in  Etruscan 
characters  carved  on  the  right  foreleg.^ 

Beliind  the  Chimtera  are  two  massive  slabs  of  ncufro,  with  very 
archaic  figures  of  animals  in  rude  relief,  in  square  compartments. 
They  seem  to  have  formed  the  cover-stones  to  a  tomb,  and  to 
have  been  laid  together  gable-wise. 

By  one  window  is  a  headless  female  of  marble,  life-size,  with  an 
Etruscan  inscription  of  two  lines  on  the  drapery.  From  a  hole 
in  the  neck,  it  appears  that  the  head  was  separate,  and  fitted  into 
the  trunk  with  a  plug,  as  is  the  case  with  many  figures  of  terra- 
cotta. By  the  other  window  is  a  curious  fiat  ntcle,  bearing  rehefs, 
on  one  side  displaying  a  sitting  female  figure  of  archaic  character; 
on  the  other  a  s2)hinx;  the  slab  terminating  above  in  an  antefixal 
ornament.  In  character  this  monument  bears  considerable  resem- 
blance to  the  curious  slab-sft'/f^,  recently  found  at  Bologna. 

This  room  and  tlie  next  are  filled  witli  sepulchral  urns,  or  ash- 
chests,  the  greater  part  from  Yolterra,  being  a  selection  made  in 
1770  from  the  fruits  of  the  excavations  then  carrying  forward,  and. 
at  that  time  reputed  the  most  beautiful  relics  of  Etruscan 
antiquity  extant.  A  few  have  been  subsequently  added  from 
the  same  city,  and  from  Chiusi.  They  are  either  of  travertine,, 
alabaster,  or  of  a  yellow  tufaceous  stone.  Out  of  one  hundred, 
very  few  are  of  remarkable  beaut}'  as  works  of  art.  Indeed,  he 
wlio  has  visited  Yolterra,  Perugia,  or  Chiusi,  will  find  little  to 
admire  in  the  urns  of  this  Museum.  The  figures  on  the  lids  are 
of  the  stumpy,  contracted  form  usual  in  the  "  ash-chests  "  of 
Yolterra.  All  are  reclining,  as  at  a  banq;iet,  the  men,  as  usual, 
are  crowned  with  chaplets,  and  hold  a  goblet ;  many  of  them 
retain  traces  of  the  minium  with  whieh  the}'  were  coloured.  The 
women  generally  have  a  fan  or  a  mirror  in  one  hand,  and  a  pome- 
granate in  the  other;  though  several,  of  nu)re  depraved  taste,  hold 

-  See  the  woodcut  at  the  head  of  this  Leyden.      For   further  notices,    see  Lanzi, 

chapter.     The    inscription    "  Tinskvil  "    i.s  Saggio,  11.  p.  236  ;  Micali,  Ant.  Pop.  Ital. 

almost   identical    with   the   "Tinskil"  on  III.  p.  (il,    tav.  12;  Inghir.    Mon.    Etrus. 

the  shoulder  of  a  griffon  in  the  Museum  of  III.  tav.  20 ;  Gori,  Mus.  Etrus,  I.  tab.  155. 


CHAP.  XL.]  FONDNESS  OF  ETEUSa\:N'  WOMEN  FOR  WINE.        91 

a  rhijton,  or  drinking-cup.''  "We  learn  from  them  somewhat  of  the 
habits  of  the  Etruscan  ladies.  Indeed,  if  we  may  believe  all  that 
has  been  said  about  them,  they  were  "terrible  ones  to  drink,"  and 
were  apt  to  be  forward  in  pledging  any  gentleman  to  wIkjui  they 
took  a  fancy,  not  waiting,  as  modest  ladies  ought,  till  they  were 
cliallenged  to  take  wine.^  Very  different  was  the  condition  of 
tlie  Roman  woman  in  early  times.  She  was  not  allowed  to  drink 
wine  at  all,  unless  it  were  simple  raisin-wine.  And,  however  she 
might  relish  strong  drinks,  she  could  not  indulge  even  by  stealth  ; 
first,  because  she  was  never  intrusted  with  tlie  key  of  the  wine- 
cellar  ;  and  secondh-,  because  she  was  obliged  dail}'  to  greet  with 
a  kiss  all  her  own,  as  well  as  her  husband's  male  relatives,  down 
to  second  cousins ;  and  as  she  knew  not  Avhen  or  where  she  might 
meet  them  she  was  forced  to  be  warv,  and  abstain  altogether. 
For  had  she  tasted  but  a  drop,  the  smell  Avould  have  betra^'ed 
lier — "  there  would  have  been  no  need  of  slander."  '  The  pre- 
cautionary means,  it  ma}'  be  thought,  were  worse  than  the  possible 
evil  they  were  intended  to  guard  against.  So  strict,  however, 
were  the  old  Romans  in  this  respect,  that  a  certain  Egnatius 
Mecenius  is  said  to  have  slain  liis  \\ife,  because  he  caught  her  at 
the  wine-cask — a  punishment  which  was  not  deemed  excessive  by 
Piomulus,  who  absolved  the  husband  of  the  crime  of  murder. 
-Vnother  Roman  lady  who,  under  the  pretence  of  taking  a  little 
wine  for  her  stomach's  sake  and  frequent  infirmities,  indulged 
someAvhat  too  freely,  was  mulcted  to  the  full  amomit  of  her 
dowry," 

The  ladies  of  Greece  do  not  appear  to  have  behaved  better  in 
this  respect  than  those  of  Etruria,  if  we  may  believe  theii'  own 
countrymen.  "  The  love  of  wine,"  says  Athenaius,  "  is  common 
to  the  whole  race  of  women,"  and  he  quotes  many  Greek  Avriters 
in  support   of  his   opinion.     Among  them,   Alexis,  who,  in  his 

2  The  r/<y<on  is  a  drinking-cup,  originally,  the  bottom  before  it  could  be  laid  down, 

perhaps,  in  the  form  of  a  cow's  horn,  as  it  It  may  therefore  be  regarded  as  indicative 

is  often  so  represented   in   the   hands  of  of  a  debauch.     Y>y  the  Greeks  it  was  con- 

liacchus   on   the  painted   va.«es   (when   it  sidered  proper  to  heroes  only.     Athen.  XI. 

would  more  correctlybe  called  aA-e?'a«),but  it  c.  4. 

frequently  terminates  in  the  head  of  a  dog,  ■•  Theopompus,  ap.  Athen.  XII.  c.  14. 
fox,  bull,  stag,  boar,  eagle,  cock,  or  griffon.  *  Polybius,  ap.  Athen.  X.  c.  56.  Alcinus 
In  this  ca-se  it  is  in  the  form  of  a  horse's  (ap.  Athen.  loc.  cit. )  confirms  the  state- 
head  and  fore-quarters — a  favourite  shape  ment  of  Polybius,  but  extends  it  to  the 
■with  the  Etruscans.  It  is  sometimes  re-  Italian  women  in  general, 
presented  in  ancient  jjaintings  with  the  *  Plin.  XIV.  14.  On  an  a m^/iora  from 
wine  flowing  in  a  slender  stream  from  the  Volteira,  in  this  same  collection,  two  naked 
extremity.  As  it  could  only  stand  when  females  are  rei>resented  pledging  each  other 
inverted,   it  was  necessary  to  drain  it  to  in  rJii/ta. 


92  FIEENZE.  [chap,  xl, 

Dancing- Girl,  sa3's  "  Women  are  quite  satisfied,  if  they  get 
enough  wine  to  drink," — and  Axionicus,  \vho  utters  the  warning 
— "Don't  trust  a  woman  to  drink  water  alone!"' — and  Xenar- 
chus,  who  says,  "  I  write  a  woman's  oath  in  wine ; "  and  who 
puts  this  pretty  sentiment  into  a  woman's  mouth,  "  May  it  he 
my  lot  to  die  drinking  an  abundance  of  wine  !  "  ^ 

The  reliefs  on  the  urns  are,  with  few  exceptions,  in  a  poor 
style  of  art ;  yet,  as  illustrative  of  the  Etruscan  belief  and 
traditions,  they  are  not  without  interest. 

In  this  room  the  urns  are  numbered  up  to  31  ;  in  the  next 
from  82  to  101.  As  the  numbers,  however,  are  not  attached  to 
the  urns,  but  to  the  places  thej"  occupy,  ni}^  indications  may  be 
rendered  inapplicable  by  an}-  shifting  of  the  monuments. 

The  subjects  are  often  mythological.  Winged  hippocampi,  or 
sea-monsters,  sometimes  with  a  figure  on  their  back,  to  symbolize 
the  passage  of  the  soul  to  another  state  of  existence  (No.  12). 
Seylla,  with  fishes'  tails  instead  of  legs,  amidst  a  shoal  of  merry 
dolphins  (94) ;  or  twining  her  coils  round  the  companions  of 
Ulj'sses  (95).  Griffons,  and  other  chimaeras,  or  winged  demons, 
guarding  the  urn  which  contains  the  ashes  of  the  dead  (98 — 101). 

Here  are  many  scenes  from  the  Heroic  Cycle  of  the  Greeks. 
Not  a  few  illustrations 

"  Of  the  dark  sorrows  of  the  Theban  line." 

Here  Laius  is  dragged  from  his  chariot,  and  slain  b}'  his  son 
(Ediims,  who  strikes  him  down  with  the  broken  wheel  (29). 
There  Qildipus  is  blinded,  not  b}^  his  own  hand,  according  to  the 
Greek  tradition,^  but  b}'  three  Avarriors,  one  of  whom  thrusts  a 
<lagg"er  into  his  eye  (3).  Of  the  following  events  here  are  also 
illustrations.  The  Siege  of  Thebes  (41).  The  mutual  slaughter 
of  Eteocles  and  Polyneices  (Xo.  4,  this  urn  being  remarkable  for 
its  elaborate  sculpture).  The  death  of  (Enomaus,  thrown  from 
his  chariot,  old  Charun,  "  griesly  grim,"  seizing  one  of  the  horses 
by  the  ear,  and  a  Fury  standing  behind  with  sword  upraised 
(39,  10).  Theseus  slaying  the  Minotaur  (35).  The  parting  of 
Admetus  and  Alcestis  {5,  17,  34,  36—38).  The  Rape  of  Helen : 
the  son  of  Priaui  sits  by  his  ship,  waiting  for  the  fatal  gift  of 
Venus,  Avho  escapes  to  him  by  night,  and  unveils  her  charms  as 
she  approaches  ;  a  Fury  waves  a  torch  over  the  guiltj'  pair  (45). 
Pliiloctetes  in  a  cave  in  Lemnos,  with  Ulj'sses  and  other  Greeks 
around  him  (52).     Telephus  visiting  the   Grecian  Camp  before 

'  Atlien,  X.  5G-58.        8  ^Escliyhis,  Sept.  ad  Theb.  783-4  ;  Soph.  G'Alip.  Tyr.  1270. 


cuAP.  XL.]  CINEEAEY   URNS.  93 

Troy,  and  threatening  to  sla}'  the  youthful  Orestes  (4G — 49). 
The  burial  of  Antilochus,  the  beautiful,  the  brave  son  of  Nestor 
(55).  The  death  of  Troilus,  dragged  from  his  horse  b}-  Achilles 
(51).  Paris  taking  refuge  at  an  altar,  to  escape  from  the  fury  of  his 
brothers ;  Aphrodite  steps  in,  and  saves  the  victorious  shepherd 
(42 — 44).  The  taking  of  Troy  :  the  Greeks  descending  from 
the  "wooden  horse,  while  the  Trojans  are  revelling  witliin ;  the 
gate  is  represented  arched,  and  decorated  with  three  heads,  like 
the  Porta  all'  Arco  of  Volterra  (54).  The  death  of  Neoptolemus, 
slain  by  Orestes  at  the  shrine  of  Delphi  (62 — 65).  Ulysses  plying 
the  Cyclops  with  wine  (58,  59) ;  or  in  his  galle}'  struggling  to  free 
himself  from  his  self-imposed  bonds,  that  he  may  yield  to  the 
allurements  of  "  the  Sirens  three,"  who  Avitli  flute,  lyre,  and 
Pandean  pipes,  sit  on  the  cliffs  of  their  fatal  island  (27,  56)  ;  or 
resisting  the  enchantments  of  "  the  fair-haired "  Circe  (57);  or 
combating  the  suitors  (61),  who  are  also  represented  at  their 
revels  before  his  return  (85,  86).  The  boar  of  Calydon  at  bay 
(32,  33). 

Here  "  the  King  of  men  " — lo  grdii  Dura  de'  Greci,  as  Dante 
terms  him — is  about  to  immolate  his  virgin-daughter  (50) : — 

Onde  pianse  Ifigenia  il  suo  bel  volto, 
E  fe  pianger  di  sij  e  i  foUi  e  i  savi, 
Ch'  udir  parlar  di  cosl  fatto  colto. 

And  there  Cl3't£emnestra  is  slain  at  an  altar,  or  on  her  guilt}'  couch 
(6,  9,  60);  the  avengers  of  blood,  in  one  instance,  being  tJnrc. 
On  another  urn  Orestes  and  Pylades  are  sitting  as  victims,  with 
their  hands  bound,  at  tlie  altar  in  Tauris ;  the  libation  is 
l)oured  on  their  heads,  and  the  sacrificial  sword  is  ready  to  be 
drawn  by  the  priestesses  of  Artemis  (83,  90).  On  a  fourtli  urn 
the  drama  is  advanced  another  steji.  Ipliigeneia  discovers  it  is  her 
brother  she  is  about  to  sacrifice,  and  she  stands  leaning  on  his 
head,  with  her  hands  clasped,  in  deep  dejection,  hesitating  between 
love  and  duty.  The  second  priestess  has  her  weapon  still  raised 
to  slay  Pylades ;  and  a  third  brings  in  a  tray  witli  libations  and 
offerings.  The  daughter  of  Agamemnon  is  naked ;  but  her 
fellows  are  attired  in  all  respects  like  the  I^asas  and  I'uries, 
commonly  represented  in  Etruscan  funeral  scenes.  This  monu- 
ment is  in  a  superior  st3'le  to  most  of  its  neighbours  (26). 
Orestes  and  Pylades  assailed  by  the  Furies  (66,  67). 

Many  of  these  urns  bear  more  ai)propriate  subjects  than  scenes 
from  the  mythology  of  the  Greeks.  They  represent  the  final 
parting  of  relatives  and  friends.     The  deceased  is  tiiking  a  last 


94  FIREXZE.  [cuAP.  xl. 

farewell  of  some  relative,  when  the  minister  of  Death,  mallet  in 
hand,  steps  between  them,  and  indicates  a  door  hard  by  as  the 
entrance  to  the  unseen  world  (74,  81) — 

"the  gates  of  gi-islie  Hell, 
And  horrid  house  of  sad  Proserpina." 

In  another  case  a  similar  demon  rushes  between  the  friends, 
seizes  one,  and  thrusts  them  far  apart  (83) ;  or  a  second  demon 
extinguishes  a  torch.  Here  a  husband  is  taking  leave  of  his  wife, 
ere  he  mounts  the  steed  Avhicli  is  to  convey  him  to  the  land  whence 
no  traveller  returns  (82) —  or  a  like  fond  pair  are  pressing  hands 
for  the  last  time  at  a  column,  the  funeral  pine-cone  on  which 
nuirks  the  nature  of  their  farewell  (80).  There,  the  winged 
messenger  of  Hades  enters  the  chamber,  and  waves  her  torch 
over  the  head  of  the  dying  one — or  two  sons  are  performing  the 
last  sad  rites  to  their  fother ;  one  is  piously  closing  his  eyes,  and 
the  other  stands  by  comforted  by  a  good  spirit,  while  the  Genius 
of  Death  is  also  present,  sword  in  hand,  to  indicate  the  triumph 
lie  has  achieved  (73).'^ 

The  subjects  on  some  of  these  urns  are  not  easy  of  explanation, 
illustrating,  it  may  be,  some  Etruscan  myth,  of  which  no  record 
has  reached  us.  One  in  particular,  here  numbered  20,  has  defied 
all  scholarship  to  unriddle  it.  A  bear  climbing  out  of  a  well, 
though  held  by  a  wtnuan  by  collar  and  chain,  is  contending  with 
some  armed  men,  and  a  winged  Lasa  stands  by  holding  a  torch. ^ 
One  of  the  cinerary  urns  formerly  in  this  collection,  but 
whether  still  gracing  it  or  not  I  cannot  sa}',  bears  the  figure 
of  a  panther — an  unconnnon  device  on  urns.  On  the  lid  reclines 
a  male  figure,  with  a  most  expressive  head ;  he  is  designated 
"  Arxth  Caule  Vipixa,"  an  inscription  in  which  you  may  recog- 
nise the  name  of  Cables,  or  Coelius,  Yibenna,  the  Etruscan  chief- 
tain who,  as  some  Roman  traditions  assert,  assisted  llomulus 
against  the  Sabines,  and  gave  his  name  to  the  Cffilian  Hill,  on 
which  he  made  a  settlement."  The  bronze  tablet,  however, 
found  at  Lyons,  on  which  is  preserved  a  fragment  of  an  oration 
bv    the    Emperor    Claudius,    represents   him,    according   to    the ' 

°  There  are  many  other  urns  witli  parting  liliution  poiircil  iqion  liini  as  a  victim.      In 

subjects,  besiiles  those  siieciticd  above.    15ut  all  he  is  issuing  from  a  well,  and  is  chained, 

thej-  speak  for  themselves.  See  Concstabile,   Monumenti    di    rerugia, 

^  There  are  sundry  versions  of  this  niytli ;  tav.  48,  49.      Other  urns  with  unintelligible 

in   some  the  monster  has  a  human  liody  subjects  are  numbered  13,  10,  23,  24. 

with  a  bear's  head  ;  in  others  he  is  a  man  "  Dion.   Hal.   II.    36  ;  Fostus  v.   Ca'Hus 

with  a  bear's  skin  over  bis  head  ;  in  some  Mens, 
he  seizes  a  l>ystaiider,   in  others  he  h;i.s  a 


CHAP.  XL.]  STATUE    OF    THE    ORATOR.  93 

Etruscan  annals,  to  liave  been  the  chieftain  and  IViciHl  of  ^las- 
tarna,  who  having  shared  the  varied  fortunes  of  ]iis  lord,  In-ouglit 
tlie  remnants  of  his  army  from  Etruria  to  Home,  where  he 
settled  on  tlie  Cielian  jMount,  to  which  he  gave  the  name  of 
his  chief,  ami  eventuaUy  became  king  under  the  name  of  Servius 
Tullius.'"  This  relation  between  these  two  noble  Etruscans  is 
confirmed  by  the  paintings  in  the  Francois  tomb  at  "Wdci, 
where  Mastarna  is  represented  liberating  Cfcles  A'ibenna  from 
captivity.  From  what  city  of  Etruria  the  latter  illustrious 
warrior  came  to  Home,  we  know  not,  though  it  is  probable  that 
he  was  from  the  northern  district  of  Etruria.*  The  individual 
whose  ashes  are  inclosed  in  this  urn  may  be  in-esumcd  to  have 
been  of  the  same  illustrious  stock. 

Eighth  Room. — In  the  centre  of  this  room  stands  the 
Aeringatoue,  or  Orator,  a  fine  semi-colossal  statue  in  l)ronze, 
of  a  senator  or  Lucumo,  clad  in  tunic  and  ixiUhoit,  and  high- 
laced  buskins,  and  with  one  arm  raised  in  the  attitude  of 
haranguing.  On  the  border  of  the  pall'uuii  is  an  Etruscan 
inscrii)tion,  which  in  Itoman  letters  would  run  thus  :— 

"  AuLESi.  ]Metelis.  Ye.  A^esial.  Klexsi. 
KEN.  Phleres.  Teke.  Sansl.  Texixe. 

TUTHINES.    CiTISVLIKS  " 

showing  this  to  be  the  statue  of  Aulus  Metellus,  son  of  A'^elius,  by 
a  lady  of  the  fiimily  of  Yesius.  Notwithstanding  this  proof  of  its 
origin,  the  monument  is  of  no  early  date,  it  has  none  of  the 
rigidit}'  of  archaic  art,  and  is  probably  of  the  period  of  lloman 
domination,  before  the  native  language  had  fallen  into  disuse. '' 

''  (iruter,  p.  502.  '  "  Vetiiloiiium ''   as  Cluver    (II.    jip.    4.")1, 

■•  Festiis  («.  V.  Tuscum  Vicum)  who  chops  473)  imagines,   or  ''  Volsiiiiuiu,"  as  JUiller 

the  name  of  Cseles  Yihenna  in  half,   and  opines,    or    "  Populonium,"    as    Casaubon 

makes  two  brothers  out  of  it,   mentioned  and  othei-s  would  have  it,  is  not  easj-  to 

the  city  whence  they  came,  but  the  word  determine.     The  name  of  Yibenna — Yipi, 

is  imperfect — its  termination  in  '^  entes"  Vipina,    Yipinanas — has    been    found    on 

alone  remaining.      Miiller  (Etrusk.  einl.  2,  sepulchi-al  inscriptions  also  at  Toscanella, 

1 ."))  would  read  this  "Yolcientes,"  because  Yolsinii,     and     Perugia,    and    the    word 

Yidci  was  near  Yolsinii,  to  which  city,  from  "Vipinal"  is  found  painted   on  a  small 

a  comiiarison  of  Propert.  lY.  ,2,  4,  lie  would  cinerary  pot  in  this  iluseum  of  Florence, 
refer  the  hero.  The  Lucumo,  whom  Dionysius  ^  Lanzi  (Sagg.   II.   p.   547)  regards  this 

(II.,  37)  represents  as  coming  to  the  assist-  statue  as  votive,  and  gives  the  inscription 

ance  of  Romulus  "from  Solonium,  a  city  in  Etruscan  characters  (tav.  III.  7).     It  is 

of  the  Etru.scans,"  both  Midler  and  Niebuhr  also  given  by  Micali  (Ant.  Pop.  Ital.  p.  64, 

(I.   p.  297)  identify  with  Ciules  Yilienna ;  tav.    44,    2),    and    by   Conestabile,    Mon. 

but  as  no  such  city  is  mentioned  by  any  Perug.  tav.  99,  2.     The  la-st-named  writer 

other  writer,  it  is  probable  that  the  text  considers   this   statue  as  one  of   the    best 

is  corrupt;  though  whether  we  should  read  jiroductions  of  Etruscan  torentic  art  of  the 


96  FIEEXZE.  [chap.  xl. 

There  is  an  ungainly  and  aAvkward  air  about  the  figure,  which 
marks  it  as  decidedly  non-Hellenic.  It  was  found  in  1560,  at  a 
spot  called  Pila,  near  the  shores  of  the  Thrasymene.  A  back 
view  of  it  is  shown  in  the  woodcut  opposite,  taken  from  a 
photograph. 

The  Amazon  SARCorHAGus. 

But  the  glory  of  this  room  and  of  the  Museum  is  a  large  sarco- 
phagus of  marble,  covered  with  exquisite  paintings — one  of  the 
most  wonderful  as  well  as  beautiful  monuments  of  ancient  art  ever 
rescued  from  the  sepulchres  of  Etruria.  It  was  found  in  1869  by 
the  advocate  Giuseppe  Bruschi,  on  the  Montarozzi,  about  a  mile 
from  Corneto.  The  tomb  had  been  opened  before,  and  rifled  of 
all  its  portable  furniture,  but  the  spoilers  had  left  untouched  the  two 
sarcophagi  it  contained,  of  which  this  is  by  far  the  more  beautiful. 
It  is  shown  in  the  woodcut  opposite,  in  front  of  the  Arringatore. 

This  monument  is  about  6i  feet  long,  and  rather  more  than  2 
wide.  The  paintings,  which  are  on  all  four  sides,  represent 
combats  of  Greeks  with  Amazons.  In  one  of  the  princii)al  scenes 
the  Amazons  are  fighting  in  chariots,  in  the  other  on  horseback, 
and  in  both  the  end-scenes  on  foot.  We  will  first  describe  the 
chariot-scene. 

From  each  end  of  this  scene  a  qnadruja  rushes  in,  drawn  by 
magnificent  white  horses, 

"  Four  fiery  steeds,  impatient  of  the  rein," 

a  pail*  of  Amazons  in  each  car,  contending  with  an  equal  number 
of  warriors  on  foot.  In  the  quadrif/a  which  is  charging  from 
the  left,  the  auriga,  or  driver,  is  in  front,  in  yellow  tunic,  red 
Phiygian  cap,  and  long  hair  streaming  in  the  wind  as  she  holds 
the  reins  in  her  right  hand,  and  a  blue  shield  on  her  left  arm 
to  protect  her  comrade  ;  who,  bareheaded,  in  a  Avhite  chiton, 
grasps  the  antyx,  cr  front  bar  of  the  chariot,  to  steady  herself  as 
she  hurls  her  lance  at  one  of  her  foes,  and  brings  him  to  the 
ground  beneath  her  horses'  feet.  Both  his  thighs  are  pierced  by 
her  spear ;  he  drops  on  one  knee,  j'et  gallantly  cuts  at  the  horses 
with  his  short  sword.  His  comrade,  a  youthful  Greek,  rushes  to 
the  rescue,  and  endeavours  to  protect  his  fallen  friend  with  his 
larire  round  shield.  Both  these  warriors  Avear  white  cuirasses, 
j-elloAV  Corinthian  helmets    with  lofty  Avhite  crests,  greaves  also 

thinl    jteriod,    or  that   in   -wliicli    this   art       iith   ceiitury  of  Rome,  or  about   300   B.C., 
reached  its  highest  development  ;  and  he       op.  cit.  Y,  pp.  44i. 
confidently  ascribes  it  to  the  middle  of  the 


CHAP.  XL.]  THE    A:^IAZ0N    SAECOPHAGUS.  99 

yellow,  to  represent  brass ;  and  their  tiesli  is  })ainte(l  red  to 
distinguish  them  from  their  foes  of  the  fair  sex.  l^otli  these 
Amazons,  as  well  as  the  rest  on  this  sarcophagus,  wear  earrings, 
necklaces,  and  bracelets — a  tacit  mode  of  expressing  the  fact  that 
in  no  woman,  whatever  pretence  of  misanthropy  she  may  make, 
is  vanity  completely  extinct.  The  qiKidru/d  whidi  comes  in  from 
the  right  is  in  every  resjject  equal  to  its  fellow.  The  horses 
charge  in  magnificent  style.  The  fighting  Amazon  here  is  in 
front;  her  head  bare,  her  hair  dishevelled,  eagerness  in  her  eye, 
-decision  in  her  mouth,  she  leans  forward  to  pull  her  bow,  and  with 
equal  success,  for  she  has  brought  one  of  her  adversaries  to  the 
ground.  Her  (inn<ia,  dressed  precisely  like  her  fellow  in  the 
opposite  chariot,  stands  behind,  holding  the  pdtn,  or  yellow 
Amazonian  shield,  on  her  left  arm,  her  vo([  or  whip  and  the  reins 
in  her  right.  The  prostrate  (Ireek  in  vain  endeavours  with  the 
eiid  of  his  broken  s})ear  and  uplifted  sliield  to  protect  himself 
from  the  horses'  hoofs;  but  his  com})ani()n,  a  bearded  warrior, 
stands  over  him  in  a  spirited  attitude,  and  thrusts  his  lance  into 
the  neck  of  the  nearest  horse,  which  rears  as  the  blood  gushes 
from  the  wound. 

On  the  other  side  of  the  sarcophagus  the  contest  is  continued, 
the  Ama/ons  being  on  horseback.  Here  the  combat  is  divided 
into  five  g"roui)s  ;  the  most  striking  of  which  is  in  the  centre.  An 
Amazon,  mounted  on  a  magnificent  white  horse,  the  beau-ideal  of 
n  wild  horsewoman,  with  bare  head  and  long  hair  streaming  in  the 
wind,  is  defending  herself  against  two  (rreeks  on  foot.  She  wears 
a  white  chiton,  or  chemise,  red  drawers,  and  yellow  shoes.  Her 
right  arm  is  raised  over  her  head  as  she  cuts  furiously  at  one  of 
her  adversaries  with  her  sw(jrd.  Pie  is  a  bearded  man,  with  a 
majestic  countenance,  calm,  and  dignified,  and  he  parries  her 
l)lows  with  his  shield,  while  he  aims  at  her  horse  with  his  lance. 
The  heroine  is  assailed  from  the  other  side  l)y  a  beardless 
warrior,  avIio  attacks  her  with  his  sword.  The  veteran  Greek 
wears  a  highly  ornamented  cuirass  over  a  red  tunic;  the  younger 
a  blue  cldavij/s,  but  no  breastplate. 

On  each  side  of  this  group  is  a  combat  between  a  Oreek 
and  an  Amazon  on  foot,  in  both  of  which  the  (rreek  triumphs, 
striking  his  fair  foe  to  the  gi'ound.  In  one  of  these  groups 
her  figm'e  is  almost  obliterated ;  in  the  other  the  Avounded 
Amazon  rests  on  her  hams,  with  her  legs  stretched  out  in 
front,  yet  still  defends  herself  with  her  shield  and  broken 
spear.     In  vain  ;  for  her  adversary  seizes    her  by  the  hair,  and 


100  FIEEXZE.  [chap,  xl. 

after  wouuding  lier  in  the  bosom,  gives  her  the  coup  iJi'  (jrace 
with  his  sword. 

In  both  corners  of  this  scene  an  Amazon  on  horseback  contends 
with  a  Greek  on  foot.  To  the  right  the  fair  warrior,  in  red  tunic, 
white  drawers,  yeHow  Phrygian  cap,  and  red  shoes,  with  a  lion's 
skin  over  her  shouhlers,  gallops  up  gallantly  to  attack  the  Greeks. 
Her  horse  is  a  superb  white  charger,  carrying  his  head  and  tail 
in  pure  blood  style,  and  is  adorned  with  a  necklace  of  gold,  and 
phaleiue,  or  bosses  of  the  same  metal,  attached  to  the  bridle  ;  and 
she  sits  him  with  all  imaginable  ease  and  grace,  though  with- 
out a  saddle,  and  guides  him,  not  with  the  reins  which  hang 
on  his  neck,  but  by  her  heel,  thrown  back  to  his  flank.  She 
carries  a  spear  in  each  hand,  and  with  one  she  is  taking  aim 
at  her  opi)onent,  who,  with  lance  poised,  and  shield  upraised, 
stands  awaiting  her  attack.  He  is  accoutred  m  the  same  way 
as  the  Greeks  already  described,  but  has  also  a  sword  slung  at 
his  side. 

The  group  in  the  left  corner  is  very  similar,  varying  only  in 
the  details. 

The  ground  of  these  two  scenes  is  coloured  a  pale  puq)le  or 
violet,  and  the  surface  of  the  stone  seems  to  have  been  left  pur- 
posely rather  rough,  the  better  to  hold  the  colour. 

At  each  end  of  the  sarcophagus  a  Greek  is  engaged  with  two 
Amazons  on  foot.  In  one  case  he  has  overthrown  one  of  his  foes, 
who  lies  at  his  feet  naked,  save  her  Phrygian  cap  and  red  shoes. 
She  has  still  a  blue  pelta  on  her  left  arm,  and  raises  her  right, 
though  without  a  weapon,  to  deprecate  the  imminent  thrust  of 
liis  speai'.  A  second  Amazon  in  a  white  chiton,  with  yellow 
cap  and  dishevelled  hair,  rushes  forward,  with  j^ink  pclta  and 
brandished  spear,  to  protect  her  fallen  comrade.  This  group  is 
much  injured,  and  in  parts  obliterated. 

At  the  other  end  of  the  sarcophagus,  a  pair  of  Amazons  are 
getting  the  better  of  their  foe.  He  is  a  veteran  warrior  with  a 
grand  head  in  helmet  and  crest,  but  being  wounded  in  the  thigh, 
he  drops  on  one  knee,  and  defends  himself  vigorously  with  sword 
and  shield.  One  of  his  fair  opponents,  holding  a  bow  in  her  left 
hand,  strikes  at  him  with  a  battle-axe.  The  other  attacks  him 
from  behind  with  a  spenr.  Botli  wear  Phrygian  caps,  red  or 
yellow  shoes,  and  long  cliitoncs,  one  white,  the  other  red,  reaching 
to  the  middle  of  the  leg  and  girt  about  the  waist.  The  red  chiton 
is  of  the  Doric  form,  ojien  at  the  side,  and  its  "wings"  flying 
apart  with  her  violent  action,  disclose  the  thigh  of  the  wearer. 


CHAP.  XI..]  THE    AMAZON    SARCOPHAGUS.  101 

The  ground  of  those  two  end-scenes  is  not  purple,  hut  a  dark 
grey  approaching  to  hhick." 

Tlie  lid  of  the  sarc(4)hagus  is  simply  gahled,  -with  a  woman's 
head  at  each  angle  in  relief,  and  a,  naked  hoy  attacked  h}'  dogs  in 
the  small  i^ediment  at  each  end.  ( )n  the  lid  is  an  Etruscan  inscrip- 
tion of  two  lines,  rudel}'  marked  in  hlack  paint.  Another  inscrip- 
tion, nearly  similar,  has  heen  scratched  on  the  painted  scene  helow, 
defacing  the  heads  and  weapons  of  the  combatants^  It  will  be 
remarked  that  the  lid  is  of  a  different  and  coarser  material  than 
the  sarcophagus,  which  is  of  marble  resembling  alabaster,  and 
probably  from  the  Circseau  promontory,^  and  especially  that  the 
art  displaj'ed  on  the  lid  is  much  ruder  and  less  advanced  than 
that  of  the  paintings.  There  can  be  little  doubt  that  the  sarco- 
phagus is  a  work  of  Greek  art ;  that  the  lid  was  fitted  to  it  subse- 
quently, and  decorated  and  inscribed  by,  an  Etruscan  hand  ;  and 
that,  later  still,  some  other  Etruscan,  dead  to  all  feeling  for  the 
beautiful,  passed  his  ruthless  hand  over  the  exquisite  paintings 
on  the  sarcophagus,  leaving  the  second  inscription  to  attest  his 
barbarism.  In  short,  this  sarcophagus  appears  to  bear  the  same 
relation  to  its  lid  that  man}'  of  the  beautiful  bronze  ciste  bear  to 
their  figured  handles — the  latter  betraying  the  coarseness,  in- 
•elegance,  and  realism  of  ordinary  Etruscan  work;  the  former 
Ijreathing  the  refinement  and  ideality  of  Hellenic  art. 

"  The  outlines  of  these  paintings,"  says  a  competent  critic, 
"  are  drawn  with  great  energ}'  and  by  a  decided  hand.  The 
scale  of  colours  is  simple  but  harmonious.  The  darker  shadows 
are  scratched  in.  The  half  tints  are  suggested  by  means  of  yery 
delicate  simple  tints  rather  than  clearly  expressed.  Ever}' 
movement  reveals  a  perfect  knowledge  of  the  human  body.  This 
is  particularly  manifest  in  the  extremities,  which,  in  spite  of  their 
small  size,  are  rendered  with  wonderful  fidehty.  The  details  are 
accurately  expressed,  yet  not  so  as  to  predominate  over  the 
essential  elements  of  the  composition.  The  drawing  of  the 
Iiorses  is  above  all  praise,  and  may  even  be  pronounced  superior 

*■'  The  (inly  illustnitioiis  of  tlie.se  iiaiiitiii;,'s  Naithuiati.    Nac.wa.    Lauthial    Ai'AIA- 

I    have   seen  are  tlin.se  imlili.slied   by  the  thus  Vilktkraias."     That  on  the  .sarco- 

Archa'ological    Institute    of     Home,    Men.  pliagiis  api)eais  to  be  intended  for  a  cor- 

Inst.  IX.  tav.  LX.  ;  but  they  give  a  very  rection  —  "Kamtha.  Huvknai.  Thui.  Kesc. 

inadequate    idea   of    the   beauty    of    the  Ati.  Nacna.    Lakthial.   Aimatkus  Vile- 

originals.     They  fail  even  to  impart  the  tkrais.  " 

impression  of  the  jiure  Greek  art,  which  ^  AVhcther   it  be  of  marble  resembling 

strikes  the  beholder  at  first  sight.  alabaster,  or  of  alaba.ster  resembling  marble, 

''  The  inscription  on  the  lid  would  run  is  di.sputed.     Otto  Donner  pronounces  it  to 

thus  in  Koinan  letters — "  Ka.mtiia.  IIuvk.  be  of  alabaster.     Bull.  Inst.  186S>,  p.  257. 


102  FIRENZE.  [CHAP.  XL. 

ti»  that  of  tlie  liuiiiiin  tigiires.  In  slmrt,  these  paiiitiii^^s  bek)ng 
to  ii  perfect  devt'lopment  of  the  ait,  aiul  show  tlie  artist  to  have 
been  capable  of  expressing  the  most  ditficult  conceptions."  ' 

The  subjects  are  Greek;  the  composition,  the  treatment,  the 
design,  the  type  of  countenances,  the  costumes,  tlie  weapons, 
the  general  as  well  as  the  individual  characteristics,  all  breathe 
the  spirit  of  Greek  art.  V\'hy  then  should  we  hesitate  to  ])ro- 
nounce  these  paintings  the  Avork  of  Greek  hands?  Certainly  not 
because  this  cliff  (Vojurre  was  found  in  Etruria,  where  so  many 
thousands  of  monuments  of  unquestionably  Hellenic  art  have 
been,  and  are  yearly  being  rescued  from  oblivion.^ 

The  paintings  on  this  sarcophagus  are  not  in  fresco  or  encaustic, 
but  in  distemper,  the  colours  being  laid  on  the  marble  itself, 
without  any  intermediate  stratum.  The  glutinous  vehicle,  how- 
ever, whatever  it  may  have  been,  has  lost  its  adhesive  properties, 
so  that  the  colour  now  comes  off  at  the  slightest  touch. - 

Broxzes. 

Ninth  Iioom. — A  small  chamber  opening  from  lioom  YII. 
contains  a  further  collection  of  bronzes. 

In  a  central  glass  case  is  a  sjilendid  suit  of  Ktruscau  armour, 
found  by  Signor  Golini  in  a  tomb  opened  bv  him  near  Onueto  in 

'  Dr.  Helliig,  IJull.   Inst.  1869,  p.  198  :  deelare  it  a  work  of  Ureek  art  \op.  cit.  p. 

see  the  article,  pp.  193-201.     I  could  not  199).     Doctors  ditfer,  however,  in  matters 

l>erceive  that  the  shadows  were  scratched  of  art,  as  well  as  of  science,  for  Dr.  Klueg- 

in.    Helbig  truly  observes  that  the  impres-  luann    (Ann.    Inst.    1873,     pp.    239-251  > 

siou  produced  liy  these  paintings  is  very  confidently  pronounces  these  jjaintings  not 

like  that  made  ijy  the  Attic  lekijthi,  with  to  he  by  a  Greek  hand,  but  by  an  Etruscan 

figures  painted  with  various  colours  on  a  artist    following   the    rules    of   Greek    art 

white  ground.  merely  as  a  basis  for  his  own  .style  ;  and, 

'  Dr.  Helbig  points  out  the  ideality  that  in  support  of   his  view,  he  points  out  the 

pervades   the    entire    composition,    in   the  unwarlike    dresses    of    the    Amazons,    the 

general    characteristics  of   the    individual  strange  nakedness  of  two  of  them  who  are 

figures  as  well  as  in  their  physiognomy,  an  vanquished,  and   the  absence  in  the  male 

ideality  which  is  ileparted   from   here  and  warriors    of    that    ideality    which    always 

there  a  little  in  tlic  heads  of  the  warriors,  reigns  in  monuments  of  the  full  and   free 

showing  that  the  artist  had  wished  to  in-  development  of  Greek  art,   and  the  want 

dividualise  them,  but   that  only  the  head  of  whicli  reduces  these  warriors  from  heroes 

of    the    young    warrior    who    has    fallen  to  simple  hoplito:,  such  as  are  frequently 

wounded  beneath  the  horses  of  the  (^(W(6-/'/rt  I'epresented  on  Etruscan  monuments.     He 

to  the  i-ight  betrays,  and  in  a  small  degree,  points  out  the  affinity  between  these  paint- 

the  influence  of  Italic   realism.      He  gives  ings,   and  those  representing  the  Rape  of 

his  opinion  that  no   monument  yet  disco-  the  Leucippides,  on  a  wooden  sarcophagus 

vered  in  Etruria  reveals  the  character  of  found  at  Kertch. 

pure  Greek  art  so  clearly  as  this,  and  that  -  Otto  Donner,  who  has  ciirefuUy  ex- 
it it  had  not  been  found  on  Etruscan  soil,  amineil  this  monument,  takes  the  vehicle  to 
and  had  not  been  of  a  material  un-  have  been  white  of  egg,  with  or  without  the 
doulitedly  Italic,   no  one  would  hesitate  to  milky  juice  of  figs.    Bull.  lust.  1869,  p.  203. 


CHAP.  XL.]      BEAUTIFUL    ETEUSCAN    SUIT    OF    ARMOUR. 


103 


1863.     It  consists  of  an  I'ltruscnn  aissis  or  casciue  (represented 

in  the  annexed  Avoodcut)  witli  a  button   on  tlie  crown,  and  with 

broad     cheek-pieces     (j>ani(iii(i- 

tJiides)  adorned  with  three  large 

bosses  in  relief,  tlu;  whole  of  tine 

workmanship,  and  witli  a  perfect 

jHd'ntK  ;    a   cuirass  in  two  parts, 

front  and  back-piece,   hinged  at 

the     shoulder,     and     beautifully 

modelled^  reproducing  in  bron/.e 

the  jiarts  of  the  body  it  was  (h- 

signed  to  protect ;   with  a  pair  ot 

greaves    modelled    in    the    same 

manner  to  the  leg,  to  which  they 

seem  to  have  chmg  with  a  spring; 

a  large  a.s^y'ts,  or  circular  shield. 

Avitliout    boss,  but  with    its   I'ini 

decorated  with  a  double  [/iiiUorhc 

pattern,  and  retaining,  when  tirst 

discovered,    its   lininf;;    of  wood. 


SITL'LA    uf    Juii).\/,K. 


(KXoCIUiK    (iK    liltuN/.K. 


Both  greaves  and  cuirass  show  manifest  traces  of  gilding.  In  the 
same  case  are  two  situLc,  and  an  auochor  of  bron/.o  from  the 
same  site,  represented  in  the  woodcuts. 


104  FIRENZE.  [chap.  xl. 

In  another  case  by  the  window  is  a  bron/e  sitiila,  t)nly  six 
inches  high,  but  decorated  with  reliefs  representing  Hephaistos 
brought  back  to  OImmimis  liy  Dionysos  and  Ariadne,  attended  by 
Satyrs  and  Mienads.  The  art  is  Etruscan,  modified  b}'  Hellenic 
influence.  The  word  "  Suthina,"  in  Etruscan  letters,  inscribed 
on  the  body  of  the  donkey  on  which  Ariadne  is  reclining,  seems 
to  mai-k  this  i)ot  as  a  votive  offering.'^  It  retains  traces  of  gild- 
inj;.  It  Avas  discovered  in  a  tomb  near  Bolsena  in  1871. 
Another  bronze  pot  shaped  like  a  tankard,  also  bears  the  in- 
scription   "  SUTHIXA." 

In  the  case  by  the  window,  is  a  sltahi  of  silver,  and  of  nuich 
earlier  date,  with  very  archaic  figures  scratched  on  it  in  a  band. 
The  Avomen  bearing  boxes  are  purely  Egyptian  in  character. 
Among  the  military  bronzes  you  may  notice  a  Greek  helmet  with 
nose  and  cheek  pieces,  the  latter  hinged,  verj'  mdike  the  Etruscan 
casque  described  above ;  spear-heads,  battle-axes,  bits,  spurs,  the 
boss  of  a  chariot  wheel,  and  little  instruments  for  laming  cavalry 
— small  balls  with  four  legs  or  points,  three  of  which  always  rest 
on  the  ground,  while  the  fourth  points  upwards. 

Of  bronzes  for  civil  or  religious  purposes,  there  are  flesh-hooks, 
surgical  instruments,  knives,  some  sacrificial,  others  of  a  crescent 
shape  supposed  to  be  razors,  Jihuhe,  strigils,  buckles,  buttons, 
keys,  hinges,  springs,  mirror-cases  with  beautiful  reliefs  on  their 
lids,  and  the  thousand  and  one  articles  of  domestic  use  which 
composed  the  furniture  of  Etruscan  tombs. 

In  one  case  b}'  the  window  are  some  elegant  bronze  handles  to 
vases  which  have  perished  ;  one  bearing  an  Etruscan  inscription — 
"  Thaxias  .  Ceineal  .  SuTiiixA," — another,  formed  of  the  body 
of  a  youth,  bending  back,  and  grasi)ing  the  long  curls  which 
depend  from  his  head ;  a  third,  of  the  body  of  a  bearded  man  in 
a  similar  position,  but  with  one  hand  over  his  head,  as  if  asleep, 
the  other  holding  a  vase.  There  are  also  some  lions'  feet  to 
bronze  couches,  adorned  with  groups  of  archaic  figures.  Of  iron 
there  are  sundry  weapons  and  implements,  domestic  and  agricul- 
tural. But  it  is  in  ivor}'  that  this  museum  is  particularh-  rich. 
There  are  some  interesting  plaques  Avith  figures  in  relief ;  among 
them  a  pretty  fragment  of  Europa  on  the  bull,  and  another  with 
a  group  of  two  sleeping  children,  perhaps  the  royal  twins  of 
Jiome,  a})2)roached  by  a  she-wolf  and  her  cubs — from  a  tomb  at 

•*  This  woril  is  often  inscrilied  on  lironzcs  "  sciniUliral,"  and  therefore  sacred  and 
found  at  Volsinii,  see  Chap.  XXXV.  p.  not  for  cdiunion  use.  Jiull.  Inst.  1875, 
529.     Gamurrini  thinks   it   must  signify       p.  87. 


CHAP.  XL.]     THE    BEONZES— AX    ETRUSCAX    COATPASS 1  105 

Cliiusi.  Here  are  also  some  beautiful  liaiidlcs  of  ivorv,  beariupj 
reliefs,  probably  tbe  haudles  to  bronze  mirrors  ;  on  one  is  carved 
a  warrior,  carrying  his  helmet  by  a  ring  at  the  crown  ;  on  another, 
an  Etruscan  marine  deity,  with  wings  and  iish-tails. 

In  this  same  room  is  an  article  in  bronze,  which  years  ago  used 
to  be  inquired  after  by  English  travellers,  as  the  "compass," 
by  which  the  Etruscans  steered  to  Carnsore  Point,  in  the  county 
of  Wexford.  The  first  party  who  asked  for  this  instrument  met 
with  a  pn)mpt  reply  from  I'rofessor  Migliarini,  then  Director  of 
Antiquities  in  Tuscany.  He  ordered  one  of  his  ofhcers  to  take 
the  sifiiiori  to  the  Koom  of  the  Bronzes,  and  to  point  out  the 
Etruscan  compass.  *'  Compass  !  "  the  man  stared  and  hesitated, 
but  on  the  repetition  of  the  command  led  the  way,  persuaded  of 
his  own  ignorance,  and  anxious  to  discover  the  article  with  which 
he  was  not  acquainted.  The  search  was  fruitless — no  compass 
could  be  discerned,  and  the  English  returned  to  the  Professor, 
complaining  of  the  man's  stupidity.  The  learned  Director,  in- 
dicating the  case  and  shelf  Avhere  it  was  to  be  found,  ordered  him 
to  return  with  the  party.  A  second  search  proved  no  more  suc- 
cessful; and  the  officer  was  obliged  to  confess  his  ignorance. 
Whereon  the  Professor  went  with  the  part}'  to  the  room,  and 
taking  down  a  certain  article,  exhibited  it  as  tlie  compass. 
"Diamine'  "  cried  the  man,  "  I  always  took  that  for  a  lamp,  an 
eight-branched  lamp."  "Know  then  in  future,"  said  Migiiarini 
with  great  gravity,  "  that  this  has  been  discovered  by  a  learned 
Irishman  to  be  an  '  Etrusco-Phoenician  nautical  compass,'  used 
by  the  Etruscans  to  steer  by  on  their  voyages  to  Ireland,  which 
was  a  colony  of  theirs,  and  this  inscription,  written  in  pure 
Etruscan  or  Irish,  which  is  the  same  thing,  certifies  the  fact — 
'  In  the  night  on  a  voyage  out  or  home  in  sailing  happily  always 
in  clear  weather  is  known  the  course  of  going.'  "  ^ 

Ti:ilRACOTT.A.S. 

Tenth  Poom. — In  this  passage,  ranged  along  the  walls,  are 

*  Sir  'William  lietliain,  when  he  found  Yelthuri.  Thura.  Tcrke.  Au.  Yelthuri. 

this  mare's  nest  (EtruriaCeltica,  IT.  p.  268),  Phsisual.      In  the  centre   is  a  Medusa's 

had  evidently  made  acquaintance  with  the  head,  with  wings  on  the  temples,  as  on  the 

relic  only  througli  illustrations,  which  all  lamps   in    the    Tomb  of   the    Yolunini   at 

present  but  one  view  of  it.      Had  he  i)er-  Perugia.     This  monument  has  been  illus- 

sonally  inspected  it,  he  mu.st  have  confessed  trateii  by  several  of  the  early  writers  on 

it  a  lamp,   with   the  holes  for  the  wicks,  Etrusc;in  antiquities.    Demjister,  de  EtruriA 

and  reservoir  for  the  oil.     The  inscription  liegali,  I.  tab.  S  ;  Uori,  ^luseum  Etruscum, 

runs  in  a  circle  round  the  bottom,  and  in  I.  p.  xxx.  ;  Lanzi,  Saggio,  II.  tav.  14,  3. 
Roman  letters   would   Ijc  —  Mi.    Sctiiil. 


106  FIREXZE.  [cuAP.  xi.. 

little  ash-cliests  of  baked  day — miniatures  of  those  in  stone, 
bearing  pretty  figures  reclining  on  their  lids,  not  often  as  at  a 
banquet,  but  generally  sketched  in  slumber,  nuittied  in  togas. 
The  toga,  be  it  remembered,  was  originally  an  Etruscan  robe, 
borrowed  by  the  liomans,  and  was  used  in  JuvenaTs  time  as  ft* 
shroud  alone  throughout  a  great  part  of  Italy — 

Pars  magna  Italifc  est,  si  verum  admittiinus,  in  qua 
Xemo  togam  sumit.  nisi  mortuns.* 

Its  sepulchral  use  is  exemplified  in  these  recumbent  figures. 
There  is  little  variety  in  the  reliefs  on  these  urns,  which  seem  to 
have  been  multiplied  abundantly  from  the  same  moulds.  T]ie 
subjects  are  generally  marine  monsters,  the  mutual  slaughter  of 
the  Theban  brothers,  or  Cadmus  striking  down  with  his  plough 
the  warriors  sj^rung  from  the  dragon's  teeth  he  had  sown  at 
Thebes.  These  little  urns  were  all  painted,  both  the  figure  on  the 
lid,  and  the  relief  below,  and  some  retain  traces,  more  or  less  vivid, 
of  this  colouring.  In  this  passage  are  two  of  the  tall  red  sepulchral 
vases  of  Ca^re  or  Veii,  with  archaic  reliefs,  and  some  cinerary 
uiiis  of  stone  in  the  form  of  houses  or  temples,  Avith  the  tile-work 
of  the  roof,  carved  in  detail.  Here  is  also  a  fragment  of  an 
archaic  relief  from  Chiusi,  representing  a  race  of  trhjce,  or  three- 
horse  chariots. 


In  the  Palazzo  Buonarroti  at  Florence,  is  a  slab  of  sandstone- 
with  the  figure  of  an  Etruscan  warrior  in  relief.  He  is  almost 
naked,  ha%'ing  a  cloth  only  about  his  loins  ;  his  hair  hangs  loosely 
down  his  back ;  he  holds  a  spear  in  one  hand  and  a  lotus-fiower, 
with  a  little  bird  on  the  stalk,  in  the  other.  The  clumsiness,  the 
Egyptian  rigidity-  of  this  figure,  mark  it  as  of  remote  antiquity  ; 
iiuleed  it  is  generally  regarded  as  the  earliest  known  work  of  the 
Etruscan  cliisel  in  stone.  It  bears  an  inscription  in  Etruscan  cha- 
racters.   This  curious  relief  was  discovered  ages  since  at  Fiesole.*^ 


In  the  ijossession  of  the  Marchese   Strozzi  of  Florence  is  a 
sj^eccJiio,  wliich  has  been  pronounced  to  be  "  perhaps  the  most 

*  Juv.  Sat.  III.  171.  Koman  letters — Lautiiia  Nises.  Tliis 
fi  Buonarroti,  Michael  Angelo's  nephew  monuinent  is  illustrated  by  (jori,  Mus. 
(p.  95,  Explic.  ad  Denipst.  II.),  could  not  Etrus.  III.  p.  ii.,  tab.  18,  1  ;  and  by  Mi- 
tell  the  date  of  its  discovery;  he  only  cali,  Ant.  Pop.  Ital.  III.  i>.  80,  tav.  51. 
knew  he  had  received  it  from  his  ancestors.  Conestabile  (Mon.  Perug.  III.  p.  212)  re- 
Tlic  relief  is  about  H  ft.  9  in.  high.  The  gards  it  as  not  much  later  than  the  days  of 
Etruscan   in.scriptiou  would   run   thus    in  Uemaratus. 


CHAP.  XI..]  THE    8TR0ZZI    Sl'KCX'IIIO.  107 

bcautil'ul  :iii<l  elegant  mirror  that  ever  issued  I'roiii  the  tomhs  of 
J^truria."  It  was  I'ouiul  near  Sorano,  in  a  sepulehre  which  is 
supposed  to  have  belonged  to  the  necropolis  of  Sovana.  The 
figures  are  not  incised  on  the  bronze  as  usual,  but  are  in  low, 
Hat  relief,  and  so  elaborately  and  delicately  carved,  as,  though 
belonging  to  the  best  period  of  art,  to  mark  a  point  on  the  verge 
of  the  decadence.  At  the  first  glance  the}^  seem  to  represent  the 
Judgment  of  Paris,  but  you  presently  perceive  that  although 
there  is  the  usual  number  of  figures,  Juno  is  absent  from  the 
scene.  I'he  Phrygian  shepherd  is  there,  sitting,  half-draped,  on 
a  rock,  and  by  his  side  stands,  with  her  arm  round  his  neck,  in  a 
caressing  attitude,  the  ''  lively-glancing "  goddess.  Aphrodite. 
She  weai's  pendants  in  her  ears,  necklace,  and  armlets,  but  her 
onl}'  robe  has  fallen  to  her  knees,  leaving  her  charms  exposed. 
Opposite  Paris  stands  Pallas,  armed  and  draped,  leaning  on  her 
spear;  and  behind  her  is  a  naked  figure  of  female  form  and  features, 
and  with  female  ornaments,  holding  a  wand  or  sceptre,  which,  to 
complete  the  subject,  should  be  Jlera,  but  it  is  not,  for  it  is 
stooping  to  feed  a  swan;  and,  yet,  more  strange,  it  is  no  goddess 
at  all,  but  a  male,  or  rather  an  androgynous  figure.  The  inter- 
pretation of  the  scene  is  far  from  evident,  and  there  are  no 
inscriptions  attached  to  clear  up  the  mystery,  (lamurrini  takes 
the  hermaphrodite  for  the  (renins  of  Voluptuousness,  and  the 
entire  scene  to  represent  the  selection  by  Paris  of  sensual  pleasure 
in  2)reference  to  virtue  or  warlike  renown,  as  ty pitied  by  the  grey- 
eyed  goddess.  In  short  in  this  scene  Paris  is  supposed  to  be 
represented  r.s  the  moral  antithesis  of  Hercules."  This  mirror 
was  for  some  time  exhibited  in  the  Ktruscan  Museum  at  Florence, 
but  is  now  in  the  l'ala//.o  Stroz/.i,  in  the  Via  Faen/.a. 

M(_) N TK    FaI.TE UOX a . 

Helics  of  Etruscan  art  are  not  ahvays  found  in  sei)ulchres — 
the  celebrated  lamp  of  Cortona,  and  the  numerous  scarahri  of 
Chiusi,  are  evidences  to  the  contrary.  Vnit  the  most  abundant 
collection  of  non-sepulchral  relics  that  Etruria  has  produced  was 
discovered  in  the  summer  of  1838 — not  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
a  city  or  necropolis — not  even  in  any  of  the  rich  plains  or  valleys 
which  anciently  teemed  with  poi)ulation,  but,  strange  to  say ! 
near  the  summit  of  one  of  the  Apennines,  one  of  the  loftiest 
mountains  in  Tuscany,  which  rises  to  the  height  of  5,400  feet, 

-   I'.iill.  lust.  1S7.",  I'p-  S2— S4. 


103  FIREXZE.  [CHAP.  xi.. 

nnd  i'voiw  Avhieh,  Aii()sto  tells  us,  both  seas  are  visible.  This  is 

Monte    Falteroiia,    about    tweiity-tivt-    or    thirty    uiiles  east   of 

Florence,  the  mountain  in  Avhi('h  the  Arno  takes  its  rise,  as 
Dante  describes  it — 

Vn  tiuinioel  cbe  nasce  in  Faltorona. 

(.)n  tlie  same  level  with  the  source  of  this  celebrated  river  is  a 
lake,  or  tarn,  called  Ciliegeto,  on  whose  banks  a  shepherdess, 
sauntering  in  dreamy  mood,  chanced  to  cast  her  eye  on  some- 
thing sticking  in  the  soil.  It  proved  to  be  a  little  figure  in 
bronze.  She  carried  it  home  ;  and  taking  it  in  her  simplicity  for 
the  image  of  some  holy  man  of  God,  set  it  up  in  her  hut  to  aid 
her  private  devotions.  The  parish-priest,  paying  a  pastoral 
visit,  observed  this  mannikin,  and  incpiired  what  it  was.  "  A 
saint,"  replied  the  girl ;  but  incredulous  of  its  sanctity,  or  not 
considering  it  a  fit  object  for  a  maiden's  adoration,  he  carried  it 
fiway  with  him.  The  fact  got  Avind  in  the  neighbouring  town  of 
Stia  del  Casentino,  and  some  of  the  inhabitants  resolved  to  make 
researches  on  the  spot.  A  single  day  sufficed  to  bring  to  light 
a  quantity  of  such  images  and  other  articles  in  bronze,  to  the 
number  of  three  hundred  and  thirty-five,  lying  confusedly  on 
the  shores  of  the  lake,  just  beneath  the  surface.  They  then 
proceeded  to  drain  the  lake,  and  discovered  in  its  bed  a  prodigi- 
ous quantity  of  trunks  of  fir  and  beech  trees,  heaped  confusedly 
on  one  another,  Avith  their  roots  often  uppermost  as  if  they  had 
been  overthrown  by  some  mighty  convulsion  of  nature ;  and  on 
them  lay  many  other  similar  figures  in  bronze  ;  so  that  the  total 
number  of  articles  in  this  metal  here  discovered  amounted  to 
between  six  and  seven  hundred.  They  Avere  mostly  human 
figures  of  both  sexes,  many  of  them  representing  gods  and  Penates, 
varying  in  size  from  two  or  three  to  seventeen  inches  in  height. 
But  how  came  they  here  ?  Avas  the  question  Avhich  puzzled  e\'ery 
one  to  answer.  At  first  it  Avas  thought  theA'  liad  been  cast  into 
the  lake  for  preservation  during  some  political  convulsion,  or 
hostile  invasion,  and  afterwards  forgotten.  But  further  examina- 
tion shoAved  they  were  mostl}'  of  a  votive  character — ofterings  at 
some  shrine,  for  favours  expected  or  received.  Most  of  them 
liad  their  arms  extended  as  if  in  the  act  of  presenting  gifts  ; 
others  Avere  clearly  representations  of  beings  suffering  from 
disease,  especially  one  Avho  liad  a  Avound  in  his  cliest,  and  a 
frame  Avasted  by  consumption  or  atro})hy ;  and  there  Avere,  more- 
over, a  number  of  decided  cx-votos — heads  and  limbs  of  various 


CHAP.  XI..]    STRANGE  DISCOVERY  OX  MONTE   FALTERONA.    10J> 

portions  of  the  liuumu  body,  and  ni;uiy  iniii^'cs  of"  domestic 
animals,  also  of  a  votive  character.  All  tliis  implied  the  existence 
of  a  shrine  on  this  mountain,  surrounded,  as  the  trees  seemed  to 
indicate,  by  a  sacred  grove,  like  that  of  Feronia  on  Soracte,  and 
of  Silvanus  at  Ctere ;  ^  and  it  seemed  that,  by  one  of  those 
terrible  convulsions  to  which  this  land  has  from  age  to  age  been 
subject,  the  shrine  and.  grove  had  been  hurled  down  into  this 
cavity  of  the  mountain.  It  is  well  known  that  such  catastrophes 
have  in  past  ages  occurred  on  jNIonte  Falterona.  For  it  is- 
composed  of  stratified  sandstone  (mactgno),  and  argillaceous  schist 
{hisci((j()),  which  latter,  being  very  friable,  has  given  way  under 
the  pressure  of  the  superincumbent  mass,  and  caused  tremendous, 
landslips,  by  which  extensive  forests  have  been  precipitated 
down  the  slopes."  No  traces,  however,  of  a  shrine,  or  of  any 
.  habitation,  were  discovered  Avitli  the  relics  in  this  lake- 
There  Avere  some  articles  of  ver}'  different  character  mixed  with 
these  figures,  the  existence  of  which  on  such  a  site  was  still  more 
difficult  to  explain.  Such  were  fragments  of  knives  and  swords, 
and  the  heads  of  darts,  all  of  iron,  in  great  numbers,  not  less,  it 
is  said,  than  two  thousand,  much  injured  by  rust ;  besides  great 
chains,  and  fihultc,  and  shapeless  pieces  of  bronze  from  two. 
ounces  to  two  pounds  in  weight,  recognised  by  antiquaries  as  the 
primitive  money  of  Italy — the  as  rude,  which  preceded  the  coined 
metal,  or  ces  signatum,  and  was  valued  by  its  weight — together 
with  fragments  of  the  better  known  coinage.  Broken  pottery, 
too,  of  the  coarsest  description,  was  mingled  with  the  other 
articles,  and  also  found  scattered  at  some  distance  from  the 
lake. 

The  weapons  have  been  accounted  for  in  various  wa3'S — as  the 
relics  of  some  battle  fought  on  the  spot,  which,  be  it  remembered 
was  border-ground  for  ages  ;  ^  or  as  the  offering  of  some  military 


^  That  of  Silvaim.s  was  girt  about  with  these  landslip.s,  it  is  liigLly  probable  that 

fir-trees.     Virg.  Mn.  YIII.  r>99.  the  same  causes  were  in  operation  here  tliat 

'■•  Rei^etti  (II.  p.  91)    records    three    of  brought  about  the  fall  of  the  Ilossberg  in 

tliese    landslips:    the  first    on  15th  May,  Switzerland,  where  the  clayey  sirrtta,  lying 

1335,  when  a  spur  of  the  mountain  slid  beneath    the    heavier   conglomerate,    were 

down   more  than    four   miles,    burying   a  converted  into  mud  by  the  percolation  of 

town  with  all  its  inhabitants,  and  render-  water,  and  ceased  to  be  able  to  support  the 

ingthe  waters  of  the  Arno  turbid  for  more  superincumbent  weight.     The  .season  of  thc- 

than  two  months  ;  the  second  on  18th  May,  year  in  which  each  of  these  Italian  land- 

1641  ;  the  latest  on  15th  May,  1827,  when  slips  occurred,   just  after  the  fall  of  the 

the  Arno  was  again  reddened   for  several  early  rains,  and  the  melting  of  the  winter 

weeks  with  the  mud.     From  the  quantity  snow,  confirms  this  view, 

of  water  that  came  down  with  the  first  of  '  Bull.  lust.  1838,  p.  70 — Migliariui. 


110  FIEENZE.  [CHAP.  XL. 

legion  ;-  or  as  iiulicatincr  tliat  the  sliiiiiu  liere  was  sat-recl  to  the 
god  of  war. ' 

A  solution  of  the  mysteries  of  this  lake  has  been  otiered  by  the 
late  Dr.  Kmil  Braun,  the  learned  secretar}'  of  the  Arclneological 
Institute  of  liorne  ;  and  it  is  so  novel  and  ill^■eni(nls  tliat  I  must 
give  it  to  the  reader. 

He  commences  by  observing  that  tlie  trees  found  in  tlie  lake 
had  been  completely  deprived  of  vitality,  the  water  having 
absorbed  all  the  resinous  parts  which  they  possessed  when  green. 
He  considers  that  the  convulsion  or  dislocation  of  the  mountain, 
which  hurled  them  into  this  spot,  must  have  occurred  long  prior 
to  the  period  when  the  bron/es  and  other  articles  Avere  here 
deposited,  otlierwise  the  latter  woidd  liave  been  buried  beneatli 
the  former,  and  not  regularly  set  around  the  lake.  He  thinks 
that  the  lake  was  formed  at  the  time  that  the  landslip  occurred, 
and  that  its  waters  acquired  a  medicinal  quality  from  the  trees  it 
contained,  the  parts  which  gave  them  that  virtue  being  identical 
with  those  from  which  modern  chemistry  extracts  creosote.  Xow, 
the  diseases  which  are  shown  in  the  ex-votos,  are  just  sucli,  he 
observes,  as  are  remediable  by  that  medicine.  The  styptic  water 
of  Pinelli,  so  celebrated  for  stopping  the  hemorrhage  of  recent 
womids,  has  a  base  of  creosote  ;  and  hither,  it  seems,  Hocked 
crowds  of  wounded  warriors,  who  left  their  weapons  in  acknow- 
ledgment of  tlieiv  cure.  The  virtues  of  the  same  medicine,  in 
curbing  the  attacks  of  phthisis  are  now  recognised  by  medical  men 
of  every  school ;  and  by  jiatients  labouring  under  this  disorder 
the  lake  seems  to  have  been  especially  frequented.  Creosote 
also  is  a  specific  against  numerous  diseases  to  which  the  foir  sex 
are  subject,  and  such  seem,  from  the  figures,  to  have  resorted  in 
crowds  to  these  Avaters.  To  free  this  theory  from  the  charge  of 
caprice  or  fantasy,  the  learned  doctor  cites  the  case  of  a  similar 
lake  in  China,  which  is  known  to  have  imbibed  marvellous 
medicinal  qualities  from  the  trunks  of  trees  casually  innuersed  in 
its  waters.*^ 


-  Bull.  Inst.  1S88,  p.  (jti— lugliirami.  suuiinit  of  Blount  LeLanon,  and  in  its 
•'  Bull.  Inst.  1842,  \>.  180 — Braim.  waters  votaries  were  wont  to  deposit  their 
*  Bull.  Inst.  1S42,  pp.  179 — 184.  The  gifts,  which  were  not  only  of  lironze,  gold, 
•opinion  that  tlie  lironzes  were  depo.sited  as  and  silver,  hut  also  of  linen  and  hinaus  ; 
votive  offerings  around  the  lake,  is  borne  anil  a  yearly  festival  was  long  held  there, 
out  by  a  similar  fact  mentioned  by  ancient  which  was  ultimately  suppressed  by  Con- 
writers.  The  sacred  lake  and  grove  of  stantine.  See  Bull.  Inst.  1S45,  p.  96,  and 
Venus  Aphacitis,  in  Coilo-Syria,  between  tlie  authorities  there  cited, 
liiblos    and   Ilcliopolis,    stood    near    the 


CHAP.  XI..]       MYSTERY    OF    THE    LAKE    EXPLAINED.  HI 

1  loiive  it  to  medical  readers  to  detenniue  tlie  correctness  of" 
this  theory ;  to  me  it  seems  that  sc  noii  e  vera,  c  hen  trocato. 

I  must  add  a  word  on  the  hron/.es.  Most  are  very  rude,  like 
the  offerings  of  peasants,  but  a  few  are  in  the  best  Etruscan 
style.  One  anticjuar}'  considers  them  to  show  every  stage  of  art, 
from  its  infancy  to  its  perfection  under  Greek  influence,  and 
iigain  to  its  decline.''  Another  perceives  no  traces  of  Eoman, 
much  less  of  Imperial  times,  but  refers  them  all  to  a  purely 
native  origin/'  Certain  it  is  that  some  show  tlie  perfection  of 
Etruscan  art.  Such  is  the  figure  of  a,  warrior,  with  helmet, 
cuirass,  and  sliield,  generally  called  Mars,^  wliich  may  rival  that 
-of  the  said  deity  in  the  Florence  gallery, — a  Hercules,  with  the 
lion's  skin  over  his  shoulders — the  "  saint,"  I  believe,  of  the 
pastoycUa,  though  "not  in  saintly  garb,"** — a  Diana,  said  to 
resemble  the  celebrated  archaic  statue  of  marble  found  at  Pom- 
peii,— and  a  woman's  leg  and  arm  of  great  beaut3\"  These,  with 
:ji  few  more  of  the  choicest  produce  of  the  lake,  are  now  to  be 
seen  in  the  British  Museum,  in  the  "  Room  of  the  Bronzes." 

A  still  more  recent  discovery  has  been  made  on  one  of  the 
Apennines,  between  ]Monte  Falterona  and  Komagna,  where  many 
•coins  were  found,  principall}^  asses,  but  among  them  a  very  rare 
quincussis,  like  that  in  the  Bacci  collection  at  Arezzo,  wliich  till 
now  has  been  uni(pu'.^ 

Eighteen  miles  on  the  road  from  Florence  to  Arezzo  is  the 
little  town  of  Figiine,  which  had  never  been  suspected  of  possess- 
ing Etruscan  antiquities  in  its  neighbourhood,  till  in  1843  a 
sepulchre  Avas  discovered  on  a  hill  hardly  a  mile  beyond  it.  The 
roof  had  fallen  in,  l)ut  it  was  evident  that  the  tomb  had  been 
formed  of  masonry,  the  hill  being  of  too  soft  an  earth  to  admit  of 
sepulchres  being  excavated;  the  pavement  was  of  opus  incertaiii 
— a  ver}'  singular  feature,  which  I  have  never  seen,  or  heard  of 
as  existing  elsewhere  in  an  Etruscan  tomb.^     But  a  still  more 

'  Jligliarini,  Bull.  Inst.  1838,  i>.  (J9.  rcrtinu  of  the  pavement  wa.s  only  a  col- 

''  Micali,  Mon.  IiieJ.  p.  89.  lection  of  small  stones  put  down  at  random, 

'   Idem.  tav.  12.  for  no  mention  i.s  made  of  cement,  which 

■''  Idem.  tav.  l.*").  forms   the    basis   of   the   lioman  masonry 

^  For  notices  of  tliis  carious  lake  and  known  by  that  name.     Pavement  of  any 

its  contents,  see  Bull.  Inst.  1838,  pp.  65 —  description  is  almost  unknown  in  Etruscan 

68  (lughirami)  ;  1838,  pp.  ti9 — 70  (Migli-  tombs.     But  pavements  of  small  pebbles 

ariui  ;  1842,   pp.179 — 184   (Braun) ;  Mi-  have  been  found  in  the  so-called  tomb  of 

cali,   Mon.    Ined.    tav.    12 — 16    pp.    80 —  Agamemnon,  just   opened  by    Dr.   Schlie- 

102;  Braun's  review  of  the   same,  Ann.  nuum,  at  Mycente.     I  have  discovered  very 

Inst.  1843,  p.  354.  similar  jiavements  in  certain  Greek  tomb.s 

'  Jlicali,  Mon.  Ined.  p.  89.  which  I  have  opened  in  the  Cyrenaica. 

^  It  may  lie  that  the  so-called  (y)«.y  in- 


112  FIRENZE.  [CHAP.  xl. 

remarkable  thing  was  that  around  one  of  tlic  urns,  \\liifli  liad  a 
recumbent  female  iiuure  on  tlie  lid,  Avas  scattered  an  innnense 
quantity  of  g(dd  leaf  in  minute  fragments,  twisted  and  ciumpled, 
■\vliicli  seemed  to  have  been  thrown  over  the  figure  in  a  sheet  or 
veil,  and  to  have  been  torn  to  pieces  by  the  fall  of  the  roof, 
which  had  destroyed  most  of  the  m-ns.  It  was  of  the  purest 
gold,  beaten  out  very  thin ;  and  the  fragments  collected  weighed 
about  half  a  pound.'' 

Other  Etruscan  relics  have  been  discovered  in  the  neiglibour- 
hood  of  Florence  in  past  times.  Buonarroti — the  painter's 
nephew — states,  that,  in  1689,  at  a  spot  called  St.  Andrea  a 
]\Iorgiano,  in  the  heights  above  Antella,  a  village  a  few  miles  to 
the  south-east  of  Florence,  he  saw  an  Etruscan  inscription  cut  in 
large  letters  in  the  rock.'  At  Antella  has  also  been  found  a  stch'^ 
or  monumental  stone,  with  bas-reliefs,  in  two  compartments — one 
representing  a  pair  of  figures  on  the  banqueting-couch,  and  a 
slave  standing  by ;  the  other,  a  pair  sitting  opjiosite,  with  a  table 
between  them.  It  is  of  very  archaic  character,  and  the  Egyptian 
rigidity  of  the  figures  and  cast  of  the  countenances  is  very  marked. 
It  is  now  in  the  possession  of  Signor  Peruzzi  of  Florence.^ 

At  San  ^Nlartino  alia  Palma,  five  or  six  miles  from  Florence,  a 
little  to  the  left  of  the  road  to  Leghorn,  some  monmnents  of 
Etruscan  art  have  been  found — a  female  statue  of  marble,  head- 
less, with  a  dove  in  her  hand,  and  an  inscription  on  her  robes  ;  ^' 
and  a  singular,  circular,  altar-like  ci2U)ii>;,  four  feet  high,  with 
figures  in  high  relief — a  warrior,  preceded  by  two  lictors,  and 
followed  by  two  citizens,  one  of  whom  is  embracing  him.  It  has 
an  Etruscan  inscription  above. '^ 

^  For  a  (le.scriptiou  of  this  toiiil)  see  tliis  ciuiiiot  be  earlier  than  tlie  tiftli  ceu- 
Migliarini,  Bull.  Inst.  1843,  pp.  35-37.  tury  of  the  City,  because  the  males  here 

■•  Buoiiar.  p.  !>.5,  Explicat.  ad  Denipst.  are  beardless  ;  and  barbers  are  said  by 
torn.  II.  Passeri  (p.  (5.5,  ap.  (ion,  Alus.  Plinj-  (VII.  59)  to  liave  been  introduced 
Etrus.  III.  tab.  XV. ),  however,  represents  into  Rome  in  the  year  454  ;  whereas  tlie 
it  as  merely  a  huge  stone  cut  from  the  .style  of  ai't,  a  much  safer  criterion,  shows 
rock,  15  Roman  feet  hniii,  by  (5  high,  with  this  uionunient  to  be  of  mucli  earlier  date, 
letters  6  inches  in  height.  The  inscription  and  of  undoubted  Etruscan  antiquity.  See 
translated  into  Roman  letters  w-ould  be  \  "l.  I.  p.  381. 

«  IJuonarroti  (pp.  13,  29,  tab.  XLIII.) 
took  this  figure  for  Venus,  or  the  nynipli 
IJegoti,  of  whom  mention  has  already  been 

^  Inghiranii  give.s    illustrations  of   this       maile — Vol.  I.  p.  478. 
.singular  .sttle  (Mon.   Etrus.  YI.  tav.  CD.  '   Buonar.  p.  29,  tab.  XLVI.    The  lictor* 

E. )  This  is  an  instance  of  the  fallacy  of  had  no  axes  in  their /(Wcm.  liuth  these 
the  mode  of  detennining  the  antiquity  of  monuments  were  formerly  in  the  ]ios3ession 
monuments  from  the  ]presence  or  absence  of  the  Delia  Stufa  family.  Where  they 
of  the  beard.     Inghiranii  pronounces  that       ;xre  now  I  do  not  know. 


.    A    .    VIS 

cuncLi. 


CHAP.  XL.]      ETRUSaVN    EEMAIXS    AROUND    FLORENCE.         113 

At  San  Ciisciiino,  eight  or  ten  miles  on  the  rond  to  Siena, 
Etruscan  inscriptions  and  bronzes  have  been  found  in  ages  past ;  ^ 
and  about  the  ruins  of  a  castle,  called  Pogna,  or  Castro  Pogna, 
on  a  height  two  miles  to  the  Avest  of  Tavarnelle,  on  the  same 
road,  numerous  Etruscan  urns  have  been  found,  three  or  four 
centuries  since.  Tliey  are  said  to  have  been  of  marble  and  of 
elegant  character,  and  to  have  had  peculiarities  of  form  and  style. 
The  castle  was  destroyed  in  1185.  The  site  must  have  been 
orifdnallv  Etruscan.  ^ 


APPENDIX    TO    CHAPTER    XL. 

NoTK  I. — Tm:    Fi;.\n(;ois    Vase.     See  p.  81. 

This  monument  is  of  .such  splendour  and  interest,  that  it  demands  a 
detailed  description.  Like  the  ])ainted  jiottery  of  Etruria  in  general,  it 
represents  subjects  from  the  mythological  cycle  of  the  Greeks,  and  all  its 
inscriptions  are  in  the  Greek  character. 

To  begin  witli  the  neck  of  the  vase,  which  has  two  bands  of  figures : — 
The  ujiper  contains,  on  one  side,  the  Hunt  of  the  boar  of  Calydon.  All  the 
lieroes,  and  even  the  dogs,  have  their  appellations  attached.  The  most 
prominent  are  Pkleus,  ^Iei.eaokos,  Atai-VTE,  ^Melaxiox,  Akastos,  Asmetos, 
Simon,  and  the  great  Twin-brethren  Kastok  and  Poludeckes  (Pollux).  At 
each  end  of  this  scene  is  a  sphinx.  On  the  other  side  is  a  subject  which  is 
explained  as  the  Return  of  Theseus  from  the  slaughter  of  the  ^linotanr,  and 
the  rejoicings  consecpient  on  his  triumph.  A  galley  full  of  men  Avearing 
2>etasi^  and  in  attitudes  of  exultation,  is  approaching  the  land  ;  Phaidimos 
jumps  ashore  ;  another  casts  himself  into  the  sea,  in  his  eagerness  to  reach 
the  beach,  on  which  a  band  of  thirteen  youths  and  maidens — all  named  seriatim, 
and  holding  hands — are  dancing  in  honour  of  the  hero  Theseus,  who  plays 
the  lyre,  with  Ariaxe  (Ariadne)  at  his  side. 

The  second  band  has,  on  one  side,  the  Battle  of  the  Centaurs  and  Lapitha?, 
all  with  names  attached.  Here  again  Theseus  takes  part  in  the  condjat,  in 
which  the  Greeks  fight  fully  armed,  but  the  Centaurs  with  stones  and  boughs 
of  trees.  On  the  other  side,  are  the  Funeral  Games  in  honour  of  Patroclus,  repre- 
sented by  a  race  of  five  quadrifj(c,(\vi\Qn  by  Gluteus,  Automedox,  I)iomedes, 
Damasii'OS,  and  Hiro  .  .  ox;  while  Achileus  himself  stands  at  the  goal  with  a 
trijiod  for  the  victor,  and  other  tripods  and  vases  are  seen  beneath  the  chariots. 
The  third  and  principal  band  represents  the  .Marriage  of  Peleus  and 
Thetis.  The  goddess  is  sitting  in  a  Doric  temple.  Before  the  portico,  at 
an  altar,  designated  BOM . .,  on  which  rests  a  hantharus,  stands  her  mortal 
spouse,  his  hand  held  by  the  Centaur  Cjiikox,  who  is  accompanied  by  Iius,  with 

^  Buonar.  p.  96.  are   now  called  Le   Masse   del  Foggio  di 

'  Buonar.  pp.  33,  et  scq.     Repetti  (IV.       JIarcialla. 
\>.  498)  says  that  the  ruins  of  the  castle 


114  FIEEXZE.  [CHAP.  XL. 

her  caduceus ;  the  Xj-niphs  IIkstia  and  Chahiklo,  and  anotlicr  of  indistinct 
name  ;  Dionysos  bearing  an  amphora  on  his  slioulders  ;  and  the  tiiiee  IhiRAi. 
Next  comes  a  long  procession  of  deities  in  quadriga — Zkus  and  Hkra  in  the 
first,  attended  by  Okania  and  Kaliopk.  "Who  follow  in  the  next  two  chariots, 
is  not  clear — the  name  of  Anphitritk  is  alone  legible  ;  but  both  are  attended 
by  the  other  Muses.  Ares  and  Aphrodite  occupy  the  fourth  car ;  Hermes 
and  his  mother  Maia,  the  sixth  ;  and  the  name  of  Ocheaxos  is  alone  left  to 
mark  the  occupants  of  the  seventh.  IIkpiiai.stos  niountcd  on  liis  donki-y 
terminates  the  procession. 

On  the  fourtli  band,  Achilles  is  disi)laying  his  proverbial  swiftness  of  foot, 
by  pursuing  a  youth  who  is  galloping  with  a  pair  of  horses  towards  the 
gates  of  Troy.  The  same  subject  has  been  found  on  other  vases  ;  but  this 
is  the  first  to  make  known  the  youth  as  TROir.os.  The  son  of  Peleus  is 
followed  by  Athena,  Hermes,  by  his  mother  Thetis,  and  IiHodia — all  near 
a  fountain,  with  its  Greek  designation — xpijwj — where  Troilus  seems  to  have 
been  surprised.  Under  his  steeds'  feet  lies  a  water-jar,  called  v8pia,  which 
has  been  cast  away  in  terror  by  a  nymph  who  is  near  him.  The  walls 
of  Troy,  to  wliicli  he  hastens,  are  painted  white,  and  are  of  ngular 
Greek  masomy.  The  gate  is  not  arched,  but  has  a  flat  liiitil.  From  it 
issue  Hektor  and  Polites,  armed  for  the  rescue  of  their  brother.  Outside 
the  gate,  on  a  seat  or  throne  marked  Qukos.  sits  the  venerable  Priamos, 
talking  with  Antexor,  draped  like  himself  in  chiton  and  chlamys.  At  the 
fountain  stands  AroLOX,  and  a  Trojan  (Troox)  is  lilliiig  a  jar,  the  water  flow- 
ing from  spouts  like  panthers'  heads. 

On  the  other  side  of  the  fountain,  is  the  Return  of  PIephaistos  to  Heaven. 
Zeus  and  Hera  occupy  a  throne  at  one  end  of  the  scene,  and  behind  them 
are  Athexa,  Ares,  and  Artemis  ;  Avhile  before  them  stand  Dioxisos  and 
Haphrodite,  as  if  to  plead  for  the  offending  son  of  Jove,  who  follows  on  an 
ass,  attended  by  Silenoi  and  the  Nymphs  (Niphai). 

The  fifth  band  contains  the  common  subject  of  beasts  and  chiman-as  of 
A'arious  descriptions  engaged  in  combat,  or  devouring  their  prey — griffons, 
sphinxes,  lions,  panthers,  boars,  bulls,  &c. 

The  sixth  band  is  on  the  foot  of  the  vase,  and  represents  the  Pigmies, 
mounted  on  goats  for  chargers,  and  armed  with  slings  and  clubs,  encounter- 
ing their  foes,  the  Cranes.  Neither  of  these  last  two  l)ands  has  inscriptions. 
The  potter's  and  painter's  names  are  on  the  principal  band.  The  A'ase  speaks 
for  itself,  and  says, 

V132(DP\1A3M^^|T   M   >"  *^- ''tias  drew  me," 
and  epAOTIMO^MEHO/ESEA/  ••  Ergotimos  made  me." 

The  inscriiitious  run,  some  from  riglit  to  left,  but  most  from  left  to 
right,  generally  according  to  tlie  <lireeti)n  of  tlie  figures  to  wliieli  they  are 
attached. 

On  one  handle  of  tlic  amphora,  is  a  winged  Diana  grasiiing  two  lions 
b}'  the  neck,  and  on  the  otiier  a  simihu"  ligure  holding  a  2>aiitlier  and  a  stag.^ 

'  The  winjred  Artemis  on  tlie  Chest  of  type  in  tlie   Babylonian   cylinders,    -where 

Cypselus  held  in   this  way  a  lion  in  one  they  are  often  represented,  throttling  lions 

hand,  and  a  panther  in  the  other.    Pausaii.  or  swans. 
V.  19.     Such  figures  seem  to  have  their 


CHAP.  XL.]     PRANgOIS    VASE.— AMAZON    SARCOPHAGUS.  115 

And  bcnc.'itli  lliesc  groups  is  AiAS  (Ajax)  bearing  tlic  dead  bod}-  of  Akileus. 
Within  each  liandle  is  a  Fury,  witli  open  mouth,  gnashing  teeth,  wings 
spread,  and  in  the  act  of  running — tlie  same  figure  tliat  occurs  so  often  on 
Etruscan  vases  and  bronzes.  An  illustration  of  it  has  been  given  in  the  eyed 
hijlix  from  Vulci,  at  page  4G2  of  Vol.  I.  ;  and  a  further  specimen  is  presented 
in  the  goblet  at  page  128  of  this  volume. 

XoTK  II. — The  Amazon  SARCornAOus.     See  p.  9G. 

The  battle  of  the  Greeks  with  the  Amazons  was  a  favourite  subject  Avith 
ancient  artists,  and  representations  of  this  combat  arc  among  the  most  ex- 
quisite works  of  the  Hellenic  chisel  that  have  come  down  to  us.  They  adorned 
the  frieze  of  the  Temple  of  Apollo  at  Bass;u,  and  the  Mausoleum  of  Halicar- 
nassus,  and  with  what  wonderful  spirit  the  subject  was  treated  on  those 
monuments,  the  reliefs  in  the  British  Museum  remain  to  attest.  It  was 
sculptured  by  Phidias  on  the  .shield  of  the  great  chr3-seleiihantine  statue  of 
Pallas  in  the  Parthenon,  and  on  the  pedestal  of  the  Olympian  Jove  at 
Athens  (Pans.  I.  17,  2  ;  Plin.  xxxvi,  4,  4).  It  was  also  a  favourite  subject 
for  the  pencil  among  the  Greeks,  but  of  such  i)roductions  no  examples 
beyond  the  designs  on  painted  vases  have  hitherto  been  known  to  us.  This 
sarcophagus,  then,  is  unique  in  showing  us  how  the  subject  was  treated  in 
colours.  We  know  that  the  Poikile  at  Athens  was  adorned  with  pictures  of 
this  combat  by  Mikon,  the  ccntemjjorary  and  fellow-labourer  of  Polygnotus 
(Paus.  I.  15,  2  ;  Plin.  xxxv.  35)  ;  and  that  he  repeated  the  subject  on  one 
of  the  walls  of  the  Temple  of  Theseus  (Paus.  I.  17,  2);  and  it  must  have 
been  to  one.  or  both  of  those  paintings  that  Aristophanes  alludes,  when  he 
makes  the  Chorus  in  Lj-sistrata  (G77 — 9)  exclaim,  "  A  woman  is  an  excellent 
rider,  and  has  a  good  seat,  and  would  not  fall  oif  when  her  horse  gallops. 
Look  at  the  Amazons,  whom  ]\Iikon  painted  mounted  on  horses  fighting  with 
the  men  !  "  Mikon,  be  it  remembered,  was  renowned  for  the  skill  with  which 
he  depicted  horses  (Paus.  I.  18,  1).  It  is  by  no  means  improbable  that  in 
the  scenes  on  this  sarcophagus  we  see  copies,  entire  or  in  part,  of  those 
celebrated  Athenian  jifiintings.  One  feature  in  these  scenes  is  worthy  of 
notice.  The  heroines  are  not  represented  combating  from  chariots  in  the 
reliefs  either  from  Phigaleia  or  Halicarnassus  ;  nor,  so  far  as  we  know,  in 
an}'-  other  production  of  Hellenic  sculpture  or  painting  which  portrayed  this 
celebrated  myth,  unless  it  be  on  figured  vases.  In  this  respect  the 
sarcophagus  in  this  ^luseum  is  unicpie.  Of  vases,  the  only  instance  I  can 
recollect  in  which  quadrifjm  are  introduced  into  the  combat  of  Greeks  with 
Amazons,  is  that  of  tlie  grand  hvater  from  Puivo  in  the  ^luseimi  of  Naples. 
Mon.  Inst.  II.  taA'.  30. 


I  2 


THE    WALLS    OF    F.ESUL^. 


CPIAPTER    XLL 

FTESOI.'E.—F^ESZ^L^'F. 

Chi  Fiesol  liedifico  conobbe  el  loco 

Come  gia  per  gli  cieli  ben  coinposto. — Faccio  degli  Ubekti. 

Vires  antem  veteres  earum  uvliium  hoJieque  magnitudo  ostentat  mfeniuin. 

Yell.  Pateuculus. 

The  first  acquaintance  the  traveller  in  Italy  makes  with 
Etruscan  antiquities — the  first  time,  it  ma}'  be,  that  he  is  re- 
minded of  such  a  race — is  generalh'  at  Fiesole.  The  close 
vicinity  to  Florence,  and  the  report  that  some  remains  are  to  be 
seen  there,  far  older  than  Roman  days,  attract  the  visitor  to  the 
spot.  He  there  beholds  walls  of  great  massiveness,  and  a  few 
other  remains,  but  forms  a  very  imperfect  conception  of  the  race 
that  constructed  them.  He  learns,  it  is  true,  from  the  skill 
displa^-ed  in  these  monuments,  that  the  Etruscans  could  not  have 
been  a  barbarous  jieople ;  but  the  extent  and  character  of  their 
civilization  are  to  him  still  a  myster}'.  It  is  not  at  Fiesole  that 
this  early  jieople  is  to  be  comprehended. 

Who,  that  has  visited  Florence,  does  not  know  Fiesole — the 
Hampstead  or  Highgate  of  the  Tuscan  capital — the  Sunday  resort 
of  Florentine  Cockneyism  ?  Who  does  not  know  that  it  forms 
one  of  the  most  picturesque  objects  in  the  scenery  ai'ound  that 


CHAP.  xLi.]     THE    ETRUSCAN    WALLS    OF    FiESULiE.  117 

most  elegant  of  cities,  crowning  a  height,  three  miles  to  the 
north,  Avith  its  vine-shaded  villas  and  cj'press-girt  convents,  and 
rearing  its  tall  cathedral-tower  hetween  the  two  crests  of  the 
mount  ?  Who  has  not  lingered  awhile  on  his  wa}'  at  Dante' s 
mill,  and,  in  spite  of  the  exclusiveness  of  English  proprietorshiji , 
who  has  not  in  imagination  overleaped  the  walls  of  the  Villa 
hallowed  by  "  The  Hmidred  Tales  of  Love,"  and  beheld 

"  Boccaccio's  Garden  and  its  faeiy. 
The  love,  the  joyannce,  and  the  gallantry  ?  " 

Though  a  description  of  Fiesole  is  to  be  found  in  every  guide- 
book that  treats  of  Florence,  j'et,  as  an  Etruscan  city,  it  demands 
some  notice  from  me. 

As  the  visitor  ascends  tlie  hill  by  the  new  carriage-road,  he  will 
perceive,  just  before  reaching  the  town,  a  portion  of  the  ancient 
wall  climbing  tlie  steep  on  the  right.  This  is  a  ver}'  inferior 
si)ecimen,  in  point  of  massiveness  and  preservation,  to  what  he 
ma}''  see  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  cit}'.  Let  him  then  cross  the 
Piazza,  where  he  should  secure  the  services  of  Michele  Bongini 
as  cicerone,  and  take  the  path  behind  the  apse  of  the  cathedral, 
which  willlead  him  to  the  northern  brow  of  the  hill.  Here  he 
finds  a  superb  remnant  of  the  ancient  fortifications,  stretching 
away  to  his  right,  and  rising  in  twelve  or  fourteen  courses  to  the 
height  of  twenty  or  thirty  feet.  The  masonry  is  widely  different 
from  that  of  ancient  sites  in  southern  Etruria.  The  hard  rock  of 
which  the  hill  is  composed,  correctly  termed  macigno  by  Dante, 
not  admitting  of  being  worked  so  easily  as  the  tufo  and  other  soft 
volcanic  formations  of  the  southern  plains,  has  been  cut  into 
blocks  of  various  sizes,  as  they  chanced  to  be  split  out  from  the 
quarr}',  but  generally  squared,  and  laid  in  horizontal  courses. 
Strict  regularity,  however,  was  by  no  means  observed.  The 
courses  var}'  in  depth  from  about  one  foot  to  two  or  three,  the 
average  being  above  two ;  and  in  length  also  the  blocks  differ 
greatly,  some  being  as  much  as  seven,  eight,  nine  feet,  and  the 
longest  twelve  feet  and  a  half,  while  otliers  are  square.  The 
joints  are  often  oblique,  instead  of  vertical,  and  in  some  parts 
there  is  a  wedge-course,  as  in  the  walls  of  Pojmlonia,  Perugia, 
and  Todi,  but  without  au}^  apparent  object.  It  is  evident,  how- 
ever, that  the  aim  of  the  builder  Avas  regular  masonry,  but  he  . 
was  fettered  b}'  his  materials.  In  many  parts  where  the  angles 
of  the  blocks  did  not  fit  dose,  a  portion  was  cut  away,  and  a  small 
stone  fitted  in  with  great  nicety,  as  in  the  most  finished  polygonal 


lis  FIESOLE.  [CHAP.  xi.i. 

Avallini>'.  Thoimli  the  edges  of  the  blocks  have  in  general  suliered 
from  the  weather,  the  joints  are  sometimes  extremely  neat,  and 
it  is  apparent  that  snch  was  ori;;inallv  the  character  of  the  whole. 
No  cement  or  cramping  was  used  ;  the  masses,  as  usual  in  these 
early  structures,  held  together  by  their  own  weight.^ 

This  masonry  is  b}'  no  means  so  massive  as  that  on  other 
Etruscan  sites  of  the  same  character — Yolterra,  Euselhie,  Cortona, 
for  instance  ;  yet,  from  its  linish,  its  excellent  preservation,  and 
the  height  of  the  walls,  picturesquely  draped  with  ivy,  and  over- 
shadowed by  oaks  and  cypresses,  it  is  very  imposing. 

The  lower  entrance  to  the  lane,  by  which  the  visitor  descends 
from  the  Piazza,  marks  the  site  of  an  ancient  gate  ;  and  in  the 
road  below  it,  mixed  with  nu)dern  repairs,  are  remains  of  the  old 
pavement — not  of  polygonal  blocks,  as  used  by  the  llomans,  but 
of  large  rectangular  flags,  furrowed  transversely  on  account  of  the 
steepness  of  the  road.  This  is  a  style  often  adopted  by  the 
Greeks."  Its  dissimilarity  to  lioman  pavement,  its  relation  to 
the  gate  in  the  Etruscan  walls  hard  by,  and  the  large  size  of 
the  blocks  or  flags,  rendering  removal  a  work  of  great  difficulty, 
induce  me  to  consider  it  of  liltruscan  antiquity,  though  this  is  the 
only  site  in  Etruria  where  I  have  observed  it. 

In  this  portion  of  the  wall  open  two  passages,  whose  narrow 
dimensions  prove  them  to  have  been  nothing  but  sewers,  to  drain 
the  area  of  the  city ;  as  was  usual  on  Etruscan  sites.  In  the 
volcanic  district  such  sewers  are  cut  through  the  tufo  clifis  on 
wliicli  the  walls  rest ;  but  here,  as  in  other  cities  of  Northern 
Etruria,  there  being  no  dills,  and  the  fortifications  rising  from 
the  slope  and  forming  a  revi-tcnient  to  the  higher  level  of  the  city, 
they  are  made  in  the  wall  itself.     So   also   at  Yolterra.     Of  the 

^  At  the  angles  of  the  blocks  lioles  may  the  Greeks.  For  this  fact  I  am  imlebteJ 
often  be  observed,"  which  have  evidently  to  Jlr.  Edward  Falkener. 
been  made  subsequently  ;  most  probably,  -  This  ribbed  pavement,  or  cordoiiata, 
like  those  in  the  Coliseum,  in  the  search  is  frequently  met  with  in  the  Cyclopean 
for  the  metal  cramps,  which  were  supposed  cities  of  Italy.  It  is  found  at  Pozzuoli,  on 
to  hold  the  masses  together.  For  such  the  ascent  to  the  Street  of  Tombs.  I  have 
reckless,  destructive  barbarism  is  always  observed  it  also  in  the  ancient  roads  of 
ignorant  and  indiscriminating.  A  striking  Syracuse,  where  the  rock  itself  is  so  fur- 
proof  of  this  is  seen  in  the  temple  of  rowed,  and  on  the  ascent  to  the  Acropolis 
Jupiter  Panhellenius  in  ^Egina,  where,  even  of  Athens.  Tiie  iiaveraent  at  Cyrene,  ex- 
in  the  monolithic  columns,  the  barbarians  tolled  by  Pindar  (Pyth.  V.  121,  et  scq.),  is 
have  made  holes  for  the  same  purjjosc,  at  of  the  same  description.  Mr.  Edward 
the  height  where  they  had  been  accus-  Falkener  tells  me  that  he  has  remarked 
tomed  to  find  the  joints  of  the  fruxta  ;  similar  pavement  at  Eleusa  or  Sebaste 
thus  unwittingly  paying  the  highest  com-  in  Cilicia,  at  Labranda  in  Caria,  and  at 
pliment  to  the  exquisite  workmanship  of  Termessus  in  Pamphylia. 


CHAP.  XLi.]        ANCIENT    PAVEMENT    AND    SEWERS. 


119 


same  character  may  be  the  apertures  in  the  walls  of  the  so-called 
Pelasgic  towns  of  Latinm — Norha,  Segni,  and  Alatri ;  hut  these 
of  Fffisulu!  are  much  inferior  in  size.''  The  smaller  of  them  has 
a  doccia,  or  sill,  serving  as  a  si)out  to  carry  the  fluid  clear  of  the 
wall.  The  otlier  runs  in  very  far  in  a  straight  line,  hut  being 
too  small  to  admit  a  man,  it  has  never  been  fathomed.  But  the 
most  singular  feature  of  this  sewer  is,  that  on  the  wall  beneath  it 
is  scratched  a  figure,  the  usual  symbol  among  the  ancients  of 
reproductive  power.  It  is  here  so  slightly  marked,  as  easil}-  to 
escape  the  eye  ;  '^  it  may  possibl}'  have  been  done  by  some  wanton 
hand  in  more  recent  times,  but  analog}-  is  in  favour  of  its  antiquity. 
That  such  representations  were  placed  by  the  ancients  on  the 
walls  of  their  cities,  there  is  no  lack  of  j^i'oof.  They  are  found 
on  several  of  the  early  cities  of  Ital}-  and  Greece,  on  masonry 
polygonal  as  well  as  regular.' 

The  reason  of  this  s^'mbol  being  placed  in  such  positions  is  not 
easy  to  determine.  Inghii-ami  thought  it  might  be  to  intimate 
the  strength  of  the  cit}',  or  else  to  show  defiance  of  a  foe,  in 
accordance  with  the  ancient  gesture  of  contempt  and  defiance,  still 
in  use  among  the  southern  nations  of  Em-ope ;  **  it  ma}'  also  have 
had  the  same  meaning  in  this  as  in  other  cases,  where  it  was 
used  as  afasciiium  or  charm  against  the  effects  of  the  evil  eye." 


•*  The  openings  in  the  walls  of  these 
three  Latin  towns  are  large  enough  for  a 
man  to  enter,  and  may  have  been  ijosterns. 
It  may  he  questioned  if  they  were  conduits 
or  sewers,  though  that  at  Korba  is  of  the 
usual  size  of  Etruscan  sewers — about  seven 
feet  high,  and  three  wide. 

•*  Its  existence  was  unknown  to  the 
cicerone,  until  I  pointed  it  out  to  him  in 
June,  1876. 

'  The  best  known  of  these  sites  is  Alatri, 
where  the  symbol  triple<l,  and  in  relief,  is 
sculptured  on  the  lintel  of  the  above- 
mentioned  sewer,  postern,  or  ijassage, 
which  opens  in  the  polygonal  walls  of  the 
citadel.  It  is  also  found  tripled  on  the 
polygonal  Avails  at  Grrottatorre,  near  Cor- 
rese  in  Sabina.  On  the  ancient  wall  in 
the  Terra  di  Cesi,  three  miles  from  Terni, 
the  same  symbol  in  relief  occurs  in  a 
similar  position  at  the  angle  of  the  wall, 
which  is  here  of  rectangular  blocks  (Jlicali, 
Ant.  Pop.  Ital.  III.  p.  7,  tav.  1.3);  and 
on  the  ancient  fortifications  of  Todi,  on  the 
Urabrian  bank  of  the  Tiber,  of  .similar 
masonry,  it  is  found  in  prominent  relief, 


near  the  church  of  S.  Fortnnato.  Ask  for 
"  27  pezzo  di  marmo."  It  is  also  to  be 
seen  on  a  block  at  an  angle  of  the  walls  of 
Oea,  in  the  island  of  Thera,  in  the  JEgvean 
Sea,  with  the  inscription  toTs  (piXois  an- 
nexed, w  hich  has  been  considered  a  mere 
eujjhemism  to  a.ssist  the  fa sc in  um  in  avert- 
ing the  effects  of  the  evil  eye.  The  same 
turpicvla  ?•<;.«,  as  Varro  (L.  L.  VII.  97)  calls 
it,  has  been  found  on  the  doors  of  tombs 
at  Falazzolo,  the  ancient  Acre  in  Sicily, 
at  Castel  d'Asso  in  Etruria,  and  even  in 
the  Catacombs  of  Naples.  Ann.  Inst.  1820, 
p.  65  ;   1841,  p.  19. 

''  This  appears  the  most  probable  mean- 
ing. It  is  confirmed  by  what  Herodotus 
tells  us  of  Sesostris,  who,  in  his  victoi-ious 
march  through  Asia,  to  express  his  con- 
tempt for  those  people  who  had  otfered 
little  or  no  resistance  to  his  arms,  set  up 
xtclce  in  their  lands,  and  carved  thereon 
the  converse  of  this  symbol.   II.  102. 

''  The  occurrence  of  this  .symbol  on  the 
walls  of  Pela.sgic  cities  may  be  explained 
by  the  woi-ship  that  ancient  people  i>aid  to 
the  phallic  Hermes.     It  was  they  who  in- 


120 


FIESOLE. 


[chap.  xli. 


Following  the  line  of  walls  some  liundred  yards  to  the  east — 
TOii  formerly  came  to  an  arch  standing  ten  or  twelve  feet  in 
advance  of  them.  It  was  a  structure  of  ditierent  character,  and 
ajjparentlv  of  later  date ;  for  the  masonry  was  nmch  less  massive 
than  in  the  city  walls.  It  seemed  to  have  formed  part  of  an  o})en 
gateway,  or  projecting  tower,  for  there  were  traces  of  a  second 
arch  which  joined  this  at  right  angles,  uniting  it  to  the  wall.     It 


{0>     ^ 


i>kAcl..l  Ij  t.   W   C_„Ae,  li..\.. 

ANCIENT    GATEWAY,   OUTSIDE    THE    WALLS    OF    F.ESUL.E. 

was  prohahly  a  Eoman  addition.  This  picturesque  monument 
Avas  thrown  down  in  1848  hy  the  Fiesolani  themselves,  and  tlie 
piers  on  which  the  arch  rested  alone  remain  to  mark  its  site. 
The  woodcut  shows  it  as  it  was  more  than  thirt}'  years  ago. 

Beyond  this  you  can  trace  the  walls  in  fragments,  mixed  with 
the  small  work  of  modern  repairs,  running  in   a  straight  line  for 


troduced  it  into  Athens,  and  the  rest  of 
Greece,  and  also  into  Samothrace  (Herod. 
II.  51,  confirmed  by  tlie  coins  of  Lemnos 
and  Imbros,  says  Midler,  Etrusk.  einl.  2, 
3)  ;  and  probably  also,  with  the  mysterious 
rites  of  the  Cabiri,  into  Etruria  and  other 
jjarts  of  Italy.  Yet  the  worship  of  this 
symbol  was  by  no  means  confined  to  the 
classic  nations  of  antiquity.  It  seems  to 
liave  prevailed  also  among  the  nations  of 
the  far  East  ;  and  recent  researches  lead 
\as  to  conclude  that  it  lield  even  amon^'  the 
early  people  of  the  New  World.     Stephens' 


Yucatan,  I.  pp.  181,  434.  Not  to  dwell 
on  this  subject,  I  may  remark  that  as  tlie 
ancients  were  wont  to  place  these  satijrica 
siyna  in  their  gardens  and  Louses,  to  avert 
the  effects  of  the  envious  eye  (Plin.  XIX. 
19,  1),  so  they  may  well  have  been  i>laced 
on  the  walls  of  a  city  to  protect  its  inha- 
bitants. The  philosophical  idea  which 
they  symbolise  will  also  account  for  their 
use  as  sepulchral  emblems  ;  some  remark- 
able instances  of  which  are  to  be  seen  at 
Cliiusi,  Perugia,  and  Urvieto. 


CHAP.  XL!.]    ANCIENT    AECHWAY,   OUTSIDE    THE    WALLS.     121 

some  distance  al()n<f  the  Lrow  of  the  hill,  till  in  the  Borgo  Unto, 
ii  suburb  on  the  south-east  of  the  ancient  city,  you  find  them  turn 
at  rif,4it  angles  and  tend  south-westward.  On  your  way  up  the 
hill  from  the  Borgo  Unto  to  S.  Polinari,  you  cross  some  basaltic 
pavement,  and  just  beyond  it,  in  a  portion  of  the  wall  where  ver}^ 
massive  blocks  are  laid  on  very  shallow  ones,  you  may  observe 
the  site  of  a  gate  now  blocked  up,  but  indicated  by  the  pavement 
leading  up  to  it.  Beyond  this  is  a  long  line  of  the  ancient 
masonr}',  more  irregular  and  less  massive,  tending  westward,  and 
terminating  at  some  quarries  ;  then  after  a  wide  gap  you  meet  the 
wall  again,  and  trace  it  down  the  steep  to  the  modern  road  where 
you  first  descried  it.^  AVestward  of  this  there  are  said  to  be  some 
fragments  below  the  height  of  San  Francesco,  but  I  never  could 
find  them,  though  I  have  traced  them  up  the  same  hill  on  the 
northern  side.  Few  will  think  themselves  repaid  for  their  fatigue 
in  following  out  the  entire  line  of  walls,  over  the  broken  ground, 
and  through  the  vineyards  and  olive-groves  on  the  slopes.  Unless 
the  visitor  wish  to  verify  for  himself  the  extent  and  outline  of  the 
city,  he  may  rest  content  with  seeing  that  part  of  the  wall 
first  described,  Avliich  is  by  far  the  finest  and  best  preserved 
portion  of  the  whole. 

The  extent  of  the  walls  in  their  original  state  Avas  not  great — 
less  than  two  miles  in  circuit.'^  Fsesuhe  was,  therefore,  nnich 
inferior  in  size  to  certain  other  Etruscan  cities — Veii,  Volaterrje, 
Ag3'lla,  Tarquinii,  for  instance.  The  higliest  crest  of  the  hill  to 
the  north-west,  where  the  Franciscan  convent  now  stands,  was 
originalh'  the  Arx  ;  for  here  have  been  found,  at  various  times, 
traces  of  a  triple  concentric  wall,  engirdling  the  heiglit,  all  within. 

^  On  this  side  of  tlie  city  tlierc  are  said  display  a  fjreatness  not  inferior  to  tliat  of 

to  be  traces  of  a  gate,  which,  from  one  of  any  other  Etruscan   city.     He  inclines  on 

the  lintels  still  standing,  must  have  been  this  account  to  rank  it  among  the  Twelve. 

of  I'lgyptian  form,  narrowing  upwards,  like  And  so  also  Miiller,  and  the  earlier  writers 

the  doorways  of  the  Etruscan  tombs.    Ann.  on  the  antiquities  of  Italy.     15ut  on  this 

Instit.  183.^,  p.  14.  score,    there    ai-e    other   minor   towns    of 

^  So  says  Micali  (Ant.  Po]).  Ital.  II.   p.  Etruria  which  might  compete  with  it  for 

200),  who  classes  it  with  Ruselhe,    Popu-  that  honour.      Fiesuhu   was    proliably   de- 

lonia  and  Cosa  ;  but  the  i)lans  of  the  said  pendent  on  Volaterne  or  Arrctium. 

cities  which  he  attaches  to  his  work,  give  Miiller  (I.  3,  3)  cites  Ftesuhe  as  an  in- 

widely    ditl'ercnt    measurements,    Fiesuhu  .stance   of  the  quadrangular  form,    which 

being  much  superior  in  size  to  the  last  two,  was  usually  given  to  Etruscan  cities,   and 

though  smaller  than  the  first.      In  fact  his  thence  copied  in   the  original  city  of  llc>- 

plan  represents   it  as  about  8800  feet  in  mulus— A'oHut  qaudrata — a  custom  based 

circumference,    or   just    1§   English   mile.  on  religious  usages.     Dion.  Hal.  I.  p.  75. 

Niebuhr  (I.  p.  121,  Eng.  trans.)  was  there-  Plutarch,  Komul.  10.     Fcstus,  v.  Quadrata. 

fore  misinformed  when   he  said    that  the  Solinus,  Polyh.  cap.  II.      Cf.  Varro,  Ling, 

walls,  theatre,  and  other  ruins  of  Fa;suhe  Lat.  Y.  113.     Jliiller,  III.  6,  7. 


122 


PIESOLE. 


[chap.  xli. 


the  outer  line  of  the  ancient  fortifications,^  Nothing  of  the  triple 
wall  is  now  to  be  seen.  In  the  Church  of  S.  Alessandro,  on  the 
same  height,  are  some  coknnns  of  clpolUno,  ^Yhich  probably 
belonged  to  a  Roman  temple  on  this  spot." 


Mi:i/liir' 


TOISES  FRANi^AISCS 


SO  100 


II'      1 1 


PLAN    OF    FIKSOLE. 


a  Line  of  the  Etruscan  Walls. 
b  Etruscan  Gateway. 


f/  Piazza. 
A  Cathedral. 


r   Ancient  Archway  outside  the  walls.  i  San    Francesco,    on    the    site   of    the 
d  Steps  of  an  ancient  buildinj,'.  Acropolis. 

c    Roman  Theatre.  k  Quarries. 

/  Wall,   commonly  called   the  "Etruscan  I    Fonte  Sotterra. 
Palace." 

Though  little  of  anticpiity  is  to  be  seen  on  this  height,  the 
visitor  should  not  foil  to  ascend  it  for  the  sake  of  its  all-glorious 
view.  No  scene  in  Italy  is  better  known,  or  has  been  more  often 
described,  than  that  "from  the  top  of  Fesole."     Poets,  painters, 


^  Inghirami,  Guida  di  Fiesole,  p.  '58. 
This  inner  line  of  wall  is  not  of  frequent 
occurrence  in  Etruscan  towns  ;  more  com- 
mon, however,  in  the  nortliern  than 
southern  district.  The  same  may  lie  said 
of  double  heights,  or  arces,  within  tiie 
city-walls,  of  which  Fuisulse  presents  -a 
specimen. 

-  On  this  height  was  discovered  in  1814 
the  only  instance  known  of  the  favisscc 


attached  to  temples ;  but  after  a  few 
months  they  were  reclosed,  and  are  no 
li)nger  to  be  seen.  Inghir.  op.  cit.  p.  40. 
iAIiiller  (Etrusk.  IV.  2.  5)  who  cites  Del 
Rosso  (Giorn.  Arcad.  III.  p.  113)  describes 
them  as  "round  chambers  lined  with 
masonry  and  contracting  upwards" — i.e., 
like  the  thoJl  of  the  Greeks,  the  Treasuries 
of  Atreusand  Minyas,  and  the  lower  iirison 
of  the  TuUianum  at  Rome. 


CHAP.  XLi.]  THE    ANCIENT    THEATEE.  123 

pliilosoplicrs,  liistorliuis,  aiul  tourists,  have  all  kiiuUed  with  its 
iiispinition.     And  in  trutli, 

'•  Dull  would  lie  be  of  soul  who  could  pass  hy 
A  sifjht  so  touchiiig-  in  its  majesty." 

Description,  then,  is  here  needless.  Yet  I  may  remark,  that 
with  all  its  vastness  and  diversity,  the  scene  lias  a  simple  character. 
All  the  luxuriant  pomp  of  the  Arno-vale,  and  the  grandeur  of  the 
inclosing  mountains,  are  hut  the  frame-work,  the  setting-oft"  of 
the  picture,  which  is  Flohkxce,  fair  Florence — 

"  The  brightest  star  of  star-bright  Italy  I " 

hence  heheld  in  all  her  hrilliancy  and  heauty. 

"NVithin  the  walls  of  Fiesole,  there  are  few  remains  of  antiipiity. 
The  principal  is  the  Theatre,  discovered  and  excavated  in  1809 
b}'  a  Prussian  noble,  Baron  Hchellersheim.  It  lies  in  a  vineyard 
below  the  cathedral,  to  the  east.  To  visit  it,  you  must  get 
tickets  at  a  chemist's  shop  in  the  piazza,  at  half  a  franc  each 
person. 

As  you  descend  the  steps,  a  wall  is  pointed  out  to  the  left, 
below  the  surface,  some  sixty  yards  in  length,  composed  of  rusti- 
cated but  irregular  masonry,  not  unlike  the  city-walls,  though  ol 
much  smaller  blocks.  It  has  received  the  name  of  the  "Etruscan 
Palace,"  but  to  the  ciceroni  on  these  sites  no  more  credit  shoidd 
be  given  than  to  the  "  drab-coloured  men  of  Pennsylvania." 

The  Theatre  had  six  gates  or  entrances  in  the  outer  circuit  of 
Avail,  with  twenty  tiers  of  seats,  and  five  flights  of  steps  ;  the 
seats  are  of  massive  blocks,  quarried,  like  those  of  the  city-walls, 
from  the  hill  itself,  and  the  steps  divide  them  into  six  cunci  or 
wedges.  The  arena  is  very  clearly  marked  out,  so  also  is  the 
j^roHccniiim,  with  the  trench  in  front  sunk  to  hold  the  sijMriiiyn,  or 
curtain.  On  the  slope  are  five  parallel  vaults  of  ojnis  incertuni 
and  stone  brick-work,  called  by  tbe  Fiesolani,  Le  Buche  delle 
Fate,  or  "Dens  of  the  I'airies;  "  but  verily  the  fairies  of  Italy 
must  be  a  gloomy  race,  whom 

juviit  ire  sub  umbra 

Desertosque  videre  locos, 

if  they  take  up  with  such  haunts  as  these ;  no  way  akin  to  the 
frolicsome  sprites,  "  the  moonshine  revellers"  of  merry  England. 
Such  dark,  dank,  dripping,  dismal  "  dens  "  as  these  would  freeze 
the  heart  of  a  ^lab  or  a  Titania. 


124  FIESOLE.  [CHAP.  xLi. 

This  Theatre  was  hnig  thought  to  be  of  Etruscan  origin ;  but 
more  extensive  research  into  what  may  be  called  the  comparative 
auatonw  of  antiquities,  has  determined  it  to  be  llonian.^  The 
same  may  be  said  of  the  '*  Palace  "  adjoining. 

In  the  Borgo  Unto  is  a  curious  fountain,  called  "  Fonte  Sot- 
terra."  You  enter  a  Gothic  archway,  and  descend  a  vaulted 
passage  by  a  long  flight  of  steps  to  a  cave  cut  in  the  rock.  At  a 
still  lower  level,  you  reach  a  long  shapeless  gallery,  ending  in  a 
little  reservoir,  also  hollowed  in  the  rock.  The  water  is  extremely 
pure,  and  formerly  supplied  the  whole  neighbourhood,  but  the 
Fonte  was  closed  in  1872. 

Inghirami  regards  this  fountain  as  an  Etruscan  wt)rk  ;  but  I 
could  perceive  no  proof  of  such  an  origin.^ 

Only  ten  or  twelve  paces  from  this  Fonte,  a  remarkable  cistern 
or  reservoir  was  discovered  in  1832.  Its  walls,  except  on  one 
side  where  a  flight  of  steps  led  down  into  it,  Avere  built  up  with 
masonry,  in  large  rectangular,  rusticated  blocks.  It  was  roofed 
in  by  the  convergence  of  several  horizontal  laA-ers  of  thin  blocks, 
and  the  imposition  of  larger  slabs  in  the  centre,  on  the  same 
principle  as  the  celebrated  Regulini-Galassi  tomb  at  Cervetri.' 
It  was  remarkable,  that  though  undoubtedly  a  reservoir  or  foun- 
tain— for  it  was  discovered  by  tracing  an  ancient  water-channel 
which  led  from  it — there  were  no  traces  of  cement  in  the  masonry. 
This  fact,  and  the  very  ancient  style  of  its  vaulting,  indicate  an 
Etruscan  origin ;  which  is  confirmed  bj'  the  discovery  of  sundry 

^  The   plan    of   tlic  theatre   is  Roman.  "  probaLly  of  old  Etruscan  construction" 

Zsieljuhr,  however,  has  thro\»'n  the  weight  (II.    p.  241).      Inferior  men,    it    may  be, 

of  his  great  name  into  the  opposite  scale,  but  better  antiquaries,  have  decided,  how- 

and  has  said,  "That  this  theatre  was  built  ever,  to  the  coutrarj'.      Indeed  those  great 

before  the  time  of  Sylla  is  indubitable  ;  its  men  lose  much   of   their  authority  when 

.size  and  magnificence  are  far  beyond  the  they  treat  of  matters  within  the  province 

scale  of  a  Roman  military  colony  ;  and  how  rather  of  the  jiractical  antiquary  than  of 

could  such  a  colony  have  wished  for  any-  the  historian.     Their  want  of  personal  ac- 

thing  but  an  amphitheatre?"   (I.  p.  135,  (piaintiince  with  localities  and  monuments, 

Eng.   trans.)     It   may  be  remarked  that  or  of  opportunities  for  extensive  comparison 

Fa^sulie    mu.st   have   fallen    under   Roman  of  styles  of  construction  and  of  art,  leads 

domination  with  the  I'est   of  Etruria  two  them  at  times  into  misstatements  of  facts, 

centuries   before   Sylla's    time  ;    and    that  or  to  erroneous  conclusions,  which,  under 

other   towns    of    Etruria   which    received  more  favourable  circumstances,  they  would 

military  colonies,  such  as  Yeii,  Falerii,  and  never  have  uttered,  or  with  the  candour  of 

Luna,  had  theatres,  as  we  learn  from  local  great  minds,  the\'  would  have  been  most 

remains  or  from  inscriptions,   even  where,  read}'  to  i-enounce. 

as  in  the  first  two  cases,  we  can  find  no  ■*  Guida  di  Fiesole,  p.  5G. 

vestiges  or  record  of  amphitheatres.     Kie-  '^  A  similar  vaulting  has  been  found  in 

buhr  elsewhere  (III.   p.  311)  asserts  that  an  Etruscan  crypt  at  Castellina  del  Chianti. 

"  the  theatre  of  Fi«sul;e  is  in  the  grandest  Ann.  Inst.  1S35,  j).  9. 
Etruscan  style. "     !Miiller  also  thinks  it  wa.s 


CHAP.  xLi.]      FOXTE    SOTTEEEA— NO    TOMBS    OPEX.  125 

(iiupharir  of  tluit  cliaracter,  and  fragments  of  water-pots  buried  in 
the  mud  wliicli  covered  the  bottom.  This  reservoir  was,  mifor- 
tunately,  reclosed  the  year  after  it  was  opened/'  It  seems  to  me 
highl}' probable  that  this  was  the  original  fountain  on  tin;  spot, 
and  that  when  it  no  longer  answered  its  purpose,  eitlier  by  falling 
out  of  repair,  or  b}'  ceasing  to  supply  the  wants  of  the  jjopulation, 
it  was  covered  up  as  it  was  found,  and  the  Fonte  Sotterra  dug  in 
its  stead.  The  nnich  greater  depth  of  the  latter  favours  this 
oi^inion. 

No  tombs  remain  visible  on  this  site,  though  a  few  have  been 
opened  by  Signor  Francois."  The  hardness  of  the  rock  of  which 
the  hill  is  comi)osed  forbade  the  excavating  of  seimlchres  in  the 
slopes  around  tlie  town  ;  the  only  sort  of  tomb  which  would  have 
been  formed  on  such  a  site  is  that  built  up  with  masonry  and 
piled  over  with  earth,  like  the  Tanella  di  Pitagora  at  Cortona, 
or  the  Grotta  Sergardi  at  Camuscia.  If  such  there  were  they 
are  no  longer  visible.  Nothing  like  a  tumulus  could  I  2)erceive 
around  I'iesole.  Yet  there  are  spots  in  the  neighbourhood  Avhich 
one  experienced  in  such  matters  would  have  little  hesitation  in 
pronouncing  to  be  the  site  of  the  ancient  cemetery.  Relics  of 
ancient  Fiesuhe  have  at  various  times  been  brought  to  light, 
within  or  around  the  walls  of  the  city.  One  of  the  most  striking 
is  the  bas-relief  of  a  Avarrior  in  the  Palazzo  Buonarroti,  Florence, 
mentioned  in  the  last  chapter,  whose  Etruscan  inscription  and 
archaic  character  testify  to  the  high  antiquit}'  of  Fa?suhie. 

In  1829,  a  singular  discovery  was  made  here  of  more  than  one 
thousand  coins  of  Poman  consuls  and  families.'* 

^  Full  particulars  of  it  have  been  given  tunic,  with  her  tongue  lolling  out,  holding 

hy  Inghii-anii  and  Pasqui,  in  the  Annals  of  a  serpent  in  each  hand,  and  iu  the  act  of 

the  Institute,    1835,    pp.8 — IS;    whence  running, — on  the  reverse,  something,  which 

the  above  account  is  taken.  may  be  part  of  awheel,  and  the  inscrijition 

'  Inghiraiui(Mon.P"trus.  I.  p.  14)  speaks  "  phesu,"   in   Etruscan   characters.     The 

of    cinerary   urns   found  at    Fiesole,    but  Due    de   Luraes    ascribes    these   coins   to 

without  human  figures  recumbent  on  the  Fa'sulre — written  *ai(roi)Aat  by  the  Greeks, 

lids  a-s  usual.  But  Cavedoni,  of  ]\Iodena,   considers  the 

"  An  account  of  them  was  published  by  inscription  to   have  reference  not  to  the 

Zannoni  in  18.30.     SeealsoBull.  Inst.  1829,  place  of  coinage,  but  to  the  Fury  or  Fate 

p.  211  ;  1830,  p.  205.     There  were  70  lbs.  on  the  obverse,  and  explains  it  as  fiiiaa,  or 

weight  of  silver  deimrii — Inghirami  says  Fate,  here  written  with  a  digamma  pre- 

100  lbs. — all  coined  imor  to  the  defeat  of  fixed.     Bull.  Inst.  1842,  p.  156.     hlcoi, 

Catiline,  63  years  n.c.     Guida  di  Fiesole,  we   are   told   by  Hesychius,   were   "gods 

p.  17.  among  the  Etruscans  ; "  and  "^sar,"we 

Etruscan  coins  ascribed  to  Fajsuhe  have  know  to  be  the  Etruscan  word  for  "god." 

been  found  at  Cicre  and  Yulci,  though  not  Dio.  Cass.  LVI.  29  ;  Sueton.  Aug.  97.     It 

on  the  spot.     They  are  of  silver,  having  on  has  been  suggested  that  .tsar  may  be  but 

the  obverse  a  winged  Gorgon,  in  a  long  the   Greek   word   adopted,    and  with   an 


12G  riESOLE.  [chap.  xli. 

Fivsulj\?,  though  known  to  have  heen  an  Etruscan  city,  from  its 
extant  remains  and  the  monuments  at  various  times  found  on  the 
spot,  is  not  mentioned  as  such  in  liistorv.  This  must  have  been 
owmg  to  its  remoteness  from  Home,  -which  preserved  it  from 
immediate  contact  with  tliat  power,  prohahl}' till  the  final  subjuga- 
tion of  Etruria,  when  it  is  most  likely  that  Fresulre,  with  the 
few  other  towns  in  tlie  northern  district,  finding  the  great  cities 
of  the  Confederation  had  j'ielded  to  the  conqueror,  was  induced 
to  submit  without  a  struggle.^ 

The  first  record  we  find  of  it  is  in  the  year  529,  when  the 
Gauls,  making  a  descent  on  the  Pioman  territory,  passed  near 
Faesula?,  and  defeated  the  Komans  \vho  went  out  against  tliem.^ 
A  few  years  after  this,  when  Annibal,  after  his  victory  on  the 
Trebia,  entered  Etruria,  it  Avas  by  the  unusual  route  of  Fresulte.^ 
The  cit}'  also  is  represented  b}'  one  of  the  poets  as  taking  part  in 
this  Second  Punic  AVar,  and  as  being  renowned  for  its  skill  in 
augury.''  Xo  farther  record  is  found  of  it  till  the  Social  AVar, 
about  90  B.C.,  when  Ejesulie  is  mentiimed  among  the  cities  which 
suffered  most  severely  from  the  terrible  vengeance  of  Rome,  being 
Liid  waste  with  fire  and  sword.'  And  again,  but  a  few  years 
later,  it  had  to  endure  the  vengeance  of  Sylla,  when  to  punish 
the  city  for  having  espoused  the  side  of  his  rival,  he  sent  to 
it  a  military  colon}-,  and  divided  its  territor}'  among  his  officers.^ 


Etruscan  termination.     But  Avhy  refer  to  was  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Tiber,  or  more 

Hellenic  sources  for  Etruscan  etymologies —  probably  ^sula,  a  town  near  Tibur. 

a  system  which  has  proved  so  unsuccessful  ■*  I'olyb.  II.  25. 

and  unsatisfactory  ?     It  is  more  probable  -  I'olyb.  III.  82  ;  cf.  Llv.  XXII.  3. 

that  the  Etruscan  form,  with  which  we  are  •'  Sil.  Ital.  VIII.  478 — 

not  acfiuainted,  was  a  compound  with  the  « /i-  -^    j.         •    •   ^             i-  i    •   •      i- 

.   .  .  ,\,„  ^  „        ,.                 .      •    T^  Anuit  et  sacris  mterpres  fulmmis  alls, 

initial      \  el,    so  otten  occurring  in  Wrus-  ^       , 

can  jiroper  names.     The  gold  coin,  with 

the  Etruscan  legend   "  Velsu,''  which  Ses-  A  goddess  named  Ancharia  was  worshipped 

tiui  assigned  to   Felsina   (Bologna),    but  here,  says  TertuUian  (Apolog.  21  ;  ad  Na- 

!Muller  refen-ed  to  Yolsinii  (see  p.  522)^  tiones,  II.  8),  which  has  been  confirmed 

may  it  not  be  proper  to  Fiesulfe  ?     jMil-  by  inscriiilions.      Grori,    In.scr.    II.   p.   77, 

lingen,   however,  considered   it  of  a  bar-  cf.  p.  88.     This  fact  establishes  the  correct 

barous   ijcople,    or   a   counterfeit,     Xum.  reading  to  be   "  Fiusulanorum  Ancharia," 

Anc.  Ital.  1^.171.  and  not  ".Esculanorum,"  as  some  copies 

^  The   name  is  found  in  Florus  (I.  11),  have    it.     Tiie   Etruscan    familj'-name   of 

but  it  is  manifest  from  the  context  tliat  "Aucari,"   not  unfrcquently  met  with  at 

Fffisuhe  is  not  tlie  true  reading.     A  city  so  Cliiusi  and   Perugia,    and   also    found   at 

remote  from  Home,  and  of  Etruscan  origin,  ]\Iontalcino,  has  doubtless  a  relation  to  the 

could  not  have  been  referred  to  among  the  name  of  this  goddess.     See  Jliiller,   I.  p. 

neighbouring   Latin    cities,    which  in    the  421. 

early  days  of  the  Republic   struck  terror  ■•  Flor.  III.  18. 

into  the  Komans.     The  true  reading  must  *  Cicero,    in   Catil.   II.   9  ;   III.  G  ;  pro 

cither  be  Fidenas,  which,  though  Etruscan,  Mureua,  24. 


CHAP.  xLi.]  niSTOEY    OF    F^SUL^.  127 

Still  later  it  ^vi^s  made  the  head-quiirters  of  Catiline's  con- 
spirators, and  actively  espoused  his  cause."  We  learn  from  a 
statement  of  Pliny,  that  it  must  have  retained  the  right  of  Eoman 
citizensliip  in  the  reign  of  Augustus."  It  was  besieged  and  taken 
by  the  troops  of  Belisarius,  a.d.  539.  At  what  period  it  gave 
birth  to  Florence,  which,  rather  than  the  paltry  village  on  the 
hill,  must  be  regarded  as  the  representative  of  the  ancient 
Fiesulai,  is  a  matter  of  dispute  ;  some  thinking  it  as  early  as  the 
time  of  Sylla,  and  that  his  colonists  removed  from  the  steep  and 
inconvenient  height  to  the  fertile  plain  ;^  others  considering  it  to 
have  been  at  a  later  date.  It  is  certain,  however,  that  Florence 
existed  as  a  colony  under  the  Romans.  The  princijial  emigra- 
tion from  Fjesuhe  to  Florence  seems  to  have  taken  place  in  the 
middle  ages. 

One  of  the  attractions  of  Fiesole  was,  till  of  late  3'ears,  La  Badia, 
a  quaint  old  abbey  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  long  the  residence  of 
the  Cavalier  Francesco  Inghirami,  the  patriarch  of  Etruscan  anti- 
quaries, whose  profound,  learning  and  untiring  research  had  won 
him  an  European  renown.  When  I  had  the  honour  of  making 
his  acquaintance  he  was  suffering  from  that  illness  from  which 
he  never  recovered;  yet  his  mind  was  active  as  ever;  even  then  his 
peuAvas  not  idle,  or  he  relaxed  it  onl3^to  exchange  it  for  the  pencil. 
He  was  not  only  the  author;  he  was  also  the  printer,  the  publisher, 
and  even  the  illustrator  of  his  own  works,  for  he  drew  Avitli  his 
own  hand  the  numerous  plates  of  the  voluminous  Avorks  he  has 
given  to  the  Avorld  ;  and  to  insure  correctness  he  had  recourse  to 
a  most  tedious  process,  which  doubled  his  labour ;  j'et  it  gave 
his  illustrations  tlie  merit  of  accuracy,  which  in  the  works  of 
some  other  Italian  antiquaries  is  wanting,  where  most  essential. 
Inghirami  it  was  who,  with  Micali,  was  instrumental  in  bringing 
the  almost  obsolete  subject  of  Etruscan  antiquities  before  the 
world.  They  took  the  dusty  topic  from  the  shelf,  where  since 
the  days  of  Dempster,  Gori,  Passeri,  and  Lanzi  it  had  lain  ;  held 
it  up  to  public  view,  till  it  became  popular  in  Italy  and  in 
other  lands,  and  was  taken  into  favour  b}'  princes  and  nobles. 
Inghirami  died  at  a  good  old  age.  Micali  was  cut  off  just  before 
him;  and  our  own  countrj^nan,  Millingen,  together  with  ^'er- 
raiglioli,  a  pair  not  inferior  in  usefulness  or  merited  reputation, 

«  Sallust.   Bell.    Cat.    24,  27,    30,    43.  rtolemy   (Geog.    p.  72^    mention   Fsesulse 

Appian.    Uell.    Civ.    II.    3.     Cicero,    pro  among  the  inland  colonies  of  Etruria. 

Murena,  24.  *  Inghirami,  Giiida  di  Fiesole,  p.  24. 

'   Plin.   VII.    11.      Pliny   (III.   8)   and 


128 


FIESOLE. 


[chap.  xlt. 


followed  soon  after.  Then  after  a  hrief  interval  another  inde- 
fatigable labonrer  in  this  iield  "was  taken,  Emil  Brann,  to  whose 
meniorv  I  would  pay  a  heartfelt  tribute  of  respect ;  and  again, 
most  recently,  in  this  summer  of  1877,  we  have  had  to  deplore 
the  loss  of  the  Count  Giancarlo  Conestabile,  a  most  able  disciple 
of  Vermiglioli,  who  devoted  his  life  and  energies  to  the  investiga- 
tion of  the  Etruscan  language.  The  departed  have  found  worthy 
successors — Brunn,  Helbig,  Klugmann,  for  Germany;  Gozzadini, 
Gamurrini,  and  Brizio,  for  Italy.  "  The  world,"  says  the  proverb, 
"  is  like  a  i)air  of  slippers — one  man  shufHes  them  off,  another 
puts  them  on  "' — 

II  mondo  e  fatto  a  scarpette — 
Chi  se  lo  cava,  chi  se  lo  mette. 


KYLIX,    WITH    A    FURY   AND    TWO    SATYK3. 


CHAPTER    XLIL 

SIENA.— ,S£'A^.4. 

Noi  ci  traciuo  ala  citta  di  Siena 

La  quale  e  ]iosta  in  parte  forte  e  sana  ; 
De  ligiailria  e  1)ei  costunil  plena, 

Di  vaghe  donne,  e  Imomiui  cortesi, 
E  r  aer  dolce,  lucida,  e  serena. 

Faccio  degli  Uberti. 

Siena  can  urge  no  pretensions  to  be  cansidered  an  Etruscan 
i-it}',  that  are  founded  either  on  historical  records,  or  on  extant 
remains.  B}"  ancient  writers  she  is  spoken  of  onl}'  as  a  Ptoman 
colony,  and  as  there  is  no  mention  of  her  before  the  time  of 
Cffisar,  and  as  she  is  stjded  Sena  Julia  by  the  Theodosian  Table, 
the  probability  is  that  a  colon}'  was  first  established  here  by  Julius 
Caesar,  or  by  the  second  Triumvirate.^  Nor  is  tliere  a  trace  of 
Etruscan  antiquit}'  visible  on  the  site,  though  there  are  a  few 
shapeless  caves  in  the  cliffs  around. 

Siena,  therefore,  would  not  have  been  mentioned  among 
Etruscan  sites,  but  that  it  is  situated  in  a  district  which,  at 
various  periods,  has  yielded  treasures  of  that  antiquit}';  and  from 
its  position  in  the  heart  of  Tuscany,  and  on  the  railroad  from 
Florence  to  Eome,  it  may  be  made  a  convenient  central  point  for 
the  exploration  of  this  region.-  It  has  three  hotels — the  Grand 
Hotel  excellent,  the  Armi  dTnghilterra  and  the  Aquila  Nera  com- 
fortable— all-important  in  a  city  so  full  of  medifiival  interest,  whose 
glorious  Cathedral  alone  might  tempt  the  traveller  to  a  lengthened 

*  Sena  is  mentioned  as  a  colony  by  Pliny  I'.t  ;  if.  Appian.  Bell.  Civ.  I.  88.    Alickeu 

(III.    8)  ;    Tacitus    (Hist.    IV.    45)  ;    and  (AUttelitalien,  p.  33)  thinks  Sena  was  pro- 

I'tolemy  (p.  72,  ed.  Bert.).     Dempster  (II.  l>aMy  of  I'^truscan  origin,  and  a  dependency 

p.  342)  ascribes  its  origin  to  the  Senonian  of   Volaterriu  ;   but  I  sec   no  solid  gi'ound 

Gauls,  but  without  any  authority,  though  for  this  opinion. 

not  confounding  this  city,  as  others  have  -  Siena  is  40   miles  from   Florence,   K! 

done,  ^vith  Sena  (tallica,  now  Sinigaglia  on  from  I'oggibonsi,  3tj  fiom  Volterra,  3'J  from 

the  Adriatic,  which  derived  its  name  from  Arczzo,  3'J  from  JIassa  Marittima,  and  4S 

that  people — Scnonuiii  de  nomine  Sena —  from  Grosseto. 
Sib  Ital.  VIII.  455  ;  XV.  552  ;  Polyb.  II. 

VOL.    ir.  K 


130  SIEXA.  [CHAP.  XLii. 

stnv,  and  whose  inhabitants,  in  spite  of  Dante's  vituperations, 
are  all  the  stranger  could  wish  to  make  his  sojourn  agreeable. 

There  are  several  collections  of  Etruscan  antiquities  at  Siena, 
chiefly  of  cinerary  urns  from  Chiusi  and  other  ancient  sites  in 
this  disti-ict.  They  are  to  be  seen  in  the  Casa  Borghesi,  and 
Casa  Sansedoni ;  also  at  the  Villa  Poggio  Pini,  belonging  to  the 
Contessa  de'  Yecchi ;  and  at  the  Villa  Serraglio,  where  the 
proprietor,  Signor  Carlo  Taja,  has  fitted  up  a  grotto  with  them 
in  imitation  of  an  Etruscan  tomb.  Signori  Pazzini  and  Stasi  are 
the  local  dealers  in  antiquities. 

The  most  singular  collection  of  antique  roha  to  be  seen  at 
Siena,  which,  though  not  Etruscan,  dates  doubtless  from  Etruscan 
days,  is  in  the  possession  of  the  Marchese  Chigi.  About  seven 
miles  to  the  south-east  of  the  city,  between  Leonina  and  Muci- 
gliano,  is  a  farm,  called  Le  Casaccie,  belonging  to  that  nobleman. 
In  the  spring  of  1872  a  servant  girl  watching  the  sheep  on  a 
hill  slope  happened,  "  for  want  of  thought,"  to  turn  up  the  soil  at 
her  side,  when  she  perceived  at  the  depth  of  only  two  inches  a 
shining  object  which  she  disinterred,  and  which  proved  to  be  a 
massive  bracelet  of  gold,  composed  of  thick  wires  twisted  together 
like  a  torque.  Continuing  her  search  she  brought  to  light  another 
bracelet  of  smaller  size  and  simpler  workmanship.  She  carried 
them  both  to  the  farmer  her  master,  who  sold  the  large  one, 
which  weighed  1850  fjramml,  to  a  goldsmith  at  Siena,  and  the 
smaller  one,  weighing  170  (irammi,  he  broke  up  and  sold  i:)iece- 
meal ;  the  large  one  also  eventually'  finding  its  way  to  the  crucible. 
The  discovery  was  well  nigh  forgotten,  when  in  April  1875, 
another  girl  found  by  chance  on  the  same  spot  a  necklace  of  solid 
gold  weighing  331  fimmnii.  The  attention  of  the  Marchese  Chigi 
being  now  directed  to  the  discover}',  he  at  once  made  excavations 
on  the  spot,  which  brought  to  light  a  portion  of  another  necklace 
of  smaller  size  and  not  solid,  ten  gold  coins,  of  about  8  prammi 
each,  fused  and  with  no  device,  fragments  of  clay  pots  of  rude 
manufacture,  part  of  an  arrow-head  of  obsidian,  and  some  bones, 
among  them  a  portion  of  a  human  skull.  All  these  objects  were 
found  just  beneath  the  surface,  and  within  the  space  of  five  square 
metres.  Dr.  Wolfgang  Helbig,  who  saw  them  soon  after  their 
discovery,  recognised  all  the  articles  of  metal  and  pottery  as 
inidoubtedly  Gaulish.  He  thinks  the  gold  ornaments  had  been 
deposited  here  probabl}'  at  some  depth,  but  that  in  the  course  of 
ages,  by  the  action  cf  water  on  the  hill  side,  they  had  been  brought 
to  the  surface.     He  infers  that  the  Gauls  must  have  made  some 


ciiAi'.  xLii.]     GALLIC  EELICS— TOMB   OF  THE   CILNII.  131 

stay  ill  this  iieiglibourliooil,  or,  at  least  have  passed  through  it,  but 
he  does  not  attempt  to  determine  on  which  of  their  many  preda- 
tory excursions  south  of  the  Apennines  the  deposit  or  entomb- 
ment, whichever  it  were,  liad  been  made/' 

At  various  spots  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Siena,  Etruscan 
antiquities  have  at  different  periods  been  brought  to  light. 

Five  miles  to  the  east,  near  the  ruined  Castle  of  Montaperti, 
ever  memorable  for  the  great  victory  of  the  Gliibellines  in  12C0, 
Avhich  Dante  describes  as 

Lo  strizio  e  il  grande  scenipio 
Che  fece  I'Arljia  colonita  in  rosso — 

was  discovered  in  1728,  in  a  little  mound,  a  tomb  of  the  Cilnii — 
the  great  Etruscan  gom  to  wdiich  Maecenas  belonged.  It  had 
fifteen  square  urns  or  "ash-chests"  of  travertine,  and  seventeen 
cinerary  pots  of  earthenware,  almost  all  with  inscriptions ;  but 
the  urns  were  remarkably  plain,  Avithout  figures  on  their  lids, 
and  there  was  nothing  in  the  sepulchre  to  mark  it  as  belonging 
to  one  of  the  most  illustrious  families  of  Etruria,  which  once 
possessed  supreme  power  in  the  land.^     The  name  was  written 

CVENLE,  or  CVENLES — 


/AaJV\^:]) 


or  more  rarely  CvELXE  ;'^  though  the  Etruscan  form  was  some- 
times analogous  to,  or  even  identical  with  the  lloman.^  On  the 
door-posts  of  this  tomb,  as  in  the  Grotta  de'  Yolunni  at  Perugia, 
was  carved  an  inscription — a  sort  of  general  epitaph,  in  which 
the  name  of  the  fiimily  occurs. 

■'  liull.  Inst.  1875,  pp.  257-261.  always  well  acquainted  with  the  I']truscan 

*  Cilnium  gens  pnepotens. — Liv.  X.  3.  character.     But  Lanzi  (Sagg.   11.  \).  366), 

n-i   •        »       1-  FH      r,     •       J.      •        •  ■^^ho  copied  the  orijiinal  inscrivitions,   and 

Cilnius,  Arreti  TyiThcnis  ortus  in  oris,  ^     .     ,r       -n,  xr^       ^. ,      ,    -r-r 

-^1  .       Q-,   x.  ,     ^-rr  .^,1         also  Gron  (Mus.  P^trus.   III.  p.  9b,  el.  II. 

Clanim  nomen  erat. — Su.  Itai.,  \  11. -".».        ,  ,      ,->     ,\.x  ,  .    ;       , 

tab.    12—1/),    make    precisely   the    same 

For  the  royal  origin  of  Maecenas,  sec  transpositions.  Jliiller  (I.  pp.  404,  416) 
Horat.  Od.  I.  1  ;  III.  29,  1  ;  Sat.  I.  6,  thinks  that  the  Etruscan  form  of  Miecenas' 
1 — 4  ;  Propert.  III.  9,  1  ;  Sil.  Ital.  X.  40  ;  name  must  have  heen  "Cvelne  (or  as  he 
Mart.  XII.  4,  2  ;  cf.  Macrob.  Saturn.  II.  writes  it,  Cfelne)  Maecnatial,"— the  first 
4.  Etruscan  "royalty"  must  be  under-  being  his  patronymic,  the  second  his 
stood  merely  as  the  supreme  iiowcr  dele-  mother's  family  name  with  the  usual  ad- 
gated  to  one  of  their  body  by  the  con-  jectival  termination, 
federate  princes  or  Lucumones.  "  As  is  proved  by  an  inscription  on  one 

*  It  seems  at  fii^st  sight  as  if  this  metas-  of  the  rock-hewn  seijulchres  of  Sovana, 
tasis  were  an  error  of  some  of  the  copiers  where  tlie  name  is  written  "Cilnia;" 
or  transcribere,  who,  as  appears  from  a  though  the  more  peculiar  form  seems  also 
manuscript  account  of  this  tomb  in  the  to  occur  in  the  same  necroi)olis.  Vide 
Archa'ological  Institute  at  Home,  were  not  siipra,  p.  17. 

K   2 


132  SIENA.  [CHAP.  XLir. 

Etiniscan  antiquities,  however,  have  been  found  in  the  close 
vicinit}'  of  Siena.  Excavations  outside  the  Porta  (li  San  Marco, 
in  1860,  brought  to  light  eight  tombs,  containing  many  urns  of 
terra-cotta,  and  some  articles  in  gold. 

Sixteen  miles  north-west  of  Siena,  on  the  road  to  Florence,  is 
Poggibonsi,  the  Podium  Bonitii  of  the  middle  ages.  Between 
this  and  Castellina,  a  town  about  seven  or  eight  miles  to  the  east, 
Etruscan  tombs  have  been  found.  Near  the  site  of  a  ruined  city 
called  Salingolpe,  as  long  since  as  1507,  a  sepulchre  was  opened, 
which,  from  the  description  given  bv  an  eye-witness,  must  have 
been  very  like  the  Piegulini  tomb  at  Cervetri.  It  was  under 
a  mound  and  was  vaulted  over  with  micemented  masonry  of  large 
blocks,  the  courses  convergmg  till  the}'  met.  It  was  about  fortv 
feet  in  length,  six  in  breadth,  and  ten  in  height.  It  had  also  two 
side-chambers,  so  as  to  form  in  its  plan  the  figure  of  a  cross;  and 
one  of  these,  about  ten  feet  cube,  was  a  very  "  magazine"  of  urns 
and  vases,  full  of  ashes  ;  and  the  other  contained  more  valuable 
relics,  "  the  adornments  of  a  queen  " — a  mirror,  a  hair  bodkin, 
and  bracelets,  all  of  silver,  with  abundance  of  leaf  in  the  same 
metal — a  square  cinerar}'  urn,  with  a  golden  grasshopper  in  the 
middle,  and  another  in  each  of  the  corners' — sundry  precious 
stones — boxes  of  rings  in  a  covered  vase  of  bronze,  probably  one 
of  the  beautiful  caskets  in  that  metal,  rarely  found  in  Etruria, 
though  abundant  at  Praeneste,  in  Latium — a  female  bust  in 
alabaster,  with  a  gold  wii'e  crossed  on  her  bosom — and  many 
cinerary  urns  of  stone  and  marble,  the  finest  of  which  belonged 
to  a  lady.     The  long  passage  was  quite  empty.^ 

In  the  year  1723,  at  a  spot  called  La  Fattoria  di  Lilliano, 
about  half  way  between  Poggibonsi  and  Castellina,  some  Etruscan 
ui'ns  were  brought  to  light.^ 

Stdl  nearer  Siena,  on  the  road  to  Colle,  and  liard  bv  the 
Abbadia  all'  Isola,  a  most  remarkable  tomb  was  discovered  in 
the  year  1698.  It  contained  an  abundance  of  human  bones;  but 
Avhether  loose  or  in  sarcophagi  does  not  appear  from  the  record 
we  have  of  it.  It  seems  to  have  been  a  deep  square  pit  or  shaft, 
with  an  entrance  cut  obliquely  do^ni  to  its  floor.  But  the 
most  extraordinary  thing  about  it  was,  that  on  tluee  of  its  walls 

"  Tlie  golden  grasshoppers  seem  to  mark  i>lan  of  the  tomb  whicli  diflfei-s  a  little  from 

this  as  the  funeral  urn  of  some  Athenian  the  description  {riven  alx)ve.     He  says  that 

lady.     Thucydides,  I.  6.  the  urns  show  it  to  have  belonged  to  the 

*'  Santi    Marmocchini   quoted  by  Biion-  iMeminian  or  Memmian  family — in  Etnis- 

arroti,    p.   96,    E.xplic.  aJ   Dempster.   II.  can — "Memsa." 

Gori  (Mus.  Etr.  Class  II.  tab.  Ill)  gives  a  ^  IJuonarroti,  p.  41,  ap.  Dempst. 


CHAi>.  xLii.]  ALPHABETICAL  SEPULCHRE.  133 

were  inscriptions  in  large  characters,  i)ainted  on  the  rock,  not 
horizontally,  as  usual,  but  in  long  lines  from  the  top  to  the 
bottom  of  the  chamber.  Yet  more  strange — two  of  these  inscrip- 
tions had  no  reference  to  the  dead,  but  were  an  alphabet  and  a 
spelling-book  ! — like  the  curious  pot  found  at  Cervetri,  and  now 
in  the  Gregorian  ]Museum^ — nor  were  they  Etruscan,  as  would 
be  expected  from  the  locaHty,  but  might  easily  be  recognised  as 
early  Greek  or  Pelasgic  ! "  Here  is  a  fac-simile  of  a  copy  of  the 
alphabet  made  at  the  time  the  tomb  was  opened.  It  will  be  seen 
that  the  alphabet  is  not  complete;  the  letters  after  the  omicron 

^RI:DEClBO!KU^v(;^JfflO• 

having  faded  from  the  wall  before  the  tomb  was  discovered. 
The  next  line  bore  the  interesting  intelligence  "  ma,  mi,  me,  mu, 
na,  110,'"  in  letters  which  ran  from  right  to  left."^ 

Why  an  alphabet  and  hornbook  were  thus  preserved  within  a 
tomb,  I  leave  to  the  imagination  of  my  readers  to  conceive. 
Few,  however,  will  be  satisfied  with  Passeri's  explanation — that 
it  was  the  freak  of  some  Etruscan  schoolboy,  who,  finding  the 
wall  ready  prepared  for  painting,  mischievously  scribbled  thereon 
his  last  lesson.^ 

This  district  of  Etruria  has  been  rendered  much  more  accessible 
of  late  3'ears  by  the  railroads  which  connect  Siena  with  Florence 

•  Sec  Vol.  I.,  page  271.  Grotta  <lef;li  Scmli  at  Corneto,  and  iu  the 

-  So  says  Lepsius  (Ann.  Inst.  1836,  p.  Grotta  de'  Volunni  at  Perugia. 

195,  et  seq.).     Lanzi  (II.  p.  513)  called  it  "*  Passeri,    ap.    Gori,    Mus.   Etrus.   III. 

a  niixture  of  Eti'iiscau  and  Latin.     Lep.siu.s  p.  108.     Nor  can  it  be  supposed  that  this 

seems  to  siieak  of  this  tomb  as  if  it  were  Etruscan   tomb    presents  an    instance   of 

still  in  existence,  though  it  is  now  mere  academical  tuition,  lilce  an  Egyptian  one  at 

matter  of  history.      It  was  reclosed  and  its  lieni  Hassan,  described  by  Sir  G.  ^Vilkinson, 

site  forgotten  even  iu  ^Matfei's  day,   more  — "On  the  wall  of  one  of  the  tombs  is  a 

than  a  century  since.  Greek  alphabet,  with  the  letters  transposed 

^  Buonan'oti,  p.  3(5,  tab.  92,  ap.  Dempst.  in    various    ways,    evidently   by   a  i)ei'son 

II.;   Lanzi  II.    !>.    512;    Mafiei,    Osserv.  teaching  Greek,  who  appears  to  have  found 

Lett.  Y.  p.  322.    The  three  inscribed  walls  these  cool  recesses  as  well   suited  for  the 

of  the  tomb  wei-e  divided  by  vertical  lines  resort  of  himself  and  pupils,  as  was  any 

into  broad  stripes  or  bauds,  in  which  were  stoa,  or  the  grove  of  Acaderaus."    Modern 

the  inscriptions — seven  in  all.    Though  each  Egj'pt,   II.  p.  53.     There  is  no  reason  to 

commenced  at  the  top  of  the  wall,  the  letters  believe  that  this  Etruscan  tomb  was  used 

were  not  placed  upright,  as  in  Chinese  in-  for  another  than  its  original  puqjose,  by 

scriptions,  but  ran  sometimes  from  left  to  a  different  race,  and  iu  a  subsequent  age  ; 

right,  as  in  the  above  aljjhabet,  sometimes  for  the  paheography  shows  the  inscriptions 

vice  1-er.vl.      Etruscan  inscriptions,    verti-  to  be  very  ancient,  in  all  probability  coeval 

cally  arranged,  but  running  from  right  to  wilh  the  sepulchre  itself, 
left,  as  usual,   are  still  to  be  seen  in  the 


134  SIEXA.  [chap.  xlii. 

and  risfi  on  the  one  hand,  and  Avith  Chiusi  and  the  Yal  di  Chiana 
on  the  other,  and  hitterl}'  with  Grosseto  and  the  Maremma.  On 
this  last  line,  which  hranches  from  the  main  trunk  to  Chiusi  and 
Eome  at  Asciano,  are  several  sites  recognised  as  Etruscan.  At 
a  spot  called  il  Borgo,  near  Torrenieri,  between  ]\Iontalcino  and 
Pienza,  excavations  in  1859  disclosed  mam'  tombs,  containing 
urns  and  vases. 

Near  Pienza,  a  town  on  the  heights  to  the  east  of  San  Quii'ico 
and  seven  miles  west  of  Montepulciano,  was  found  in  1779  a 
tomb  of  the  family  of  "  Caes,"  or  Caius.' 

An  English  gentleman  named  Newton,  who  owns  much  land  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  Pienza,  has  made  extensive  excavations  on 
his  property,  and  has  discovered  an  abundance  of  the  early  black 
ware  {bucchero)  with  some  good  bronzes,  but  very  few  painted 
vases.  They  are  preserved  in  his  house  at  Pienza.  There  is 
another  collection  in  the  house  of  Signor  Santi  at  the  same 
place — the  produce  of  the  same  necropolis. 

At  Montalcino,  a  small  city  on  the  heights  to  the  right  of  the 
road  from  Siena  to  S.  Quirico,  and  about  twenty  miles  south  of 
the  former  city,  Etruscan  tombs  have  been  opened  in  times  x^ast, 
though  no  excavations  have  been  made,  so  far  as  I  can  learn,  for 
many  years.  A  great  part  of  the  Etruscan  urns  in  the  Museum 
of  Leyden  came  from  this  site.  They  are  all  of  travertme,  and 
belong  to  difierent  Etruscan  families.^ 

Montalcino  has  now  no  antiquities  to  show,  and,  indeed,  little 
more  to  boast  of  than  her  muscadel  wine,  lauded  b}-  Picdi  as 
drink  for  the  fair  of  Paris  and  London — 

II  leggiadretto, 

II  si  diviuo 

Moscadelletto 

Di  Montalcino. 

Uu  tal  vino 

Lo  destino 
Per  le  dame  di  Parigi ; 

E  per  quelle, 

Che  si  belle 
Rallegrar  fanno  il  Tamigi. 

Castehiuovo    dell'    Abate,    seven     miles     further     south,    is 

^  Lanzi,  II.  p.  373.     Pienza  is  conjee-  "Apnni"  (Aponius),  "Tito"  or  "Teti" 

tured  by  Cramer  (I.   p.  2"21)  to   be   the  (Titus>,  "  Cae  "  (Caius),  "Ancami"(An- 

Jlanliana  of  Ptolemy  and  the  Itineraries.  charius),  "  Laucani "  (Lucanus),  and  others 

®  Jiull.  Inst.  1840,  pp.  97 — 104.     Tlie  wliose  names  are  not  fully  legible, 
families  mentioned  in  the  epitaphs  are  the 


CHAP.  xLii.]  PIENZA— MONTALCIXO.  136 

aiiutlier   site   which    lias    yiehled    Etruscan   tombs    in    the    past 
■century." 

In  the  district  of  Siena  have  been  found  other  sepulchres  in 
the  olden  time ;  one  of  the  family  of  *'  Lecne  "  (Licinius),  and 
another  of  that  of  "  Veti  "  (Vettius).  But  the  precise  localities 
of  these  tombs  are  not  recorded.^ 

'  Lanzi,  Saggio  II.  p.  36S.     One  was  o£  •''  Lanzi,  II.  pp.  060,  361. 

the  family  of  the  "  Arutlc. " 


ETRCSCAX    WALLS    OF    VOLTERRA,    BELuW    SAJJTA    CHIAllA. 


CHAPTER    XLIIL 

TOLTER'R.\.-rELATIIItI,  or  YOLATEBRJE:. 

The  City. 

— appresso  trovammo  Viiltera, 
Sopra  un  gran  monte,  che  forte  e  anticba, 
Quanto  en  Thoscana  sia  alcuna  terra. — Faccio  delgi  Uberti. 

We  came  e'en  to  the  city's  wall 
And  the  great  gate. — Shelley. 

YoLTEEEA  lies  ill  the  mountainous  region  between  the  coast 
railway,  and  that  which  connects  Florence  with  Siena,  a  region 
rich  in  mineral  and  agTicultural  wealth  rather  than  m  classical 
antiquities,  and  consequently  little  visited  by  tomists,  as  it  is  not 
traversed  by  any  dii'ect  line  of  raih'oad.  A'olterra,  however,  has 
a  little  railway  of  its  own,  which  branches  from  the  coast  hne 
at  Cecina,  and  rmis  up  the  valley  of  that  name  as  far  as  Le 
Sahue,  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  on  wliich  the  city  stands,  and 
about  five  miles  from  the  gates. ^     Yolterra  may  also  be  reached 


^  In  bad  weather  this  line  is  apt  to  get 
out  of  order,  and  no  intelligence  of  its 
heing  closed  is  to  be  obtained  before 
reaching  Cecina.  Thus  the  traveller  may 
make  the  long  detour  from  Florence  to  that 
station,  and  then  find  that  he  has  as  long  a 


carriage  journey  before  him  as  he  woidJ 
have  had  from  Poggibonsi,  with  \^Tetched 
roads,  and  very  inferior  conveyances.  It 
took  me,  under  such  circumstances,  more 
than  seven  houi-s  to  reach  Yolterra  from 
Cecina  by  the  malle-poste. 


CHAP.  XMii.]  POSITION   OF   VOLTEREA.  137 

from  the  I'ontedt'ra  station,  on  the  Pisa  and  Florence  line, 
•whence  thcic  are  puhlic  conveyances  which  do  the  jonrnoy  in 
six  hours  ;  or  better  and  more  speedily  from  Poggil)onsi,  on 
tlie  lin.'  from  Empoli  to  Siena,  where  carriages  are  always  to 
be  hired. 

From  whatever  side  A'olterra  may  be  approached  it  is  a  most 
commanding  object,  crowning  the  summit  of  a  lofty,  steep,  and 
sternly  naked  height,  not  wholly  isolated,  yet  independent  of  the 
neighbom-ing  hills,  reducing  them  by  its  towering  supereminence 
to  mere  satellites  ;  so  lofty  as  to  be  conspicuous  from  many  a 
league  distant,  and  so  steep  that  when  the  traveller  has  at  length 
reached  its  foot,  he  finds  that  the  fiitigue  he  imagined  had  well 
nigh  terminated,  is  then  but  about  to  begin.  Strabo  has  accu- 
rately described  it  when  he  said  "it  is  built  on  a  lofty  height, 
rising  from  a  deep  valley  and  precipitous  on  every  side,  on  whose 
level  summit  stand  the  fortifications  of  the  city.  From  base  to 
summit  the  ascent  is  fifteen  stadin  long,  and  it  is  steep  and 
difficult  throughout."^ 

As  the  road  ascends  tlie  long-drawn  slope  beneath  Volterra  it 
passes  through  a  singularly  wild  and  barren  tract,  broken  into 
hillocks  of  black  clay  or  marl,  without  a  blade  of  grass  on  their 
surfiice,  as  if  it  had  been  ravaged  by  a  recent  flood,  yet  so 
existing  for  ages,  perhaps  from  pre-historic  times. 

If  Volterra  be  still  "lordly"  and  imposing,  what  must  she 
have  been  in  the  olden  time,  when  instead  of  a  mere  cluster  of 
mean  buildings  at  one  corner  of  the  level  mountain-crest,  the 
entire  area,  four  or  five  miles  in  circuit,  was  bristling  with  the 
towers,  temples,  and  palaces  of  the  city,  one  of  Etruria's  noblest 

-  Stral)o,    V.   p.    ^-lo.      The    15    xtddiir  of     Oinarea,  —  a     site     of     extraonlinary 

must    be    tlic    lengtli    of  a    Roman    road  strength,  on  a  lull  30  stadia  in  lieiglit.     To 

running  in  a  straight  line  up  the  hill,     JJy  tliis  view  Lanzi  (Saggio,  11.  p.   94)  is  also 

the  modern  winding  road  the  distance  is  inclined.     Mannert  (Gcog.p.  357)isopposed 

fully  5  miles.     I\Iodern  measurement  makes  to    it,    on    the   ground   that   CEnarea    had 

the  mountain   on   wliich   Volterra   stands  jirobably   no    existence.       Mebuhr    (I.    p. 

about  1900  English  feet  above  the  level  of  124,  n.   382),  Miiller  (Etrusk.  II.  2,  10), 

the  sea.     Miiller  was  therefore  mistaken  and  Arnold   (Hi.st.  of  Rome,  II.  p.   ."^.30), 

when  he  guessed  Volterra  to  be  probably  raise  the  more  valid  objection,  that  from 

the  highest-lying  town  in  all  Italy.    Etrusk.  the  usurpation  of  power  by  its  manumitted 

I.    p.    221.     There   are   many   towns   and  slaves,    CEnarea   must     be    identical   with 

villages  amoiig  the  Apennines,  and  not  a  Volsinii.     I  have  hesitated  to  bow  to  these 

few  ancient  sites  in  the  mountains  of  Sabina  mighty    three,    and     have     ventured     to 

and  Latium,  at  a  considerably  greater  ele-  suggest  that  ]\Ionte  Fiascone  may  possibly 

vation.     Cluver   (Ital.    Ant.    II.    p.    513)  be  the  site  of  CEnarea  (nWe  wp-a,  p.  32), 

takes   Volaterrie   to  be   the    Etruscan  city  if  it  be    not    rather   that   of   the    Fanum 

referred    to   by   the   pseudo-Aristotle    (De  Voltuiun:i?. 
Mirab.   Auscult.  caji.   in;),  under  the  name 


1:58  YOLTEEEA.— The  City.  [chap,  xliii. 

and  largest — when  the  "walls,  avIiosc  mere  fragments  are  now  so 
vast,  that  fable  and  song  may  well  report  them 

••  Piled  1)3'  the  hands  of  giants, 
For  god-like  kings  of  old," 

then  snrroundt'd  the  city  with  a  girdle  of  fortifications  such  as 
for  grandeur  and  massiveness  have  perhaps  never  been  surpassed. 
AVe  now  see  but  "  the  skeleton  of  her  Titanic  form," — what 
must  have  been  the  living  body  ? 

Her  great  size  and  the  natural  strength  of  her  position  mark 
YolaterrEe  as  a  city  of  first-rate  imiiortance,  and  give  her  indis- 
putable claims  to  rank  among  the  Twelve  of  the  Confederation. 
Were  such  local  evidence  wanting,  the  testimony  of  Dionysius,'' 
that  she  was  one  of  the  five  cities,  which,  acting  independently  of 
the  rest  of  Etruria,  determined  to  aid  the  Latins  against  Tar- 
(juinius  Priscus,  would  be  conclusive ;  '^  for  no  second-rate  or 
dependent  town  could  have  ventured  to  oppose  the  views  of  the 
rest.  This  is  the  first  historical  mention  of  Yolaterrfe,  and  is 
satisf actor}'  evidence  as  to  her  antiquitv  and  early  importance. 
The  only  other  express  record  of  A^olaterrje  during  the  period  of 
national  independence,  is  in  the  year  45G  (b.c.  298),  when  L. 
Cornelius  Scipio  encountered  the  Etruscan  forces  below  this 
city,  and  so  obstinate  a  combat  ensued  that  night  alone  put  an 
end  to  it,  and  not  till  daylight  showed  that  the  Etruscans  had 
retired  from  the  field,  could  the  Roman  general  claim  the 
victory.'  As  an  Etruscan  city,  YolaterriB  must  have  had  a 
territor}--  of  great  extent ;  larger,  Avithout  doubt,  than  that  of  any 
other  cit}'  of  the  Confederation  •/'  and  with  the  possession  of  the 
two  great  ports  of  Luna  and  Populonia,  she  must  have  been  the 
most  powerful  among  "the  sea-ruling  Etruscans,"  and  probably 

•'  Dion.  Hal.  III.  C.  51.     The  other  cities  lians,    who    iiosses.scil    the   sea-coast   from 

were    Clusium,    Anetium,    lluselhe,    aud  Massilia  quite  down  to  Pisa>,  and  the  iilains 

Vetulonia.  iidand  even  up  to  the  confines  of  Arretium. 

•*  It    is    so    regarded    by    tljc    principal  Tolyb.    II.,    16.      Eastward    the    ayer   of 

writers   on   the   subject.     Cluvcr.    II.    p.  Volaterrre  must  also  have  extended  far,  as 

.^(11  ;  Miiller,    Etrusk.    II.    1,    2,  p.    ol(i  ;  the  nearest  city   was  Arretium,   50   miles 

Cramer,  I.  p.  185.  distant  ;  westward  it  was  boumled  by  the 

*  Liv.  X.  12.  Jlediterraneau   (Strabo,   V.   p.    223),  more 

•>  North  of  Volatcrrte  there  was  no  other  than  20  miles  off  ;  and  southward  it  ex- 
city  of  the  Confederation,  unless  Tisa'  may  tended  at  least  as  far  as  Populonia,  which 
at  an  early  period  have  been  one  of  the  was  either  a  colony  or  acquisition  of  Vola- 
Twelve,    to  dispute  her  claiiu    to  all    the  terra;  (Serv.   ad   .iEn.  X.    172);  and  f 


roni 


and  up  to  the  confines  of  Etruria,  including  the  intimate  connection  of  that  port  with 

the  vale  of  the  Arno,  and  the  rich  plains  (jf  Elba,  it  is  hi^^ddy  probable  that  it  compre- 

Lucca.     Yet  much  of  this  northern  region  bended  that  island  also. 
was  at  one  time  in  the  hands  of  the  Ligu- 


CHAi>.  xLiii.J  HISTORY  OF  YOLATEEEiE.  139 

iilso  tlie  most  ■\vealtliy.     Her  Etruscan  appellation,  as  Ave  learn 
i'roiii  lier  coins,  Avas  A'jxathui" — 


NO^^^^ 


AVe  have  no  record  of  lier  conquest,  but  from  lier  remoteness 
and  strength  we  may  conclude  Volaterrte  was  among  the  last  of 
Ihe  cities  of  Etruria  to  fall  under  the  j'oke  of  Eome.  In  the 
Second  Punic  War,  in  common  with  the  other  principal  cities  of 
Etruria,  she  undertook  to  furnish  her  quota  of  supplies  for  the 
Roman  fleet ;  and  it  is  worthy  of  remark  that  she  still  maintained 
her  maritime  character,  being  the  only  one,  save  Tarquinii,  to 
furnish  tackling  or  other  gear  for  ships.^  In  tlie  civil  wars 
between  Marius  and  Sylla,  Yolaterrte,  like  most  of  the  cities  of 
Etruria,  espoused  the  part  of  the  former ;  for  which  she  was 
besieged  two  A-ears  by  the  forces  of  his  rival,  till  she  was 
compelled  to  surrender;^  but  though  thus  taken  in  arms  against 
liim,  she  escaped  the  fate  of  Fiesuhie  and  other  cities  which  were 
deprived  of  their  citizenship,  and  had  their  lands  confiscated  and 
divided  among  the  troops  of  the  victorious  Dictator.  For  this 
she  was  indebted  to  the  great  Cicero,  who  was  then  Consul,  and 
who  ever  afterwards  retained  the  warmest  attachment  towards 
her,  and  honoured  her  with  the  higliest  commendations.^     Sub- 

"  This  is  almost  identical  with  the  name  settle  in  the  land  of  the  Umhri.     The  same 

of  the  ancient  Yolsciau  town  Velitne,  now  origin  for  the  city  is  inferred  by  Millingen 

Velletri  ;  and  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  (Numismatique    de   I'Ancienne   Italie,    p. 

there  was  a    close    analogy,    as   between  167)  from  the  name  Velathri,   which  he 

certain  other  towns  of  Etruria,  and  those  takes  to  be  identical  with  Elatria,  a  to-wn 

of  corresponding  appellations  south  of  the  in  Epinis,  the  land  whence  came  many  of 

Tiber.     In  fact,  the  coins  with  the  legend  the  colonists  of  Italy,  especially  the  Pelasgi, 

of  Velathri  have  often    been   assigned    to  and  he  thinks  this  name  was  given  to  this 

Velitne.     Certain  early  Italian  antiquaries  city  by  the  Tyrrhene-Pelasgi  in  remembrance 

indulged    in  idle    speculations   as   to    the  of  their  ancient  country, 
meaning  of  the  name  Volatornu',  but  this  ^  Liv.  XXYIII.  45.     Tarquinii  stipplied 

is  merely  tiie  Latin  form,  and  in  our  present  sail-cloth,  Volaterraj  the  fittings-up  of  ships, 

ignorance    of   the    Etruscan   language,    all  and  also  corn.     This  is  according  to  the 

sound  analysis  is  out  of  tlie  question.     It  usual  reading,    interamcnta  ;    but  Miiller 

may  be  remarked,  however,  that  the  .syl-  (I.  2,  1;  17.3,  6)  prefers  that  of  Gronovius, 

lable  Vkl,  or  Vui.,  is  a  freipient  initial  to  which  is  Inceramtnta. 
Etruscan  i)roper  names — Velsina,  Vulsinii,  '•'  Strabo,     loc.      cit.  ;     Liv.     Epitome, 

Vulci,  Vclimnas,  «&c. — and  the  rest  of  the  LXXXIX.  ;    cf.    Cic.    pro    Ciscina,    VII.  ; 

word  Atki  seems  to  have  some  analogy  to  pro  Roscio  Amerino,  VII. 
the  H.\T,  or  H.\tri,  on  the  coins  of  Hatria,  *  Cic.  pro  Domo  sud,  XXX.  ;  ad  Divers. 

— the  Etruscan  town  which  gave  its  name  XIII.    4,   5  ;    ad   Attic.    I.    19.     Voltcrra 

to    the   Adriatic,    and   to   the   atrium,   or  claims   among    lier    ancient    citizens,    the 

court,   in  lloman  houses.     Cramer  (I.    p.  satirist  Persius.    Her  claim  is  better  founded. 

184)  infers  from  this  analogy  that  Voltcrra  I  believe,   to  Linus,  the  successor   of   St. 

was  founded  by  the  Tyrrhene-Pelasgi,  when  Peter,  as  bishop  of  Rome, 
they  quitted  the  shores  of  the  Adriatic  to 


140  YOLTEEEA.— TuE  Cixv.  [chap,  xi.iik 

sequently,  however,  under  the  Triumvirate,  she  was  forced  to 
receive  a  iiiilitarv  colony."  After  the  fall  of  the  "Western  Empire, 
she  suffered  the  fate  of  the  neighbouring  cities,  and  fell  under 
the  dominion  of  the  Vandals  and  the  Huns ;  but  was  again 
raised  to  importance  by  the  Lombard  kings,  who,  for  a  time, 
fixed  their  court  here,  on  account  of  the  natural  strength  of  the 
site.  Of  the  subsequent  histor}-  of  Yolterra,  suffice  it  to  sa)% 
that  thougli  greatly  sunk  in  size  and  importance,  she  has  never 
lost  her  population,  and  been  abandoned,  like  so  many  of  her 
fellows,  to  the  fox,  the  owl,  and  the  viper  ;  and  that  she  retains 
to  the  present  da}',  the  circuit  of  her  original  fortifications  almost 
entire,  and  her  Etruscan  ai^pellation  but  little  corrupted,' 

When  the  traveller  has  mastered  the  tedious  ascent  to  the 
town,  let  him  seek  for  the  "  Unione,"  the  best  inn  in  Yolterra, 
kept  b}'  Nicolo  Frassinesi,  the  successor  to  Ottavio  Callai,  who 
for  many  years  welcomed  travellers  to  Yolterra.  By  some,  how- 
ever, the  "  Locanda  Xazionale,"  kept  by  Giusepx^e  Grandi,  is 
pronounced  the  more  comfortable  hostelry. 

]\Iodern  Yolterra  is,  but  a  countrv-town,  having  scarcel}'  five 
thousand  inhabitants,  and  covering  but  a  small  portion  of  the 
area  occupied  by  the  ancient  cit}-.  The  lines  of  its  battlemented. 
wall,  and  the  towered  keep  of  its  fortress,  give  it  an  imposing 
appearance  externally.  It  is  a  dirty  and  gloomy  place,  however, 
without  architectural  beaut}' ;  and  save  the  heavy,  feudal-faced 
Palazzo  Pubblico,  hung  quaintly  all  over  with  coats  of  arms,  as 
a  pilgrim  with  scallop-shells — so  many  silent  traditions  of  the 
stirring  days  of  the  Italian  republics — and  richer  still  in  its 
Museum  of  Etruscan  antiquities  ;  save  the  neat  little  Duomo 
and  the  alabaster  factories,  which  every  one  should  visit,  there  is 
nothing  of  interest  in  modern  Yolterra.  Her  glories  are  the 
Etruscan  walls  and  the  Museinn,  to  neither  of  which  the  visitor 
who  feels  interest  in  the  early  civilization  of  Italy,  should  fail  to 
pay  attention. 

To  begin  with  the  walls.  From  the  "  Unione,"  a  few  steps 
will  lead  to  the 

Porta  all'  Ar.co. 

I  envy  the  stranger  his  first  impressions  on  approaching  this 
gateway.     The  loftiness  of  the  arch  ;  the  boldness  of  its  span  ; 

-  Front,  de  Colon,  p.  14,  ed.  1588.  Pliny       days. 
(N.   H.   III.    8)  and  Ptolemy  (i).   72,    ed.  ^  For  the  post- Roman  history  of  Yolterra, 

Bert.)  also  speak  of  her  as  a  colony  in  their       see  Repetti,  V.  jip.  801  et  seq. 


rORTA    ALL'    AIU'O,    VOLTICKKA. 


fivm  (I  ll,„t„ii,;i,,li 


CHAP.  XLIH.]  POETA   ALL'   AECO.  143 

tlio  luiissivencss  of  tlic  blocks,  dwarfing  into  inslgnificaiice  the 
mediicval  masonry  by  which  it  is  surrounded  ;  tlie  venerable,  yet 
solid  air  of  the  whole  ;  and  more  than  all,  the  dark,  featureless, 
mysterious  heads  around  it,  stretching  forward  as  if  eager  to 
proclaim  the  tale  of  bygone  races  and  events ;  even  its  site  on  the 
ver}'  verge  of  the  steep,  with  a  glorious  map  of  valle}',  river,  plain, 
mountain,  sea,  headland,  and  island,  unrolled  beneath  ;  make 
it  one  of  the  nu)st  imposing  yet  singular  portals  conceivable, 
and  fix  it  indelibly  on  his  memory. 

It  is  a  double  gateway,  nearly  thirty  feet  deep,  united  by 
parallel  walls  of  very  massive  character,  of  the  same  masonrj^  as 
those  of  the  city.'^  This  is  decisive  of  its  Etruscan  origin  ;  3'et 
some  doubt  has  been  raised  as  to  the  Etruscan  antiquity  of  the 
arch, — I  think,  without  just  ground.  It  has  been  objected  that 
the  mouldings  of  the  imposts  are  too  Greek  in  character  to  be 
regarded  as  Etruscan,  and  that  the  arch  must  therefore  be  re- 
ferred to  tlie  Piomans."  But  if  this  be  a  sufficing  reason,  every 
article  found  in  Etruscan  tombs,  which  betrays  a  Hellenic  influ- 
ence, must  be  of  lioman  origin.  Those  who  hold  such  a  doctrine 
must  totally  forget  the  extensive  intercourse  the  Etruscans  main- 
tained from  very  remote  times,  at  least  as  early  as  the  Ptoman 
kings,  not  ordy  with  the  Greek  colonies  of  Sicily  and  Campania, 
the  latter  long  under  their  own  dominion,  but  also  with  Greece 
herself — an  intercourse  which  introduced  many  Hellenisms  into 
Etruscan  art,  whether  exhibited  in  architectural  mouldings,  or 
in  the  modified  Doric  and  Ionic  features  of  the  sarcophagi  or 
rock-hewn  monuments,  or  displayed  in  the  sculptiu'ed  urns,  in 
the    bronze   mirrors,  or   in    the    figures    depicted    on    the    walls 

•*  Tlio  span  of  tlie  arcli  is  13  ft.  2  in.  ;  nart  of  the  gate  to  I)e   "of  true  Etruscan 

the  height  to  tlie  top  of  the  impost  15  feet ;  construction"   (of.   I.   jj.  1:11).     Uy  Iluspi, 

so  that  the  height  to  the  kej'stone  is  about  the   Roman  architect,    the  restoration  has 

2lh  feet.     Depth  of  the  dooiijosts  4  ft.  6  been   refen-ed   to  Imperial   times.      Bull, 

in.     The  inner  arch  is  13  ft.  6  in.  in  span,  Inst.  1831,  j).   ,'52.     The  connecting  walls, 

and  its  doorpost  nearly  5  ft.  in  depth.   The  the  doorpo.sts  of  the  outer  arch,  and  tlie 

length  of  the  connecting  passage  is  18  ft.,  heads,  he  alone  allows  to  be  Etruscan  ;  the 

and  its  width  15  ft.  8  in.,  so  that  the  total  ai'cli  of  the  outer  gate  he  conceives  to  have 

depth  of  the  gateway,  including  the  arches,  been  raised  during  the  Empire,  the  heads  to 

is  27  feet,    6   inches.     Tlie   arch  has  19  have  been  then  replaced,   and  the   inner 

voussoir.s,  including  the  rude  heads,  each  gateway  to  have  been  at  the  same  time 

vonssoir  being  not  more  than  27  inches  in  constructed.     He  thinks  a  .second  restora- 

deptli.  tion  was  effected  during  the  middle  ages, 

*  Mieali    (Ant.     Pop.     Ital.    III.    ]>.    5)  in  tliat  part  where  the  portcullis  was  fi.xed. 

regards  them  as  of  Roman  construction,  and  Canina,  a  higher  autlioritj'  in  architectural 

thinks  tlie  whole  arch,  except  the  heads,  a  matters,    regards   this  gate  as  one  of  the 

restoration,  prcbably  after  the  siege  of  the  mo.st  ancient  Etru.scan   monuments  in  this 

city  by  Sylla.     Yet  he  admits  the  lower  region.     Ann.  Inst.  1S35,  p.  192. 


H4  YOLTEREA.— The  City.  [chap,  xliii. 

of  sepulchres  ;  to  say  nothing  of  tlie  imiuted  \ases,  found  in 
myriads  in  Etruria,  -which  are  unequivocally  Greek  in  form, 
design,  myths,  and  inscriptions.'*  Tlie  inouldings  of  these  im- 
posts then,  in  spite  of  their  assimilation  to  the  Greek,  may  well 
be  of  Etruscan  construction,  though  not  of  the  most  remote 
epoch,  yet  probably  prior  to  the  domination  of  Home. 

The  inner  arch  of  the  gateway  differs  from  the  outer  in  the 
material,  form,  si/e,  and  number  of  its  vonssoirs,  and  lias  mucli 
more  of  a  Roman  character. 

"Whether  this  archway  be  Etruscan  or  not,  it  cannot  be  doubted 
that  the  three  heads  are  of  that  character,  and  that  they  occupied 
similar  positions  in  an  arched  gateway  of  ancient  Yolterra.  This 
is  corroborated  in  a  singular  manner.  In  the  ]\Iuseum  is  a 
cinerary  urn,  found  in  this  necropolis,  which  has  a  bas-relief  of 
the  death  of  Capaneus,  struck  by  lightning  when  in  the  act  of 
scahng  the  gate  of  Thebes  ;  and  the  artist,  copying  probabh'  the 
object  best  laio^m  to  him,  has  represented  in  that  mythical  gate, 
this  very  Porta  all'  Arco  of  A'olterra,  with  the  three  heads 
exactly  in  the  same  relative  position."  AVhat  the  heads  might 
mean  is  not  easy  to  determine.  They  may  represent  the  heads 
of  conquered  enemies,^  or  the  three  mysterious  Cabiri,''  or  possibly 
the  patron  deities  of  the  city.^  They  could  scarcely  have  been 
introduced  as  mere  ornaments. 

The  masonry  within  the  gateway  is  very  massive,  and  well 
preserved.  There  are  eight  courses,  about  two  feet  deep  each, 
of  rectangular  blocks,  seven,  eight,  or  ten  feet  in  length.  They 
are  of  pancliina,  a  yellow  conchiliferous  sandstone,  as  are  also 
the  door-posts  of  the  outer  arch ;  the  imposts  and  voussoirs, 
however,   are    of  travertine,   and  the   three    heads    are    oi^    dark 


^  Orioli   (ap.   Inghir.   Jlon.    Etrnsc.   IV.  p.  93. 
p.    162)  maintains  tliat  this  similarity  to  "^  Orioli,    ap.    Ingb.    ^Lui.    Etr.    IV.    ]). 

Greek  art  does  not   militate  against  the  163. 

Etruscan  construction  of  this  arch,  on  t'.ie  ^  This   is   Gerhard's   view.     Gottheiten 

gi'ound  that  Greek  art  arose  and  was  nur-  der  Etnisker,  p.  13  ;  of.  p.  48. 
tured  in  Asia  Elinor  rather  than  in  Greece  '  Orioli,  Ann.  Inst.   1832,  p.   38.     This 

Projier,    and    that    the    Etruscans    coming  is  also  I\Iic.di's    opinion    (III.   p.    .">),  who 

from  the  East  may  have  brought  with  them  admits  them  to  he  Etruscan.      Gori  (Mus. 

a  knowledge  of  that  architecture  which  is  Etru.sc.  III.  p.  46)  takes  them  for  heads  of 

now  characterised  as  Greek.     ]]ut  it  is  not  the  Lares  Viales,  placed  in  such  a  position 

necessary  to  suj^pose  so  high  an  anti(iuity  to  receive  the  adoration  of  passers-by  ;  as 

for  the  Hellenisms  in  Etruscan  art,  which  Lucretius    (I.    317-9)   descrii)es  deities   in 

are    more    simply   accounted    for    in    the  bronze  jdaced  near  city-gates,  whose  hands, 

manner  indicated  in  the  text.  like  the  toes  of  St.  Peter  and  other  saints 

'   A  similar  urn  from  Volterra  is  now  in  of  modern  times,  were  quite  worn  down  by 

the  Etruscan  Museum  of  Florence,  ut  supra,  the  frequent  ki.sscs  of  their  votaries. 


PLAN    OF   VOLTERRA.,  ANCIENT   AND   MODERN. 


iTo/aupagelU,  Vol.  U. 


n.  Vtakuv- 

cleut 
_  within  t 

''ofthuiln. 


A<iaiiUdp-o.i\  St 

-  i.       1       .1      IS    SnnOiuBto 

31.  Porhi  <li  San  PcUco.      3) 

8  ainvanii!. 

S5.  Campo  Santo. 

S.  Agostijio. 

35.  Pliwai  Maugiore.            ^^ 

Looiudft  "  Unioiic. 

iIm,                               motitliB  of  Cloncfw. 

ce^ca 

37.  CuthedHiL                    1  — 

-  Modem  wnlla. 

CHAP.  xLiii.]  PORTA  AI.L'   AECO.  H.> 

grey  in'penno.  This  ditierence  in  the  material  lias,  doubtless, 
favoured  the  opinion  of  the  subsequent  formation  of  the  arcli.^ 
It  is  highly  probable,  mdeed,  that  the  arches  are  subsequent 
to  the  rest  of  the  gateway,  which  I  take  to  be  coeval  with 
the  city -walls,  and  prior  to  the  inventicui  of  the  arch ;  and  the 
same  plan  must  originally  have  been  adopted,  as  is  traceable 
in  anotlier  gateway  at  Volterra, — horizontal  lintels  of  wood  or 
stone  were  let  into  the  door-posts,  having  sockets  in  them  cor- 
responding to  sockets  in  the  threshold,  in  which  the  flaps  of  the 
doors  worked.  This  plan  is  proved  to  have  been  used  by  the 
Etruscans,  by  certain  tombs  of  Chiusi,  where  the  doors  are  still 
working  in  their  ancient  sockets.  But  as  the  Etruscans  were 
acquainted  with  the  arch  for  some  three  centuries  before  their 
final  subjugation  by  Tvome,  the  addition  of  it  to  this  gateway  may 
well  liavt'  been  made  in  the  days  of  their  independence. 

Just  within  the  gate  on  each  side  is  a  groove  or  channel  for 
the  portcullis,  or  Saracinesca,  as  the  Italians  call  it,  which  was 
suspended  by  iron  chains,  and  let  down  from  above  like  the  gate 
of  a  sluice  ;  so  that  if  the  enemy  succeeded  in  forcing  the  outer 
gate,  and  attempted  to  force  the  inner,  the  portcullis  was  dropped, 
and  all  within  were  made  prisoners.  T'his  man-trap,  common 
enough  in  the  middle  ages,  was  also  employed  by  the  ancients  ; 
and  grooves  for  the  cataracta  are  found  in  the  double  gates  of 
their  cities — at  Pompeii  and  Cosa,  for  instance,  where  the  gates 
are  formed  on  the  same  plan  as  this  of  Yolterra,'' 

From  the  Porta  all'  Arco  let  the  A-isitor  continue  his  walk  to 
the  north-west,  beneath  the  walls  of  the  modern  town,  till, 
leaving  these  behind,  and  following  the  brow  of  the  hill  for  some 
distance,  he  comes  in  sight  of  the  church  of  Sta.  Chiara.  Below 
this  are  some  of  the  finest  portions  of  the  ancient  walls  now 
<>xtant.      Thev    are    in    detached    fragments.      In   the    ilrst   the 

^  If  the  .outer  arch  were  a  restoration  by  figure  or  head  in  relief  on  the  keystone  was 

the  Romans,  they  must  have  preserved  and  common  enough  in   Roman  gateways,  and 

Imilt  up  again  these  three  heads  of  ^w^jf  )•//(«;  is  in  accordance  with  good  taste,  not  de- 

which    is   a   great    objection    against   tlic  stroying  the  symmetry  of   the   arch,    but 

liypothesis.     To  me  it  does  not  seem  at  all  serving  to  fix  the  eye  on  the  culminating 

probable  that  the  Romans  of  the  close  of  point.     But  it  may  safely  be  asserted  that 

the  Republic,  tlie  epoch  of  the  Pantheon,  the  introduction  of  such  prominent  shape- 

and  the  purest  jjeriod  of  Roman  art,  would  less  masses  around  an    arch,    ■\\as    wholly 

have  destroyed  the  symmetry  of  the  gate  opposed  to   Roman  taste,    as  we  learn   it 

by  the  replacement  of  such  heaA-j-  unsightly  from  existing  monuments. 
masses.      It   is   much   easier  to   conceive  •'  Mention  is  made  of  the  cataracta  by 

them  to  have  been  placed  there  at  an  earlier  Livy  (XXVII.  2S)  and  by  Vegetius  (de  Re 

period,  wlien    superstition    or    convention  !Milit.  IV.  cap.  4^,  who  speaks  of  it  as  an 

•overcame   a  i-egard  for  the  beautiful.     A  ancient  invention. 

VOL.    ir.  L 


14G  YOLTEEEA.— The  Ciri'.  [chap,  xi.iii, 

masoniT  is  comparatively  small  ;  it  is  most  massive  in  the  thirds 
•wliiili  extends  to  the  length  of  forty  or  fifty  yards,  and  rises  to  a 
considerable  height.  In  this  fragment  are  two  conduits  or 
sewers — square  openings,  with  projecting  sills,  as  at  Fiesole,  ten 
or  twelve  feet  from  the  ground.'  The  fifth  fragment  is  also' 
fine :  but  the  sixth  is  very  grand — forty  feet  in  height,  and 
about  one  hundred  and  forty  in  length  :  and  here  also  open  two- 
sewers.' 

The  masonry  is  very  irregular.  A  horizontal  arrangement 
is  preserved;  but  one  (•t)urse  often  runs  into  another,  shallow 
ones  alternate  with  deep,  or  even  in  the  same  course  several 
shallow  blocks  are  piled  up  to  equal  the  depth  of  the  larger. 
The  masses,  though  intended  to  be  rectangular,  are  I'udeh'  hewn, 
and  more  rudely  put  together,  with  none  of  that  close  "  kissing" 
of  joints,  as  the  Italians  say,  or  neat  fitting-in  of  smaller  pieces> 
which  is  seen  at  Fiesole.  This  may  be  called  a  rectangular 
Cyclopean  style,  if  that  be  not  a  contradiction  in  terms.  Never- 
theless, it  is  essentially  the  same  masonry  as  that  of  Fiesole ;  but 
here  it  is  seen  in  its  rudeness  or  infancy,  while  Fiesole  shows  its^ 
perfection.  To  the  friability  of  the  sandstone  of  which  it  is 
composed,  is  owing  much  of  its  irregular  character,  the  edges  of 
the  blocks  having  greatly  worn  away ;  while  the  walls  of  Fiesole^ 
being  of  harder  rock,  have  suffered  less  from  the  action  of  the 
elements.  Fair  comi^arisons,  however,  can  onh'  be  drawn 
between  the  walls  on  corresponding  sides  of  the  several  cities ; 
for  those  which  face  the  south,  like  these  fragments  under  Santa 
Ohiara,  are  always  found  most  affected  by  the  weather.  As 
usual  in  the  most  ancient  masonry,  there  are  no  traces  of  cement. 
In  spite  of  the  saying. 

Duro  con  diu'o 

Non  fa  mai  buou  miiro, 

these  gigantic  masses  have  held  together  without  it  some  twenty- 
five  or  thirty  centuries,  and  may  yet  stand  for  as  many  more. 
All  the  fragments  on  this  side  of  A'olterra  are  mere  embankments, 
as  at  Fiesole,  to  the  higher  level  of  the  city.  In  parts  the}'  ai'e 
mulerbuilt  Avith  modern  masonry. 

From    Sta.    Chiara    the    walls    may   be    traced    by    detached 

"*  Some  of  tlie  blocks  in   this  fragment  shown  in  the  woodcut  at  the  head  of  this 

are  verj-  large— 8  or  10  feet  long,  bv  2  to  a  Chapter.     The  largest  blocks  here  are  aliout 

in  height.     The  architrave  of  one  of  the  8  feet  long,  and  more  than  3  in  height.   At 

.sewers  is  particularly  massive.  this  particular  .spot  the  wall  is  scarcely  20 

^  It  is  this  portion  of  the  wall  which  is  feet  high. 


CHAP.  xLiii.]  PORTA  DI  DIANA.  147 

fragments,  sometimes  scarcely  rising  alcove  the  ground,  till  tlie^' 
turn  to  the  north,  stretching  along  the  brow  of  tlie  steep  cliff, 
which  bounds  the  city  on  this  side.  At  a  si)ot  called  "  I 
Menseri,"  are  some  massive  portions;  and  just  beyond  the 
hamlet  of  S.  Giusto  are  traces  of  a  road  running  up  to  an  ancient 
gate,  whose  position  is  clearly  indicated.  Here  the  ground  sinks 
in  tremendous  precipices,  "  Le  Baize,"  overhanging  an  abyss 
of  fearful  depth,  and  increasing  its  horror  by  their  own  blackness. 
This  is  tlie  Leucadia — the  lovers'  leap  of  the  Volterrani.  Onty 
a  few  days  before  my  first  visit  a  forlorn  swain  had  taken  the 
plunge. 

Beyond  this,  the  walls  may  be  traced,  more  or  less  distinctly, 
all  round  the  brow  of  the  point  which  juts  out  towards  the  convent 
of  La  Badia.  In  one  part  they  are  seven  feet  in  thickness,  and 
are  no  longer  mere  embankments,  but  rise  fifteen  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  city.  In  another  spot  they  are  topped  by  small  rec- 
tangular masonry,  also  uncemented,  apparently  Iloman.  They 
continue  to  follow  the  brow  of  the  high  ground  in  all  its 
sinuosities ;  double  the  wooded  point  of  Torricella,  and  again 
run  far  up  the  hollow  southward  to  Le  Conce,  or  the  Tanyards, 
above  wliich  they  rise  in  a  massive  picturesque  fragment  over- 
grown with  foliage.  Then  they  stretch  far  away  along  the  lofty 
and  picturesque  cliffs  on  the  east  of  the  hollow,  till  they  lead  you 
round  to  the  "  Portone,"  or 

Porta  di  Diana. 

This  is  another  gateway  of  similar  construction  to  the  Porta 
air  Arco,  but  now  in  ruins.  In  its  ground-plan,  it  is  precisely 
similar,  having  a  double  gate  with  a  connecting  passage.  The 
masonry  is  of  the  same  massive  character  as  that  of  the  city-walls, 
without  an  intermixture  of  different  styles,  except  what  is  mani- 
festly of  modern  date ;  so  that  no  doubt  can  be  entertained  of  its 
purely  Etruscan  construction.  The  dimensions  of  the  gate  very 
nearly  agree  with  those  of  the  Porta  all'  Arco."  The  arches  at 
either  end  are  now  gone ;  the  inner  gate  does  not  indeed  appear 
to  have  had  one,  for  the  door-post  rises  to  the  height  of  about 
twenty  feet,  and  at  twelve  feet  or  so  above  the  ground  is  a  square 
hole  in  a  block  on  each  side  the  gate,  as  if  cut  to  receive  a 
wooden  Imtel.     The  outer  gate  still  retains  traces  of  an  arch,  for 

•^  The   totil    ilciitli    of    the   gateway    is       12  ft.    4  in.,    aiul   in  the   passage  within 
•27  ft.,  that  of  the  (loor-posts  of  each  gate       1")  ft.  6  in. 
•1  ft.  4  in.     Tlie  width  at  the  door-posts  is 


148  YOLTEEEA.— The  City.  [chap,  xliii. 

at  a  height  corresponding  with  the  said  lintel,  there  are  cuneiform 
blocks  on  one  side,  sufficient  to  indicate  an  arch  ;  the  opposite 
■wall  is  too  much  ruined  to  retain  such  vestiges.  It  is  highly 
probable  that  this  gateway  was  constructed  at  the  same  time  as 
the  walls,  and  before  the  invention  of  the  arch,  both  gates  being 
covered  in  by  wooden  lintels,  but  that  in  after  ages  the  outer  gate 
was  repaired,  while  the  inner,  needing  it  less,  was  left  in  its 
original  state. 

This  sort  of  double  gateway  is  found  in  several  ancient  towns 
in  Greece,  as  well  as  in  other  cities  of  Italy.  It  is  to  be  seen 
also  elsewhere  in  Etruiia — at  Cosa,  for  instance,  where  there  is 
more  than  one  specimen  of  it.^ 

From  the  Portone,  the  ancient  fortifications  may  be  traced 
along  the  wooded  steep  to  the  south,  and  then,  instead  of  follow- 
ing its  line,  suddenly  dive  into  the  hollow,  crossing  it  in  an 
independent  wall  nearly  thirty  feet  high.  The  masonry  here  is 
much  smaller  than  in  any  other  part  of  the  walls,  the  courses 
being  often  scarcely  a  foot  in  height ;  yet,  as  in  other  respects  it 
precisel}''  resembles  the  more  massive  fragments,  it  may  be  safely 
pronounced  Etruscan. 

At  the  point  of  high  ground  to  the  east,  is  a  fine  fragment  of 
wall,  six  feet  thick,  rising  twelve  feet  above  the  level  of  the  city, 
and  having  its  inner  smface  as  smooth  as  its  outer.  Beyond  this, 
are  two  remarkable  rcvctements,  Hke  bastions  reverted,  or  with 
their  concavities  towards  the  city.  The  most  easterlv  of  these 
crescent  embankments  rises  to  the  height  of  thirty  feet.^  Just 
beyond  it,  there  are  traces  of  a  postern ;  and  presently  the  wall, 
]")ursuing  the  edge  of  the  steep,  reaches  the  extremity  of  the  city 
to  the  east,  and  turns  sharp  to  the  south.  The  path  to  the 
Seminario  leads  along  the  very  top  of  the  walls,  which  are  here 
from  fourteen  to  seventeen  feet  in  thickness.     They  are  not  solid 

'  Canina  (Archit.  Antica,  Y.  p.  96)  sug-  besieged,  exemplifying  the  rule  of  fortifica- 

gests,  that  it  is  probably  from  this  sort  of  tion  laid  down  by  Vitruvius,  I.  5,  2. 
double   gateway  that   the    plural   terra —  ^  One    block    covering  a    ca^dty,    once 

ai  ThjXai — applied  to  the  gate  of  a  city,  perhaps  a  sewer,  I  found  to  be  1 1  ft.  long, 

took  its  rise.     See  Chap.  I.  j).  12.  o  in  height,   and  i  in  depth  ;  and  another 

It  will   be  obsen'ed  that   this  gate,  as  block,    below  the  cavity,    was    of    nearly 

well  a.s  the  Poi-ta  all'  Arco,  opens  obliquely,  equal  dimensions.     It  may  be  remarked, 

so  that  the  approach  to  it  is  commanded  on  that  the  blocks  in  the  lower  courses  in  this 

one  side  by  the  city-wall,  which  answers  part   of  the    fortifications   are    small   and 

the  purpose  of  towers  whence  to  annoy  the  iiTCgular,  in  the  upper  very  massive.    This 

foe  ;    and  the  approach  is  so  p. aimed  in  I   have  observed  on  other  sites  in  Etrnria 

both  cases,  that  an  assailing  force  would  and   Latium,    which    luive   walls   of  this 

have  its  right  side,  or  that  unprotected  by  character, 
the  shield,  exposed  to  the  attacks  of  the 


CHAP.  xLiii.]  THE  ETRUSCAN  WiM.LS.  149 

throughout,  but  built  with  two  fuces  of  masonry.,  hiiving  the 
intervening  space  stuffed  with  rubbish,  just  as  in  the  cob-walls 
of  England,  and  as  in  that  sort  of  cmplecton,  which  A^itruvius 
characterises  as  Roman.''  Just  beneath  the  Seminario  another 
l)ostern  ma}-  be  distinguished.  From  this  point  you  may  trace 
the  line  of  the  ancient  walls,  by  fragments,  beneath  those  of 
the  modern  town  and  of  the  I'ortress,  round  to  the  Porta  all' 
Arco. 

The  circumference  of  the  ancient  walls  has  been  said  to  be  about 
four  miles  ;  ^  but  it  appears  much  more,  as  the  sinuosities  of  the 
ground  are  very  great.  But  pause,  traveller,  ere  you  venture  to 
make  the  tour  of  them.  Unless  3'ou  be  prepared  for  great  fatigue 
— to  cross  jjloughed  laud — climb  and  descend  steeps — force  3'our 
way  through  dense  woods  and  thickset  hedges — wade  through 
swamps  in  the  hollows  if  it  be  winter — follow  the  beds  of  streams, 
and  creep  at  the  brink  of  precipices  ;  in  a  word,  to  make  a  fairy- 
like  progress 

"  Over  hill,  over  dale, 

Thorough  bvish,  thorough  brier, 
Over  park,  over  pale, 

Thorough  flood — " 

and  onl}^  not 

"  thorough  fire — '' 

think  not  of  the  entire  giro. 

There  are  portions  of  the  wall  which  are  of  no  difficult  access  : 
such  as  the  fine  fragments  under  the  church  of  Santa  Chiara  ; 
those  also  at  Le  Baize  di  San  Giusto,  whither  j^ou  may  drive 
in  a  carriage ;  the  thick  walls  below  the  Seminario,  which  are 
comparatively  near  at  hand  :  and  from  these  a  sufficient  idea  maj' 
be  formed  of  the  massiveness  and  grandeur  of  the  w^alls  of 
Volterra.  The  Portone  also  is  of  easy  access,  and  can  be  taken 
in  the  way  to  the  Grotta  de'  Marmini.  With  the  Plan  of  the  city 
in  his  hand,  the  visitor  will  have  no  difficulty  in  finding  the  most 
remarkable  portions  of  the  ancient  fortifications. 

Within  the  ancient  walls  are  the  remains  of  two  structures 
■which  have  often  been  called  Etruscan — the  Amphitheatre  and 
the   Piscina.      The  first  lies    in  the  A'alle   Buona,  beneath  the 

'■•  Yitniv.  II.   8,   7.     See  Vol.  I.  p.  SO.  will  be  more  than  4i  miles.     Gori  (III. 

This  style  of   "stuffed"  walls  i.s  not  uii-  j).  ?>'l)   cites  an  authority  who  ascribes  to 

common  in  the  cities  of  Greece.  tliem  a  circuit  of  more  tlian  5  miles.     Old 

'  Micali,  Ant.  Pop.  Ital.  I.  p.  141,  and  Albert!  says,  the  city  was  in   the  form  ot 

II.  p.  20'J.   Abcken  (Mittelital.  p.  30)  calls  a  hand,    the    headlands   representing   the 

it  21,000  feet.    It  Jlicali's  map  be  correct,  fingers.     But  it  requires  a  lively  fancy  to 

which  calls  it  7, 280 '73  metres,  tlie  circuit  perceive  the  resemblance. 


1.30  YOLTEEEA.— The  City.  [chap,  xliii. 

modern  wallsj  to  the  north.  Nothing  is  now  to  be  seen  beyond  ji 
semicircle  of  seats,  apparently  cut  in  the  slope  of  the  hill  and  now 
covered  with  tm-f.  It  displays  not  a  trace  of  antiquity,  and  seems 
to  have  been  formed  for  no  other  purpose  than  that  it  is  now 
applied  to — witnessing  the  game  of  the  j^fiUonc.  One  may  well 
doubt  if  it  has  ever  been  more  than  a  theatre,  for  the  other  half 
of  the  structure,  which  must  have  been  of  masonry,  has  totally 
disappeared.  Its  antiquity,  however,  has  been  well  ascertained, 
and  it  has  even  been  regarded  as  an  Etruscan  structure,-  but 
more  discriminating  criticism  pronounces  it  to  be  Roman. 

Outside  the  gate  of  the  fortress,  but  within  the  walls  of  the  town, 
is  the  so-called  Piscina.  Like  all  the  structm-es  of  similar  name 
elsewhere  in  Italy,  this  is  underground — a  series  of  three  pai'allel 
vaults  of  gTeat  depth,  supported  by  square  pillars,  and  evidently 
either  a  resen'oii'  for  water,  or,  as  the  name  it  has  received 
implies,  a  preserve  for  fish ;  more  probably  the  former.  The 
vaults  are  arched  over,  but  the  pillars  are  connected  by  flat  archi- 
traves, composed  of  cuneiform  blocks,  holding  together  on  the 
arch  principle.  There  is  nothing  in  this  peculiar  construction 
Avhich  is  un-Etruscan  :  '^  but  the  general  character  of  the  structure, 
strongly  resembling  other  buildings  of  this  kind  of  undoubtedly 
Eoman  origin,  proves  this  to  have  no  higher  antiquity.  Gori, 
Avho  was  the  first  to  descend  into  it,  in  1739,  braving  the  snakes 
with  which  tradition  had  filled  it,  declared  it  to  be  of  Etniscan  con- 
struction, an  opinion  which  has  been  commonly  followed,  even  to 
the  present  day.^  He  who  has  seen  the  Piscine  of  the  Campanian 
coast,  may  well  avoid  the  difficulties  attending  a  descent  into  this. 
A  formal  application  has  to  be  made  to  the  Bishop,  who  keeps 
the  key ;  a  ladder  of  unusual  length  has  next  to  be  sought,  there 
being  no  steps  to  descend  ;  the  Bishop's  servant,  and  the  men 
who  bring  the  ladder,  have  to  be  fed  :  so  that  to  those  who  con- 
sider time,  trouble,  and  expense,  lejfu  ne  rant  pas  la  chanddlc. 

A  thiixl  relic,  which  has  erroneously  been  called  Etruscan,  is 
the  Terme,  or  Baths,  which  lie  just  outside  the  gate  of  San 
Felice,  on  the  south  of  the  town.  The  form  and  disjiosition  of 
the  chambers,  the  brickwork,  the  opus  inccrtnm,  the  fragments  of 
mosaic  pavement,  tlie  marble  slabs  with   bas-reliefs— everything 

-  Gori,  ilus.  Etr.  III.  p.  59,  tab.  8.  and  certain  tombs  of  Penigia  and  Chiusi, 

•'  The  gates  of  the  theatre  of  Fereuto,  could  have  had  no  difficulty  in  constructing 

which  are  most  probably  of  that  origin,  are  a  cuneiform  architrave  like  this. 

similarly  formed  (see  Vol.  I.  p.  150  i.     The  *  Gori,  III.  p.  63.    It  is  called  by  Hoare, 

people  who  brought  the  arch  to  such  per-  the  most  perfect  Etruscan  work  at  Yolterra. 

fection  as  is  seen  in  the   Cloaca  Maxima  Classical  Tour,  I.  p.  9. 


c'HAP.  XLiii.]  GROTTA   DEI  MARMINI.  1-51 

on  the  site  is  so  purely  lloman,  that  it  is  difficult  to  understand 
how  a  liigher  antiquity  could  ever  have  been  assigned  to  this  ruin. 
Tlie  necropolis  of  Yolterra,  as  usual,  surrounded  the  town ; 
but  from  the  nature  of  the  ground,  the  slopes  l)eneath  the  walls 
to  the  north  were  particularly  selected  for  burial.  Here,  for 
centuries  past,  numerous  tombs  liave  been  opened,  from  which 
the  Museum  of  the  town,  as  well  as  other  collections,  public  and 
private,  in  various  parts  of  Europe,  have  been  stored  with  anti- 
<|uarian  wealth.  From  the  nndtitude  of  sepulchres,  this  spot  has 
received  the  name  of  Campo  Nero- — "  l>]ack  Field''" — a  name 
now  almost  obsolete.  But,  though  hundreds — nay,  thousands — 
of  tombs  have  been  opened,  what  remains  to  satisfy  the  curiosity 
of  the  visitor  ?  Three  sepulchres  alone.  All  the  rest  have  been 
covered  in  as  soon  as  rifled;  the  usual  excuse  being — " jJcr  non 
dannificar  il  poderey  Even  the  tomb  of  the  Csecinse,  that  family 
so  illustrious  in  nncient  times,  has  been  refilled  witli  earth,  lest 
the  produce  of  a  square  yard  or  two  of  soil  should  be  lost  to  the 
•owner;  and  its  site  is  now  forgotten.     "()  opthiii  cives  Volater- 


i\nii 


Axe  ye  deserving  of  the  commendation  Cicero  bestowed 
on  3'our  ancestors,^  when  ye  set  so  little  store  on  the  monuments 
of  those  very  forefathers  which  Fortune  has  placed  in  3'our 
hands  ?  Should  not  yours  be  rather  tlie  reproach  that  great  man 
cast  on  the  Syracusans,  who  knew  not  the  sepulchre  of  their 
great  citizen,  Archimedes,  until  he  pointed  it  out  to  them  ?  "* 


Grotta  de'  Marmixi. 

This  sepulchre,  Avhich  should  more  properly  be  called  "  Grotta 
<_"inci,"  from  the  name  of  its  discoverer,  Signor  Giusto  Cinci, 
and  which  is  said  to  be  a  type,  in  form  and  character,  of  the 
tombs  of  Yolterra,  lies  on  the  hill-slope  a  little  below  the  Porta 
<li  Diana,  on  a  spot  marked  by  a  clump  of  cypresses.  The 
key  is  kept  at  a  cottage  just  outside  the  Gate,  and  torches 
ma}'  also  be  had  there.  Like  all  the  tombs  of  Volterra,  this  is  a 
^i.i/poflceum,  or  sepulchre  below  the  surface  ;  and  you  descend  by 
a  fevv'  steps  to  the  door,  above  which  is  some  rude  masonry. 
The  tomb  is  circular,  seventeen  or  eighteen  feet  in  diameter,  but 
scarcely  six  feet  in  height,  with  a  large  square  pillar  in  the 
centre,  and  a  triple  tier  of  benches  around  the  walls — all  rudely 
liewn  from  the  rock,  a  yellow  conchiliferous  sandstone,  the  same 

"  ({ori,  Jlus.  Ktnis.  III.  ji.  93.  "  Cicero,  pro  Domo  sua,  XXX. 

'  Cicero,  Tusc.  (iiucst.  \".  23. 


1.52  YOLTEREA.— The  City.  [chap,  xliii. 

"  pmuhina"  of  -wliicli  many  of  the  ums  are  formed.  On  the 
benches  are  ranged  numerous  ash-chests,  about  two  or  three  feet 
long,  miniature  sarcophagi,  with  reclining  figures  on  the  lids, 
some  stretched  on  their  backs,  but  most  resting  on  one  elbow  in 
the  usual  attitude  of  the  banquet.  In  the  southern  part  of 
Etruria,  two  or  three,  rarely  more  than  six  or  eight,  sarcoi)hagi 
are  found  in  one  chamber ;  but  here  are  at  least  forty  or  fifty 
unis — the  ashes  of  a  family  for  several  generations. 

"  The  dead  above,  and  the  dead  below. 
Lay  ranged  in  many  a  coffined  row." 

These  urns  are  of  ixincli'ina,  travertine,  or  alabaster,  but  are 
now  so  blackened  by  the  smoke  of  the  torches  as  to  have  lost  all 
beauty.  Two  large  j)ine-cones  of  stone,  common  funereal  em- 
blems, lie  one  on  each  side  of  the  entrance.  There  is  a  hole  in 
the  roof  of  the  tomb,  but  whether  formed  in  ancient  times  to  let 
otf  the  efiluvium,  or  by  modern  excavators,  is  not  evident. 

Such  is  said  to  be  the  general  character  of  the  sepulchres  on 
this  site.  Their  form  is  often  circular;'*  while  in  Southern 
Etruria  that  form  is  rarely  found,  the  oblong  or  square  being 
prevalent.  No  tomb  with  painted  walls,  or  with  architectural 
decorations  carved  in  the  rock,  has  ever  been  discovered  in  this 
necropohs.  Some,  however,  of  a  singular  description  have  been 
brought  to  light.^ 

Tomb  of  the  Cx.cis.'e. 

In  this  same  part  of  the  necropolis,  as  long  smce  as  1739,  was 
discovered  a  tomb  of  the  Ctecina  family,  illustrious  in  Eoman 

>*  Gori  ',:\rus.  Etr.  III.   p.  93)  says  the  colate  through  tlie  roof  and  walls.     The 

tombs   of   Volten-a    are    more   frequently  vases  are  generally  placed  between  the  urns, 

square  than  round,  and  are  sometimes  even  or  in  front  of  them,  if  there  be  not  room 

triangular.     Inghirami  says  they  are  gene-  at  the  side,   and  the  mirrors  are  also  laid 

rally  circular,   especially  when  small,  but  in  front.     Inghir.   IV.   p.  S3.     When  the 

quadrangular  when  large  (Jlon.  Etrusc.  IV.  Iwdy  was  not  burnt,  as  usual,  it  was  laid 

1».  80)  ;  and  he  gives  a  plate  of  one  with  on  the  bare  rock.      Sarcophagi  were  very 

four  square  chambers  (lY.  t^w.  16).     Gori  rarely  used. 

asserts  that  the  roofs  are  often  formed  of  a  "A  tomb  was  found  in  this  necropolis, 

•single  stone  of  enormous  size,   sometimes  in    1738,  which  was  supposed,  from    the 

.supported  in  the  middle  by  a  pillar  hewn  numerous  pots,  pans,  and  plates  within  it, 

from   the  rock.     The  entrances  generally  to  have  been  an  Etruscan  kitchen— some 

face  the  west.  Testimony,  unfortunately,  is  of  the  pots  being  full  of  the  bones  of  kids 

well-nigh  our  only  authority  in  the  matter.  and  of  little  birds.      MS.  description,  cited 

A  second  tomb  is  sometimes  found  beneath  by  Inghirami,  ilou.  Etrus.  IV.  p.  90,     But 

tlie  first,  says  Inghirami  (IV.  p.  94).     In  these  must  have   been  the   relics  of  the 

the  centre  of  the  floor  of  the  tomb,  there  funeral  feast ;  a  pair  of  gold  earrings  in  an 

is   often    a   hole,    probaljly    formed    as   a  urn  was  hardly  consistent  with  the  idea  of 

recci)tacle  for  the  water  that  might  per-  a  kitchen. 


CHAP.  xLiii.]  TOMB  OF  THE  CiECIN^.  153 

annals.  As  described  by  Gori,  wh(^  must  lisive  seen  it,  tliis 
tomb  was  very  like  the  Grotta  de'  jNIarmini,  but  on  u  larger 
scale.  At  the  depth  of  eight  feet  belov/  the  surface,  was  found 
an  archway  of  beautiful  construction,  opening  on  a  jDassage  lined 
with  similar  masonr}',  and  leading  down  to  the  rock-hewn  door 
of  the  tomb,  which  was  closed  with  a  large  slab.  The  sepulchre 
was  circular,  about  forty  feet  in  diameter,  supported  by  a  stout 
cohnun  in  the  midst,  and  surrounded  by  a  triple  tier  of  benches, 
all  hewn  from  the  rock.  I'orty  urns  of  alabaster,  adorned  with 
painting  and  gilding,  were  found  lying,  not  on  the  benches  where 
they  had  originally  been  arranged,  but  in  a  confused  heap  on  the 
floor,  as  though  they  had  been  cast  there  by  former  plunderers, 
or  "  thrown  down  by  an  earthquake,"  as  Gori  suggests — more 
probably  the  former.  Just  within  the  door  stood  a  beautiful 
Koman  cipjjiis,  with  a  sepulchral  inscription  in  Latin,  of  "  A. 
Caecina."^  Most  of  the  urns  also  bore  inscriptions,  some  in 
Etruscan,  a  few  in  Latin,  but  all  of  the  same  famil}'.  They 
have  foi-tunatelj'  been  preserved  in  the  Museum  of  the  city,  just 
then  commenced,  but  the  tomb  where  they  had  lain  for  at  least 
two  thousand  3'ears,  has  been  covered  in,  and  its  very  site  is  now 
forgotten.^ 

A  second  tomb  of  this  family  was  discovered  in  1785,  con- 
taining about  fort}'  urns  ;  none  of  them  with  Latin  inscriptions.'' 

A  third  tomb  of  the  Cfecina  famil}-  was  discovered  in  1810, 
outside  the  Gate  of  Diana,  containing  six  chambers,  and  nume- 
rous urns  with  Etruscan  inscriptions.^  Thus  it  would  appear 
that  this  family  was  numerous  as  well  as  powerful.  It  has 
become  extinct  onlj^  in  our  own  dsLj/' 

In  1831,  Signor  Giusto  Cinci,  to  whom  most  of  the  excava- 
tions at  Yolterra  of  late  3'ears  are  due,  discovered  the  vestiges 
of  two   tumular    sepulchres,   which    had    been    covered  in   with 


'  Gori  (III.  p.  94,  tab.  11)  and  Inglii-  door  was  12  hraceia  (23  feet)  below  the 

rami  (Moii.  Etrus.  YI.  p.   23.  tav.  D  3.)  surface;  the  first  chamber  wa.s  of  irregular 

call  it  an  altar,  which  it  resembles  in  form  ;  form,  having  a  column  in  the  midst,  and 

but  the  inscription  marks  it  as  a  c'qypus.  two  rows  of  benches  around  the  walls,  on 

It  is  DOW  in  the  Museum  of  Yolterra.  which  the  urns  were  found  upset  and  in 

-  Descriptions  and  illustrations  of  this  great  confusion  ;  the  inscriptions  were  all 

tomb  are  given  by  Maflei,  Ossery.  Lett.  Y.  Etruscan.     The  other  five  chambers  were 

p.  318  ;  Gori,  loc.  cit.  tab.  10  ;  and  Inghi-  of  inferior  size.     Ingliirami  thinks  it  wa.s 

rami,  Mon.    Etrus.   lY.  p.    So,  taw.   11,  the  early  Christians  who  ovcrtunied   the 

15.  urns  in  these  tombs,  in  theii-  iconoclastio 

Inghiranii,  Mon.  Etrus.  I.  ]».  11.  zeal. 

A  de.scrii»tion  of  it  will   be  found  in  '■'  See  the  next  Chapter,  p.  18(5. 

Inghirami's  Jlon.  Etrus.  lY.  p.  107.     The 


1.34 


Y(3LTEimA.— The  City. 


[chap,  xliii. 


iiiasourv,  in  tlie  loriu  of  domes.  Though  but  shght  vestiges 
remained,  it  "was  evident  that  the  cone  of  one  had  been  composed 
of  small  rectangular  blocks  of  tiifo,  rudely  lie\Yn.  and  unce- 
mented ;  the  other,  of  large  masses  of  travertine,  also  without 
cement,  whose  uj^per  sides  proved  the  structure  to  have  been  of 
irregular  polygons,  though  resting  on  a  basement  of  rectangular 
masomy.''  This  is  the  only  instance  known  of  polygonal  con- 
struction so  far  noilh  in  Italy,  and  is  the  more  remarkable,  as 
every  other  relic  of  ancient  architecture  on  this  site  is  strictly 
rectangular.  Though  the  construction  of  this  tomb  betokened 
a  high  antiquity,  the  alabaster  urns  it  contained  betrayed  a  com- 
l)aratively  recent  date,'  and  seemed  to  mark  a  reappropriation  of 
a  very  ancient  sepulchre.  These  domed  tombs  must  have  borne 
a  close  analog}'  in  miniature  to  the  Treasuries  of  Atreus  and 
]N[inyas,  and  also  to  the  Nuraghe  of  Sardmia,  and  the  Talajots  of 
the  Balearic  Islands.^ 


''  These  monuments  were  only  H  feet 
apart.  Each  cone  had  a  basement  of  reguLir 
masonry,  aliout  9  feet  square,  and  beneatli 
one  of  these  were  several  courses  of  rude 
blocks,  below  the  surface  of  the  gi-ouud, 
and  resting  on  the  doorway  of  the  sepul- 
chre, which  was  composed  of  two  upiight 
blocks,  crossed  by  a  third  as  a  lintel. 

''  Inghirami  says,  ;is  late  a-s  the  seventh 
or  eighth  century  of  Eome,  the  i)eriod  to 
which  he  refers  most  of  the  ums  of  Yol- 
ten-a.  He  ha.s  given  full  jmrticulars  of 
these  tombs,  together  with  illustrations. 
Ann.  Inst.  1832,  pp.  26-30,  tav.  d' Agg.  A. 

®  These  were  genuine  specimens  of  the 
tholus,  or  domed  structure  of  the  Greeks, 
such  as  we  see  it  in  the  TreasuiT  of 
Atreus  at  IMycenae ;  and  they  are  the 
only  instances  known  of  sucli  tkoli  in 
Etniria,  though  one  was  found  some  ages 
since  at  Gubbio,  the  ancient  Iguvium,  in 
I'mbria,  where  the  celelirated  inscribed 
tablets,  called  the  Eugubian  Tables,  were 
discovered.  Gori,  J[us.  Etrus.  III.  j).  100, 
tab.  18.  6.  They  also  closely  resemble  the 
Xuraghe  of  Sardinia,  and  still  more  the 
Talajots  of  the  Balearics,  inasmuch  as  the 
latter  are  cones  containing  but  one  such 
chamber,  while  the  Xuraghe  have  often 
several.  The  i)oint  of  difference  is,  that 
these  domed  tombs  of  Volterra,  like  that  of 
Gubbio,  must  have  been  covered  with  a 
mound  of  earth,  while  the  Nuraghe  and 
Talajots  are  solid  cones  of  masonrj',  like 


one  of  the  towers  in  the  Cucumella  of  Vulci, 
but  hollowed  into  chambers,  and  raised 
above  the  surface.  The  Xuraghe  still  exist 
in  gi-eat  numbers  in  Sardinia.  X'o  fewer 
than  3000  are  said  by  De  la  Mai-mora  to 
be  scattered  over  the  shores  of  that  Lsland. 
and  the  Talajots  are  not  much  less  numerous 
in  the  Balearics.  The  former,  which  rise 
30  or  40  feet  above  ground,  have  sometimes 
two  or  three  stories,  each  ^nth  a  domed 
chambea-  connected  by  spiral  pa.ssages  left 
in  the  masonrj' ;  sometimes  several 
chambers  are  on  the  same  floor,  communi- 
cating by  corridors  ;  the  structure,  insteiid 
of  being  conical,  is  sometimes  three-sided, 
yet  with  the  angles  rounded.  Some  of 
them  have  basements  of  masonry  like  these 
tombs  of  Volterra  ;  and  others  are  raised 
on  platforms  of  earth,  with  embankments 
of  masonrj-  twenty  feet  in  height.  Thougli 
so  numerous,  none  are  found  in  so  complete 
a  st;ite  of  jireservation  that  it  can  be  de- 
cided whether  they  terminated  above  in  a 
perfect  or  a  truncated  cone.  They  are,  in 
general,  of  regular  though  rude  masonry, 
but  a  few  are  of  polygonal  construction. 
They  are  evidently  of  high  antiquity.  The 
construction  of  the  domed chambei-s,  fonned, 
like  the  Treasury  of  Atreus,  by  the  conver- 
gence of  horizontal  strati,  establishes  this 
beyond  a  doubt.  To  what  race  to  ascribe 
them  Ls  still  in  dispute.  De  la  Marmora, 
^licali,  and  Arri,  assign  them  to  the 
Phoenicians  or  Carthaginians  ;  Petit-fiadel, 


CHAP.  XLiii.]         THOLI,   Oil  DOMED   SIOPULCIIRES. 


l.j.j 


I'lxciivations  are  still  carricul  on  at  A'oltorra,  and  ot"  late  years 
with  much  regularity  and  spirit.  Multitudes  of  urns  have  been 
i>rought  to  light,  together  with  coins  and  jewellery,  and  various 
objects  in  terra  cotta,  bronze,  and  glass.''  In  18G8  a  deposit  of 
sixty  archaic  Greek  coins,  of  silver,  was  discovered — proving  that 
commercial  intercourse  existed  between  Volterra  and  Greece  long 
prior  to  the  Roman  conquest.^ 

When  the  first  edition  of  this  work  Avas  published  there  Avas 
but  a  single  sepulchre  in  this  necropolis,  the  Grotta  de'  Marmini, 
preserved  for  public  inspection.  Two  others  have  since  been 
added,  both  situated  in  the  Villa  Inghirami,  which  lies  to  the 
east  of  Volterra,  near  the  (*onvent  of  San  Girolamo.  The  tra- 
veller should  not  omit  to  pay  a   visit  to   this  Villa  to  see  these 


fi>  tlie  Tyrrheiie-Pela.sgi,  in  wlii<'li  lie  is 
I'ol lowed  Iiy  Abeken  ;  and  to  this  view 
Ingliirauii  also  inclines.  Miiller,  however, 
regarded  them  as  Etruscan,  rather  than 
Pelasgic  (Etrusk.  ly.  2,  2).  For  Petit- 
Kadel's  opinion  there  is  ancient  authority'  ; 
for  the  pseudo-Aristotle  (deMirali.  Auscult. 
cap.  104)  mentions  the  (lioli  of  Sardinia, 
huilt  by  lolaus,  son  of  Iphieles,  in  the 
ancient  Greek  style.  Diodorus  (IV.  p.  2o5, 
ed.  Rhod. )  speaks  of  them  under  the  name 
of  Dajdalia,  so  called  from  the  celebrated 
Daedalus,  their  traditional  ai'chitect.  These 
tholl  can  be  no  other  than  the  Nuraghe. 
Though  Micali  does  not  take  thjm  to  be 
tombs,  and  Canina  (Archit.  Ant.  \.  ji. 
547)  thinks  they  w^ere  treasuries  or  forts, 
there  is  little  doubt  of  their  sepulchral 
character  ;  for  skeletons  have  often  been 
found  in  them,  and  funereal  furniture, 
chiefly  in  metal.  For  detailed  descriptions 
and  illustrations  of  them,  see  De  la  Mar- 
snora,  Voyage  en  Sardaigne,  torn.  11.,  and 
liull.  Inst.  1833,  p.  121  ;  1834,  pp.  68-70; 
Petit- Iliidel,  Nuraghes  de  la  Sardaigne, 
Paris,  1826  8  ;  Arri,  Nur-hag  della  Sar- 
degna,  Torino,  1835  ;  Micali,  Ant.  Pop. 
Ital.  II.  pp.  43  et  seq.  ;  III.  p.  Ill, 
tav.  71  ;  Abeken,  Bull.  Inst.  1840,  pp. 
155-160;  1841,  pp.  40  2  ;  Mittelitalien, 
pp.  236-8. 

Conical  structures,  roofed  in  exactly  on 
the  same  plan  as  the  Treasui-y  of  Atreus 
and  other  ancient  tlioli,  have  been  dis- 
covered in  the  Valley  of  the  Ohio.  Mr. 
Stephens  (Yucatan,  I.  p.  433)  wisely  for- 
bears to  infer  for  them  a  common  origin, 
which    could    be    no    more    satisfactorily 


established  by  these  monuments  than  tor 
the  inhabitants  of  Egj-pt  and  Central 
America  l)y  the  coincidence  of  pjTamiilal 
structures  in  both  lands.    • 

'■*  For  accounts  of  the  excavations  at 
Volterra  in  i^ast  ag^,  see  Inghirami,  ]\Io- 
numenti  Etruschi,  IV.  Ragionamento,  V. 
l)p.  78-110.  For  the  more  recent  ojiera- 
tious  consult  the  Biillettini  of  the  Archieo- 
logical  Institute.  In  1844,  I  saw  at 
Volterra,  in  the  possession  of  Signer  Agos- 
tino  Pilastri,  a  number  of  curious  bronzes, 
wliici  had  been  just  discovered  in  the 
neighbourhood,,  not  in  a  sepulchre  as  usual, 
but  T)uried  at  a  little  depth  below  the 
surface,  and  on  a  spot  where  no  ancient 
relies  had  previously  been  found.  It  .seemed 
as  though  they  had  been  hastily  inteiTed 
for  concealment,  but  whether  in  ancient  or 
comparatively  modern  times  it  was  impos- 
sible to  say.  They  consisted  of  si.x  crested 
snakes,  their  sex  distinguished  by  the 
comb,  probably  attached  as  adornments  to 
helmets  or  shields — thGhernusoi  a  (ienius, 
18  inches  high,  with  diadem  and  patera  — 
two  female  figures,  most  ludicrously  attenu- 
atetl,  each  holding  a  patera — a  male  in  a 
toga,  about  a  foot  high,  of  excellent  art — 
a  horse  galloping,  probably  a  sijnum  mili- 
^ny;— and  a  large  votive  dove,  10  or  12 
inches  long,  of  solid  bronze,  with  an 
Etruscan  in.scription  on  its  wing,  which  is 
given  in  my  notice  of  these  articles,  Bull. 
Inst.  1845,  p.  137. 

1  Bull.  Inst.  1868,  p.  134.  For  the  mo.st 
recent  .sracl,  see  Bulb  Inst.,  1S74,  pp. 
229-236. 


156  YOLTEERA.— The  City.  [ciiAr.  xLiir. 

tombs,  and  the  Buclie  de'  Saracini.  May  he  have  such  a  bright 
si)nng  morning  as  I  enjoyed,  for  the  walk.  The  sun,  -which  had 
scarcely  scaled  the  mountain-tops,  looked  in  vain  through  the 
clear  ether  for  a  cloud  to  shadow  his  brightness.  'i'he  wide, 
deep  valley  of  the  Cecina  at  my  feet,  all  its  nakedness  and 
wiinkled  desolation  lost  in  the  shadow  of  the  purple  mountains 
to  the  south,  was  crossed  by  two  long  lines  of  Avhite  vapour,  which 
might  have  been  taken  for  fleecy  clouds,  had  they  not  been  trace- 
able to  the  tall  chimneys  of  the  Saltworks  in  the  depths  of  the 
valley.  Behind  the  mass  of  Monte  Catino,  to  the  west,  shone 
out  the  bright  blue  Mediterranean,  with  the  rocky  island  of 
Gorgona  prominent  on  its  bosom ;  far  be^'ond  it,  to  the  right,  the 
snow-capt  mountains  of  Corsica  hovered  like  a  cloud  on  the 
horizon,  and  to  the  left,  rose  the  dark,  sullen  peaks  of  Elba^ 
half-concealed  by  intervening  heights.  So  pure  the  atmosphere, 
that  many  a  white  sail  might  be  distinguished,  studding  the 
far-off  deep ;  and  even  the  track  of  a  steamer  was  marked  by  a 
dark  thread  on  the  bright  face  of  the  waters. 

As  I  descended  the  hill  to  the  convent  of  San  Girolamo  the 
scenery  on  tlie  northern  side  of  A'olterra  came  into  view.  The 
cit}',  with  its  walls  and  convents  crowning  the  opposite  steep,  now 
formed  the  principal  object;  the  highest  point  crested  by  the 
towers  of  the  fortress,  and  the  lower  heights  displaying  fragments 
of  the  ancient  wall,  peeping  at  intervals  from  the  foliage.  At  my 
feet  lay  an  expanse  of  bare  undulating  country,  the  vallej'  of  the 
Era,  broken  into  ravines  and  studded  with  villages ;  softening  off 
in  the  distance  into  the  well-known  plain  of  Pisa,  with  the  dark 
mountains  behind  that  city — 

Per  cui  i  Pisau  veder  Lucca  non  ponno — 

expanding  into  a  form  which  recalled  the  higher  beauties  of  the 
Alban  INIount,  There  was  still  the  blue  sea  in  the  distance,  with 
the  bald,  jagged  mountains  of  Carrara,  ever  dear  to  the  memory, 
overhanging  the  Gulf  of  Spezia  ;  and  the  sublime  hoary  peaks  of 
the  Apennines,  sharply  cutting  the  azure,  filled  up  the  northern 
horizon — sea,  gulf,  and  mountains,  all  so  many  boundaries  of 
ancient  Etruria.  The  weather  had  been  gloomy  and  misty  the 
previous  days  I  had  spent  at  A'^olterra,  so  that  this  range  of  icy 
sublimities  burst  upon  me  like  a  new  creation.  The  convent  of 
S.  Girolamo,  with  its  grove  of  ilices  and  cypresses,  formed  a 
beautiful  foreground  to  the  scene. 

The  Villa  Inghirami,  which  lies  lower  on  the  slope,  belongs  to 


CHAP.  XLiH.]     VILLA  INGIIIEAMI,    AND   ITS  TOMBS.  157 

one  of  that  old  VolatoiTiin  faniily,  ^vhicll  for  ages  lias  hcvn  re- 
nowned i'ov  arts  and  anus, — - 

Chi  puu  r  arnii  taccr  d'  un  Inghirami  ? — 

or  has  distinguished  itself  in  scientific  or  antiquarian  research  ; 
and  a  most  illustrious  memhcr  of  which  was  the  late  Cavalier 
Francesco,  the  celebrated  writer  on  Etruscan  antiquities.  The 
antiquarian  interest  of  the  spot  lies  in  the  tombs  and  in  the  so- 
called  Buclie  de'  Saracini.  To  see  them  j'ou  must  beat  up  the 
gardener  of  the  Villa,  who  will  furnish  you  with  lights. 

The  tomb  which  was  first  discovered  on  this  spot  is  i]i  the 
form  of  a  Latin  cross,  with  four  square  chambers,  all  surrounded 
by  benches  hewn  from  the  rock,  on  which  are  arranged  some 
forty  sepulchral  urns,  most  of  them  of  panchina  or  of  alabaster, 
with  a  few  of  terra-cotta.  Not  all  Avere  found  within  this  tomb, 
for  in  addition  to  those  that  belong  to  it  are  some  from  the  Cinci 
collection,  the  best  of  which  were  long  since  transferred  to  the 
Etruscan  Museum  at  Florence. 

The  other  sepulchre  was  opened  in  1861  by  the  brothers 
Inghirami,  in  w'hose  ground  it  lies.  You  approach  it  by  a  passage 
sunk  in  the  rock ;  the  tomb  is  circular  and  about  twenty  feet 
in  diameter,  the  roof  being  supported  by  a  pillar  of  rock  in  the 
centre.  On  the  bench  wdiicli  surrounds  the  chamber  is  a  double 
row  of  urus,  fifty-three  in  all,  most  of  them  of  alabaster  and  in 
excellent  preservation.  From  the  variet}'  of  styles  of  art  which 
these  urns  display,  it  is  evident  they  belong  to  different  epochs, 
and  it  may  be  inferred  that  this  tomb  served,  as  a  family  vault 
through  many  generations.  Some  are  of  very  simple  archaic 
character,  others  show  that  minute  attention  to  details  which 
marks  an  advanced  period  of  art.  The  recumbent  figures  on  the 
lids  have  all  the  character  of  portraits.  The  reliefs  generally 
display  well  known  subjects  from  the  Theban  cycle,  or  the 
Trojan  War;  the  siege  of  Thebes — Laius  slain  by  (Kdipus — the 
mutual  slaughter  of  Eteocles  and  Polyneices — Paris  kneeling  on 
an  altar,  and  defending  himself  from  his  brethren — the  Pape  of 
Helen — Philoctetes  in  Lennios — the  murder  of  Clyticmnestra  and 
her  paramour — the  death  of  Neoptolemus,  slain  by  Orestes — 
Perseus  rescuing  Andromeda — Pelops  carrying  off  Hippodameia 
in  a  quadriga.  Not  a  few  show  scenes  of  private  life — banquets, 
boar-hunts,  death-beds,  the  parting  of  relatives,  funerals,  ikt-.  A 
few  have  quite  novel  subjects.  Two  warriors,  sword  in  hand;  and 
each  bearing  on  his  shoulder  a  woman  Avitli  a  baby  or  idol  in  her 


158  YOLTEEEA.— The  City.  [chap,  xliii. 

arms,  are  i)roceecliug  frt)ni  a  temple  towards  a  gateway,  ami  are 
passing  the  guards  stretched  in  slumber  on  the  ground,  one  of 
Avhom  suddenly  awaking,  seeks  to  protect  himself  with  his  pillow 
from  the  threatened  blow.  Behind  the  temple  stands  a  Fury 
Avith  a  torch.  Th.is  scene  has  been  interpreted  as  the  Eape  of 
the  Palladium. - 

Two  other  urns  with  novel  subjects  are  in  fragments;  in  one 
relief  is  a  liunum  figure  with  a  monkcA's  head,  which  we  recom- 
mend to  the  attention  of  all  advocates  of  the  modern  theory  of 
evolution. ■' 

Another  relief  shows  a  man  standing  under  a  tree,  holding  his 
horse  by  the  bridle  ;  and  before  him  stand  five  oxen,  three  sheep, 
and  as  many  pigs.  This  scene  has  been  interpreted  as  Ul3'sses 
conversmg  with  his  companions,  brutified  by  the  enchantments 
of  Circe ;  but  as  these  animals  are  genuine  cattle  without  any 
indications  of  metamori^hosis,  it  is  not  easy  to  accept  this  inter- 
pretation of  this  novel  subject.' 

To  see  the  "  Buche  de'  Saracini"  you  must  enter  a  little  cave 
in  a.  bank,  and  follow  the  gardener  through  a  long  passage  cut 
in  the  rock,  six  feet  wide  but  only  three  high,  so  that  you  must 
travel  on  all  fours.  From  time  to  time  the  passage  widens  into 
chambers,  yet  not  high  enough  to  permit  you  to  stand  upright ; 
or  it  meets  other  passages  of  similar  character  opening  in  various 
directions,  and  extending  into  the  heart  of  the  hill,  how  far  no 
one  can  say.  In  short,  this  is  a  perfect  labj'rinth,  in  which,  with- 
out a  clue,  one  might  very  soon  be  lost. 

By  whom,  and  for  what  j^urpose  these  passages  were  formed,  I 
cannot  hazard  an  opmion.  Though  I  went  far  into  the  hill,  I 
saw  no  signs  of  tombs,  or  of  a  sepulchral  appropriation — nothing 
to  assimilate  them  to  catacombs.  That  they  have  not  lost  their 
original  character  is  proved  by  the  marks  of  the  chisel  everywhere 
fresh  on  the  walls.  The}'  are  too  low  for  subterranean  communi- 
cations, otherwise  one  might  lend  an  ear  to  the  vulgar  belief  that 
they  were  formed  to  connect  the  Yilla  with  the  Palazzo  Inghii'ami 
in  the  toAvn.  Tliey  have  no  decided  Etruscan  character,  yet 
are  not  unlike  the  tortuous  passages  in  the  Poggio  Gajella  at 
Chiusi,  and  in  the  Grotta  llegina  at  Toscanella.  The  cave  at 
the    entrance    is    lined    with   rude    masonry,    apparentl}'    of    no 

-  Kiesi'liiig,  Arcli.  Ariz.   18(il,  ji.    228,  p.  343  of  tliis  volume, 
cited  by  Bninii,  i5ull.  Inst.  1SG2,  ]>.  211.  ■•  For  an  account  of  the.se  tomlis  in  tlie 

•*  Similar   figures    are    to   be  seen   in   a  Yilla  Ingliirami,  see  IJull.  Inst,  1862,  iiji. 

ljuint<;d  tomb  at  Chiusi.     See  Chapter  [>i,  207-213. 


CHAP.  xLiii.]  BUCHE  DEI  SAEACINI.  i:>{> 

early  date.  Another  tradition  ascriLes  their  formation  to  tlic 
Saracens,  once  the  scourges,  and  at  tlie  same  time  tlie  bugbears 
of  the  Italian  coast.  Though  these  infidel  pirates  were  wont  to 
make  descents  on  these  shores  during  the  middle  ages,  carrying 
off  plunder  and  Avomen,  tliey  were  often  creatures  of  I'omance 
rather  than  of  reality ;  ever}'  trace  of  Avanton  barbarity  and  de- 
struction is  attributed  to  them,  as  to  Cromwell's  dragoons  in 
England  ;  and  as  they  have  also  the  fame  of  having  been  great 
magicians,  many  a  marvel  of  Nature  and  of  Art  is  ascribed  to 
their  agency.  In  tliis  case,  tradition  represents  them  as  having 
made  these  passages  to  store  their  plunder,  and  keej)  their 
captives.  Twenty  miles  from  the  sea,  forsooth  !  Hence  the 
vulgar  title  of  Buche  de'  Saracini,  or  "  the  Saracens'  Dens.'' 


KTRUSCA.N    MAKIXE    DKITi'. 


CHAPTER    XLIV. 

YOLTEREA. — ]  'OLA  TERR^i:. 
The  Museum. 

Qiial  di  pennel  fu  maestro  o  di  stile 

Clie  ritraesse  I'ombre  e  gli  atti  clie  ivi 
;Mirar  farieuo  iino  'ngegno  sottile  ? — Dante. 

Aliratur,  facilesque  oculos  fert  omnia  circum 

>Eneas,  capiturque  locis  ;  et  sin^rula  lajtus 

Exquiritque  auditque  virum  monimenta  ijriorum. — Virgil. 

So:me  consolation  for  the  loss  of  the  tombs  which  liave  been 
opened  and  reclosed  at  Yolterra  is  to  be  derived  from  the 
Museum,  to  which  their  contents  for  the  most  part  have  been 
removed.  Here  is  treasured  up  the  accumulated  sepulchral  spoil 
of  a  century  and  a  half.  The  collection  was  in  great  part  formed 
by  Monsignor  Guarnacci,  a  prelate  of  Yolterra,  and  has  since 
received  large  additions,  so  that  it  may  now  claim  to  be  one  of 
the  most  valuable  collections  of  Etruscan  antiquities  in  the 
world.^     Yaluable,  not  in  a  marketable  sense,  for  a  dozen  of  the 


^  Tlie  excavations  at  Volteria  were  com- 
menced about  1728,  in  consequence  of  the 
interest  excited  by  the  publications  of 
Demjjster  and  Buonarroti.  Tliey  were  con- 
tinued for  more  than  thirty  years  ;  and 
such  multitudes  of  urns  were  brought  to 
light  that  they  were  used  as  building  ma- 
teriak.  It  wa.s  seeing  them  lie  about  in 
all  directions  that  first  excited  Gori's 
curiosity,  and  led  him  to  the  study  of 
Etruscan  antiquities.     Even  in  1743,  he 


said  that  so  many  urns  had  been  disco- 
vered in  the  last  three  years,  that  the 
Jtluseum  of  Yolterra  sui-passed  every  other 
in  Etruscan  relics  (Mus.  Etrus.  III.  p. 
92);  though  it  was  not  till  1761  that 
]^[onsignor  Guarnacci  presented  his  collec- 
tion to  the  city.  After  that  time  interest 
flagged  in  Etruscan  antiquities,  but  of  late 
years  it  has  revived,  and  excavations  have 
been  carried  on  briskly,  ciiicfly  by  mem- 
bers of  the  Cinci  and  Inghirami  families. 


CHAP.  xLiv.]  THE    ETEUSCAN    MUSEUM.  161 

Vulcian  vases  and  niirrors  in  the  Gref:forian  jNIuseum  ■would 
l^ui'cliase  the  contents  of  any  one  of  its  nine  or  ten  rooms  ;  and 
the  collection  at  Munich,  or  that  in  the  British  Museum,  Avould 
fetch  more  dollars  in  the  market  than  the  entire  Museum  of 
Volterra,  with  the  Palazzo  Pubhlico  to  boot.  But  for  the  light 
they  throw  on  the  manners,  customs,  religious  creed,  and  tradi- 
tions of  the  ancient  Etruscans,  the  storied  urns  of  Volterra  are 
of  infinitely  more  value  than  the  choicest  vases  ever  moulded 
1)}'  the  hand  of  Eucheir,  or  touched  by  the  pencil  of  Eugrammos, 
The  latter  almost  invariably  bear  scenes  taken  from  the  mythical 
cj'cle  of  the  Greeks,  and,  with  rare  exceptions,  throw  no  light  on 
the  history,  or  on  the  iinier  life  of  that  people,  or  of  the 
Etruscans.  The  urns  of  Volterra,  Chiusi,  and  Perugia,  on  the 
other  hand,  are  more  genuine — native  in  conception  and  execu- 
tion, bearing  subjects  of-every  day  life,  as  well  as  of-every  day 
death,  illustrative  of  Etruscan  usages  and  religious  beliefs ; — often 
indeed  exhibiting  scenes  from  the  Greek  m3'thology,  but  treated 
in  a  native  manner,  and  accordhig  to  Etruscan  traditions.  Thus 
the  Museum  of  Volterra  is  a  storehouse  of  facts,  illustrative  of 
the  civilisation  of  ancient  Etruria.  I  cannot  agree  with  Maffei, 
that  "  he  who  has  not  been  to  Volterra  knows  nothing  of  Etruscan 
figured  antiquit}'  "  " — this  is  too  like  the  unqualified  boastmgs  of 
the  other  Peninsula.  He  was  a  townsman  of  Volterra,  and  his 
evidence  ma}^  be  suspected  of  partiahty.  Yet  it  may  fairly  be 
said,  that  this  Museum  is  fully  as  instructive  as  any  other  collec- 
tion of  Etruscan  antiquities  in  Italy  or  elsewhere,  and  that  in 
this  respect  Volterra  yields  in  interest  to  no  other  Etruscan  site. 

The  Museum  has  hitherto  been  contained  in  the  Palazzo 
Pubhlico  of  Volterra,  where  it  was  crammed  into  nine  or  ten 
small  chambers,  but  at  the  beginning  of  1877,  it  was  transferred, 
together  with  the  Librar}',  to  another  and  more  suitable  building, 
where  the  monuments,  newl}^  arranged  by  Signer  A.  Cinci,  sou  of 
the  gentleman  to  whose  researches  on  this  site  antiquarian  science 
is  so  much  indebted,  are  now  exhibited  to  greater  advantage. 

I  do  not  i^ropose  to  lead  the  reader  through  the  several  rooms 
of  the  Museum  in  succession,  and  to  describe  the  articles  seriatim; 
nor  do  I  pretend  to  give  him  every  detail  of  those  I  notice;  it  will 
suffice  to  call  his  attention  to  those  of  greatest  interest,  pointing 
out  their  subjects  and  characteristic  features ;  assuring  him  that 
not  a  single  visit,  or  even  two  or  three,  will  suffice  to  make  him 

-  ilaffei,  Osserv.  Letter.  V.  p.  315.  Tlie  but  sixty  urns  ;  now  it  Las  more  than  four 
remark  w;is  made  when  the  Museum  had       hundred. 

VOL.    II.  M 


162  VOLTEEEA.-The  Museum.  [chap.  xliv. 

aequainted  with  tlie  Museum,  l)Ut  that  continued  study  -will  only 
tend  to  develop  new  facts  and  sujiply  him  with  fresh  sources  of 
interest. 

The  urns,  of  which  there  are  said  to  he  more  than  four  hundred, 
are  sometimes  of  the  local  rock  called  panchina,  but  more  gene- 
rally of  alabaster,  which  is  only  to  be  quanied  in  this  neighbour- 
hood. Thus  no  doubt  can  be  entertained  of  their  native  and 
local  character."^  They  are  miniature  sarcoiihagi,  resembling 
those  of  Tarquinii  and  Toscanella  in  everything  but  material  and 
size;  being  intended  to  contain  not  the  entire  body,  but  merely 
the  ashes  of  the  deceased,  a  thml  of  the  dunensions  suffices, — 

Mors  sola  fatetur 
Quantula  sunt  hominum  corpuscula. 

These  "  ash-chests  "  are  rarely  more  than  two  feet  in  length  ; 
so  that  they  merit  the  name,  usually  applied  to  them,  of  urnlets 
—  urnette.  Most  have  the  effigy  of  the  deceased  recumbent  on 
the  lid.  Hence  we  learn  something  of  the  physiognomy  and 
costume  of  the  Etruscans  ;  though  we  should  do  wrong  to  draw 
inferences  as  to  their  symmetrv  from  the  stunted  distorted  figures 
often  presented  to  us.  The  equahty  of  women  in  the  social  scale 
of  Etruria  may  also  be  learned  from  the  figures  on  these  urns. 
It  is  evident  that  no  inferior  respect  was  paid  to  the  fair  sex 
when  dead,  that  as  much  labour  and  expense  were  bestowed  on 
their  sepulchral  decorations  as  on  those  of  their  lords.  In  fact, 
it  has  generally  been  remarked  that  the  tombs  of  women  are  more 
liighly  ornamented  and  richly  furnished  than  those  of  the  opposite 
sex.  Their  equality  may  perhaps  be  learned  also  from  the 
tablets  Avliich  so  many  hold  open  in  their  hands,  which  seem  to 
intimate  that  they  were  not  kept  in  ignorance  and  degradation, 
but  were  educated  to  be  the  companions  rather  than  the  slaves  of 
the  men.  Xay — if  we  may  judge  froiu  these  urns,  the  Etruscan 
ladies  had  the  advantage  of  their  lords ;  for  whereas  the  latter 
are  generally  represented  reclining  in  luxurious  indolence,  with 

^  Tliisj3anc7a'/ia  is  an  arenaceous  tufo  of  these   xims  may  be    the  work   of   Greeks 

aqueous  formation,  containing  marine  sub-  settled  at  Volterra,  after  its  conquest  by 

stances.     It  is  of  a  ^varm  yellow  hue,  more  the  Romans  (ilon.  Etrus.  I.  p.  541)  ;  but 

or  less  reddish.     The  alabaster  quarries  are  such  a  supposition  is  unnecessar}',  inasmuch 

at  Spicchiajola,   3   miles   distant,  and   at  as  the  Hellenic  mythology  was  well  known 

Ulignano,  5  or  6  miles  from  Volterra,  both  to  the  Etruscans  ;  and  the  style  of  art  of 

in  the  Val  d'  Era.     A  few  of  the  Etruscan  these    urns,    and    the    treatment    of  the 

urns  are  of  traTertine,  which  is  found  at  subjects,  having  a  thoroughly  native  cha- 

Pignano,  6  miles  to  the  east,  in  the  same  racter,  are  quite  oppossd  to  this  view, 
valley.     Inghirami,  indeed,  suggests  that 


CHAP.  xLiv.]         THE    ASH-CHESTS    OF    VOLTEREA.  163 

cliaplet  around  tlicir  brows,  torque  about  their  neck,  and  i\  pJilala, 
or  the  more  debauched  rhyton  in  one  hand,  with  sometimes  a 
wine-jug  in  the  other ;  the  women,  though  a  few  seem  to  have 
been  too  fond  of  creature  comforts,  are,  for  the  most  part,  guilt- 
less of  anything  bej'ond  a  fan,  an  egg,  a  i)omegranate,  a  mirror, 
or  it  may  be  tablets  or  a  scroll.  Though  the  Etruscan  fair  ones 
were  not  all  Tanaquils  or  Begoes,  the}'  were  probabl}'  all  educated 
• — at  least  those  of  the  higher  orders.  Let  them  not,  however, 
be  suspected  of  cerulean  tendencies — too  dark  or  deep  a  hue  was 
clearly  not  in  fashion  ;  for  the  ladies  who  have  the  tablets  in  one 
hand,  generally  hold  a  pomegranate,  the  emblem  of  fertility,  in 
the  other,  to  intimate  that  while  their  minds  were  cultivated, 
their  domestic  duties  were  not  neglected — an  interpretation 
which  I  think  may  fairl}^  be  X3ut  on  the  union  of  the  tablets  and 
pomegranates  in  the  hands  of  these  fair  Etruscans.* 

It  has  been  questioned  whether  these  articles  really  represent 
tablets,  but  all  doubt  on  that  point  is  removed  by  an  m'n  in  this 
very  collection,  where  a  lady  is  portrayed  with  a  pair  of  these 
objects  painted  black,  on  Avhich  a  legend  is  scratched  in  Etruscan 
characters.^ 

On  these  urns  the  female  figures  are  always  decently  draped, 
while  the  men  are  generall}^  but  half  clad.  Most  of  the  figures 
and  reliefs  were  originally  coloured  and  gilt,  but  few  now  retain 
more  than  \evy  faint  traces  of  such  decoration. 

As  to  the  reliefs  on  the  urns,  it  may  be  well  to  consider  them 
in  two  classes  ;  those  of  purely  Etruscan  subjects,  and  those 
which  illustrate  well-known  mythological  legends  ;  though  it  is 
.sometimes  difficult  to  pronounce  to  which  class  a  particular 
monument  belongs.     AVe  will  first  treat  of  the  latter. 


■*  See  Micali,  Ital.   av.   IJom.   tav.  43  ;  form  have  ever  Leen  discovered ;  and  it  Ls 

Ant.  Pop.  Ital.  tav.  105,  for  an  illustration  difficult  to  believe  that  an  article  so  fre- 

of  this  fact — a  lady  of  the  Ctecina  family,  quently   represented    on    Etruscan    urns, 

with    tablets   and   a   pomegranate.      That  would  never  have  been  found  in  tombs,  if 

■\\Titcr  takes  this  fruit,  which  was  sacred  to  it  had  been  of  metal,   like  other  ancient 

Proseriiine,   to  indicate  that  the  lady  in  miirors.     That  the  tablets  of  the  ancients 

fjucstion  placed  herself  under  the  special  were  of  this  form  is  well  known.     A  proof 

protection  of  the  Queen  of  Hades.      I  may  of  this  Ls  i)resented  by  a  pair  of  hinged 

possibly  be  mistaken   in  my  interpretation  tablets  of  ivory,   discovered  in  the  recent 

of  the  tablets,  which  may  have  allusion  to  c.^cavations    on    the   Esquiline,    and   now 

domestic  duties,  and  may  indicate  that  the  preserved  in  the  Etruscan  JIuseum  of  the 

dame  who  holds  them  was  a  good  house-  Capitol.     It  is  probable  that  these  tablets  — 

wife,  and  took  careful  note  of  her  e.xpen.ses.  tahuUc,   2^ayiUares—\vere    thin    plates    of 

*  Mieali   (Ant.    Pop.   Ital.   III.    p.    180)  wood,  or  of  bone,  coated  with  wax,  which 

takes  these  tablets  to  be  a  mirror  in  the  will   account  for    no    specimens    of  them 

form   of  a  book.     But  no  mirrors  of  this  having  been  found  in  Etruscan  sepulchres. 

M  2 


164  YOLTEEEA.— The  MusEUii.  [chap.  xliv. 

It  has  been  truly  remarked,  that  from  Etruscan  urns  might  be 
formed  a  series  of  the  most  celebrated  deeds  of  the  mythical 
cycle,  from  Cadmus  to  Ulysses.  Many  links  in  such  a  chain 
might  be  fm-nished  by  the  INIuseum  of  VolteiTa,  which  also  con- 
tains other  monuments  illustrative  of  the  doings  of  the  divinities 
of  Grecian  fable.     I  can  only  notice  the  most  striking. 

The  llape  of  Proseqiine. — The  gloomy  king  of  Hades  is  carry- 
ing off  his  struggling  bride  in  his  chariot ;  the  four  steeds,  lashed, 
to  a  gallop  b}-  a  tiniculent  Fury  with  outspread  wings,  who  acts  as 
charioteer,  are  about  to  pass  over  a  Triton,  whose  tail  stretches 
in  vast  coils  almost  across  the  scene.  In  another  relief  of  the 
same  subject,  a  snake  takes  the  place  of  the  sea-monster.''  In  a 
thu-d,  Cliarun,  with  a  serpent  in  each  hand,  stands  at  the  horses' 
heads. 

Aurora. — The  goddess  who  "gives  light  to  mortals  and  im- 
mortals," is  rising  in  her  chariot  from  the  waves,  in  which 
dolphins  are  sporting.  She  has  here  not  merely  a  pair  of  steeds, 
as  represented  by  Homer,  but  drives  four  in  hand,  as  Guido  has- 
depicted  her  in  his  celebrated  fresco." 

Cupid  and  Psyche. — One  relief  represents  the  god  of  love- 
embracing  his  bride  ;  each  having  but  a  single  wing.^ 

Actfeon  attacked  by  his  dogs. — This  scene  is  remarkable  only 
for  the  presence  of  a  winged  Fmy,  who  sits  by  with  torch- 
reversed.^  On  another  mil  Diana  with  a  lance  stands  on  one 
side,  and  an  old  man  on  the  other.^ 

Centaurs   and  Lapiths. — A  subject   often  repeated.     In  con- 


^  Illnstrated  hy  Ingliirami,  Jlon.  Etrus.  serjjent  may  be  explained  by  another  passage 

I.  tav.  9,  f>3  ;  ^^.  tav.  D.  5.  Gori,  I.  tab.  in  the  same  -Briter  (II.  157),  where  the 
78;  III.  cl.  3,  tab.  3.  This  is  a  common  "  ruler  of  souls  "drives  over  the  groaning 
subject  on  Etruscan  sepulchral  monument.«,  Enceladus — the  fish's- tail,  which  marks  a 
It  is  thought  to  sjTnbolise  the  descent  of  Triton,  having  ijrobaMy  been  substituted 
the  soul  to  the  other  world  ;  and  as  such  by  the  sculptor,  through  caprice  or  careless- 
would  be  a  peculiarly  appropriate  subject  ness,  for  the  serpent-tail  of  a  Giant. 

for  the  urns  of  young  females.     The  Fury  ''  Hom.  Odys.  XXIII.  246.     For  illus- 

driving  the  quadriya,  seems  an  illustration  trations,  see  Ingliirami,  I.  tav.  5.     ilicali,. 

of  that  passage  in  Claudian  (Rapt.  Proserp.  Ital.  av.  Rom.  tav.  25. 

II.  215),  where  Minerva  thus  addresses  ^  So  it  is  represented  by  Inghirami,  I., 
riuto—  tav.  52. 

qure    te     stimulis    facibusque  ^  Inghir.  I.  tav.  70.  This  may  be  Artemis 

profanis  herself,    who   was   sometimes  represented 

Eumenide-s     movere  ?     tu4     cur     sede  ^-i^i^  ^.jngg  i^j.  the  Greeks,  as  on  the  Chest 

relicta           _  of  C^^)sclus(Pausan.V.  19, 5),  and  frequently 

Andes       Tartareis      ccelum       incestare  ■,     \     -n^                     ■    j.           r     i  •  i    • 

1  .  .   ,  bv  the  Etruscans,  an  instance  of  which  is. 

quadrigisT  •         .      ,            '                      i-o     rx-  i   t 

sho'WTi  in  the  woodcut,  at  page  4/  <3,  of  \  ol.  1. 

But  this  monument  must  be  much  earlier  *  Inghir.  I.  tav.  Go.     Gori,  I.  tab.  122.. 

than  the   poem.      The   monster  and   the 


CHAP.  XLiv.]  UENS    WITH    nELLENIC    MYTHS.  16j 

formiUMvith  Ovid's  description,  some  of  the  monsters  are  striving 
to  escape  with  the  women  they  have  seized,  while  others  are 
liurling  roclvs  at  Theseus  and  his  fellows.^  From  the  numerous 
repetitions  of  certain  subjects  on  Etruscan  urns,  sometimes 
jirecisel}'  similar,  more  frequently'  with  slight  variations,  it  is 
evident  that  there  was  often  one  original  type  of  the  scene, 
probably  the  work  of  some  celebrated  artist. 

Perseus  and  Andromeda. — The  maiden  is  chained  to  the  walls 
of  a  cavern ;  the  fearful  monster  with  open  jaws  is  about  to 
devour  her,  when  Perseus  comes  to  her  rescue.  Contrary'  to  the 
received  legend,  she  is  here  draped.  Her  father  Cepheus  sits 
by,  horror-struck  at  the  impending  fate  of  his  daughter.  The 
jiresence  of  a  winged  demon — probably  the  Juno  of  the  maiden 
— is  an  Etruscan  peculiarity.  On  another  relief  of  the  same 
subject,  the  protecting  spirit  is  wanting ;  but  some  palm-trees 
mark  the  scene  to  be  in  Ethiopia.^ 

Bacchic  scene. — Two  naked  Satyrs,  each  bearing  a  draped 
Maenad  on  his  shoulder — a  subject  not  uncommon  on  archaic 
Greek  vases,  but  unique  on  an  Etruscan  urn. 

The  mythical  history  of  Thebes  has  afforded  numerous  subjects 
to  these  Etruscan  urns — perhaps  chosen  for  the  moral  of  retribu- 
tive justice  throughout  expressed. 

Cadmus. — Here  he  is  contending  Avith  the  dragon  of  ^Nlars, 
which  has  enfolded  one  of  his  companions  in  its  fearful  coils.'^ 
There  he  is  combating  the  armed  men  who  sprung  from  the  teeth 
of  the  dragon  which  Minerva  ordered  him  to  sow — his  only 
weapon  being  the  plough  with  which  he  had  opened  the  furrows. 
This  scene,  however,  will  apply  to  Jason,  as  well  as  to  Cadmus, 
for  the  former  is  said  to  have  sown  half  the  teeth  of  the  same 
dragon,  and  to  have  reaped   the   same  fruits.     This  is   a  very 

-  Ovid.  jMet.  XII.  223  et  scq.     Gori,  I.  meneement  of  the  Empire,  and  was  brought 

tab.  152,  153  ;  III.  cl.  3,  tab.  1,  2.  to  Rome  to  feed  tbe  appetite  of  tliat  people 

'  Perseus  in  the  one   case   has  all   liis  for  the   marvellous.      Its  dimensions  are 

attributes — inlcus,  talaria,  harpc,  and  Gov-  chronicled  by  Pliny.     N.  H.  IX.  i  ;  Mela, 

goncion — in  the  other,  the  last  two  only.  I.  11  ;  cf.  Strab.  I.  \}.  43  ;  XVI.  j).  759. 
Gori,  I.  tab.  123  ;  III.  c.  13,  tab.  1.     In-  Another  urn  represents  Perseus,  with  the 

ghirami,  I.  tav.  55,  56.     Ovid  (Met.  IV.  goryoneioti  in  his  hand,  attacked  by  two 

690)  represents  both   the  parents  of  the  warriors  ;  a  female  genius  steps  between 

nia'den  as  present.     It  may  have  been  so  him  and  his  pursuers.     Ingliir.  I.  tav.  5-1. 
in  the  original  scene  which  was  the  type  of  ••  Inghir.  I.  tav.  62,  p.  519.    Inghirami 

these  reliefs,  and  the  Juno  may  bean  Etrus-  (I.  p.   657)  offers  a  .second  interpretation 

can  version  of  the  mother.     The  scene  of  of  this   scene — that   it  may  be  Adrastus 

this  exploit  of  Perseus  is  said  to  have  been  slaying  the  sei-pent  of  Neniea,  and  that  the 

at  Joppa,  in  proof  of  uhich  the  skeleton  of  figure  in  its  coils  is  the  young  Opheltes, 

the  monster  was  shown  there  at  the  com-  Gori,  I.  tab.  156. 


166  YOLTEREA.— The  Museum.  [chap,  .\i.iv. 

common  subject  on  Etruscan  urns,  especially  on  those  of  terra- 
cotta.^ 

Dirce  tied  to  the  ^vild  bull  by  Amphion  and  Zethus. — A  very 
rare  subject  on  Etruscan  urns. 

(Kdipus  and  the  Sphinx. — The  son  of  Laius  is  solving  the 
riddle  put  to  him  by 

"  That  sad  inexplicable  beast  of  prey,"' 

■whose  "  man-devouring  "  tendencies  are  seen  in  a  human  skull 
beneath  her  paws.  A  Fur}-  with  a  torch  stands  behind  the 
monster.^ 

(Edipus  slaying  Laius. — He  has  dragged  his  father  from  his 
chariot,  and  thrown  him  to  the  earth ;  and  is  about  to  plunge  his 
sword  into  his  bod}-,  heedless  of  the  warning  of  a  Juno,  who  lays 
her  hand  on  his  shoulder,  as  if  to  restrain  his  fury.  Another 
winged  demon,  whose  brute  ears  mark  him  as  allied  to  "Charun," 
stands  by  the  horses'  heads." 

Amphiaraus  and  Eriphyle. — In  some  of  these  scenes  a  woman, 
reclining  on  her  couch,  is  thought  to  represent  the  treacherous 

"  Eriphyle,  that  for  an  ouche  of  gold. 
Hath  privily  unto  the  Grekis  told 
"\^'here  that  her  husband  hid  him  in  a  place, 
For  which  he  had  at  Thebis  sory  grace." 

For  behind  her  stands  a  figure,  thought  to  be  Polyneices,  with, 
the  necklace  of  Harmonia  in  his  hand,  with  which  he  had  bribed 
her  ;  and  on  the  other  side  is  a  man  muffled,  as  if  for  a  journey, 
who  is  supposed  to  represent  Amphiaraus.^ 

*  Lanzi    took    this   scene   to    represent  collection  of  such  antiquities.     There  are 

Jason  ;  Inghirami  referred  it  to  Cadmns  ;  several  of  it  in  the  British  Museum.     For 

Passeri  and  AVinckelinann  to  Ecliethis,  or  illustrations,    see   Dempster,   Etnir.    Reg. 

Echetlseus,  the  mysterious  rustic  who,  in  tab.  64  ;  Inghir.  I.  tav.  63,  64  ;  VI.  tav. 

the  l)attle  of  Marathon,   with  his  plougli  L.  3.     Gori,  I.  tab.  157. 
alone  made  fearful  slaughter  of  the  Persians  "  The    subject    is    repeated,    with   the 

(Pausau.    I.    32,    5  ;    eft    I.    15,   3).     See  omission  of  the  skull.     Inghir.  I.  tav.  67, 

Inghir.  Mon.  Etr.   I.  pp.  402,  527  et  acq.  68. 

Brann    doubts   if   the    instrument    in    the  '   Inghir.    I.   tav.    QQ.     (lori.   III.  cl.  4, 

hands  of  the  unarmed  man  be  a  plough,  tab.  21,  1.     Gerhard  takes  this  figure  to 

and  takes  the  figure  to  represent  Charun  be  Mantus,  the  king  of  the  Etruscan  Hades, 

himself,  or  one  of  his  infernal  attendants,  Gottheit.  d.  Etrus.  p.  63,  taf.  YI.  2. 
who  is  about  to  take  possession  of  one  of  '^    Inghir.  I.  tav.  19,  20,  74-77,  pp.  182 

the  warriors  who  is  slain.   Ann.  Inst.  1S37,  ft  seq.     Micali,    Ital.   av.    Rom.   tav.  36. 

2,   p.   204.     This  scene,   and   the  mutual  Inghirami  follows  Lanzi  in  interpreting  thi.s 

slaughter  of  the  Theban  lirothers,  are  the  scene  as  the  i)arting  of  Amphiaraus  and 

most  common  of  all  represented  on  Etruscan  Eriphyle.     Gori  (II.  j).  262)  took  it  for  a 

monuments,   and  will   Ijc  found  in  every  version  of  the  final  parting-scene  so  often 


CHAP.  xLiv.]        MYTHS    OF    THE    THEBAN    CYCLE.  167 

The  Seven  before  Tliebes. — There  are  three  urns  witli  tliis 
subject.  One,  which  rei)resents  the  assault  of  Capaneus  on  the 
Electrian  Gate  of  Thebes,  is  ver}'  remarkable.  The  moment  is 
chosen  when  the  hero,  wlio  has  defied  the  power  of  Jove,  and  has 
endeavoured  to  scale  "  the  sacred  walls,"  is  struck  by  a  thunder- 
bolt, and  falls  headlong  to  the  earth  ;  his  ladder  also  breaking 
with  him.  The  amazement  and  awe  of  his  comrades  are  well 
expressed.  The  gate  of  the  city  is  evidently  an  imitation  of  the 
ancient  one  of  Volterra,  called  Porta  all'  Arco  ;  for  it  is  repre- 
sented with  the  three  mysterious  heads  around  it,  precisely  in 
the  same  relative  positions.^  In  the  other  two  urns  Cai:)aneus  is 
wanting,  though  an  assault  on  the  gate  is  re2)resented  ;  but  the 
original  type  is  still  e^•ident,  though  the  three  heads  are  trans- 
ferred to  the  battlements  above,  and  are  turned  into  those  of 
Avarriors  resisting  the  attack  of  the  besiegers.  In  one  of  these 
scenes  a  woman,  probably  Antigone,  is  looking  out  of  a  small 
Avindow  by  the  side  of  the  gate.  And  in  both,  the  principal 
figure  among  the  besiegers  grasps  a  severed  head  by  the  hair, 
and  is  about  to  hurl  it  into  the  city.^ 

The  boy  Opheltes,  or  Archemorus,  squeezed  to  death  by  a 
huge  serpent. 

Polyneices  and  Eteocles. — The  fatal  combat  of  the  Theban 
Brothers  is  a  subject  of  most  frequent  occurrence  on  Etruscan 


represented  on  Etruscan  monuments,  ■with-  finem.     Pausan.  IX.  8,  7.     The  subject  of 

out  any  reference  to  Greek  mythology.     It  Capaneus  has  been  found  also  on  Etruscan 

has   also  been   regarded   as  the    death  of  scarahcci.     One  of  them   bears  tlie  name 

Aleestis.     Ann.    Inst.    1S42,   i^p.   40-7,—  "  Capne  "  in  Etruscan  characters.     Bull. 

Grauer.  Cf.  Men.  Ined.  Inst.  III.  tav.  40.  Inst.  1834.  p.  118. 

B.     The   parting  of  Ami>hiaraus  and   his  ^  Inghir.   I.    tav.    88,  90  ;  Micali,   Ital. 

wife  was  one  of  the  scenes  which  adorned  av.  Horn.  tav.  30,  31.      Gori,   I.  tab.  132. 

the  celebrated  Chest  of  C^-pselus.     Pausan.  Inghirami   (I.   j).   6S1)   thinks  the  female 

A'.  17,  7.  at  the  window  is  intended   for  Antigone 

^  Inghir.   I.  tav.  87.     Micali,  Ital.  av.  counting  the  besiegers.     He  remarks  that 

Ivom.   tav.  29  ;  Ant.   Pop.   Ital.  tav.   108.  both    Greeks  and    Romans  were  wont   to 

Though  the  gate  in  this  scene  is  a  perfect  hurl  the  heads  of  their  slaughtered  foes 

arch,  there  are  no  voussoirs  expressed.    The  into  beleaguered  cities,  in  order  to  infuse 

freedom  and  vigour  of  design  in  this  relief  terror  into  the  besieged  ;    an  instance    of 

show  it  to  be  of  no  early  date.      Inghirami  which  is  seen  on  Trajan's  Column,  where 

(I.  p.  678  ct  seq.)  infers  this  from  the  pre-  Roman  soldiers  are  casting  the  heads  of  the 

sence  of  warriors  on  horseback,  for  such  Dacians  into  their  city.     From  this  he  un- 

are    never    described    by    Homer.      But  necessarily  infers  that  these  urns  are  of 

mounted  warriors  appear  in  monuments  of  the  same  date  as  that  celebrated  column, 

the  highest  antiquity.     The  date  of  these  The  style  of  art  proves  them  to  be  of  no 

urns  is  more  safely  determined  by  the  style  early  period  ;   one  of  them  is  among  the 

of  art.     For  descriptions  of  this  scene  see  most   beautiful    urns    yet    discovered    at 

JEschyl.  Sept.  ad  Theb.  423-456,  and  tlie  Volterra. 
prolix  yarn  of  Statins,  TUeb.  X.  828— ad 


168  YOLTEEPtA.— The  HusEor.  [chap.  xliv. 

urns,  and  there  are  many  instances  in  this  Museum.  They  are 
generall}'  represented  in  the  act  of  giving  each  other  the  death- 
wound.  A  Charun,  or  a  Fmy,  who  sits  hehind  them,  puts  one 
hand  on  the  shoukler  of  each.- 

The  Trojan  War  has  also  furnished  scenes  for  some  of  these 
urns. 

The  Rape  of  Helen. — A  scene  often  repeated.  "  The  faire 
Tpidarid  lasse,"  is  hurried  on  board  a  "  brazen-beaked  ship  " — 
attendants  are  carrying  vases  and  other  goods  on  board — 

—  crateres  auro  solidi,  captivaque  vestis 
Congeritur — 

all  is  hurry  and  confusion — but  Paris,  marked  by  his  Phrygian 
cap,  is  seated  on  the  shore  in  loving  contemplation  of 

'■  the  face  that  launched  a  thousand  ships, 
And  burnt  the  topmost  towers  of  Ilium."'  ^ 

Sometimes  the  fond  pair  are  represented  making  their  escape  in 
a  quadriga.^ 

The  Sacrifice  of  Iphigeneia. — The  maiden  is  borne  to  the  altar 
by  Ulysses  and  Diomede,  followed  b}^  two  women  and  her  father. 
The  priestess  stands  with  sword  upraised  for  the  sacrifice,  when 
a  Lasa  interposes  and  substitutes  a  kid  or  a  fawn  in  her  place — 
the  "  ram  caught  in  the  thicket  "  of  the  earlier  legend.^ 

Philoctetes,  "  the  sldlful  archer,"  sitting  in  a  cave  in  Lemnos, 
where  he  was  left  Avhen  on  his  way  to  Troy,  having  been  bitten 
in  the  foot  by  a  serj^ent.^ 

On  another  urn  he  is  seen  issuing  from  his  cave,  quiver  in 
hand,  to  meet  Ulysses  and  Diomede,  or  it  may  be  P3'rrhus,  who 
have  landed  from  their  ships  to  announce  that  the  oracle  had 
declared  that  Troy  could  not  fall  until  the  arrows  whicli  Hercules 
had  bequeathed  to  Philoctetes  were  brought  against  her. 

Telephus  in  the  Grecian  camp  before  Tro}',  seeking  to  be 
healed  of  the  wound  he  had  received  from  Achilles. 

2  Gqri,  I.  tab.  133.  Ingbirami,  I.  lav.  as  the  fate  of  Auges  and  her  son  Telephus. 
92,  93;  VI.  tav.  Y.  2.  In  the  very  similar  *  Gori,  III.  cl.  3,  tab.  7. 
rei)resentation  of  tliis  combat  on  the  Chest  *  One  urn  is  entitled,  "The  Self-Sacrifice 
of  Cypselus,  a  female  demon  or  Fate,  with  of  Iphigeneia,"  showing  a  wom:m  lying  on  a 
the  name  "Ker"  inscribed,  having  the  couch  with  a  sword  in  her  body.  But  this 
fangs  and  claws  of  a  wild  beast,  was  in-  appears  a  misnomer,  for  it  more  i>robably 
troduced  behind  one  of  the  brothers.  represents  the  death  cf  Clytremnestra,  with 
Pausan.  V.  19,  6.  the   two  avengers    in   the   act  of  slaying 

3  Gori  (.Mus.  Etrus.  I.  tab.  138,  139  ;  ^gisthus. 

III.  class.  3,  tab.  5)  interj^jrets  this  scene  "^  Horn.  II.  II.  721. 


CHAP.  XLiv.]         MYTHS    OF    THE    TEOJAN    CYCLE.  KiO 

Penthesileia,  Queen  of  tlie  Amazons,  oflfering  her  assistance  to 
Piiani,  wlio  receives  her  sitting  on  his  couch. 

Buttle  of  the  Greeks  and  Amazons. — This,  a  favourite  subject 
on  the  sarcophagi  of  Corneto,  is  rarely  found  on  the  cinerary 
lu-ns  of  Volterra.  One  urn,  however,  bears  a  spirited  repre- 
sentation of  this  combat.  The  central  group  of  a  mounted 
Amazon  contending  with  a  Greek  on  foot  is  admirable  ;  and 
there  is  much  grace  in  the  figure  of  the  wounded  heroine  on  the 
ground,  to  whom  another  is  offering  water  to  allay  her  thirst. 
At  each  end  of  the  scene  stands  a  wunged  Lasa,  holding  a  horse ; 
the  repose  of  her  figure  contrasting  strongly  with  the  passionate 
enei'gy  of  the  combatants. 

One  scene  represents  the  death  of  Polites,  so  beautifully  de- 
scribed by  Alrgil."  The  youth  has  fled  to  the  altar  for  refuge, 
the  altar  of  his  household  gods,  by  which  stand  his  venerable 
l^arents  ;  but  the  relentless  P^'rrhus  rushes  on,  thirsting  for  his 
blood.  Priam  imi:)lores  mercy  for  his  son — even  his  guardian 
genius  steps  in  to  his  aid,  and  holds  out  a  wheel  to  his  grasp. 
The  urn  tells  no  more,  but  leaves  the  catastrophe — ifinis  Pr'iami 
fatovum — to  the  imagination  of  the  beholder.*^ 

A  scene  very  similar  to  this  shows  Paris,  wdien  a  shepherd,  ere 
he  had  been  rendered  effeminate  by  the  caresses  of  Helen, 
defending  himself  against  his  brothers,  wdio,  enraged  that  a 
stranger  should  have  carried  off  the  prizes  from  them  in  the 
public  games,  sought  to  take  his  life.  The  palm-leaf  he  bears 
in  his  hand,  as  he  kneels  on  the  altar  to  which  he  had  fled 
for  refuge,  tells  the  tale.  The  venerable  Priam  comes  up  and 
recognises  his  son.  A  Juno,  or  guardian  spirit,  steps  between 
him  and  his  foes.^ 

^  Yir-;.  ^n.  II.  526—558.  Achilles  was  slain.— Pausan.  T.  13,  9.     But 

**  Gori,   Mus.  Etrus.  I.  tab.    171;   III.  in  most  of  these  scenes  the  Juno  is  mani- 

■cl.  4,  tab.   1(5,   17.     The    demon   in   tliis  festly  iirotccting  the   youth,    and   in  one 

scene  is   by  many  regarded   as   Nemesis.  instance  throws  her  arm  round  his  neck. 

Gori    interprets    this    scene    as    ' '  Sacra  Yet  in  others,  the  office  of  the  demon,  or 

Cabiria."  demons,  for  there  are  sometimes   two,   is 

'  Gori,  I.  tab.  174: ;  III.  class.  3,  tav.  9  ;  more  equivocal  ;  and  they  have  been  inter- 

cl.    4,   tab.    18,   19.     Another  version   is  preted  as  Furies  urging  on  the  brothers  of 

given  on  the  urn  numbered  384,  which  is  Paris  to   take   revenge.     Mus.   Chius.    I. 

of  superior  art.     Tliis  is  a  scene  frefjucntly  tav.  81.     In  such  cases  the  scene  will  well 

occuiTing  on  Etruscan  urns  ;  and  is  found  admit    of  interpretation   as   the  death   of 

also  on   bronze    mirror-cases,   of  which   I  Ncoiitolcmus,  and  the  man  who  slays  him, 

have  seen  several  instances — two  now  in  M-ould  be  either  the  priest  of  the  temple 

the  British  Museum.     It  has  been  explained  (Pausan.  X.  24,  5),   cr  Machtereus  (Strub. 

as  the   death   of  Pyrrhus,  at  Delphi,    and  IX.   p.    421),    or  Orestes  (Virg.   JEn.   III. 

the  female  demon  is  supposed  to  represent  333),  though  Euripides  represents  him  not 

the  P.vthia,  at  whose  command  the  son  of  as  the  actual  murderer,  but  only  as  the 


170  YOLTEREA.— The  MrsEUir.  [chap.  xliv. 

Ulysses  and  the  Sirens  is  a  favourite  subject.  The  hero  is 
represented  hishetl  by  his  own  command  to  the  mast  of  his 
vessel,  yet  struggling  to  break  loose,  that  he  may  yield  to  the 
three  enchantresses  and  their  *'  warbling  charms."^ 

The  great  hero  of  Homeric  song  is  also  represented  in  the 
company  of  Circe — 

"  The  daughter  of  the  Sun,  whose  charmed  cup 
"Whoever  tasted  lost  his  upright  shape  ; " 

for    his    companions,    her   victims,    stand    around,    their    heads 
changed 

"  Into  some  brutish  form  of  wolf  or  bear, 
Or  ounce,  or  tiger,  hog,  or  bearded  goat, 
All  other  parts  remaining  as  the}'  were." 

Ulysses  slaying  the  suitors  with  his  arrows.  His  faithful 
nurse  Eurycleia  stands  behind  him,  and  one  of  the  guilty  Avomen 
of  Penelope  rushes  to  an  altar  to  escape  the  vengeance  of  her 
lord.     A  Fate,  as  usual,  is  present  at  the  slaughter. 

The  death  of  Clytremnestra, — This  is  a  favourite  subje'ct, 
chosen,  doubtless,  as  illustrative  of  the  doctrine  of  retribution. 
In  one  scene  the  mariticide  is  reclining  on  her  couch,  when 
Orestes  and  Pylades  rush  in  with  drawn  swords ;  one  seizes  her, 
the  other  her  paramour  .Egisthus,  and  a  winged  Fate  stands  by 
to  betoken  their  end.-  In  another,  the  r^ueen  lies  a  corpse  on 
her  bed,  and  the  avengers  are  returning  from  the  slaughter. 
But  the  most  remarkable  monument  is  a  large,  broken  urn,  on 
which  Orestes — "  Urste  " — is  rejiresented  in  the  act  of  slaj-ing 
his  mother,  "  Clutmsta,"  and  his  companion  is  putting  to  death 
.Fgisthus.  At  one  end  of  the  same  relief  the  two  friends, 
"  UnsTE  "  and  "Puluctue  "  (Pylades),  are  kneeling  on  an  altar, 
with  swords  turned  against  their  own  bosoms,  making  expiation, 
while  tlie  truculent,  brute-eared  "  Charux,"  with  his  fatal 
mallet  raised,  and  a  Fury  with  flaming  torch,  and  hissing 
serpent,  are  rising  from  the  abyss  at  their  feet.''     On  the  broken 

contriver   of    the    jjlot    to    slay    I'yrrhus.  ■'  ]\Iiculi,  Italia,  av.  lioiu.   tav.  47  ;  Ant. 

(Androm.  S91,  et  scq.  ;  1085,   ct  seq.     On  Fo]).    Ital.    tav.    109,    torn.    III.    p.    183; 

the  urn  by  •wiiich  Micali  (Ital.  av.  Iloiu.  In^^hirami,  Mon.  Etr.  VI.  tav.  A.  2;  Eaoul- 

tav.  48)  illustrates  this  scene,  the  Lasa  has  Kochette,  Men.   Ined.  jjI.  29  ;  Ann.  Inst  , 

an  eye  in  each  outspread  wing,  just  like  1837,  2,  i).  202 — Braun.      Greek   name.s 

tlie  marine  deity,  represented  in  the  wood-  are  by  no   means   expressed    on  Etruscan 

cut  at  the  head  of  this  chapter.  monuments  in  aa  uniform  mannei'.    On  one 

^  Gori,  I.  tab.  147.  mirror,  wliicli  represents  the  same  mythical 

-  Gori,  III.  cl.  3,  tab.  11,  2.  event  as   this   urn,    the   names   are   spelt 


cHAi'.  XLiv.J       MYTHS    OF    ULYSSES    AND    ORESTES.  171 

Iraginciit  adjoining  tliis  urn  is  a  -warrior  also  kneeling  on  an 
altar,  Avitli  two  other  figures  falling  around  him,  to  which  are 
attached  the  names  "  Acxs  "  and  "  Peiumnes."  ' 

Orestes  persecuted  by  the  Furies. — There  are  here  not  three 
only  of  these  avengeful  deities,  but  five,  armed  with  torches  or 
mallets,  attacking  the  son  of  Agamemnon,  Avho  endeavours  to 
defend  himself  with  his  sword.' 

Man}'  of  these  urns  bear  mythological  subjects  purely  native. 
The  most  numerous  class  is  that  of  marine  deities,  generally 
figured  as  women  from  the  middle  upwards,  but  with  fishes'  tails 
instead  of  legs — 

Desinit  in  piscem  mulier  formosa  supeme. 

A  few,  however,  are  represented  of  the  male  sex,  as  that  in  the 
woodcut  at  the  head  of  this  chapter.  These  beings  are  generally 
winged  also,  probabl}'  to  show  their  superhuman  power  and 
energy  ;  and  smaller  Avings  often  spring  from  their  temples — a 
common  attribute  of  Etruscan  divinities,  symbolical,  it  may  be, 
of  a  rapidity  and  power  of  intellectual  action,  far  transcending 
that  of  mortals.^  They  have  not  serpent-locks,  or  the  resem- 
blance of  their  heads  to  that  of  the  Greek  Medusa  would  be 
complete ;  but  they  have  sometimes  a  pair  of  snakes  knotted 
around  their  brows,  and  uprearing  their  crests,  just  like  those 
which  are  the  distinctive  mark  of  Egyptian  gods  and  monarchs. 
These  trifold  divinities  bear  sometimes  a  trident  or  anchor,  a 
rudder  or  oar,  to  indicate  their  dominion  over  the  sea — some- 
times a  sword,  or  it  ma}-^  be,  a  firebrand  or  a  mass  of  rock,  to 
show  their  might  over  the  land  also,  and  their  power  of  destruc- 

"Urusthe"'  and  "CLriUMSTA,"  (Gerhard,  p.  16G) — but  few  will  be  iDclined  to  reject 

Etrusk.  Spieg.  taf.  237);  and  on  another,  the  old-fashioned  interpretation  of  Ore.'^tcs 

"Urusthe"  and  "Clithcmustha  ;"  and  and  Clj-tjemnestra. 

a  fierce  demon,  named  "Kathcm,"  with  ■*  Inghir.  I.  tav.  43.     I^Iicali,  Ant.  Poji. 

huge  fangs,  and  hair  on  an  end,  st;inds  be-  Ital.    tav.   109.     There  are  some  kindred 

hind  the  avenger,  and  bi-andishes  a  serpent  scenes,  where  two  armed  men,  kneeling  on 

over  the  murderess's  head.     Gei'h.  Etrusk.  an  altar,  are  defending  them.selves  against 

Spieg.  taf.  238  ;  Gottheiten  der  Etrusker,  their  foes.     One  of  them  being  sometimes 

taf.  VI.  5,  pp.    11,  63  ;  Bull.  Inst.,  lSi2,  represented   with    a   human    head    in   his 

p.  47.     Gerhard  takes  this  demon  to  lie  a  hand,  .seems  intended  for  Perseus.     Gori, 

female,  and  equivalent  to  Mania.     A  totally  I.  t;ib.  150,  175;    Inghir.  I.  tav.  58,  59; 

ilifferent  inteqtretation  has  been  found  for  VI.  tav.  A.  5. 

this  urn.     Etrusco-Celts,  if  they  will,  may  ^  Inghir.   I.    tav.   25  ;   of.   Gori,   I.  tab. 

pronounce  the  inscriptions  to  be  choice  Irish,  151. 

and  may  hug  themselves  in  the  discovery  ^  The  wings  may  be  considered  an  Etnis- 

that  Urstc  means  "stop  the  slaughter  !" —  can  characteristic,  for  they  are  rarely  found 

t'lutmsta,  "  stop  the  pursuit  I " — Piiluctre,  attached  to  similar  figures  on  Greek  monu- 

"all  are  pri.«onei-s  I  • '   (Etruria  Celtic;!,  II.  ments. 


172  YOLTEREA.— The  Museoi.  [chap.  xliv. 

tion,  or  their  malignant  character ;  -wliich  they  further  disphxy  by 
brandishing  these  weapons  over  the  heads  of  their  victims. 
Thev  are  often  represented  with  a  torque  or  snakes'  tails  about 
their  necks.  Marine  deities  would  naturally  be  much  worshipped 
by  a  people,  whose  power  lay  greatly  in  their  commerce  and 
maritime  supremacy ;  and  accordingly  the  active  imaginations 
of  the  Etruscans  were  thus  led  to  sjanbolise  the  destructive 
agencies  of  nature  at  sea.  For  these  are  evidentl}-  beings  to  be 
propitiated,  whose  vengeance  is  to  be  averted ;  very  unlike  the 
gentle  power  to  which  the  Italian  sailor  now  looks  for  succour 
in  the  hour  of  peril — 

In  mare  irato.  in  subita  procella, 
Invoco  te,  nostra  benigna  Stella  ! 

It  is  highly  probable  that  these  sea-gods  vrere  of  Etruscan 
origin ;  yet  as  we  are  ignorant  of  their  native  appellations,  it 
may  be  well  to  designate  them,  as  is  generally  done,  by  the 
names  of  the  somewhat  analogous  beings  of  Grecian  mythology, 
to  which,  however,  they  do  not  answer  in  every  respect.  The 
females  then  are  usually  called  Scylla,"^  though  wanting  the 
l)eculiar  characteristic  of  that  monster,  who 

Pube  premit  rabidos  ingninibusque  canes. 

The  male  sea-divinities,  which  are  of  less  frequent  occurrence, 
are  commonly  called  Glaucus.^  On  one  urn  such  a  being  is 
enfolding  a  struggling  warrior  in  the  coils  of  each  tail.^  In 
another,  he  has  thus  entangled  two  figures  of  opposite  sexes,  and 
is  seizing  them  by  the  hair.^  One  of  these  deities,  illustrated  in 
the  woodcut  at  the  head   of  this  chapter,  has  an  eye  in  either 

^  Scylla,  with  the  Greeks,  seems  to  have  the  sky  or  the  surface  of  the  waves  assumes 

been  the  embodied  emblem  of  the  sea,  or  under  certain  conditions,    and   at  certain 

of  its  monsters  ;  and  she  thus  personifies  houi-s  of  the  day.     On  viewing  these  eflfects 

the  perils  of  a  maritime  life.     Ann.  Inst.,  of  light,  the  ijeople,  who  of  the  seven-hued 

1843,  p.  182.  rainbow  had  formed  Iris,  could  not  possibly 

^  Glaucus  is  very  rarely  represented  on  have  refrained  from  increasing  the  abundant 

ancient  works  of  art.     Xever  ha-s  he  been  series    of    their    creations,    and    A'eptune 

found  on  painted  vases — only  on  medals,  henceforth  counted  a  new  subject  in  his 

gems,  Etruscan  urns,    and   in  an  ancient  empire."    For  illustrations  of  Glaucus  and 

jjainting  in  the  Villa  Adriana.     Ann.  Inst.,  Scylla  see  Mon.  Inst.  III.  tav.  52,  53. 
1S43,  p.   184.     il.  Vinet,  who  writes  the  ^  Were  it  not  for  the  sex  of  the  monster 

article  cited,  regards  Glaucus  as  the  per-  this  scene  might  represent  the  companions 

Bonification  of  the  colour  of  the  sea  (pp.  of  Ulysses  encountering  Scylla  ;  or  it  may 

173,  181).     He  thinks  the  word  expressed  be  an  Etruscan  version  of  the  same  myth. 

"  that  clear  hue,  verging  on  green  or  blue,  Gori  (I.  tab.  148)  represents  it  as  a  female, 
but  in  which  white  predominates,   which  '  Micali,  Ital.  av.  Rom.  tav.  23. 


CHAP.  xLiv.]  ETRUSCAN    MARINE    DmNITIES  173 

wing,  a  symbol,  it  may  be,  of  all-searcJhing  power,  added  to  that 
of  ubiquitous  energy.-  A  third  bears  a  shield  on  his  arm,  and 
carries  his  cuirass  and  sword  on  his  long  fish-tail.  Another  of 
these  sea-gods,  similarly  winged,  but  without  the  eyes,  is  repre- 
sented carrying  off  a  naked  girl,  having  slain  the  warrior,  her 
protector. 

"When,  instead  of  fishes'  tails,  the  woman's  body  tenninates  in 
snakes,  she  is  commonly  called  Echidna,  the  sister  of  INIedusa 
and  the  Gorgons,  the  mother  of  Cerberus,  the  Hydra,  the 
Chimffira,  the  Sphinx,  and  other  mythical  monsters,  and  herself 

"  Stupendous,  nor  in  shape  resembling  aught 
Of  human  or  of  heavenly  ;  monstroiis,  fierce 
Echidna  ;  half  a  nymph,  with  eyes  of  jet 
And  beauty-blooming  cheeks  ;  and  half  again 
A  speckled  serpent,  terrible  and  vast. 
Gorged  with  blood-banquets  ;  trailing  her  huge  folds 
Deep  in  the  hollows  of  the  blessed  earth.  "^ 

Aldn  to  her  is  the  male  divinity,  the 

"  Typhon  huge,  ending  in  snaky  twine." 

already  treated  of  in  describing  the  tombs  of  Corneto.'^  He  is 
said  to  have   been  her   lover,   and    the  progenitor   of  all    those 

monsters, 

"  Horrible,  hideous,  and  of  hellish  race, 
Bom  of  the  brooding  of  Echidna  base." 

As  tlie  fish  is  emblematical  of  the  dej^ths  of  the  sea,  so  the 
serpent  would  seem  to  symbolise  those  of  the  land ;  and  we  shall 
probably  not  be  mistaken  in  regarding  these  snake-tailed  beings 
as  personifying  the  subterranean  powers  of  nature,  such  as  have 
to  do  with  fissures  and  caverns,  and  especially  such  as  regard 
volcanic  disturbances.^  That  these  destructive  agencies  should 
have  been   deified  in  a  land  which,  in  various  ages,  has  expe- 

"  Micali,  op.  cit.  tar.  24.     This  -nTiter  wing  of  a  Charun  interfering  in  a  battle- 

(Ant.  Pop.  Ital.  III.  p.  180)  regards  the  scene,  on  a  Volterran  urn,  from  the  tomb 

eye  in  the  wings  as  a  symbol  of  celerity  aud  of  the  Ctecinje,   now   in   the   jMu.seum   of 

foresight  ;  Inghinimi  (I.  p.  79),  of  circiim-  Paris.     Slicali,  op.  cit.  tav.  105  ;  Ital.  av. 

spection.     On  another  urn  in  tliis  Jluseuin,  Rom.  tav.  43. 

the  eye  is  represented  on  the  wing  of  a  ^  Hcsiod.  Theog.  295  et  scq. 

Chanin,  who  is  conducting  a  soul  to  tlie  ■*  See  vol.  I.  p.  329. 

other  world  (Micali,  op.   cit.  tav.  104,  1  ;  ^  In  a  cavern  under  a  Iiollow  rock  was 

Inghir.  I.  tav.   8) ;  and  on  another,  on  the  Echidna's  abode.     Hesiod.  Tlieog.  301.     It 

wing  of  a   Lasa,    or  Juno,   who   protects  is  well  cstahlished  that  Typhon,   and  the 

Paris  from  the  assaults  of  his  brothers  {ut  other  Giants  were,  in  the  Greek  mythology, 

tupra,  p.   17u).     It  is  found  also  on  the  symbols  of  volcanic  agencies. 


174  YOLTEEEA.— The  MusEUjr.  [chap.  xliv. 

rienced  from  tlieiu  tori'ible  catastrophes,  and  wliicli,  on  every 
liand,  bears  traces  of  tlieir  etfects,  is  no  more  than  might  be 
expected ;  and  their  rehitit)n  to  the  sepulchre  among  a  people 
"who  always  committed  their  dead  to  the  caverns  of  the  rock,  or 
to  the  bowels  of  the  earth,  will  be  readily  understood. 

Some  of  these  urns  show  the  heads  alone  of  tliese  wing-browed 
divinities,  Avhicli,  in  certain  cases,  degenerate  into  mere  masks. 
One  head,  with  serpents  tied  beneath  the  chin,  is  not  unlike 
Da  Vinci's  celebrated  ]Medusa  in  the  Florence  Gallery.  Other 
urns  bear  representations  of  dolphins  sporting  on  the  waves, 
marine-horses,  or  Jt'qyj^ocanqji,^ 

Et  quce  marmoreo  fert  monstra  sub  ajqiiore  pontus — 

snnbols,  it  may  be,  of  maritime  power,  but  more  probably  of  the 
l)assage  of  the  soul  to  another  state  of  existence ;  which  is 
clearly  the  case  where  one  of  these  monsters  bears  a  veiled 
figure  on  his  back.'' 

Other  twofold  existences  are  of  the  earth.  Centaurs,  of  both 
sexes,  not  combating  their  established  foes  the  LajiitliEe,  but 
forming  the  sole  or  chief  subject  in  the  scene  ;  sometimes  with 
wings  ;  sometimes  robed  with  a  lion's  skin,  and  holding  a  large 
bough.  Etruscan  centaurs,  be  it  observed,  especially  those  on 
early  monuments,  have  generally  the  fore-legs  of  a  man,  the  hind 
ones  only  of  a  horse.^  Like  the  sea-monsters,  the  centaur  may 
be  a  symbol  of  the  passage  of  the  soul.'' 

Griffons  are  also  favourite  subjects  on  these  urns.  That  they 
are  embodiments  of  some  evil  and  destructive  power,  is  evident 
in  tlieir  compound  of  lion  and  eagle.  And  thus  they  are  generally 
represented ;  now,  like  beasts  of  prey,  tearing  some  animal  to 
pieces  ;  now  overthrowing  the  Arimaspes,  who  sought  to  steal  the 
gold  they  guarded.^ 

^  The  idea  of  the  hippocampus  on  ancient  inents  that  it  had  a  conventional  relation 

monuments  was  probably  suggested  by  the  to  the  sepulchre.     Viryil   (.'En.    yi.    286) 

.singulai-  fish  of  that  name,  which  abounds  represents    Centaurs    stalled    with    other 

in  the  Mediterranean,  and  whose  skeleton  monsters,  at  the  gate  of  Hell — 

resembles  a  horse's  head  and  neck  placed  ^,     .       ••<••!  ^  i    i     i.     o    n 

.  ,  ,        .,       „       -r     ,  •     T^T     ,         T^  Centaun   in  fonlius   stabulant,    bcylhcnuo 
on  a  fish  s  tail.      See  Inghir.  Vl.    tav.    D.  biformc;    '^c 

2,  3.  ■'  '    ■ 

'  Inghir.    I.    tav.    G  ;    of.    Biaun,    Ann.  '  Inghir.    Mon.    Etrus.   I.   tav.    39,   41, 

Inst.  1837,  2,  p.  2(51.  42,  99.     Uori,  I.  tab.   154,  lot3  ;  III.  cl. 

^  So  the  Centaur  was  represented  in  early  3,  tab.  4.     The  Arimaspes  on  these  ums 

Greek  works — the  chest   of  Cypselus,   for  are   not   one-eyed,   as  represented   by  the 

instance.     Pausan.  V.  19,  7.  ancients.     Herod.   III.    116  ;  IV.   13,  27  ; 

'  It  is  evident  from  the  frequent  intro-  I'lin.  VII.  2  ;  Tausan.  I.  24,  G. 
duction  of  this  chimosra  into  funeral  monu- 


CHAP.  xLiv.]  SCENES    OF    ETRUSCAN    LIFE.  ITJ 

One  small  uni  has  the  legs  and  seat  of  a  couch  carved  in  relief 
on  its  front,  and  a  couple  of  small  birds  below,  apparently  picking' 
up  tlie  crumbs.  These  have  been  interpreted  as  "the  sacred 
fowls  of  Etruscan  divination  " — the  birds  from  whose  motions 
was  learned  the  will  of  the  gods."  But  to  me  they  seem  inserted, 
as  in  the  painted  tombs  of  Corneto,  merely  for  artistic  reasons,  to 
fill  the  vacant  space  beneath  the  banqueting-couch. 

The  reliefs  illustrative  of  p]truscan  life  are  the  most  interesting 
monuments  in  this  collection.  They  may  be  divided  into  two 
classes  ;  those  referring  to  the  customs,  pursuits,  and  practices  of 
the  Etruscans  in  their  ordinary  life,  and  those  which  have  a 
funereal  import.     It  is  not  always  easy  to  draw  the  distinction. 

To  commence  with  their  sports.  There  are  numerous  repre- 
sentations of  boar-hunts,  of  which  the  Etruscans  of  old  were  as 
fond  as  their  modern  descendants.  The  Tuscus  apcr,  though 
celebrated  in  ancient  times,  can  hardly  have  abounded  as  much 
as  at  present,  when  he  has  so  much  more  uncultivated  country 
for  his  range;  for  the  ^Maremma,  which  was  of  old  well  populated, 
is  now  to  a  great  extent  a  desert.  Some  of  these  scenes  may 
have  reference  to  Meleager  and  the  boar  of  Calydon,  or  to  the 
exploit  of  Hercules  with  the  fierce  beast  of  Erymanthus  ;  for  the 
subject  is  variously  treated.  Its  frequent  occurrence  on  urns,  as 
well  as  on  vases  and  in  painted  tombs,  shows  how  much  such 
sports  were  to  the  Etruscan  taste.^ 

Other  reliefs  represent  the  games  of  the  circus,  which  resembles 
that  of  the  Ptomaus,  having  a  spina,  surmounted  by  a  row  of 
cones  or  obelisks.  In  some  of  these  scenes  are  bull-fights ;  in 
others,  horse-races,  or  gladiatorial  combats.  We  know  that  the 
Romans  borrowed  the  two  latter  games  from  the  Etruscans.'^ 

These  urns,  though  not  being  of  early  date  they  can  hardly  be 
cited  as  proofs,  yet  tend  to  confirm  the  high  probability  that  the 
circus,  as  well  as  its  games,  was  of  Etruscan  origin.  We  know 
that  the  Eomans  had  no  such  edifices  before  the  accession  of 
Tar(pun,  the  first  of  the  Etruscan   dynasty,  who  built  the  Circus 

-  Inghir.  I.  tav.  36,  pp.  308-311.  sentecl  on  sepulchral  monuments,  fco  indicate 

^  In  one  of  these  boar-hunts  the  beast  is  the  season  when  the  annual  infericc  or  pa- 

attackcd   by    two    winged    boys,    who    are  rcntalia  were  held  in  honour  of  the  dead, 

thought  to  be  Cupids  catching   the    boar  Gori,  III.  cl.  3,  tab.  4. 

wliich  killed   Adonis.      Thcocr.  Idyl.  30  ;  ■*  Liv.  I.  35 ;  Xicol.  Daraasc.  ap.  Athen. 

Ingliir.  I.  tav.   60,  p.  5S6.     Macroi.ius  (I.  IV.  c.  39.     Before  the  introduction  of  the 

'21),  who  gives  the  astronomical  symbolism  amphitheatre,  in  the  time  of  Augustus,  the 

of  the  legend,  tells  us  that  the  boar  was  an  Komans  often  held  their  gladiatorial  com- 

cmblcm  of  winter  ;  and  on  this  account,  bats   in   the  circus,   as  here  represent-ed. 

thinks  lughirami  (I.  p.  594),  he  is  reprc-  See  Chap.  V.,  p.  71,  of  Vol.  I. 


176  YOLTEREA.— The  iMusEOr.  [chap.  xliv. 

Maximus,  and  "  sent  for  boxers  and  race-horses  to  Etruria ;  "  '" 
and  we  know  also,  from  the  frequent  representations  of  them  in 
the  painted  tombs,  that  such  spoils  must  have  been  common  in 
that  hind  ;  so  that  it  is  a  fail*  conclusio)i  that  similar  structures 
to  that  Tarquin  raised  for  their  disph\y,  already  existed  there. 
As  an  Etruscan,  he  is  likely  to  have  chosen  for  his  model  some 
circus  with  which  he  was  well  acquainted — probably  that  of  Tar- 
quinii,  his  native  city,  and  the  metropolis  of  the  Confederation. 
That  no  vestiges  of  such  structures  are  extant  may  be  accounted 
for  by  supposing  them  to  have  been  of  wood,  as  the  scaffolding  of 
the  original  Circus  Maximus  is  said  to  have  been.^ 

Processions  there  are  of  various  descrij^tions — funeral,  trium- 
phal, and  judicial.  In  one  of  the  latter,  four  judges  or  magis- 
trates, wrapt  in  togas,  are  proceeding  to  judgment.  Before  them 
march  two  lictors,  each  with  a  pair  of  rods  or  wands,  which  may 
rej)resent  the  fasces  without  the  secures  or  hatchets,  just  as  they 
were  carried  by  Eoman  lictors,  before  one  of  the  consuls  when  in 
the  City.'^  They  are  preceded  bj'  a  slave,  bearing  a  curule  chair, 
another  insujne  of  authority,  and,  like  the  lictors  and  fasces,  of 
Etruscan  origin.^  Other  slaves  carry  the  soiniuiii  or  capsa,  a 
cylindiical  box  for  the  documents,  and  imgiliares,  or  wax  tablets 
for  noting  down  the  proceedings.^ 

On  another  m-n  the  fom-  magistrates  are  returning  from  judg- 
ment, having  descended  fi-om  their  seats  on  the  elevated  platform. 
The  lictors,  who  precede  them  in  tliis  case,  bear  forked  rods. 
They  are  encountered  by  a  veiled  matron,  with  her  two  daughters, 


*  Liv.   loc.    cit.  —  Liulicrum    fuit   equi  well  at  it,  as  if  to  intimate  that  the  soul 

pugilesque  ex  Etrm-ia  maxime  acciti.     Cf.  had  reached  its  goal  and  finished  its  course. 

Dion.  Hal.  III.  p.  200.  Inghir.  I.  tas-.  100. 

•>  Dion.  Hal.  loc.  cit.     The  only  Etruscan  ''  Cicero,  de  Repub.  II.  .31  ;  Yal.  Max. 

monument  which  shows  us  how  the  specta-  IV,  1,  1  ;  Plutarch.  Publicola  ;  Dion.  Hal. 

tors   were    accommodated   at    the    public  V.  p.  278.     So  they  are  represented  also 

games,  is  the  Grotta  delle  Bighe  at  Cor-  on  an  Etruscan  cippus,  described  at  page 

neto,   where  they  are  depicted  seated  on  112  ;  and  also  on  auurn  witha  banqueting- 

simple  i^latforms,  apparently  of  wood — just  scene,  which  Inghirami   interprets  as  the 

such  as  are  now  raised  at  a  horse-race  or  curse  of  ffidipus  (I.  tav.  72,  73  ;  cf.  Gori, 

other  spectacle  in  Florence  or  Rome,  but  III.  cl.  3,  tav.  14). 

with  curtains  to  shade  them  from  the  sun.  ^  Liv.  I.  8 ;  Flor.  I.  5  ;   Dion.  Hal.  III. 

See  Chap.  XXV.  p.  375,  Vol.  I.  p.  195  ;  Strabo,  V.  p.  220  ;  Sil.  Ital.  YIII. 

These  circus-scenes  ought,    perhaps,   to  4S6-8  ;  Diodor.  Sic.  V.  p.  316,  ed.  Rhod. ; 

be  classed  with  the  funereal  subjects  ;  for  Macrob.  Saturn.  I.   6  ;  cf.  SaUust.  Catil. 

it  is  highly  probable    tliat  they  represent  51. 

the  games  in  honour  of  the  deceased.     In  '  This  scene  is  illustrated  by  Jlicali,  Ital. 

one  scene,  where  a  spina  is  introduced,  it  av.    Rora.    tav.   40  ;  Ant.   Pop.    Ital.   tav. 

has  manifestly  a  figurative  allusion;  for  a  112,  1;  <<uri.  III.  cl.  4,  tab.  23,  27. 
man  and  woman  are  taking  their  last  fare- 


CHAP.  XLiv.]  JUDICIAL    AND    TEIUMPH.\.L    PROCESSIOXS.        177 


and  two  little  cliildren  of  tender  age  —  the  family,  it  may  be, 
of  the  criminal  come  to  implore  mercy  for  the  husband  and 
father.i 

Here  are  also  triumplial  jn-ocessions,  which  history  tells  us  the 
Etruscans  had  as  well  as  the  Romans;"  and  which,  in  fact,  are 
generally  attributed  to  the  former  people,'^  though  there  is  no 
positive  evidence  of  such  an  origin,  be3'ond  the  introduction  into 
■such  processions  of  golden  or  gilt  chariots,  drawn  by  four  horses  ; 
the  earlier  triumphs  having  been  on  foot.*  Here  are  instances  of 
both  modes,  the  victor  being  preceded  by  cornicines  or  trumpeters, 
b}'  fifers  and  harpers,  and  where  he  is  in  a  chariot,  by  a  lictor  also 
with  a  wand. '  The  Etruscanism  of  the  scene  lies  in  the  winged 
genius,  who,  with  a  torch  in  her  hand,  is  seated  on  one  of  the 
horses.''  It  may  be  that  the  scene  is  rather  funereal  than  festive, 
and  that  the  figure  in  the  chariot  with  the  attributes  of  triumph 
is  intended  to  represent  a  soul  entering  on  a  new  state  of  exist- 
ence. Just  as  in  the  Tomba  GoHni  at  Orvieto,  the  soul  on  its 
triumphal  entrance  to  Eh'siuni,  is  represented  driving  a  hi(ja, 
followed  by  a  trumpeter,  and  attended  b}'  a  Avinged  Lasa.'^  A 
further  analogy  may  be  found  in  the  Grotta  del  Tifone  at  Cometo, 
where  souls  are  attended  by  demons,  one  with  a  torch,  and  by 


^  ilieali,  Aiit.  Pop.  Ital.  tav.  11-2,  2  ; 
Gori,  III.  cl.  4,  tab.  15. 

-  Flor.  I.  5  ;  Appian.  de  Reb.  Pun. 
LXYI. ;  cf.  Plin.  XXXIII.  4. 

=*  Dempster,  Etrur.  Keg.  I.  p.  328  ;  Goii, 
JIus.  Etr.  I.  p.  370.  Miiller  (Etrusk.  11. 
2,  7)  con.siders  the  Roman  triumph  to  be 
either  immediately  derived  from  Etruria, 
or  to  be  a  continuation  of  the  pageants 
which  the  kings  of  Rome  had  received  from 
that  land. 

*  Plutarch.  Romul. ;  Flor.  I.  5.  Dio- 
aij-sius  (II.  p.  102)  says  Romulus  triumphed 
in  a  quadri'ja  (cf.  Propert.  IV.  eleg.  I.  32) ; 
but  Plutarch  opposes  this,  and  cites  ancient 
statues  of  that  monarch  to  prove  that  he 
triumphed  on  foot.  The  introduction  of 
the  quadri'ja  from  Etruria  is  generally 
ascribed  to  the  elder  Tarquin. 

^  Illustrations  of  these  urns  will  be  found 
in  ;Micali,  Ital.  av.  Rom.  tav.  34,  35  ;  Gori, 
I.  tab.  178,  179  ;  III.  cl.  3,  tab.  28. 
Tlie  description  Appian  (loc.  cit.)  gives 
of  a  triumph  in  the  Etruscan  style,  cor- 
responds nearly  with  the  scenes  on  these 
urns.  The  victor,  he  says,  was  precetled 
by  lictors  in  purple  tunics,  and  then,  in 
imitation  of  an  Etruscan  pageant,  by  a 
VOL.  ir. 


chorus  of  harpers  and  satyrs  belted  and 
wearing  golden  chaplets,  dancing  and  sieg- 
ing as  they  went.  One  in  the  midst  of 
them  wore  a  long  pui-ple  rolje,  and  was 
adorned  with  golden  bracelets  and  torques. 
Such  men,  he  saj's,  were  called  Lydi, 
because  the  Etruscans  were  colonists  from 
Lydia.  These  Avere  followed  by  men  bear- 
ing vessels  of  incense,  and  last  of  all  came 
the  victorious  general  in  his  qiwdrif/a,  clad 
in  his  toya  picta,  and  tunica  i^alniata, 
with  a  golden  crown  of  oak  leaves  on  his 
brow,  and  an  ivory  sceptre,  adorned  with 
gold,  in  his  hand.  See  JIuller,  Etrusk. 
IV.  1,  2. 

''  It  seems  probable  that  this  winged 
demon  may  correspond  to  the  Xike  or 
Victory,  commonly  represented  on  Greek 
coins  and  other  works  of  art,  as  hovering 
over  the  quadriga  of  a  conqueror.  On 
another  urn  in  this  museum,  a  qiuulri(ja, 
in  which  stands  a  warrior,  is  drawn  by  a 
Fury  with  a  torch,  into  an  abyss.  Lanzi 
(ap.  lughir.  I.  j).  6(50)  interpreted  it  as 
the  death  of  Amphiaraus — AmphiaraeiB 
fata  quadrigae.  Ingh.  I.  tav.  84  ;  Gori,  III. 
cl.  3,  tab.  12. 

"  L't  supra,  p.  55. 

x 


ITB 


YOLTERRA.— The  J^IusEUir. 


[chap,  xliv. 


figures  bearing  wands,  preceded  hy  a  conticcii  ;"*  which  ])rooession 
is  supposed  to  rejiresent  the  triumphal  entrance  of  souls  into  the 
unseen  world .^ 

Of  marriages,  few  representations,  which  have  not  a  mythical 
reference,  have  been  found  on  the  sarcophagi  or  sepulchral  urns 
of  Etruria,  though  most  of  the  earlier  writers  on  these  antiquities- 
mistook  the  farewell-scenes,  presently  to  he  described,  where 
persons  of  opposite  sexes  stand  hand  in  hand,  for  scenes  of 
iniptial  festivity.^ 

There  ai-e  several  representations  of  sacrifices ;  the  priest 
pouring  a  libation  on  the  head  of  the  bull  about  to  be  slain. 
In  one  case  the  victim  is  a  donkey — the  delight  of  the  garden- 
god,— 

Caiditiir  et  rigido  custodi  ruris  asellus. 

In  another  scene,  a  beast  like  a  wolf  is  rising  from  a  well,  but 
is  restrained  by  a  chain  held  b}'  two  men,  Avhile  a  third  pours 
a  libation  on  his  head,  and  a  fourth  strikes  him  down  with 
an  axe.  It  is  evidently  no  ordinary  sacrifice,  for  all  the  figures- 
are  armed.- 

Here  also  is  seen  the  dreadful  rite  of  human  sacrifice,  too- 
often  performed  by  the  Etruscans,  as  well  as  by  the  Greeks  and 
Romans.'^  The  men  who  sit  with  their  hands  bound  behind 
their  backs,   and   on   whose    heads    the    priestesses   are  pouring 


^  See  Vol.  I.  p.  331-333. 

'••  Urlichs,  Bull.  Inst.  1839,  y.  47. 

'  Buonarroti,  Passeri,  Gori,  even  Lnnzi 
and  Micali,  made  this  mistake.  See  In- 
ghirami,  I.  pp.  191,  208.  T>vo  sarcopLagi 
bearing  nuptial  scenes  have  been  described 
in  Chapter  XXX.,  Vol.  I,  p.  472. 

-  Inghir.  I.  tav.  60  ;  VI.  tav.  E.  5.  4  ; 
Gori,  III.  cl.  3,  tab.  10.  Dempster  (tab. 
25)  gives  a  plate  of  a  Peniglau  urn,  with  a 
similar  scene  ;  but  the  monster  has  a 
hnman  body  with  a  dog's  head.  It  is  not 
easy  to  explain  this  verj'  singular  subject. 
IJuonarroti  (p.  24,  ap.  Dempst.  II.)  .sees  in 
the  victim  the  monster  Volta,  which  is  said 
to  have  ravaged  the  land  of  Volsinii,  and 
to  have  been  destroyed  by  Porsena.  Plin. 
II.  54.  Passeri  (Achcront.  j).  59,  ap. 
Gori,  Mus.  Etr.)  interprets  it  as  the  demon 
of  Temessa,  called  Lycas,  which  was  clad 
in  a  wolf's  skin,  and  was  overcome  by 
Euthymus,  the  piugilist.  Pau.san.  VI.  (i, 
9-11.  Inghirami  takes  it  to  represent 
Lycaon  protected  by  Mar.'*,  with  Ceres  as  a 


Fury  liy  his  side. 

•*  IMatTei  (t)sserv.  Letter.  IV.  p.  65)  in- 
dignantlj'  rejects  this  charge  against  his 
forefathers  :  "  They  cannot,  and  they  ought 
not  to  attribute  so  unworthy  and  barbarous- 
a  custom  to  our  Etruscans,  without  any 
foundation  of  authority  !  "  It  is  true  there- 
is  no  recorded  evidence  of  such  a  i^ractice 
among  the  Etruscans,  unless  the  Roman' 
captives,  put  to  death — Immolati — in  the 
forum  of  Tarquinii  (Liv.  VII.  15,  19),  may 
be  regarded  as  offered  to  the  gods.  The 
Phoca'an  prisoners  stoned  to  death  at  Ccere- 
(Herod.  I.  167)  can  hardly  have  been  sacri- 
ficed. But  monuments  abundantly  esta- 
blish the  fact.  Midler,  indeed,  thinks  the 
Romans  learned  this  horrid  rite  from  the 
Etruscans  (Etrusk.  III.  4,  14).  Inghirami 
(I.  1).  716),  though  admitting  it  to  be  an 
Etruscan  custom,  thinks  it  had  gone  out 
of  jn-actice  before  the  date  of  these  urns. 
Yet  we  know  it  had  not  entirely  fallen 
into  disuse  in  Greece  or  Rome  till  Imperial 
times. 


CHAP.  xLiv.]  SACRIFICIAL    SCENES.  179 

libations,  are  captives  about  to  be  offered  to  a  deity,  or  to  the 
Manes  of  some  hero.  They  may  be  the  Trojans  Avhom  Achilles 
sacrificed  to  the  shade  of  Patroclus ;  they  may  be  Orestes  and 
Pylades  at  the  altar  of  Diana.  Observe  the  altar  in  this  scene. 
It  is  precisely  like  a  Roman  Catholic  shrine,  even  to  the  very 
cross  in  the  midst,  for  tlio  pancllinti;  of  tlie  wall  sliows  that  form 
in  relief'.^ 

In  another  scene  the  victim  lies  dead  at  tlie  foot  of  the  altar, 
and  a  -winged  genius  sits  in  a  tree  hard  by.  Micali  takes  this 
to  represent  the  oracle  of  Faunus,  Inghirami  that  of  Tiresias.' 

Not  all  these  sacrificial  scenes  are  of  this  sanguinary  character. 
Offerings  of  various  descriptions  are  being  brought  to  the  altar, 
and  in  one  case  a  tall  amphora  stands  upon  it. 

On  one  urn,  on  which  a  3'oung  girl  reclines  in  effigy,  is  a 
school  scene,  with  half  a  dozen  figures  sitting  together  holding 
open  scrolls  ;  seeming  to  intimate  that  the  deceased  had  been 
cut  off  in  the  bloom  of  life,  ere  her  education  was  comijlete." 
In  this,  as  in  certain  other  cases,  there  seems  a  relation  between 
the  figure  on  the  lid  and  the  bas-relief  below,  though  in  general 
the  reliefs,  especially  Avhen  the  subject  is  from  the  Grecian  mytho- 
logy, bear  no  apparent  reference  to  the  superincumbent  effigy." 

Banqueting  scenes  are  numercnis,  and  bear  a  close  resemblance 
to  those  in  the  painted  tombs  of  Tarquinii  and  Clusium.  There 
are  generally  several  couches  with  a  pair  of  figures  of  oi)posite 
sexes  on  each — a  corroboration  from  another  source  of  the  high 
social  civilisation  of  the  Etruscans'* — and  there  are  children  of 


■•  Gori,  I.  tab.  170.    Two  of  these  reliefs,  ''  The  relation  is  seen  also  in  some  of  the 

illustrated  by  Inghirami  (I.   tav.  96,  97j,  car-scenes  presently  to  be  described  ;  but, 

may  represent  a  human  sacrifice.     In  one,  with  rare  exceptions,  there  seems  to  be  no 

a  man  is  on  his  knees  amid  some  warriors  ;  relation    beyond    that    of    juxta-position, 

and  slaves  are  bearing,  one  a  ladder,  another  between  the  urn  and  its  lid.     Besides  the 

a  jar  on  his  shoulder,  and  a  large  mallet  incongruity   of    subject,    the    material    is 

in  his  hand,  and  a  boy  plays  the  double  often  not  the  same.     The  style  of  art.  be- 

pipes.      The   otlier   relief   has   the    same  trays  a  wide  difference  of  excellence,  and 

features,  but  the  victim  is  falling  to  the  even  of  antiquity.     Inghirami  cites  a  case 

earth,  apparently  just  struck  by  the  sword  of  a  young  girl  reclining  on  the  lid  of  an 

of  one  of  the  group.     Gori  (I.   tab.    140)  urn,  which  bears  an  epitaph  for  a  person 

calls  this  scene  "the   death  of  Elpenor."  of  more  than  70  (I.  p.  399;  cf.  408,  tav. 

Another  relief,  which  represents  a  youth  U.  3,  2).     In  the  case  cited,   it  is  most 

stabbing  himself  on  an  altar,  is  inteii>retcd  likely  that  the  lid  was  shifted  from  one 

by  Larzi  and  Inghirami  (I.  p.  673,  tav.  86)  urn   to   the  other,    in    the   removal   from 

as   the  self-sacrifice  of   Menceceus,   son  of  the  sepulchre.     The  frequent  incongruities 

^-•■con.  of  this  description  render  it  probable  that 

'  Micali,  Ital.  av.  IJom.  tav.  41  ;  Inghir.  the  urns  were  kept   in  store,   and   fitted 

I.  tav.  78,  p.  6.o4.  with  lids  to  order. 

6  Gori,  III.  d.  2,  tab.  12.  »  See  Chap.  XXV.  p.  310  of  Vol.  I. 

.N  2 


180  YOLTERRA.— Tjie  MusEr^r.  [chap.  xliv. 

various  ages  standing  around,  sometimes  embracing  eacli  otlier ; 
pictures  of  domestic  felicit}',  such  as  are  rarely  seen  on  the 
monuments  of  antiquity.  The  usual  musicians  are  present — 
suhulones,  Avith  the  double-pipes  ;  citluiristce,  with  the  lyre  ;  and 
jilayers  of  the  sijr'nir  or  Pandean  pipes — all,  as  well  as  the 
revellers,  crowned  with  garlands  of  roses.  Tables,  bearing 
refreshments,  stand  by  the  side  of  the  couches,  together  with 
scanuia  or  stools,  on  which  the  musicians  stand,  or  by  which 
the  attendants  ascend  to  fill  the  goblets  of  the  banqueters, 
elevated  as  the}"  are  b}'  lofty  cushions.^  Just  such  tables  and 
stools  are  often  represented  in  relief  on  the  face  of  the  bench  of 
rock  on  which  the  body  or  sarcophagus  was  laid  in  the  tomb — 
the  banqueting-hall  of  the  dead. 

The  most  interesting  scenes,  because  the  most  touching  and 
pathetic,  are  those  Avhich  depict  the  last  moments  of  the  deceased. 
A  woman  is  stretched  on  her  couch ;  her  father,  husband,  sisters 
or  daughters  are  weeping  around  her ;  her  little  ones  stand  at 
her  bed-side,  unconscious  how  soon  they  are  to  be  bereft  of  a 
mother's  tenderness — a  moment  near  at  hand,  as  is  intimated 
b}'  the  presence  of  a  winged  genius  with  a  torch  on  the  point  of 
expiring.  Sometimes  the  dying  woman  is  delivering  to  her 
friend  her  tablets,  open  as  though  she  had  just  been  recording 
her  thoughts  upon  them.  This  death-bed  scene  is  a  favourite 
subject.  It  may  be  remarked  that  the  couches  are  sometimes 
recessed  in  alcoves,  and  sometimes  canopied  over  like  bedsteads, 
though  in  a  more  classical  style.  Behind  the  couch  is  often  a 
column  surmounted  by  a  pine-cone,  a  common  funereal  emblem.^ 
Most  of  such  scenes,  however,  bear  but  a  metaphorical  reference 
to  the  dread  event.  It  has  been  already  mentioned  that  souls 
are  often  symbolised  by  figures  on  horseback.-     On  an  lu'n,  on 

^  Ingliirami,    I.   tav.    72,   73,    82  ;    YI.  is  interpreted  by  IngliiraBii  (I.   lav.  01,  jj. 

tav.  Y.  3  :  Micali,  Ital.  ay.  Rom.  tav.  37,  514),   as  Stheuebcea,   the  wanton  wife  of 

38  ;  Ant.  Pop.  Ital.  tav.  107  ;  Gori,  III.  Prcetus,  despatching  IJellerophon  to  Lycia. 
cl.    4,    tab.    14.     Two    of   these    banquet-  -  The  horse    on    sepulchral    monuments 

scenes  Ingliirami  takes  to  represent  ffidipus  has  been  thought  to  show  the  equestrian 

pronouncing  a  curse  on  his  sons.     Another,  rank   of  the  deceased,    or    to    denote   the 

he  thinks,  represents  Ulysses  in  disguise,  elevation    of   the   soul    to   divine    dignity, 

at    the    banquet    of    Penelope's    suitors.  laghir.  I.  p.   179.     But  for  the  most  part 

Inghir.  YI.  tav.  F.  it  was  jjrobably  no  further  symbolical,  than 

^  Inghir.   I.    tav.    95  ;  (lori,  III.    cl.    4,  as  significant  of   a  journey.     Ann.    Inst, 

tab.  13,  23.     Such  an  alcove  is  also  shown  1837,  2,  p.  259.     It  was  frequently  intro- 

in  an  nrn,  illustrated  by  Gori  (III.  cl.   3,  duced  on  funeral  urns  by  the  Greeks  and 

tab.  6),  where  a  man  seems  to  be  taking  Romans  ;  the  latter  jirobaljly  borrowed  it 

farewell  of  his  wife,  wlio  reclines  on  the  from  the  Etruscans,     l^'ometimes  the  beast's 

couch.     Another  somewhat   similar  relief  head  alone  is  represented  looking  in  at  a 


ciiAi'.  xLiv.]    DEATH-BED    SCENES.— FINAL    FAREWELLS.        ISl 

tlu'  lid  of  wliicli  he  reclines  in  effij^y,  a  3-outli  is  represented  on 
horseback  about  to  start  on  that  journey  from  which  "no 
traveller  returns,"  when  his  little  sister  rushes  in,  and  strives  to 
stay  the  horse's  steps, — in  vain,  for  the  relentless  messenger  of 
I  )eath  seizes  the  bridle  and  hurries  him  away.  It  is  a  simple  tale, 
touchingly  told ;  its  truthful  earnestness  and  expressive  beauty 
are  lost  in  the  bare  recital. 

"  An  unskilled  hand,  but  one  informed 
With  genius,  had  the  marble  warmed 
"With  that  i^athetic  life.'' 

There  are  many  such  family-separations,  all  of  deep  interest. 
The  most  common  is  the  parting  of  husband  and  wife,  embracing 
for  the  last  time.  That  such  is  the  import  is  proved  b}"  the  fatal 
horse,  in  waiting  to  convey  him  or  her  to  another  world  ;  and  a 
Genius,  or  it  may  be  grim  Charun  himself,  in  readiness  as 
conductor,  and  a  slave,  with  a  large  sack  on  his  shoulders,  to 
accompany  him — intimating  the  length  and  dreariness  of  the 
journey — while  his  relations  and  little  ones  stand  around, 
mourning  his  departure.  Here  the  man  is  already  mounted, 
driven  away  by  Charun  with  his  hammer,  while  a  Juno  throws 
her  ann  affectionately  round  the  neck  of  the  disconsolate  widow, 
and  tries  to  assuage  her  grief."  Here  again  the  man  has 
mounted,  and  a  group  of  women  rush  out  frantically  to  stop  him. 
In  some  the  parting  takes  place  at  a  column,  the  bourn  that 
cannot  be  repassed ;  the  living  on  this  side,  the  dead  on  that ;  or 
at  a  doorway,  one  within,  the  other  Avithout,  giving  the  last 
squeeze  of  the  hand  ere  the  door  closes  upon  one  for  ever.^ 

There  are  many  versions  of  this  final  separation,  and  the  horse, 
or  some  other  feature  in  the  scene,  is  sometimes  omitted  ;  but 
the  subject  is  still  intelligibly  expressed.' 

Numerous  urns  represent  the  passage  of  the  soul  alone,  with- 
out any  parting-scene  ; "  and  in  these  old  Cliai'un,  grisly,  savage, 

window  upon  a  funeral  feast,  as  in  the  cele-  conti    interprets    these    parting-scenes   a.s 

brated  relief  in  the  Villa  Albani.     Ingliir.  representing    in    general    the    iiarting   of 

VI.  tav.  G.   o.     On  one  of  these  iirns  the  Protesilaus  and  Laodameia  (ap.  Inghir.  I.  p. 

hoi-seis  represented  trampling  over  prostrate  297).     But  Inghirami  (p.  72i)  takes  them 

liodies,  as  if  to  intimate  the  passage  through  to  .symbolize  the  separation  of  the  .soul  and 

tlie  regions  of   the    dead.     Inghir.    I.    p.  the  body. 

•246,  tav.  27.  ''  It  may  be  observed  that  the  costume 

•'  Inghir.  I.  tav.  28.  of  these  souls  is  generally  the  simple  toga, 

•*  Inghir.  I.  tav.  38  ;  VI.  txv.  Q.  2,  I.  .3  ;  often  muffling  the  face — not  as  travellers 

•  tori,  I.  tab.  84,  189.  are  conventionally  distinguished  on  Greek 

'  Micali,  Ital.  av.   Rom.   tav.  3!>  ;  Gori,  painted  vases  Ijy  petasux,  staff,  sandals,  and 

I.  tab.  169  ;  III.  cl.   7,  tab.  20,  21.      Vis-  dishevelled  hair. 


182  VOLTEEEA.— The  :Mr>;EVM.  [chap.  xliv. 

aiul  of  bnitish  aspect,  ^villl  his  mallet  raised  to  strike,  and 
(il'teii  with  a  sword  in  the  other  liand,  generally  takes  part;  now 
leading  the  horse  by  the  bridle,  or  clutching  it  b}'  the  mane  ; 
more  often  driving  it  before  him,  while  a  spirit  of  gentle  aspect, 
and  with  torch  inverted,  takes  the  lead,"  The  slave  with  a  sack 
vm  his  shoulder  generally  follows  this  funeral  procession,  and  has 
reference  either  to  the  length  of  tlie  journey  which  requires  such 
provision,  or  to  the  articles  of  domestic  use  with  which  the  tomb 
was  furnished,  as  he  often  carries  a  vase  or  pitcher  in  his  hand. 
In  some  cases  a  vase,  in  others  a  Phrygian  cap,  lies  under  the 
horse's  feet,  as  if  to  express  that  the  delights  and  pursuits  of  this 
world  were  for  ever  abandoned,  and  cast  aside  as  worthless  ;  and 
on  one  urn  a  serpent  occupies  the  same  place,  marking  the 
funereal  character  of  the  scene." 

As  the  good  and  bad  demons  on  these  lu-ns  are  not  to  be 
distinguished  by  their  colour,  as  in  the  painted  tombs,  they  are 
to  be  recognised  either  b}-  their  attributes,  by  their  features  and 
expression,  or  by  the  offices  they  are  performing.  The  good  are 
handsome  and  gentle,  the  evil  ill-favoured  and  truculent.  Cliarun, 
in  particular,  has  satyresque  features  and  brute's  ears,  and  in 
one  case  a  horn  on  his  forehead.  The  mallet  and  sword  are  his 
usual  attributes,  as  well  as  those  of  his  ministers ;  some  of  whom 
bear  a  torch  instead,  the  general  emblem  of  Furies.^  But  the 
good  spirits,  in  many  cases,  also  hold  a  torch ;  indeed,  this 
seems  merely  a  funereal  emblem,  to  distinguish  between  the 
living  and  the  dead.  As  the  flame  symbolises  the  vital  spark, 
the  demon,  in  these  farewell  scenes,  who  stands  on  the  side  of 
the  living  liolds  his  torch  erect ;  he  on  the  side  of  the  dead  has  it 
inverted.  The  spirit,  therefore,  who  leads  the  fatal  horse,  has  it 
always    turned   downwards.^     When   two    demons    with    torches, 

^  The  genius  is  not  always  introduced.  muffled    soul   on    liorseback    occupies   the 

Inghirami  takes  it  to  represent,  sometimes  front  of  the  urn,  Cliarua  one  of  its  ends, 

a  Fury,  sometimes  one  of  the  Virtues  I   (I.  and    a   genius,   with    torch    inverted,    the 

pp.  80,  139).  other.     JMicali,   Ant.   Pop.   Ital.   tav.  104, 

'"*  For  illustrations  of  these  urns,  see  2,  3. 
Inghir.  Mon.  Etrus  I.  tav.  7,  8,  14,  15,  "  For  the  chavacteri .sties  of  the  Etruscan 
17, 18,  22,  23,  27,  28,  29,  32,  37  ;  Micali,  Charun,  .see  the  Appendix  to  this  Chapter. 
Ital.  av.  Rom.  tav.  26  ;  Gori,  I.  tab.  84  ;  '  This  might  Le  supposed  to  mark  an 
III.  cl.  3,  tab.  11  ;  cl.  4,  tab.  24.  In  one  evil  demon,  but  I  think  it  has  more  pro- 
of these  reliefs  (Ingh.  I.  tav.  28),  liraun  bably  reference  to  the  surrounding  figures 
recognises  the  re-meeting  of  souls  in  the  tlian  to  the  genius  himself.  He  is  here  a 
other  world.  Ann.  Inst.  1837,  2,  p.  2<50.  minister  of  Death,  it  is  true,  but  not  a 
This  would  be  more  likely  in  tav.  33,  34.  malignant  .spirit  who  revels  in  destruction. 
The  demons  are  not  always  in  the  same  like  the  hammer-bearing  Cliarun,  who  also 
scene  with  the  other  figures ;  as  where  a  attends  the  soul. 


CHAP.  XLiv.]  FUNERAL    PROCESSIONS.  18;J 

tlius   (lirterently  arranged,  are  in  the  same  scene,  lliey  seem  to 

indicate  tlie  very  moment  of  the  soul's  departure — now  liere,  now 

there — 

"  Like  .snow  tliat  falls  upon  the  river — 
A  moment  wliite — tlien  melts  for  ever  !" 

It  may  be  observed,  that  tlie  good  spirits  are  almost  always 
females,  or  Junones,  an  Etruscan  compliment  to  man's  ministering 
angel ;  but  the  liideous  attendants  of  Charun  are,  in  most  cases, 
males. 

There  are  funeral  processions  of  a  different  character.  A 
covered  car  or  waggon,  open  in  front,  and  drawn  by  two  horses 
or  mules — what  the  llomans  called  a  carpentuin,  and  the  modern 
Spaniards  would  tevm  a,  g ale r a — is  accompanied  by  figures  on  foot. 
In  one  instance  it  is  preceded  by  a  litter,  out  of  which  a  woman  is 
looking  ;  and  in  several  it  is  encountered  by  a  man  on  horseback. 
In  this  car  is  seen  reclining,  now  a  mother  with  her  child,  now 
an  elderly  couple,  but  generally  a  single  figure,  the  counterpart 
in  miniature  of  the  recumbent  effig}"  on  the  lid  of  the  urn.  I 
^vould  interpret  it  as  representing  the  transport  of  the  actual  ash- 
chest  or  sarcophagus  to  the  sepulchre,  which  seems  confirmed  by 
the  drows}"  air  and  drcjoping  heads  of  the  horses.  Nor  is  this 
view  opposed  by  the  figures  with  musical  instruments,  nor  by 
an  armed  man,  who  in  one  case  follows  the  car.^  On  one  urn 
the  funeral  procession  is  manifestly  represented,  for  the  deceased 
is  stretched  on  a  bier,  carried  on  men's  shoulders.  These  car- 
scenes,  so  far  as  I  can  learn,  are  peculiar  to  Volterra  ;  for  I  have 
ween  them  on  no  other  site.'* 

Though  cinerary  urns  are  so  numerous  in  this  collection,  there 
are  but  two  sarcophagi,  properly  so  called ;  both  of  tufo,  an<l 
both  fouiul  in  the  tomb  of  the  Flavian  family  in  1700.*^     The 

'  In  general  it  is  essentially  distinguislictl  ■'  For   illusti-ations  see  Micali,  Ital.  av. 

from  the  borse-scenes  by  the  alisence  of  lloiu.  tav.  27,  28;  Gori,  I.  tab.  169;  III. 

riiarun  and  liis  ministers,  or  of  attendant  cl.  4,  tab.  22.     On  a  vase  from  Vulci,  in 

genii,  and  of  fij^'ures  taking  farewell.    There  the  Archaic  style,  a  scene  very  similar  is 

is  nothing  to  hint  that  it  is  more  than  a  depicted.     The  cori)se    is   stretched    on  a 

representation  of  actual  life.     In  one  in-  liicr,  idaced  on  wheels  and  drawn  by  two 

stance  only  does   it   seem  to  refer    to  the  mules  ;  the  widow  and  son  of  the  deceased 

piissage  of  the  soul,  and  there  the  car  is  are  seated  on  the  bier ;  mourners  on  foot  are 

l)receded    by   a    demon    with    two    small  accompanying  it,    all   with  their  hands  to 

shields,   and  followed    by  another  with  a  their  heads  in  token  of  grief ;  and  it  is  fol- 

torch.     The  car  may  not  in  every  instance  lowed  by  a  subulo  inlaying  his  donblc-i)ipes, 

lie  the   hearse  ;    in    some,    where    several  and  by  a  number  of  warriors  lowering  their 

figures  are  reclining   within   it,    it    may  lances.    Alicali,  Ant.  Pop.  Ital.  Ill,  p.  150, 

answer  to  the  mourning  coach,  conveying  tav.  96  1. 
the  relatives  of  the  deceased.  ■•  The   tomb   contained   moreover   forty 


184  YOLTEEEA.— The  Museoi.  [chap.  xliv. 

recumbent  figures  on  the  lids  are  of  opposite  sexes.  On  the  sar- 
cophagus of  the  male  is  a  procession  of  several  figures,  each  with 
a  pair  of  Avands,  not  twisted  like  those  in  the  Grotta  Tifone  at 
Conieto,  or  on  tlie  sculptured  tonih  of  Xorchia ;  except  one  who 
bears  a  short  thick  staff,  which  may  he  intended  for  a  lictor's 
fascis.  They  precede  a  figure  in  a  toga,  which  seems  to  rejiresent 
a  soul ;  unless  there  be  some  analogy  to  the  procession  of  magis- 
trates already  described,  and  he  represent  the  infernal  judge  on 
his  way  to  sit  in  sentence."'  For  the  soul  is  figured  at  one  end 
of  the  sarcophagus,  under  the  conduct  of  an  evil  genius  with  a 
liammcr,  yet  not  Charun,  since  he  has  not  brute's  ears,  nor  is  he 
of  truculent  or  hideous  aspect,  like  the  genuine  Charun,  who  is- 
to  be  seen  with  all  his  unmistakable  attributes  at  the  op[)osite 
end  of  the  monument. 

The  other  sarcophagus,  on  which  reclines  a  woman,  has  reliefs- 
of  unusual  beaut}',  whose  Greek  character  marks  them  as  of  no 
very  early  date.  There  are  two  distinct  gToups;  in  one,  a  mother 
with  her  little  ones  around  her,  is  taldng  an  embrace  of  her 
husband — in  the  other,  she  is  seated  mournfully  on  a  stool^ 
fondling  her  child,  which  leans  upon  her  lap.  The  one  scene 
2)ortrays  her  in  the  height  of  domestic  felicity ;  the  other  in  the 
lonel}'  condition  of  a  v/idow,  yet  with  some  consolation  left  in  the 
pledges  of  her  love.  Or  if  the  first  represent  the  farewell  em- 
brace, though  there  is  no  concomitant  to  determine  it  as  such,  in 
the  second  is  clearty  set  forth  the  greatness  of  her  loss,  and  the 
bitterness  of  her  bereavement. 

It  is  such  scenes  as  these,  and  others  before  described,  which 
give  so  great  a  charm  to  this  collection.  The  Etruscans  seem  to 
have  excelled  in  the  palpable  expression  of  natural  feelings^ 
How  unmeaning  the  hieroglyphics  on  Egyptian  sarcophagi,  save 
to  the  initiated !  How  deficient  the  sepulchral  monuments  of 
Greece  and  Rome  in  such  universal  appeals  to  the  sympathies  ! — 
even  their  ei)itaphs,  from  the  constant  recurrence  of  the  same 
conventional  terms,  may  often  be  suspected  of  insincerity.''  But 
the  touches  of  nature  on  these  Etruscan  urns,  so  simply  but 
eloquentl}'  expressed,  must  appeal  to  the  sympathies  of  all — they 

urns,  all  witli  inscriptions.     These  are  tlie  coq^se. 

only  genuine  Etruscan  sarcophagi  Inghirami  ^  Hear  a  Eoman's  description  of  Greek 

ever  saw  from  the  tombs  of  Volterra  :  .so  inscriptions.      "  Inscriijtionis  apud  Grrecos- 

iinivei"sal   was    the    custom    of    burning.  mira  felicitas :    .    .    inscriirtiones,  propter 

Mon.  Etrus.  I.  pp.  9,  34.  quas  vadimonium  deseri  possit.     At  quum 

■'•  Inghirami  (I.  p.  31,  tav.  3)  takes  this  intraveris,    dii   dea3que  !    quam    nihil    iii 

for  a    funeral   procession    ijrecediug    the  medio  invenies ! "     I'lin.  N.  H.  pra-fat. 


CHAP.  xLiv.]        UEXS    OF    THE    CiECINA    FAMILY. 


185 


are  chords  to  which  every  heart  must  respond  ;  and  I  envy  not 
the  man  who  can  walk  tlu'ough  this  ^luseuni  unmoved,  without 
feeling  a  tear  rise  to  his  eye, 

' '  And  recognising  ever  and  anon 
The  breeze  of  Nature  stirring  in  his  soul." 

The  interest  of  the  urns  of  Volterra  lies  rather  in  their  reliefs 
than  in  their  inscriptions.  Some,  however,  have  this  additional 
interest.  It  has  already  been  said  that  this  Musemn  contains 
the  urns  found  in  the  tomb  of  the  Csecinae,  that  ancient  and 
noble  famil}'  of  Aolterrt),  which  either  gave  its  name  to,  or 
received  it  from,  the  river  which  washes  the  southern  base  of  the 
hill ; ''  a  family  to  which  belonged  two  "  most  noble  men  "  of  the 
name  of  Aulus  C;ecina,  the  friends  of  Cicero  ;  the  elder  defended 
by  his  eloquence  ;  the  yovmger  honoured  by  his  correspondence. 
The  latter  it  was  who  ■wrote  a  libel  on  Julius  Ctesar,  and  was 
generously  pardoned  by  him  ;  and  who  availed  himself  of  his 
hereditary  right,  as  an  Etruscan  patrician,  to  dabble  in  the 
science  of  thunderbolts.  The  name  is  found  more  than  once  on 
these  urns,  and  is  thus  written  in  Etruscan — 


/^M)l^)-V^ 


or  "  AuLE  Ceicna."  But  it  occurs  also  in  its  Latin  form  on 
others  of  these  monuments — on  a  beautiful  altar-like  cij)}^^^,  and 
on  a  cinerary  urn.^  Others  of  the  Ctecinge  distinguished  them- 
selves under  the  Empire  in  the  field,  in  the  senate,  or  in  letters.'-^ 


5"  Miillcr  (Etrusk.  I.  p.  41G)  thinks  it 
more  prohable  that  the  family  gave  its 
name  to  the  river,  tlian  tlie  river  to  the 
family.  An  Englishman's  experience  would 
lead  him  to  the  opijosite  conclusion.  One 
of  tliis  family,  Decius  Albinns  Ciocina,  at 
the  beginning  of  the  tifth  century  after 
Christ,  had  a  villa  on  the  banks  of  the 
river  (llutil.  I.  466)  ;  and  Muller  (I.  p. 
4flC)  remarks,  but  on  what  authority  is  not 
obvious,  that  this  estate  seems  to  have  been 
in  the  jjossession  of  the  family  for  a 
thousand  years. 

"  The  cippu-s  has  already  been  mentioned 
at  i)age  153.  The  urn  bears  this  inscrip- 
tion— 

A  •  CAECINA  •  SELCIA  '  AXXOS    XII. 

The  figure  on  this  urn  is  that  of  a  youth. 


The  relief  disi^lays  one  of  the  car-scenes — 
a  proof,  among  many  others,  that  after  the 
lloman  conquest  the  Etruscans  adhered  to 
their  funeral  customs.  On  another  urn  the 
same  name— aa'  '  ceicna  •  selcia — occurs  in 
Etruscan  characters.  One  of  the  modern 
gates  of  Volten-a  is  called  "  Porta  a  fcselci." 
Can  it  have  derived  its  name  from  the 
ancient  family  of  Selcia,  rather  than  from 
the  blocks  of  its  masonry,  or  of  the  i)ave- 
ment  ? 

'•'  Dempster  (Etrnr.  Keg.  I.  p.  231)  gives 
a  detailed  account  of  the  various  individuals 
of  this  illustrious  family,  who  are  mentioned 
by  ancient  writers  ;  but  still  better  notices 
will  be  found  in  Smith's  Dictionary  of 
(heck  ami  lloman  Biography.  Cf.  Miillcr, 
i;tiusk.  1.  pp.  416-8. 


]SG  VOLTEEBA.— The  :\[usEUJr.  [chap,  xliv. 

Tills  family  lias  continued  to  exist  from  the  days  of  tlie  Etruscans, 
•almost  down  to  our  own  times  :  though  it  now  appears  to  be 
t^xtinct.  I  learned  the  general  oi^inion  at  Volterra  to  he,  that 
the  last  of  his  race  was  a  hisliop.  who  died  in  1765.  His  epitaph 
in  the  Cathedral  calls  him,  "  Thil.  Xic.  Coecina.  Patric.  Yolat. 
Zenopolit.  Epus,  il'c."  J-'antozzi,  the  ciistodc  of  the  ]Museum, 
hoAvever,  assures  me  that  he  reinemhers  a  priest  of  this  name 
some  forty  or  fifty  }ears  since  ;  and  as  he  is  a  barber,  he  should, 
r.v  officio,  be  well  inibrmed  on  such  points.  In  Dempster's  time, 
more  than  two  centuries  since,  the  family  was  tiourishiug — "liodic 
jiohilitatc  sua  vigct  " — and  two  of  its  members,  very  studious  men, 
ixnd  "  ad  honas  artes  nafi,"  were  his  intimate  friends.  One  of 
them  rejoiced  in  t!ie  ancient  name  of  Aulus  Cecina.^ 

Another  Etruscan  family  of  \V)lterra,  of  which  there  are  several 
urns,  is  the 


kIH)P]S3 


or^'CRACNA;"  the  (iracchus,  or  it  may  be,  the  Gracchanus,  of 
the  Eomans. 

The  Flavian  has  been  already  mentioned,  as  one  of  the  Etrus- 
oan  fiimilies  of  Yolterra.  In  its  native  form,  as  found  on  these 
urns,  it  was  written  "  Ylave.'' ■ 

The  inscriptions  on  these  urns  are  generally  carved  on  the 
stone,  and  filled  with  black  or  red  paint,  more  frequently  the 
latter,  to  make  them  more  legible  ;  so  that  they  are  often  preserved 
with  remarkable  freshness." 

These  cinerary  urns  of  "\\ilterra  cannot  lay  claim  to  a  very 
remote  antiquity.  They  are  unquestionabl}"  more  recent  than 
many  of  those  of  other  Etruscan  sites.  This  may  be  learned  from 
the  style  of  art — the  best,  indeed  the  onlj'  safe  criterion — which  is 
never  of  that  archaic  character  found  on  certain  reliefs  on  the 
altars  or  cippi  of  Chiusi  and  Perugia.     The  freedom  and  mastery 

'  Deiiipster,   I.  ji.    233.     An  A.   Cecilia  Vol.   I.   px).   170,  186);  "Setres;,"  fouiiil 

wrote    the    history   of    his  native    city —  also     at     Chiusi;     "Tlapum,"     written 

"  Notizie  Istoriche  di  Volterra" — periiaps  "  Tlaboni,"  in  some  of  the  Latin  inscrip- 

it  was  Dempster's  frieml.      Ingliirami  (I.  p.  tions  ;  Cneunae,  Laucina,  Saucni,  Piikl- 

7)  mentions  a  Lorenzo  Aulo  Ceeina,  a  pro-  muia,  Raxazuia,  and  others,  which  I  have 

prietor,  at  Volterra,  who  made  excavations  seen  on  no  other  Etruscan  site, 

in  1740.  •■'  Pliny    (XXXIH.     40)    tells    u.s    that 

-  Among   the    Etruscan    inscriptions    in  minium  was  used  in  this  way  in  sepulchral 

this   mu.seum,    I   observed    the   names   of  and  other  inscriptions,  to  make  the  letters 

"  UiUN'ATi,"  which  occurs  also  at  l>omarzo,  more  distinct. 
€a.stel  d'  Asso,    Chiusi,  and   Perugia   (sec 


CHAP.  XLiv.J  UENS    OF    TEERA-COTTA.  IM 

of  design,  und  the  skill  in  composition,  at  times  evinced,  bespeak 
the  period  of  lioman  domination  ;  while  the  defects  display  nut 
so  much  the  rndeness  of  early  art,  as  the  carelessness  of  the  time 
of  the  decadence.^ 

There  are  other  sepulchral  monuments  of  a  different  character 
in  this  ]Museum — stela,  or  slabs,  with  Etruscan  inscriptions,  and 
fipp'i  of  club-like,  or  else  phallic,  form. 

Of  tcrra-cotta  are  the  figures  of  an  old  man  and  woman  reclining 
together  as  at  a  banquet,  and  probably  forming  the  lid  of  an  urn. 
They  are  full  of  expression.  Monuments  in  this  material  are 
rarely  found  at  A'olterra ;  yet  there  are  a  few  urns  of  very  small 
nize,  with  the  often  repeated  subjects  of  the  Tlieban  brothers,  and 
("admus  or  Jason  destroying  the  teeth-sprung  warriors  with  the 
plough.  The  figures  on  the  lids  are  generally  wrapt  in  togas, 
and  recline,  not  as  at  a  banrpiet,  but  as  in  slumber."^ 

The  most  remarkable  urn  in  this  material  is  one  from  the  scdri 
of  1874,  which  bears  a  novel  and  most  startLLng  subject  in  relief. 
A  woman  draped,  and  holding  aloft  a  rod  or  a  sword  in  her  right 
liand,  stands  in  a  car  drawn  through  the  air  b}'  four  winged 
dragons,  or  serpents,  of  enormous  size,  which  though  Avide  apart, 
iippear  to  be  all  approaching  the  spectator.  Two  of  tliese 
monsters  spring  from  the  antjjx  of  the  car,  two  from  its  wheels, 
which  seem  to  be  rushing  through  flames.  On  the  eartli  below,  a 
figure  of  each  sex  has  sunk  on  one  knee,  and  looks  up  with  awe 
and  terror  at  the  feai-ful  dragons,  passing  over  their  heads,  whose 
supernatural  dimensions  dwarf  them  to  pigmies.  At  one  end  of 
the  urn,  Cliarun  with  open  wings  and  with  mouth  wide  and 
distorted,  sits  in  an  attitude  of  grief,  and  at  the  opposite  end  is  a 
Lasa  in  a  similar  attitude.  It  has  been  suggested  that  this  scene 
represents  the  flight  of  Medeia  from  Corinth  to  Athens  in  a  chariot 
drawn  by  winged  dragons, — *" 

■'  Ingliirami,  whose  criterion  seems  to  lie  Lcard  in  determining  tlie  age  of  monuments 

■chiefly  the  presence  or  absence  of  the  beard,  has  already  been  shown.     Vol.   I.  p.   381. 

Assigns  a  verj'  late   date  to  these  urns  of  Inghirami  (I.  pp.  82,  i-i")  also  thinks  those 

V'olterra.     In  tnith  he  regards  them  rather  urns  the  oldest,  which  have  reliefs  at  the 

as  Roman  than  Etruscan  ;  and  as  he  con-  ends,   because  they  must  have  been  made 

siders  certain  bas-reliefs,  even  when  of  very  when  the  tombs  were  not  crowded,  and  the 

archaic  character,  to  be  subsequent  to  the  urns  could  be  placed  far  enough  ajuirt  for 

year  454  of  Rome,  because  the  males  are  the  decorations  to  be  seen.     But  this,  as  a 

represented  beardless  ;  so  these,  he  infei's  test  of  antiquity,  is  not  to  lie  relied  on. 
by  comparison,  must  be  of  a  very  late  date  ■'  The  toga,  be  it  remembered,  w:us  usetl 

— the  best,  of  the  days  of  the  first  Emperors;  iu  Imperial  times  as  a  shroud  alone  in  the 

the  worst,  of  the  time  of  Alexander  Severus  greater  part  of  Italy.  Juven.  Sat.  III.  171. 
;ind  downwards.     Mon.   Etrus.   I.  pp.  252,  *  Bull.  Inst.  1874,  p.  233.     If  the  male 

680,  709.     The  fallacy  of  tliis  test  of  the  tigure  on  the  earth  be  Jason,  the  woman  is 


18S  YOLTEEEA.— The  Museuji.  [chap.  xliv. 

Aderat  demissus  ab  ajthere  currus 
Quo  simul  ascendit.  frenataque  coUa  draconum 
Permulsit.  manibusque  leves  agitavit  habenas  ; 
Sublimis  rapitui-." 

and  this  seems  to  be  the  true  interpretation  of  this  Aveircl  subject. 

One  of  the  most  archaic  monuments  in  the  Museum  is  a  bas- 
relief  of  a  bearded  wan-ior,  of  life-size,  on  a  large  slab  of  yellow 
sandstone,  which,  from  the  Etruscan  inscription  annexed,  would 
seem  to  be  a  stele,  or  flat  tombstone."^  He  holds  a  lance  in  one 
hand,  and  his  sword,  which  hangs  at  his  side,  with  the  other. 
The  peculiar  quaintness  of  this  figure,  approximating  to  the 
Egyptian,  or  rather  to  the  Persepolitan  or  Babylonian  in  style, 
yet  with  strictly  Etruscan  features,  causes  it  to  be  justly  regarded 
as  of  high  antiquity.  It  is  very  similar  to  the  warrior  in  relief 
found  near  Fiesole,  and  now  in  the  Palazzo  Bonarruti  at  Florence, 
though  of  a  character  less  decidedly  archaic.^ 

The  capital  of  a  Composite  column,  with  heads  among  the 
fohage,  resembling  that  in  Campanari's  garden  at  Toscanella,  is 
worthy  of  particular  attention. 

There  is  a  headless  statue  of  a  woman  with  a  child  m  her  arms, 
of  marl)le,  Avith  an  Etruscan  inscription  on  her  right  arm.^  It 
Avas  found  in  the  amphitheatre.  The  child  is  swaddled  in  the 
nnnatural  manner  still  practised  by  Italian  mothers.- 

There  is  not  much  pottery  in  this  Museum  ;  enough  to  show 
the  characteristic  features  of  Yolterran  ware,  but  nothing  of  ex- 

probably  Grlauke,  for  whose  sake  Jason  had  Etruscans,   because  the   Fortune  of   Pr?e- 

deserted  the  sorceress.  neste  is  described  by  Cicero  (de  Divin.  II. 

7  Ovid.  Met.  YII.  21S.  -41)  as  nursing  the  infant  Jove.     Pausanias 

s  Inghirami  {TV.  p.  84)  suggests  that  it  (IX.  If),  2)  says  this  goddess  at  Thebes 
may  have  formed  the  door,  or  closing  slab,  was  represented  bearing  the  infant  Plutus 
of  a  tomb,  and  the  warrior  may  represent  in  her  arms.  Others  have  thought  this 
the  guardian  Lar.  The  cmtode  declares  tha.t  statue  might  be  Diana,  or  Ceres,  or  Juno 
it  formed  the  door  to  the  Grotta  dei  Mar-  with  the  infant  Hercules.  Gerhard,  how- 
mini,  ever,    thinks    it   represents    Eileithyia   or 

9  It  is  illustrated  by  Gori,  III.  cl.  4,  tav.  Juuo-Lucina,  the  goddess  of  Pyrgi.     Got- 

18,  2  ;    Inghirami,    YI.    tav.    A  ;  ilicali,  thciten   der  Etrusker,    pp.   3i>,   tJO.     The 

Ital.  av.  Rom.  tav.  14,  2  ;  Ant.  Pop.  Ital.  marble  of  which  it  is  formed  is  not  that  of 

tay.  51,  2.  Carrara,  but  a  grey  description,  which  is. 

1  The    inscription   woidd  run    thus   in  said  to  be  quarried  in  the  Tuscan  ilaremraa. 

Roman  letters —  In  Alberti's  time  this  statue  was  lying  in 

one  of  the  streets  of  Volterra,  together  with 
a  .statue  of  ilars,  "very  cunningly  wrought, 
and  sundiy  urns  of  alabaster,  storied  with 

-  Demp.ster,  tab.  42  ;  Gori,   III.  p.  60,  great  art,  on  which  are  certain  cliaracters, 

cl.  I.  tab.  9  ;  Gerhard,  Gottheit.  <1.  Etrusk.  understood  by  none,  albeit  many  call  them 

taf.  III.  1.     Some  have  thought  this  statue  Etruscan." 
represented  Xortia,  or  the  Fortune  of  the 


MI  •  KAXA  •  LARXniAS  TANK 
VEL  •  CHINET  •  MTH. 


CHAP.   XLIV.] 


PAINTED    VASES— BEONZES. 


189 


traordiiiiirv  interest.  The  paintcJ  vases  of  this  site  are  very 
inferior  to  those  of  Ynh-i,  Tarqninii,  or  Cliiusi.  Tlie  sliapes  are 
nntiainly,  the  chiy  is  coarse,  the  varnish 
neither  lustrous  nor  durable,  the  design 
of  peculiar  rudeness  and  rusticity. 
Staring  siUtoiictte  heads,  or  a  few  large 
figures  carelessly  sketched,  take  the 
place  of  the  exquisitely  designed  and 
delicately  finished  groups  on  the  best 
vases  of  Yulci.  Of  the  early  styles 
of  Etruscan  pottery — the  Egyptian 
and  the  Archaic  Greek — -with  black 
figures  on  the  yellow  ground  of  the 
clay,  Volterra  yields  no  examples. 
Yellow  figures  on  a  black  ground  betray 
a  more  recent  date,  and  the  best  speci- 
mens seem  but  unskilful  copies  of 
Etruscan  or  Greek  vases  of  the  latest 
style.  Ever3'thing  marks  the  decadence 
of  the  ceramographic  art.'' 

Yet  there  is  an  ancient  ware  of  great 
beauty,  almost  peculiar  to  Yolterra. 
It  is  of  black  clay,  sometimes  plain, 
sometimes  ribbed,  sometimes  deco- 
rated with  colour  and  with  figures  in 
relief;  but  in  simple  elegance  of  form, 
and  brilliancy  of  varnish,  it  is  not 
surpassed  b}'  the  ancient  potter}'  of 
any  other  site  in  Etruria. 

There  is  a  fair  collection  of  figured 
specula,  or  mirrors,  in  this  Museum — 
some  in  a  good  style  of  art.  The  most 
common  subject  is  a  winged  Lasa,  or 
Fate.  Among  the  bronzes  is  a  helmet 
with  cheek-pieces,  in  excellent  preserva- 
tion ;  numerous  small  figures  of  Lares 
or  other  divinities,  ea;-rofos,  among  them 
a  tall  Lenmr,  unnaturally  elongated, 
some  thirty  inches  high,  like  that  shown  bkoxze  figurk. 


3  Mioali  (l[oii.  lucd.  p.  216)  says  that 
most  beautiful  Greek  vases  have  been 
occasionally  found  on   this  site.     On  the 


other  hand,  vases  like  those  of  Volten-:v 
have  been  discovered  at  Tarquinii  and 
Orvieto. 


190 


YOLTERRA.— The  MusEr>r. 


[chap.  xliv. 


ill  the  woodcut;   besides  vandi'hOird,  sitiihc,  strigils,  knives,  flesh- 
hooks,  and  the  usual  metal  furniture  of  Etruscan  tombs. 

There  are  also  numerous  Etruscan  coins — many  belonging  to 
the  ancient  Volaterrit,  and  found  in  the  neighbt)urhood.     They 

are  all  of  copper,  cast,  not  struck — 
some  are  diipondii,  or  double  asses, 
full  three  inches  in  diameter,  with 
a  beardless  Janus-head,  wearing  a 
2}ctasus,  on  the  obverse,  and  a  dol- 
phin, with  the  word  "  Yelathri  " 
in  large  letters  around  it,  on  the 
reverse.  The  smaller  coins,  from  the 
as  down  to  the  unci  a,  differ  from 
these  in  having  a  club,  or  a  crescent, 
in  jilnce  of  the  dolphin.  The  Janus - 
head  is  still  the  arms  of  Volterra. 
The  dolphin  marks  the  maritime  power 
of  the  city  in  ancient  times. ^ 

Among  the  mmor  curiosities  jare 
spoons,  pins,  and  dice  of  ivory;  astra- 
r/ali,  or  huckle-bones,  which  furnished 
the  same  diversion  to  the  Greeks, 
Etruscans,  and  Romans,  as  to  school- 

^  yolterra  presents  a  more  complete  series  of 
coins  than  any  other  Etniscan  city.  But  they  are  all 
of  co2iper  ;  none  of  gold  or  silver.  The  as  has  some- 
times the  prow  of  a  ship  on  the  reverse,  as  in  that 
of  early  Rome  ;  and  sometimes  a  single  head,  instead 
of  the  Janus,  on  the  ohverse.  This  Janus-head  was 
put  on  coins,  says  Athenjeus  (XV.  c.  4(3),  hecause 
Janus  was  the  first  to  coin  money  in  bi-onze  ;  on 
which  account  many  cities  of  Greece,  Italy,  and 
Sicily  assumed  his  head  as  their  device.  Cf.  Macrob. 
Saturn.  I.  7.  But  Servius  (ad  Virg.  S.n.  XII.  198) 
gives  a  much  more  reasonable  explanation — that  it 
symbolised  the  union  of  two  peojile  under  one  govern- 
ment, and  this  interpretation  is  received  by  modern 
writers.  Lanzi,  Sagg.  II.  p.  98.  ilelchiorri.  Bull. 
Inst.  1839,  p.  113.  The  dolphin  is  understood  to 
mark  a  city  with  a  port — in  any  case  it  is  an  Etruscan 
symbol — Tijrrhenus  piscis.  These  coins  with  the 
legend  of  "  Velathri "  were  at  first  ascribed  to 
Yelitrae  of  the  Volsci,  but  their  reference  to  Volaterrie 
is  now  unquestioned.  I't  svpra,  jjage  139. 
The  coins  of  Velathri  are  illustrated  by  Lanzi,  11.  tav.  7  ;  Dempster,  I.  tab.  5G-9  ; 
Guarnacci,  Origini  Italiclie,  II.  tav.  20-22  ;  Inghirami,  III.  tav.  1,  and  4  ;  Marchi  and 
Tessieri,  .ks  grave,  cl.  III.  tav.  1.  See  also  Jliiller,  Etrusk.  I.  p.  332;  Lepsius, 
Ann.  Inst.  1841,  p.  105  ;  Bull.  Inst.  1838,  p.  189;  Mionnet,  Suppl.  I.  pp.  205-7. 


ETKDSCAN    CANDELABKUil. 


CHAP.  xMv.]  THE    ETRUSCAN    CnARUN".  lai 

boys  in  our  own  diiy  :  and  suiidiy  articles  in  variegated  glass, 
some  of  great  delicacy  and  Leant  v. 

There  is  also  a  collection  of  Etruscan  jewellerv — chains, //V^/z/r^ 
of  large  size,  rings  for  the  fingers,  with  ]^truscan  inscri})tions  ;  and 
large  ear-rings,  all  wrought  in  gold;  .^caralxei,  but  not  munerous; 
a  few  are  from  Egj'pt.  These  articles  are  not  found  in  such 
abundance  at  Volterra,  as  on  some  other  Etruscan  sites.  The 
most  CTU'ious  and  beautiful  jewellery  this  necropolis  has  yielded  is 
jireserved  in  the  Etruscan  Museum  at  Florence. 

In  the  Casa  Cinci  there  Avas  formerl}'  a  valuable  collection  of 
urns  and  other  Etruscan  relics,  but  the  greater  part  of  them  has 
now  been  sold.  In  the  Casa  (Jiorgi,  there  was  also  a  collection 
of  urns.'' 


APPENDIX    TO    CHAPTER   XLIV. 

XoTK. TlIK    ClIAUl'X    (IF   'I'HE    EtRUSCAXS. ScC  p.    1  S'J. 

Thk  Cliarun  ol'  the  Etruscans  was  liy  no  means  identical  with  tlie  (Jliai-on 
oi:  the  Greeks.  Dr.  Ambrosch,  in  his  work,  "  De  Charonte  Etrusco,"  en- 
(loavonrsto  show  that  tliere  was  no  analogy  between  them  ;  thoiigli  referring- 
the  origin  of  the  Etruscan,  as  of  the  Greek,  to  Eg_ypt  (Diod.  Sic.  I.  c.  'J'i, 
p.  82,  ed.  Khod.),  whence  Charon  was  introduced  into  Greece,  together  witli 
the  Orphic  doctrines,  between  the  .30th  and  40th  Olympiads  (GGO — G20  is.  c.)  ; 
and  though  he  thinks  the  Etruscan  Charun  owes  his  origin  immediately  t(< 
the  scenic  travesties  of  the  Greek  dramatic  poets.  Dr.  Braun  (Ann.  Inst. 
18,37,  2,  p.  2G0),  however,  who  rejects  this  Orphic  origin  of  the  Etruscan 
CliariMi,  and  thinks  him  Cabiric,  maintains  the  analogy  between  him  and  the 
aged  fenyman  of  Hellenic  mythology.  I'ut  in  the  Etruscan  system  he  is 
not  merely  "the  pilot  of  the  livid  lake  ;"  In's  ot'lice  is  also  to  destroy  life  ; 
to  conduct  shades  to  the  other  world  ;  and.  moreover,  to  torment  the  souls 
of  the  guilty. 

Like  tlie  ferryman  of  the  Styx,  tlie  Etruscan  Charun  is  generally  represented 
as  a  squalid  and  hideous  old  man,  with  flaming  eyes,  and  savage  aspect  ;  lint 
he  has,  moreover,  the  ears,  and  often  the  tusks,  of  a  brute,  and  has  generally 
negro  features  and  comi^lexion,  and  frequently  wings — in  short,  he  answers 
well,  cloven  feet  excepted,  to  the  modern  conception  of  the  devil.  See  the 
frontispiece  to  this  volume.  But  instead  of  hands  he  has  sometimes  lion's 
paws.  In  the  painted  tond)S  of  Etruria  he  is  generally  depicted  of  a  livid 
hue,  just  as  the  demon  Eurynomos,  who  devoured  the  desh  of  the  dead,  was 
])ainted  by  Bolygnotus  of  a  colour  between  lilack  and  blue,  like  that  of  llies 

■'•  One  of  these  represeiite'l  Polyplieiniis  urn  sliowetl  carpenters  ami  sawyere  at  tlieir 

issuing  from  liis  cave,  and  hurling  rocks  at  avocations  ;  this  is   interpreted   Viy  Micali 

Ulysses  in  his  .ship.     A  .Juno   interposes,  (op.   cit.   tav.   49),  as  the  building  of  the 

with  drawn  sword.     In  this  Etruscan  ver-  ship  Argo.     I  have  seen  a  similar  urn  iu 

sioii  of  the  myth,  the  Cyclops  has  two  eyes !  the  museum  of  Leyden. 
ilicali,    Ita).  av.  Kom.  tav.  45.     Another 


192  YOLTEEEA.— The  MusEr.v.  [chap.  xliv. 

Avliicli  settle  upon  meat  (Paus.  X.  28,  7).  He  is  distinguished,  however, 
principally  by  his  attributes,  chief  of  which  is  the  hammer  or  mallet ; 
but  he  has  sometimes  a  sword  in  addition,  or  in  place  of  it  ;  or  else  a 
nidder.  or  oar,  which  indicates  his  analogy  to  the  Charon  of  the  Greeks  ;  or 
a  forked  stick,  perhaps  equivalent  to  the  caduceus  of  Mercmy,  to  whom  as 
an  infernal  doity  he  also  corresponds  ;  or,  it  may  be,  a  torch,  or  snakes,  the 
usual  attributes  of  a  Fuiy. 

He  is  most  frequently  introduced  inter\-ening  in  cases  of  ^•iolent  death, 
and  in  such  instances  we  find  his  name  recorded  ;  as  in  the  relief  with  the 
<leath  of  Clyta?mnestra,  described  at  page  170,  and  as  on  a  pm^ely  Etniscan 
vase  from  Vulci,  m  which  Ajax  is  depicted  immolating  a  Trojan  captive, 
while  "  Chai-un  "  stands  by,  grinning  with  savage  delight  (Mon.  Ined.  Inst. 
11.  tav.  9) ;  and  as  m  the  Francois  paiiited  tomb  on  the  same  site  (Vol.  I.  p.  449). 

He  is  also  often  I'epresented  as  the  messenger  of  Death,  leading  or  {h-i\-ing 
the  horse  ouAvhich  the  soul  is  mounted  {ut  supra,  pp.  181,  182)  ;  or,  as  on  a 
vase  at  Rome,  and  another  from  Bomarzo,  now  at  Berlin,  accompanying  the 
car  in  Avhich  the  soul  is  seated  (Ann.  Inst.  1837,  2.  p.  2G1  ;  cf.  vol.  I.  p.  343 
of  this  work)  ;  or  attending  the  procession  of  souls  into  the  other  world,  as 
shown  in  the  Grotta  de'  Pompej,  of  Corneto  (Vol.  I.  pp.  331  et  seq. ;  cf.  Ann. 
Inst.  1834,  p.  275)  ;  though  this  scene  both  Braun  and  Ambrosch  regard  as 
not  so  much  a  real  representation  of  the  infernal  minister  and  his  charge,  as 
a  sort  of  theatrical  masquerade,  such  as  were  used  in  Bacchic  festivals. 

Charmi,  in  the  Etruscan  mjlhology,  is  also  the  tormentor  of  guiltj'  souls  ; 
and  his  mallet  or  sword  is  the  instrument  of  tortm-e.  Such  scenes  are 
represented  in  the  Grotta  Cardinale  at  Conieto  (Vol.  I.  p.  331  ;  cf.  Byers' 
Hypoga?i  of  Tarquinia,  Pt.  II.  pi.  6,  7,  Pt.  III.  pi.  5,  6  ;  Inghir.  Mon. 
Etms.  IV.  tav.  27.)  ;  and  in  the  Grotta  Tartaglia  at  the  same  jilace  (Vol.  I. 
p.  384  ;  Dempst.  II.  tab.  88  ;  Inghii-.  IV.  tav.  24)  ;  in  some  instances  the 
victim  is  depicted  sujiplicating  for  mercy  (Ann.  Inst.  1837,  2.  p.  2G8). 

In  many  of  these  scenes  it  is  (Hfficult  to  distinguish  between  Charun  and 
other  infernal  demons,  his  attendants,  who  cany  hammers  or  other  analogous 
attributes  ;  for  two  or  more  are  sometimes  introduced  in  the  same  scene,  as 
in  that  which  forms  the  fi'ontispiece  to  this  volume,  and  as  in  the  Grotta 
Cardinale  at  Corneto,  where  many  such  beings,  of  both  sexes,  are  similarl^^ 
armed.  They  maj"  generally  be  suj^posed  the  attendants  on  Charun.  Miiller, 
indeed,  considers  that  in  many  instances  these  demons  on  Etruscan  monuments 
represent  Mantus,  the  King  of  Hades  (Etnisk.  III.  4,  10),  as  the  Romans  in- 
troduced a  figure  of  Pluto,  armed  \\\t\\  a  hammer,  at  their  gladiatorial  combats, 
to  cany  off  the  slain  (Tertull.  ad  Xat.  I.  10).  Gerhard  also  (Gottheit.  d. 
Etnisk.  pp.  16,  56,  taf.  VI.  2,  3)  thinks  it  is  Mantus  who  is  often  represented  on 
these  urns,  especially  where  he  is  crowned,  though  he  distinguishes  the  beings 
with  hammers  and  other  attributes  generally  by  the  name  of  Charun.  Both 
Miiller  and  Gerhard  refer  the  origin  of  the  '•  ^Manducus  "  (Fest.  ap.  P.  Diac. 
suh  voce;  Plaut.  End.  II.  6,  51),  the  ridiculous  ettigy,  with  wide  jaws  and 
chattermg  teeth,  borne  in  the  public  games  of  the  Eomans,  to  this  source, 
and  consider  it  as  a  caricature  of  the  Etniscan  Charun,  or  leader  of  souls — 
Manducus — quasi  Manium  Dux.  But  Charun  must  be  regarded  rather  as  a 
muiister  of  Mantus,  than  as  identical  Avith  him.  He  is  often  represented  on 
Etruscan  urns,  accomjjanied  by  female  demons  or  Fates,  who,  in  other  cases, 
are  substituted  for  him.  Dr.  Ambrosch  fancied  that  the  sex  of  the  demons 
indicated  that  of  the  defunct  ;  but  female  Fates  or  Furies  are  often  intro- 
duced mto   scenes  which   represent   the  death   of  males,  as  in  the  mutual 


CHAP.  xLiv.]  THE    ETEUSCAN    CHAEUN.  1U3 

slangliter  of  tlic  Tlulmn  llnillicrs.  The  eyes  in  flic  wings  of  Cliaron,  or  of 
a  female  demon,  his  substitute,  have  already  been  mentioned  (at  p.  173) 
as  intimating  superhuman  power  and  intelligence. 

Miiller  suggests  that  the  Charun  of  the  early  Greek  traditions  may  have 
been  a  great  infernal  deit}^,  as  in  tln'  later  Greek  poems  ;  and  thinks  the 
Xapujvftoi  KXifiaKfs,  or  Charontic  steps,  of  the  (ircek  theatre,  iiulieate  a  greater 
extension  of  the  idea  than  is  usually  supposed. 

It  may  appear  strange  that  Charun  has  never  been  found  designed  on 
Etruscan  mirrors,  those  monuments  which  present  us,  as  Bunsen  remarks, 
with  a  iigurative  dictionary  of  Etruscan  mythology  (Bull.  Inst.  1836,  p.  18). 
This  must  be  explained  by  the  non-sepulchral  character  of  these  articles. 
TIic  Etruscan  lady,  while  dressing  her  hair  or  painting  her  cheeks,  would 
scarcely  relish  such  a  memorial  of  her  mortality  under  her  eyes,  but  would 
ju'efer  to  look  at  the  deeds  of  gods  or  heroes,  or  the  loves  of  Paris  and 
Helen.  Occasionally,  however,  it  must  be  confessed  that  scenes  of  a  funereal 
character  were  represented  on  these  mirrors. 

Charun  was  often  introduced  as  guardian  of  the  sepidchre — as  in  the 
painted  tomb  of  Vulci  (Vol.  I.  p.  4G6)  ;  as  in  that  of  Orvieto  (ut  supra,  p.  51)  ; 
and  as  also  in  a  tomb  at  Chiusi,  ojicncd  in  1837,  where  two  Charuns,  large 
as  life,  were  sculptured  in  high  relief  in  the  doorwaj",  threatening  the  intruder 
with  their  mallets  (Ann.  Inst.  1837,  2.  p.  258). 

It  has  been  renuirked  by  Miiller,  as  well  as  by  I'latner  in  his  "  Beschrei- 
Imng  dor  Stadt  Kom,"  that  the  Charun  Michael  Aiigelo  has  introduced  into 
his  celebrated  i)icture  of  the  Last  Judgment,  partakes  much  more  of  the  con- 
ception of  his  Etruscan  forefathers,  than  of  the  Greek  poets. 

The  mallet  is  considered  by  Dr.  Braun  rather  as  a  symbol,  or  distincti\o 
attribute,  than  as  an  instrument,  yet  it  is  occasionally  represented  as  such. 
In  one  instance  it  is  decorated  with  a  fillet  (Ann.  Inst.  1837,  2.  p.  260)  ;  in 
another  it  is  encircled  by  a  serpent  (Bull.  Inst.  1844,  p.  97).  In  every  case  it 
appears  to  have  an  infernal  reference  ;  in  the  Greek  mythology  it  is  either  the 
instrument  of  Vulcan,  of  the  Cyclops,  or  of  Jupiter  Serapis  ;  but  as  an  Etrus- 
can symbol  it  is  referred  by  Braun  to  the  Cabin,  in  whose  mysterious  worship 
he  thinks  Charun  had  his  seat  and  origin.  Gerhard,  who  embraced  the 
doctrine  of  the  northern  origin  of  the  Etruscans,  a  doctrine  acceptable  to 
Germans,  suggests  the  analogy  of  Thor  with  his  hanmier  ;  and  reminds  us 
that  in  the  northern  mythology  there  was  also  a  ferryman  for  the  dead  ;  that 
female  demons,  friendly  or  malignant,  were  in  readiness  to  carrj'  off  the  soul  ; 
and  that  even  the  horse,  as  in  Etruria,  was  present  for  the  swift  ride  of  tlii' 
dead  (Gottheiten  der  Etruskcr,  pp.  17,  57). 

For  further  notices  respecting  the  Etruscan  Charun,  see  the  work  of 
Ambrosch,  "  De  Charonte  Etrusco,"  and  the  review  of  it  by  Braun,  Ann. 
Inst.  1837,  2.  pp.  253 — 274,  to  which  I  am  largely  indebted  for  this  note. 
Ambrosch's  work  I  am  not  acquainted  with,  except  through  this  article  by 
Dr.  Braun. 


VOL,  ir. 


CHAPTER    XLV. 

THE   MAEEMMA. 

Guarda,  mi  disse,  al  mare  ;  e  vidi  piana 

Cogli  altri  colli  la  Marema  tutta, 

Dilectivole  molto,  e  poco  sana. 

Ivi  e  Massa,  Grossetto,  e  la  distructa 

Civita  vechia,  e  ivi  Popolonia, 

Che  apenna  pare  tanto  e  mal  conduta. 

Ivi  e  ancor  ove  fue  la  Sendonia, 

Queste  eita  e  altre  chio  non  dico, 

Sono  per  la  ^Marema  en  verso  Roma, 

Famose  e  grandi  per  lo  tempo  antico. 

Faccio  degli  Uberti. 

The  green  ilaremma  ! — 
A  sun-bright  waste  of  beauty^ — yet  an  air 
Of  brooding  sadness  o'er  the  scene  is  shed  ; 
Xo  human  footstep  tracks  the  lone  domain — 
The  desert  of  luxuriance  glows  in  vain. 

Hemaxs. 

These  lines  of  Mrs.  Hemaus  present  a  true  summer  picture 
of  the  Tuscan  Maremma ;  and  such  is  the  idea  generally  con- 
ceived of  it  at  all  seasons  alike  by  most  Englishmen,  except  as 
regards  its  beauty.  For  few  have  a  notion  that  it  is  other  than 
a  desert  seashore  swamp,  totally  without  interest,  save  as  a 
preserve  of  wild  boars  and  roe-bucks,  without  the  picturesque, 
or  antiquities,  or  good  accommodation,  or  anything  else  to 
compensate  for  the  dangers  of  its  fever-fraught  atmosx^here — in 
short, 

"  A  wild  and  melancholy  waste 
Of  putrid  marshes, " 

as  desolate  and  perilous  as  the  Pomptine.  They  know  not  that 
it  is  full  of  the  picturesque  and  beautiful ;  a  beauty  peculiar  and 
somewhat  savage,  it  is  true,  like  that  of  an  Indian  maiden,  yet 
fascinating  in  its  wild  mischooled  luxuriance,  and  offering  abun- 
dant food  for  the  pencil  of  the  artist  and  the  imagination  of  the 
poet.  They  think  not  that  in  summer  alone  it  is  unhealthy  ; 
tliat  from  October  to  May  it  is  as  free  from  noxious  vapours  as 


CHAP.  xLv.]  EOAD  FROM  YOLTEREA  TO  THE  MAREMMA.        19.) 

any  other  part  of  Italy,  and  may  be  visited  and  explored  with 
impunity.  They  scarcely  remember  that  it  contains  not  a  few 
sites  of  classical  interest ;  and  they  forget  that  it  has  excellent 
roads,  and  railroads,  which  bring  it  into  regular  communication 
with  Pisa,  Siena,  Florence,  and  Rome  ;  and  that  its  accommoda- 
tions are  as  good  as  will  be  found  on  most  by-roads  in  the 
Italian  Peninsula. 

The  road  that  runs  from  Yolterra  southward  to  the  Maremma 
is  "  carriageable  "  tlu'oughout,  though  somewhat  rugged  in  parts, 
and  nowhere  to  be  rejoiced  in  after  heavy  rains.  At  the  foot  of 
the  long-drawn  hill,  and  five  miles  fi'om  Volterra,  are  the  Saline, 
the  government  Salt-works,  Avhere  the  deep  wells  and  the  evapo- 
rating factories  are  well  worthy  of  inspection.  Through  the 
hollow  flows  the  Cecina  of  classical  renown,^  a  small  stream  in  a 
wide  sandy  bed,  between  wooded  banks,  and  here  spanned  by  a 
•suspension  bridge, — verily,  as  the  natives  sa}',  "  inia  (jran  hclla 
€Qsa ! "  in  the  midst  of  this  Avilderness.  From  the  wooded 
heights  bej'ond,  a  magnificent  view  of  Volterra,  with  her  mural 
diadem,  is  obtained.  A  few  miles  further  is  Pomarance,  a  neat 
little  town,  said  to  have  a  comfortable  inn.  Let  the  traveller 
then,  who  would  halt  the  night  somewhere  on  this  road,  remem- 
ber the  same,  especially  if  it  be  his  intention  to  visit  the  cele- 
brated borax-works  of  Monte  Cerboli,  about  six  miles  distant.^ 
At  Castelnuovo,  a  village  some  ten  or  twelve  miles  be3'ond 
Pomarance,  I  can  promise  him  little  comfort.  All  this  district, 
even  beyond  Castelnuovo  and  Monterotondo,  is  boracic,  and  the 
hills  on  every  hand  are  ever  shooting  forth  the  hot  and  fetid 
vapour  in  numerous  tall  white  columns,  which,  by  moonlight  on 
their  dark  slopes,  look  like  "  quills  upon  the  fretful  porcupine." 

Some  miles  beyond  Castelnuovo,  the  road,  which  has  been 
■continually  ascending  from  the  Cecina,  attains  its  greatest  eleva- 
tion. Here  it  commands  a  prospect  of  vast  extent,  over  a  wide 
expanse  of  undulating  country  to  the  sea,  nearl}'  twenty  miles 
distant,  with  the  promontory  of  Piombino  and  Populonia  rising 
like  an  island  from  the  deep,  and  the  lofty  peaks  of  Elba  seen 

'  Pliny  (III.  8)  shows  tliat  the  river  had  referred  to  it  as  a  river,  as  Cluver  (II.  p. 

the   same    name    in   his    time,    "liuviiis  4G9)  opines,  who  woiikl  read  the  passage — 

Oiecinna," — how  much  earlier  we  know  not ;  "Etrusca  et  loca  et  flumina,"  in.stcad   of 

but  prohaljly  from  veiy  remote  times.  ]\Iela  the  current  version — "  loca  et  uomina." 
<II.  4)  speaks  of  it  among  the  towns  on  -  An  excellent  description  of  these  works 

this  coast.  But  he  may  have  cited  "Cecina,"  is  given  in  Murray's  Handbook.     See  also 

instead    of    Vada   Volaterrana,    the    port  Repetti,   vv.  Lagoui,    :\Ionte   Cerboli,    To- 

wbich  was  near  its  mouth  ;  or  he  may  have  marance. 


196  THE    :NL\EEM^L\.  [chap.  xlv. 

dimly  in  tlie  fiu-  horizon.  Among  the  miduktions  at  the  foot  of 
the  height,  which  the  road  here  crosses,  is  the  hill  of  Castiglione 
Bernardi,  which  Inghiranii  pronounced  to  he  the  site  of  the 
Yetiilonia  of  antiquity. 

Though  I  had  taken  this  road  with  the  intention  of  visitmg 
this  hill,  I  failed  to  reach  it,  heing  deterred  hy  one  of  those 
sudden  deluges  of  rain  common  in  southern  climates,  which 
burst  like  a  water-spout  upon  me,  just  as  I  had  begun  to 
descend ;  and  I  therefore  regained  the  shelter  of  my  carrcttino 
with  all  speed,  and  made  the  best  of  my  way  to  Massa.  I  passed 
this  site  with  the  less  regret,  for  my  friend,  Mr.  Ainsley,  had 
twice  previously  visited  the  spot  fmiiished  with  directions  from 
Inghirami  hunself,  and  had  sought  in  vain,  in  a  careful  exami- 
nation of  the  ground,  for  any  remains  of  Etruscan  antiquity,  or 
for  any  traces  of  an  ancient  city  of  importance.  He  fomid  it,  as 
Inghirami  indeed  had  described  it,  "  a  circumsciibed  mound,  not 
more  than  half  a  mile  in  cu'cuit,  and  quite  incapable  of  holding 
a  city  such  as  Vetulonia  must  have  been."  On  it  were  to  be 
seen  only  the  ruins  of  a  castle  of  the  middle  ages,  overgi'own 
with  enormous  oaks,  and  he  could  not  "  perceive  among  the 
extant  masom-y  a  single  stone  which  bore  a  trace  of  ancient 
TjTrhene  construction,  such  as  might  correspond  with  the 
remains  of  the  Etruscan  city  of  Vetulonia."''  AVhy  then  did 
Inghirami  suppose  this  to  have  been  the  site  of  that  famous 
city?  Fii'st — because  he  finds  the  hill  so  called  in  certain 
documents  of  the  middle  ages,  one  as  far  back  as  the  eleventh 
century.^     Secondly — because  it  is  not  far  fi-om  the  river  Cornia, 

^  Ingliirami,  Kicerciie  'li  Vetulonia,  pp.  Vetus,    Arretium   Fidens,    and   Arretium 

35,  36,  52.     Publi.shed   also   in    the  ile-  Julium.     It  must  also  be  remembered  that 

morie  deir  Instituto.  IV.  pp.  95-136.  the  nomencL\ture  of  the  middle  ages  is  no 

■•  RIc.  di  Vetul.  p.  29  ;  cf.  Repetti  V.  evidence  of  that  of  more  early  times, 
p.  706.  How  this  spot  acquired  the  name  Through  the  fond  partiality  of  an  eccle- 
of  Vetulonium  -nhich  it  bore  during  the  siastic  for  his  native  place,  or  the  blunder 
middle  ages,  it  is  not  ea-sy  to  say.  That  it  of  some  antiquaiy,  ancient  names  were 
bore  this  appellation  in  Etruscan  times  we  often  attached  to  sites,  to  which  they  did 
have  no  proof.  Tliat  the  names  of  places  not  belong.  Such  en-ors  would  soon  how- 
were  often  altered  Ijv  the  ancients  we  have  ever  become  traditional  with  the  peojjle, 
evidence  in  Etniria  and  its  confines —  anxious  to  maintain  the  honour  of  their 
Gamers  was  changed  to  Clu.sium,  AgyUa  to  native  town,  and  would  even  pass  into- 
Csere,  Aurinia  to  Satumia,  Nequinum  to  their  documents  and  monumental  inscrip- 
Namia,  Pel.  ina  to  Bononia — and  we  know  tions.  Thus  it  was  that  Civita  Castellana 
that  the  name  of  a  town  was  sometimes  was  made  the  ancient  \'eii ;  and  thus^ 
transferred  from  one  site  to  another,  as  in  Annio's  forgeries  and  capricious  nomen- 
Falerii  and  Volsinii — and  that  names  were  clature  became  current  for  ages  in  the  tra- 
occasionally  multiplied  we  see  in  Clusium  ditions  of  the  people. 
Vetus  and  Clusium  Novum ;  in  Arretium 


CHAP.  XLV.]         PEETENDED    SITE    OF    VETULOXIA.  197 

■which  abounds  in  liot  springs,  some  of  whicli  lie  thinks  must 
liave  been  tliose  mentioned  by  Pliny  as  existing, — ad  Vctu- 
loiiios;"''  besides  being  in  tlie  immediate  neighboiu'liood  of  a 
hike — Lago  Cerchiaio — of  hot  sulphureous  water.  Tliirdly — 
because  a  few  Etruscan  tombs  liave  been  fomid  in  tlie  vicinity. 
Fourthly — and  on  this  Inghirami  lays  most  stress — because  the 
situation  assigned  to  Vetulonia  b}'  Ptoleni}^  Avas  in  the  district 
comprised  between  Volterra,  Siena,  and  Populonia,''  which  he 
thinks  may  correspond  with  this  hill  of  Castiglione  Bernardi. 
Nevertheless,  so  little  could  he  reconcile  this  circumscribed  site 
with  that  of  a  first-rate  city,  such  as  Vetulonia  is  described  to 
have  been,  that  he  was  driven  to  suppose  the  existence  of  two 
ancient  cities  or  towns  of  that  name — the  one  of  great  renown 
lying  on  the  northern  slopes  of  the  Ciminian ;  the  other,  that 
famous  for  hot  springs,  occupying  this  hill  of  Castiglione. '^ 

The  views  of  the  late  Cavaliere  Inghirami,  coming  from  a  man 
of  approved  archseological  eminence,  are  entitled  to  all  respect. 
But  he  broached  them  in  this  instance  without  confidence,  and  in 
ignorance  of  another  site  in  the  Maremma,  which,  had  he  known 
it,  he  would  have  admitted  to  have  much  stronger  claims  to  be 
regarded  as  that  of  the  ancient  Vetulonia.  Let  it  here  suffice  to 
mention  that  Mr.  Ainsley's  description  and  sketches  of  Castiglione 
Bernardi  represent  it  in  entire  accordance  with  the  admission  of 
Inghirami,  as  a  small,  isolated,  conical  hill,  about  the  size  of  the 
Poggio  di  Gajella  at  Chiusi,  certainly  not  so  large  as  the  Cas- 
tellina  at  Tarquinii — a  mere  " por/getto  angiLsto,''  or  "  monticello," 
to  use  Inghii'ami's  own  words,  without  any  level  space  that  could 
admit  of  an  Etruscan  town,  even  of  fourth  or  fifth-rate  import- 
ance. M.  Noel  des  Vergers  also  was  convinced  by  the  evidence 
of  his  own  eyes,  that  it  was  impossible  for  the  Poggio  di  Castig- 
lione Bernardi  to  have  been  the  site  of  an  ancient  city.^  To  wliich 
I  may  add,  that  if  this  were  an  Etruscan  site,  as  the  neighbouring 

^  Plin.  N.  II.  II.  106.  Vetulonia,  and  fell  back  upon  his  hill  of 

*  Eic.  di.  Yetul.  j).  93.     But  how  little  Castiglione.     His   opinion   that   this   was 

Ptolemy  is  to  be  trusted — how  full  he  is  of  the  site  of  Vetulonia  is  supported  by  Dr. 

errors  and  inconsistencies,  that  if  the  towns  Anibrosch,  who  to  reconcile  this  mean  site 

of  Etruria  were  arranged  according  to  the  with  that  of  Vetulonia  is  driven  to  attem]>t 

latitudes  and  longitudes  he  assigns  to  them,  to  invalidate  tlie  evidence  of  Silius  Italicus 

we  should  liave  an  entirely  new  map  of  the  as  to  the  importance  and  grandeur  of  that 

land— I.  have  shown  at  length  in  an  article  ancient  city.     I   have  replied  to   his  ob- 

in   the  Classical  Museum,   1844,  No.   V.  jections  in  the  above-mentioned  paper  in 

pp.  2"29-246.  the  Classical  JIuseum. 

'  Ricerche  di  Vetulonia,  p.  50.     He  ulti-  ^  Etrurie  et  les  Etrusfpies,  I.  p.  42. 

niately  gave   up   the  idea  of  a  Ciminian 


198  THE    LL\.EEMM.l.  [chai>.  xlv. 

toinlts  seem  to  iudicate,  it  can  have  been  only  one  of  the  thousand 
and  one  "  villages  and  castles  " — castdla  vicique — which  existed 
in  this  land.  The  traveller  may  rest  satisfied  that  no  remains  of 
an  Etruscan  town  are  to  be  seen  on  the  spot.  Should  he  wish  to 
verify-  the  fact,  he  will  find  accommodation  at  Monte  Rotondo,  a 
town  two  or  three  miles  from  the  Poggio  of  Castiglione  ;  and  he 
can  see,  in  the  house  of  Signor  Baldasserini,  the  proprietor  of 
this  tovtta,  a  number  of  vases  and  other  Etruscan  antiquities, 
discovered  in  the  neighbourhood. 

A  descent  of  many  miles  through  a  wild  tract  of  oak  forests, 
underwooded  with  tamarisk,  laurestinus,  and  brushwood,  leads  to 
the  plain  of  JNIassa.  That  city  crowns  the  extremit}'  of  a  long 
range  of  heights,  and  from  a  distance  somewhat  resembles 
Harrow ;  but  its  walls  and  towers  give  it  a  more  imposing  air. 
Though  the  see  of  a  bishop,  with  nearly  3000  inhabitants,  and 
one  of  the  principal  cities  of  the  Maremma,  Massa  is  a  mean, 
dirty  place,  without  an  inn — unless  the  chandler's  shop,  assuming 
the  name  of  "  Locanda  del  Sole,"  maybe  so  called.  The  Duomo 
is  a  small,  neat  edifice,  of  the  thirteenth  century,  in  the  Byzantine 
style,  with  a  low  dome  and  a  triple  tier  of  arcades  in  the  facade. 
The  interior  is  not  in  keeping,  being  spoilt  by  modern  additions, 
and  has  nothing  of  interest  beyond  a  very  curious  font  of  early 
date,  formed  of  a  single  block. 

Massa  has  been  supposed  by  some  to  occupy  the  site  of 
Yetulonia,  an  opmion  founded  principally  on  the  epithet  "  Veter- 
nensis,"  attached  to  a  town  of  this  name  by  Ammianus  Marcel- 
linus,''  the  only  ancient  writer  who  speaks  of  Massa,  and  which  is 
regarded  as  a  corruption  of  "  Yetuloniensis."  The  towns-people, 
ready  to  catch  at  anything  that  would  confer  dignity  on  their 
native  place,  have  adopted  this  opinion,  and  it  has  become  a  local 
tradition  ;  not  to  be  the  more  credited  on  that  account.  I  have 
little  doubt,  iKnvever,  that  there  was  originally  an  Etruscan 
population  on  the  spot.  Adjoining  the  town,  to  the  south-east, 
is  a  height,  or  rather  a  cliif-bound  table-land,  called  Poggio  di 
A^etreta,  or  A'uetreta,  which  has  all  the  features  of  an  Etruscan 
site.  It  is  about  a  mile  in  length,  and  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
in  its  greatest  breadth ;  it  breaks  into  clifl's  on  all  sides,  except 
where  a  narrow  isthmus  unites  it  to  the  neighbouring  heights. 
No  fragments  of  ancient  walls  could  I  perceive  ;  but  there  are 
not  a  few  traces  of  sepulchres  in  the  cliffs.^     It  is  highly  probable 

'■*  Amm.     jMaicell.    XIV.    11,    27.       He       Ctesar,  the  lu-otljer  of  Julian  tlic  Apostate. 
peaks  of  it  as   tlie  Lirtb-placc  of  Galliis  '  In  the  clifi's  just  opiiosite  tlie  Catliedral 


CHAP.    XLV.] 


MASSA    MARITTIMA. 


199 


that  the  original  name  of  this  town  is  to  be  traced  in  its  Roman 
appellation  (if  that,  indeed,  belong  to  this  site),"  which  indicates, 
not  Vetulonia,  but  rather  Voltnrnus  or  Volturna  as  its  root ;  and 
the  town  may  have  taken  its  name  from  a  shrine  to  one  of  those 
Etruscan  deities,  on  or  near  the  spot.' 

The  rock  is  here  a  rich  red  tufo,  much  indurated,  and  pic- 
turesquely overhung  with  ilex.  Traces  of  volcanic  action  are 
occasionally  met  with  in  this  part  of  Italy,  though  the  higher 
mountains  are  of  limestone,  sandstone,  or  cla}'  slate. 

This  height  commands  a  magnificent  view.  The  wide  Maremma 
lies  outspread  at  your  feet,  and  the  eye  is  led  across  it  by  a  long 
straight  road  to  the  village  of  Follonica  on  the  coast,  some  twelve 
or  thirteen  miles  distant.  Monte  Calvi  rises  on  the  right,  over- 
hanging the  deep  vale  of  the  Cornia ;  and  many  a  village  sparkles 
out  from  its  wooded  slopes.  The  heights  of  Piombino  and 
l^^pulonia  rise  beyond  it,  forming  the  northern  horn  of  the  Bay 
of  Follonica;  the  headland  of  Troja,  with  its  subject  islet,  forms 
the  southern  ;  the  tow^er-capped  islet  of  Cerboli  rises  between 
them ;  and  the  dark,  abrupt  peaks  of  Elba,  the  dim  island  of 
]\Ionte  Cristo,  and  the  deep  blue  line  of  the  Mediterranean, 
bound  the  horizon.^ 


are  some  sepulchral  niches,  and  so  also  in 
the  rocks  beneath  IMassa  itself.  I\Ir.  Aiusley 
observed,  in  the  cliffs  of  the  Poggio  di 
Yetreta,  some  passages  running  far  into 
the  rock,  like  the  Buche  de'  Saracini  at 
Yolterra.  They  were  probably  sewers. 
]'>elow  this  height  there  is  also  a  Griardino 
(li  Vuetreta.  This  name  has  been  supposed 
to  Ije  derived  from  Vetulonia,  but  is  more 
probably  a  corruption  of  the  Latin  ai)i)ella- 
tion  of  the  town  ;  if  it  lie  not  rather  tracea- 
ble to  the  glass-factories,  ouce  common  in 
this  district.  Ingliir.  Hie.  di  Vetul.  p.  3t) ; 
-Mcmor.  Inst.  IV.  p.  120.  Ximenes  (cited 
by  Inghirami,  op.  cit,  p.  62)  asserts  the 
cun-cncy  of  a  tradition  at  Massa,  that  in  a 
ilense  wood  five  miles  west  of  that  town, 
arc  the  ruins  of  the  city  of  Vetulonia  ;  but 
Inghirami  ascribes  this  tradition  to  its  true 
source,  ivs  will  presently  be  shown. 

-  Repetti  (III.  p.  139)  does  not  thiidv 
there  is  sufficient  authority  for  identifying 
the  Jla-ssa  Vetcrnensis  of  Marcellinus  with 
this  town  of  ^lassa  Marittima  ;  for  he  shows 
(cf.  p.  109)  that  numerous  jilaces,  not  only 
in  Tuscany,  but  in  the  Papal  State,  esi)c- 
cially  in  the  southern  district  of  Etruria, 


had  the  title  of  Massa,  i.e.,  "a  large  estate," 
in  the  middle  ages,  most  of  which  have 
now  dropped  it.  He  inclines  to  recognise 
the  birth-place  of  Gallus  in  Viterbo,  and 
would  read  "Massa  Veterbensis,"  instead 
of  "  Veternensis."  Cluver  (II.  p.  513), 
however,  did  not  hesitate  to  identify  the 
modern  JIassa  with  that  of  A.  Marcellinus. 

•*  For  Voltnrnus  and  Volturna,  or  Ver- 
tumnus  and  Voltumna,  see  Chap.  XXXVI. 
p.  33.  Veternensis,  de^irived  of  its  Latin 
adjectival  termination,  becomes  Veterni  or 
Veterna,  which  seems  nothing  but  a  cor- 
ruption of  the  Etruscan  Velturna,  or  Vel- 
thurna,  the  Latin  Volturnus,  according  to 
the  frequent  Roman  substitution  of  o  for 
the  Etruscan  e.  Velthur  or  Velthurna 
was  also  an  Etruscan  proi)er  name,  fre- 
quently found  inscribed  on  the  walls  of 
tombs  and  on  sepulchral  monuments,  and 
may  have  had  the  same  relation  to  this 
town,  that  the  ancient  family  Coecina  had 
to  the  river  of  that  name. 

'•  Massa  is  38  miles  from  Volterra,  40 
from  Siena,  16  from  Castelnuovo,  20  from 
Piombino,  2-1  from  Populonia,  2i  from 
Campiglia,  30  from  Grosseto. 


200  THE    MAREMMA.  [chap.  xlv. 

Its  elevated  position  might  be  supposed  to  secure  Massa  from 
the  pestiferous  atmosphere  of  the  Maremma  ;  but  such  is  not  the 
case.  The  city  does  not  sufier  so  much  as  others  on  lower 
ground,  yet  has  a  bad  name,  proverbialised  by  the  saying, 

Massa,  Massa — 
Salute  passa. 

It  is  a  dreary  road  to  Follonioa  across  the  plain.  Let  the 
traveller,  however,  drive  on  rather  than  pass  the  night  at  Massa  ; 
for  the  inn,  though  of  no  high  pretensions,  is  far  more  comfort- 
able at  the  former  jdace.  Follonica,  indeed,  is  much  more 
frequented,  lying  on  the  rail-road  fi-om  Eome  to  Leghorn  and 
Pisa,  having  a  little  port  and  large  ii'on  factories  where  the  ore 
brought  from  Elba  is  smelted.  This  industrious  little  village 
appears  quite  civilised  after  the  dream}-  dulness  of  Massa.^ 

In  the  former  edition  of  this  work,  it  was  stated  that  on  the 
coast  between  Leghorn  and  Populonia  there  were  no  sites  or 
objects  of  Etruscan  antiquity.  Since  the  date  of  its  publication, 
the  researches  of  ^L  Xoel  des  Vergers,  who  devoted  ten  years  to 
excavations  in  the  Maremma,  availing  himself  of  the  experience  of 
Signor  Alessandro  Francois,  have  brought  to  light  various  sites  of 
interest,  to  which  discoveries  he  makes  modest  reference  in  his 
great  work  on  Etruria.  "  Dans  la  plaine  ondulee  qui  s'etend 
de  la  Mediterranee  a  I'Apennin,  les  hauteurs  de  Piiparbella,  de 
Guardistalla,  de  Bibbona,  de  Bolgari,  sont  entourees  de  tumulus, 
tombes  isolees  ou  hypogees  de  famille,  annoncant  I'ancienne 
existence  de  centres  de  population.  A  Beloria,  entre  autres, 
entre  Piparbella  et  la  mer,  sur  la  route  qui  conduit  des  Ma- 
remmes  a  Yolterra,  les  coUines  qui  bordent  la  rive  droite  du 
fleuve  recelent  une  veritable  neeropole,  trop  eloignee  de  Yolaterrte 
ou  de  Populonia  pour  pouvoir  etre  rattachee  a  I'une  de  ces 
vieilles  cites.  Et  ce  ne  sont  pas  seulement  des  tombeaux  qui 
attestent  I'ancienne  pojiulation  de  ces  contrees  desertes,  mais 
souvent  des  mines  remontant  a  la  periode  etrusque  ou  romaine 
n'ont  jDas  ete  si  bien  cachees  par  la  vegetation  des  forets,  qu'elles 
ne  se  montrent  au  voyageur  des  qu'il  s'ecarte  de  la  route.  On 
pent,  en  cheminant  le  long  de  cette  cote,  tantot  en  vue  de  la  mer, 
tantot  au  milieu  des  bois  de  chenes-lieges,  des  bouquets  d'yeuses 

"  Abeken    thinks    that   the   abandoned  Caldana  as  the  site  of  tliese  mines.     Tlicy 
mines,  which  Strabo  (V.  p.  223)  saw  in  the  are  jirobably  those    which  have    been    re- 
neighbourhood    of   Populonia,    must    have  opened  of  late  with  great  success  in  the 
Vjeen   at   Follonica.     Mittelitalien,   p.    30.  vicinity  of  Campiglia. 
Uut  IMiJller  (Etrusk.    I.   p.   240)  mentions 


CHAP.  XLV.J    ETRUSCAN    SITES    IN    TIIE    MAREMMA.  201 

ou  de  lentisques.  s'imaginer  qu'ou  y  retrouvera  les  mines  de 
(juelques  villes  ignorees,  et  qu'on  va  voir  apparaitre  ce  (^ui  pent 
Tester  encore  de  ces  cites  perdnes  qu'on  appelait  Caletra,  Suder- 
tiim,  Salpinum,  Statonia,  Manliana,  Vetulonia,  &c.,  liiania  rcjjna, 
I'oyaumes  vides,  ne  contenant  plus  que  la  poussiere  des  peuples 
qui  les  ont  fondes."^ 

The  necropolis  at  Beloria,  mentioned  in  the  ahove  extract,  as 
among  the  hills  several  miles  from  the  sea,  probably  belonged  to 
the  Etruscan  town  of  Cfficina,  wliich  la}'^  between  Populonia  and 
Pisa.'''  Here  were  discovered  a  warrior  tomb,  several  family 
sepulchres,  and  many  others  of  more  ordmary  character.  xVmong 
their  contents  may  be  specified  two  cinerary  urns  whose  mouths 
were  found  covered  with  thin  sheets  of  gold  ;  painted  vases  of 
inferior  art ;  vessels  of  bronze,  one  of  elegant  form ;  a  figured 
mirror  of  the  same  metal ;  sundry  rings  of  gold,  one  of  them  set 
with  a  scarabeus  of  amethyst,  bearing  the  figure  of  a  stork,  and  a 
magnificent  pair  of  gold  earrings  of  large  size,  and  of  extreme 
elegance,  wrought  with  the  utmost  elaboration  of  which  Etruscan 
art  is  capable.^  The  site  of  the  ancient  Csecina  has  not  been 
determined,  but  it  was  probably  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
modern  village  called  Fitto  di  Cecina,  which  is  of  quite  recent 
construction,  and  where  travellers  on  their  way  to  Volterra  will 
find  a  tolerable  inn.  The  ancient  port  of  Yada  Yolaterrana, 
near  the  mouth  of  the  Cecina,  is  not  mentioned  as  Etruscan, 
though  it  seems  very  improbable  that  the  maritime  city  of 
Yolaten-jje  would  not  have  availed  itself  of  it,  and  of  the  com- 
munication with  the  sea  afforded  by  the  Crecina.'^ 

In  the  wide  plain  between  Cecina  and  Bolgheri  there  are 
numerous  tumuli,  showing  that  of  old  there  must  have  been  a 
dense  jiojiulation  in  this  region,  now  so  sparsely  inhabited.  At 
three  miles  to  the  S.  E.  of  Cecina  one  of  large  size,  called  La 


*  L'Etrurie  et  les  Etrusques,  I.  p.  15.  at  the  commencement  of  the  fifth  century 

'  P.  .Mela,  II.  4.  of  our  era  (Rutil.  I.  46(5-475  ;  vi.  MiiUer, 

8  Bull.  Inst.  1850,  p.  78.  Etrusk.  I.  pp.  406,  418),  which  Kepetti  (I. 

"  Vada    is    mentioned    by    Cicero,    ytro  \i.  65\  places  on  the  neighbouring  height  of 

^uintio,  c  VI ;  Pliny,  III.  8  ;  Ilutiliiis,  1.  Rosignano,   where  there  are  some  ancient 

453;  and  the  Itineraries.     It  must  liave  remains,  called  "Villana."     JL  Noel  des 

received  its  narue  from  the  swami)s  in  the  Vergers,  however,  has  fixed  the  site  of  this 

neighbourhooil.      Uut    it    was   a   i^ort,    as  villa  on  a  rising  ground  near  the  Fitto  di 

Rutilius  shows,   and  it  .still    affords   pro-  Cecina,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  and 

t€ction  to  sma'.l  vessels.     There  are  said  to  about  a  mile  from  its  mouth,  where  extant 

be  some  Roman  remains  there.     Here  were  remains  indicate  a  Roman  villa  of  great 

also    some    ancient   Salt-works,    and    the  extent  and  splendour.      13ull.    Inst.  1850, 

villa  of  Albinus  Cecina,  who  resided  here  pi'.  75-77. 


202  THE    MAEEMMA.  [chap.  xlv. 

Cucumella,  was  probed  by  M.  des  Vergers,  and  found  to  contain  a 
tomb  constrncted  of  masonry,  but  it  had  been  ritied  in  ancient 
times,  and  contained  nothing  to  repay  the  excavator.^ 

Bibbona,  which  stands  on  a  height  about  six  miles  from  the 
sea,  lias  been  ascertained  to  occup}'  an  Etruscan  site.  Beneath 
its  castle,  was  found  a  deposit  of  no  less  than  52  bronzes  of  most 
archaic  Etruscan  character,  many  of  which  are  now  in  the 
^Museum  at  Florence."  Near  Castagneto,  which  lies  half-way 
up  the  wooded  slopes,  about  three  miles  inland  from  the  station 
of  that  name,  some  remains  of  ancient  walls  have  been  discovered 
by  Sigiior  Gamurrini,  which  were  thought  by  him  to  mark  the 
site  of  Vetulonia,-^  long  supposed  to  have  stood  in  this  district 
of  the  Maremma.  After  this  station  the  hills  api)roach  the  sea, 
and  the  railway-  skirting  the  wild  thickets  of  the  Maremma, 
reaches  the  shore  at  Torre  San  Yincenzo.  This  is  a  village, 
with  a  large  church,  and  an  old  tower  of  the  thirteenth  century. 
The  railway  follows  nearly  the  line  of  the  old  post-road,  and  of 
the  ancient  Via  Aurelia,  which  may  be  traced  b}'  fragments  all 
along  this  coast.'^  From  Torre  S.  A^incenzo  a  road  runs  S.  E.  to 
Campiglia  high  among  the  hills,  and  another  along  the  coast, 
skirting  the  Maremma  jungle,  to  Populonia,  whose  ruined  towers 
are  seen  cresting  the  wooded  headland  to  the  south.  The  railway 
runs  between  these  two  roads,  having  the  heights  of  Campiglia  to- 
the  left,  and  the  wide  corn-plain  in  front  and  to  the  right,  which 
it  crosses  on  its  way  to  the  station  of  Campiglia.  Hard  by  this 
station  are  Le  Caldane,  the  hot  springs,  which  have  been  regarded 
by  Inghirami  and  earlier  writers,  as  the  aqiics  Calldce  ad  Vetii- 
lonlos  of  Pliny. ^  They  are  still  used  as  hot  baths.  From  this 
station  a  road  of  three  miles  leads  to  Campiglia,  and  another  of 
seven  miles  across  the  plain  to  Populonifu  Of  this  Etruscan  site, 
I  shall  treat  at  length  in  the  next  chajitcr.  A  mile  or  so  beyond 
the  station  you  cross  the  Cornia,  which  flows  out  from  the  wide 
valley  on  the  left,  between  the  heights  of  Massa  and  Campiglia,''' 
and  after  nine  more  miles  across  the  wide  plain  reach  the  shore 
again  at  the  little  jjort  of  Follonica. 

Well  do  I  remember  my  first  visit  to  the  Marennna,  more  than 
thirty  years  ago.     Everything  was  then  in  a  state  of  primitive 

'  r.ull.  Inst.  1S.">0,  p.  7S.  •■'  riiii.  N.  II.  II.  lOG. 

-  IjuII.  Inst.  18G-I,  p.  138.  ''  The   Covnia   is   sui)posei.l    to    be   the 

•'  liull.  Inst.  IStJS,  p.  134.  Lynceus  of  Lycophron  (Cassand.   1240),  a 

■'  For  the  stations  and  distances  on  the  river  of  Etruria  which  abounded  in   hot 

Via  Aurelia,  from  Cosa  to  Luna,  see  the  sjirings.  Chiver.  II.  p.  472.     Inghir.  Ric. 

Appendix  to  tills  Cliapter.  di  Vetul.  p.  26. 


cHAi>.  XLV.]     ITS    W00D8    AND    WASTl']NIvS.S    WlJJi:.  203 

nature ;  a  dense  wood  ran  wild  over  tlie  plain ;  it  could  not  be 
called  a  forest,  for  there  was  scarcely  a  tree  twenty  feet  in  height; 
but  a  tall  underwood  of  tamarisk,  lentiscus,  myrtle,  dwarf  cork- 
trees, and  numerous  shrubs  unknown  to  me,  fostered  by  the  heat 
and  moisture  into  an  extravagant  luxuriance,  and  matted  together 
by  parasitical  plants  of  various  kinds.  Here  a  break  otfered  a 
peej:)  of  a  stagnant  lagoon  ;  there  of  the  sandy  Tomljolo,  Avith  the 
sea  breaking  over  it ;  and  above  the  foliage  I  could  see  tiie  dark 
crests  of  Monte  Calvi  on  the  one  hand,  and  the  loft}'  promontory 
of  Poi)ulonia  on  the  other.  Habitations  there  were  none  in  this 
wilderness,  save  one  lonel}'  house  on  a  rising-ground.  If  a  path- 
wa}'  opened  into  the  dense  thickets  on  either  hand,  it  was  the 
track  of  the  wild  beasts  of  the  forest.  Man  seemed  to  have  here 
no  dominion.  The  boar,  the  roebuck,  the  buffalo,  and  wild  cattle 
had  the  undisputed  range  of  the  jungle.  It  was  the  "  woods  and 
wasteness  Avide  "  of  this  Maremma,  that  seized  Dante's  imagina- 
tion when  he  pictured  the  Infernal  wood,  inhabited  by  the  souls 
of  suicides, 

tin  bosco 

Che  da  nossun  sentiero  era  segnato. 
Non  frondi  verdi,  ma  di  color  fosco  ; 

Non  rami  schietti,  ma  nodosi  e  'nvolti  ; 
Non  pomi  v'  eran,  ma  stecchi  con  tosco. 

Non  lian  si  aspri  sterjii,  no  si  folti 
Quelle  fiere  selvegge,  che  'n  odio  hanno 

Tra  Cecilia  e  Corneto  i  luoglii  colti. 

After  some  miles  there  were  a  few  traces  of  cultivation — strips 
of  land  by  the  road-side  redeemed  from  the  waste,  and  sown  with 
corn  ;  yet,  like  the  clearings  of  American  backwoods,  still  studded 
with  stumps  of  trees,  showing  the  struggle  with  which  nature  had 
been  subdued.  At  this  cool  season  the  roads  had  a  fair  sprinkling 
of  travellers — labt)urers  going  to  work,  and  not  a  few  pedlars,  in- 
dis]-)ensable  beings  in  a  region  that  produces  nothing  but  fish, 
flesh,  and  fuel.  But  the  population  is  temporary  and  noniade, 
consisting  of  woodcutters,  agricultural  labourers  and  herdsmen, 
and  those  who  minister  to  their  wants.  These  colonists — for 
such  they  may  strictly  be  called — are  from  distant  parts  of 
Tuscany,  mostly  from  Pistoja  and  the  northern  districts ;  and 
they  come  down  to  these  lowlands  in  the  autumn  to  cut  wood  and 
make  charcoal — the  prime  duties  of  the  Marennna  lalK)urer.  In 
]May,  at  the  commencement  of  the  summer  heats,  the  greatei"  part 
of  them  emigrate  to  the  neighbouring  mountains,  or  return  to 
their  homes  :   but  a  few  linger  four  or  five  weeks  longer,  just  to 


204  THE    MAEEMMA.  [chap.  xlv. 

giitluT  ill  the  scanty  liarvest,  where  there  -is  any,  and  then  it 
is  suKre  qui  j)eut,  and  "  the  devil  take  the  liinduiost."  No  one 
remains  in  this  deadly  atnu)spliere,  who  can  in  an}'^  way  crawl  out 
of  it — even  "  the  hirds  and  the  very  flies  "  are  said,  in  the  em- 
phatic language  of  the  Tuscans,  to  abandon  the  plague -stricken 
waste.  Follonica,  which  in  winter  has  two  or  three  hundred 
inhabitants,  has  scarcely  half-a-dozen  souls  left  in  the  dog-days, 
beyond  the  men  of  the  coast-guard,  who  are  doomed  to  rot  at 
their  posts.  Such,  at  least,  is  the  report  given  by  the  natives ; 
how  far  it  is  coloured  by  southern  imaginations,  I  leave  to  others 
to  verify,  if  they  Avish.  M}^  advice,  however,  for  that  season 
would  be 

— has  terras.  Italique  hanc  litoris  oram, 
Eflfuge  ;  cuncta  malis  habitantur  moenia  ; 

for  the  sallow  emaciation,  or  dropsical  bloatedness,  so  often  seen 
along  this  coast,  confirms  a  great  part  of  the  tale.  In  October, 
when  the  sun  is  losing  his  power  to  create  miasma,  the  tide  of 
l^opulation  begins  to  flow  again  towards  the  INIaremma. 

The  same  causes  must  always  have  produced  the  same  eflects, 
and  the  Maremma  must  have  been  unhealthy  from  the  earliest 
times.  Yet  scarcely  to  the  same  extent  as  at  present,  or  the 
€oast  and  its  neighbourhood  would  not  have  been  so  well  peopled, 
as  extant  remains  prove  it  to  have  been.  In  Roman  times  we 
know  it  was  much  as  at  the  present  day.'''  Yet  the  Emperors 
and  patricians  had  villas  along  this  coast  in  spots  Avliich  are 
now  utterl}'  deserted.  The  Romans,  by  their  conscriptions,  and 
centralising  system,  diminished  the  population ;  the  land  fell 
out  of  cultivation,  and  malaria  was  the  natural  consequence ;  so 
that  where  large  cities  had  originally  stood,  mere  road-stations, 
post-houses,  or  lonely  villas  met  the  e3'e  in  Imperial  times.  The 
same  causes  which  reduced  the  Campagna  of  Rome  to  a  desert 
must  have  operated  here.     The  old  saying, 

Lontan  da  citta, 
Lontan  da  sanita, 

is  most  applicable  to  these  regions,  where  population  and  cultiva- 
tion are  the  best  safeguards  against  disease.  It  is  probable  that 
under  the  Etruscans  the  malaria  was  confined  to  the  level  of  the 
coast,  or  we  should  scarcely  find  traces  of  so  many  cities,  the 
chief  of  the  land,  on  the  great  table-lands,  not  far  from  the  sea; 

'  I'liiiy  (Ejiist.  v.  G)  says  of  it — Est  sane  litns  cxtenditur.  Cf.  Viig.  Mn.  X.  814; 
^'lavis  ct  pcstilens  ora  Tuscoruin,  (iu;e  per       Serv.  ad  loc.  ;  Until.  I.  282. 


CHAP.  XLV.]  ITS    POPULATION'    AND    CLIMATE.  205 

on  sites,  wliic-li  now  from  Wiint  of  cultivation  and  pi-oper  drainage, 
are  become  most  pestilent;  but  Avliidi,  fi'oni  tlieir  elevation,  ougbt 
to  enjoj'  imnnmity  from  tlie  desolating  scourge. 

It  is  but  justice  to  add,  that  the  rulers  of  Tuscany,  for  a 
centur}'  past,  have  done  much  to  imjorove  the  condition  of  this 
district,  both  by  drainage,  by  filling  up  the  pools  and  swamps, 
and  by  reclaiming  land  from  the  waste  for  agricultural  purposes. 
But  much  yet  remains  to  be  done ;  for  the  mischief  of  ages 
cannot  be  remedied  in  a  day.  The  success  already  attained  in 
the  Yal  di  Chiana,  and  the  natural  fertility  of  the  soil,  offer  every 
encouragement.  "In  the  Maremma,"  saith  the  proverb,  "you 
get  rich  in  a  year,  but — you  die  in  six  months  " — in  JMavcDuiia 
s'arncchisce  in  un  anno,  si  muore  in  sei  mesi. 

The  peculiar  circumstances  of  the  Maremma  are  made  the 
universal  excuse  for  every  inferiority^  of  quantity,  quality,  or 
workmanshii^.  You  complain  of  the  food  or  accommodation. 
My  host  shrugs  his  shoulders,  and  cries,  "Ma  die — cosa  viiolc, 
signor?  siamo  in  Maremma'' — what  would  you  have,  sir?  we  are 
in  the  Maremma.  A  bungling  smith  well-nigh  lamed  the  horse 
I  had  hired;  to  mj^^  complaints  he  replied,  "Cosa  vnole,  signor! 
e  roha  di  ]\Iaremma."  ^  "  Maremma-stuff  "  is  a  proverbial  expres- 
sion of  inferiority.  These  lower  regions  of  Italy,  in  truth,  are 
scarcely  deemed  w^orthy  of  a  place  in  a  Tuscan's  geography. 
"  Nel  mondo,  o  in  Maremma,''  has  for  ages  been  a  current  saying. 
Thus,  Boccaccio's  Madonna  Lisetta  tells  her  gossip  that  the 
angel  Gabriel  had  called  her  the  handsomest  woman  "in  the 
Avorld  or  in  the  INIaremma."  The  traveller  will  find,  however, 
that  as  accommodation  deteriorates,  the   demands  on  his  purse 

®  The    use   of   this  word   roha  is    most  as  of  his  goods  and   chattels,  as  his  roh<i. 

singular  and  amusing,  and  should  be  undei--  A   mountain  is  the  roha   of  the  Tuscan, 

stood  by  the  traveller.     It  is  of  universal  Koraan,    or  Neapolitan  State,  as  the  case 

application.     What  cannot  be  designated  may  be.     The  mist  rising  from  a  stream 

as   roha  ?      It   is    impossible   to  give    its  and  the  fish  caught  in  it,  are  alike  roha  di 

equivalent  in  English,  for  we  have  no  word  fiiime — "river-stuff."       The  traveller  will 

so  handy.     The  nearest  approach  to  it  is  sometimes  have  his  dignity  offended  when 

"thing"  or   "stuff,"   but  it  has  a  much  he  hears  the  same  term  applied   to  him- 

wider  apjdication,  accommodating  itself  to  self  as  to  the  cloth  on   his  back — roha  (fi 

the  whole  range  of  created  objects,  animate  Francia  or  roha  d' Inr/kUterra  ;  or  when  he 

or  inanimate,    substances   or  abstractions.  hears  himself  spoken  of  as  "  steam -stuff," 

It  implies  belonging,   ajipertaining  to,    or  because   he  happens  to  have  ju.st    landed 

proceeding  from.     The  Spaniards  use  the  from  a  steam-boat.     Even  the  laws  and  in- 

cogna^e  word  ropn,  but  in  a  more  limited  stitutions  of  his  country,  and  the  doctrines 

sense.     Our   word   "robe"   has  the  same  or  observances  of  his  creed,  will  be  brought 

origin,  and  "  rubbish  "  comes  from  its  de-  by  tlie  Italian  under  this  all-coiiiprehensivc 

preciative  inflexion — rohaccia.    An  Italian  term, 
■will  .speak  of  liis  wife  and  children,  as  well 


206  THE    MAEEMULY.  [chap.  xlv. 

become  more  exorbitant ;  not  wholly  without  reason,  for  every- 
thing comes  from  other  parts — nothing  is  produced  in  the 
!Maremma.  ^lilk,  butter,  fruit,  all  the  necessaries  of  life,  even 
bread  and  meat,  are  brought  from  a  distance;  fowls  and  eggs, 
and  occasionally  fish  or  a  wild-boar  chop,  are  tlie  only  produce 
of  the  spot.  Corn  is  not  yet  grown  in  sufficient  (quantities  for 
the  winter  population. 

Such  is  the  picture  I  drew  of  the  Maremma  in  1844.  Since 
that  date  the  district  between  Follonica  and  Cecina  has  so  much 
improved,  that  the  likeness  is  hardly  to  be  recognised.''  The 
swampy  jungle  has  in  many  parts  given  place  to  corn,  and  though 
malaria  still  reigns  in  the  hot  season,  its  influence  is  much 
modified  by  drainage  and  cultivation.  M}-  description,  however, 
still  applies  with  unabated  force  to  that  i^ortion  of  the  coast  which 
extends  southwards  from  Follonica  to  ^Nlonte  Argentaro,  "where 
the  country  presents  in  the  highest  degree  that  aspect  of  lonel}' 
and  savage  grandeur,  which  is  the  peculiar  characteristic  of  the 
Maremma." 

Campiglia  is  a  town  of  some  consequence,  having  2000  resident 
inhabitants;  but  in  the  cool  season  that  number  is  almost  doubled 
by  the  influx  of  the  labourers  from  other  parts  of  Italy,  who 
migrate  to  the  Maremma.  In  the  Locanda  of  (xiovanni  Dini, 
I  experienced  great  civility  and  attention,  and  as  much  comfort 
as  can  be  expected  in  a  countr}''  to^ai,  off  the  high  road,  and 
where  the  tastes  and  whims  of  foreigners  are  not  wont  to  be 
studied.  Those  visitors  to  Populonia,  who  do  not  acce2')t  the 
hospitalities  of  the  Desiderj,  and  who  do  not  seek  a  lodging  at 
Piombino,  cannot  do  better  than  make  the  acquaintance  of 
Giovanni  of  Campiglia. 

It  is  in  the  heights  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Campiglia,  that 
Yetulonia  was  long  supposed  to  be  situated.  Leandro  Alberti,  in 
1550,  first  gave  to  the  world  a  long  and  detailed  account  of  some 
ruins  in  a  dense  wood  hereabouts,  which,  from  the  name  of  the 
wood,  and  from  the  vicinity  of  the  hot  springs  of  Le  Caldane,  he 
concluded  to  be  the  remains  of  Yetulonia,  or,  as  he  calls  it, 
Itulonium. 

He  asserts  that  between  the  Torre  di  S.  Yincenzo  and  the 
headland  of  Populonia,  three  miles  from  the  sea,  and  in  the 
midst  of  dense  woods,  is  a  spacious  inclosure  of  ancient  masonry, 
composed  of  l)locks  from  four  to  six  feet  long,  neath'  put  together, 

'  Tuscany  is  indebted  for  much  of  lliis  improvement  to  tlie  assiduous  exertions  of  her 
ate  benevolent  ruler,  Leopold  II. 


€HAP.  XLV.]     PEETENDED    EUIXS    OF    YETULONIA.  207 

and  without  cement ;  the  wall  l)eiiij:^  ten  feet  thick.  In  many 
2)arts  it  is  overthrown  to  the  foundations.  Within  this  are  many 
fountains,  or  reservoirs,  almost  all  ruined  and  empty  ;  hesides 
certain  wells,  some  quite  choked  with  earth  ;  mosaic  pavement 
of  marhle  and  other  costly  stones,  hut  much  ruined  ;  the  remains 
of  a  superh  am])hitlieatre,  in  which  lies  a  great  hlock  of  marhle, 
inscrihed  with  Etruscan  characters.  Both  within  and  around 
the  said  inclosure,  among  the  dense  thickets  and  underwood,  lie 
fragments  of  statues,  hroken  capitals  and  hases  of  columns,  slahs, 
tahlets,  tomb-stones,  and  such-like  remains  of  antiquity,  together 
with  ver}'  thick  suhstruc-tions  and  fragments  of  massive  walling, 
Avliich  he  thinks  belonged  to  some  temple  or  palace.  This  wood, 
he  says,  is  called  Selva  di  Vetletta,  and  the  ruins,  Vetulia ; 
which  he  takes  to  be  Vetulonia,  or  a  temple  called  Yituloniura. 
All  around  these  remains  are  ruined  fountains  ;  and  two  miles 
beyond,  on  the  same  wooded  hills,  is  a  large  building,  where  alum 
is  prepared ;  and  three  miles  further,  are  the  mines,  where  iron 
ore  is  dug  up.  Following  the  said  hill,  which  faces  the  soutli, 
for  another  mile,  and  descending  to  its  foot,  you  find  the  marsh 
through  which  the  Cornia  flows  to  the  sea.^ 

I  have  given  Alberti's  account  for  the  benefit  of  those  who 
would  seek  for  the  ruins  he  describes. 

Though  Alberti's  opinion  as  to  this  being  the  site  of  Vetulonia, 
has  been  now  broached  for  three  centuries,  and  though  it  has 
been  adoi)ted,  through  good  faith  in  his  statements,  by  almost 
every  subse(|uent  writer  on  Italian  antiquities,-  no  one  has 
ever  been  able  to  discover  a  vestige  of  the  ruins  he  pretends  to 
describe ;  yet  no  one  seems  to  have  doubted  their  existence, 
accounting  for  their  disappearance  by  the  density  of  the  forest 
which  covers  the  slopes  of  these  mountains.'     The  wood,  liow- 

'  Albcrti,  Dcscrittione  d'  Italia,  p.   27.  Anc.    Italy,    I.    p.    187.     Some   of   these 

Inghirami  (Ric.   di  Yetiil.  p.    38)  tells  lis  wi-iters  contented  themselves  with  repeating 

that  Lcandro  Alberti  did  not  describe  these  the   accounts   of  their  pi'cdecessors  ;    and 

ruins  from  his  jjersonal  acquaintance,  but  even  those  who  had  travelled   along  this 

copied  a  manuscript  account  by  a  certain  coast,    accepted    implicitly   the   assertion, 

Ziiccaria   Zacchio,   of  Yolterra,  who  wTote  cai'ried   away   by   the    great  authority   of 

long  before  him  ;  and  pronounces  the  above  Cluverius,  who  gave  the  statement  to  the 

account   to   be   the   offspring   of   Zacchio's  world  as  his  own,  at  least  without  acknow 

lively  imagination,  copied  by  the  credulous  ledging  that  he  had  it  from  Alberti. 
Albcrti.  3  Santi   (Viaggio,   III.   p.    ISO,  cited  by 

-  Cluver.  Ital.  Ant.   II.   p.  472  ;  Demp-  Inghir.  Hie.  diVetul.  p.  47)  sought  in  vain 

ster,    Etrur.   Ilcg.    II.    p.    432  ;    Ximenes,  for  a  vestige  of  these  ruins  ;  yet  would  he 

llarciiima  Sanese,  p.  24  ;  Targioni-Tozzetti,  not    impugn    the     authority    of    previous 

Viaggi    in    Toscana,    IV.     pp.     117,    268;  writers,  "although  no  one  had  been  al)ie 

Miillcr,  Etrusk.  I,  pp.  211,  347  ;  Cramer,  to   ascertain   the   site  of  the  ancient  and 


208  THE    MAEEMMA.  [chap.  xlv. 

ever,  would  not  alYord  an  effectual  concealment,  for  it  is  cut  from 
time  to  time,  at  least  once  in  a  generation  ;  so  that  any  ruins 
among  it  must,  since  Alberti's  days,  have  been  frequently  exposed 
for  3'ears  together,  and  some  traditional  record  of  their  site  could 
hardly  fail  to  be  preserved  among  tlic  peasantry.  Inghirami  was 
the  tirst  to  impugn  Alberti's  credibility,  after  he  had  sought  in 
vain  for  these  ruins,  and  for  any  one  who  had  seen  them  ;  but 
finding  that  no  one,  native  or  foreigner,  had  ever  been  able  to 
discover  their  site,  he  concluded  them  to  have  existed  only  in 
Alberti's  imagination.*  He  admits,  however,  the  currency  of 
such  rumours  along  this  coast ;  but  could  never  meet  with  an}' 
one  who  had  ocular  testimony  to  offer  as  to  the  existence  of  these 
ruins,  and  therefore  refers  such  traditions  to  their  probable 
source— the  statement  of  Alberti,  repeated  by  subsequent  writers, 
till  it  has  become  current  in  the  mouths  of  the  peasantry.' 

My  own  experience  does  not  quite  agree  wath  Inghirami' s  ;  for 
though  I  made  many  inquiries  at  Campiglia  and  Populonia,  not 
only  of  residents,  but  of  camjntguuoU  and  shepherds,  men  whose 
life  had  been  passed  in  the  neighbouring  country,  I  could  not 
learn  that  such  names  as  Vetulonia,  Yetulia,  or  even  Vetletta,  or 
A'etreta,  had  ever  been  heard  in  this  district ;  nothing  beyond 
the  A^alle  al  Yetvo  (Vetriera,  as  I  heard  it)  which  Inghirami 
speaks  of,  the  valley  below  Campiglia,  towards  the  Caldane — a 
name  derived  from  the  glass -factories  formerly  existing  there, '^ 
traces  of  which  are  still  to  be  seen  in  the  dross  from  the  furnaces. 

Though  the  ruins  Alberti  describes  are  not  now  to  be  found, 
that  there  was  an  Etruscan  population  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Campiglia  is  a  fact,  attested  by  tombs  that  have  been  opened  at 
]\Ionte  Patone,  a  mile  below  the  town  on  the  road  to  Populonia. 
They  haA'e  been  reclosed,  but  the  description  I  received  of  their 
form  and  contents — sarcophagi  with  reliefs,  and  recumbent  figures 


iiTCCoverably  lost  Vetulonia. "     Sir  llichard  or  Alberti,   from    that    of   Vetreta,   wliicli 

Colt  Hoare  was  also  disappointed   in  liis  exists  in  several  spots  along  this  coast  where 

searchforthe.se   ruins,  yet  did  not  call  in  there  have  been  in  former  days  manufactories 

question  their  existence.     Classical  Tour,  I.  of  glass.     He  also  shows,  from   other  pal- 

p.    46.     And   it   must   be  confessed  that  pably  absurd  statements   of  Alberti  with 

Alberti's  description,  in  no  way  vague  or  regard  to  Populonia,  how  little  he  is  worthy 

extravagant,  has  all  the  air  of  verity.  of    confidence   in   such   matters.     Hie.    di 

•*  Inghirami  investigated  all  this  country  Vetul.  pp.  40,  48,  49. 

with  the   greatest  care,  but  could  find  no  ''  Kic.   di  Vetul.  p.    63.      To  this  source 

\estige  of  Alberti's  Vetulonia ;  nor  even,  he  ascribes  the  tradition  of  the  Massetani, 

among  the  trail itions  of  the   peasantry,  a  mentioned  above,  at  page  199. 

trace  of  the  name  Vetul  ia,  or  Vetletta,  which  ''  Kic.  di  Vetul.  jx  39. 
he  thinks  to  have  been  formed  by  Zacchio 


CHAP.  XLV.]  ETRUSCAN   rj::\[AINS  NEAR  CAMPIGLIA.  209 

oil  tlie  lids — fragments  of  bronze  armour,  embossed  witli  lions, 
coc-ks,  boars,  serpents,  geese,  and  strange  ehimreras,  such  as  had 
never  been  seen  or  lieard  of  b}'  my  informants — and  pottery  of 
sundr}^  kinds — thoroughly  persuaded  me  '  of  their  Etruscan 
character. 

The  precise  site  of  this  Etruscan  town  I  did  not  ascertain.  It 
may  have  been  at  Campiglia  itself,  tlunigh  no  traces  of  such 
anti(piity  are  now  to  be  seen  there.  In  fact,  were  we  to  trust  to 
such  blind  guides  as  Annio  of  Yiterbo  and  Leandro  Alberti,  we 
should  hold  that  Campiglia  was  founded  b}'  the  "  sweet- worded 
Nestor,"  who  named  it  after  his  realm  of  Pylos,  and  that  the 
syllable  Cam,  by  some  unexplained  means,  afterwards  stole  a 
march  on  the  old  appellation,  and  took  its  place  at  the  head  of 
the  word. 

After  all,  it  is  a  mere  assumption,  founded  partly  on  Alberti's 
description,  and  partly  on  the  hot  springs  at  Le  Caldane,  that 
Vetulonia  stood  in  this  neighbourhood,  as  there  is  no  statement 
in  ancient  writers  which  should  lead  us  to  look  for  it  here,  rather 
than  elsewhere  along  the  coast.  But  the  fashion  was  set  b}'' 
Alberti,  and  it  has  ever  since  been  followed — fashions  in  opinion 
not  being  so  easily  cast  aside  as  those  in  dress.^ 

Roman  remains  also  have  been  found  in  this  neighbourhood. 
I  heard  of  sundry  jneces  of  mosaic,  and  other  traces  of  Eoman 
villas,  that  had  been  recently  brought  to  light. ^ 

The  summit  of  the  hill  above  the  town  is  called  Campiglia 
A'ecchia,  but  there  are  no  remains  more  ancient  than  the  middle 
ages.  Forbear  not,  however,  to  ascend;  for  you  will  thence 
obtain  one  of  the  most  magnificent  panoramas  in  all  Italy — 
where  mountain   and  plain,  rock  and  wood,  sea   and  sky,  lake, 

"  Gerhard    (Ann.    Inst.    1829,    p.    194)  nia,  Eba,  ydci,  Clusium,"  &c. 

suggests  three  causes,  whicli  may  have  given  ''*  Near   Campiglia   some   ancient    mines 

rise  to  this  opinion.     The  hot  springs  of  liave  of  late  years  been  reopened  and  worked 

the  Caldane — the  reported  existence  of  the  with  great  success  by  an  English  gentleman, 

7iames  of    Vetulia,    Vetleta,    &c.,    in    the  who,  as  I  heard  the   story,  was  led  to  turn 

neighbourhood — and  "the  order  in  which  his  attention  to  this  spot  from  observing  the 

Ptolemy  mentions  Vetulonia,  after  having  mention  made  by  Strabo   (V.   p.    •223)  of 

cited    KuscUm  and    Arretium   and    before  some    abandoned    mines    near    Populonia. 

]iassing   to    Suana,    Satumia,   and  Volci."  Vide  tsujva,  i^.  200.  According  to  Dempster 

With  regard  to  the  latter  reason,  nothing  (II.     p.    432),    Campiglia   could    boast   of 

more   can   be  deduced  fi-om  the  order  of  mines  of  a  richer  metal,  for  he  calls    it — 

these   places  than  from  the  latitude  and  "  argenti  fodinis  nuper  ditissima,  ac  monetaB 

longitude  Ptolemy  assigns  them,   as  it   is  officiua."     In  tlie  mountains  of  Campiglia 

evident  they  follow  no  geographical  arrange-  also  are  quarries  of  white  marble,  to  ■>>iiich 

ment — "  Pisae,  Volaterra;,  llusella',  Ficsulw,  the  Duomo  of  Florence   is  more  indebted 

Penisia,  Arretium,  Cortona,Acula,  Biturgia,  for  its  beautiful  incrustations  than  to  the 

Manliana,  Vetulonium,  Sx'ua,  Suana,  Satur-  marble  of  Carrara.     Repetti,  I.  p.  421. 

VOL.   ir.  V 


210  THE    MAEEMMA.  [chap.  xlv. 

river,  and  island,  are  brought  together  into  one  mighty  spirit- 
stirring  wliole,  in  which  Nature  exuhs  in  undying  strength  and 
freshness. 

Turn  your  back  on  the  deep  valley  of  the  Cornia  and  the  lofty 
mountains  inland,  and  let  your  eye  range  over  the  other  half  of 
the  scene.  C'ampiglia  lies  at  your  feet,  cradled  in  olive-groves, 
and  its  grey  feudal  castle,  in  ivy-grown  ruin,  scowls  over  the 
subject  town.  Now  glance  southward,  far  across  the  green  and 
red  ^Nlarennna  and  the  azure  bay  of  Follonica,  to  the  headland  of 
Troja,  with  the  islet  at  its  foot.  Far  beyond  it,  in  the  dim 
horizon,  you  will  perceive  another  island,  tlie  Giglio,  so  favourite 
a  feature  in  the  scenery  of  Corneto.  To  the  west  of  it  rises  the 
lofty  islet  rock  of  Monte  Cristo.  Nearer  still,  the  many-peaked 
mass  of  Elba,  once  the  whole  realm  of  him  for  whom  Euro^ie  was 
too  small,  towers  behind  the  heights  of  Piombino  ;  and  on  the 
northern  extremitv  of  these  heights  gleams  the  castle  of  Populonia, 
overhanging  its  sail-less  port.  Due  west,  Capraja  rises  from  the 
blue  deej) ;  and  far,  far  beyond,  the  snow-capped  mountains  of 
Corsica  faintly  whiten  the  horizon.  To  the  north-west,  seen 
through  a  gap  in  the  olive-clad  heights  on  which  you  stand,  is 
the  steep  islet-rock  of  Gorgona. 

How  delightful  at  times  is  ignorance  !  How  disenchanting  is 
knowledge  !  Look  at  those  luxuriant,  variegated  woods,  those 
smiling  lakes  at  your  feet ;  admire  them,  rejoice  in  them — think 
not,  know  not,  that  for  half  the  year  they  "exhale  earth's  rottenest 
vajioiu's,"  and  curdle  the  air  with  pestilence.  Let  yonder  castle 
on  its  headland  be  to  you  a  picturesque  object,  placed  there  but 
to  add  beauty  to  the  scene  ;  listen  not  to  its  melancholy  tale  of 
desolation  and  departed  grandeur.  Those  islands,  studding  the 
deep,  may  be  barren,  treeless,  storm-lashed  rocks,  the  haunt  only 
of  the  fisherman,  or  forsaken  as  unprofitable  wildernesses;  but  to 
you  who  would  enjoy  this  scene,  let  them,  one  and  all,  be  wliat 
they  appear, 

"  Summer-isles  of  Eden,  lying 
In  dark  purple  spheres  of  sea." 


CHAP.    XLV.] 


A    rANOEAMA— VIA    AUKELIA. 


211 


APPENDIX    TO    CHAPTER    XLV. 


The  fullowinii^  iire  tin-  ;iiici<iit  stations  and  distances  on  tho  Via  Aurclia, 
and  alnni^  the  coast,  from  Cosa  northwards  to  Luna,  as  _<i;iven  l>y  tiie  tln-ce 
Itineraries  : — 

VIA    AlHKIdA 

Continued  from  Vol.  I.,  p.  4.3G. 


Itinerary  of 

Antoninus. 

Cosa 

Lacum  Aprileni 

y\. 

r.  XXII. 

Salelironem 

XII. 

Manliaiia 

vim. 

ropulonium 

XII. 

Vada  Volaterrana 

XXV. 

Ad  Herculem 

XVIII. 

Pisas 

XII. 

Papiriana 

XI. 

Lunam 

XXI  111. 

JVIaritime  Itinerary  of  Antoninus. 


Amine,  fluv. 

Portum  Hercniis        ^I. 

P.  XXV. 

•Cetarias  Doniitianas 

III. 

Almina,  fluv. 

Villi. 

Portum  Telamonis 

— 

Fluv.  Unilironis 

— 

Lacu  Aprile 

XVI 1 1. 

Alraa,  flum. 

XVI 1 1. 

Scabros,  port. 

VI. 

Fale.siam,  port. 

XVIII. 

Populoniuin,  port. 

XIII. 

Vada,  port. 

XXX. 

Portum  Pisanum 

XVIII. 

Pisiis,  fluv. 

vim. 

Lunam,  fluv.  ilai^ra 

XXX. 

Peutingerian 

Table. 

Cosa 

AU.iuia,  fl. 

M.  P. 

Villi. 

Telamone 

IIII. 

Hasta 

VIII. 

Umhro,  fl. 

Villi. 

Salehorna 

XII. 

Manliana 

Vim. 

Populonio 

XII. 

Vail  is  Volateris 

X. 

Velinis 

X. 

Ad  Fines 

XIII. 

Piscinas 

vm. 

Turrita 

XVI. 

Pisis 

vim. 

Fossis  Papirianis 

XI. 

Ad  Tabenia  Frigi 

da 

XII. 

Lun;e 

X. 

The  latter  distances  on  this  route,  as 
given  in  the  Maritime  Itinerary,  are  fur 
from  correct,  and  those  given  by  the  Table 
are  still  more  ina<;curate,  and  in  many 
cases  hardly  intelligible. 


POPCLOMA,    FRl>3I    THE    EAST. 


CHAPTER    XLVI. 

POPULOXIA.— POP  f'Z  OXIA . 

rroxima  secunim  reserat  Populonia  litus 

Qua  naturalem  illicit  in  arva  sinum 

Agnosci  nequeimt  »vi  monimenta  prioris 
Grandia  consumpsit  ma'nia  tempus  edax. 

Sola  manent  iuterceptis  vestigia  muris  ; 

Euderibus  latis  tecta  sepulta  jacent. — Rutilius. 

So  long  tliey  travelled  with  little  ease, 

Till  that  at  last  tliey  to  a  castle  came, 

Built  on  a  rocke  adjoyning  to  the  seas  ; 

It  was  an  auncient  worke  of  antique  fame 

And  wondrous  strong  by  nature  and  by  skilful  frame. 

Spenser. 

From  Follonica  there  are  two  ways  to  Populonia — one  along" 
the  sandy  strip  of  shore,  called  II  Tombolo,  to  PioniLino,  fifteen 
miles  distant/  and  thence  six  miles  fm'ther  over  the  mountains ; 


'  Piombino  is  not  an  ancient  site.  Here, 
however,  a  beautiful  votive  statue  of  Apollo 
in  bronze  was  founcl  in  the  sen  some  years 
since,  having  a  Greek  inscription  on  its 
foot— A0ANAIAI  AEKATAN— it  is  now 
in  the  Louvre.  JI.  Letronne  thinks  it  may 
Lave  decorated  some  temple  of  Winerva  in 
the  neighliouring  Etruscan  city  of  Poini- 
lonia.  Ann.  Inst.  1834,  pp.  198  222. 
Tav.  d'Agg.  D.  1.      Won.    Ined.   Inst.   I. 


tav.  58,  59.  lletwccn  Follonica  and  Piom- 
bino, and  about  a  mile  from  the  latter,  ia- 
the  Porto  de'  Faliesi,  the  Faleria  of  Rutilius 
(I.  371),  the  Falesia  Portus  of  the  Mari- 
time Itineraiy,  see  page  211.  The  neigh- 
bouring lagoon,  of  which  Rutilius  speaks, 
is  that  into  which  the  Cornia  empties  itself. 
Repctti  (IV.  p.  293)  says  the  ancient  port 
is  now  much  choked  by  the  deposits  fromi 
that  river. 


CHAP.  XLVi.]  POSITION    OP    rOrULONIA.  2V^ 

■the  other  b.y  the  raHroad  as  far  as  the  Campl^lia  station,  and 
then  across  the  Maremma.  The  former  road,  in  fine  weather,  is 
practicable  for  a  carriage  throughout. 

From  Canipigha  Station  to  Pojjuhinia  tliere  is  a  direct  road  of 
seven  miles  across  the  ])lain.  AVhen  I  did  it  many  years  since, 
this  track  was  practicable  only  on  foot  or  on  horseback,  for  the 
jungle  stretched  from  the  Leghorn  road  to  the  very  foot  of  the 
Jieights  of  Poi)ulonia.  The  wood  was  dense  enough  in  parts,  yet 
I  could  catch  an  occasional  glimpse  of  the  castle-crowned  headland 
to  which  I  was  bound.  The  ground  was  swampy;  the  paths,  mere 
tracks  made  by  the  cattle  ;  yet  such  difHculties  were  in  time  over- 
come, and  I  was  approaching  Populonia,  when  I  encountered  a 
more  formidable  obstacle  in  a  flock  of  sheep.  Not  that,  like  the 
knight  of  La  Mancha,  or  his  heroic  prototype,  Ajax  Telamonius, 
I  took  them  for  foes  to  be  subdued ;  but  some  half-a-dozen  dogs, 
their  guardians,  large  and  fierce  as  wolves,  threatened  to  dispute 
my  further  progress.  Seeing  no  shepherd  at  hand  to  calm  their 
fury,  and  not  caring  to  fight  a  passage,  or  to  put  Ulysses'  example 
and  Pliny's  precept  into  practice,  and  sit  down  quietly  in  their 
]nidst,-  I  made  a  detour  by  the  sea-shore,  where  a  range  of  sand- 
hills concealed  me  from  their  view.  Here  the  sand,  untrodden 
perhaps  for  ages,  lay  so  loose  and  deep  that  I  verified  the  truth  of 
the  saying — 

Chi  vuol  patir  nel  mondo  una  gran  pena, 
Dornia  diritto,  o  cammini  jier  arena. 

Tliis  was  the  beach  of  the  celebrated  port  of  Populonia,  once  the 
chief  mart  of  Etruscan  commerce  ;  but  not  a  sail,  not  even  a  skift' 
now  shadowed  its  waters,  which  reflected  nothing  but  the  girdle 
of  yellow  sand-hills,  and  the  dark  headland  of  Populonia,  with  the 
turreted  ruins  on  its  crest,  and  the  lonely  Tower  of  Baratti  at  its 
foot.  It  was  the  scene  delineated  in  the  woodcut  at  the  liead  of 
this  chapter. 

It  is  a  steep  ascent  up  the  olive-clad  slope  to  Populonia.  Just 
before  reaching  the  Castle,  a  portion  of  the  ancient  wall  is  passed, 
stretching  along  the  brow  of  the  hill ;  but  this  is  by  no  means 
the  finest  fragment  of  the  Etruscan  fortifications. 

The  Castle  t)f  Populonia  is  an  excellent  specimen  of  the  Italian 
feudal  fortreijs  ;  its  turrets  and  machicolated  battlements  make  it 
as  picturesque  an  object  as  its  situation  renders  it  prominent  in 

-  Homer  (Odys.  XIV.  31)  tells  xis  that  stick  drop.  Pliny  (VIII.  61)  also  says 
Ulysses,  on  being  attacked  liy  tlie  dogs  of  that  you  may  calm  dogs'  fury  by  sitting 
Eumteus,  knowingly  sat  down,  and  let  Ins       down  on  the  ground. 


214  POPULOXLV.  [cuAP.  xlvi, 

the  scenery  of  this  district.  The  ancient  family  of  the  Desiderj 
have  been  the  hereditary  lords  of  Populonia  for  centuries ;  and 
though  the  donjon  and  keep  are  no  more,  though  the  ramparts 
are  not  manned,  and  no  warder  winds  his  horn  at  the  strangers 
approach,  the  Desiderj  still  dwell  within  the  castle -walls,  in  the 
midst  of  their  dependents,  retaining  all  the  patriarchal  dignity 
and  simplicity  of  the  olden  time,  without  its  tyranny  ;  and  with 
liospitality  in  no  age  surpassed,  welcome  the  traveller  with  open 
doors.  I  had  not  the  good  fortune  to  make  the  acquaintance  of 
this  amiable  family  as  they  were  absent  at  the  time  of  my  visit ; 
but  my  friend,  INIr.  Ainsley,  avIio  in  the  i)revious  siuing  had 
visited  Populonia,  was  persuaded — comi)elled  I  may  say — to  stay 
a  week  at  the  Castle,  finding  it  impossible  to  refuse  the  urgent 
hospitality  of  the  Cavaliere.  It  is  refreshing  to  exjierience  such 
cordiahty  in  a  foreign  land — to  find  that  hospitality  which  we  are 
apt  to  regard  as  peculiarly  of  British  growth,  fiourishiug  as 
luxmiantly  in  another  soil.  However  reluctant  to  receive  such 
attentions  from  strangers,  in  a  case  like  this  where  there  is  no 
inn,  nor  so  much  as  a  wineshop  where  refreshment  may  be  had, 
one  feels  at  hberty  to  trespass  a  little.  This  dependence,  how- 
ever, on  the  good  offices  of  others  is  likely  to  interfere  with 
liberty  of  action,  and  might  be  no  slight  inconvenience,  were  the 
antiquities  of  Populonia  very  extended  or  numerous.  As  it  is^ 
the  traveller  may  drive  over  in  the  morning  from  Piombino,  five 
miles  distant,  or  even  from  Campiglia,  see  thoroughly  the 
remains  at  Popidonia,  and  return  before  sunset  the  same  da}'. 

There  are  few  relics  of  antiquity  extant  at  Populonia  beyond 
its  walls,  which  may  be  traced  in  fragments  along  the  brow  of  the 
liill,  showing  the  Etruscan  city  to  have  had  a  circuit  of  little 
more  than  a  mile  and  a  half."'  The  area  thus  inclosed  is  of  the 
form  of  a  shoulder  of  mutton,  with  the  shank-end  towards  the 
noi"th-east.  These  dimensions  place  I'opulonia  in  the  rank  of  an 
inferior  city,  which  must  have  derived  its  importance  from  its 
situation  and  commerce,  rather  than  from  tlie  abundance  of  its 
population. 

Populonia  can  hardly  have  been  one  of  the  Twelve  chief  cities 
of  the  Etruscan  Confederation.  Nothing  said  of  it  by  ancient 
■wi'iters  marks  it  as  of  such  importance  ;  and  the  only  statement 
that  can  in  any  way  be  construed  to  favour  such  a  view,  is  made 
by  Livy,  who  mentions  it  among  the  principal  cities  of  Etruria, 

^  ilicali's  Plan  of  Populonia  (Ant.  Pop.  Ital.  tav.  II.  ^  makes  the  circuit  of  the  walls  to 
bo  more  than  8000  feet. 


CHAP.  xLvi.]     THE    CASTLE- ANTIQUITY    OF    TOPULONIA.       21.5 

but  at  a  time  when  the  whole  of  that  state  had  hjiig  been  subject 
to  lionian  doniinati(jn.^  The  authority  of  Servius,  indeed,  is 
directlj'  opposed  to  tliat  view,  in  the  three  traditions  he  records 
of  it : — first,  that  it  was  founded  by  the  Corsicans,  "  after  the 
establislnnent  of  the  Twelve  cities  of  Etruria  ;  "  secondly,  that 
it  was  a  colony  of  Volaterra) ;  and  thirdly,  that  the  Volaterrani 
took  it  from  the  Corsicans.^  At  any  rate,  it  was  an  inferior  and 
dependent  town  in  Etruscan  times,  and  its  consequence  arose 
from  its  commerce,  from  its  being  a  great  naval  station,  and  also 
from  the  strength  of  its  position,  wdiich  enabled  it  to  defy  the 
attacks  of  pirates,  to  which  cities  on  this  coast  were  then 
subject.^  Moreover,  it  was  the  grand  depot  and  factory  of  the 
iron  of  Elba,  which,  as  at  the  present  day,  was  not  smelted  in 
the  island,  but  brought  for  that  purpose  to  the  neighbouring 
continent." 

The  antiquity  of  Populonia  is  undoubted.  Virgil  rein'esents  it 
sending  forces  to  the  assistance  of  ^Eneas,  and  bears  testimony 
to  its  importance  in  early  times. ^  Yet  we  find  no  historical 
mention  of  this  city  till  the  end  of  the  Second  Punic  War. 
When  Scipio  made  a  demand  on  the  resources  of  the  province  of 
Etruria  to  supply  his  fleet,  each  of  the  principal  cities  furnished 
that  in  which  it  abounded — Ctere  sent  corn  and  other  provisions ; 
Tanjuinii,  sailcloth;  Yolaterne,  ship-tackle  and  corn;  Arretium, 
corn,  weapons,  and  sundry  implements  ;  Perusia,  Clusium,  and 
Pusellse,  corn  and  fir  for  ship-building ;  and  Populonia,  iron.^ 

Pike  Volaterrie,  Populonia  sustained  a  siege  from  the  forces  of 


"*  Liv.  XXVIII.  4 J.     Livy  can  only  mean  Etniscan  cities  which  was  situated,  pro- 

tliat  I'oiiulonia  at  the  time  referred  to  was  perly  speaking,   on  the  sea.     Whence  it  is 

among  the  first  cities  of  the  Roman  jirovince  evident   that   Telamon,    Graviscie,    Pyrgi, 

of  Etruria.     It  is  not  improbable,  however,  and  the  other  phices  on  this  coast  were  not 

as  Niebuhr  (I.  p.  118,  Eng.  trans. )  suggests,  cities ;  probably  mere  landiug-ijlaces — ports 

that    Populonia,    though    not    one    of   the  to  the  great  cities  in  their  vicinity.     Even 

original  Twelve  Cities,  may  in  after  times  Cosa,   though  similarly  situated   to  Popu- 

have  taken  the  jjlacc  of  some  one  already  Ionia,  was  not,  from  its  small  size,  entitled 

extinct  — perhaps  Vetulonia,  "if  the  topo-  to  rank  as  a  city.     See  Mliller's  remarks, 

graphy  be  correct  which  places  Vetulonia  Etrusk.  I.  p.  348. 
near  it."  "  Strabo,  loc.  cit.  ;  Yarro,  ap.   Serv.  ad 

*  Serv.  ad  Virg.  JEn.  X.  172.    ]\Iillingen  JEn.    X.   17-1;    Pseudo-Aristot.  de  Mirab. 

(Xumis.  Anc.  Ital.  j).  H!:3),   from  the  cha-  Auscult.  c.  95. 

racter  of  certain  coins  of  Populonia,  attri-  ^  Virg.  ^n.  X.  172.     While  the  whole 

biites  the  foundation   of  the  town  to  the  island    of   Elba   sent    only    300    warriors, 

Phocieans,  during  their  settlement  in  Cor-  Pox^ulonia  sent  600  — 

.sica,  and  thinks  it  possible  that  they  may  _  ,      .„.  ,    ,      ^  „       i     ■    „  ♦„.. 

,         ,        ,    , ,  .        ^  .^  •'       •'  Sexcentos  ilh  dederat  Populonia  mater 

have  long  lield  pos.session  of  it.  -,-.         ,      ,    n-  •  \,f  ti,-.>  +,-o^r>.,+«c 

r  c     ?      ,-         .->.x  ,  T^..       ^TTT    r..  Lxpertos  belli  juvenes     ast  iha  trecentos. 

•'  Strabo  (\.  p.  223),  and  Pliny  (III.  S)  ^ 

tell  us  it  was  the  only  one  of  the  ancient  "  Liv.  XXYIII.  45. 


216  rOPULOXIA.  [chap.  xlvi. 

Sylla,  and  was  almost  destroyed  hy  the  victor ;  for  Strabo,  who 
visited  it  nearly  a  century  afterwards,  says  the  place  would  have 
been  an  utter  desert,  were  it  not  that  the  temples  and  a  few  of 
the  houses  were  still  standing ;  ^  even  the  port  at  the  foot  of  the 
hill  was  better  inhabited.  It  seems  never  to  have  recovered  from 
this  blow,  though  we  find  it  subsequently  mentioned  among  the 
coast-towns  of  Etruria.-  At  the  beginning  of  the  fifth  century  of 
our  era  it  was  in  utter  ruin,  and  the  description  Eutilius  gives  of 
it,  is  quite  applicable  to  its  present  condition.^  Micali  ascribes 
its  final  destruction  to  the  Saracens  in  a.d.  826  and  828;*  but 
Kepetti  makes  it  more  than  two  centuries  earlier,  referring  it  to 
the  Lombards  in  the  time  of  Gregory  the  Great.' 

AVithin  the  walls  of  Popiilonia  are  to  be  seen  a  line  of  six 
parallel  vaults,  concamerationes,  sometimes  erroneouslv  called  an 
amphitheatre  ;  a  curious  piece  of  mosaic,  with  a  variety  of  fishes  ;" 
and  some  reservoirs  of  water — all  of  Roman  times.  Nothing  is 
Etruscan  within  the  walls.  On  the  highest  ground  is  a  tower, 
where  the  French  estabhshed  a  telegraph.  Strabo  tells  us  that 
in  his  time  there  was  a  look-out  tower  on  this  promontory,  to 
watch  the  amval  of  the  tunny-fish;"  just  as  is  the  practice  at  the 
present  day  along  the  coasts  of  Itah*.  It  maj-  have  stood  on  this 
height,  which  commands  a  wide  view  of  the  Mediterranean, 
though  Eepetti  thinks  it  probably  occupied  the  eastern  clift", 
which  is  still  known  by  the  name  of  Puuto  della  Tonnarella. 
From  this  "  specular  mount  "  you  perceive  that  Populonia  is 
situated,  as  Strabo  describes  it,  "  on  a  lofty  promontory,  sinking 
abruptly  to  the  sea,  and  forming  a  penmsida."  The  Castle  hides 
the  view  of  the  bay  ;  but  on  the  north  the  coast  is  seen  trending 
away  in  a  long  low  line  towards  the  mountains  around  Leghorn  ; 

^  Juno    Lad    a    temple    at   Poijulonia.  under  tlieir  technical  names. 
Macrob.   Sat.   III.   11.     And  there  was  a  '   Strabo,  loc.  cit. — duvi/offKoTTf^ui'.    Hol- 

very  ancient  and  curious  statue  of  Jupiter  stenius  (Annot.  ad  Cluv.  jj.  29)  interprets 

here,  hewn  from  the  trunk  of  an  enonnous  this  word  as piscatio  thunnorum  ;  and  does 

Tine.      Pliny   (XIV.    2)   speaks   of    it   as  not  think   there  -was  any  tower.     But  he 

extant  in  his  day,  though  of  great  antiquity  stands  alone  in  this  opinion.     It  was  pro- 

— tot  sevis  incorruptum.  bably  this  same  tower  which  was  standing 

^  Mela.  II.  4.     Plin.   III.  8.     Ptolemy  in  the  time  of    Rutilius,    four  centuries 

(p.  63,  ed.  Bert.)  even  calls  it  a  city.  later,  who  speaks  of  a  beacon-tower  on  the 

^  Rutil.    Itin.    I.     401-412.       See    the  fortifications,  instead  of  a  Pharos  built  as 

heading  to  this  Chapter.  usual  on  the  mole  ;  so  that  a  double  pur- 

^  Micali,  Ant.  Pop.  Ital.  I.  p.  150.  po.se  was  served  (I.  403-8) — 

■^  Ilepetti,  IV.  p.  580.  Castellum  geminos  hominum  fundavit  in 

*  See  Bull.  Inst.   1843,  p.  150,  for  an  „;,„;,, 

account  of   this    mosaic  from  the  pen   of  Prtesidium  terris,  indiciumque  fretis. 
Inghirami.  who  mentions  the  various  fisii 


CHAP.    XI.VI.] 


THE    SPECULAR    MOUNT. 


217 


and  even  the  snowy  Apennines  above  the  Gulf  of  Spe/.ia  may  he 
descried  in  (dear  weatlier.  As  the  eye  sweeps  round  the  horizon 
of  waters,  it  meets  the  steep  rock  of  Gorg(ma,  then  the  hirger 
and  nearer  ishmd  of  Capraja,  and,  if  the  weather  be  very  clear, 


PLAN    OF    POPULi.iXIA. 


Line  of  the  Etniscan  walls. 
Concamerationes  with  six  vaults. 
^Modern  village. 
Torre  di  Baratti. 
Mosaic  pavement. 


/.    Cliurcli  of  S.  Cerbone. 

(J.   Ancient  remains,  marking  the  site 

of  the  dockyard. 
/(.    Perennial  fountain. 


the  mountain-crests  of  Corsica  beyond.  ]^ut  those  of  Sardinia 
lire  not  visible,  though  Strabo  has  recorded  his  experience  to  the 
contrar}',  and  ]\Iacaulay,  on  Ins  authority,  has  sung  of 

"  sea-girt  Populonia, 
Whose  sentinels  descry 
Sardinia's  snowy  mountain-tops 
Frinf^infj  the  southern  sky." 


Even  were  the  distance  not  too  great,  the  broad  mass  of  Elba 
which  fills  the  south-western  horizon,  would  effectually  conceal 
them  from  the  view.  That  island  rises  in  a  long  line  of  dark 
peaks,  the  loftiest  of  which  on  the  right  is  Monte  Campana  ;  and 
the  highest  at  the  other  end  of  the  range,  is  crowned  by  the  town 
of  Rio.     Midway  lies  the  ]3ay  of  Portoferrajo,  so  called  from  its 


218 


POPULOXIA. 


[chap.  XLvr. 


shipments  of  iron  ore ;  and  the  town  itself,  the  court  of  the  exiled 
Emperor,  is  visihle  on  a  rock  jutting  into  the  bay/ 

The  tinest  portions  of  the  Ktruscan  walls  lie  on  this  western 
side  of  Populonia,  and  from  the  magnitude  of  the  masonry  are 
appropriateh'  termed  "  I  Massi."  They  are  represented  in  the 
annexed  woodcut.     They  are  formed  of  blocks,  less  rectangular. 


ETRUSCAN   WALLS    OF    POPULOXIA. 


perhaps,  than  those  of  Volterra,  but  laid  horizontally,  though. 
with  little  regularit}'.  More  care  seems  to  have  been  bestowed 
on  smoothing  the  surface  of  the  masonry  than  on  its  arrange- 
ment ;  and  it  is  often  vain  to  attempt  to  count  the  number  of 


^  rortoferrajo  is  20  miles  fi-om  Popu- 
lonia, but  the  nearest  point  of  Elba  is  not 
more  than  15  miles.  He  who  would  cross 
to  that  island  must  do  so  from  Follonica  or 
Piombino — better  from  the  latter,  from 
■which  it  is  only  8  miles  distant,  and 
■whence  there  is  a  regular  communication. 
As  the  island  belonged  to  the  Etniscans, 
remains  of  that  people  maj-  be  e.vpected  to 
exist  there,  but  I  have  never  heard  of  such 
being  discovered  ;  and  I  have  had  no  op- 
portunity of  visiting  it  for  personal  research. 
Sir  Kichard  C.  Iloare  describes  some  ancient 
remains  at  Le  (irotte,  opposite  Portofer- 
rajo,  and  on  Capo  Castello,  where  they  are 
called  the  "Palazzo  della  Regina  dell' 
Elba," — he  considers  both  to   be   of  the 


same  date,  and  his  description  seems  to 
indicate  them  as  Roman. — Classical  Tour, 
I.  pp.  23,  26.  Elba,  however,  has  more 
interest  for  the  naturalist  than  for  the 
antiquary.  It  is,  as  Repetti  observes, 
' '  the  best  stored  mineralogical  cabinet  iu 
Tuscany."  Its  iron  mines  have  been  re- 
nowned from  the  days  of  the  Ronnns  (ut 
supra,  page  215j,  and  Virgil  (.■Eu.  X.  174) 
truly  calls  Elba, 


Insula   inexhaustis 
mctallis. 


clialvbum   generosa 


For  an  account  of  this  beautiful  island  and 
its  productions  see  llepetti,  II.  i:  Isola 
dell'  Elba. 


CHAP.  xLvi.]  ETEUSCAX    WALLS    AXD    TOMBS.  219 

courses,  as  blocks  of  very  different  heights  lie  side  by  side. 
None  of  them  are  of  the  vast  dimensions  of  some  at  Fiesole  and 
Yolterra.^  But  the  frequent  sjilitting  of  the  rock  often  renders 
it  difficult  to  determine  their  original  size  and  form  ;  and  in  i)arts 
gives  them  a  very  irregular  character.^  In  other  parts,  more  to 
the  south,  the  walls  are  composed  of  long  and  very  shallow 
com'ses,  the  rock  having  there  a  tendency'  to  sj^lit  in  thin  lamince. 
As  in  all  other  Etruscan  Availing,  there  is  an  entire  absence  of 
cement  and  cramping. 

In  every  part  of  the  circuit,  the  walls  of  Populonia  are  em- 
bankments only,  never  rising  above  the  level  of  the  city,  as  is 
sometimes  the  case  at  Volterra  and  at  Cosa.  -In  no  part  are 
they  now  to  be  seen  more  than  ten  or  twelve  feet  in  height. 

The  other  Etruscan  remains  of  Populonia  are  a  few  tombs  in 
the  surrounding  slopes.  About  a  quarter  of  a  mile  below  the 
walls  to  the  south,  are  some  sepulchres,  called,  like  the  vaults 
in  the  theatre  of  Fiesole,  Le  Buche  delle  Fate — "the  Fairies' 
Dens."  They  are  hollowed  in  low  cliffs  of  yellow  sandstone, 
and  have  passages  cut  down  to  them,  as  in  the  southern  part  of 
Etruria,  but  have  no  monumental  facade.  Thev  seem  to  have 
been  circular,  but  the  rock  is  so  friable  that  the  original  form  is 
nearl}'  destroyed.  How  long  they  have  been  opened  I  could  not 
learn.  They  are  not  to  be  found  without  a  guide,  as  tlie  path  to 
them  lies  through  a  dense  wood  of  tall  lentiscus. 

On  the  hill  to  the  east  of  Populonia,  and  about  one  mile  from 
the  castle,  are  other  tombs,  opened  in  1840  bv  Signor  Francois ; 
and  known  by  the  name  of  Le  Grotte.  They  are  within  a 
tumulus  ;  and  other  similar  mounds,  probably  containing  tombs, 
rise  on  this  spot.-     The  tombs  were   constructed   of  slabs  put 

^  The  block  marked  «  in  the  woodcut  is  rectangular  ;  but  if  carefully  examined  it 

6  ft.  t;  in.  by  '1  ft.  G  in.  — that  marked  b  is  will  be  generally  found  that  the  most  irre- 

5  ft.   4  in.   by  2  ft.   2  in.     The    largest  I  gular  are  mere  splittings  from  larger  blocks  ; 

could  find  "was  7  feet  in  length  ;  few  ai'c  for  the  rock,    a  schistose  sand -stone,  has 

more   than   2  feet    in   height,    and    many  split,    perhaps  from    the    superincumbent 

much  less  than  one.     It  may  be  observetl  weight,  and  often  diagonally,  so  as  to  con- 

liere,    as   at  Volterra  and   otiier  sites    in  vert  a  qiuidrangular  mass  into  two  or  more 

northern  Etruria,    that   the    smallest  and  of  triangular  form  ;  an  example  of  which 

shallowest    blocks    arc    generally   at    the  is   sho\\ii  in  the  woodcut  at  p.  218.      In 

bottom,  as  if  to  make  a  good  foundation  truth,  it  is  singular  to  observe  how  closely 

for  the  larger  masses.  this  masonry  in  some  pai'ts  resembles  the 

*  The  walls   of   Populonia    have    been  natural  rock,  when  split  by  time  or  the 

styled  polygonal  (Gerhard,  Meraor.  Inst.  I.  elements.     The  most  in-egular  masses,  how- 

p.  79)  ;    but  I   could  perceive    nothing  to  ever,    are  trapezoidal  or  triangular ;    and 

warrant  such  a  nomenclature.     It  is  true  horizontality  is  throughout  the  distinctive 

that  small  pieces  are  often  inserted  to  till  chai-acter  of  the  masonry, 
the  interstices,  and  few  blocks  are  strictly  -  Inghirami,  I'ull.  Inst.  1843,  p.  148. 


220  POPULOXTA.  [chap.  xlvi. 

together  without  cement.  They  had  ah'eady  been  rifled  of  their 
most  precious  contents  in  former  ages,  so  that  little  was  learnt 
of  the  sepulchral  furniture  of  Populonia.^  Some  painted  vases, 
however,  with  both  black  and  red  ligures,  have  been  found  in 
the  slopes  near  the  sea. 

Not  a  vestige  now  remains  of  the  docks  or  slips  which  Strabo 
tells  us  ancientl}'  existed  at  Populonia.^ 

We  learn  from  coins  that  the  Etruscan  name  of  this  city  was 
"PurruxA,"^ — a  name  which  seems  to  be  derived  from  the 
Etruscan  Bacchus — "  Phuphluns  ;  " "  as  Mantua  was  from  the 
Etruscan  Pluto — Mantus  ;  if  it  be  not  rather  a  compound  word  ; 
for  "  Luna  "  being  found  in  the  names  of  three  Etruscan  towns, 
all  on  this  coast — Luna,  Pup-luna,  A'et-luna — seems  significant 
of  a  maritime  character." 

Populonia  is  one  of  the  few  Etruscan  cities  of  which  coins, 
unquestionably  genuine,  have  been  found.  They  are  of  gold  and 
silver,  as  well  as  of  bronze,  and  generally  have  one  or  two  small 
crosses,  which  mark  their  value.  The  emblems  are  often  signi- 
ficant of  the  commerce  of  the  town.  The  head  of  Vulcan  ;  a 
hammer  and  tongs,  on  the  reverse — in  allusion  to  its  iron- 
foundries.  The  head  of  Merciuy ;  a  caduceus  and  trident — 
indicative  of  its  commerce  and  maritime  importance.  The  head 
of  ]\Iinerva ;  an  owl,  with  a  crescent  moon  and  two  stars.^     But 


•'  The  excavations  made  here  in  IS'iO  by  But  may  it  not  be,  on  tlie  contrary,  that 

Noel  des  Vergers  in  conjunction  witli  Fi-an-  the  god  took  this  name  from  the  town,  as 

igois,  were  in-ofitless  from  the  same  cause.  Venus   did  hers  of  Cypris  and  Cytherea, 

The  hist  excavations  on  this  site  were  made  from    her    favourite    islands  ?     It    is   not 

by  Dr.  Schliemann,  of  Trojan  celebrity,  but  imiirobable     that     the     Etruscan     name 

so  far  as  I  can  learn  they  proved  fruitless.  "  Pupli,"  "  Puplina"  (Publius),  had  some 

His  selection  of  an   Etruscan  site  for  his  affinity  to  "  Pui)luna." 

•enterprise  was  not  felicitous.  '    I't  .inpra,  page  (i". 

■•  Strabo,  V.  p.  223.  ^  Another  type  of  Populonia  is  a  female 

'  It  is  sometimes  written  "Pu1'LAN.\,"  head,    helmeted,  with  a  fish  by  its  side; 

or  contracted  into  "  Pup.  "     The  town  w:i.s  this    Lanzi    thinks    refers    to   the    tunny 

*;alled  Pojiulonia  by  Virgil,  Servius,  Mela,  fisheries  mentioned  by  Strabo.     Other  coins 

and    Rutilius— Populonii,    by    Livy — and  have  a  wild-boar — an  apt  emblem  of  the 

Poplonium,  or  Populonium,  by  Strabo,  the  Maremma  ;  or  a  lion,  about  to   seize  his 

Pseudo-Aristotle,  Stephanus,  Ptolemy,  and  prey,  which  Millingen  thinks  is  an  imita- 

the  Itineraries.  tion  of  an  Ionic  coin.     One  mentioned  by 

^  Bacchus   is  so   designated   on  sever.d  Eckhel,  with  a  female  head  covered  with  a 

Etruscan   mirrors — e.f/.    that  which  forms  lion's   skin,   and   a  club    on    the    reverse, 

the  frontispiece  to  Vol.   I.   of  this  work.  Miiller  considers  significant  of  the  Lydian 

See  Gerliard,   Etrusk.   Spieg.   taf.    83,  84,  origin  of  the  Etruscans.     Many  of  the  coins 

90.     Micali  (Ant.   Pop.   Ital.   III.   p.  173)  of  Populonia  have  the  peculiarity  of  having 

•would  derive  Populonia  from  this  source  ;  the  reverse  quite  bare.     For  descriptions 

and  so  also  Gerhard  (Ann.  Inst.  1S33,  p.  and  illustrations  of  these  coins,  see  Passeri, 

193       Gottheiten   der    Etrusker,    p.    2U).  Paralip.   in  Dempst.  tab.  V.  3-5  ;  Lanzi, 


cHAi>.  xLvi.]         ETRUSCAN    COINS— GORGOXEIOX. 


221 


the  most  reiiiavkablc  iy\^^'  on  llic  coins  of  Poi)uIoni;i  is  the 
Gor(jonclini ;  not  here  "  tlie  head  of  the  fair-clieeked  ^Medusa — '"** 

"  A  woman's  countenance  with  serpent  locks." — 

as  it  is  represented  by  the  sculptors  of  later  Greece  find  of 
Ktruria,  and  b}'  Ijconardo  da  Yinci,  in  his  celebrated  picture  ; 
but  a  monstrous  tiend-like  visage,  just  as  in  the  subjoined  wood- 
cut,^ with  snaky  hair,  gnashing  tusks,  and  tongue  lolling  out  of 

'•  The  open  mouth,  that  seemed  to  containe 
A  full  good  pecke  within  the  utmost  brim. 
All  set  with  yron  teeth  in  rauuges  twaine. 
That  terrifiih^  his  foes,  and  armed  him, 
Appearing  like  the  mouth  of  Orcus  griesly  grim." 


ETRUSCAX    GOKGONEIOX. 


Saggio,  II.  pp.  27,  81,  tav.  II.  IS  ; 
Micali,  Ant.  Pop.  Ital.  tav.  115  ;  Ital.  av. 
Horn.  tav.  59-61  ;  Jlon.  Ined.  p.  348,  ct 
seq.  tav.  54.  Miiller,  Etrusk.  I.  pp.  3-23, 
330  ;  Mionnet,  Med.  Ant.  I.  pp.  101-2  ; 
Suppl.  I.  pp.  199-203  ;  Sestini,  Geog. 
Nuinis.  II.  p.  5  ;  Milhngen,  Numis.  Anc. 
Itahe,  p.  163  et  seq.;  cf.  Capranesi,  Ann. 
Inst.  1840,  p.  204  ;  Abeken,  MittelitaHen, 
taf.  11.  1-3. 

'J  Pindar,  Pytli.  XII.  28. 

'  Tliis  cut  is  taken  from  a  vase  of  Cliiusi, 
but  it  is  characteristic  of  the  Etruscan 
Gorgoneion. 

The   Gorgon's    head,    according   to   the 


Orphic  doctrines,  was  a  symbol  of  the 
lunar  disk.  Epigenes,  ap.  Clem.  Ale.xaiul. 
Strom.  V.  p.  676,  ed.  Potter, 

A  singular  opinion  has  been  broached  by 
Dr.  Levezow  of  Bei-lin — that  the  tyjjc  of 
the  Gorgon  of  antiquity  was  nothing  but 
an  ape  or  ourang-outang,  seen  on  the 
African  coast  by  some  early  Greek  or 
Phoenician  mariner  ;  and  that  its  ferocious 
air,  its  horrible  tusks,  its  features  and  form 
caricaturing  humanity,  seized  on  his  imagi- 
nation, which  reproduced  the  monster  in 
the  series  of  las  myths.  See  a  review  of 
Levezow's  work  by  the  Due  de  Luynes, 
Ann.  Inst.  1834,  pp.  311-332. 


£cv)a\^."> 


ETKUSCAX    WALLS    OF    RUSELLJ. 


CHAPTER    XLVII. 

-ROSELLE.—BUSELL.E. 

Jam  silvfe  steriles,  et  putres  robore  tninci 
Assaraci  pressere  domos,  et  templa  Deorum, 
Jam  lassa  raJice  teneut,  ac  tota  teguntur 
Pergama  dumetis  ;  et  jam  i)eriere  i-uinse. — LucAif. 

From  Follonica  to  Grosseto  by  railroad,  there  are  42  kilo- 
metres or  25  miles.  There  is  a  track  aloncj  the  coast  direct  to 
Castiglion  della  Pescaja,  leaving  the  Torre  di  Troja,  the  Trajanus 
Portus  of  antiquity,^  to  the  right.  The  rail-road  leaves  the  coast 
at  Follonica,  and  runs  inland  for  half  the  way  through  a  long 
barren  valley,  between  heights  covered  with  brushwood,  on  which 
to  the  right  stand  the  villages  of  Scarlino,  Gavorrano,  Caldana 
and  Giuncarico.  At  the  foot  of  the  heights,  below  Gavorrano,  is 
the  station  of  Potassa,  with  its  Locanda,  nine  miles  from  Follonica. 
Beyond  Giuncarico,  the  sceneiy  begins  to  improve,  and  Colonna 
di  Buriano  on  a  wooded  height  three  miles  to  the  right,  is  a  pic- 
turesque feature  in  the  landscape.  This  is  supposed  to  be  the 
Colonia,  near  which,  in  the  year  of  Rome  529,  took  place  the 
Jireat  rout  of  the  Gauls,  commonh'  called  the  battle  of  Telamon.- 


'  Ftol.  Geog.  p.  63,  ed.  Bert. 
-  It  is  Frontinus    Strat.  I.   i 


7)  w'jo 


mentions  Colonia  (some   readings  have  it 
Poplonia)  as  the  site  of  that  battle.     Poly- 


CHAP.  xLvii.]  GROSSETO.  223 

At  Lupo,  a  wretched  rnhdrcf — a  mere  iroirs  dm — you  einerffe 
from  the  vaUev  iiit(j  a  vast,  treeless,  liouseless  moor,  or  rather 
swamp,  calk'd  tlie  Lago  Castiglione,  the  liacus  Prelius  or  Aprilis 
of  antiquity,  whieli  realises  all  your  worst  conceptions  of  the 
!Marennna,  its  putrescent  fens,  its  desolate  scenery.  The  railway 
makes  a  wide  circuit  at  tlie  edge  of  the  swamp,  crossing  the  valley 
of  the  Bruna,  wliere  many  villages  gleam  from  the  distant  liill- 
slopes,  the  last  of  tliem  being  Monte  Pescali  on  an  olive-clad, 
triple-towered  height,  two  juiles  from  the  station.  Here  the  line 
forks,  one  branch  turning  inland  up  the  valley  of  the  Orcia  to 
Montalcino  and  Siena.  If  the  morass  have  its  horrors,  it  is  not 
necessary  to  linger  amid  them,  for  the  train  soon  reaches  tlie 
gates  of  Grosseto. 

Grosseto,  the  capital  of  the  Tuscan  Maremma,  stands  on  the 
very  level  of  the  jdain.  It  has  live  thousand  inhabitiints — a 
population  almost  doubled  in  winter ;  and  in  comparison  with 
the  towns  and  villages  in  its  neighbourhood,  it  seems  an  oasis  of 
civilisation  ;  for  it  has  an  air  of  neatness  and  cleanliness,  hanging 
gardens  on  its  ramparts,  a  small  but  pretty  cathedral,  a  faint 
reflection  of  the  glories  of  Siena,  a  theatre,  and  an  inn,  "  La 
Stella  d'ltalia,"  whose  praises  I  cannot  express  better  than  by 
saying  it  is  the  best  in  the  Marem}na,  between  Pisa  and  Piome. 
The  j^adrone,  Signore  Civinini,  is  successor  to  the  widow 
Palandri,  formerly  known  far  and  wide  throughout  the  Maremma 
— not  onl}^  for  the  excellence  <jf  her  accommodation,  but  for 
her  boast  of  having  resided,  maid,  wife,  and  widow,  more  than 
sixty  years  at  Grosseto,  summer  as  well  as  winter,  and  always  in 
robust,  uninterrupted  health — a  living  monument  of  the  elasticity 
of  the  human  frame,  and  of  its  power  to  resist  by  habituation  the 
most  noxious  influences  of  Nature.  For  Grosseto,  though  pro- 
tected from  the  assaults  of  man  by  fortifications,  has  no  safeguard 
against  the  insidious  attacks  of  the  marsh-fever,  which  desolates 
it  in  summer  ;  and  the  proverbial  saying,  "  Grosseto  inf/rossa  "  is 
no  mere  play  upon  words,  nor  is  it  to  be  taken  ironicall}^  but 
refers  to  the  bloating,  dropsifying  effect  of  the  oft-recurring  fever. 
Grosseto  has  little  interest  to  the  antiquary,  beyond  its  Museum, 

bins  (II.  '27)  says  it  was  fought  neai'  Te-  coins  and  other  antiquarian  treasures  are 

lanion,  and  describes  it  as  to  tlic  north  of  .stated  to  have  been  discovered  around  the 

that  iilace.     There  is  no  valid  ground  for  town.     Cluver  (II.  p.  475)  takes  this  Co- 

lilacing  it  at  Colonna,  wliich,  however,  is  lonna  to  be  the  Salebro  of  the  Itineraries, 

said  to  have  some  remains  of  Cycloiiean  Hy  otliers  it  lias  been  supposed  to  be  the 

walling,    with    Roman    pavement   on    the  site  of  Vetulonia. 
summit  of  the   hill  ;    and  vases,  Roman 


224  EUSELL.^.  [chap,  xlvii. 

and  its  vicinity  to  the  ancient  Etruscan  city  of  I\uselliP,  Avhicli 
lies  some  five  miles  to  the  north,  near  the  high-road  to  Siena. 

The  ]\Iuseum,  whicli  is  in  the  Town-hall  of  Grosseto,  is  of  very 
recent  formation,  but  from  the  numerous  donations  received  from 
the  possessors  of  Etruscan  anti(|uities,  it  ak-eady  begins  to  make 
a  respectable  ajipearance. 

On  the  ground-floor  are  fourteen  m-ns  of  alabaster  from  Yol- 
terra  and  other  Etruscan  sites.  Among  the  subjects  represented 
are  the  Death  of  (Enomaus — Scylla  with  fishes'-tails — a  waggon- 
scene  -with  the  soul  reclining  within  the  car,  or,  it  may  be,  a  sarco- 
phagus with  the  offig}'  of  the  deceased,  on  its  way  to  the  sepulchre 
— the  parting  of  a  married  j)air,  the  wife  inside  a  doorway,  the 
husband  without,  the  usual  Fury  with  a  torch  being  present — two 
boj-s  mounted  on  leopards,  vis-a-vis,  and  a  Avoman  kneeling 
between  them — Charun  striking  down  a  victim  with  his  mallet, 
while  a  Fury  seizes  another  wretched  being  by  tlie  hair.  The  best 
preserved  of  these  urns  is  one  in  which  two  men  are  represented 
slaying  two  Avomen  at  an  altar,  while  a  Fury,  torch  in  hand,  is 
looking  on. 

The  rest  of  the  antiquities  are  on  the  upi)er  floor.  The  jDottery 
is  mostly  of  plain  clay  from  Piusellfe,  but  there  is  also  some  red 
ware,  like  that  of  Arezzo,  from  the  same  site,  some  cock-crowned 
vases  and  other  articles  in  hncchcro  from  Chiusi,  and  a  few  i)ainted 
vases  of  little  beauty.  The  most  interesting  pottery  in  this 
collection  is  the  late  ware  of  Volsinii,  of  plain  unglazed  clay,  but 
of  elegant  forms,  decorated  with  figures,  foliage,  fruit  and  flowers 
in  relief,  and  bearing  traces  of  colour.  This  ware  resembles  the 
silvered  vases  of  Orvieto. 

A  black  bowl  of  ordinary  Avare  is  inscribed  Avith  the  Etruscan 
alphabet,  in  characters  rudely  scratched  on  the  clay,  a  co^n-  of 

ETRUSCAN    ALPHABKr,    OX    A    VASK,    GROSSETO    MUSECir. 

which  is  given  in  the  Avoodcut.  In  (iroek  letters  the  alphabet 
Avould  run  thus  : — 

A,  r,  E,  F,  (digammn),  Z,  H,  (aspirate),  0.  I.  K,  A,  M,  N,  U, 
Z,  (accented),  Q,  (koppa),  P,  Z,  T,  Y,  0,  X,  <l>. 

The  resemblance  between  tliis  alphabet  and  that  inscribed  on 


CHAP.  xLvii.]     GEOSSETO  MUSEUM— SITE    OF   RUSELL.T^.  2To 

a  oup  found  at  Bomarzo  is  striking.^  Tliis,  however,  should  be 
of  Liter  date,  as  it  has  the  kappa  and  koppa  in  addition.  I 
coukl  not  learn  where  this  interesting  bowl  had  been  discovered. 

There  are  a  gold  necklace,  and  some  rings,  from  Corneto,  and 
sundry  bronzes,  though  none  from  UuselhTe  worthy  of  the  re^nita- 
tion  its  necropolis  has  acquired.  There  is  a  case  of  bronze  idols, 
and  a  second  case  full  of  falsifications.  So  again  with  the  coins. 
Besides  some  genuine  money  of  ancient  Ktruria,  there  are  many 
specimens  of  the  ^T'Js  [/rare  of  modern  manufacture,  all  presented 
in  good  faith  as  genuine  antiques.  In  fact  the  fabrication  of 
Etruscan  relics,  especially  of  bronzes,  is  now  going  forward  on  an 
extensive  scale  in  this  purt  of  Ital^',  and  travellers  should  be  on 
their  guard  when  such  I'oha  is  offered  to  them  for  purchase.  In 
tliis  jNIuseum  the  genuine  bronzes  are  exhibited  in  one  case,  tlie 
false  ones  in  another ;  thus  the  amateur  has  the  opportunity  of 
comparing  them,  and  of  learning  to  distinguish  them  for  the 
future. 

At  the  distance  of  about  four  miles  to  the  north  are  the 
liot-springs,  called  I  Bagni  di  Roselle.  Above  them  rises  a  lofty 
liill,  Poggio  di  Moscona,  crowned  with  some  ruins,  which  the 
traveller  will  be  apt  to  mistake  for  those  of  Rusellre."^  At  the 
little  wineshop  hard  by  the  Baths  a  guide  is  generally  to  be  had. 
I  found  not  one,  but  half  a  dozen — 3'oung  peasants,  who  had 
come  to  hear  mass  in  the  little  chapel,  and  were  returning  to  the 
site  of  Ituselhe,  where  their  cattle  were  grazing.  There  are  two 
ways  hence  to  the  ancient  city,  one  on  each  side  of  the  lofty  hill 
(jf  Moscona.  It  would  not  be  amiss  to  go  one  way  and  return 
the  other.  I  took  the  })atli  to  the  right,  and  after  traversing  a 
tract  of  imderwood  for  a  couple  of  miles,  ascended  the  steep 
slope  on  whicli  Busella3  was  situated.  The  hill  is  one  of  those 
truncated  cones  often  chosen  by  the  Etruscans  for  the  site  of 
their  cities,  as  at  Orvieto,  Saturnia,  and  Cosa  ;  and  the  slopes 
around  it  are  covered  with  wood,  so  dense  that  it  etfectually 
conceals  the  walls  from  the  spectator  at  a  distance.  By  this  road 
I  entered  llusella.'  on  its  south-western  side.  I  then  turned  to 
the  right  and  followed  the  line  of  walls,  which  are  traceable  in 
detached  fragments  along  the  In-ow  of  the  hill. 

At  first,  the  masonry  was  horizontal — rudely  so  indeed,  like 
that  of  Yolterra  and  l*opulonia,  but  such  was  its  decided  cha- 
racter, though  small  stones  were  inserted  in  the  interstices  of  the 

^  See  Vol.  I,  p.  172.  mistake,  and  at  first  pas.se J  Kusellse  with- 

*  Sir   llichard   Colt   Uoarc    made    this       out  seeing  it.     Classical  Tour,  I.  p.  49. 
VOL.    II.  Q 


226 


EUSELL^. 


[chap,  xlvii. 


large  masses/  But  when  I  had  gained  the  eastern  side  of  the 
city,  I  found  all  rectangularity  and  horizontality  at  an  end,  the 
walls  being  composed  of  enormous  masses  piled  up  without 
regai'd  to  form,  and  differing  only  iVoiii  the  rudest  style  of 
Cyclopean,  as  described  by  Pausanias,  in  iiaving  the  outer  sur- 
faces smoothed.     Speaking  of  Tiryns  in  Argolis,  tliat  writer  says, 


>V'^'^^ 


PERTICH£  OF 
S  FLORENTINE  BRACCIA  EACH 


Adapted  ii'om  iiicali. 


I'LAN    OF    UrSELL.i:. 


a.  a.   Line  of  Etniscau  •walls.  c.    Vaulted  cisterns. 

h.   I'ortion  of  ditto,  represented  in  woodcut  /.   Remains  of  ancient  buildings, 

at  p.  222.  //.   Quarry  of  travertine. 

c.  \Yalle(l  inclosure,  probably  the  Arx.  h.  Quany  uf  s<uidstiiue. 

d,  d.   Sites  of  gates.  /.   Etruscan  tomb. 

"  The  walls,  which  are  the  only  ruins  remaining,  are  the  work  of 
the  Cyclops,  and  are  formed  of  unhewn  blocks,  each  of  which  is 
so  huge  that  the  smallest  of  them  could  not  be  in  the  least  stirred 
by  a  3'oke  of  mules.  Small  stones  were  fitted  in  of  old,  in  such  a 
way  that  each  of  them  is  of  great  service  in  uniting  the  large 
blocks.'"*  In  these  walls  of  Ruselhe  small  blocks  are  intermixed 
with  tlie  large  masses,  occupying  the  interstices,  and  are  often  in 
some  measure  litted  to  the  form  of  the  gap.  The  irregularity 
and  shapelessness  of  this  masonry  is  partly  owing  to  the  traver- 


^  It  is  this  regular  portion  of  the  walls 
•which  is  represented  in  the  %voodcut  at  the 
Lead  of  this  chai)ter.     They  are  here  about 


1')  feet  high  ;  the  block  marked  a  is  7  feet 
4  inches  long,  by  .')  feet  4  inches  in  height. 
«  rausau.^II.  25,  7  ;  of.  II.  16,  4. 


(LAP.  xLvri.]  ETRUSCAN    WAIJ.S.  227 

tine  ofAvhuliit  is  composed;  tliiit  iiuitcrial  not  so  readily  splitting 
into  pol^yc^onal  forms  as  limestone,  but  ratlier  having  a  horizontal 
eleavage." 

This  nnisonry  then  cannot  be  correctly  described  either  as 
"  Cyclopean,"  like  that  of  Tiryiis,  because  the  outer  surface  is 
hewn,  or  as  "  polygonal,"  for  the  blocks  are  not  cut  into  deter- 
minate forms. 

The  masses  are  in  general  very  large,  \arving  from  six  to  ten 
feet  in  length,  and  from  four  to  eight  in  height.  Some  stand 
vtn-ticall}'  seven  or  eight  feet,  by  four  or  five  in  width,  and  I 
observed  one  nearly  thirteen  feet  in  length.''  The  difficulty  of 
raising  such  huge  blocks  into  their  places  Avould  be  immense  ; 
but  I  believe  that  in  nearly  all  these  cases  where  the  walls  are 
formed  of  the  local  rock,  they  have  been  let  down  from  above — 
that  the  top  of  the  insulated  height  chosen  for  the  site  of  the  city 
was  levelled,  and  the  masses  thus  quarried  off  were  used  in  the 
fortifications.  There  are  still  some  deep  pits  in  one  part  of  the 
city,  whence  stone  has  been  cut.  The  walls  on  the  eastern  side 
of  the  city  are  in  several  parts  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  high  ;  but  on 
the  north,  where  they  are  most  perfect,  they  rise  to  the  height  of 
twenty  to  thirty  feet.  Here  the  largest  blocks  are  to  be  seen, 
and  the  masonry  is  most  Tirynthian  in  character  ;  here  also  the 
walls  ai'e  not  mere  embankments,  but  rise  above  the  level  of  the 
city.  On  the  western  side  there  are  few  fragments  extant,  and 
those  are  of  smaller  and  more  regular  masonry  than  in  any  other 
part  of  the  circuit.  On  this  side  are  man}'  traces  of  an  inner  wall 
banking  up  the  higher  ground  within  the  city,  and  composed  of 
small  rectangular  blocks,  corresponding  in  size  with  those  usually 

'  These   walls    are    cited    liy    Gerhard  as   "decidedly  polygonal " — a  term  hy  no 

(Ann.  Inst.  1829,  p.  40;  cf.  1831,  j).  410,  means   ajjplii-aljle  ;    for   there    is    nothing' 

tav.    d'agg.   F.  1.)  as  an   e.xiimple  of   the  here   resenilding   the  ancient    masonry   of 

rudest  and  most  ancient  kind  of  Cyclopean  Cosa,  or  of  Segui,  Ahitri,  and  other  poly- 

inasomy,    similar  to   those  of  Tiryns  and  gonal  fortifications  of  Central  Italy.      He 

Mycena'    in    Argolis,    and  of   Arpino   and  also  states  that  all  the  polygonal  jjortions 

Avitidcna  iu  Italy  ;  but  the  .smoothing  of  of  these  walls  are  of  hard  limestone,  while 

the  outer  surface  distinguishes  them  from  the    regular    masonry   is    of    macif/no,    or 

the  Cyclopean  walls  of  Pausanias,   as  well  stratified  sandstone.     I  may  be  allowed  to 

as  from   the    ancient    walls  above    Monte  question  this  fact,  for  to  me  the  rock  ap- 

Fortino,  thought  to  be  those  of  Ailena  of  peared  to  be  travertine  throughout.     This 

the  Volsci,  and  from  those  at  Civitella  and  is  confirmed  by  Repetti,  IV.  p.  820. 

Olevano,  on  the  oi)posite  range  of  moun-  '*  I  add  the  dimensions  of  a  few  of  these 

tains  ;    all  of  wliich   are  in  every  respect  blocks — 8  feet  4  inches  high,    by   3  feet 

uidiewn.     Mr.  Bnnbury,  on  the  other  hand  2  imhes  wide — 12  feet  8  inches  long,   by 

(Class.  JIus.  V.  p.  180),   though  he  does  2  feet  10  inches  high — 7  feet  4  inches,  by 

not  sjieak  from  personal  acquaintance  with  4  feet  10  inches— 6  feet  4  inches,  by  5  feet 

Ruselhv,    describes   portions    of  the   walls  4  incjics. 

Q  2 


228  EUSELL.!::.  [chap,  xlvii. 

forming  city-walls  in  the  volcanic  district  of  the  land.  The  space 
between  tliis  outer  and  inner  line  of  wall  reminded  me  of  the 
jwma'riiim,  the  sacred  space  within  and  without  the  walls  of 
Etruscan  cities,  no  signs  of  which  have  I  been  able  to  trace  on 
nnv  other  ancient  site.'''  It  is  true  that  in  this  part  the  inner 
wall  embanks  the  high  moimd  to  the  north,  which  there  is  reason 
to  suppose  was  the  Arx ;  but  the  same  walling  is  to  be  traced 
round  another  mound  at  the  south-eastern  angle,  as  well  as  at 
several  intermediate  points  ;  which  makes  me  suspect  there  was 
a  continuous  line  of  it. 

The  area  enclosed  by  the  walls  forms  an  irregular  quadrangle, 
between  ten  and  eleven  thousand  feet,  or  about  two  miles,  in 
circuit.^  The  city  then  was  much  smaller  than  Yolterra,  yet 
larger  than  Populonia  or  Fiesole. 

I  traced  the  sites  of  six  gates — two  on  the  northern  side,  one  at 
each  angle ;  two  in  the  eastern  wall,  and  two  also  in  the  western. 
In  the  southern  I  could  perceive  no  such  traces. 

Let  no  one  venture  to  explore  the  site  of  Rusellie  who  is  not 
prepared  for  a  desperate  undertaking,  who  is  not  thorn-proof  in 
the  strength  or  the  Avorthlessness  of  his  raiment.  To  ladies  it  is. 
a  curiosity  more  effectually  tabooed  than  a  Carthusian  convent; 
tliev  can  hardly  even  approach  its  Avails.  The  area  of  the  city 
and  the  slopes  around  are  densely  covered  with  a  tliorny  shrub, 

'•*  The  pomcerlinn  was   a  space  marked  IV.  p.  218  ;  Varro,  L.  L.  Y.  143  ;  riiitarcb. 

out  by  the  founder  within,   or  without,  or  Romuh  ;  Aul.  Gell.  XIII.  14;  Tacit.  Ann. 

on  both  .sides  of,   the  walls  of  an  Etruscan  XII.    24,    25  ;    Festus,    v.    Prosiiuurium  ; 

citj',  or  of  those  cities,  which,  like  Kome,  Serv.  ad  Virg.   Mn.   YI.  197  ;  Cicero,  de 

wei'C  built  according  to  the  Etruscan  ritual ;  Divin.  I.  17;  II.  35;  cf.   MUller,  Etrusk. 

and  it  was  so  called  by  the  Romans,  be-  III.  6,  9.     Xiebuhr  (I.  p.  288)  thinks  the 

cause  it  was  post  muriim,  or  pone  vuiros  "word  ^wh(«}v'«»i  seems  j^roperly  to  denote 

as  A.  Gellius  says,  or  proxiinum  muro  as  a  suburb  taken  into  the  city,  and  included 

Festus    intimates.     Though    its    name    is  within  tlie  range  of  its  auspices." 
Roman,  its  origin  was  undoubtedly  Etrus-  If    the   above-mentioned   space   in    the 

can;  and  it  was  marked  out  by  the  plough,  walls  of  Rusellie  were  the  ponucrium,  of 

according  to  tJie  rites  which  the  Etruscans  which  I  am  very  doubtful,  it  was  the  inner 

observed  in  founding  their  cities.     It  was  portion.      15ut  the   inner  line  of  masonry 

ever  after  held  Siicred  from  the  plough  and  may  be  merely  the   embankment   of  the 

from    liaV)itation,    and    was    used    by   the  higher  ground  within  the  city-walls,  or  it 

augurs  in  taking  the  city-auspice.s,   being  may  be  a  second  line  of  fortifications. 
divided  into   "regions"  for  that  puqiose.  ^  See   Micali's    Plan    of    Ruselhe   (Ant. 

But  when  the  city  was  enlarged  the  po-  Pop.    Ital.  tav.    3),  and  that  of  Ximenes 

mcerimii  was  also  carried  further  out,  as  (Esame   dell'  Esame   d'un   libro   soj^ra  la. 

was  the  case  with  Rome,  where  one  hill  Maremma  Sanese)  from  which  it  is  taken, 

after  another  was  included  within  it.      Its  Miiller  (Etrusk.  I.  3,  3)  cites  Ru.sellre  as 

boundaries  were  marked  Ijy  cippi  or  tcr-  an  instance  of  the  usual  quadrangular  form 

mini.     The  space   it   inclosed   was  called  of  Etruscan  cities. 
the  ager  effatus.     Liv.  I.  44  ;  Dion.  Hal. 


CHAP.  XT.vii.]     ANCIENT    AND    MODERN    DEFENCES. 


229 


•called  "  ))i(frnic((,"  which  I  had  often  admired  elsewhere  for  its 
hright  yellow  blossoms,  and  delicate  foliage  ;  but  as  an  antagonist 
it  is  most  formidable,  particularly  in  winter,  when  its  fierceness  is 
unmitigated  by  a  leafy  covering.  Even  could  one  disregard  the 
thorns,  the  difficulty  of  forcing  one's  way  through  the  thickets  is 
so  great  that  some  of  the  finest  portions  of  the  walls  are  un- 
approachable from  below,  and  in  very  few  spots  is  it  possible  to 
take  a  sketch."  "Within  the  city,  the  thickets  are  not  so  dense. 
Such  at  least  I  found  the  state  of  the  hill  in  1844,  and  such,  I 
liear,  it  is  still.  Let  him  therefore,  who  would  explore  this  site, 
keep  in  mind  the  proverb — "  txl  came,  tal  coltcllo^' — "  as  your 
meat  is,  so  must  3'our  knife  be  " — and  take  care  to  arm  himself 
for  the  struggle. 

Within  tlie  walls  are  sundry  remains.  On  the  elevated  part  to 
the  north,  which  1  take  to  have  been  the  Arx,  besides  fragments 
of  rectangular  masonry,  are  some  vaults  of  Koman  work,  which 
have  been  supposed,  it  seems  to  me  on  no  valid  grounds,  to  have 
formed  part  of  an  amphitheatre.'^  At  the  south-eastern  angle  of 
the  city  is  a  mound,  crested  by  a  triple,  concentric  square  of 
masonr}',  which  Micali  takes  to  have  been  the  Arx,  though  it 
seems  to  me  more  probably  the  site  of  a  temple  or  tower.^ 

On  the  south-western  side  of  the  city  are  three  parallel  vaults 


-  When  writers  descrilje  tlie  walls  of 
Rusella»  as  "of  well  hewn  jiaralleloinijed 
lilocks"  (Micali,  Ant.  Pop.  Ital.  I.  ]>.  144), 
or  "of  squared  Llocks  of  immense  size" 
(Cluver.  II.  I).  514),  it  is  clear  they  must 
liave  contented  themselves  with  the  por- 
tions to  the  south  and  west, — such  as  that 
represented  in  the  woodcut  at  the  head  of 
this  chapter — and  were  stopt  hy  the  viar- 
ruca  from  seeing  the  finest  fragments. 
The  murriica  seems  to  have  liad  a  long  here- 
ditary locus  .ilandl  in  this  part  of  Italy  ; 
anil  it  is  iirohahly  to  this  shrub  that  Foly- 
liius  {II.  28)  refers,  in  his  ilescription  of 
the  liattle  between  the  llomans  and  Gauls 
in  this  neighbourhood.  The  latter  were 
evidently  "freshmen"  in  the  I\Iaremnia, 
or  they  would  not  have  been  so  ready 
to  denude  themselves,  lest  their  clothes 
should  impede  them  in  passing  through  the 
thickets. 

*  Ximenes  (Ksame,  kc),  who  published 
in  177.'5,  was  the  iir.st  to  give  a  plan  of 
tliesc  ruins  as  an  amphitheatre  ;  Hoare 
(Cla,ss.  Tour,  I.  p.  04),  in  ISIS,  could  see 
nothing  of  such  a  structure,    beyond  the 


form. ;  and  that  is  not  at  the  jiresent  day 
very  apparent.  Repetti  (IV.  li.  820), 
liowever,  speaks  of  it  as  an  undoubted 
amphitheatre  ;  and  Franyois  also  so  de- 
scribes it,  stating  that  the  remains  of  the 
structure  are  in  great  part  extant.  JSidl. 
Inst.  1851,  p.  3. 

■*  The  foundations  of  the  two  outer 
quadrangles  are  not  now  very  distinct, 
though  the  terraces  can  be  traced  ;  but  the 
inner  square  preserves  its  foundations  un- 
moved, consisting  of  the  small  rectangular 
blocks  already  described — the  only  sort  of 
masonry  within  the  city- walls.  Tlies((uai-e 
is  48  feet,  and  the  thickness  of  the  wall 
5  feet  6  inches.  Within  the  square  the 
ground  sinks  in  a  deep  hollow.  This 
would  seem  to  indicate  a  tower  rather  than 
a  temple,  but  its  small  size  precludes  to 
my  mind  the  idea  of  its  being  the  citadel, 
which  on  other  Etruscan  sites  is  not  a  mere 
castle  or  keep,  as  this  must  liave  been, 
but  an  inclosure  of  such  extent  as  to  con- 
tain within  its  area  a  triple  temple,  like 
that  nn  the  Capitoline  at  Home. 


230 


EX'SELT-.^. 


[chap.  XI-VII. 


of  lioman  ojms  Inccrtuiii,  iiltmit  a  hundred  feet  long.  They  are 
sunk  in  the  high  emhanked  ground  ah'eady  mentioned,  in  ^vhich, 
not  far  from  them,  are  traces  of  a  gate  through  the  inner  line  of 
wall."' 

From  the  height  of  llusella'  you  look  southward  over  the  wide 
vale  of  the  Omhrone,  Avith  the  ruined  town  of  Istia  on  the  banks 
of  that  river  ;  but  (xrosseto  is  not  visible,  being  concealed  by  the 
loftier  heights  of  Moscona,  which  is  crowned  by  the  ruins  of  a 
circular  tower.*'  On  the  east  is  a  wooded  hollow  ;  but  on  the 
noi-th  lies  a  wide  bare  valley,  through  which  runs  the  road  to 
Siena,  and  on  the  opposite  heights  stands  the  town  of  Batignano, 
of  proverbial  insalubrity — ''  Bat'ujnano  fa  la  fossa."  On  the  west 
the  valley  widens  out  toAvards  the  great  lake  of  Castiglione,  the 
LacHs  Prelias,  or  Ajmlis,  of  antiquity,  which  of  old  must  have 
been  as  at  present  a  mere  morass,  into  Avhicli  several  rivers  dis- 
charge themselves  ;  but  it  had  then  an  island  in  the  midst,  which 
is  no  longer  distinguishable."  Castiglion  della  Pescaja  is  seen  on 
the  shore  at  the  foot  of  the  hills  which  rise  behind  the  promontory 
of  Troja. 

Scarcely  a  trace  of  the  necropolis  had  been  discovered  Avhen  I 
first  visited  Paiselhe  ;  for  no  excavations  had  been  made  on  this 


^  At  this  siJot  the  masonry  of  tlie  eni- 
liaiikinent,  each  course  of  ■nliich  recedes 
from  that  below  it,  as  at  the  Ara  Regina  of 
Tarciuinii,  terminates  abi-u^jtly,  so  as  to 
leave  an  even  break  all  the  way  up, 
making  it  clear  that  here  was  a  gate,  or  a 
roadway,  to  the  high  ground  witliiu  the 
emliankmeut. 

''  I  did  not  ascend  this  height,  but  Sir 
Richard  Hoare,  who  sought  here  for  the 
ruins  of  Rusella?,  desci'ibes  this  tower  as 
l)uilt  over  subterranean  vaults,  apparently 
reservoirs.     Classical  Tour,  I.  p.  50. 

'  This  lake,  or  rather  swamp,  is  called 
"  Aprilis,''  by  tlic  Itiiiei'aries  (see  page 
•ill).  Cicero  (pn.  Milone,  27)  calls  it 
"  I'relius,"  and  speaks  of  its  island.  Pliny 
(III.  8)  must  mean  the  same  when  lie 
mentions  the  "  amnes  Prille,"  a  little  to 
the  north  of  the  Tmbro.  These  "amnes" 
seem  to  refer  to  .several  mouths  or  emis- 
saries to  the  lake.  The  island  of  which 
Cicero  sjieaks  is  by  some  supposed  to  have 
been  the  hill  of  ]5adia  al  Fango,  nearly  two 
miles  from  the  lake,  but  Repetti  (IV.  ji. 
10)  considers  it  ratlier  to  have  been  a 
little  mouml  now  called  Badiola,  nn  which 
are  .still  .some  remains  of  ancient  building.s, 


and  which  he  thinks  in  the  time  of  Cicero 
may  have  stood  in  the  midst  of  the  marsh, 
instead  of  hard  by  it,  as  at  i)resent.  It  is 
imijossible  to  say  of  what  extent  the  lake 
was  of  old  ;  before  the  hydraulic  operations 
commenced  in  1828  for  its  "  bonitication," 
as  the  Italians  term  it,  it  had  a  superficial 
extent  of  33  square  miles,  but  it  is  now 
reduced  by  the  means  taken,  and  still 
taking,  for  filling  it  up  ;  this  is  done  by 
letting  in  the  waters  of  the  Ombrone, 
which  l)ring  down  abundant  dejiosits  from 
the  interior.  It  would  seem,  from  the 
forcible  po.ssession  Clodius  took  of  the 
island  in  its  waters,  as  related  by  Cicero 
(loc.  cit. ),  that  this  spot  was  much  more 
desirable  as  a  habitation  in  ancient  times 
than  at  present,  when  it  is  "the  very 
centre  of  the  infection  of  the  Tuscan  Ma- 
renima."  Repetti  gives  good  reasons  for 
regariling  this  lake  or  swamp  as  originally 
the  bed  of  the  sea.  An  interesting  account 
will  be  found  in  the  .same  writer  (II.  r. 
(Tro.sseto)  of  the  attemjits  made  at  various 
lieriods  and  l>y  difterent  means  to  reduce 
tlie  extent  of  stagnant  water,  and  lessen 
the  unhealthine     of  this  district. 


CHAP.  xLvii.]      LACUS    PRELIUS-THE    NECROPOLIS.  231 

site  within  the  lueinoiv  of  luuii.  'J'he  liurdness  of  the  rock  and 
the  dense  woods  whicli  for  ages  have  eovered  the  hill,  in  great 
measure  accounted  for  this.  It  appeared  to  uie  i)robable  that 
here,  as  on  other  sites  of  similar  character,  the  tomhs  were  of 
masonry,  heaped  over  with  earth.  Such  is  the  character  of  one 
on  the  ascent  to  the  city  from  the  south,  not  far  from  the  walls. 
It  is  a  chamber  only  seven  feet  by  live,  lined  with  small  blocks 
of  unhewn  masonry  like  the  Tirynthian  in  miniature,  and  covered 
with  large  slabs,  iibout  eighteen  inches  thick.  The  chamber  was 
originally  of  gi'eater  depth,  but  is  now  so  choked  with  earth  that 
a  man  cannot  stand  upright  in  it.  It  can  be  entered  only  by  a 
hole  in  the  roof,  where  one  of  the  cover-slabs  has  been  removed  ; 
for  the  original  doorway,  which  opened  in  the  slope  of  the  hill, 
and  which  is  covered  with  a  horizontal  lintel,  is  now  blocked  up. 
As  it  is  therefore  a  mere  pit,  without  any  indications  above  the 
surface,  it  is  not  easy  to  find.  From  the  peculiarity  of  the 
masonry,  and  from  the  general  analogy  this  tomb  bears  to  those 
of  Saturnia,  I  do  not  hesitate  to  pronounce  it  of  high  antiquity. 
This  was  the  only  sepulchre  I  could  perceive,  or  that  I  could  then 
hear  of,  in  the  vicinity  of  Ruselhe.^ 

Since  the  publication  of  the  former  edition  of  this  work,  this 
necropolis  has  been  well  explored.  Francois,  the  most  enter- 
prising and  successful  excavator  of  Etruscan  cemeteries  in  our 
day,  was  the  first  who  turned  his  attention  to  that  of  liuselhe. 
He  discovered  numerous  tombs  in  the  neighbouring  hills, 
especially  m  those  to  the  north  towards  Monte  Pescali  and  Batig- 
nano,  and  many  also  in  the  jilain  three  or  fom-  miles  to  the  south 
of  Euselhe.  These  latter  he  describes  as  small  chambers,  about 
ten  feet  long  by  eight  wide,  and  eight  high,  constructed  of 
masonry,  exactly  like  those  of  Cuma.  All  had  been  rilled  of  old, 
and,  like  that  described  by  me  above,  had  been  entered  through 
the  roof,  by  the  removal  of  one  of  the  cover-stones.  The  door- 
ways were  of  the  usual  Egyptian  form,  but  were  generally  found 
closed,  or  walled-up.  Over  some  of  these  sepulchres  remains  of 
tumuli  could  be  traced.  Nothing  of  value  was  found  within  them, 
but  from  the  fragments  of  pottery  and   bronze,  he  learned  that 

"  This  toiiil>  has  u  great  lesemlilance  in  d  scq.  ;  Abeken,  Mittelitalieu,  i».  240.  taf. 

construction,    if  not   in   form,   to  tlie  Se-  IV.  6a — d. 

polture  di  Giganti  of  Sardinia,  wliich  arc  Cluver  (II.    p.    514)   f^peaks  of   sundry 

long,  passage-like  sepulchres  ()f  rude  stones,  niart)les,     columns,     bronze     figures,    and 

and  covered  in  with  unhewn  slabs.      De  la  ancient  coins  hiiving  been  dug  up   before 

Marmora,   Voyage   en    Sardaigjie,    jd.   IV.  liis  time. 
pp.  21-35;    and  Bull.  Inst.  1833,  p.  125 


232  EUSELLiE.  [chai-.  xlvii. 

these  tomhs  were  of  tlie  latter  days  of  the  national  independence. 
In  the  dense  tliiokets  in  the  plain,  as  well  as  on  the  hill-slopes, 
he  obseiTed  traces  of  large  tumuli,  imperceptible  to  the  ordinary 
observer,  but  easily  recognised  by  a  practised  eye.  Where  the 
hills  were  of  tufo,  the  tombs  were  hollowed  in  it,  and  on  rocky 
ground  the}'  were  constructed  of  rude  masonry,  covered  with 
mounds  of  earth.  Besides  vases  with  black  figures,  he  found 
bronzes,  inferior  in  beauty  to  none  j'ielded  b}'  other  cemeteries  of 
northern  Etruria,  of  skilful  chiselling,  and  having  a  patina  of  a 
reddish  brown  tone,  probabl}' imparted  by  the  character  of  the  soil 
in  which  they  had  lain  for  ages.'-'  The  illustrations  opposite  repre- 
sent a  beautiful,  though  archaic,  figure  of  an  Etruscan  divinity 
found  at  liuselhe  in  1875,  and  now  in  the  possession  of  Professor 
S.  S.  Lewis  of  Corpus  Christi  College,  Cambridge,  Avho  has 
kindly  allowed  me  to  have  woodcuts  made  from  photographs  of 
the  original.  The  figure  measures  eight  and  a  half  inches  in 
height,  and  from  its  attributes  is  recognised  as  the  goddess  Elpis 
or  Spes.  These  attributes — to  quote  the  Professor's  own  words 
• — ''are  the  attitude  of  the  right  hand,  which  is  stretched  out  and 
holds  a  lotus-flower  ;  the  steady  energetic  forward  motion  indi- 
cated by  the  stride  of  the  legs  ;  and  the  pose  of  the  left-hand, 
which  slightly  lifts  the  long  robe  [Xltcov  7Toh'ipr]s),  that  hardl}' 
embarrasses  the  lissome  figure.  The  severe,  almost  stern,  expres- 
sion of  the  countenance  and  whole  figure  well  corresponds  with 
the  fact  that  si^es  and  sjkto  (as  eATrtj  and  eATrt^w  also)  are  used 
for  the  anticipation  of  evil  as  well  as  of  good."  Mr.  Lewis  assigns 
to  this  figure  a  date  somewhat  earlier  than  the  finest  jieriod  of 
Greek  art,  or  from  500  to  450  b.c. 

The  walls  of  Paisellaj,  from  their  stupendous  massiveness,  and 
,the  rude  shapelessness  of  the  blocks,  are  indisputably  of  very 
earl}^  date,  and  may  rank  among  the  most  ancient  structures 
extant  in  Italv.  While  those  of  Cosa  and  Saturnia,  in  the  neatly 
joined  polygonal  st3'le,  have  been  referred  to  later,  even  to  lloman, 
times,  no  one  has  ever  ventured  to  call  in  question  the  venerable 
antiquity  of  Ptuselhe  ;  which  therefore  needs  no  confirmation 
from  historical  sources.  The  limited  extent  of  the  cit}',  only  two 
miles  in  circumference,  does  not  seem  to  entitle  it  to  rank  among 
the  Twelve  chief  cities  of  Etruria.  Yet  this  honour  is  generall}' 
accorded  to  it;  principally'  on  the  ground  of  a  passage  in  Dionysius, 
where  it  is  cited  in  connection  with  Clusium,  Arretium,  Volaterrre, 

^  Bull.  Inst.  18.^1,  p.   3,  4.     Noel  des       found  in  the  lake  of  Monte  Falterona  liave 
Vergei-s,  Etruiie,  I.  p.  51),    All  the  Lronzes       the  same  peculiar  hrowniah jxdiita. 


CHAP.  xr,vii.]         BEONZES— HISTORICAL    NOTICES. 


233 


and  Vetuloiiiii,  nil  cities  of  the  Confederation,  as  taking  part  in 
the  war  against  Tanjuinius  IViscus,  independently  of  the  rest  of 


liiioxzE  DiviNrrv,   from  kusell.k. 

Etruria ;  which  seems  to  imply  that  it  was  at  that  time  a  city  of 
first-rate  impoiiance.^  This  is  the  earliest  mention  made  of 
Rnsellffi  in  hist(n-y.  We  next  hear  of  it  in  the  year  453  of  Rome, 
in  the  dictatorship  of  j\[.  Valerius  ]\Iaxinnis,  who  marched  his 

'  Dion.  II;il.   III.   c.  SI.     Yet  Livy  (X.        and  Arrctiuiu,   as  itrbes,  Etruria  capita — 
7)  speaks  of  it  as  a  town,  oppkbim,  and,       thus  placing  Rusellte  in  an  inferior  category, 
in  tlie  next  sentence,  of  Volsinii,  Perusia, 


234  EUSELL^T:.  [chap,  xlvii, 

army  into  the  tenitoiy  of  EuselLe,  and  there  "  broke  the  might 
of  the  Etruscans,"  and  forced  them  to  sue  for  peace.-  And  again 
in  the  year  460,  the  consul,  Postumius  MegeUus,  entered  the 
territory  of  Paiselhr,  and  not  only  laid  it  Avaste,  hut  attacked 
and  stormed  the  city  itself,  capturing  more  tlian  2000  men,  and 
slaying  almost  as  many  around  the  walls.''  When  Ave  next  find 
it  mentioned  in  history,  it  is  among  the  cities  of  Etruria,  which 
furnished  supplies  to  Scipio  in  the  Second  Punic  "War.  It  sent 
him  its  quota  in  corn,  and  fir  for  ship-building.^  It  is  after- 
wards mentioned  among  the  Poman  colonies  in  Etruria.'  It 
contmued  to  exist  after  the  fall  of  the  AVestern  Empire,  and  for 
ages  was  a  bishop's  see,  till  in  1138,  its  population  had  sunk  so 
low,  and  the  site  was  so  infested  by  robbers  and  outlaws,  that 
its  see  and  inhabitants  were  transferred  to  Grosseto,  its  modern 
representative.'^  Since  that  time  Pusellaj  has  remained  as  it  is 
now  seen — a  wilderness  of  rocks  and  thickets — the  haunt  of  the 
fox  and  wild  boar,  of  the  serpent  and  lizard — visited  by  none  but 
tlie  herdsman  or  shepherd,  who  lies  the  Uve-long  day  stretched 
in  vacancy  on  the  sward,  or  turnhig  a  wondering  gaze  on  the 
stupendous  ruins  around  him,  of  whose  origin  and  history  he 
cannot  form  a  conception. 

-  Liv.  X.  4,  5.  coin  at  the  back  of  his  head.     Maj'  they 

^  Liv.  X.  37.     Signer  Passerini,  au  en-  not  have  been  the  victims  of  this  llomaii 

gineer,  resident  at  Grosseto,  informs  me  victory  .' 

that  in  excavations  which  he  made  at  the  ■•  Liv.  XXVIII,  45. 

foot  of  Sloscona,  about  10  years  ago,  he  ^  Plin.  III.  8.     Ptol.  p.  72,  ed.  Bert. 

found   numerous   skeletons  rudely  buried  ^  Repetti,  II.  pp.  52G,  S22. 

and  lying  side  by  side,  each  with  a  bronze 


CHAPTER    XI.VllI. 

TELAMONE.  -TELA M  OX. 

—  ilives  oputn  Priaiiii  (linn  rusiia  luaueljaiit  ; 
Nunc  tantvim  sinus,  ct  statici  nialefida  carinis.  —  Viur.iL. 

Sorxii  of  Grosseto,  the  next  place  of  Etruscan  interest  is. 
Telainone,  or  Talamone,  eighteen  miles  distant.  For  the  first 
lialf  of  the  way  the  railroad  traverses  a  "wide  plain,  crossing  the 
Oiuhrone,  the  Umbro  of  anti(piity — iioii  ifinohile  Jiiuncn — by  a 
bridge.  In  Pliny's  time  this  stream  was  navigable  ;  ^  but  for 
wliat  distance  Ave  know  not.  l*assing  Alberese  and  its  quarries,'^ 
the  road  enters  a  wooded  valley,  Avith  a  range  of  hills  on  the  right 
renowned  as  the  haunt  of  the  Avild  boar  aiul  roebuck — 

Ubi  cerva  silvicultrix,  ubi  aper  nemorivag'us. 

Hither  accordingl}'  the  cacciatori  of  Rome  and  Florence  resort  in 
the  season,  taking  up  their  quarters  at  Collecchio,  a  way-side  iniu 
twelve  miles  from  Grosseto.  Not  far  from  Collecchio  is  a  ruined 
tower,  called  Torre  della  Bella  Marsilia  ;  and  tradition  asserts 
that  a  fair  daughter  of  the  Marsilj  family  was  in  bygone  ages 
seized  here  by  Barbary  corsairs,  and  carried  to  Constantinople, 
where  her  beauty  raised  her  to  share  the  throne  of  the  Sultan. ' 
Where  this  range  of  hills  sinks  to  the  sea,  a  castle  on  a  small 
headland,  a  few  houses  at  its  foot,  and  a  vessel  or  two  off  the 
shore,  mark  the  i)ort  of  Telamone. 

'  Plin,     III.     8.  —  Umljro,     uavii;i(iiuiii  L'nilnia. 

capax,  et  ab  eo  tractus  Umln-iic.      llutilius  -  The    luiuie   is  evidently  derived   fnmi 

(I.   337-340)  speaks  of   the   snug  port  at  the  limestone — alhercsc — whieli  is  quarried 

its  mouth.    Chiver  (II.  p.  474)  thinks  from  here. 

riiny's  mention  of  it,  that  it  gave  its  name  •*  llepetti,  I.  p.  7fi5.      Excavations  wcn^ 

to    the    Umbrians  ;    but   Jliiller    (Etrusk.  made  in  this  neighbourhood  in  1861,  but 

einl.  2,  12)  on  the  contrary,  considers  it  to  though  numerous  tombs  were  opened,  they 

have  received  its  name  from  tliat  ancient  yielded  few  objects   of   value   or  interest, 

people;  and   interprets  Pliny  as  meaning  Hull.  Soc.  Cohunb.  1861,  p.  16. 
tliat   a   district   on   the    river  was    called 


236  TELAMOXE.  [chap,  xlviii. 

Telamone  lies  nearl}'  two  miles  off  the  railroad,  and  to  reach  it 
you  have  to  skirt  the  sandy  shores  of  the  little  bay,  sprinkled 
^Yith  aloes,  and  fragments  of  Eoman  ruin.  The  place  is  scpialid 
beyond  description,  almost  in  utter  ruin,  desolated  in  summer  b}' 
malaria,  and  at  no  time  containing  more  than  some  hundred  and 
fifty  befevered  aoiiis—fchhricitaitti,  as  the  Italians  say — on  whose 
heads  Heaven  has  rained 

"  The  blistering  drops  of  the  Maremma's  dew. " 

Inn  there  is  none  ;  and  no  traveller,  who  seeks  more  than  mere 
shelter  and  a  shake-down,  should  think  of  passing  the  night  here, 
but  should  go  forward  to  Orbetello,  twelve  miles  to  the  south. 
Indeed,  I  know  not  Avhy  the  antiquarian  traveller  should  halt  at 
Telamone,  for  the  castle  is  only  of  the  middle  ages,  and  nothing 
within  it  is  of  higher  antiquit}' ;  though  the  shores  of  its  bay, 
like  those  of  Baise,  are  covered  with  wrecks  of  lloman  villas.^ 
No  vestiges  of  Etruscan  times  could  I  perceive  or  hear  of  at 
Telamone,  or  in  its  immediate  neighbourhood  ;  A'et  the  place  can 
lay  claim  to  that  remote  antiquity.  There  are  lioman  remains 
iilso  on  the  tower-crested  headland  of  Telamonaccio,  which  forms 
the  eastern  horn  of  the  port,  and  which  disputes  with  Telamone 
the  honour  of  being  the  site  of  the  Etruscan  town.^ 

Telamone  has  retained  its  ancient  name,  which  is  said  to  be 
•derived  from  Telamon,  the  Argonaut,  who  touched  here  on  his 
return  from  the  celebrated  expedition  to  Colchis,  prior  to  the 
Trojan  war,  some  thii-teen  centuries  before  Christ.^  But  such  an 
origin  is  clearly  fabulous.  There  is  no  doubt,  however,  of  the 
high  antiquity  of  the  site  ;  but  whether  Telamon  was  founded  b}' 
the  Tyrrhene-Pelasgi,  who  built  many  towns  on  this  coast,"  or 
was  simply  of  Etruscan  origin,*^  we  have  no  means  of  determining. 

■•  Tlierc  are  said  to  Ite  some  lloman  vaults  iiaiac  from  its  form  of  a  ^'irdle — TeAauwj'. 

on  the  lieiglits  above  Telainoue,  but  I  sought  Tehiiiiou  is  not  the  only  Argonaut  mentioned 

theiu  in  vain.  in  connection  witli  Etruria.     Jason  also  is 

•''  Francois  (Bull.   Inst.   IS.'jl,  p.  5)  is  of  said  to  have  landed  in  Elba,  whence  Portt 

•opinion  that  the  jiresent  village  stands  on  Ferrajo  received  its  ancient  name  of  Argous 

the  ruins  of  an   Etruscan  fortress,  which  Tortus  (Strabo,    Y.   p.    224  ;  Diodor.    loo. 

I)rotected  the  mouth  of  the  port,  and  that  cit. )  ;    and   to   have    contended    with   the 

on   the   opposite    height  of   Telamonaccio,  Tyrrhenes  in  a  naval  combat.     Possis  of 

stood  another  similar  fortress,  whose  founda-  ^Magnesia  ap.  Athen.  VII.  c.  47. 
tions,  he  says,  are  still  visible.  '  Cluver  (II.  ji.  477)  ascribes  its  origia 

^  Diod.  Sic.  IV.  p.  259,  ed.  Rhod.  Dio-  to  the  Pelasgi  ;  so  also  Cramer,  I.  p.  192. 
ilorus  calls  it  800  .stadia  (100  miles)  from  "  Mela  (II.   4)  in   mentioning  it  among 

Home,  which  is  rather  less  than  the  dis-  tlie  coast-towns  of  Etruria,  says  they  were 

tance  liy  the  road.     Lanzi  (II.  p.  83)  sug-  all   Etruscans    both   in   site   and   name — 

£ests  that  this  port  may  have  received  its  Etrusca  et  loca  et  nomina  ;  but  this  must 


CHAi'.  xLviii.]     MYTHICAL    AXI)    UISTOrJCAL    NOTICES.  2;i7 

There  is  no  liistorical  iiieiitiou  of  Telainon  in  tlie  times  of 
Etruscan  indejiendence.  AVe  hear  of  it  first  in  the  year  529, 
when  the  Iionians  defeated,  in  th.is  neighbourhood,  an  army  of 
Cisalpine  Gauls,  -who  had  made  an  irruption  into  I^truria.'-* 

It  was  at  the  port  of  Telamon  that  Marius  landed  on  his  return 
from  Africa  (87  n.c.),  to  retrieve  his  ruined  fortunes.^  This  is 
the  last  historical  notice  we  have  of  Telamon  in  ancient  times  ; 
and  except  that  it  is  mentioned  in  the  catalogues  of  the  geo- 
graphers and  in  the  Itineraries, ~  we  have  no  further  record  of 
its  existence  till  the  beginning  of  the  fourteenth  century.^ 

Thougli  we  do  not  learn  from  ancient  Avriters  that  Telamon 
was  used  as  a  port  in  Etruscan  times,  it  is  impossible  to  believe 
that  the  advantages  of  a  harbour,  sheltered  from  ever}'-  Avind  save 
the  south,  and  protected  even  in  that  quarter  b}'  the  natural 
breakwater  of  Monte  Argentaro  and  its  double  isthmus,  could 
have  been  overlooked  or  neglected  b}'  the  most  maritime  nation 
of  their  time,  the  "sea-kings"  of  Italy.  "^  The  recent  discovery 
of  an  Etruscan  city  of  great  si/e  in  the  neighbourhood,  sufficiently 
establishes  the  fact,'  which  is  further  confirmed  bj'  the  evidence 
of  its  coins, ^ 


lie  taken  with  reservation,  as  in  the  same 
list  are  Pisip,  Pyrgi,  and  Castrum  Novum, 
as  manifestly  Greek  and  Roman  respectively 
in  name,  as  they  are  known  to  liave  been 
in  origin.     Cf.  Stepli.  Byzant.  v.  TeXafawv. 

"  Polybius  (II.  27)  places  the  site  of  this 
battle  near  Telainon,  and  somewhat  to  the 
north  ;  Frontinus  (Strateg.  I.  2,  7)  says  it 
was  at  a  place  called  Colonia,  which  is 
supposed,  but  on  no  valid  grounds,  to  be 
Colonna  di  Duriano,  between  (xrosseto  and 
Follonica  (Cramer,  Anc.  Italy,  I.  p,  liU). 
Frontinus  says  that  when  JJmilius,  tlie 
Roman  Consul,  led  his  army  into  the  plain, 
he  observed  a  multitude  of  birds  rising 
from  a  distant  wood,  and  suspecting  an 
ambush,  he  sent  out  scouts,  who  brought 
him  word  that  10,000  Grauls  were  concealed 
in  the  forest. 

'  Plutarch.  ^^larius. 

"  Plin.  III.  S.  Ptolemy  (p.  68)  sjieaks 
of  its  "promontory." 

'  Repetti,  V.  p.  498. 

*  Diodorus  (IV.  j).  259)  indeed  calls  it  a 
l)ort  in  the  time  of  the  Argonauts,  but 
beside  that  such  a  record  of  fabulous  times 
cannot  be  received  as  authentic,  the  word 
he  uses  may  signify  merely  a  natural  haven, 
without  the  addition  of  a  town. 


^  See  Chapter  LI.  on  Yetulonia.  Mailer, 
when  he  hesitated  whether  to  regard 
Telamon  as  the  port  of  Ruselhe,  Saturnia, 
or  Vulci  (Etrusk.  I.  p.  296,  cf.  333),  was 
not  aware  of  the  existence  of  a  fii-st-rate 
Etrascan  city,  only  a  few  miles  inland,  to 
which  it  must  undouljtedly  have  served  as 
a  port.  Though  Stephanus  calls  Telamon 
a  "city,"  it  can  have  been  but  a  small 
town,  or  a  fortified  landing-place,  such  as 
Graviscie,  Pyrgi,  and  Alsium,  appear  to 
have  been. 

''  The  coins  attributed  to  Telamon  are  in 
general  just  like  the  as  and  scmi>s  of  early 
Rome,  having  the  bearded  Janus-head  on 
the  obvei-se,  and  the  prow  on  the  reverse, 
but  \vith  the  addition  of  "  Tla"  in  Etruscan 
characters.  Sometimes,  in  place  of  the 
Janus,  there  is  the  head  of  Jove,  or  that 
of  a  helmed  warrior,  whom  Lanzi  takes  for 
TeLimon,  as  it  was  customary  to  represent 
heroes  or  heroines  on  coins.  And  he  inter- 
prets the  prow  also  as  referring  to  the 
Argonauts.  One  coin,  a  decussis,  has  the 
legend  of  "TLATE,"in  Etruscan  characters, 
which  Lanzi  proposes  to  blend  in  such  a  way 
as  to  read  "Tlamxk,"  or  Telamon  ;  but 
Miiller  suggests  that  these  coins  may  belong 
to  the  fadus  Lntinum — Tlate  being  put 


-23S  TELAMONE.  [chap,  xi.vni. 

The  bay  is  now  so  cluikt'd  witli  saml  and  sea- weed,  that  even 
small  coasting  craft,  Avlien  laden,  have  much  ado  to  enter;'  and 
in  smnmer  the  stagnant  pools  ahnig  the  shore  send  forth  intoler- 
able effluvia,  generating  deadly  fevers,  and  poisonmg  the  atmo- 
sphere for  miles  around.  AVhat  little  commerce  is  now  carried 
on,  consists  in  the  shipment  of  ciH-n,  timber,  and  charcoal. 

Tlie  Barone  VivarelH  of  Telamone  had  a  clioice  collection  of 
Etruscan  antiquities,  which  lias  very  recently  been  secured  by 
the  (xovernment  for  the  Etruscan  Museum  at  Florence. 

The  road  to  Orbetello  runs  along  the  swampy  shore,  with  low 
bare  heights  inland,  once  crowned  by  one  of  the  proudest  cities 
of  Ktruria,  whose  site  had  been  forgotten  for  ages  ;  and  with  the 
lofty  headland  of  Monte  Argentaro  seaward,  and  the  wooded 
peaks  of  the  Giglio — If/ilii  .s/7ro.sa  aictimiiia^ — by  its  side  ;  often 
concealed  by  the  woods  of  pine,  which  stretch  for  miles  in  a 
dense  black  line  along  this  coast.  The  river  Osa,  the  Ossa  of 
anti(iuity,'^  is  next  crossed,  where  large  masses  in  the  stream 
proclaim  the  wreck  of  the  Roman  bridge,  b}'  which  the  \\n 
Aurelia  was  carried  over  it.  Ynnv  or  five  miles  beyond,  is  the 
Albegna,  the  ancient  Albinia,^  a  murli  wider  river,  with  a  little 
fort  on  its  left  bank,  marking  the  frontier  of  the  Presidj,  a  small 
district  on  this  coast,  which  belonged  first  to  Spain,  then  to 
Naples,  and  was  annexed  to  Tuscany  at  the  Congi'ess  of  Vienna. 
^Vlien  I  first  visited  this  coast,  all  these  rivers  had  to  be  crossed 
by  feiTy -boats.  There  was  a  saying — "When  you  meet  with  a 
bridge,  pay  it  more  respect  than  you  would  to  a  count  " — 

Quando  vedi  im  poute. 

Fa  gli  pin  onor  che  non  ad  iiii  conte — 

and  with  good  reason,  for  counts  in   Italy  are   plentiful  as  black- 
berries— you  meet  them  at  every  turn  ;  l)ut  bridges  ! — they  are 

for  Tlatium.     A  sextans  with  the  head  <>t'  evidently  lieen  used  for  raooring  vessels, 

a  young  Hercides,  and  a  trident  between  and  also  a  large  ring  of  metal,  half  buried 

two  dolphins,   with  the  legend  "Tel,"  is  in  the  soil,  that  must  have  served  the  s;inie 

referred  by  Sestini  to  Telamon.     Lanzi,  II.  purpose.  Bull.  Inst. ,1851,  p.  5.  He  imagines 

pp.  28,  84,  tav.  11.    4-6  ;  Miillei-,  Etrn.sk.  that  the  large  Etniscan  city,  5  or  6  miles 

I.  p.  333  ;  Sestini,  Lett.   Niimis.  III.  pp.  inland,  mentioned  in  the  text,  was  that  of 

11-13  ;    Miounet,    Suppl.    I.    pp.    203-4.  Telamone,  Init  of  this  we  will  treat   in  a 

Cramer,  Anc.  Italy,  I.  p.  192.     Millingen  subsciiuent  chapter. 

(Numis.    Anc.   Italic,    p.    173)    doubts   if  "^  Hutilius,  I.  325.     C;esar,  Bell.  Civ.  I. 

these  coins  should  be  referred  to  Telamon.  34  ;  ^lela,   II.    7.     Called  also  .Sgiliuni  ; 

^  Frangois  maintains  that  the  port  origi-  and  by  the  Greeks,  Slgilon.  Plin.  III.  1"-'. 
nally  stretched  three   miles  inlan<l,  for  he  ^  Ptolem.  Geog.  y.  68. 

found  in  the  dense  wood  at  that  disteni'c  '  Called    Albinia    by   the    Peutingerian 

from  the  sea,  remains  of  columns  that  had  Table,  Alinina  by  the  Maritime  Itinenirj'. 


CHAi'.  xLvixi.]     THE    POET— THE    OSA    AND    AL13EGXA.  '.>;39 

(lesei'ving  (^f  all  leverence,  albeit  patronised  b}'  neither  saint  nor 
soveroif^n.  'I'ln-ee  rivers  I  crossed  in  a  morning's  drive  along 
one  of  the  high  roads  in  Tuscany,  and  all  under  the  protection 
of  St.  Christopher,  the  first  Christian  ferryman  !  The  vast  im- 
provement in  the  means  of  connnunication  already  made  by  the 
present  government  must  astonish  all  who  have  known  Italy  in 
lier  former  disjointed  condition. 

For  live  or  six  miles  after  the  Albegna,  the  road  traverses  jiine- 
Avoods,  and  then  branches  off  to  Orbetello,  Avhich  lies  at  the 
extremity  of  a  long  tongue  of  sand,  stretching  into  its  wide 
lagoon,  and  is  over-shadowed  by  the  double-peaked  mountain- 
mass  of  Argentaro  ;  as  described  by  Rutilius — 

Tcnditur  in  medias  mons  Argentarius  undas, 
Ancipitique  jugo  cserula  rura  premit. 


chaptp:r  xlix. 

OEBETELLO. 

Cyclopum  mcenia  conspicio. — Virgil. 

Orbetello  presents  a  threatening  front  to  tlie  stranger.  A 
strong  line  of  fortifications  crosses  the  sandy  isthmus  by  which 
he  approaches  it;  prmcipally  the  work  of  the  Spaniards,  who  pos- 
sessed the  town  for  a  hundred  and  fifty  years — from  1557  to  1707. 
On  ever}'  other  side  it  is  fenced  in  by  a  stout  sea-walL  But  its 
chief  strength  Hes  in  its  position  in  the  midst  of  the  wide  lagoon, 
protected  from  all  attacks  by  sea  by  the  two  necks  of  sand  which 
unite  Monte  Argentaro  to  the  mainland;  and  to  be  otherwise 
approached  only  by  the  narrow  tongue,  on  whose  tip  it  stands — 
a  position  singularly  like  that  of  Mexico.^ 

This  Stagno,  or  lagoon,  the  "  sea  marsh  "  of  Strabo,-  is  a  vast 
expanse  of  stagnant  salt-water,  so  shallow  that  it  may  be  forded 
in  parts,  yet  never  dried  up  by  the  hottest  summer ;  the  curse 
of  the  country  around,  for  the  foul  and  pestilent  vapours,  and 
the  swanns  of  musquitoes  and  other  insects  it  generates  at  that 
season,  yet  compensating  the  inhabitants  with  an  abundance  of 
fish.  The  fishery  is  generally  carried  on  at  night,  and  in  the 
way  often  j^ractised  in  Italv  and  Sicil}" — by  harpooning  the  fish 
which  are  attracted  by  a  light  in  the  prow  of  the  boat.  It  is  a 
curious  sight  on  calm  nights  to  see  hundreds  of  these  little  skiffs 
or  canoes  wandering  about  with  their  lights,  and  making  an  ever 
moving  illumination  on  the  surface  of  the  lake. 

Orbetello  has  fm'ther  interest  for  the  antiquary.  The  founda- 
tions of  the  sea-wall  which  surround  it  on  three  sides,  are  of  vast 
polygonal  blocks,  just  such  as  are  seen  on  many  ancient  sites 
of  Central  Ital}- — Norba,  Segni,  Palestrina,  to  wit — and  such  as 

'  I  have  here  describefl   its  original  po-       construction. 
sition.     The  causeway  which  now  connects  '  Strabo,  Y.  p.  225 — XiuvodiXaTra. 

it  ■with  Jlontc  Argentaro,  is   of   modem 


CHAP.  xLix.]        TlIK    T.AGOOX.— rKLASGiC    AVALLS.  241 

compose  tlie  walls  of  the  neighbouring  Cosa.  That  these  lilocks 
are  of  ancient  shaping  no  one  acquainted  with  the  so-called 
Pelasgic  remains  of  Italy  can  for  a  moment  doubt;  and  that 
they  are  also  in  great  measure  of  ancient  arrangement,  is  erpiall}' 
manifest ;  hut  that  they  have  been  in  some  parts  rebuilt, 
especially  in  the  u})per  ccnu-ses,  is  also  obvious  from  the  wide 
interstices  between  them,  here  and  there,  now  stopi^ed  with 
mortar  and  bricks.  The  masonry  tells  its  tale  as  clearly  as 
stones  can  speak — that  the  ancient  fortifications,  having  fallen 
into  decay,  were  reljuilt  with  the  old  materials,  but  by  much 
less  skilful  hands,  the  defects  in  the  reconstruction  being  stopped 
up  with  mortar  and  rubble — that  the  blocks,  even  where  they 
retain  their  original  positions,  have  suffered  so  much  from  the 
action  of  the  elements,  especially  from  the  salt  waves  of  the  lake, 
which  often  violently  lash  the  walls,  as  to  have  lost  much  of  that 
smoothness  of  surface,  and  that  close,  neat  fitting  of  joints,  which 
characterise  this  sort  of  masonry ;  and  that  the  hollows  and 
interstices  thus  formed  have  been  in  many  parts  plastered  over 
with  mortar.-'  Ancient  masonry  of  this  description  never  had, 
and  never  needed  cement;  holding  together  by  the  enormous 
weight  of  its  masses. 

It  seems  highly  probable  from  the  character  of  this  masonry,  and 
the  position  of  the  town  on  the  level  of  the  shore,  that  Orbetello, 
like  Pisa,  Pyrgi,  and  Alsium,  was  originally  founded  b^-the  Pelasgi; 
to  whom  I  would  attribute  the  construction  of  these  walls.  But 
that  it  was  also  occupied  b}-  the  Etruscans  is  abundantly  proved 
by  the  tombs  of  that  people,  which  have  been  discovered  in  the 
close  vicinity  of  the  city,  on  the  isthmus  of  sand  which  connects 
it  Avith  the  mainland.  Most  of  them  have  been  found  in  the 
grounds  of  Signor  Paffael  de  AYitt,  an  inhabitant  of  the  town, 
who  has  made  a  collection  of  their  contents.^  No  tombs  now 
remain  open  ;  in  truth,  the  soil  is  so  loose  that  they  are  found 

^  Hoare  (Class.  Tour,   I.  p.  CI)  came  to  material  ;  and  again  the  masonry  of  Cosa 

the  conclusion  that  the  blocks  in  these  for-  is  wholly  of  limestone  ;  that  of  Orbetello  is 

tilications  must  have  been  brought,  either  principally  of  crag,  or  marine  conglomerate, 

from  some  Roman  road,  or  from  the  neigh-  as  though  it  had  been  quarried  near  the 

bouring  ruins  of  Co.sa.     ]>ut  tliey  are   of  sliore. 

larger  size,  and  of  much  greater  depth  than  ^  in  Signor  De  Witt's  garden   there   is 

Roman    paving-stones  ;    nor   are   they    of  the   capital   of   a   column,  taken  from  an 

basalt,  the  usual  material  in  roads.     Still  Etruscan  tond),    which   resembles  that    in 

less  likely  is  it  that  they  have  been  l)rought  Camiumari's  Garden  at  Toscauella  (Vol.  I. 

from  Cosii,  for  the  walls  of  that  city  on  this  p.  431).  in  having  human  heads  between 

side,  and  towards  the  sea  generally,  arc  too  the  volutes, 
perfect  to  have  suinilied  so  great  a  mass  of 

VOL.    II.  - 


242  ORBETELLO.  [chap.  xlix. 

with  their  roofs  faUeii  in,  and  their  contents  buried  in  the  earth. 
Some  of  the  sepulclires  are  hollowed  in  the  sandstone  rock,  and 
contain  two  or  three  chambers,  which  show  traces  of  architectural 
features  akin  to  tlie  Eg3-ptian.  Ihit  in  most  instances,  owing  to 
the  fragility  of  the  rock,  the  roof  has  fallen  in,  and  to  this  cir- 
cumstance is  ascribed  the  abundance  of  jewellery  found  in  these 
tombs,  which  has  thus  escaped  the  researches  of  the  ritlers  of  former 
ages.  The  dead  were  sometimes  laid  uncoffined  on  a  slab  of  rock, 
and  covered  with  tiles,  or  in  little  tombs  built  up  of  stones, 
and  covered  with  slabs.  ]>ut  more  generally  they  were  interred 
in  sarcophagi  of  nenfro,  or  in  wooden  coffins,  which  have  long 
since  decayed,  but  have  left  their  mark  in  the  nails  which  fastened 
them  together.  AVhen  the  corpse  was  a  male  these  nails  were  of 
ii'on  ;  when  a  female,  they  were  of  bronze,  with  their  heads  gilt. 
At  the  angles  of  the  coffins  there  seem  to  have  been  ornaments 
of  variegated  glass.  The  articles  brought  to  light  are  black  or 
red  ware,  painted  vases  but  seldom,  and  then  of  inferior  art, 
although  in  a  few  instances  some  with  red  figures  in  the  finest 
style  have  been  discovered ;  numerous  objects  in  bronze — armour 
and  weapons,  tripods  and  candelabra,  vases,  figured  mirrors  \AWi 
most  interesting  designs,  and  sundry  other  articles  pertaining  to 
the  toilet — together  with  gold  ornaments  of  great  beaut)\  Among 
these  are  specified  garlands  of  oak,  laurel,  or  myrtle-leaves,  and 
a  pair  of  earrings  in  the  form  of  bunches  of  grapes,  so  often  de- 
picted in  the  painted  tombs.  In  one  instance  the  skeleton  of  a 
woman  was  found  with  the  skull  encircled  with  a  wreath  of  the 
finest  gold,  rejiresenting  myrtle-leaves  elaborateh'  wrought ;  a 
pair  of  earrings  lay  in  their  place  by  the  side  of  the  head,  and  a 
necklace  of  gold  on  the  bosom,  Avliich  seems  to  have  been  attached 
to  a  robe  of  exquisite  beaut}',  decorated  with  human  heads,  fish, 
birds,  butterflies,  and  ivy  leaves,  all  of  gold.^  In  many  instances 
the  remains  of  females  were  found  with  only  one  earring — a 
singular  fact,  which  has  been  noticed  also  in  the  tombs  of  Chiusi 
and  Populonia,  as  well  as  at  Cumai.  In  another  tomb  was  found 
a  sistnun  with  a  little  cow  at  the  top,  representing  Isis,  in  whose 
worship  these  instruments  were  used.*^  Tombs  have  recently 
been  found  in  Orbetello  itself,  that  is,  within  the  circuit  of  the 
ancient  walls. 

*  For  notices  of  excavations  on  tliis  site  1867,  p.  145. 
see  the  I'.ulletini  of  the  Archieological  In-  *  Micali,  Mon.  Ined.  p.  109,  tav.  XVII. 

stitute,  182y,  p.  7  ;  1830,  p.  254;  1849,  10. 
p.  66  ;  1851,  pp.  37,  147  ;   1858,  p.  103  ; 


CHAP.  XLix.]   ETRUSCAN    TOMBS    AXD    THEIR    FURNITURE.    243 

Orbetello,  then,  by  tliese  remains  is  clearl}' proved  an  p]trnscaii 
site.  What  was  its  name  ?  Some  take  it  to  have  been  the 
Suceosa  of  the  Peiitingerian  Table  ;  "  but  I  liesitate  to  subscribe 
to  that  opinion,  and  am  rather  incdined  to  regard  it  as  an 
Etruscan  to\ni,  the  name  of  wbicli  lias  not  come  down  to  us. 
That  it  Avas  also  inhabited  in  lloman  times  is  proved  by  colunms, 
idtars,  cij^jji,  and  other  remains  which  have  been  found  here.  Its 
ancient  name  cannot  be  traced  in  its  modern  appellation,  which  is 
n])parently  a  mere  corruption  of  nrhicula,^  unless  it  be  significant 
of  its  antiquity — urhs  vctiis.  It  must  suffice  lor  us  at  present  to 
Icnow  that  here  has  stood  an  ancient  town,  originally,  it  ma}-  be, 
Pelasgic,  certainl}^  Etruscan,  and  afterwards  Roman." 

Orbetello  is  a  jilace  of  some  size,  having  nearly  3000  inhabit- 
ants, and  among  Maremma  towns,  is  second  only  to  Grosseto. 
It  is  a  proof  how  much  population  tends  to  salubrity  in  the 
^laremma,  that  Orbetello,  though  in  the  midst  of  a  stagnant 
lagoon,  ten  square  miles  in  extent,  is  comparatively  healthy,  and 
has  almost  doubled  its  population  in  24  years ;  while  Telamone, 
and  other  small  places  along  this  coast,  are  almost  deserted 
in  summer,  and  the  few  people  that  remain  become  bloated 
like  wine-skins,  or  yellow  as  lizards.^  Instead  of  one  good 
inn,  Ortebello  has  two  indifferent  ones,  called  from  the  names 
of  tlieii'  landlords,  Locanda  Saccocione  and  Locanda  Cassini. 
There  is  little  difference,  I  believe,  in  their  merits  or  demerits. 

"  Geihard,    Bull.    Inst.    1830,    pp.  251,  not    be   derived,   as   Las    Leen   suggested, 

254;  ilemor.    Inst.    III.    p.   S3;  Repetti,  "from  the  rotundity  of  its  walls,  which 

III.    p.    665.      The    Peutingerian    Table,  form  a  perfect  circle,"  seeing  that  the  said 

which    alone    makes    mention  of    Suceosa  walls  form    a  truncated    cone  in  outline, 

(see  Vol.  I.   p.   490),   jilaccs  it  two  miles  without   any   cui-ve   whatever.     There    is 

to  the  ea.st  of  Cosa,  while  Orbetello  is  five  nothing  round  about  Orbetello.     That  the 

or  six  miles  to  the  west.     The  correctness  name  wa.s  derived  from  urbicuhi,  or  urbi- 

of  these   Itineraries  may  indeed   often  be  cdht,  seems  confirmed   liy  the  fact  of  its 

questioned,   especially  that  of  the  Peutin-  being  called  Orbicellum  in  a  papal  bull  of 

gerian  Table,  in  which  even  Canina  admits  the    thirteenth    century.      Dempster,    II. 

the   existence   of   numerous   erroi-s.     Etr.  p.  432. 

^lar.  II.  p.  98.      But  I  think  it  more  pro-  ^  That  such  a  town  is  not  mentioned  by 

liable   that    Succos;x,    or    Subcosa,    wa.s    a  Strabo  or  Jlela,   by  Pliny  or  Ptolemy,  in 

station  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  on  which  Cosa  their  lists  of  places  along   this  coa.st,    is 

stands,  only  called  into  existence  after  the  explained  by  its  distance    from   the  sea, 

ruin  of  that  Etruscan  city.     See  Abeken,  from   which   it   could  not  be  approached. 

Jlittelitalien,    p.    34.       Some    have    even  It  must  have  been  regarded  <as  an  inland 

taken  Orbetello  to  be  the  site  of  Cosa  itself,  town,  and  may  be  mentioned  under  some 

in  spite  of  Strabo's  description,   that  Cosa  one    of    those    many   names    of    Etruscan 

.vtood  on  a  lofty  height.  towns,  whose  sites  have  not  yet  been  Jeter- 

■"'  So  called,  it  may  be,  to  distinguish  it  mined, 

from  the  larger  city  of  Cos;i  on  the  neigh-  '  llepetti.  III.  p.  680. 
bouring  heights.     Certainly  the  name  cm- 

R  2 


244  OEBETELLO.  [chap,  xlix- 

At  the  supper-taLle  I  nu-t  tlio  arch-priest  of  Tekmone,  a 
sprightly,  courteous  young  pastor,  Avhoni  I  had  seen  in  the 
morning  among  liis  flock,  and  a  motley  group  of  proprietors,  or 
country  gentlemen,  wild-hoar  hunters,  commercial  travellers, 
monks,  humpkins,  and  rcttnnni ;  among  Avhom  the  priest,  on 
account  of  his  cloth,  and  I  as  a  foreigner,  received  the  most 
attention.  Travelling  in  this  primitive  land  levels  all  distinctions 
of  rank.  The  landlord's  niece,  who  waited  on  us,  presuming  on 
her  good  looks,  chatted  iamiliarly  with  her  guests,  and  directed 
her  smartest  hanter  against  the  young  priest,  ridiculing  his 
vows  of  celihacy,  and  often  in  such  terms  as  would  have  driven 
an  English  woman  from  the  room.  Yet  Ilosinetta  was  scarcely 
sixteen  ! 

Hie  nuUus  verbis  piidor.  aut  reverentia  mensas. 


ANCIENT    GATE    AND    WALLS    OF    COSA. 


CHAPTER    L. 

ANSEDONIA.— C'O.S.-! . 

Ceruiinus  antiquas  nullo  custode  ruimvs, 
Et  desolatte  ma3nia  foeda  Cosis. — Rutilius. 

Go  round  about  her,  and  tell  the  towers  thereof. 
Mark  well  her  bulwarks  ;  that  ye  may  tell  them  that  come  after. — Psalm. 

As  Cosa  was  in  the  time  of  the  Emperor  Honorius,  such  is  it 
still — a  deserted  Avaste  of  ruins,  inclosed  by  dilapidated  walls  ; 
fourteen  centuries  have  wrought  no  change  in  its  condition. 
Vet  it  is  one  of  the  most  remarkable  of  Etruscan  sites,  and 
should  not  fail  to  be  visited  b}'  every  one  interested  in  ancient 
fortifications. 

It  occupies  the  Hat  summit  of  a  truncated  conical  hill,  about 
six  hundred  feet  higli,  Avhich  from  its  isolation,  and  proximity  to 
the  sea,  forms  a  conspicuous  object  in  the  scenery  of  this  coast. 
It  stands  just  outside  the  Feniglia,  the  southernmost  of  the  two 
necks  of  sand  which  connect  Monte  Argentaro  with  the  main-land  ; 
and  is  about  five  or  six  miles  to  the  south-east  of  Orbetello.^     It 


'  The  site  of  Cosa  has  been  much  dis- 
puted. Some  have  placed  it  at  Orbetello, 
others  at  Santa  Liberata,  near  Santo  Ste- 
fano  on  Monte  Argentixro  ;  yet  Strabo  (V. 
p.  I'lii)  has  described  its  position  so  as  to 


leave  no  reasonable  doubt  of  its  where- 
abouts. ' '  Cossa,  a  city  a  little  above  the 
sea.  The  lofty  height  on  which  the  town 
is  situated  lies  in  a  bay.  IJelow,  lies  the 
Portus   Herculis,    and    hard   by,  the  sea- 


246  COSA.  [chap.  l. 

were  best  to  leave  the  higli-road,  where  it  Legius  to  rise  at  the 
foot  of  the  liill  of  Cosa,  and  turn  down  a  hnie  to  the  right.  You 
will  presently  perceive  a  lonely  house  in  a  garden,  called  La 
Sek-iatella,  the  only  habitation  hereabouts.  Here  you  can  leave 
your  vehicle  and  will  probably  find  a  guide,  although  the  city  is 
so  conspicuous  and  the  path  to  the  ruins  so  direct,  that  a  guide 
is  hardly  necessary.  If  you  prefer  to  follow  the  high-road  to  the 
further  side  of  the  cit}^,  yon  can  take  as  your  guide  a  soldier 
from  the  Torre  della  Tagliata.  Any  one  avIio  can  point  out  the 
lions,  will  answer  the  purpose ;  you  must  exercise  your  own 
judgment  as  to  their  origin,  anticpiity,  and  purpose.  In(piire  not 
for  "  Cosa,"  or  you  will  be  answered  by  a  stare  of  surprise,  but 
for  "  Ansedonia,"  the  modern  appellation  of  the  site. 

It  is  a  steep  ascent  of  a  mile  or  more  to  the  Avails  of  Cosa. 
You  may  trace  the  ancient  road  all  the  way  to  the  gate,  running 
in  a  straight  line  up  the  rock}'  slope ;  it  is  but  a  skeleton, 
marked  by  the  kerb-stones,  for  the  inner  blocks  are  in  few  places 
remaining.  On  the  way  it  passes  some  Koman  ruins  of  brick, 
among  them  a  columhdrhon. 

He  who  has  not  seen  the  so-called  C^'clopean  cities  of  Latium 
and  Sabina,  of  Greece  and  of  Asia  Minor,  those  marvels  of  early 
art,  which  overpower  the  mind  with  their  grandeur,  bewilder  it 
with  amazement,  or  excite  it  to  active  speculations  as  to  their 
antiquity,  the  race  which  erected  them,  and  the  state  of  society 
which  demanded  fortifications  so  stupendous  on  sites  so  inacces- 
sible as  the}'  in  general  occupy ; — he  who  has  not  beheld  those 
Avouderful  trophies  of  early  Italian  civilization — the  bastion  and 
round  tower  of  Xorba — the  gates  of  Segni  and  Arpino — the 
citadel  of  Alatri — the  many  terraces  of  Cora — the  covered  way 
of  Pneneste,  and  the  colossal  works  of  the  same  masonry  in  the 
mountains  of  Latium,  Sabina,  and  Samnium,  will  be  astonished 
at  the  first  view  of  the  walls  of  Cosa.  Nay,  he  who  is  no  stranger 
to  this  style  of  masonry,  will  be  surprised  to  see  it  on  this  spot, 
so  remote  from  the  district  which  seems  its  j^eculiar  localit}'. 
He  will  behold  in  these  walls  immense  blocks  of  stone,  irregular 
polygons  in  form,  not  bound  together  with  cement,  yet  fitted  with 
such  admirable  nicety,  that  the  joints  are  mere  lines,  into  which 
he  may  often  in  vain  attempt  to  insert  a  penknife  :  the  surface 

marsh;  ami  cm  tlie  lie;ull;ui<l  nvIulIi  over-  from   ropuloiiiuiu   nearly  SOO  utadia  (lOfl 

hangs  the  hay  is  a  tower  for  watcliing  the  miles),    though  sonic  say   600  stadln   (75 

tiinny-fisli."     He  also  states  that  Cossa  is  miles).     Cf.  Kutil.  Itin.  I.  285  et  wy. 
oOO  KtacJia  (37^  inilcs)  from  (xraviscn?  ;  and 


PLAN 
C  O  S  A, 

ADAPTKD    FROM    MICAIJ. 


1.  Ancient  gates. 

2.  I'robiililo  site  of  a  gate. 

•'i,  .'!.  Square  towcra,  external  and  internal. 

4,  4.  Circular  towers,  internal. 

5.  •  Round  tower  of  Roman  work. 
(!.  The  Acropolis. 

7.  Ruins, — Etruscan,  Koman,  and  mediajval. 

8.  Deep  pit,  perhaps  a  quarry. 
0.  Roman  columbarium. 


248  COSA.  [CHAP.  L. 

smooth  as  a  Lilliard-taUe ;  and  the  ^vh<)k^  reseiiihhng,  at  a  httle 
distance,  a  freshly  phistered  Avail,  scratched  over  -with  strange 
diagrams. 

The  form  of  the  ancient  city  is  a  rude  quadrangle,  scarcely  a 
mile  in  circuit.-  The  walls  vary  from  twelve  to  thirty  feet  in 
height,  and  are  relieved,  at  intervals,  hy  square  towers,  pro- 
jecting from  eleven  to  fifteen  feet,  and  of  more  horizontal 
masonry  than  the  rest  of  the  fortifications.  Fourteen  of  these 
towers,  square  and  external,  and  two  internal  and  circular,  are 
now  standing,  or  to  he  traced ;  but  there  were  probably  more, 
for  in  several  x)laces  are  immense  heaps  of  ruins,  though  whether 
of  towers,  or  of  the  wall  itself  fallen  outwards,  ii  is  difficult  to 
determine. 

On  the  northern  side  there  is  but  one  tower  and  that  in  a 
ruined  state  ;  but  on  the  western,  or  that  facing  the  sea,  which 
was  most  open  to  attack,  I  counted,  besides  a  circular  one  within 
the  walls,  seven  external  towers,  in  various  states  of  preserva- 
tion, the  southernmost  being  the  largest  and  most  perfect.  This 
tower  is  twent3'-two  feet  wide,  and  about  twenty  high,  as  it  now 
stands.  In  the  wall  to  the  south  are  five  towers  square  and 
external,  and  one,  internal  and  circular,  forty-two  feet  in  dia- 
meter. On  the  eastern  side  there  is  but  one  ancient  square 
tower,  and  one  semicircular  of  smaller  and  more  recent  masonr}'. 
Though  I  have  called  these  towers  external,  the}'  also  project  a 
little  inward,  from  the  line  of  walls.'^ 

Though  Cosa  resembles  many  other  ancient  sites  in  Italy  in 
the  character  of  its  masonry,  it  has  certain  peculiarities.  I 
remember  no  other  instances  of  towers  in  polygonal  fortifications, 
with  the  exceptions  of  the  bastion  and  round  tower  of  Norba,  a 
similar  bastion  at  Alatri,  near  the  Porta  S.  Francesco,  and  the 
towers  at  Fondi,  apparently  of  no  high  antiquity.^  In  no  case 
is  there  a  continuous  chain  of  towers,  as  round  the  southern  and 

-  Micali's  Plan  of  the  city,  from  which  towers,    liowever,    had    been  -  ascertained 

that  annexed  is  adapted,  makes  it  about  long  before  the  time  of  Vitnivius  ;  for  in 

2,640  hraccia,  or  5,0G0  feet  English,  in  one  of  the  very  early  and  curious  Assyrian 

circumference.  reliefs  from  the  ruins  of  Nineveh,  now  in 

•*  In  Micali's  Plan  many  of  these  towers  the  British  Aluseum,  which  represents  the 

are  omitted.     It  will  be  observed  tliat  here,  .siege  of  a  city,  the  battering-ram  is  directed 

as  at  Falerii,  the  external  towers  are  not  against  the  angles  of  a  tower,  from  which 

of  that  form   recommended    by  Yitruvius  it  is  fast  dislodging  the  blocks. 
(I.   5),    who   says   they   should    be   either  "*  Jlemor.  Inst.  III.  p.  90.     Even  Pyrgi, 

round  or  many-sided,  for  the  square  ones  which  was  fortified  with  similar  masonry, 

are  easily  knocked  to  pieces  by  the  batter-  though    its  name  signified   "towers,"  re- 

ing-ram,  whereas  on  the  circular  it  can  make  tains  no  trace  of  such  in  its  walls.     See 

no  impression.     The  weakness   of  square  Vol.  I.  p.  293. 


CHAP.  1,.]  rOLYGOXAr.    WALLS    AND    TOWERS.  249 

westei'u  walls  of  Cosa.  Another  peculiarity  of  these  fortifications 
is,  tliat  in  many  parts  they  rise  generally  five  or  six  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  area  they  inclose,  as  is  also  the  ease  at  Volterra 
and  llusellii' ;  whereas  the  walls  of  the  Latin  and  Sabine  towns 
are  generally  mere  embankments.''  The  eastern  wall  of  Cosa 
rises  above  the  level  of  the  cit}',  in  parts  as  high  as  twelve  or 
fifteen  feet,  and  externally  the  wall  is  at  least  double  that  height. 
The  outer  half  of  the  wall  also  is  raised  three  or  four  feet  above 
the  inner,  to  serve  as  a  rampart :  this  I  have  seen  on  no  other 
site.  The  total  thickness  of  the  wall  in  this  superficial  part  is 
between  five  and  six  feet.  The  inner  surface  is  not  always 
smoothed  like  the  outer,  but  left  in  its  natural  state,  untouched 
by  hammer  or  chisel ;  showing  in  the  same  piece  of  walling  the 
rudest  and  the  most  finished  styles  of  Cyclopean  masonry,  and 
making  it  appear  probable  that  the  outer  surface  was  hewn  to  its 
perfection  of  smoothness  after  the  blocks  were  raised.  A  fourth 
peculiarity  is,  that  while  the  lower  portions  of  the  walls  are  of 
decidedly  pol3'gonal  masonrv,  the  upper  parts  are  often  composed 
of  horizontal  courses,  Avith  a  strong  tendency  to  rectangularity, 
and  the  blocks  are  generally  of  smaller  dimensions  than  the 
polygonal  masses  below  them.  The  line  between  these  difterent 
styles  is  sometimes  very  decidedly  marked,  which  seems  con- 
firmatory of  the  idea  suggested  b}'  the  first  sight  of  this  masonry, 
that  it  is  of  two  different  epochs  ;  the  rectangular  marking  the 
repairs — a  notion  further  strengthened  by  the  fact,  that  the 
material  is  the  same  throughout — a  close  gre}^  limestone.  For 
if  the  peculiar  cleavage  of  the  rock  had  led  to  the  adoption  of  the 
polygonal  style  in  the  first  instance,  it  would  have  continued  to 
do  so  throughout ;  and  an}-  deviation  from  that  style  would  seem 
to  mark  the  work  of  another  race,  or  subsequent  age.  On  the 
otlier  liand  it  may  be  said,  that  this  rectangular  masonry  is  but 
the  natural  finisliiiig  off  of  the  polygonal,  just  as  the  latter 
generalh'  runs  into  the  horizontal  at  angles,  as  may  be  observed 
in  the  gates  and  towers  of  this  same  city." 

"  I  have  visited  most  of  those  ancient  masonry,  though   dccideiUy  polygonal,  aj)- 

cities  in  the  mountains  of  Latium,  and  in  pears  in  the  door-post  of   the  gate  to   Lie 

the  land  of  the  .Tlqui,  Volsoi,  and  Ilernici,  rectangular.     In  the  fragment  of  walling 

and  remember   no   other  instance  of   the  to  the  left,  the  blocks  are  polygonal  below, 

walls  rising  above   the   level  of    the  city  and  regular  above,  or  at  least  laid  in  hori- 

they  inclose    than    the    round   tower    at  zontal  courses.    The  manner  in  which  small 

^orba.  pieces  were  fitted   into  the   interstices  is 

®  These  features  are  shown  in  the  wood-  also  shown.      15ut  the  peculiarities  of  the 

cut  at   the  head   uf   this    Chaiiter,   which  masonry  are  not  so  striking  in  this,  as  iu 

represents  the  eastern  gate  of  Cosa.     The  many  other  portions  of  the  fortifications. 


2j0  COSA.  [chap.  l. 

From  tlie  ramparts  you  may  perceive  that  the  walls  batter,  or 
fall  back  in  some  degree,  though  never  so  much  as  in  a  modern 
revctenwut,  but  the  towers  are  perpendicular  on  every  side,  save 
in  a  few  cases  where  the  masonry  is  dislocated,  and  the}'  tojiple 
over." 

Of  gates  there  is  the  orthodox  number  of  three  ;  one  in  the 
centre  of  the  northern,  southern,  and  eastern  walls  of  the  cit}' 
respectively."*  They  are  well  worthy  of  attention,  all  of  them 
being  double,  like  the  two  celebrated  gateways  of  Yolterra, 
though  witliout  even  the  vestige  of  an  arch.  The  most  perfect 
is  that  in  the  eastern  wall,  which  is  represented  in  the  woodcut 
at  the  head  of  this  chapter.^  It  is  evident  that  it  was  never 
arched,  for  the  door-post  still  standing  rises  to  the  height  of 
nearly  twenty  feet  in  a  jDerfecth*  upright  surface  ;  and  as  in  the 
Porta  di  Diana  of  Yolterra,  it  seems  to  have  been  spanned  by  a 
lintel  of  Avood,  for  at  the  height  of  twelve  or  fifteen  feet  is  a 
square  hole,  as  if  for  its  insertion.^  GatewaA's  on  a  similar  plan 
are  found  in  the  Cyclopean  cities  of  Latium — the  Porta  di  8. 
PVancesco  at  Alatri,  and  the  Porta  Cassamara  at  Ferentino  for 
instance  ;  the  latter  however  may  be  of  Koman  construction. 
The  arch  indeed  is  never  found,  in  Ital}'  at  least,  in  connection 
with  this  style  of  masonry ;  but  the  gateways  of  Cyclopean  cities 
were  either  spanned  by  tlat  slabs  of  stone,  or  when  of  too  great  a 
width,  b}'  lintels  of  wood,  or  else  by  stones  overlapping  each 
other,  and  gradually  converging  till  they  met  and  formed  a  rude 
sort  of  Gothic  arch.- 

On  this  side  of  the  city  the   masonry  is  '  It  is  shown  in  the  woodcut,  together 

smaller  than  on  the  others.     The  largest  of  with  the  upright  groove  for  the  xaracinenca , 

the  blocks  in  the  woodcut  is  not  more  than  or  portcullis,   like  that  in  the    Porta  all' 

4  feet  square,  and  the  height  of  the  waU  Arco  of  Yolterra. 

is  only  15  or  16  feet.  ^  In  Greece,  however,  regularly  arched 

7  The  bastion  and  round  tower  of  Norba,  gateways  have  been   found  in   connection 

on    the    contrarj',    nan-ow    upwards    con-  with  this  jjolygonal  masonry.     At  (Eniadse, 

siderably.  in  Acarnania,  is  a  postern  of  a  jierfect  arch 

*  There  may  have  been  a  postern  in  the  in  the  polygonal  walls  of  the  city.  Leake, 
south-eastern  angle  of  the  walls,  at  the  Xorthern  Greece,  III.  pp.  560  et  seq.  ; 
spot  marked  2  in  the  Plan.  Sir  II.  C.  Hoare  !Mure,  Tour  in  Greece,  I.  p.  109  ;  and  Ann. 
also  thought  he  could  perceive  four  gates  ;  Inst.  1838,  p.  134.  Mon.  Ined.  Inst.  II. 
and  he  speaks  of  four  ancient  roads.  tav.  57.  And  at  Xerokanipo,  in  the  neigh- 
Classical  Tour,  I.  p.  58.  bourhood  of  Spartii,  is  a  bridge  on  the  true 

'  Its  entrance  is  about  12  feet  wide,  but  arch-jjrinciple,   in   the    midst   of   masonrj- 

the  passage  within  is  double  that  in  width  of  irregular  polygons,  though  of  unusually 

and   28   feet  long  ;   the  inner  gate  is  no  small  size.     It  was  discovered  by  Dr.  Ross 

longer  standing,   though  indications  of  it  of  Athens,   but  first  made  known  to  the 

are   traceable.      The    depth    of   the  outer  world  by  Colonel  Mure,  in  the  Ann.  Inst, 

doorposts,  or  in  other  words  the  thickness  1S3S,  p.  140  ;  Mon.   Ined.   Inst.  loc.   cit; 

of  the  wall,  is  7  feet  8  inches.  and  afterwards  in  his  interesting  Tour  in 


CHAP.  L.]  THE    GATEWAYS.  2r,l 

The  other  two  gateways,  though  more  clihxpidated,  show  that 
the}'  have  heen  formed  on  the  same  plan  as  this  in  the  eastern 
wall.  In  the  one  to  the  south  is  a  block,  nine  feet  by  four,  the 
largest  I  observed  in  the  walls  of  Cosa.  In  this  gate  also  is  a 
large  round  hole  in  the  inner  doorpost  for  the  insertion  of  a 
wooden  lintel. 

The  gates  of  Cosa,  unlike  those  of  A'olterra,  do  not  exemplify 
the  precepts  of  Yitruvius,  that  the  road  to  a  gateAvay  sliould  be 
so  arranged,  that  the  approaching  foe  should  have  his  right  side, 
or  that  unprotected  by  his  shield,  open  tt)  the  attacks  of  the 
besieged.'' 

I  observetl  no  instances  of  sewers  opening  in  these  walls,  as 
usual  in  Etruscan  fortifications,  and  as  are  found  also  in  certain 
other  Cycdopean  cities  of  Italy.'  Yet  such  nuiy  exist,  for  I 
found  it  impossible  fully  to  inspect  the  walls  on  the  southern 
and  western  sides,  the  slopes  beneath  them  being  covered  with 
a  wood  so  dense  as  to  be  often  impenetrable,  tlKUigh  the  difficul- 
ties are  not  aggravated,  as  at  liuselhe,  by  any  thickets  more 
formidable  than  myrtle,  lentiscus,  and  laurestinus. 

Within  tlie  cit}-,  all  is  ruin — a  chaos  of  crumbling  walls,  over- 
turned masonry,  scattered  masses  of  bare  rock,  and  subterranean 
vaults,  "  where  the  owl  peeps  deeming  it  midnight," — all  overrun 
with  shrubs  and  creei)ers,  and  acanthus  in  great  profusion.  The 
popular  superstition  may  be  pardoned  for  regarding  this  as  the 
haunt  of  demons  ;  for  ages  it  was  the  den  of  bandits  and  outlaws, 
and  tradition,  kept  alive  by  the  natural  gloominess  of  the  spot, 
has  thus  preserved,  it  may  be,  the  remembrance  of  their  atro- 
cities. At  the  south-western  corner  of  the  area  was  the  Arx, 
for  the  ground  here  rises  considerably  above  the  ordinary  level, 
and  is  banked  up  with  masonry  in  parts  polygonal,  but  in  general 

Greece,  II.  p.  248.      Sevenil  archicologists  I  luiiy  mention  a  sewer  in  the  walls  of  tlic 

of  eminence,   however,  who  have  seen  it,  latter  city,  close  to  the  bastion  by  the  Porta 

have  declared  to  mc  their  full   conviction  di  San  Francesco,  which  is  of  very  peculiar 

that  this    bridge    is    of   late    date  and   of  form— a   truncated    cone    inverted,    appa- 

Ilonian  construction.     Cf.  ]5ull.  Inst.  1S43,  rently  2  feet  wide  above,  tapering  to  1  foot 

p.  77.     In  the  polygonal  walls  of  CEnoanda  below,  and   about  3  feet   in   height.      The 

in  the  Cibyratis,  north  of  Lycia,  there  is  a  lietter  known  opening  in  the  walls  of  the 

gateway  regularly  arched,  with  Greek  in-  cita<lel  of  Alatri,  I  flo  not  believe  to  be  a 

scriptions  on  tablets  in  the  masonry  by  its  sewer,   but  a   postern.      In  the   Cyclopean 

side  ;  as  I  learn  from  the  portfolio  of  .Mr.  walls  of  Vernhe,  now  Yeroli,  in  the  rudest 

Edward  Falkener.  and  most  ancient  parts  of  the  masonry,  are 

^  Vitruv.  I.  5.  several  sewers — tall  upright  openings,  like 

■•  Besides  the  instances  of  such  openings  that  in  the  walls  of   Norba,   or  yet  more 

in  the  walls  of  Norba,  Segni,  and  Alatri,  similar  in  form  and  dimensions  to  those  so 

i-eferred  to  in  Chai)ter  XLI.  (see  page  111'),  common  in  the  cities  of  southern  Etruria. 


252  COSA.  [chap.  l. 

regular,  like  tliat  in  similar  situatiiMis  at  Eusellje.  On  this 
platform  are  several  ruins,  bare  walls  rising  to  the  height  of 
twenty  feet,  apparently  of  the  low  Empire,  or  still  later,  of  the 
middle  ages  ;  and  numerous  foundations,  some  of  the  same  small 
cemented  masonry,  others  of  larger  rectangular  blocks,  decidedly 
Roman,  and  some  even  polygonal,  like  the  city-walls.  It  is 
probable  that  the  latter,  as  the  earliest  masonry — for  in  many 
l)arts  the  Ronuin  work  rests  on  it — marks  the  substructions  of 
the  three  temples  which  the  Etruscans  Avere  wont  to  raise  in 
every  city  to  the  divine  trio,  Jupiter,  Juno,  and  ^Minerva.' 

Within  the  gate  to  the  east,  are  many  remains  of  buildings, 
some  with  upper  stories  and  windows  ;  and  not  far  from  this  is  a 
deep  holloAv  with  precipitous  walls  of  rock,  which  seems  to  have 
been  a  quarry. 

Joyfully  will  the  traveller  liail  the  view  from  the  ramparts  of 
Cosa;  and  in  truth  it  were  hard  to  find  one  on  this  coast  more 
singular,  varied,  and  grand.  Inland,  rise  loftj-  walls  of  rock — 
rugged,  stern,  and  forbidding — blocking  up  all  view  in  that 
dii-ection.  At  his  feet  spreads  the  sun-bright  baj',  with  Porto 
Ercole  and  its  rocky  islet  on  the  further  shore,^  but  not  a  skiff  to 
break  tlie  blue  calm  of  its  waters  ;  the  Avide  lagoon  is  mapped 
out  by  its  side ;  and  the  vast  double-peaked  mass  of  Monte 
Argentaro,  the  natural  Gibraltar  of  Tuscany,  overshadows  all, 
Ij'ing  like  a  majestic  vessel  along  the  shore,  moored  by  its  tln-ee 
ropes  of  sand  ~ — the  castellated  Orbetello  being  but  a  knot  in  the 
centre  of  the  middle  one.  To  the  north  he  looks  along  the  pine- 
fi'inged  coast  to  the  twin  headlands  of  the  Bay  of  Telamone,  and 
then  far  away  over  the  level  Maremma,  to  the  distant  heights  of 
Troja  and  the  grey  peaks  of  Elba.  The  Giglio,  the  so-called 
*•  Lily "  island,  is  lost  behind  the  Argentaro ;  but  the  eye,  as 
it  travels  southwards,  rests  on  the  islet  of  the  Giannutri;*'  and, 

^  Senilis,  ad  Viig.  JLn.  I.  422.  two  Lsthmi.     Qbe  Tombolo,  or  that  to  the 

•*  The  Portus   Herciilis   of   Rutilius   (I.  north,  may  liave  been   clei)osited   by  the 

293),    and   the    Itinerarie.s.      It  ■was   also  All>egna,    which    opens  hard   by  ;  but  for 

called   Portus  Cosanus.     Liv.    XXII.    11  ;  the  Feniglia— there  is  no  river  discharging 

XXX.  39.      I  have  not  visited  it  ;  but  Sir  itself  hereabouts.      The  circuit  of  36  miles, 

R.  C.  Hoare  says  it  is  a  singular  town,  and  which    Rutilius   (I.    318)  ascribes  to   this 

"resembles  a  flight  of  stejis,  each  street  iiromontory,  seems  much  exaggerated.     For 

bearing  the  appearance  of  a  landing-pl.ice."  the   physical  features  and  productions  of 

Cla.ssical  Tour,  I.   p.  56.     There  are  .said  this  singular  district,  see  Brocchi,  Osserva- 

to  be  no  antiquities  remaining.    Viag.  Ant.  zioni  natiirali  sul  proniontorio  Argentaro, 

per  la  Via  Aurelia,  ji.  5-J.  I>il)liot.     Ital.     XI.,    and    Repetti,    jf.    c. 

''  It  is  highly  probable  that  the  ^lonte  Orbetello. 
Argentaro   was  once  an  island  ;  but  it  jg  *  The   Dianium,    or  Artemisia   of    the 

difficult  to  account  for  the  formation  of  the  ancients.     :Mela,  II.  J  ;  Plin.  III.  12. 


CHAP.  L.]  THE    SUEEOUNDINGS    OF    COSA.  2.33 

after  scuuiiiiig  the  wide  horizon  of  watei's,  meets  land  again  in  the 
dini  hills  above  Civita  Vaccina.  The  intervening  coast  is  low, 
tlat,  desert, — here  a  broad  strip  of  sand, — there  a  long,  sea-shore 
lagoon,  or  a  deadly  fen  or  swamp, — now  a  tract  dark  with  nnder- 
wood, — now  a  wide,  barren  moor,  treeless,  houseless — 

Arsiccia,  niicla,  sterile,  e  dcserta. 

Yet  in  tliis  region,  all  desolate  as  it  now  appears,  stood  A'ulci, 
that  mine  of  sepulchral  treasures,  and  Tarquinii,  the  queen  of 
Ktruscan  cities,  with  her  port  of  Graviscie  ;  and  Corneto,  lier 
modern  representative,  may  be  descried,  thirty  miles  oft",  lifting 
her  diadem  of  towers  above  the  nearer  turrets  of  Montalto. 

Around  the  walls  of  Cosa  there  are  few  relics  of  antiquit}'.  It 
is  said  that  in  the  plain  below  are  "  ver}'  extensive  remains  of  a 
wall  of  much  ruder  construction  "  than  those  of  the  cit}- ;  -'  but  I 
did  not  perceive  them.  Near  the  Torre  della  Tagliata  are  several 
ruins  of  Iloman  date,  of  which  those  commonly  called  Bagni  della 
Regina  are  the  most  remarkable.  You  enter  a  long  cleft  in  the 
rock,  sixty  or  sevent}'  feet  deep,  and  on  one  side  perceive  a  huge 
cave,  within  which  is  a  second,  still  larger,  api^arentl}-  formed  for 
baths ;  for  there  are  seats  cut  out  of  the  living  rock — vivo  sedilia 
saxo — but  all  now  in  utter  ruin.  The  place,  it  has  been  remarked, 
recalls  the  grotto  of  tlie  Nymphs,  described  by  Yirgil ;  ^  but 
popular  tradition  has  peopled  it  Avith  demons,  as  says  Faccio 
degli  Uberti — ■ 

Ivi  e  aiicor  ove  fue  la  Sendonia, 
Ivi  e  la  cava,  ove  andarno  a  tonne. 
Si  erode  il  tristo,  overo  le  demonia. 

Among  the  ruins  on  the  shore  at  this  spot  is  some  mosaic 
pavement.  The  site  has  been  taken,  with  considerable  proba- 
bility, for  that  of  Subcosa.'' 

No  tombs  are  to  be  seen  on  the  slopes  around  Cosa.  It  is 
probable,  that,  like  those  of  Ilusell*,  Cortona,  and  Saturnia,  they 
Avere  constructed  of  nule  masonry,  and  covered  over  with  earth. 
Such  seems  to  have  been  the  plan  adopted  on  sites  Avhere  the 
rock  was  too  hard  to  admit  of  easy  excavation.     ^Vt  Yolterra  and 

"•'  Classical  Musctiin,  V.  ]>.  180.  30)  made  tlie  same  distinction  ;  hut  both 

'  Jl'in.  I.  1G7  ;  llepctti,  III.  p.  679.  seeni  to  have  heen  led  to  this  conclusion  by 

-  JIannert,    Gcog.    p.    366.       According  the  lines  of  Faccio    degli    Ulicrti,   quoted 

to   this   writer,    it   is  this    spot    which    is  ahove  ;  for  the  city  itself  is  certaiidy  now 

called  Ansedonia,  and  not  the  ruined  city  called  Ansedonia. 

ahove.      Ilolstenius  (Annot.   ail  Cluver.  p. 


2j4  COSA.  [chap.  l. 

Populonia  it  was  not  necessan-,  for  there  were  soft  strata  in  the 
neighbourhood.  Excavations,  however,  have  been  made  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Cosa,  especially  in  the  high  ground  of  the  plain 
to  the  north-east  of  the  city.^  A  tomb  with  archaic  paintings  on 
its  walls,  very  like  those  of  the  Grotta  Campana,  at  Yeii,  was 
opened  in  1870,  by  Signor  Marcelliani,  who  sent  sketches  of  the 
paintings  to  the  Archaeological  Institute  at  Rome.* 

The  walls  of  Cosa,  so  unlike  those  of  most  cities  of  Etruria,  to 
what  people,  and  to  what  age  shall  we  refer  them '?  Can  it  be 
that  they  Avere  raised  by  the  Etruscans  themselves — induced  to 
depart  from  their  general  style  of  masonry  by  the  local  rock  having 
a  natural  cleavage  mto  polygons  ?  Or  are  the  pecuharities  of  these 
and  similar  walls  in  Etruria  characteristic  of  the  race  Avhicli  con- 
structed them,  rather  than  of  the  materials  of  which  they  are 
formed  ?  Are  they  to  be  attiibuted  to  the  earliest  occupants  of 
the  land,  the  Umbri  or  the  Pelasgi '? — or  to  much  later  times, 
and  to  the  Eoman  conquerors  ?  The  latter  view  seems  now  in 
favoui'.  It  was  first  broached  by  INlicali,  the  great  advocate  of 
the  indigenous  origin  of  the  Etruscans,  and  who  sought,  by 
invalidating  the  antiquity  of  this  polygonal  style,  to  enhance  that 
of  the  regular  masonry,  which  is  more  peculiarly  Etruscan.  He 
maintains  that  the  walls  of  Cosa,  and  of  Saturnia,  which  resemble 
them,  are  among  the  least  ancient  in  the  land  ;  and  he  suggests 
that  they  may  have  been  raised  by  the  Eoman  Colon}',  estabhshed 
here  at  the  close  of  the  fifth  century  of  the  City,  seeing  that  the 
Romans  are  known  to  have  employed  this  masonry  in  certain  of 
their  public  works.  "  A  mere  glance,"  says  he,  "  at  the  walls  of 
Cosa,  so  smooth  and  well  preserved,  proves  theii'  construction  to 
be  of  small  antiquity  in  comparison  with  those  of  Fiesole  and 
Volterra,  of  quadrilateral  blocks,  and  of  genuine  Etruscan  work- 
manship." The  superior  sharpness  and  freshness  in  these  walls 
of  Cosa,  however,  are  no  proof  whatever  of  a  less  remote  antiquity. 
Micali's  argument,  to  have  any  weight,  should  show  that  the 
material  of  which  these  walls  are  respectiveh-  comj^osed,  is  either 
the  same,  or  one  equally  aftected  by  atmospheric  influences. 
The  fact  is  that  the  fortifications  of  Volterra  and  Fiesole,  and 
those  also  of  Fopulonia  and  Cortona,  are  either  of  maclfino, 
stratified  sandstone,  or  of  other  rock  equally  friable,  while  those 

^  Bull.  Inst.   1851,  p.   7.   ilicali  (^lon.  ve.^.'^el  of  bronze,  containing  an  otloriferons 

Inetl.   p.  328)  states  that  what  wa.s  found  gum,  wliich,  when  Lurnt,  gave  forth  a  most 

liere  in  1837  was  presented  by  himself  to  agreeable  jiei-fume. 
Pope  Gregory  XVI.  ;  and  speaks  of  a  flat  ■•  Bull.  Inst.,  1S70,  p.  36. 


CHAI".    I..] 


XOTES    OX    POLYGOXAL    IkLVSOXEY. 


255 


of  C\)sa    and  Satuiiiia    are  respectively  of  liarcl    liiuestoiie    and 
travertine.^ 

It  would  demand  more  room  llian  the  limits  of  this  work  -will 
allow,  to  discuss  this  subject  to  its  full  extent.  But  I  must  make 
a  few  remarks. 

This  polygonal  masonry  is  of  high  antiquity,  long  prior  to 
Ivoman  times,  though  every  instance  of  it  cannot  claim  to  he  of  so 
remote  a  date.  It  must,  however,  he  of  later  origin  than  that 
composed  of  unhewn  masses,  rudely  piled  up,  with  no  further 
adjustment  than  the  insertion  of  small  blocks  in  the  interstices — ■ 
that  style  which,  from  the  description  of  Pausanias,  is  sometimes 
designated  "  Cyclopean ;  "  ^  for  this  polygonal  masonrv  is  the 
perfecting  of  that  ruder  mode  of  construction."  Yet  that  this 
smooth-surfaced,  closely -joined  style,  as  seen  in  the  walls  of  Cosa, 
is  also  of  early  origin,  is  proved,  not  only  by  numerous  instances 
of  it  on  very  ancient  sites  in  Greece  and  Italy — some  referred  to 
as  marvels  of  antiquity  by  the  ancients  themselves — but  also  by 
the  primitive  style  of  its  gateway's,  and  the  absence  of  the  arch  in 
connection  with  it.^  The  fact  of  the  Romans  adopting  this  style 
of  masonrv,  as   tliev  seem  to   have   done  in  the  substructions  of 


^  :MicaH,  Ant.    Top.    Ital.    II.   pp.  144, 
1S»(5  ;  III.  p.   6.     I  cite  Micali  ia  this  in- 
stance, not  as  the  writer  who  has  treated 
the  subject  in  the  most  able  manner,  but 
JUS   the    originator   of   the  opinion    of   tlie 
Roman  origin  of  Cosa,  and  as  one  wlio  has 
been  referred  to  as  authority  on  the  point, 
fi  Tausiin.   II.    16,  4  ;  25,  7  ;  YII.    25. 
raus;\nias,  however,  applies  the  same  term 
to  the  walls  of  Mycen;e,  which  are  of  hewn 
polygonal  blocks,  and  even  to  the  celebrated 
Gate   of  the    Lions,   which  is   of   regular, 
squared  masonry.     The    term    is   also   re- 
peatedly used  by  Euripides  in  reference  to 
the  walls  of  Mycenas,  or  of  Argos  (Elect. 
115S  ;     Iphig.     Aul.    152,     534,     1501  ; 
Orest.    963  ;    Troad.    1083 ;    Here.    Fur. 
''44;    compare   Seneca,    Here.    Fur.    997  ; 
Statins,    Tlieb.    I.    252).     It    is  therefore 
clear  that  the  term   "Cyclopean"  ciinnot 
with  propriety  be  confined,  as  it  has  been 
by  Dodwell,  (iell,   and   others,  to  masonry 
of  the  rudest  unhewn  description,  in  con- 
tradistinction to  the  neater  polygonal,  or  to 
the  horizontal  style.     The  term  was   em- 
ployed in  reference  to  the  traditions  of  the 
iireeks,  rather  than  to  the  character  of  the 
masonry  ;  or  if  used  in  this  way  it  was 
generic,    not   specific ;    applicable   to   any 


Availing  of  great  massiveness,  which  had 
the  appearance,  or  the  rejjutation,  of  high 
antiquity.  "  Arces  Cyclopum  autem,  aut 
quas  Cyclopes  feeerunt,  aut  magni  ac  miri 
operis  ;  nam  quicquid  magnitudine  sua, 
nobile  est  Cyclopum  manu  dicitur  fabri- 
catum."  Lactant.  ad  Stat.  Theb.  I.  252  ; 
cf.  I.  630.  Though  rejected  altogether  by 
Bunsen  (Ann.  Inst.  1834,  p.  145),  the  term 
is  convenient — se  non  e  vcro,  e  hen  trovato 
— and  in  default  of  a  better,  has  some 
claim  to  be  retained.  On  this  ground  I 
have  made  use  of  it  in  the  course  of  this 
work  in  its  generic  sense,  applying  it  alike 
to  all  early  massive  irregular  masonry. 

^  Gell  held  the  contrary  opinion — that 
the  polygonal  was  more  ancient  by  some 
centuries.     Topog.  Rome,  II.  p.  165. 

«  Gerhard  (Ann.  Inst.  1829,  p.  40), 
remarking  on  this  fact,  says  it  seems 
certain  that  even  the  least  ancient  remains 
of  this  description  preceded  the  invention 
of  the  arch.  But  this  is  refuted  by  the 
recent  discovery  of  arches  in  connection 
with  this  miusonry  in  Greece  and  Asia 
Minor.  T^  acy^ra,  pp.  250,  251.  In  none  of 
these  cases,  however,  have  the  structures 
iin  ajipcarance  of  very  remote  antiquity. 


256  COSA.  [chap.  l. 

some  of  tlieir  great  Ways,  and  perhaps  in  a  few  cities  of  Latiuni,'' 
in  no  way  militates  against  the  high  antiquity  of  the  type.  The 
Romans  of  early  times  were  a  servile  race  of  imitators,  who  had 
little  original  heyond  their  hcUipotentia,  and  were  ever  borrowing 
of  their  neighbours,  not  only  civil  and  religious  institutions,  and 
whatever  ministered  to  luxury  and  enjoyment,  but  even  the  sterner 
arts  of  war.  Thus  in  their  architecture  and  fortifications  :  in 
Sabina  they  seem  to  have  copied  the  style  of  the  Sabincs,  in 
Latium  of  the  Latins,  in  Etruria  of  the  Etruscans.  In  Avhat 
degree  they  may  have  been  led  to  this  b}'  the  local  materials,  is  a 
question  for  separate  consideration. 

Conceding  that  the  style  of  masonry  must  to  a  considerable 
extent  have  been  aifected  b}"  the  character  of  the  materials  em- 
ployed, I  cannot  hold,  with  some,  that  it  was  the  natural  and 
unavoidable  result — I  cannot  believe  in  a  constructive  necessit}' — 
that  with  certain  given  materials  every  people  in  every  age  would 
have  produced  the  same  or  a  similar  description  of  masonry. 
There  are  conventionahties  and  fashions  in  this  as  in  other  arts. 
It  were  easy,  indeed,  to  admit  the  projDosition  in  regard  to  the 
ruder  Cyclopean  style,  which  is  a  mere  random  piling  of  masses 
as  detached  from  the  quarry;  a  style  which  may  suggest  itself 
to  an}'  people,  and  which  is  adopted,  though  on  a  much  smaller 
scale,  in  the  formation  of  fences  or  of  embankments  by  the  modern 
Itahans  and  Tyrolese,  and  even  by  the  i)easantr3'  of  England  and 
Scotland,  on  spots  where  stone  is  cheaper  than  wood.  But  the 
polygonal  masonry  of  which  we  are  treating  is  of  a  totallv  different 
character ;  and  it  seems  unreasonable  to  suppose  that  the  mar- 
vellous neatness,  the  artistic  j)erfection  displayed  in  polygonal 
structures  like  the  walls  of  Cosa,  could  have  been  produced  by 
any  people  indifferentl}'  who  happened  to  fix  on  the  site.  For  it 
is  not  the  mere  cleavage  of  the  rock  into  polygonal  masses  tliat 
Avill  produce  this  masonry.  There  is  also  the  accm'ate  and 
laborious  adjustment,  the  careful  adaptation  of  parts,  and  the 
subsequent  smoothing  of  the  whole  into  an  uniform,  level  surface. 
If  ever  masonry  had  the  stamp  of  peculiarity-  it  is  this.     Not  the 

^  In  the  Via  Salaria,  near  Kieti,  and  in  Gerhard,  Ann.   Inst.   1S29,  p.    55,  et  seq. 

several  places  between  Antrodoco  and  Civita  83    et   scq.;  Bunsen,  Ann.  Inst.   1834,  p. 

Ducale  ;  in  the  Via  Valeria,  below  Roviano,  144;  Bunbury,   Classical  Jluseum,   V.   p. 

and  elsewhere  between  Tivoli  and  Taglia-  167    et  seq.      Strabo    (V.    p.    237)   states 

cozzo  ;   and   in   the    Via   Appia,    between  that  most  of  the  cities  on  the  Via  Latina, 

Terracina  and  Fondi.     The  cities,   whose  in   the  lands  of  the  Hernici,  Jiqui,  and 

polygonal  fortifications  have  been  ascribed  Volsci,  were  built  by  the  Romans. 
to  the   Romans,    are   Norba   and   Signia. 


CHAP.  L.]      THE    ORIGIN    OF    TOLYGOXAL    MASOXEY. 


257 


reguLir  iHCMluiiioit  of  the  Greeks,  nor  the  o27iis  reticidatam  of  the 
lioniiuis  has  it  more  strongl}'  marked.  I  could  as  readily  believe 
that  the  Corinthian  capital  was  invented  by  ever}'  nation  by  which 
it  has  been  adopted,  as  that  this  style  of  masomy  had  an  in- 
dependent origin  in  every  country  where  it  has  been  found. ^ 

The  question  next  arises,  to  what  particular  race  is  this  peculiar 
masonry  to  be  ascribed.  No  doubt  when  once  introduced,  the 
fashion  might  be  adopted  by  other  tribes  than  that  which  origi- 
nated it,"  but  the  type,  whose  source  alone  we  are  considering, 
would  still  be  proper  to  one  race.  Now  at  the  risk  of  being 
thought  to  entertain  old-fashioned  opinions,  I  nnist  confess  that 
I  can  refer  it  to  no  other  than  the  Pelasgi.  Not  tliat,  with  Sir 
AV.  Gell,  I  would  cite  the  myth  of  Lj'caon,  son  of  Pelasgus,  and 
founder  of  Lycosura,  as  ])r<)of  that  this  masonry  was  of  Pelasgic 
origin'^ — I  might  even  admit  that  "there  is  no  conclusive  evidence 
in  any  one  instance  of  the  Pelasgian  origin  of  the  monuments 
under  consideration  "  '^ — yet  there  is,  in  most  cases,  the  same 
kiud  and  degree  of  evidence  as  lead  us  to  ascribe  the  walls  of 
I'iesole  and  Volterra  to  the  Etruscans,  those  of  Psestum  to  the 
Greeks,  or  Stonehenge  to  the  Druids.  We  find  it  recorded  that 
in  A-ery  early  times  the  lands  or  sites  were  occupied  by  certain 
races  ;  and  finding  local  remains,  which  analogy  marks  as  of  high 


'  The  adoption  of  this  style  hy  the 
Romans  in  the  ijavements  of  their  high- 
ways, iu  no  way  affects  the  question.  The 
earliest  of  these  road-,  the  Via  Ajjpia,  was 
constructed  only  in  the  year  442  (b.  c.  312) 
— a:4cs  later  even  than  those  polygonal 
cities  which  are  sometimes  ascribed  to  the 
Romans  ;  and  it  may  be  that  they  but 
imitated  the  roads  of  their  predecessors. 
Still  less  can  the  use  of  polygonal  pavement 
by  the  modern  Florentines,  be  admitted  as 
an  argument  against  the  peculiarity  of  the 
type,  as  ^licali  would  fain  have  it.  Ant. 
Top.  Ital.  I.  p.  197.  They  have  but 
adhered  to  the  style  which  was  handed 
down  to  tliem  from  antiquity,  while  the 
modem  Romans  have  preferred  the  opus 
retlcuhUum  as  the  model  for  their  i)aTe- 
ments.  And  though  I^Iicali  contends  for  a 
constructive  necessity,  it  is  completely  set 
aside  by  the  fact,  which  he  mentions,  that 
the  stone  for  the  pavement  of  Florence  is 
brought  from  the  heights  of  Fiesole  ;  for 
the  horizontal  cleavage  of  that  rock  is 
nianifest  and  notorious. 

Xor  can  the  existence  of  polygonal 
VOL.  n. 


masonry  in  the  fortresses  and  other  struc- 
tures of  the  aboriginal  Peruvians,  be  re- 
garded as  opposed  to  the  peculiarity  of  the 
type.  Too  great  a  mystery  hangs  over  the 
origin  of  that  singular  race,  and  of  its 
civilization,  for  us  to  admit  them  as  evi- 
dence in  this  question.  The  style  seems  to 
have  differed  from  that  of  the  polj'gonal 
masonry  of  the  old  world,  resembling  it  in 
little  more  than  the  close-fitting  of  the 
masses.  If  anything  is  to  be  learned  from 
these  structures,  it  is  that  they  contradict 
the  doctrine  of  a  constructive  necessity  ; 
being  of  granite  or  porphyry,  which  have 
no  polygonal  cleavage  ;  and  are  rather 
suggestive  of  a  traditional  custom.  See 
Prescott's  Conquest  of  Peru,  I.  pp.  16, 143. 

-  Chevalier  Bunsen  maintains  that  many 
of  the  jjolygonal  fortifications  of  Italy  were 
raised  by  the  Yolsci,  JLqui,  and  Hernici. 
Ann.  Inst.  1834,  p.  142.  lint  if  this 
be  admitted,  it  does  not  prove  that  the 
type  originated  with  them. 

•'  Grcll,  Rome,  II.  v.  Pelasgi. 

*  Bunbury,  Clas.  Mus.  Y.  p.  186. 


258  COSA.  [CHAP.  L. 

antiquity,  and  not  of  Roman  construction,  we  feel  authorised  in 
ascribing  them  to  the  respective  peoples.  The  wide-spread 
existence  of  this  masonry  through  the  countries  of  the  ancient 
world,  the  equally  wide  diffusion  of  the  Pelasgic  race,'^  and  the 
remarkable  correspondence  of  the  lands  it  occupied  or  inhabited 
with  those  where  these  monuments  most  abound  ;  to  say  nothing 
of  the  impossibility  of  ascribing  them  with  a  sliadow  of  reason  to 
any  other  particular  people  mentioned  in  history — afford  satis- 
factory evidence  to  my  mind  of  the  Pelasgic  origin  of  the  polj'gonal 
masonry.  And  here  it  is  not  necessar}'  to  determine  the  much 
vexata  qncestio,  what  and  whence  was  that  Pelasgic  race,  which 
was  so  widely  diffused  throughout  the  ancient  world ;  it  is  enough 
to  know  that  in  almost  ever}'  land  which  it  is  said  to  have  occupied, . 
we  find  remains  of  this  description.''  In  Thessaly,  Epims,  and 
the  Peloponnesus,  the  peculiar  homes  of  this  people,  such 
monmnents  are  most  abundant ;  they  are  found  also  in  the  Isles 
of  the  ^-Egffian  Sea,  and  on  the  coasts  of  Asia  Minor,  which  were 
at  some  period  occupied  or  colonised  by  the  Pelasgi.  AVe  know 
also,  that  they  built  the  ancient  wall  round  the  Acropohs  of 
Athens  ;  and  the  way  in  which  this  fact  is  mentioned  "  in  connec- 
tion with  their  wandering  habits,  favours  the  opinion  held  b}' 
some,  that  these  Pelasgi  were  the  gi'eat  fort-builders  of  antiquit}', 
a  migrator}'  race  of  warlike  masons,  who  went  about  from  land  to 
land,  sword  in  one  hand,  hammer  and  chisel  in  the  other,  foilify- 
ing  themselves  wherever  they  conquered.  In  Italy  also,  those 
regions  which  abound  most  in  such  monuments  were  all  once  in 
possession  of  the  Pelasgi,  though  it  must  be  acknowledged  on  the 
other  hand,  that  we  have  historic  mention  of  that  race  in  certain 
other  districts — at  the  head  of  the  Adriatic,  and  in  (Enotria 
— where  no  such  remains  have  been  discovered  ;  ^  nor  indeed  do 

'  "It  is  not  a  mere  hji^othesis,"  says  Hecatreus,  ap.  Herod.  VI.  13". 
Niebuhr,  ' '  but  with  a  full  historical  con-  ^  It  is  asserted  that  no  polygonal  struc- 

viction,   that  I   assert,    there  was  a  time  tures   are   to   be   found    in    Basilicata  or 

when  the  Pelasgians,   then  perhaps  more  Calabria  ;  nor,  indeed,  north  of  the  Om- 

widely  spread   than   any  other  people  in  hrone,  nor  south  of  the  Vultumus— some 

Europe,    extended    from   the   Po  and  the  say  the  Silarus.     Jlemor.  Inst.  I.  p.  72 ; 

Amo  almost  to  the  Bosphorus."     I.  p.  52,  Ann.  Inst.,  1834,  p.  143.     But,  as  regards 

Eng.  trans.  the  south  of  Italy,  the  assertion  is  prema- 

*  Gerhard    (Memor.    Inst.    III.    p.    72)  ture.    Have  .sufficient  researches  been  made 

takes  these   structures  of   irregular   poly-  among  the   Calabi-ian  Apennines  ?     Petit- 

gons  to  be  Pelasgic.     Miiller  (Archiiologie  Radel,   who   maintains   the    Pela.sgic  con- 

der  Kunst,  p.  27)  thinks  that  most  of  the  struction   of    this   masonry,    asserts    that 

so-called  Cyclopean  walls  of  Epirus  and  the  there  are  remains  of  it  fai-  south,  in  Apulia 

Peloponnesus  were  erected  by  the  Pelasgi.  and  Lucania.    Jlemor.    Instit.  III.  pp.  55- 

?  Myrsilus,  ap.  Dion.    Hal.    I.    c.    28;  66.     I  have  heard  that  some  singular  dis- 


CHAi>.  L.J  THIS    MASONEY    IS    PELASGIC.  259 

Ave  find  Willis  of  this  eliiiracter  in  all  the  ancient  cities  of  central 
Italy — oven  of  Ktruria — which  are  said  to  have  had  a  Pelasgic 
origin.''^  These  discrepancies,  whether  real  or  apparent,  whether 
occasioned  by  the  character  of  the  local  rock,  or  by  the  entire 
destruction  of  the  earliest  monuraonts  of  the  land,  are  but  excep- 
tions to  the  rule,  and  do  not  invalidate  the  evidence  for  the  Pelasgic 
origin  of  this  peculiar  masonry. 

It  is  ver_y  probable  that  the  local  rock  in  some  cases,  though 
not  in  all,  determined  the  style  of  the  masonry.  Where  it 
naturally  split  into  rectangular  forms,  as  is  the  case  with  the 
)it((cii/it()  of  Cortona,  and  the  volcanic  tufo  of  southern  Etruria, 
there  the  horizontal  may  have  been  preferred,  even  by  those  who 
■were  wont  to  employ  a  different  description  of  masonry.  This 
seems  to. have  been  the  case  at  Agylla,  where  the  rock  is  of  tufo; 
there  are  no  traces  of  polygonal  construction  ;  even  in  the  most 
ancient  tombs  the  masomy  is  rectangular.^  Yet,  in  spite  of  these 
natural  inducements  to  the  contrary,  the  favourite  style  was  some- 
times carried  out,  as  is  proved  by  the  tholiis  of  polygonal  con- 
struction at  Volterra,  formed  of  travertine  ;  -  and  b}^  the  polygonal 
walls  of  Saturnia  of  the  same  material — a  stone  of  decidedly 
horizontal  cleavage,  and  used  abundantly  in  regular  masonry  in 
all  ages,  from  the  Etruscan  walls  of  Clusium  and  Perusia,  and 
the  Greek  temples  of  Psestum,  to  the  Coliseum,  St.  Peter's,  and. 
the  palaces  of  modern  Piome.  This  is  also  proved  by  the  traver- 
tine and  crag  in  the  polygonal  walls  of  Pyrgi,^  and  by  the  crag  in 
the  similar  fortifications  of  Orbetello ;  ^  and  even  these  walls  of 
Cosa  afford  abundant  proof  that  the  builders  were  not  the  slaves 
of  their  materials,  but  exerted  a  free  choice  in  the  adoption  of 
style ;  for  the  same  stone  which  was  hewn  into  horizontal  masonry 
in  the  towers,  gateways,  and  upper  courses,  could  have  been 
thrown  into  the  same  forms  throughout,  had  not  the  builders 
been  influenced  by  some  other  motive  than  the  natural  cleavage. 
A  singular  instance  of  disregard  of  cleavage  is  exhibited  in  the 
walls    of  Empulum,   now    Ampiglione,   near    Tivoli,   where    the 

coverics  of  very  extensive  polygonal  remains  were  Pelasgic,   we  find  regular,  parallelo- 

have  recently  been  ma'le  in  that  part  of  piped  masonry  ;  at  Pyrgi  and  Saturnia,  on 

Italy.     That  no  such  walls  arc  to  be  found  the    contrary,    whose    Pelasgic    origin    i.s 

on  the  ancient  sites  at  the  head  of  the  equally  well  attested,  we  have  remains  of 

Adriatic,  where  the  Pelasgi  first  landed  in  purely  polygonal  construction. 

Italy,  may  be  explained  by  the  nature  of  •  yd.  I.  p.  237. 

tlie    low    swampy    coast,    wiiich    did   not  "Tt  supra,  \).  154. 

furnish  the  necessary  materials.  •*  Vol.  I.  p.  291. 

"  At  Falcrii,  Agylla,  and  Cortona,  whidi  ■*   Ut  supra,  p.  241. 

.s  2 


260  COSA.  [CHAP.  L. 

masonry,  though  of  tufo,  is  decidedly  polygonal ;  this  is  the  only 
instance  known  of  that  volcanic  rock  heing  thrown  into  any  other 
than  the  rectangular  forms  it  naturally  assumes."'  These  facts 
Mill  suffice  to  overthrow  the  doctrine  of  a  constructive  )iecessity, 
often  applied  to  this  polygonal  masonry. 

With  respect  to  Cosa,  there  is  no  reason  whatever  for  regarding 
its  walls  as  of  Roman  construction.  There  is  nothing  which 
marks  them  as  more  recent  than  any  other  ancient  fortifications 
in  Italy  of  similar  masonry.  The  resemblance  of  the  gateways 
to  those  of  "S'olterra,  and  the  absence  of  the  arch,  point  to  a  much 
earlier  date  than  the  establishment  of  the  Roman  colony,  oiily 
two  hundred  and  seventy-three  years  before  Christ ;  but  whether 
they  were  erected  by  the  Pelasgi,  or  by  the  Etruscans  copying 
the  masonry  of  their  predecessors,  is  open  to  doubt.  As  the  walls 
of  Pyi'gi  ^^^^^  Saturnia,  known  Pelasgic  sites,  were  of  the  same 
polygonal  construction,  it  is  no  unfair  inference  that  these  of 
Cosa,  which  has  relation  to  the  one  by  proximity,  to  the  other  by 
situation  on  the  coast,  are  of  a  like  origin.  The  high  antiquity 
of  Cosa  is  indeed  attested  by  Virgil,  when  he  represents  it,  with 
other  very  ancient  towns  of  Etruria,  sending  assistance  to  .Eneas.^ 
Some,  however,  have  inferred  from  Pliny's  expression — Cossco 
Volcientium — that  it  was  a  mere  colony  of  A'ulci,  and  one  of 
the  latest  of  Etruscan  cities  ;  ~  but  Xiebuhr  with  more  probability' 

^  See  Gell's  Eome,  v.  Eminilum.  names  of  "Cusis"or  "Cusim,"  "Cusinei," 
6  Yirg.  ^n.  X.  16S  ;  Serv.  inloc.  Miiller  "Ciisitliia."— Lanzi,  II.  pp.  371,  402,  416  ; 
(Etrusk.  I.  3,  1)  remarks  that  the  •nails  of  Vermigl.  Iscriz.  Perug.  I.  p.  324.  '  Cusiach" 
Cosa  are  by  no  means  to  be  regarded  as  also  at  Cervetri,  wliicli  would  mean  "from 
not  Etruscan,  because  they  are  polygonal,  Cosa"  (Vol.  I.,  page  234),  and  "Ciisu"  at 
and  considers  them  as  evidence  of  its  an-  Cortona.  See  Chap.  LX.  p.  408. 
tiquity  (II.  1,  2).  Orioli  (ap.  Inghir.  Mon.  7  pijn.  m.  8.  Cluver  (II.  p.  515), 
Etrus.  IV.  p.  161)  also  thinks  the  walls  of  Lanzi  (II.  p.  5G),  I^Iicali  (Ant.  Pop.  Ital. 
Cosa  confirm  the  antiquity  assigned  to  it  I.  p.  147),  and  Cramer  (I.  p.  195),  inter- 
by  Virgil.  Abeken  (Jlittelital.  p.  21)  takes  pret  Pliny  as  saj-ing  that  Cosa  was  a  colony 
Cosa  to  be  Pelasgic  ;  and  Gerhard  incUnes  of  Yulci.  But  the  expression  he  uses  is 
to  the  same  opinion  (Ann.  lust.,  1831,  p.  shown  by  Gerhard  to  have  indicated  merely 
205),  and  reminds  us  that  there  « as  a  city  the  territory  in  which  a  toAvn  stood,  with- 
o£  the  same  name  in  Thrace.  He  thinks  out  reference  to  its  origin  :  as  "  Alba 
the  name  may  have  an  affinity  to  the  Doric  Slarsorum  "  signified  the  Latin  colony  of 
Kdrra,  /co55d,  a  head.  It  is  \n-itten  Cossae  Alba  in  the  land  of  the  !Marsi.  Ann.  Inst, 
by  Strabo  and  Ptolemy,  but  Cluver  (II.  p.  1829,  p.  200.  l^lr.  Bunburr  (Classical 
479)  thinks  this  was  merely  owing  to  the  Museum,  V.  p.  180)  argues  that  as  Vulci 
habit  of  the  Greeks  of  doubling  the  s  in  itself  did  not  begin  to  flourish  till  after  the 
the  middle  of  a  word.  It  is  not  written  decline  of  Tarquinii,  for  which  he  cites 
so  by  any  Roman  author  but  Pliny,  though  Gerhard's  authority  (Ann.  Inst.  1831,  p. 
Virgil  gives  it  a  plural  termination.  If  101),  Cosa,  its  colony  or  oflset,  mu.st  needs 
the  Etruscan  name  were  analogous  it  must  belong  to  a  late  period.  But — the  question 
liave  been  si>elt  with  an  u — Ccsa.  We  of  the  colony  apart — that  Yuki  was  of  so 
find   in  Etruscan  inscriptions  the  proper  recent  a   date  is  wholly   unsupported   by 


CHAP.  L.]   HIGH    ANTIQUITY    OF    COSA    AXD    ITS    WALLS.      2G1 

considered  that  the  original  inhabitants  of  Cosa  were  not  Etrus- 
cans, but  an  earlier  race  ■who  had  maintained  their  ground 
against  tliat  people.^  The  connection  indeed  between  Yulci  or 
A'"olci,.and  A\)lsci,  is  obvious,  and  from  the  fact  that  at  one  time 
the  Etruscans  possessed  the  land  of  the  Volsci,  it  would  seem 
that  this  connection  was  not  one  of  name  merely.'^  But  the  Volsci 
were  of  Opican  or  Oscan  race,  and  wliat  affinity  existed  between 
them  and  the  Pelasgi  is  doubtful;  wlu^tlier  an  affinity  of  origin, 
or  one  arising  merely  from  the  occupation  of  the  same  territory  at 
dift'erent  epochs.  Confusion  of  names  and  races  on  such  grounds 
is  common  enough  in  the  records  of  early  Italy,  As  the 
Etruscans  were  frcipiently  confounded  with  their  predecessors 
the  Tyrrhenes,  so  the  Volsci  may  have  been  with  the  Pelasgi.^ 
It  is  well  known  that  walls  precisely  simiLar  to  these  of  Cosa 
abound  in  the  territory  of  the  Volsci,  but  whether  erected  by  the 
Pelasgi,  by  the  Volsci  tliemselves,  or  by  their  Roman  conquerors, 
is  still  matter  of  dispute  ;  yet  by  none  are  the}'  assigned  to  a 
hvter  (hitc  than  the  reign  of  Tarquinius  Superbus,  two  centuries 
and  a  half  before  the  Roman  colonization  of  Cosa,  which  was  in 
the  year  481.-  I  repeat  that  there  is  no  solid  ground  whatever 
for  ascribing  these  polygonal  walls  of  Cosa  to  so  recent  a  period. 
With  just  as  much  propriety  might   the   massive  fortifications  of 


liistoric  evidence,   nay,  is  refuted  by  the  seems  connected  with   Cosa,   the  s  and   r 

very  archaic  character  of  much  of  the  fur-  being  frequently  interchangeable.    That  the 

niture    of    its    sepulchres.      And    Miiller  Yulturnus  on  which  Caiiua  stood  had  an 

(Etriisk.  II.  1,  2)  justlj' observes  that  Pliny's  Etruscan   name    needs    no   proof.     CaiJua 

mention  of  Cosa  does  not  prove  that  before  itself  is  analogous  to  Capena  (Vol.  I.  p.  126); 

it  was  colonised  by  the  Romans  the  town  so  is  Falerii  to  Falernus,  whose  last  syllable 

had  no  existence.  is  merely  the  ancient  adjectival  termination. 

'^  Niebuhr,  I.  p.  120  ;  of.    p.   70.      He  Alatrium  seems  identical  with  Velathri,  by 

founds  this  opinion  on  the  mention  by  Li\'y  the    dropping    of   the    digamma  ;    so   also 

(XXVII.  15)  of  a  people  called  Volcentes,  Jisula  with  Fiesulse..    Further  instances  of 

in  connection  with  the  Hirpini  and  Lucani,  such  analogies  might  be  cited, 
whom  he  takes  to  be  of  the  same  race  as  ^  The    names,    indeed,    bear   a   strong 

the  Volsci.  affinity,     ^'iebuhr  (I.  p.  72)  points  out  the 

"  Cato,  ap.  Serv.  ad  ^n.  XI.  567.  The  analogy  between  the  names  Volsci  and 
connection  between  the  Etruscans  and  the  Falisci ;  the  latter  people,  he  thinks,  were 
Cistiberine  people,  especially  the  Oscan  ^qui,  but  they  are  called  in  history- 
races,  is  very  apparent  from  the  names  of  Pelasgi  ;  and  the  similarity  of  the  words 
places.  Velathri  (Volterra)  has  its  counter-  Falisci  and  Pelasgi  is  also  striking.  Vol.  I. 
part    in    Velitrie    (Velletri) — Fregenm   in  p.  107. 

Fregellre — Perusia  in  Frusinum — Sutrium  -  Val.   Paterc.   I.  14  ;  Li  v.  Epit.  XIV.  ; 

in  Satricum.    A  Ferentinum  and  an  Artena  Cicero  (in  Verr.  VI.  61)  speaks  of  Cosa  as 

existe<l  in  both  lands ;  so  also  a  river  Clanis.  a  inunlcipiuin.     (xerhard  suggests  that  she 

Tiiere  was  a  Compsa  in   Samnium,  and  a  may  have  been  colonised  with  the  remains 

Cossa  in  Lucania,  as  well  as  a  river  Cosa  of   the  jiopulation   of   Vulci.     Ann.    Inst. 

iu  the  land  of  the  Hernici ;  and  Cora  also  1831,  p.  104. 


262  COSA.  [CHAP.  L. 

Paestum,  wliicli  was  colonised  iii  the  same  year,  be  referred  to  the 
Pi  o  mans.' 

Beyond  the  mention  made  by  ^'irgil,  which  can  only  be  re- 
ceived as  evidence  of  her  high  antiqnity,  we  have  no  record  of 
Cosa  in  the  days  of  Etrnscan  independence.  She  probably  fell 
under  the  Ptoman  yoke  at  the  same  time  as  Vulci — on  or  soon 
after  [the  year  474  (b.c.  280).^  Her  fidelity  during  the  Second 
Punic  War,  when  with  seventeen  other  colonies  she  came  fonvard 
and  saved  the  Piepublic,  at  a  time  when  Sutrium,  Xepete,  and 
other  colonies  refused  their  aid,  is  highly  commended  by  Livy.'' 
At  what  period  the  city  was  deserted,  and  fell  into  the  utter  ruin 
which  was  witnessed  by  Piutilius  at  the  commencement  of  the 
fifth  century  after  Christ,  we  know  not :  *'  we  only  learn  from  the 
same  poet  the  traditional  cause  of  such  desolation,  with  needless 
apologies  for  its  absurdity.  The  mountain  labom-ed  and  brought 
forth,  not  one  "  ridiculous  mouse,"  but  so  many  as  to  drive  the 
citizens  from  their  fire-sides — 

Ridiculam  cladis  pudet  inter  seria  causam 

Promere,  sed  risum  dissimiilare  piget. 
Dicuntur  cives  quondam  migrare  coacti 

!Muribus  inf  estos  deseruisse  lares. 
Credere  maluerim  pjgmeje  damna  coliortis, 

Et  conjuratas  in  sua  bella  grues. 

^  If  the  Romans  bad  anv  hand  in  the  hov\-ever,  prove  the  city  to  have  lueen  in 
construction  of  these  walls,  it  must  have  existence  in  the  middle  of  the  thii-d  cen- 
been  in  the  upper  courses  alone,  which  tury  of  our  era.  Ilei)etti,  I.  p.  828 ; 
differ  widely  from  the  lower,  though  the  Eeines.  III.  37,  cited  by  Midler,  I.  p.  348. 
material  is  the  same  throughout.  It  is  There  are  certain  coins — with  the  head 
possible  they  may  have  thus  repaired  the  of  itars  on  the  obverse,  and  a  horse's  head 
walls.  But  if  Virgil's  testimony  as  to  the  bridled,  and  the  legend  Cosaso  or  Coza  on 
antiquity  of  Cosa  be  admitted — and  who  the  reverse — which  have  been  attributed 
can  reject  it  ' — the  Romans  cannot  have  to  Cosa.  Lanzi,  II.  pp.  24.  58  ;  ilionnet, 
built  them  entirely,  or  what  has  become  of  iled.  Ant.  I.  p.  97  ;  Suppl.  I.  p.  197. 
the  prior  fortifications  ?  It  is  hardly  ere-  Lanzi  infers  from  the  type  an  analogy  with 
dible  that  at  so  early  a  period  they  coidd  Census,  an  equestrian  name  of  Xeptune, 
have  been  rased  to  the  foundations,  so  as  whence  the  public  games  of  the  Consualia 
not  to  leave  a  vestige.  (Tertul.  de  Spect.  c.  5),  and  thinks  Cosa 
*  Vol.  I.  p.  445.  to  a  Roman  must  have  been  equivalent  to 
5  Liv.  XXVII.  9,  10.  She  is  subse-  Posidonia  to  a  Greek.  Miiller  (Etrusk.  I. 
quently  mentioned  in  Roman  history.  Liv.  p.  340),  who  does  not  ascribe  these  coins 
XXXIl.  2  ;  XXXIII.  24  ;  Ciesar,  Bell.  to  Cosa,  shows  that  they  cannot  in  any 
Civ.  I.  34 ;  Cicero,  ad  Attic.  IX.  11.  ca.se  belong  to  the  times  of  the  Etruscans, 
Tacitus  (Annal.  II.  39)  speaks  of  Cosa  as  because  that  people  had  no  0  in  their  lan- 
"a  promontory  of  Etruria."  The  Em-  guage.  Cramer  (I.  p.  195)  refers  them  to 
peror  Vespasian  was  brought  up  in  its  Compsa  in  Samnium  ;  and  so  also  Mil- 
neighbourhood  (Sueton.  Vespas.  c.  2);  lingen  (Numis.  Anc.  Italic,  p.  170);  but 
though  Repetti  (I.  p.  829)  tlunks  the  Cossa  Sestini  (Geog.  Numis.  II.  p.  4)  to  Cossea, 
of  the  Hirpini  is  here  referred  to.  a  city  of  Thrace. 
Rutil.   I.   285,    et  seq.     Inscriptions, 


CHAPTER    LL 

VETULONIA. 

The  deep  fouiulatioiis  tliat  we  lay 
Time  ijlouglis  tliein  up,  ami  not  a  trace  remains. 
We  build  witli  what  %\e  deem  eternal  rock — 
A  distant  age  asks  where  the  fabric  stood.  — Cowper. 

Mteoniajque  decus  quondam  Vetulonia  gentis. — Sil.  Italicus. 

Ix  former  chapters  I  have  spoken  of  the  ancient  city  of  Vetu- 
lonia, and  of  various  sites  that  have  heen  assigned  to  it ;  and 
have  shown  that  all  of  them  are  far  from  satisfactory'.^  In  the 
course  of  my  wanderings  through  the  Tuscan  Maremma  in  the 
spring  of  1844,  I  had  the  fortune  to  fall  in  with  a  site,  which,  in 
my  opinion,  has  stronger  claims  to  be  considered  that  of  Vetulonia 
than  any  of  those  to  which  that  city  has  hitherto  been  referred. 

Vague  rumours  had  reached  my  ear  of  Etruscan  antiquities 
having  been  discovered  near  Magiiano,  a  village  between  the  Osa 
and  the  Albegna,  and  about  eight  miles  inland  ;  but  I  imagined 
it  was  nothing  beyond  the  excavation  of  tombs,  so  commonl}' 
made  at  this  season  throughout  Etruria.  I  resolved,  however,  to 
visit  this  place  on  my  way  from  Orbetello  to  Saturnia.  For  a 
few  miles  I  retraced  my  steps  towards  Telamone,  then,  turning 
to  the  right,  crossed  the  Albegna  some  miles  higher  up,  at  a  ferry 
called  Barca  del  (xrassi ;  from  this  spot  there  was  no  carriage- 
road  to  Magiiano,  and  my  vehicle  toiled  the  intervening  five  miles 
through  tracks  sodden  with  the  rain. 

'  It  may  be  well  to  restate  the  various  Ennolao  Barbaro,   the   earliest  wTiter   on 

sites  where  Vetulonia  has  been  supposed  to  the   subject,    places   it  at   Orbetello   (see 

have  stood.     At  or  near  Viterbo  (Vol.  I.  p.  Dempster,  II.  p.  56).     I  should  state  that 

151)— on  the  site  of  Vulci  (Vol.  I.  p.  446)  when  Mannert  (Geog.  p.  358)  asserts  that 

— on  the  hill  of  Oastiglione  Bernardi,  near  the  village  of  Badiola  on  an  eminence  by 

Monte    Kotonclo    (ut   supra,    i).    196) — at  the  river  Oornia,   and  a  geograpliical  mile- 

Miissa  Marittima,   or  live  miles  westward  and-a-half  (about  six  miles  English)  from 

from  that   town    (p.    198) — below    Monte  the    coast,    preserves   the  memory  of   the 

Calvi,  three  miles  from  the  sea,  buried  in  ancient  city,  he  evidently  refei-s  to  the  site 

a  dense  wood  (p.  206) — at  Castagneto  {]>.  five  miles  west  of  Massa. 
202) — and  at  Colonna  di  Buriano  (p.  223). 


264  VETULONIA.  [chap.  li. 

Magliiino  is  a  squalid,  iniikss  village,  of  three  liuiidrcd  souls, 
at  the  foot  of  a  media* val  castle  in  picturesque  ruin.~  On 
making  inijuiries  here  I  was  referred  to  an  engineer,  Signer 
Tommaso  Pasquinelli,  then  forming  a  road  from  ^Magliano  to  the 
Saline  at  the  mouth  of  the  Albegna.  I  found  this  gentleman  at 
a  convent  in  the  village,  amid  a  circle  of  venerable  monks,  whose 
beards  far  outshone  the  refectory  table-cloth,  in  whiteness.  I  was 
delighted  to  learn  that  it  was  he  who  had  nuide  the  rumoured 
discovery  in  this  neighbourhood,  and  that  it  was  not  of  tombs 
merely,  but  of  a  city  of  great  size.  The  mode  in  which  this  was 
brought  to  light  was  singular  enough.  Nothing  was  visible 
above  ground — not  a  fragment  of  ruin  to  indicate  prior  habita- 
tion ;  so  that  it  was  only  by  extraordinary  means  he  was  made 
aware  that  here  a  city  had  stood.  The  ground  through  which  his 
road  had  to  run  being  for  the  most  part  low  and  swampy,  and 
the  higher  land  being  a  soft  friable  tufo,  he  was  at  a  loss  for  the 
materials  he  wanted,  till  he  chanced  to  uncover  some  large 
blocks,  buried  beneath  the  surface,  which  he  recognized  as  the 
foundations  of  an  ancient  wall.  These  he  found  to  continue  in 
an  unbroken  line,  which  he  followed  out,  breaking  up  the  blocks 
as  he  unearthed  them,  till  he  had  traced  out  the  periphery  of  a 
city.3 

With  the  genuine  politeness  of  Tuscany,  that  "rare  land  of 
courtesy,"  as  Coleridge  terms  it,  he  proposed  at  once  to  accom- 
pany me  to  the  site.  It  was  the  first  opportunity  he  had  had  of 
doing  the  honours  of  his  city,  for  though  the  discovery  had  been 
made  in  May,  1842,  and  he  had  communicated  the  fact  to  his 
friends,  the  intelligence  had  not  spread,  save  in  vague  distorted 
rumours,  and  no  antiquary  had  visited  the  spot.  News  always 
travels  on  foot  in  Italy,  and  generally  falls  dead  lame  on  the  road. 
I  had  heard  from  the  antiquaries  of  Florence,  that  something,  no 
one  knew  what,  had  been  found  hereabouts.  One  thought  it  was 
tombs  ;  another  had  heard  it  was  gold  roba :  another  was  in  utter 


"  Magliano   docs  not  appear   to  be  an  lying  between  3  and  4  miles  inland,  and  a.s 

ancient  site  ;  yet  like  all  other  places  of  being  about   2\  miles   in   circuit,    would 

this  name  in  Italy  it  probably  derives  its  make  it  appear  that  he  was  speaking  of 

name  from  the  f/enti  Manlia,    and  must  some  other  site.    Bull.  Inst.   1851,  p.  <>. 

have  been  anciently  called  j\[aulianum.  Yet  his  mention  of  it  as  situated  on  the 

•*  Signor  Alessandro  Fran9ois  lays  claim  spot    called    La   Doganella,    between    the 

to   the   discovery  of  this  ancient    city   in  rivers  Osa  and  Albegna,  leaves  not  a  doubt 

1824,  when  the  walls  were  in  parts  visible  as  to  its  identity  with  the  city  whose  walls 

above  the  surface,  and  he  took  it  for  the  were  unearthed  by  Pasquinelli  in  1842. 
site  of  Telamon.     His  description  of  it,  as 


<;hap.  LI.]        DISCOVERY    OF    AN    ETRUSCAN    CITY.  2G5 

ignorance  of  this  site,  but  liad  heard  of  a  city  having  been  dis- 
•covered  on  ^Nlonte  Catini,  to  the  west  of  Volterra. 

The  city  hiy  between  Magliano  and  the  sea,  about  six  and  a 
quarter  miles  from  the  shore,  on  a  hiw  table-land,  just  wliere  the 
g;round  begins  to  rise  above  the  marshy  plains  of  the  coast.  Tn 
length,  according  to  Signor  Pasquinelli,  it  was  somewhat  less 
than  a  mile  and  a  half,  and  scarcely  a  mile  in  breadth  ;  but 
taking  into  account  its  quadrilateral  form,  it  must  have  had  a 
circuit  of  at  least  four  miles  and  a  half.'^  On  the  south-east  it 
was  bounded  b}-  the  streamlet  Patrignone,  whose  banlcs  rise  in 
cliflFs  of  no  great  height ;  but  on  ever}'  other  side  the  table-land 
sinks  in  a  gentle  slope  to  the  plain.  At  the  south-western 
extremit}',  near  a  house  called  La  Doganella,  the  only  habitation 
on  the  site,  was  found  a  smaller  and  inner  circuit  of  wall ;  and 
this,  being  also  the  highest  part  of  the  table-land,  was  thus 
marked  out  as  the  site  of  the  Arx. 

Though  scarcely  a  vestige  remained  of  the  walls,  and  no  ruins 
rose  above  the  surface,  I  had  not  much  difficulty  in  recognising 
tlie  site  as  Etruscan.  The  soil  was  thickly  strewn  with  broken 
pottery,  that  infallible  and  ineflfaceable  indicator  of  bygone  habi- 
tation ;  and  here  it  was  of  that  character  found  on  purely 
Etruscan  sites,  without  any  admixture  of  marbles,  or  fragments 
of  verd-antique,  porpln-ry,  and  otlier  valuable  stones,  which  mark 
the  former  seats  of  Pioman  luxury.  Though  the  walls,  or  rather 
their  foundations,  had  been  almost  entirely  destroyed  since  the 
first  discovery,  a  few  blocks  remained  yet  entire,  and  established 
the  Etruscan  character  of  the  citj'.  Erom  these  little  or  nothing 
could  be  ascertained  as  to  the  stjde  of  masonry  ;  but  the  blocks 
themselves  were  indicative  of  an  Etruscan  origin — some  being  of 
mac'Kjno,  resembling  those  of  Populonia  in  their  size  and  rude 
•shapmg;  others  of  tufo,  or  of  the  soft  local  rock,  like  that  of 
Corneto,  agreeing  in  size  and  form  with  the  usual  blocks  of  this 
material  found  on  Etruscan  sites.      Some  of  the  former  had  been 

*  Tills  account  differs  from  tiiat  I  lieard  the  Osa.  "A  distanza  di  circa  ^ijoOO  tese 
■on  the  spot,  and  which  I  have  elsewhere  Inglesi  dal  mare,  1,600  dal  fiume  Albegna, 
given  to  the  worhl  :— viz.,  that  the  circuit  2,500  dal  torrente  Osa,  e  2,900  dal  paese 
was  not  less  than  six  miles.  I  have  since  di  i^Iagliano,  sotto  la  suijerfice  della  cam- 
received  more  accurate  details  from  Siguor  pagna,  senza  nessun  vestigio  apparente, 
Pa.squinelli,  who  says  that  the  city  was  esistevauo  da  secoli  .sepolti  gli  avanzi  di 
2-100  English  yards  in  lenj,th,  by  1(500  in  numerose  t'abhriche,  alcune  delle  quali  ella 
width.  He  also  states  that  a  certain  spot  pote  vedere  in  detta  circostanza,  cu-:o- 
in  the  city  wa.s  about  11,000  English  yards  scritte  entro  un  recinto  quadrilatero  di 
from  the  sea,  .'i,S00  from  Magliano,  3,200  mura  rovinate,  lungo  circa  1,200  tese, 
from  the  river  Albegna.  and  5.000  from  larKo  800." 


266  YETULONIA.  [chap.  li. 

found  nine  or  ten  feet  in  length.  But  the  blocks  were  not 
generally  of  large  dimensions,  though  always  without  cement. 
On  one  sjjot,  where  a  portion  of  the  walls  had  been  uncovered,  at 
tlie  verge  of  a  hollow,  a  sewer  opening  in  them  was  disclosed. 

Within  the  walls  a  road  or  street  had  been  traced  by  the 
foundations  of  the  houses  on  either  hand.  Many  things  had 
been  dug  up,  but  no  statues,  or  marble  colunnis,  as  on  lioman 
sites — chietiy  articles  of  bronze  or  pottery."  1  myself  saw  a 
piece  of  bronze  drawn  from  the  soil,  many  feet  below  the  surface, 
which  i)roved  to  be  a  packing-needle,  ten  inches  in  length,  with 
eye  and  point  uninjured  !  It  must  have  served  some  worth}' 
Etruscan,  either  in  preparing  for  his  travels,  perhaps  to  the 
Fanum  Voltumnie,  the  parliament  of  Lucumones,  perhaps  for 
the  fjrand  tour,  such  as  Herodotus  made,  which  is  pi'etty  nearly 
the  grand  tour  still ;  or,  it  may  be,  in  shijiping  his  goods  to 
foreign  lands  from  the  neighbouring  port  of  Telamon.  This 
venerable  needle  is  now  in  mv  possession. 

AVhile  it  is  to  be  lamented  that  to  future  travellers  scarcely  a 
trace  of  this  city  Avill  be  visible,  it  must  be  remembered,  that  but 
for  the  peculiar  exigencies  of  the  engineer,  which  led  to  the 
destruction  of  its  walls,  we  should  have  remained  in  ignorance  of 
its  existence.  Other  accidents  might  have  led  to  the  uncovering 
of  a  portion  of  the  wall ;  but  it  is  difficult  to  conceive  that  any 
other  cause  could  have  brought  about  the  excavation  of  the 
entire  circuit,  and  the  consequent  determination  of  the  precise 
Imiits  of  the  city.  So  that  in  spite  of  the  wholesale  macadamisa- 
tion,  the  Avorld  is  greatly  indebted  to  the  gentleman  who  made 
the  discovery.^ 

Outside  the  walls  to  the  north  were  many  tumuli,  originalh' 
encircled  with  masonry,  which  had  been  broken  up  for  the  road. 
Some  were  twenty-five  or  thii'ty  feet  in  diameter.  On  this  side 
also,  i.  e.,  towards  Magliano,   I  saw  some  Roman  remains — the 

*  Among  the  latter  Avas  a  huge  pot,  one  owner,    because    Signer  Pasquinelli   coui- 

metre  in  diameter,  and  not  much  less  in  jjlains  of  not  having  received  justice  from 

height,   of  rough  red  ware,   with  its  rim  a  person,  named  Salvagnoli,  to  whom  he 

covered  with  lead,  clamped  into  it  with  committed  for  puhlication  a  plan  he  had 

spikes  ;    the  lead  alone   weighed   27  lbs.  made  of  the  city  and  its  environs,  draw- 

This  pot  was  found  full  of  burnt  niattei-.  ings  of  the  paintings  in  the  tombs,   and 

The  bronzes   consisted    of  fibula,    lances,  many  other  particulars,  and  who  has  since 

javelins,  nails,  and  little  figures  of  deities  jiublicly  claimed  the  honour  of  the  dis- 

or  lares ;  some  of  decidedly  Etruscan  cha-  covery    for    himself.     Nor    does    Kepetti 

racter,  (Suppl.  p.  133),  who  mentions  the  fact  of 

''  I  am  the  more  desirous  of  referring  the  discovery  on  the  occasion  of  forming 

the  merit  of  this  discoveiy  to  its  rightful  tiie  road,  record  the  name  of  the  engineer. 


CHAP.  LI.)  THE    NECROPOLIS    OF    THIS    CITY.  2G7 

bases  of  small  Doric  columns ;  and  the  site  of  Baths,  where 
mosaic  pavement  and  many  coins  of  the  Empire,  silver  and 
copper,  had  been  found,  was  also  pointed  out  to  me.  On  the 
high  grounds  to  the  south-east,  I  heard  that  many  tombs  had 
been  opened,  undoubtedly  Etruscan  in  character  and  contents. 
They  were  not  excavated  in  cliffs,  but  sunk  beneath  the  surface, 
as  at  Volterra  and  Vulci,  and  w^ere  generally  surrounded  by  rock- 
hewn  benches,  hollowed  for  the  reception  of  bodies.  Others 
were  mere  holes  in  the  earth,  large  enough  to  contain  a  single 
corpse,  and  lined  with  rude  masonry.  Interment,  indeed,  from 
what  I  could  learn,  appears  to  have  been  general  in  this  necro- 
polis. They  had  all  been  rifled  of  old  of  their  most  valuable 
funiitm'e,  though  some  still  contained  potter}'  of  hucchero,  others 
a  few  painted  vases ;  and  the  bronzes  were  mostly  in  good 
archaic  style. ^  At  Magiiano  I  saw  many  articles  found  in  these 
tombs — a  lion  of  pcperino,  about  a  foot  long — a  small  sphinx — 
Egyptian-like  figures — a  little  bronze  idol,  with  sickle  in  his 
hand — and  sundry  other  articles  in  sculpture,  pottery,  and 
bronze,  which  my  experience  enabled  me  to  pronounce  indubitabl}' 
Etruscan,  and  chiefly  of  archaic  character.  I  saw  no  figured 
pottery,  but  much  of  the  common  black  ware  ;  and  I  was  told 
that  the  tall  black  vases  with  relieved  decorations,  so  abundant 
at  Chiusi  and  its  neighbourhood,  had  been  discovered  here. 
Scarabei  of  cornelian  had  also  been  brought  to  light. 

I  learned,  moreover,  that  several  painted  tombs  had  been 
opened  in  this  neighbourhood,  on  the  heights  between  Magiiano 
and  the  Albegna.  I  could  not  see  them,  as  they  had  been 
reclosed  with  earth  ;  but  of  one  I  received  a  description  from 
Signer  Pasquinelli,  avIio  had  copied  its  paintings.  It  was  a 
square  chamber,  divided  into  two  by  a  wall  hewn  from  the  rock, 
on  each  face  of  which  figures  were  painted.  One  was  an  archer 
on  horseback,  drawing  his  bow  ;  another  was  a  centaur  ^\ith  a 
long  black  beard,  wings  open  and  raised,  and  a  tail  termimiting 
in  a  serpent's  head;  beside  wliicli  there  were  dolphins,  and 
flowers,  and  "serpents  with  hawks'  heads;"  as  they  were  de- 
scribed to  me — probably  dragons.'^     The  existence  of  Etruscan 


^  Such  was  the  result  of  the  excavations  and  is  described  as  having  two  chaoihei-s 

made  here  by  Frangois  (Bull.  Inst.  1851,  with   chimerical    figures    in    monochroms, 

p.  6),   and   hy  Dun   Luigi  Dei   of  Chiusi,  red,    green,    and    sky-blue    (Bull.    Instit. 

some  j'ears  later.  1840,  p.  147).     The  same  isaUo  described 

**  It  must  lie  this  tomb  which  was  ojiened  by  an  eye-witness  (Bull.  Inst.  1841,  ]).  22), 

by  Don  Luigi  Dei,  of  Chiusi,  iu  18o5  or  G,  with  more  minuteness  as  to  the  chamber. 


268  AT^TULOXLA..  [chap.  li. 

tombs  in  this  neighbourhood  has,  indeed,  been  known  for  many 
years,  and  excavators  have  even  come  hither  from  Chiusi  on 
specuhition  ;  but  tombs  are  of  such  frequent  occurrence  in  this 
L\nd,  that  the  existence  of  an  Etruscan  town  or  city  near  at  hand, 
though  necessarily  inferred,  Avas  not  ascertained,  and  no  re- 
searches were  made  for  its  site.^  To  those,  however,  who  know 
Italy,  it  will  be  no  matter  of  surprise  that  the  existence  of  this 
oitv  should  have  been  so  long  forgotten.  Had  there  even  been 
ruins  of  walls  or  temples  on  the  site,  such  things  are  too  abun- 
dant in  that  land  to  attract  particular  attention ;  and  generation 
after  generation  of  peasants  might  fold  their  flocks  or  stall  their 
cattle  amid  the  crumbhng  ruins,  and  the  world  at  large  remain  in 
ignorance  of  their  existence.  Thus  it  was  with  Paestum  ;  though 
its  ruins  are  so  stupendous  and  prominent,  it  was  unknown  to 
the  antiquary  till  the  last  century.  Can  we  wonder,  then,  that 
in  the  Tuscan  Maremma,  not  better  populated  or  more  fre- 
<|uented,  because  not  more  healthy,  than  the  Campanian  shore,  a 
cit}'  should  have  been  lost  sight  of,  which  had  no  walls  or  ruins 
above  ground,  and  no  vestige  but  broken  pottery,  which  tells  no 
tale  to  the  simple  peasant  ? — a  city 

"  Of  which  there  now  remaines  no  memorie. 
Nor  anie  little  moniment  to  see. 
By  which  the  travailer,  that  fares  that  way, 
This  once  was  she,  may  warned  be  to  say." 

As  I  stood  on  this  ancient  site,  and  perceived  the  sea  so  near 
at  hand,  and  the  Bay  of  Telamone  but  a  few  miles  ofi",  I  ex- 
claimed, "  This  must  have  been  a  maritime  city,  and  Telamon 
was  its  port !  "  The  connection  between  them  was  obvious. 
The  distance  is  scarcely  more  than  between  Tarquinii  and  her 
port  of  Graviscse,  and  between  Caere  and  the  sen.  There  is  even 
reason  to  believe  that  the  distance  was  much  less,  for  Signor 
Francois  found  pvDof  that  the  port  of  Telamon  had  originall}' 

hut  no  further  details  of  the  paintings.  fragments    of    Roman    inscriptions,    bas- 

He  says  this  tomb  is  about  one  mile  only  reliefs,    and    other  works    of    sculptural 

from  JIagliano.  adornment    in   the   local   travertine,    had 

'•'  Before  Pivsquinelli's  discovery   it  had  been  at  various  times  brought  to  light  in 

been  suggested   that  the  Etruscan  city  of  the  district  of  Magliano,  and  especially  on 

Caletra  stood  .somewhere  in  the  neighbour-  a  lofty  hill   between  Colle   di  Lupo   and 

hood  of  Magliano.     Repetti  thought  either  Pereta,  which,  from  the  sepulchral  remains 

at  Xlontemerano,  or  more  probably  on  the  found  there,  wa.s  called  the  Tombara  (III. 

heights  of  Colle  di  Lupo,  three  miles  north-  p.  18).     On  a  hill,  a  mile  from  Magliano, 

ea.st  of  Magliano,   where  sundry  lelics  of  .stands  the  ruined  church  of  S.  I'.rizio,  of 

ancient  times  had  liecn  discovered  (V.  p.  the   low  Empire,    with    other  remains  of 

207).     He  adds  that  many  sepulchral  uras.  hi?her  antiquitv. 


c>rAi>.  LI.]  WHAT    M'AS    THIS    CITY'S    NAME  ?  269 

extended  three  miles  iidaiid.^  ^\'lieii  I  looked  n\<.o  over  tlie  low 
uuirshy  ground  which  intervened,  I  could  under.stand  why  the 
city  was  situated  so  far  inland ;  it  was  for  strength  of  position, 
for  elevation  ahove  the  unhealthy  swamps  t)f  the  coast,  and  for 
room  to  extend  its  dimensions  (id  llbitiiDi,  which  it  could  not  have 
ilone  on  the  rocky  heights  ahove  Telamone,  or  on  the  small 
conical  headland  of  Telamonaccio.  The  peculiarity  of  its  posi- 
tion on  the  first  heights  which  rise  from  the  level  of  the  swamp, 
seemed  to  me  a  sure  index  to  the  character  of  the  cit}'.  It  was 
a  compromise  between  security  and  convenience.  Had  it  not 
been  for  maritime  purposes,  and  proximity  to  the  port  of 
Telamon,  the  founders  of  this  city  could  not  have  chosen  a  site 
so  objectionable  as  this,  but  would  have  preferred  one  still  further 
inland  which  would  have  combined  the  advantages  of  more  natural 
strength  and  greater  elevation  above  the  heav,y  atmosphere  of  the 
Maremma,  in  every  age  more  or  less  insalubrious.^ 

Another  fact  Avhich  forced  itself  on  my  observation,  was  the 
analogy  of  position  with  that  of  the  earliest  settlements  on  this 
coast — with  the  Pelasgic  towns  of  Pisse,  Tarquinii,  Pyrgi,  Alsiuni, 
Agylla — a  fiict  greatly  in  favour  of  the  high  antiquity  of  the 
site. 

Here  then  was  a  city  genuinely  Etruscan  in  character,  of  first- 
rate  magnitude,  inferior  only  to  Veii,  equal  at  least  to  Yolaterne, 
probably  of  high  antiquity,  certainly  of  great  importance,  second 
to  none  in  naval  and  commercial  advantages ;  a  city,  in  short, 
which  must  have  been  one  of  the  T^velve.  Is  it  possible  it  could 
have  been  passed  over  in  silence  by  ancient  Avriters  ?  But  what 
was  its  name  ?  AVhich  of  the  still  missing  cities  of  Etruria  can 
this  have  been  ?  I  called  to  mind  the  names  of  these  outcasts — 
Caletra,  Statonia,  Sudertum,  Salpinum,  iv;c. — and  reviewed  their 
claims  to  a  site  of  such  magnitude  and  importance  ;  but  all  were 
found  wanting,  all,  save  the  most  celebrated — ^A'^etulonia  ;  which, 
after  much  consideration,  I  am  convinced  must  have  stood  on 
this  spot. 

Let  us  consider  what  has  been  said  of  that  city  by  the  ancients. 
It  is  first  mentioned  by  Dionysius  as  one  of  the  five  Etruscan 
cities  which    engaged    to   assist  the    Latins   against   Tarquinius 

'  Bull.     Inst.     1851,    i>]>.     5-7.      Sec  497.     Yet  the  soil  is  woiulerfully  fertile, 

("imp.  XLVIII.  p.  238.  aiul  presents  every  encouragement  for  cul- 

-  At   tiie   i)re.sent    clay   the   swamps  of  tivation.     A   proof    of    this    exists    in   a 

Telamone  render  Magliano  very  unhealthy  vencralile    olive-tree,    hard    by   Magliano, 

in  summer.     Repetti,   III.   p.  14;    V.  p.  which  has  a  circumference  of  thirty  feet. 


L'TO  TETULOXIA.  [chap.  li. 

Priscus.  He  states,  that  not  all  the  cities  of  Etrnria  agreed  to 
aflbrd  assistance,  but  these  five  only — Clusiura,  Arretium,  Vol- 
teiTje,  Piuselhe,  and  also  Yetnlonia.^  This,  as  already  shovn,  is 
a  strong  argument  for  regarding  each  of  these  cities  as  of  the 
Twelve,  for  second-rate,  or  dependent  towns,  could  not  have 
acted  in  opposition  to  the  rest  of  the  Confederation.*^  Silius 
Italicus  bears  testimony  to  the  antiquity  and  former  glory  of 
Vetulonia,  and  even  asserts  that  it  was  from  her  that  the  twelve 
fasces  with  their  hatchets,  and  the  other  symbols  of  power,  the 
cm'ule-chairs  of  ivory,  and  the  robes  of  Tj'rian  purple,  as  well 
as  tlie  use  of  the  brazen  trumpet  in  war,  were  all  first  derived. 

]Maionia;que  decus  quondam  Vetulonia  geutis. 
Bissenos  hajc  prima  dedit  prsecedere  fasces, 
Et  junxit  totidem  tacito  terrore  secures  ; 
Ha^c  altas  eboris  decoravit  honore  curules, 
Et  i^rinceps  TjTio  vestem  pra^texuit  ostro  ; 
Ha?c  eadem  pugnas  accendere  protulit  aere.' 

Beyond  this  Ave  find  no  mention  of  Vetulonia  except  in  the 
catalogues  of  Pliny  and  Ptolemy ;  ^  both  place  it  among  the 
"inland  colonies"  of  Etruria  ;  the  one  adds  its  latitude  and 
longitude,  and  the  other  elsewhere  states,  that  there  were  hot 
Avaters  at  Vetulonii,  in  Etruria,  not  far  from  the  sea,  and  that 
fish  lived  in  those  waters." 

Inghii'ami  laid  great  stress  on  the  latitude  and  longitude 
assigned  to  A'etulonia  by  Ptolemy,  and  even  made  them  the  basis 
of  his  researches  for  the  site  of  the  city.  By  a  comparison  of  the 
latitudes  and  longitudes  of  certain  other  toAnis  with  those  of 
Vetulonia,  he  arrived  at  the  conclusion  that  Ptolemy  meant  to 
assign  to  this  city  a  site  between  Populonia,  Volterra,  and  Siena, 
which  he  thought  might  correspond  with  his  hill  of  Castiglion 

•*  Dion.  Hal.  III.  c.  51.  (II.  p.  473)  and  othei-s  have  supposed  the 

■*  This  is  the  opinion  of  Cluver  (II.  ji.  "  Yelinis"  of  the  Peutingerian  Tal)le  to  be 

473),  and   of   Jliiller  (Etrus.    (II.   1,   2).  a  coiTuption  of  "  Yetulonis ;  "  but  there  is 

^lannert  (Geog.  p.  35S)  also  took  Vetulonia  no  solid  ground  for  this  opinion. 

for  one  of  the  Twelve.     Vetulonia  has  even  Dionysius    (II.    c.     37)    speaks    of    an 

been  supposed  the  metropolis  of  Etraria  Etruscan  city  called  Solonium,   whence  a 

(Ann.  Inst.  1!'29,  p.  190),  but  on  no  valid  Lucumo,  probably  Cteles  Vibenna,  came  to 

grounds.  the  assistance   of    Romulus.     Cluver  (II. 

*  Sil.  Ital.  VIII.  485.  pp.  454,  473)  took  this  to  be  a  corruption 

^  Plin.  III.  8.     Ptol.  p.  72,  ed.  Bert.  of  Vetulonium.    Casaubon  thought  it  meant 

Ptolemy    calls     the     city    Vetulonium —  Populonium.     But  Miiller  (Elrusk.  I.  p. 

OviTovXwviov.  ll'j),  by  comparing  Propertius  (IV.  2,  4), 

"  Plin.  II.  106.  —  (aqiiis  calidis)  ad  Ve-  comes  to  the  opinion  that  it  was  Volsinii 

tulonios   in  Etnirirl,   non  jirocul  a  mai-i,  that  was  here  intended.   {I't  supra,  \^.^ly.) 

pisces  (innascuntur).  It  is  true  that  Cluver 


CHAP.  LI.]  ANCIENT    NOTICES    OF    VETULONIA.  271 

Bernardi.''  But  a  glance  at  the  map  will  prove  tliat  no  depend- 
ence can  be  placed  on  the  positi(nis  indicated  by  I'toleniy,  who  is 
more  often  wrong  than  right ;  and  if  the  towns  of  Etruria  were 
arranged  accordmg  to  liis  tables,  we  should  have  an  entirely  new 
map  of  that  land.  In  fact  Ptolemy  is  so  full  of  errors  and  incon- 
sistencies, that,  by  assuming  certain  of  his  data  to  be  correct 
to  the  exclusion  of  the  rest,  lie  may  be  forced  to  favour  almost 
nny  opinion.  Any  argument,  therefore,  drawn  from  such  a  source 
can  be  of  little  weight.'-^ 

The  sum  total  then  of  what  we  learn  from  the  ancients  on  this 
point,  may  be  comprised  in  a  few  words.  Yetulonia  was  a  city 
of  great  antiquity,  importance,  and  magnificence,  with  strong 
claims  to  rank  among  the  Twelve  chief  cities  of  the  land  ;  having 
hot  springs  in  its  neighbourhood,  and  though  not  situated 
exactl\'  on  the  shore,  it  must  liave  stood  at  a  short  distance  from 
the  sea.^ 

Such  are  the  requisites  of  the  long-lost  Etruria.  Every  one  of 
them  is  fulfilled  by  this  newly-found  cit}'.  On  its  antiquity  and 
importance  it  is  not  necessary  to  enlarge.  Its  size  alone,  without 
the  possession  of  such  a  port  as  Telamon,  would  give  this  city  a 
I'ight  to  rank  among  the  Twelve.  In  situation  it  also  corresponds, 
being  near  enough  to  the  sea  to  agree  with  Pliny's  "  non  iwond 
a  mari,'"  and  far  enough  inland  to  come  within  the  category  of 
"  intus   coloitice,''    being    scarcel}'   further   from    the    shore    tiian 

"  llicerclic  di  Vetulonia,  p.  93.  impos.sible,  if  yetulonia  had  been  of  the 

'  In  an  article  from  my  pen  in  the  Clas-  importance   Silius    Italicus  ascribes  to  it, 

.>ical  Museum,  Xo.  y.,  I  have  shown  that  that   no  mention  should  have  been  made 

the   arguments    Inghirami   adduces,    from  of   it  by  the   principal  writers   of   Rome, 

the  latitudes  and  longitudes  of  Ptolemy,  in  Ricerche  di  Vetulonia,  pi^.  65-92  ;  Memor. 

favour  of  Vetulonia  occupying  the  hill  of  Inst.  IV.  pp.  137-155.     The  limits  of  tliis 

Castiglione  Bernardi,  may  be  applied  with  woi-k  will  not  allow  me  here  to   reply  to 

superior  force    to   this    ancient   site    near  these  arguments  fui'ther  than  by  stating 

Jlagliano  ;  though  at  the  same  time  I  dis-  that  Cluver  and  Muller  put  a  totally  dif- 

claim  all  evidence  drawn  from  this  source  ferent    interpretation    on    the    words     of 

as  utterly  untrustworthy.  Dionysius— that    other   cities   of   Etruria, 

'  Dr.   Ambrosch,  in  order  to  reconcile  some  of  no  less  importance  than  Vetulonia, 

the  insignificant  liill  of  Castiglione  Bernardi  are  also  passed  by  in  silence  by  the  said 

{ut  nupra,  p.  214)  with  the  site  of  Vetu-  writers — and  that  the  authority  of  Silius 

Ionia,  endeavours  to  invalidate  the  testimony  Italicus  is  gratuitously  impugned  in  this 

of  Silius  Italicus  as  to  the  importance  and  matter,  as  that  author  had  the  reputation 

magniticence  of    that    ancient    city.     He  among    his    contemijoraries   for  care   and 

founds  his  views  on  the  mention  Dionysius  accuracy,    not   for   a    lively   imagination, 

makes  of  it,  and  the  place  he  assigns  it  at  Plin.  Epist.   III.  7.     For  a  detailed  reply 

tiie  end  of  the  sentence,  after  the  other  to  Dr.  AmVirosch,  I  must  refer  the  reader 

four  cities,  its  confederates  ;  but  chiefly  on  to  my  article  on  Vetulonia  in  the  Cla.ssical 

the  silence  of  Livy  and  other  historians,  of  Museum. 
Strabo   and    Virgil  ;    for    he   considers   it 


272  YETULONIA.  [cuap.  li. 

Tarquinii  and  Caere,  kindred  cities  niniilarly  classed.  As  to  the 
springs,  where  the  fish  in  Pliny's  time  had  got,  in  a  double  sense, 
into  hot  Avater,  I  had  the  satisfaction  of  learning  that  near 
Telamonaccio,  two  or  three  hundred  yards  only  from  the  sea, 
■were  hot  springs ;  but  I  had  not  the  opportunity  of  returning  to 
the  coast  to  ascertain  if  the  advantages  the  ancients  possessed,  in 
fishing  out  parboiled  mackerel  and  mullet,  have  descended  to  the 
modern  Tuscans.  For  an}-  traces  of  the  ancient  name  existing 
in  the  neighbourhood,  I  inquired  in  vain ;  but  that  in  no  way 
affects  my  opinion,  as  no  traditional  memory  exists  of  A'eii, 
Fidenffi,  Cosa,  and  many  other  ancient  cities  Avhose  sites  have 
been  fixed  beyond  a  doubt. 

One  imjjortant  feature  of  Vetulonia,  -which  is  nowhere  indeed 
expressly  mentioned  by  the  ancients,  but  may  be  inferred  from 
their  statements,  and  is  strongly  corroborated  by  coins^  and  other 
monmnental  evidence,  is  its  maritime  character.  This  feature 
has  been  little  regarded  by  Inghirami  and  Ambrosch,  who  would 
place  the  site  of  this  ancient  cit}'  at  Castiglione  Bernardi,  fourteen 
or  fifteen  miles  from  the  sea.~  But  it  is  one  which  tends  most 
strong!}-  to  establish  the  identity  of  A'etulonia  with  this  newly- 
discovered  city  near  Magiiano. 

An  analysis  of  the  passage  in  Silius  Italicus  will  lead  us  to  the 
conclusion  that  Vetulonia  must  have  been  a  sea-port,  or  at  least 
so  situated  as  to  be  able  to  carry  on  a  foreign  commerce.  The 
city  which  first  introduced  the  use  of  ivory  chairs  and  Tyrian 
purj)le  into  Etruria  must  surely  have  had  direct  intercourse  with 
the  East,  such  as  could  not  have  been  maintained  had  she  been 
i'ar  removed  from  the  coast.     AVe  are  told  that  the  purple  robes 

'  There  are  certain  coins  -with  a  head  III.  4-6 ;  ]\Iicali,  Ant.  Poj).  Ital.  I.  p.  144 ; 

and    the    legend    "  Vatl  "   in    Etruscan  III.  p.   191,  tav.  CXV.  8.     It  is  asserted 

characters   on    the   obverse,    and    on    the  indeed  by  Millingen  (Numis.  Auc.  Italic, 

reverse  a  trident,  whose  two  outer  prongs  p.  174)  that  these  coins  are  not  found  in 

rise  from  tlie  bodies  of  dolphins.     One  as  any  known  collection,   and  therefore  they 

lias  a  wheel  and  an  anchor,  with  the  legend  ought   to   be  considered   imaginary.     But 

"  Vktl  .  A,"  for  "Vetluna,"  in  Etruscan  Lanzi  (II.  p.  30)  and  Passeri  speak  of  one 

letter.s.     Lanzi  describes  some  as  having  a  as   in   the   Museo    Olivieri  ;  nor  is   their 

crescent,  though  a  wheel  and  an  axe  are  existence  questioned  by  Mionnet  (Suppl.  I. 

the  most  frequent  types,  the  one  indicating  jjp.    205-7,    214),   Sestini    (Geog.    Kumis. 

the  lictors,  the  other  the  curule  chair  ;  the  II.  p.   5),   or  MiJller  (Etrusk.  I.   p.   336), 

origin    of   both    being   ascribed    by    Silius  who,   hov^'cver,    ascribe  them  to   V'ettuna, 

Italicus  to  Vetulonia.     Micali  sees  in  the  now  Bettona,  in  Umbria.     They  are  also 

anchor  a  proof  of  the  proximity  of  this  city  stated  to  have  been  found  in  the  urns  of 

to  the  sea,  and  of  her  maritime  commerce.  Yolterra.     Bava,  ap.   lugliir.   ]\lon.  Etrus. 

Tasseri,  Paralip.   in  Bemjist.  p.  183,  taVi.  lY.  p.  87. 
YI.  1  ;  Guarnacci,  Orig.  Ital.  II.  tav.  XIX.  -    i't  supra,  ji.  19G  ct  seq. 

G-16;  Lanzi,  Sagg.  II.  i^p.  31,   110,  tav. 


CHAP.  LI.]      M.\.IIITIME    CHAEACTEE    OF    VETULONIA.  273 

-wliicli  the  Etruscan  cities  sent  to  Turquin,  ani(jng  the  other 
iiislf/nia  of  royalty,  in  token  of  submission  to  liis  authority, 
were  sucli  as  were  worn  by  the  Ijydian  and  Persian  monarchs, 
differing  onl}'  in  form."  Now  whatever  may  liave  been  the  origin 
of  the  Etruscan  race,  it  is  manifest  that  a  city  which  first  intro- 
(hiced  a  foreign  custom  like  this,  must,  if  that  custom  were 
brought  directly  from  the  East  by  its  founders,  have  been  on,  or 
near  the  coast ;  or  if  subsequently,  owing  to  commercial  rela- 
tions with  those  lands,  must  either  have  been,  or  have  had,  a 
port. 

The  maritime  character  of  Vetulonia  is  indeed  established  by 
a  monument  discovered  at  Cervetri  in  1840,  and  now  in  the 
liateran  Museum.  It  is  a  bas-relief,  bearing  the  devices  of  three 
Etruscan  cities — Tarquinii,  A^ulci,  and  Vetulonia.  The  latter, 
which  is  indicated  by  the  inscription  Vetvlonenses,  is  symbolised 
by  a  naked  man  with  an  oar  on  his  shoulder,  and  holding  a  pine- 
cone,  Avliich  he  seems  to  have  just  plucked  from  a  tree  over  his 
head.  Dr.  Braun,  the  late  secretary  of  the  Archffiological  Institute 
of  Home,  remarks  on  this  monument : — "that  this  figure  repre- 
sents Neptune,  seems  to  me  be3'ond  a  doubt ;  it  is  shown  not 
only  by  the  attribute  in  his  hand,  but  also  by  the  tree,  sacred  to 
that  deity,  which  stands  at  his  side.  However  it  be,  no  one  can 
presume  to  deny  that  the  figure  bearing  an  oar  indicates  a 
maritime  cit}^  such  as  Pliny  in  truth  implies  Vetulonia  to  have 
been."  *■  Canina,  however,  who  agrees  with  me  as  to  this  being 
the  site  of  Vetulonia,  takes  the  figure  with  an  oar  to  represent 
Telamon,  the  Argonaut.  Braun  suggests,  from  a  consideration 
of  tliis  monument,  that  there  was  probabl}'  a  pine-wood  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Vetulonia.  It  so  happens  that  there  is  such  a 
wood  extending  for  miles  along  the  shore  between  Telamone  and 
Orbetello,  Avhich  may  be  the  remains  of  a  forest  yet  more  exten- 
sive in  ancient  times. 

We   are   quite  in   the   dark    as   to    the   period    and    causes    of 
Vetulonia's    destruction   or   abandonment.      It   may   have   been 

••  Dion.  Hal.  III.  c.  Gl.  ori-iiially  supported  that  .statue,  and  that 

■•  Ann.  Inst.  1842,  p.  38,  tav.  d'Agg.  C.  tlie   Twelve   Cities  of   Etruiia  were  .sym- 

I5raun  is  of  opinion,  in  which  he  is  joined  bolised    thereon    in    compliment    to   that 

by  the  architect  Canina  (Hull.  Inst.  1840,  emperor  having  written  a  history  of  Etruria. 

p.  93),  that  this  bas-relief  formed  one  of  To  me,  however,  tlie  relief  appears  rather 

tlie  sides  of  a  square  pedestal,  who.se  other  to  have  formed  part  of  a  throne,  for  at  one 

tiiree  sides  bore  emblems  of  otlier  cities —  end  it  is  decorated  on  both  sides.     In  any 

tlie  Twelve  of  the  Etruscan  Confederation  ;  case  this  monument  may  be   accepted  as 

and  they  think  that  as  the  relief  was  found  presumptive   evidence   of  the  power  and 

near   a   sfc  itue   of   Claudius,  the   iwdestal  magnificence  of  Vetulonia. 

VOL.    II.  T 


2TI  yjiTULOXIA.  [CHAP.  i,i. 

malaria  ;  it  may  liave  been  the  sword  Avliicli  desolated  it.""  In 
trnth,  the  little  mention  made  of  it  by  ancient  writers,  seems  to 
mark  it  as  having  ceased  to  exist  at  or  before  the  time  of  Koman 
domination.**  The  total  silence  of  Livy  and  Strabo  is  also  thus 
best  explained.  The  absence  of  Roman  remains  on  the  site  of 
this  city  is  in  accordance  with  this  view.  Yet  that  A'etulonia 
existed,  or  rather  re-existed,  in  Imperial  times,  is  proved  by  the 
mention  made  of  it  by  Pliny  and  l*tolemy,  and  by  several  Ijatin 
inscrii)tions."  The  many  Roman  remains  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  this  site,  and  further  inland,  probably  belonged  to 
that  colony  ;  and  it  is  not  unlikely  that  the  ancient  city,  like 
Veii,  had  jireviously  lain  desolate  for  centuries,  and  that  when 
a  colony  was  to  be  established,  a  neighbouring  spot  was  chosen 
in  preference  to  the  original  site,  which  Avas  abandoned  as  too 
near  the  unhealthy  swamps  of  the  coast. 

I  have  the  satisfaction  of  learning  that  my  opinion  as  to  this 
city  being  the  long-lost  Yetulonia,  is  concurred  in  by  the  leading 
antiquaries  of  Rome — Germans  as  well  as  Italians,  as  well  as  by 
the  latest  writers  on  the  subject.^  But  be  it  A'etulonia  or  not,  it 
is  manifest  that  it  must  have  been  of  great  importance  in  the 
early  days  of  Etruria ;  as  it  is  surpassed  but  by  one  city  of  that 
land  in  size,  and  by  none  in  the  advantages  of  situation  for  naval 
and  commercial  purposes. 

^  Signer  Pasquinelli  remarks  tliat  from  '   Oue    found    at    Arczzo.      Gniter,    p. 

tlie    confusion    in    which    the    blocks    of  1021),  7  ;  Muratori,  p.  109-t,  2.     Another, 

masonry   were   found,    overturned    in    the  found  at  Pesaro.     Orelli,  III.,   No.  7415. 

foundations  of  the  buildings,  mingled  with  A  third,  now  at  Florence,  is  of  the  time  of 

fragments  of  pottery,    with  burnt  matter  Septimius  Severus,  a.I).  120,  Mui-atori,  p. 

and  fused  metal,  this  city  seems  to  have  109.3.     A  fourth,  preserved  in  the  Convent 

been  destroyed  by  violence.  of  iS.  Gregorio  at  Rome,  is  as  late  as  a.d. 

*  This  was  given  out  by  Demjister  (Etrur.  173.     For  these  inscriptions,  see  Etrurie 

Reg.  II.  p.  6ti)  as  a  mere  conjecture  ;  but  et  les  Etrusques,  I.  pp.  28-30. 
has  been  assumed  as  a  fact  by  a  recent  »  Noiil    des    Vergers,     Etrurie    et    les 

writer,   who  even  specifies  the   period  of  Etrusques,  1.  p.  67.     Deecke's  Miiller,  p. 

the  city's  destruction,  195. 


■^     Ji 


ANCIENT    TOMB,    SATURXIA. 


CHAPTER    LIL 

SATUEXIA.— ,S'J  rt/iZ.Y/^. 

A  few  rude  monuments  of  mountain  stone 
Survive  ;  all  else  is  swept  away. — WoRDSWORTir. 

Ed  io  :  maestro,  quai  son  quelle  genti, 

Che  .seijpellite  dentro  da  quell'  arche 

Si  fan  sentire  •  Daxtk. 

One  of  the  most  ancient  of  Etruscan  sites  is  Saturuia,  which 
lies  in  the  valley  of  the  Albegna,  twenty  miles  from  the  sea.  It 
may  be  reached  either  from  Orbetello  or  from  Grosseto.^ 

The  road  from  Orbetello  rnns  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Albegna, 
passing  through  Marsiliana  and  Monte  Merano,  and  is  carriage- 
able to  this  latter  place,  -which  is  but  three  miles  from  Saturnia. 
Those  who  would  take  the  more  direct  track  must  leave  their 
vehicles  at  Marsihana,  and  on  horseback  follow  the  banks  of  the 
Albegna.  But  this  will  not  do  after  heav}'  rains,  as  the  river  has 
to  be  forded  no  less  than  fourteen  times ! 

From  ]\Iagliano  I  took  the  route  of  Scansano,  a  t(^\vn  some  nine 
<»r  ten  miles  to  the  north.     Half  way  is  Pereta,  a  small  village, 


^  Satuniia  is  about  2S  miles  from  Cosa, 
23  from  Orbetello,  13  from  Scansano,  ne;irly 
SO  from  Grosseto,  11  or  12  from  Titigliano 


by  the  direct  track  through  Sovana,  but 
1'3  or  17  by  the  high  road  through  Man- 
ciano. 


276  SATUEXIA.  [chap.  lii. 

■with  a  ruined  castle  on  a  height,  overhanging  a  deep  valle^v  ;  and 
11  steep  ascent  of  some  miles  leads  hence  to  Scansano.  This  is  a 
town  of  some  size,  near  the  summit  of  a  mountain,  hut  Avitli  no- 
interest  be^'ond  being  the  only  halting-place  between  Grosseto 
and  Satumia.  Inquire  for  the  house  of  Domenico  Bianchi — the 
lack  of  comfort  will  as  far  as  possible  be  atoned  for  by  civility  and 
attention.  Grosseto  is  sixteen  or  seventeen  miles  distant,  and 
the  road  is  excellent,  but  terminates  at  Scansano.  For  the  first 
four  miles  from  Grosseto  it  crosses  the  plain  to  Istia,  a  ruined 
village  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Ombrone,  with  a  double  circuit 
of  crumbling  walls,  telling  of  vanished  greatness.  Here  the  river 
is  crossed  by  a  ferry,  but  when  swollen  by  heavy  rains,  it  is 
difficult  of  transit.  I  had  much  ado  to  cross  it  on  mj'  way  from 
Scansano,  but  on  my  retimi  a  few  hours  aftei'wards,  it  had  so- 
overstept  the  modesty  of  its  nature  as  to  rival  the  Tiber,  nine 
tunes  its  volume,  as  the  saving  goes — 

"  Tre  Ombroni  fanno  un  Amo, 
Tre  Ami  fanno  na  Tevere, 
Tre  Teveri  fanno  un  Po : 
E  tre  Po  di  Lombardia 
Fanno  un  Danubio  di  Turcliia  " — 

and  as  to  oblige  me  to  leave  my  vehicle  behind,  and  do  the  rest 
of  the  way  on  foot.  For  the  thirteen  miles  hence  to  Scansano  it 
is  a  continual  ascent,  through  woods  of  oak,  chestnut,  and 
Maremma  shrubs.  The  laurestinus,  then  in  full  bloom,  and 
numerous  flowers  of  varied  hue  and  odour,  gave  the  country  the 
appearance  of  a  vast  shrubbery,  or  untrimmed  garden — 

"  A  wilderness  of  sweets — 
Flowers  of  all  hue  and  weeds  of  glorious  feature." 

But  never  did  shi'ubbery  or  lavai  command  a  view  so  magnficent 
as  that  fi'om  these  heights.  From  the  headland  of  Troja  to  those 
of  Telamone  and  Ai'gentaro, 

' '  That  lovely  shore  of  solitude  and  light " 

la}'  unrolled  beneath,  with  its  bounding  belt  of  the  blue  Mediter- 
ranean, studded  with  many  a  silvery  islet. 

I  had  expected  to  accomplish  on  horseback  in  three  hours  the 
thirteen  miles  from  Scansano  to  Saturnia,  yet  six  elapsed  ere  I 
reached  my  destination.  The  track  is  a  mere  bridle-path,  utterly 
impracticable  to  vehicles ;  here,  rumiing  through  dense  woods  ;. 


CHAP.  Lii.]  SITUATION    OF    SATUENL\.  277 

there,  crossing  moors  wliicli  the  rains  had  converted  into  qnag- 
mu'es  ;  and  often  disappearing  altogether ;  and  my  guide  did  his 
best  to  enhance  its  dehghts  by  assuring  me  the  Albegna  would  be 
too  swollen  to  be  fordable,  and  we  must  certainly  retrace  our  steps 
to  Scansano.  However — al  Jin  si  canta  la  gloria — we  reached 
the  left  bank  of  the  stream,  and  ascended  the  long  slope  to 
Saturnia. 

The  situation  of  this  city  is  most  imposmg.  Like  Cosa  and 
llusellae,  it  occupies  the  summit  of  a  truncated  cone  ;  but,  still 
more  like  Orvieto,  it  also  rises  in  the  midst  of  an  amphitheatre  of 
lofty  mountains ;  and  as  the  circuit  of  its  walls  is  complete,  it 
appears  at  a  distance  to  be  well  inhabited.  It  is  only  on  entering 
its  gates  that  the  desolation  of  the  site  is  apparent. 

The  modern  Saturnia  is  the  representative  of  the  ancient 
merely  in  name.  It  occupies  but  a  fractional  part  of  the  original 
area,  and  is  a  miserable  "  luoghcttaccio,^^  with  a  church  and  some 
score  of  hovels,  and  only  one  decent  house — that  of  the  IMarchese 
Panciatichi  Ximenes,  a  noble  of  Aragonese  blood,  wdiose  family 
has  possessed  this  manor  for  the  last  two  hundred  and  fifty 
yeai's.  It  were  folly  to  expect  an  inn  in  such  a  hamlet.  There 
is  indeed  what  is  called  an  osteria,  but  a  peep  within  it  con- 
firmed all  I  had  heard  of  its  horrors,  and  determined  me  to 
effect  a  lodgment  in  the  palace.  This  was  no  difficult  matter. 
The  fattore,  or  agent  of  the  Marchese,  readil}^  agreed  to  accom- 
modate me  ;  and  furnished  me,  moreover,  with  a  guide  to  the 
antiquities  of  the  site. 

The  form  of  the  ancient  city  is  an  irregular  rhomboid,  the 
angles  facing  the  cardinal  points.  It  may  be  rather  more  than 
two  miles  in  cu'cuit,-  its  extent  being  determined  by  the  character 
of  the  ground,  which  breaks  into  cliffs  round  the  top  of  the 
cone.  In  this  respect  also  Saturnia  resembles  Orvieto,  and 
differs  from  Cosa  and  Ilusell?e,  which  have  no  clifts.  The 
existing  fortifications  were  erected  on  the  ruins  of  the  ancient 
in  the  fifteenth  century,  and  are  evidently  prior  to  the  use  of 
artillery.^ 

In  three  spots  only  could  I  perceive  remains  of  the  original 
walls.     The  finest  portion  is  on  the  south,  beneath  the  rumed 

"  Sir  R.  C.  Hoare  calls  the  circuit  three  plan  of  Saturnia,  and  regret  that  I  iliJ  not 

■niiles  (Classical  Tour,  I.  j).   52),  but  that  measure  it  myself. 

is    certainly   an    ovcrstiteinent.      It    can  ^  In  a  few  parts  are  remains  of  Roman 

scarcely  be  the  two  miles  and  a  half  which  work  —  ojjus  inccrtuui  and  reticidatum — 

Santi  ascribes  to  it.     Viaggio,  p.  88,  cited  the  repairs  of  the  still  earlier  fortifications, 
by  Miiller,  I.  3,  3.     I  have  never  seen  a 


278  SATUENM.  [chap.  lii. 

castle  and  hard  l>v  the  vilhige.  Here  is  a  gateway,  called  Porta 
Ilomana,  wliether  from  the  direction  in  which  it  opens,  or  fron\ 
its  evident  antiqnity,  matters  not.  On  both  sides  of  it  is  poly- 
gonal masonry,  precisely  like  that  of  Cosa  in  its  smooth  surface 
and  the  close  "kissing"  of  its  joints;  hut  whether  topped  originally 
in  the  same  way  with  horizontal  courses  cannot  he  determined, 
as  the  loftiest  fragment  does  not  now  rise  above  twelve  feet.' 
The  gateway,  though  now  arched  over  with  the  work  of  the 
middle  ages,  is  manifestl}-  coeval  with  these  walls,  for  the 
'  masonry  here  running  into  horizontal  forms  as  usual  at  angles, 
terminates  abruptly  in  doorposts  ;  "*  and  there  are  no  traces  of 
an  ancient  arch,  the  gate  having  been  spanned,  like  those  at 
Cosa  and  kin(h'ed  sites,  b}'  a  horizontal  lintel  of  stone  or  wood. 
The  pavement  of  the  old  Roman  road  still  runs  through  the  gate 
into  the  city. 

In  the  eastern  wall,  at  a  spot  called  II  Marrucatone,  just  above 
tlie  Camjio  Santo,  is  another  fragment  of  polygonal  masonry. 
Onl}'  two  courses  are  now  standing,  and  there  may  be  about 
twenty  blocks  in  all ;  and  these  show  more  tendency  to  regularity 
and  horizontaHty  than  the  portion  at  the  Porta  Pomana. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  city  is  a  thii'd  fragment,  in  the 
foundations  of  the  modern  walls,  and,  like  the  other  two  portions, 
of  travertine.  Bej^ond  this  I  could  not  perceive,  nor  could  I 
learn,  that  there  were  any  remains  of  the  ancient  fortifications ; 
but  it  is  almost  impossible  to  make  the  entu-e  tour  of  the  walls 
externalh',  on  account  of  the  dense  thickets  and  scattered  rocks, 
which  in  parts  forbid  a  near  approach.  Unlike  Cosa,  Saturnia 
has  but  these  feAv  disjecta  membra  left  of  her  former  might,  but 
these  suffice  to  attest  it — ex  pedc  Hercidem. 

The  wide  area  within  the  walls  is  in  summer  a  cornfield — 
seges  uhi  Troja  fait ;  in  whiter  a  sheep-walk.  Here  are  but  few 
relics  of  the  olden  time.  Near  the  Marrucatone  is  a  singular 
square  inclosure  of  artificial  concrete,  called  Bagno  Secco ;  but 

''  The  blocks  here  are  not  of  gi"eat  size.  tlie  date  of  Lis  visit  I  shouUl  have  doubted 

Two  of  tlie  largest  I  found  to  be  respectively  that  he  had  ever  been  at  Saturnia.     It  is 

— 5  ft.  7  in.  in  length,  by  i  ft.  7  in.  high  ;  surprising  that  the   peculiar  character   of 

and  4  ft.   7  in.   long,  by  3  ft.  2  in.  high.  this  masonry,  so  decidedly  polygonal,  could 

A  view  of  this  fragment   of  the  walls  of  have  escaped  his  eye.     Ilis  inaccuracy  in 

Saturnia  is  given  in  Ann.  Inst.   1831,  tav.  describing    it   as   mact'juo    must  also   lie 

d'  Agg.  E.  attributed  to  careless  observation  ;  and  hi» 

"•  It  must  have  been  the  hnrizoutiility  in  opinion  that  it  is    "rather   Iloman   than 

the  doorposts  that  led  Repetti  to  speak  of  Etruscan,"   is   therefore  of   little  weight, 

this  masonry  as  composed  "  of  great  blocks  See  Repetti,  V.  p.  206. 
of  scjuared  maciyno.'"     If  he  had  not  given 


CHAP.  Lii.]         WALLS    OF    POLYGONAL    :NL'\.S0NRY.  279 

tliiit  it  was  anciently  a  Batli  is  very  doubtfuL  It  must  be  of 
lloiaan  times.** 

The  few  other  antiiiuities  are  within  the  village.  'J'he  most 
remarkable  is  a  tall  massive  pilaster,  square  in  front,  but 
rounded  at  the  bark,  and  having  a  fluted  half-column,  engaged 
at  one  corner,  and  hewn  out  of  the  blocks  of  travertine  which 
compose  the  structure.  If  not  of  more  ancient  date,  it  probably 
formed  part  of  a  Roman  temple,  rather  than  of  an  arch  or  gate- 
way, as  has  been  supposed.' 

There  are  also  sundry  scattered  relics — tablets — altars — cipj)i 
— statues — cornices — all  of  Roman  times.  Nothing  did  I  per- 
ceive that  could  be  pronounced  Etruscan.'^ 

Few  ancient  sites  in  Etruria  have  more  natural  beauties  than 
Saturnia.  Deep  valleys  and  towering  heights  all  around,  yet 
variety  in  every  (quarter.  Here  the  cliff-bound,  olive -spread  hill 
of  Monte  Merano ;  there  the  elm-tufted  ridge  of  Scansano ;  and 
there  the  snowy  crests  of  Monte  Labbro  and  Santa  Flora.  From 
the  northern  ramparts  you  command  the  whole  valley  of  the 
Albegna.  You  see  the  stream  bursting  from  a  dark  gorge  in  its 
escape  from  the  regions  of  mountain  frost ;  and  where  it  is  not 
lost  behind  the  rock-mingled  foliage  on  the  slope,  snaking  its 
sliining  way  joyously  down  the  valley;  and  its  murmurs  come 
up  with  the  fainter  sheep-bell  from  the  echoing  hollow.  What- 
ever Saturnia  be  within,  it  has  a  paradise  aroimd  it.  If  you  be 
an  artist,  forget  not  your  portfolio  when  j'ou  stroll  aromid  the 
walls.  These  ruins  of  art  and  nature — these  crumbling  w'alls, 
half-draped  with  ivy,  clematis,  and  wild  vines — these  rugged 
cliffs  beneath  them — this  chaos  of  crags  and  trees  on  the  slope 
— you  will  revel  among  them,  and  will  declare  that  never  have 
you  found  more  captivating  studies  of  rock,  wood,  and  ruin  ! 

Here  is  food  for  the  antiquary  also.  Some  few  hundred  yards 
west  of  the  Porta  Romana  he  will  observe  among  the  crags  of 
travertine  which  strew  the  slope,  one  upright  mass  about  fifteen 
feet  high,  whose  squared  faces  bear  marks  of  the  hand  of  man. 
AN'hat  may  have  been  its  purpose,  he  is  at  a  loss  to  conjecture. 
High  at  one  end  he  will  espy  the  remains  of  a  tlight  of  steps 

^  It  Ikis  only  two   courses*,   c.icli  2  feet  scarcely  legible,  but  I  could  jierccive  them 

lil^'h,  but  the  blocks  of  concrete  are  20  feet  to  be  of  the  time  of  Marcus  Aurelius.     On 

in  length.     It  fonns  a  squai'c  of  49  feet.  the  opposite  side  of  the  Piiizza  is  a  lloman 

'   Hoare,  Class.  Tour.  I.  p.  52.  sepulchral    monument.      There   are   other 

"  In  front  of  the  Marchese's  house  stand  inscriptions    built    into   the    wall   of    the 

two  large  altars  of  travcrtiue,   with  very  church, 
long   inscriptions,    so    defaced    as    to    bi; 


280  SATUr.XIA.  [CHAP.  Lir. 

hewn  in  tlie  rock,  and  fonneiiv  loading  to  the  summit.  Let  him 
scramble  up,  and  he  will  behold  three  sarcophagi  or  graves  sunk 
in  the  level  summit  of  the  mass,  each  about  the  size  of  a  bod}', 
having  a  ledge  for  the  lid,  which  may  have  been  of  tiles,  or  more 
probably  was  a  slab  of  rock  carved  into  the  effigy  of  the  dead. 
Strange  this  trio  must  have  ajipeared,  half  rising  as  it  were  from 
the  tomb.  This  is  a  singular  position  for  interment — unique, 
as  far  as  is  yet  known,  in  Etruria.^  The  natural  rock  is  used 
abundantly  for  sepulture,  but  the  tomb  is  either  beneath,  or 
within,  the  monumental  fa9ade ; — here  alone  it  is  above  it.  For 
the  rock  itself  has  been  carved  with  architectural  decorations, 
l^robably  on  each  face,  though  the  southern  one  alone  retains 
such  traces.  The  extreme  simplicity  of  the  details  seems  to 
mark  this  monument  as  Etruscan.^ 

No  other  monument  could  I  perceive  near  the  walls  ;  but  on 
the  slope  beneath  the  city  to  the  south,  and  on  the  way  to  the 
Bagni,  are  several  ancient  tombs,  similar  in  character  but  of 
smaller  size  and  more  ruined  than  those  in  the  Pian  di  Palma, 
which  I  am  about  to  describe.  This  spot  is  called  La  Pestiera. 
The  necropolis  of  Saturnia  does  not  lie  so  much  on  tlie  slopes 
around,  as  at  Volterra,  or  on  the  opposite  heights,  as  at 
Tarquinii ;  but  in  the  low  grounds  on  the  other  bank  of  the 
Albegna,  two  miles  or  more  from  the  city.  This  may  in  great 
measure  be  owing  to  the  rocky  nature  of  these  slopes,  which 
would  not  readily  admit  of  excavation  ;  for  the  early  Italians 
always  sought  the  easiest  materials  for  their  chisels,  and  never 
attempted  the  marvels  in  granite,  porj^ln'r}',  or  basalt,  achieved 
by  the  children  of  Ham. 

On  these  slopes  are  traces  of  several  Roman  roads — all  of  the 
usual  j)olygonal  pavement." 

®  In  the  island  of  Thera  in  the  Greek  visilile,    and    from    the    liardncss    of    tlie 

archipehigo,  there  are  several  such  isolated  travertine,  which  wouhl  preserve  any  such 

rocks    with    sarcophagi     sunk    in    them.  works   of  the  chisel   committed  to  it  far 

Professor  Ross  calls  them  OrJKai  AarJjurjToi.  better  than  the  tufo  or  sandstone  of  which 

Ann.  Inst.  1841,  pp.  16,  19.     Mon.  Ined.  most  Etruscan  monuments   are   hewn,   it 

Inst.  III.  tav.  26.     I  have  observed  them  seems  jirobable  that  there  were  none, 

also  in  the  nccroiioles  of  Syracuse  and  of  -  Sir  R.  C.  Iloare   traced  five  of  these 

Cyrene.  roads  —  running    from    Saturnia    towards 

*  Here  ai-e   two   pilasters   with   square  Rome,   IVIonte  Argentaro,  Rusellas,  Siena, 

abaci,  of  most  simple  character,' supporting  and  Cliiusi,  respectively.     The  first,  which 

an   architrave,    which   is   divided   in    the  issues  from  the  Porta  Romana,  is  almost 

middle  by  a  sort  of  chimney — the  whole  i^crfect  for  some  distance  down  the  slope, 

in  very  low  relief,  forming  indeed   but  a  This  must  be  the  Via   Clodia.     See  Vol. 

panelling  to  the  smooth  face  of  the  rock.  I.    p.    490.     The  second,  which  led  down 

No  traces  of  figures  or  of  inscriptions  are  the  Valley  of  the  Albegna,  I  traced  by  its 


cuAP.  Lii.]     SEPULCHRAL    REMAINS— THE    FATTOPJA.  281 

As  an  excursion  to  tlic  necropolis  in  the  Pian  di  Palnia 
demands  half  a  day,  I  deferred  it  to  the  morrow.  On  returning 
to  ni}'  quarters  I  found  the  fattore  and  his  people  about  to  sit 
down  to  their  evening  meal.  Whether  something  extraordinary 
had  been  prepared  on  my  account,  I  cannot  say,  but  I  am  certain 
no  English  peasant  sits  down  nightl}'  to  such  a  supper  as  this, 
which  needed  no  apologies  from  Signor  Gaspare.  There  were 
soup,  beef,  kid,  poultr}',  game,  and  a  dessert  of  dried  fruits  and 
cheese,  all  the  produce  of  the  estate — cooked  in  the  spacious  hall 
in  which  it  was  served,  and  b}'  the  labouring  men,  who  on  bring- 
ing a  dish  to  tal)le  sat  down  and  partook  of  it.  It  was  a  patri- 
iirchal  and  excellent  meal — 

Prorsus  jucundc  coeuam  produxiinus  illam  ! 

I  was  no  less  satisfied  with  the  accommodation  upstairs,  where 
everything  did  credit  to  the  fattore  and  his  men  ;  for,  be  it 
known,  to  all  this  crew  of  shepherds  and  swains  there  was  not 

one 

'■  Phyllis,  Cliaryllis,  or  sweet  Amaryllis  " — 

not  "  one  fliir  spirit  for  a  minister." 

Let  future  visitors  to  Saturnia  follow  my  example,  and  ex- 
change the  hostelry  for  the  palace.  No  one  of  course  can  receive 
accommodation  in  this  way  gratis;  and  if  the  traveller  pay  double 
what  he  would  in  the  osteria,  he  is  no  loser,  seeing  he  gains 
comfort,  preserves  his  skin  and  his  temper,  and  retains  a  pleasing 
remembrance  of  the  place.  Happy  he  who  in  his  by-road  wan- 
derings in  Italy  meets  no  worse  Avelcome  than  from  the  sun- 
ruddied  face  and  jovial  smile  of  Signor  Gaspare  ! 

Let  the  traveller  eschew  the  summer  months  for  a  visit  to 
Saturnia.  In  spite  of  its  elevation  the  ariaccia  is  then  most 
pestilent ;  whether  arising  from  the  sulphureous  springs  in  its 
neighbourhood,  or  wafted  from  the  swamps  on  the  coast,  it 
well-nigh  desolates  the  spot;  and  when  the  harvest  is  cut  scarcely 
a  soul  remains  within  the  walls. 

Ere  the  sun  had  risen,  I  was  on  my  way  to  the  Piano  dil'alma. 
The  track  down  the  slope  followed  the  line  of  a  Roman  road, 
probably  that  leading  to  PiuselLne.  The  Albegna  was  still  swollen 
l)ut  fordable,  and  about  a  mile  bej'ond  it  I  reached  some  ploughed 

kerl)-stones  on  the  ascent  from  Scansano.  running  eastward  ;  Init  of  tliat  to  the 
Tliat  to  Ruscllie  is  also  very  traceable  ;  iiortli,  which  inobably  led  from  the  I'ort.i, 
and    I    observed   some    vestiges    of    that       di  Montagna,  I  could  perceive  no  traces. 


282  SATURXIA.  [chap.  i.h. 

fields  strewn  -with  fragments  of  i)<)ttery,  mingled  with  large  stones 
and  slabs.  Here  lay  the  tombs  of  the  ancient  dwellers  of  Satuniia. 
It  may  be  remarked  that  the  name  attached  to  ancient  sepul- 
chres differs  in  various  parts  of  Italy,  and  it  is  well  to  know  the 
local  appellation.  In  some  places  they  are  scpolrr't — in  others, 
tojiibc — in  some,  though  rarely,  ipof/ci — in  a  few,  auncve,  or  ccllc 
— in  many,  f/rutte — here  they  were  none  of  these,  but  dcpositi. 
In  truth  they  required  a  peculiar  name,  as  they  differed  from 
anything  to  be  seen  elsewhere  in  Etruria.  They  were  very 
numerous ;  i)iles  of  blocks  and  slabs  being  scattered  over  the 
plain,  each  bearing  traces  of  regular  arrangement,  yet  this  was 
so  often  disturbed  or  almost  destro3'ed  that  the  original  character 
of  the  monuments  could  only  be  learned  from  a  few  which  remain 
entire,  and  serve  as  keys  to  the  rest.  They  are  quadrangular 
chambers  sunk  a  few  feet  below  the  surface,  lined  with  rough 
slabs  of  rock,  set  upright,  one  on  each  side,  and  roofed  over 
Avith  two  huge  slabs  resting  against  each  other  so  as  to  form  a 
lude  penthouse  ;  or  else  with  a  single  one  of  enormous  size 
covering  the  whole,  and  laid  at  a  slight  inclination,  apparently 
for  the  same  purpose  of  carrying  off  the  rain.  Not  a  chisel  has 
touched  these  rugged  masses,  which  are  just  as  broken  off  from 
their  native  rock,  with  their  edges  all  shapeless  and  irregular ; 
and,  if  their  laces  are  somewhat  smooth,  it  is  owing  to  the 
tendenc_y  of  the  travertine  to  split  in  laminar  forms.  These 
are  the  most  rude  and  primitive  structures  conceivable ;  such 
as  the  savage  would  make  on  inhaling  his  first  breath  of  civili- 
sation, on  emerging  from  his  cave  or  den  in  the  rock.  Tlieii' 
dimensions  vary  from  about  sixteen  feet  square  to  half  that  size, 
though  few  are  strictly  of  that  form.^  As  each  side  of  the  tomb 
is  composed  generally  of  a  single  slab,  so  the  dimensions  of  the 
tombs  indicate  those  also  of  the  slabs,  except  as  regards  the 
coverstones,  which  lap  over  about  a  foot  each  wa}'  and  are  there- 
fore so  much  larger.  "When  single,  these  cover-stones  are  of 
great  size — one  I  measured  was  IG  feet  by  12 — another  16  feet 
by  10^- — and  a  third  10^  feet  by  9  k  The  tomb  represented  in 
the  woodcut  at  the  head  of  this  cliapter  has  a  single  cover-stone, 
IG  or  18  feet  each  way,  and  about  one  foot  in  thickness.  In 
some  few  instances  where  the  tomb  is  very  large  there  are  two 
slabs  on  one  side,  and  the  interstices  between  them,  as  they  are 

«  I  .add  tlic  (liiacn.sion.s  of  some  tliat  [       —11  feet  by6i— 'Ji  feet  by  G— 9  feet  by  S 
measured  :  — 1(!  feet  long  by  somewliat  les.s       — 8  feet  by  C^.     All  the  tombs  were  about 
u  widtli— 14  feet  by  11^—14  feet  by  7A       [>  or  6  feet  high  within. 


CHAP.  Lii.]     EEMAEKABLE  TOMBS  IJKE  CROMI.ECUS.  2S;; 

not  cut  to  fit,  are  filled  with  siuiill  stones  and  fragineiits  of  rock. 
One  tomb  indeed  was  lined  entirely  with  small  stones  rudely  })ut 
together,  ver}^  like  the  solitary  sepulchre  I  have  described  as 
existing  at  Buselhe,  but  of  ruder  construction.  Many  of"  these 
tombs  are  divided  into  two  chambers  or  compartments  for  bodies, 
by  an  upright  slab,  on  which  the  cover-stones  rest.'  In  most  of 
them  there  is  a  passage,  about  three  feet  wide,  and  ten  or  twelve 
feet  long,  leading  to  the  sepulchral  cluimber,  and  lined  with  slabs 
of  inferior  size  and  thickness. 

These  tombs  are  sunk  but  little  below  the  sui-face,  because 
each  was  inclosed  in  a  tumulus  ;  the  earth  being  piled  around  so 
as  to  conceal  all  but  the  cover-stones,  which  were  probably  also 
originally  buried.  These  tmnuli,  so  far  as  it  is  possible  to 
measure  them,  were  about  25  or  30  feet  in  diameter.  Mr. 
Ainsle}'  remarked  one  which  appeared  to  have  been  (luadrangular. 
In  many  instances  the  earth  has  been  removed  or  washed  away, 
so  as  to  leave  the  structure  standing  above  the  surface.  Here 
the  eye  is  startled  by  the  striking  resemblance  to  the  cromlechs 
of  our  own  countr}-.  Not  that  one  such  monument  is  actually 
standing  above  ground  in  an  entire  state ;  but  remove  tlie  eartli 
from  any  one  of  those  with  a  single  cover-stone,  and  in  the  three 
upright  slabs,  with  their  shelving,  overlapping  lid,  you  have  the 
exact  counterpart  of  Kit's  Cotty  House,  and  other  like  familiar 
antiquities  of  Britain;  and  the  resemblance  is  not  only  in  the 
form,  and  in  the  unhewn  masses,  but  even  in  the  dimensions  of 
the  structures.  We  know  also  that  many  of  the  cromlechs  or 
kistvaens  of  the  British  Isles  have  been  found  inclosed  in 
barrows,  sometimes  with  a  cu'cle  of  small  upright  slabs  around 
them  ;  and  from  analogy  we  may  infer  tliat  all  were  originally 
so  buried.  Here  is  a  further  point  of  resemblance  to  these 
tombs  of  Saturnia.'^  In  some  of  the  cromlechs,  moreover,  which 
are  inclosed  in  tumuli,  long  passages,  lined  wdth  upright  slabs, 
and  roofed  in  with  others  laid  horizontally,  have  been  found  ; 
whether  the  similar  passages  in  these  tombs  c>f  Satuniia  were 
also  covered  in,  cannot  now  be  determined. 

^  This  is  shown  in  the  wooilcut  at  the  compartments,  one  at  the  end  ami  one  on 

head  of   this    Chapter.     It  is   in   general  each  side,  witii  a  passage   between  thein, 

about  two-tliirds  of  tlie  tomb  in  length,  i.e.,  just  as  in  so  many  of  the  rock-hewn  sepid- 

when  placed  longitudinally,  for  it  is  some-  chres  of  Etruria.      But  these  are  rare, 

times,  though  rarely,   set  transversely,  in  *•  I  observed  only  one  instance  of  a  tu- 

which  case  it  is  shaped  above   into  a  gable  niulus  encircled  by  small  sla)>s  ;  but  it  is 

to  support  the  cover-stones.     This   parti-  ])robable  that  the  custom  was  general  ;  the 

tionslab  is  generally  set  rather  obliipiely.  small  size  of  these  slalis  ottering  a  tempta- 

Some  tombs  are  even  divided  into  three  tion  to  the  pea.santry  to  remove  them. 


2S4  SATUriXIA.  [chap.  lii. 

The  shelving  or  dip  of  the  cover-stone  in  the  cairns  or 
cromlechs  has  induced  antiquaries  to  regard  them  as  Druidical 
altars,  formed  Avith  tliis  inchnation  in  order  that  the  blood  of 
the  victims  might  more  easily  rmi  off.  But  it  is  now  gene- 
rally agreed  from  the  remains  found  within  them,  that  they 
are  s.ei)idchral  monuments ;  and  there  can  be  little  doubt  that 
these  structures  of  Saturnia  are  of  that  character,  though 
nothing  beyond  analog}'  and  tradition  now  remains  to  attest  it. 
Here  the  slope  of  the  cover-stone  is  evidently  to  carry  off  the 
rain. 

These  tombs  have  stood  for  so  many  ages  open  and  dismantled 
— the  haunts  of  the  fox,  the  porcupine,  and  unclean  reptiles — 
that  no  traces  of  the  ancient  dead  are  now  visible,  beyond  the 
broken  potter}'  which  strews  the  plain.  At  a  spot  called  II 
Puntone,  Avest  of  the  Plan  di  Palma,  and  nearer  the  banks  of  the 
Albegna,  are  more  of  these  singular  sepulchres.  Those  at  La 
Pestiera  on  the  south  of  Saturnia  have  already  been  mentioned ; 
and  it  is  possible  that  more  exist  on  other  sides  of  the  cit}',  but  I 
could  not  ascertain  the  fact. 

These  monuments  of  Saturnia  are  particularly  worthy  of 
notice,  as  nothing  like  them  is  to  be  seen  on  any  other  site  in 
Etruria.  Similar  tombs,  however,  have  in  ages  past  been 
discovered  at  Cortona,^  and  of  late  years  at  Santa  Marinella;^ 
but  no  traces  of  them  now  remain  on  either  site.  I  have  never 
seen  any  descrii3tion  of  these  tombs  in  the  Pian  di  Palma ;  nor 
am  I  aware  that  any  English  traveller  has  visited  them,  since 
Mr.  Ainsley  and  myself." 

To  what  era,  and  to  what  race,  are  we  to  attribute  these 
tombs?  Prior  to  the  Poman  conquest  they  must  be,  for  that 
jieople  never  constructed  such  rude  burial-places  for  their  dead. 
Can  we  assign  them  to  the  Etruscans — to  that  race  of  whose  care 
in  decorating  their  tombs  with  architectural  facades,  and  inter- 
nalh'  with  painting  and  sculpture,  Ave  have  so  many  proofs  ?  If 
Ave  are  to   regard  the  Eegulini-Galassi  tomb   of  Ctere,  Avith   its 

^  Daldelli,  SIS.  quoted  by  Gori,  I\Ius.  rains."  Classical  Tour,  I.  p.  .'52.  But  he 
Etrus.  III.  pp.  75-G,  and  Inghirami,  ]Mon.  does  not  appear  to  have  seen  them,  or  he 
JJtrus.  IV.  p.  72.  must  have   been  struck  by  their  peculiar 

'  Vol.  I.  p.  295.  character.       Repetti    (V.    p.     207)    only 

-  Sir  R.   C.    Hoare   merely  states  that       mentions  those  on  the  slope  beneath  Sa- 

"  several  subterraneous    grottos   are   still  turnia,  towards  the  Bagni,  and  describes 

•open  in  the  neighbouring  fields,  but  there  them  simply  as  "fosse  coijcrte  da  lastroni 

is  great  reason  to  suppose  that  many  more  di    travertino,"   containing    human   bones 

•exist  undiscovered,  for  in  various  spots  the  and  nothing  else, 
ivater    suddenly     disappears    after    hard 


CHAP.  MI.]      WHAT   UACE   COXSTEUCTED  THESE   TOMBS?        283 

regular,  S(|uarLHl  muscjiiiy,  as  of  Pelasgic  antiquit}',  surely  such 
savagel}'  rude  structures  as  these  cannot  be  of  later  date.  Be  it 
remembered  that  the  masses  are  wholly  unwrought — not  even 
hammer-dressed,  but  simply  split  off  from  the  laminous  rock; 
the  princij^al  difficult}'  l^'ing  in  the  transport  of  them  to  their 
present  sites.  If  not  of  Etruscan  construction,  to  whom  can 
they  be  attributed  ?  The  prior  occupants  of  the  land,  as  we 
learn  from  ancient  writers,  were  first  the  Umbrians  or  Siculi, 
and  then  the  Pelasgi.  As  the  antiquity  of  these  monuments 
is  connected  with  that  of  the  city-walls,  we  will  consider  botli 
in  reviewing  the  few  notices  we  find  of  Saturnia  in  ancient 
writers. 

Dionysius  mentions  Saturnia  together  with  Agylla,  Pisa,  and 
Alsium,  as  one  of  the  many  towns  either  built  by  the  united 
Pelasgi  and  Aborigines,  or  taken  by  them  from  the  Siculi,  the 
original  inhabitants.^  Be^'ond  this  there  is  little  mention  of  it. 
We  learn  that  it  Avas  one  of  the  Boman  colonies  in  Etruria,  that 
it  had  originall}'  borne  the  name  of  Aurinia ;  '^  that  it  was  in  the 
territory  of  Caletra,  and  that  it  was  colonised  in  the  year  of 
Eome  571  (b.c.  183) .^ 

Though  we  ma}-  not  be  able  to  accord  Dionysius  unreserved 
credit  in  his  accounts  of  such  remote  periods,  we  may  safely 
admit  his  testimony  as  to  the  great  antiquit}'  of  Saturnia.  The 
very  name,  the  earliest  appellation  of  Italy  itself,  is  corroborative 
of  this  fact.  We  are  therefore  prepared  for  relics  of  very  ancient 
times  on  this  spot.  Yet  Micali  would  fain  have  it  that  its 
polygonal  walls  do  not  indicate  a  high  antiquity,  and  probablj- 
date  only  from  the  time  of  the  Boman  colonj^^  It  is  unnecessary 
to  repeat  what  has  been  said  in  a  previous  chapter  in  refutation 
of  his  views ;  but  what  was  there  said  in  support  of  the  antiquity 

^  Dion.     ILil.     I.     c.    20.     It   may   he  pp.  267,  313),  seems  to  bear  some  relation 

thought  by  some  that  Dionysius  referred  to  to  Saturnia. 

the  original  to\\Ti  on  the  site  of  Rome —  •'  Liv.  XXXIX.  55. 

"Saturnia,  ubi  nunc   Roma   est"    (Plin.  ''  Ant.    Pop.    Ital.    I.    pp.     144,    196. 

III.  9) — but  it  is  evident  that  this  town  of  Micali's  objection    is   mere  supposition — 

Etnuna  was    intended,    as   all   the   other  "forsc" — "si  pub    credere" — " potrebb' 

places  mentioned  are  in  this  land,  and  are  casere" — or  assei-tion  ;  the  only  argument 

•siiid  by  him  to  have  been  afterwards  con-  he  uses  is  the  high  finish  of  the  masonry, 

ijuered  by  the  Etruscans.  an  argument  which,  if  it  have  any  force, 

■•Plin.    III.    S. — "Satumini    qui   ante  will  ajiply  to  all  similar  masonry  wherever 

Aurinini  vocabantur."     It  is  also  mentioned  found— in  Italy,  Greece,   or  Asia  Minor; 

as  a  colony  by  Ptolemy  (p.   72,  ed  Bert.),  though  we  are  well  assured  that  in  many 

andap?a/cc<j(>"a  by  Festus(i'.  PrajfecturK).  instances   walls   of   this   description    were 

The  Etruscan  family-name  of  "Sauturiue,"  raised   in  very  remote  times,  jn-ior  to  the 

or  "Sauturini"  (Vermigl.  Iscriz.  Perug.  I.  invention  of  the  arch. 


286  SATUEXIA.  [chap.  lii. 

and  Pelasgie  origin  of  this  style  of  masonry,"  applies  with  more 
than  usual  force  to  Satumia,  which  has  the  addition  of  historical 
testimon}'  in  its  favour.  It  is  enough  to  entertain  douhts  in 
those  cases  where  we  have  no  record  of  a  definite  Pelasgie  origin. 
"Where  such  record  exists,  we  may  take  it  to  be  authenticated  by 
the  walls,  if  of  accordant  structure,  and  the  walls  to  be  cha- 
racteiised  by  the  tradition.  Either  alone  may  be  open  to 
suspicion,  Init  together  they  substantiate  each  other  into  genuine- 
ness. In  the  case  of  Satumia,  moreover,  we  ai-e  particularly 
entitled  to  ascribe  these  walls  to  that  i^eople,  with  whom  poly- 
gonal masonry  was  the  rule,  rectangular  the  exception,  rather 
than  to  any  subsequent  race.  For  the  doctrine  of  the  material 
having  alone  detei'mined  the  character  of  the  masonry,  is  here 
utterly  at  fault.  It  is  not  limestone,  which  is  said  to  split  so 
readily  into  polygonal  forms ;  it  is  travertine,  which  all  the 
world  knows  has  a  horizontal  cleavage.  The  natural  superfluities 
of  the  blocks  were  not  squared  down  as  the  Romans  always 
treated  this  material,  but  cut  into  those  angular  forms  which  best 
pleased  the  builders.^  So  much  for  the  doctrine  of  constructive 
necessity  as  applied  to  Saturuia. 

But  if  the  walls  of  Satui-nia  be  Pelasgie,  can  the  tombs  have 
the  same  origin  ?  Theii'  primitive  rudeness  would  accord  better 
with  walls  of  unlle^^•n  Cyclopean  masonry,  like  those  above 
Monte  Fortino,  or  at  Civitella  and  Olevano,  in  Sabina,  and  seems 
hai-dly  consistent  with  the  highly-wrought  character  of  the 
polygonal  style, — it  is  difficult  to  believe  that  the  same  hands 
constructed  both  tombs  and  walls.  Yet  it  may  be  urged  m  favour 
of  a  Pelasgie  origin  for  the  former,  that  they  are  very  similar  to 
ancient  tombs  found  at  Santa  Marinella,  on  that  coast  which  is 
studded  with  Pelasgie  settlements ;  and  the  resemblance  the 
least  rude  among  them  (those  with  gabled  roofs)  bear  to  the 
sepulchres  of  Piestum  and  of  ]\Iagna  Graecia  generally,  fiivours  a 
Greek  origin.  They  are,  however,  more  like  the  structm-es  of  a 
i'uder  people,  such  as  we  may  conceive  the  Umbri  or  Siculi,  the 
earliest  possessors  of  tlie  land,  to  have  been.  AVe  learn  from 
Dionysius,  that  the  Aborigines  who  joined  the  Pelasgi  in  expelling 
the  Siculi  from  Etruria,  had  cemeteries  of  tumuli  like  this,  but 
rf  the  internal  structure  of  tlieir  tombs  we  know  nothing.'  Un- 
fortunately we  have  here   no  furniture  remaining  to   assist  our 

"    Vt  mprn,  i)p.  2'u  et  seq.  (Memor.    Inst.    III.    p.    90),    but   this   is 

*  It  ha-s   been   asserted  that  polygonal       contradicted  by  these  walls  of  Saturnia, 
masonry  was   never  formed  of  travertine  '  Dion.  Hal.  I.  c.  11. 


CHAP.  Lii.]     TllK  CITY  AXI)   ITS   WALLS  All!':  I'ICLASGIC.  2S7 

inquiri(3s.^  l)Ut  it  lUiiy  l>c  objected — if  tliese  be  tlie  sepnli-lnes 
of  tlie  earlier  occupants  of  the  site,  ^vllere  are  tliose  of  the 
Ktruscans  ?  It  is  a  question  Avliich  may  be  asked  at  Fiesole, 
Cosa,  Pyi'MU  '^ii(^  many  other  sites,  Avhere  no  excavations  have 
yet  been  made.  Future  research,  either  Ity  finding  some  of 
tliese  rude  tombs  intact,  or  by  discovering  others  of  a  difterent 
character,  may  be  expected  to  throw  light  on  the  subject.- 

Yet  this  form  of  sepulchre  can  liardh^  be  indicative  of  any  one 
race  in  particular.  The  structure  is  so  rude  and  simple,  that  it 
might  have  suggested  itself  to  an}'  people,  and  be  naturally 
adopted  in  an  earl}'  state  of  civilization.  It  is  tlie  ver}'  arrange- 
ment the  child  makes  use  of  in  building  his  house  of  cards. 
This  simplicity  accounts  for  the  wide  diffusion  of  sucli  monu- 
ments over  the  ( )ld  World ;  for  the}'  are  found  in  different 
climates  and  widely  distant  countries,  from  the  mountains  of 
Wales  and  Irelaiul  to  the  deserts  of  Barbary,  and  from  the 
western  shores  of  the  Iberian  Peninsula  to  the  steppes  of 
Tartar}',  and  the  eastern  coasts  of  Hindostan.  They  are  found 
on  mountains  and  in  plains,  on  continents  and  in  islands,  on  the 
sea-coast  and  far  inland,  by  the  river  and  in  the  desert,  solitary 
and  grouped  in  multitudes.''     That  in  certain  instances  they  may 


^  The  articles  found  iu  a  similar  tomb 
;it  Cortona,  so  far  as  can  be  gathered  from 
the  description  of  Baldelli  {ut  siqira,  p. 
1284),  seem  to  mark  it  ;is  Etruscan. 

-  The  quantitj'  of  coarse  broken  pottery 
strewn  over  the  jjlain  hints  the  character 
of  their  contents  ;  but  Ilepetti  (V.  p.  207) 
says  that  in  the  similar  tombs  on  the  other 
side  of  Saturnia,  already  mentioned,  were 
found  human  bones  alone,  without  any 
articles  of  scul[)ture,  or  urn--,  fictile  vases, 
and  the  usual  furniture  of  Etruscan  tombs. 
If  the  peasantry  may  be  credited,  the  bones 
found  here  were  of  gigantic  proportions. 
The  veiy  similar  tombs  near  Santa  .\larinella 
contained  articles  like  those  found  in  the 
earliest  sepulchres  of  Etruria,  of  very 
archaic  character — some  even  inirely 
Egyptian. 

•*  How  numerous  these  monuments  are 
in  the  British  Isles  is  well  known.  They 
are  found  also  on  the  continent  of  Eurojie, 
jiarticularly  in  the  north  of  France  ;  and 
also  iu  the  Spanish  Peninsula,  though  to 
what  extent  they  exist  there  is  unknown, 
as  the  antiquities  of  that  land  have  lieen 
little  investigated.     (See  Bon'ow's  Bible  in 


Spain,  Chapter  VII.)  On  the  shores  of 
the  ilcditerrauean  they  are  particularly 
abundant.  Besides  the  other  two  sites  in 
Etruria,  they  are  found  in  Sardinia  and  the 
Balearies  ;  and  they  exist  in  abundance  in 
the  Regency  of  Tunis,  in  the  ancient  terri- 
toi-y  of  Carthage,  as  I  learn  from  the  notes 
and  sketches  of  the  late  Mr.  Catherwood, 
who  penetrated  far  into  that  unexplored 
region,  and  possessed  artistic  recoixls  of  its 
monuments  of  great  value  and  interest. 
From  these  sources  I  learn  that  the  tombs 
of  the  African  desert  exactly  accord  in 
construction  and  measurements  with  the 
better-known  inonuments  of  thi.s  character. 
The  three  sites  on  which  Catherwood  found 
them  were,  Sidi  I'.oosi,  to  the  north-east  of 
Ilydrah,  Welled  Ayar,  and  Lheys.  At  the 
first  place  they  were  particularly  numerous. 
I  am  not  aware  that  any  have  been  dis- 
covered in  Greece,  but  in  Asia  they  are 
not  wanting.  Captains  Irby  and  ^[angles 
describe  a  group  of  them  on  the  banks  of 
the  Jordan.  Holy  Land,  p.  99.  They 
are  said  also  to  have  been  found  among  the 
mouut:iins  of  the  Caucasus,  and  on  the 
steppes  of  Tartary  ;  and  I'ecent  I'esearches 


288  SATUEXIA.  [chap,  lii, 

be  the  work  of  the  same  people  in  different  countries  is  not  to  be 
gainsaid,^  but  there  is  no  necessity  to  seek  for  one  i^articuLir 
race  as  the  constructors  of  these  monuments,  or  even  as  the 
originators  of  the  type. 

I  trust  that  this  notice  of  the  tombs  of  Saturnia  will  excite 
interest  in  this  unfrequented  spot,  and  lead  to  further  investiga- 
tion. This  district  of  Italy  is  a  new  field  to  the  antiquary.  No 
excavations  have  been  made,  nor  even  researches  for  monuments 
above  ground.^ 

From  Saturnia  you  may  proceed  to  Pitigliano,  Sovana,  and 
•Sorano.  There  is  a  carriage-road  to  those  places  from  Monte 
Merano,  only  three  miles  from  Saturnia.  On  the  way  to  it  j'ou 
pass  the  Bagni,  a  spring  of  sulphureous  water,  like  the  Bulicame 
near  Yiterbo,  which  falls  in  a  cascade,  encrusting  the  cliffs  with 
a  many-hued  deposit.  The  table-land  on  which  Monte  Merano 
stands  is  strewn  Avith  pottery,  wdiich  may  possibl}'  mark  the 
Etruscan  necropolis  of  Saturnia.  Three  miles  beyond  is  Man- 
ciano,  on  a  height  commanding  one  of  tliose  glorious  and  varied 
panoramas  which  give  such  a  charm  to  Ital3\  Here  you  are  on 
the  frontier  between  the  former  Tuscan  and  Roman  States.  The 
Maremma,  its  well-known  headlands,  the  isle-studded  deej), 
Saturnia  in  the  vale  of  the  Albegna,  at  the  foot  of  Monte  Amiata 
— are  all  in  the  Grand  Duchy ;  while  the  Patrimony  of  St.  Peter 
greets  you  in  the  vast  Etruscan  plain,  with  the  Ponte  della 
Badia,  the  towers  of  Montalto  and  Corneto,  the  Monti  di 
C'anino,  and  many  other  familiar  objects  on  its  wide  surface, 
which  is  bounded  b}"  the  dark-crested  Ciminian,  and  the  distant 
Apennines,  a  range  of  icy  peaks,  at  sunset  all  burnished  with 
gold — sublime  as  the  Alps  beheld  from  the  Jura. 

have  l;irouglit  tliem  to  liglit  in  tlie  Presi-  I\Ioiiuments." 

dency  of  Madras.     In  a  letter  read  at  the  •*  In   the   British   Isles   and   in  France 

Asiatic  Society,  JanuarylTth,  1846,  Captain  they  are  probably  of  Celtic  construction. 

Newbold  stated  that  near  Chittoor  in  North  In    the    Peninsula   and   the    isles   of    the 

Arcot,  he  had  seen  a  square  mile  of  ground  Mediterranean  they  may  be  of  Punic  origin, 

covered    with    such    monuments,    mostly  like  those  in  the  territory  of   Carthage ; 

opened  and  destroyed  by  the  natives  for  though  those  of  Sardinia  and  Etruria  are 

the   sake  of  the   blocks  which  composed  more  probably  the  work  of  the  Tyrrhene- 

them,  yet  a  few  remained  entire  to  testify  Pelasgi. 

to  the  character  of  the  rest.  In  them  were  ''  On  a  hill  three  miles  to  the  E.S.E.  of 
found  sarcophagi,  with  the  bones  of  the  Saturnia  are  some  ruins,  called  Le  Murelle. 
dead,  and  pottery  of  red  and  black  ware.  I  had  no  opportunity  of  visiting  them,  but 
They  were  here  paved  with  a  large  slab,  from  the  description  I  received  I  gathered 
and  entered  by  a  circiilar  hole  in  one  that  they  are  Roman  concamcrationes,  pro- 
of the  upright  slabs  which  formed  the  bal)ly  the  remains  of  a  villa.  On  other 
walls.  For  the  fullest  information  on  this  spots  in  the  neiglibourhood  there  are  said 
subject     see     Fergusson's     "Old     Stone  to  be  ruiLs. 


•CHAP.   LII.] 


A    NAMELESS    ETRUSCAX    SITE. 


289 


From  Miinciano  a  road  leads  southward  to  ^Nloiitaltc^  and 
Conieto.  Tliere  is  also  a  track  to  the  Ponte  della  Badia. 
]5eyond  jNIanciano,  on  the  descent  to  the  Flora,  some  tomhs  and 
sepulchral  niches  in  the  cliti's,  and  fragments  of  pottery  on  the 
slopes,  proclaim  the  site  of  an  Etruscan  town.^  I  could  make 
no  researches  here,  as  the  sun  was  on  the  horizon  as  I  passed, 
and  I  had  no  opportimity  of  returning  to  the  spot;  but  it  seemed 
to  me  that  the  town  must  have  stood  on  the  cliff-bound  height, 
now  crested  witli  a  castle  in  ruins.  What  its  name  was,  we  havt; 
no  means  of  determining.  It  may  be  remembered,  however, 
that  Caletra  stood  somewhere  in  this  district,  for  Saturnia  was 
in  its  territory.'''  The  Flora  has  here  the  same  character  as  at 
Vulci — a  rapid  stream  overhung  by  lofty  cliffs,  half  draped  Avith 
Avood.  The  rocks  are  of  the  same  formation — dark  red  or  brown 
tufo,  overlaid  with  a  stratum  of  white  travertine,  like  a  wedding 
cake  with  its  top-crust  of  sugar  ;  hut  as  the  plums  are  not  visible 
till  the  sugar  has  been  removed,  so  you  can  see  the  soft  volcanic 
rock  only  where  the  hard  aqueous  deposit  which  covers  it  has 
been  broken  away. 


"  It  has  lieen  already  stated  that  Cam- 
I)anai-I  made  slight  excavations  in  this 
neighbourhood.      Vol.  I.  p.  498. 

'  Liv.  XXXIX.  5.5.  It  will  be  obsen'ed 
that  Livy  does  not  speak  of  a  town  of  this 
name,  merely  of  an  wjer — "Satnrnia  co- 
lonia  civium  llomanornra  in  agrum  Cale- 
tranum  est  deiUicta  ;"  and  from  this,  and 
more  clearly  from  Pliny's  notice  (III.  8) — 
"  ojipidorum  veterum  nomina  retinent  agri 
Crustuminus,  Caletranns  " — we  may  infer 
that  the  Etruscan  town  had  ceased  to  exist 


before  Imperial  times — a  fact  which  may 
assist  researches  for  its  site.  It  has  been 
already  obsei-ved  {ut  supra,  p.  208),  that 
Repetti  suggests  for  Caletra  a  site  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Magliano,  and  some  would 
identify  it  with  the  newly  found  city  be- 
tween  that  village  and  the  sea  ;  but  there 
is  no  reason  to  suppose  from  the  only  two 
notices  we  have  of  Caletra,  that  it  was 
ever  of  such  importance  as  that  site  would 
indicate,  which  corresponds  with  far  more 
probability  to  the  ancient  Vetulonia. 


yrom  a  Sketch  hy  E.  W.  Cooke,  R.A. 


KADICOFANI. 


CHAPTER    LITT. 

CHiusi.— rx  r,s/f  ^jf . 

The  City. 

I  pray  you  let  us  satisfy  our  eyes 

AVitli  the  memorials  and  the  things  of  fame, 

That  do  renown  this  city. — Shakspeake. 

luusfeum  ante  omnia. — ^A^irgil. 

I  LKFT  my  reader  at  tlie  close  of  the  last  chapter  on  the  banks, 
of  the  Flora,  on  the  road  from  Saturnia  to  Pitigiiano.  I  would 
now  convey  him  to  Chiusi,  which  commands  the  entrance  to  the 
wide  valley  through  Avhich 

"  sweet  Clanis  wanders 
Through  corn,  and  vines,  and  flowers." 

'L'he  road  from  Pitigiiano  is  hardly  carriageable  throughout.  It 
runs  through  Sorano,  and  meets  the  high  road  from  Pome  to 
Florence  either  at  Acquapendente,  or  at  Ponte  Centino,  crossing 
it  at  the  latter  place  and  continuing  through  San  Casciano  del 
Pagni,  shirting  the  base  of  the  wild  mountain  of  Padicofani,  to 
Cetona  and  Chiusi.     The  Baths  of  San  Casciano  are  proved  by 


CHAP.  Liii.]  rO.SITION    OF    CIIIUSI.  291 

iX'iiiiiiiis  to  be  of  iincicnt  date'  Juulicoi'ani,  also,  ■wliich  lies 
sixteen  miles  to  tlie  north  of  Acfiua})en(lente,  tlion<;li  not  yet 
recognised  as  an  Etruscan  site,  lias  niucli  the  appearance  of  one. 
It  lies  in  a  natural  pass  between  the  two  mountains  of  Amiata 
and  Cetona,  and  the  eliU'-girt  rock  which  rises  to  the  lun'tli  of  the 
town,  and  is  ci'ested  with  the  ruins  of  the  castle  where  (irhino  di 
Tacco,  the  robber-cliief,  held  the  Abbot  of  Cligny  in  durance, 
till  he  had  cured  him  of  his  ailments  by  a  spare  diet  of  bread  and 
wine,  so  humorously  narrated  by  ])OCcaccio,"  has  so  much  the 
character  of  an  Ijtruscan  site  that  1  would  recommend  it  strongl}' 
to  the  attention  of  anticiuaries. 

Cliiusi,  is  proudly  situated,  as  becomes  the  capital  of  Porsena, 
on  the  crest  of  an  olive-clad  eminence,  which  rises  at  the  southern 
extremity  of  the  great  A  ale  of  the  Cliiana.  In  the  opposite 
direction  it  is  separated  b}'  a  deep  and  fertile  valley  from  a  long 
range  of  wooded  heights  studded  with  towns — Cetona,  with  its 
impending  castle,  nearest  the  eye ;  Castiglione  del  Trinoro  more 
to  the  north  ;  Sarteano  on  the  hill-brow  beyond — all  nestling 
beneath  the  majestic  forest-clad  mass  of  Monte  Cetona.  Still 
further  to  the  north-west,  rise,  on  isolated  heights,  Chianciano 
and  Montepulciano,  apparently  blended  into  one.  All  these  and 
others  beyond  the  range  of  vision,  are  representatives  of  Etruscan 
towns,  without  name  or  fame,  but  whose  antiquity  is  attested  by 
the  abounding  cemeteries  in  their  neighbourhood.''^ 

Chiusi  is  the  representative  of  Clusium,  the  city  of  the 
magnanimous  I'orseua,  one  of  the  most  ancient  in  Italy,  among 
the   Twelve    of  the    Etruscan   Confederation ;  ''  indeed  it  would 

'  Kepetti   (I.   p.  2-25  ;  V.  p.  2.'))  takes  rary.     See  the  Appendix  to  this  Chapter, 
them  for  the  Pontes  Chisini  mentioned  by  ■*  That  Chisium  was  one  of  the  Twelve 

Horace,  Epist.  I.  1.5,  9.  may  lie  inferred  from  her  being  one  of  the 

-  Decam.  X.   nov.  2.     See  the  woodcut  five  cities  which  assisted  the  Latins  against 

at  the  head  of  this  chapter,  taken  from  a  the  first  Tarquin  (Dion.  Hal.   III.   c.    C)l). 

sketch  by  my  friend  Mr.  E.  W.  Cooke,  Il.A.  It  is  further  manifest  from  the  prominent 

•*  Chiusi  is  .5  miles  from  Cetona,  as  many  part  she  took  in  the  war  which  Etruria, 

from  Sarteano,  8  or  9  from  Chianciano,  12  under  her  chieftain  Porsena,  waged  against 

from  Monteiiukiano,  20  from  lladicofani,  23  Home.     Tlie  very  name  of  Clusium  struck 

from  Acquapendcnte,    20  from  Pienza,    48  terror    into    the    Senate  — "  non    unquam 

from    Siena,    88    from  Florence,    22  from  alias  ante  tantus  terror  senatum  invasit ; 

Cortona,   about   35  from  Orvieto,   and   40  adeo  valida  res  tum  Clusina  erat.  magnum- 

from  Arezzo.  que   Porseme   nomen."     Liv.    II.    9.     So 

Polybius  (II.  2'))  says  Clusium  was  three  also  Silius  Italicus  (VIII.  479),— 

daj-s'  journey  from  Home;  Strabo  (V.   ii.  »    ,■  t,  .  ■,       , 

.).-)p\       11     -x    cA/^     .    /•  in/v       -1  Antiquus  Komanis  roccnibus  horror, 

226)    calls    it   800    stadia,   or  100  miles,  ,  ,     •  ,  -d 

'  '  (  iusinum    valgus,    cum,    Porsena   magiie, 

whu-li    is   less    than   the   distance  by  the  iuliebas 

mnilcrn  road,  and  than  that  by  the  ancient       Nequidquam     pulsos     Komaj     impcritare 

\  ia  Ca«sia,  according  to  the  Antonine  Itine-  Superbos. 

u  2 


292 


CniUSI.— The  City. 


[chap.  liit. 


appear   that  for  a  time,  during  the  earliest  days  of  the  lloniau 

Republic, 

'■  The  banner  of  proud  Clusium 
Was  highest  of  them  all. " 

Its  original  name  was  Camars,'  or  Camers,  whence  it  has  been 
inferred  that  it  was  founded  by  the  Umbri,  the  earliest  in- 
habitants of  Etruria.^  AVhatever  its  origin,  it  is  certain  that 
from  a  very  remote  age  it  was  a  cit}'  of  great  might  and  import- 
ance, and  that  it  maintained  this  condition  throughout  the  period 


A  city,  •whose  ruler  headed  the  forces  of 
the  whole  Etruscan  State,  cannot  have 
been  of  second-rate  importance.  See 
Floras,  I.  10  ;  Dion.  Hal.  V.  cap.  28,  34. 
Phitarch  (Publicola)  also  says  Lars  Porsena 
liad  the  greatest  power  among  the  princes 
of  Italy.  There  is  no  reason,  however,  to 
Ijelieve,  that  though  Clusium  on  this  oc- 
casion took  a  prominent  part  among  the 
cities  of  the  Confederation,  she  was,  as 
Dempster  (II.  p.  71)  infers,  the  metropolis 
of  Etruria. 

^  Liv.  X.  25;  cf.  Polyb.  II.  19,  5. 
Niebuhr  (III.  p.  377)  thinks  that  Polybius 
here  refers  to  Camerinum  in  Umbria,  and 
says  Liv-y  remembers  at  an  improper  time 
that  Clusium  was  called  Camars  in  Etruscan. 

There  are  certain  coius  with  the  type  of 
a  wild  boar,  on  both  .sides,  and  the  legend 
KA  or  KAir,  which  are  ascribed  to  Camars, 
or  Clusium.  Yet  the  legend  is  peculiar  in 
running  from  left  to  right,  and  if  the 
letters  are  Etruscan,  the  word  would  be 
KAS.  One  of  those  illustrated  by  Lanzi,  to 
the  legend  ka  on  one  side,  adds  that  of 
RAET,  in  Etruscan  letters,  on  the  other. 
:\luller  (Etrusk.  I.  p  332)  hints  that  the 
K.\s  may  possibly  have  reference  to  Cisra, 
the  native  name  of  Csere  (cf.  Einl.  2.  n.  40) 
—  which  city,  as  he  remarks,  had  certainly 
as  much  necessity  for  coins  as  Clusium  — 
and  that  "  Karaet "  may  find  its  equiva- 
lent in  Cisretc.  Certain  coins,  however, 
with  this  same  t>iie  have  the  legend  ka.m 
in  Etruscan  characters,  and  running  from 
right  to  left.  Lanzi  thinks  the  wild  boar 
was  an  appropriate  type  for  Clusium,  cha- 
racteristic of  the  country.  Saggic,  II.  pp. 
24,  56 ;  tav.  I.  1.  2  ;  Guaniacci,  Orig.  Ital. 
II.  p.  206,  tav.  8  ;  Mionnet,  Med.  Ant. 
1).  97  ;  Suppl.  I.  p.  196.  Millingen,  how- 
ever, has  jironounced  all  these  coins  to 
be   counterfeits.     Numis.   Anc.    Italic,  p. 


1  "0.  There  are  two  other  series  of  coins 
which  have  been  assigned  respectively  to 
Clusium  Vetus  and  Clusium  Novum.  On 
the  obverse  is  a  wheel,  on  the  reverse  an 
anchor,  with  the  mark  of  value  and  the 
legend  ch  or  ciia  in  Etruscan  character. 
Marchi  and  Tessieri,  .Es.  Grave,  cl.  III. 
tav.  7—9  ;  cf.  Dull.  Inst.  1839,  p.  124. 
liut  Lepsius  thinks  the  attribution  of 
these  coins  to  Camars  cannot  be  justified 
on  any  gi-ound.  Yerbreitung  des  Italischen 
Miinzsy stems,  p.  68  ;  Ann.  Iu.st.  1841, 
p.  108. 

«  Cluver.  IL  p.  .'»67  ;  Cramer,  I.  p.  219. 
Miiller  (Etrusk.  einl.  2,  12)  considers  the 
ancient  name  of  the  city,  Camars,  to  be  a 
proof  that  the  Camertes  of  Umbria  had 
once  occupied  it.  Cluver  thinks  that  these 
Camertes,  the  original  inhabitants  of 
Camars,  were  driven  across  the  Tiber  liy 
the  Tyrrhene-Pelasgi,  and  retained  their 
ancient  name  in  their  new  settlement ;  and 
that  tlie  Pelasgi  gave  the  city  the  name  of 
Clusium,  from  Clusius,  son  of  Tyrrhenus 
the  Lydian,  as  Servius  states  (ad  Jin.  X. 
167),  who  however  leaves  its  origin  doubt- 
ful between  Clusius  and  Teleraachus.  That 
Camars  or  Camers  was  an  Umbrian  rather 
than  a  Pelasgic  name  is  the  more  probable, 
as  it  is  evidently  not  derived  from  the 
Greek. 

ilention  is  made  of  these  Camertes  of 
Umbria  by  Livy,  IX.  36  ;  Pliny,  III.  19  ; 
Cicero,  pro  Balbo,  20  ;  Strabo,  Y.  p.  227  ; 
Sil.  Italic.  VIII.  463  ;  Frontin.  Strat.  J.  2, 
2.  Pliny  (loc.  cit.)  also  mentions  a  Clu- 
sioluin  above  Interamna  in  Umbria.  The 
Camers  of  Umbria  is  supposed  bj'  Cramci' 
(I.  pp.  262,  274)  to  have  occupied  the  .site 
of  Camerata,  a  town  between  Todi  and 
Amelia,  but  Cluver  (II.  p.  613)  thinks  it 
identical  with  Camerinum,  now  Camerino, 
on  the  borders  of  Piccnum. 


CHAi>.  Liii.]  HISTORY    OF    CLUSIUM.  293 

of  Etrusciin  iiulependence.  Though  A'irgil  represents  it  as 
assistmg  j^Enens  against  Turniis,'''  the  earHest  notice  of  it  that 
can  he  regarded  as  historical  is  that  together  r  ith  Arretium, 
A'ohiterne,  IvuselLe,  and  Yetulonia,  it  sent  aid  to  the  Latins 
against  Tarquinius  Priscus.^  We  hear  no  more  of  it  till  the 
'I'arquins,  on  their  expulsion  from  Home,  induced  Porsena,  its 
king  or  chief  Lucumo,  to  espouse  their  cause.  That  war,  its 
stirring  events,  its  deeds  of  heroism,  are  among  the  cherished 
memories  of  our  boyhood,  and  need  no  record  here.  Yet  modern 
criticism  snatches  from  us 

"  Those  old  credulities  to  nature  dear," 

and  would  have  us  regard  the  deeds  of  Horatius,  Scfevola,  Clwlia, 
and  l*ublicola,  as  mere  fictions  of  the  old  lioman  minstrels,  sung 
in  the  heroic  "  La}'  of  the  Tarquins."^ 

"When  Clusium  next  appears  in  history  it  is  as  the  occasion  of 
the  destruction  of  Pome  by  the  Gauls.  It  was  in  the  year  3G3 
(B.C.  391),  just  after  the  capture  of  Yeii,  that  one  Aruns,  a  native 
of  Clusium,  having  been  dishonoured  by  a  j'outhful  Lucumo,  his 
pupil,  who  had  debauched  his  wife,  and  not  being  able  to  obtain 
justice  from  the  law,  owing  to  the  young  noble's  rank  and 
influence  in  tlie  state,  determined  to  have  his  revenge,  even  at 
the  sacrifice  of  his  country.  The  prototype  of  Count  Julian, 
who  for  vengeance  sold  Spain  to  the  Moslem,  he  induced  the 
Senonian  Gauls  to  take  up  his  cause,  tempting  them  by  the 
figs,  the  oil,  and  above  all  the  rich  wine  of  Tuscany — the  royal 
Montepulciano,  it  may  have  been — to  march  against  Clusium. 
Tiie  citizens,  terrified  at  the  strange  and  ferocious  aspect,  and 
the  vast  hosts  of  these  unlooked-for  foes,  sent  to  beg  succour  of 
Pome,  though  bound  to  her  bv  no  tie  of  friendship  or  alliance. 
Flattered  l)y  this  compliment  to  their  power  and  martial  spirit, 
the  Pomans  in  an  evil  hour  interfered,  and  diverting  the  fury  of 
the  Gaulish  hordes  from  Clusium  to  themselves,  opened  the  way 
for  the  capture  and  destruction  of  the  Seven-hilled  Cit}-.^ 

In   what   year    Clusium    fell   under   the    Roman  yoke   is    not 

'  Mn.  X.  IC)?.  miracles,    wliirli    vere    they    not    in    our 

"  Dion.  Hal.  III.  c.  .'>!.  annals    would    now-a-days    be    accounted 

'•■  Nieljulir  (I.  p.  r<51)  maintains  that  of  fables." 
this   war,    from    beginning    to   end,    not  a  ^  Liv.  V.   33,    35  ;  Dion.    Hal.    Excerp. 

single  incident  can  i)ass  for  historical.      It  IVIai.  XII.  24,   25  ;  Flor.  I.  13  ;  Plut.   Ca- 

is  evident  that  the  ancients  themselves  had  nullus  ;  Diod.  Sic.  XIY.  p.  321,  ed.  llhod. 

some  such    susjiicion,   for    Florus    (I.    10)  Dionysius'   version  of  the  story  of  Aruns 

speaks  of  the  heroes    as    "  iirodigies   and  ditlers  somewhat  from  that  of  Livy. 


294  CHIUr<I.— The  City.  [chap.  lhi. 

recorded;  not,  however,  immediately  after  the  fatal  rout  of  the 
Etruscans  in  the  year  445  (b.c.  309)  at  the  Yadimonian  Lake, 
though  Pcrusia  was  in  consequence  compelled  to  surrender ;  - 
for  in  the  year  4-39  (n.c.  295)  a  Eoman  legion  was  left  before 
Clusium,  during  the  war  with  the  Etruscans,  and  was  there  cut 
to  pieces  by  the  Senonian  Gauls,  their  allies.^  In  the  same  year 
also,  after  the  great  rout  of  the  Gauls  and  Sanniites  in  the 
tenitory  of  Sentinum,  the  Clusiui,  in  conjunction  with  the 
Perusini,  sustained  a  defeat  from  On.  Fulvius  the  Roman 
propraetor. ^  We  hear  no  more  of  Clusium  in  the  time  of 
Etruscan  independence  ;  for  the  next  notice  of  it  is  that  the 
Gauls  marched  a  third  time  to  this  city,  just  before  their  defeat 
near  Telamon  in  529.'  Clusium,  with  the  other  cities  of  Etruria, 
assisted  Eome  in  the  Second  Punic  AVar,  supplying  the  fleet  of 
Scipio  with  coni,  and  fir  for  ship-building.^  More  than  a 
century  later  Sylla  defeated  an  army  of  his  foes  near  Clusium, 
which,  it  is  probable,  had  joined  others  of  the  Etruscan  cities  in 
espousing  the  cause  of  Marius."  Inscriptions  prove  Clusium  to 
have  continued  in  existence  under  the  Empire  ;  and  she  seems, 
unlike  many  of  her  fellows,  never  to  have  been  utterh'  desolated 
or  deserted,  but  to  have  preserved  lipr  name  and  site  fi'om 
the  remotest  antiquity  to  the  present  da}'.*  Yet  so  fallen  and 
reduced  was  this  illustrious  city  in  the  middle  ages,  pnncipally 
through  the  pestilent  vapours  of  the  neighbouring  lakes  and 
marshes,  that  for  eight  centuries  and  more,  says  Repetti,  she 
might  be  called  "  a  city  of  sepulchres."  Chiusi  is  even  cited  by 
Dante  as  an  instance  of  the  melancholy  decay  of  cities — 

Se  tu  riguardi  Luni  ed  Urbisaglia 

Come  sou  ite,  e  come  se  ne  vanno 
Diretro  ad  esse  Chiusi  e  Sinigaglia, 

Udir  come  le  schiatte  si  disfanno, 
Xon  ti  parra  nuova  cosa  ne  forte, 

Poscia  che  le  cittadi  termine  hanno. 

-  Liv.  IX.  39,  40.  statue  to  Sylla,  two  years  after  this  battle, 

3  Liv.  X.  25,  26.  or  80  b.c.     Repetti,  I.  p.  714. 

■•  Liv.  X.  30.  *  Repetti  thinks  the  colony  of  Clusium 

■'  Polyb.  II.  25.  Novum   spoken  of  by  Pliny   (III.   8)  was 

6  Liv.  XXVIIL  45  ;  cf.  Sil.  Ital.  VIII.  established  by  Sylla.  Clusium  is  mentioned 
479.  The  grain,  indeed,  of  Clusium  was  also  by  Ptolemy  (p.  72,  ed.  Bert.),  and  by 
celebrated  for  its  whiteness.  Columella,  the  Antonine  and  Theodosian  Itineraries, 
de  Re  Rustica,  II.  C  ;  cf.  Martial,  XIII.  The  catacombs  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
8,  Chiusi,  moreover,  prove  its  existence  in  the 

7  Vel.  Paterc.  II.  28  ;  Appian.  P>ell.  Civ.  early  ages  pi  the  Christian  era  ;  which  is 
I.  89.  An  inscrii)tion  has  been  found  confirmed  by  the  Church  of  S.  Mustiola, 
which    shows    that    the    Clusini    raised    a  built  in  the  year  765. 


<:hap.  liii.]  ETRUSCAN    WALLS    OF    CLUSIUM.  2[)5 

Since  the  draining  of  the  Val  di  Chiana,  slie  lias  risen  fi'oni 
her  low  estate,  and  though  she  no  longer  holds  her  head  proudly 
among  the  cities  of  Itah',  she  has  an  air  of  snugness  and  respec- 
tability, with  two  or  three  thousand  inhabitants,  and  an  inn,  the 
Leon  d'Oro,  of  more  than  ordinary  by-road  comfort. 

In  his  excursions  to  the  numerous  and  widely  scattered  points 
of  Etruscan  interest  around  Chiusi,  the  visitor  cannot  do  better 
than  have  at  his  elbow  Pietro  Foscoh),  better  known  by  his 
■sobriquet  Mignolino,  a  veteran  excavator,  whose  skill  has  been 
tested  in  all  parts  of  Etruria,  and  who  can  claim  to  have  made 
all  the  most  important  discoveries  of  the  last  thirt}-  years.  1 
have  also  made  proof  of  his  ability  in  Sicily. 

Chiusi  retains  few  traces  of  Etruscan  times  on  her  site,  beyond 
the  contents  of  her  INIuseum,  drawui  from  the  sepulchres  around. 
Of  her  ancient  fortifications  some  fragments  are  extant,  but  these 
are  not  sufficiently  abundant  or  continuous  to  mark  the  precise 
extent  or  limits  of  the  city,  which  must  be  determined  rather  by 
the  nature  of  the  gTound.  Where  still  standing,  they  form  the 
foundations  of  the  medieval  walls,  A  fragment  of  walling 
beneath  the  Duomo,  near  the  Porta  delle  Torri,  or  di  Pacciano, 
composed  of  rectangular  blocks  of  travertine,  without  cement,  is 
pointed  out  as  Etruscan,  but  it  is  a  mere  reconstruction  of  the 
original  walling.''  The  best  portion  of  the  ancient  walls  is 
beneath  the  Prato,  or  public  promenade.  This  is  also  of  traver- 
tine, of  similar  and  rather  more  regular  masomy ;  but  still  of 
small  blocks,  rarely  exceeding  three  feet  in  length,  and  never  so 
juucli  as  two  in  height.^  It  can  be  seen  from  the  Giardmo 
Paolozzi,  adjoining  the  Prato.  Beneath  this  garden,  which 
:seems  the  site  of  the  ancient  Acropolis,  and  is  still  called  La 
Eortezza,  are  some  buttresses  of  Roman  work,  under  which  are 
also  a  few  courses  of  the  earlier,  or  Etruscan  masonry. 

The  stvle  of  all  these  fragments  is  verv  similar  to  that  of 
Perugia  and  Todi,  and  ver}'  unlike  that  of  the  more  northern 
cities — Fiesole,  Volterra,  or  Cortona;    the  blocks  being  much 


'  I  am  surprised  to  find  Rcpetti  (I.  p.  stone    containing   marine   deposits,   which 

720)  describing  this  masoni-y  as  "of  lai'ge  prevails  in  this  district  of  Italy, 
polygons  ;  "  when  it  is  as  horizontal  as  that  ^  Though  of  opus  qiiadratum,  it  is  not 

«t   Teriigia  or  Tudi,  though  not  so  regular.  Isodomoii ,    and   the    blocks   are    arranged 

He  also  errs  in  calling  it  the  only  fragment  without  any  symmetrical  relation  to  those 

of  the   Etruscan   walls.       The    travertine  above  or  beneath  them.     The  finest  portion 

must  have  been  brought  from  a  distance,  is  below  a  brick  arch,  at  the  further  end 

probably  from   Sai-teano,   for  the   hill   of  of  the  Prato.     The  courees  vary  from  15  ti) 

Chiusi  is  composed  of  that  friable  sand-  21  inches  in  height. 


296  CHITSI.— TuE  City.  [chap.  liii. 

smaller,  the  courses  more  uniform,  and  the  sharpness  of  the 
edges,  preserved  by  the  hardness  of  the  travertine,  giving  the 
whole  a  much  more  modern  appearance.  In  the  Piazza  del 
Duomo,  and  in  many  of  the  buildings  of  the  city,  as  weU  as  in 
the  fences  without  the  walls,  are  large  blocks  of  travertine, 
probably  taken  from  the  ancient  fortifications,  as  this  is  not  a 
local  stone. 

There  are  many  relics  of  early  days  scattered  through 
Chiusi.  Fragments  of  architectural  decorations  are  built  into 
the  houses.  Over  a  well  in  the  main  street  is  a  sphere  of  stone 
resting  on  a  cube,  with  a  sphinx,  in  a  quaint  style,  canned  on 
each  side.  On  Signor  Paolozzi's  gate  are  two  similar'  monu- 
ments, with  lions  instead  of  sphinxes."  But  on  the  Prato  hard 
b}'  ai'e  numerous  sarcoi)hagi  and  urns,  and  a  menagerie  of  wild 
beasts,  more  like  those  with  which  "  the  learned  stock  the  con- 
stellations "  than  anything  that  ever  trod  terrestrial  desert — the 
most  uncouth  savageness  beheld  or  conceived,  grotesque  carica- 
tures of  ferocity — the  majesty  of  the  king  of  beasts  relaxed  to  a 
ridiculous  grin. 

In  the  Paolozzi  garden  is  a  so-called  "  Labvrinth."  The 
mere  word  brought  to  mind  the  celebrated  Tomb  of  Porsena, 
described  by  Yarro  as  existing  at  Clusium,  and  I  eagerly  rushed 
■  into  the  cavern.  To  my  disappointment  it  was  merely  a  natm'al 
hollow  in  the  rock  of  some  extent,  but  without  a  sign  of  laby- 
rinthine passages.'^  But  in  the  cliffs  of  this  ver}'  height,  imme- 
diately beneath  the  Palazzo  Paolozzi,  are  some  singular  subter- 
ranean ji'^ssages,  running  far  into  the  heart  of  the  rock,  yet 
being  half  filled  with  water  they  haA-e  never  been  penetrated. 
It  is  asserted,  however,  that  there  are  seven  of  these  strade, 
but  whether  running  parallel  like  the  Sette  Sale  at  Borne, 
or  radiating  from  one  jDoint  like  the  Seven  Dials  of  the  Great 
Metrojiolis,  I  could  not  ascertain.  The  only  passage  I  saw  was 
hollowed  in  the  sandy  rock,  and  rudely  shaped  into  a  vault ;  the 
marks  of  the  chisel  being  very  distinct.  Bumour  says  there  are 
many  other  such  passages  ;  the  whole  city,  indeed,  is  sui)posed  to 
be  undermined  by  them,  and  by  subterranean  chambers,  though 

-  Inghiiami  (Mon.   Etrns.    VI.    tav.    p.  cylinder  on  the  tomb  of  Archimedes,   at 

5)  gives  a  plate  of  a  similar  monument,  Syracuse — i.e.,  on  the  real  sepulchre  dis- 

■Rith  a  sphinx,  a  lion,  a  griffon,  and  an  covered  by  Cicero  (Tusc.  Quiest.   V.  231, 

augur  with  his   lituus,   on   each  side   re-  not    that    shown    now-a-days    under  the 

spectively — all  of  very  archaic  art.     These  name. 

■were  proliably  Etruscan   cippi,    or  tomb-  •*  In  this  garden  are  remains  of  Romaa 

stones.     They  remind  us  of  the  sphere  and  baths. 


CHAP.  LIU.]    A  LABYEINTH— THE   JEWELLERS'   FIELD. 


2D^ 


■\vliiit  purpose  they  may  have  served  is  a  mystery  no  one  pretends 
to  liave  fathomed.^ 

Beneath  the  city  to  the  east  is  a  slope  called  "Botusso,"  or 
"  Campo  degli  Orefici,"  the  "Jewellers'  Field,"  from  the  nmnber 
of  scarahei  there  brought  to  light.  Yov  these  valuable  relics  of 
ancient  days,  which  are  found  much  more  abundantly  at  Chiusi 
than  on  any  other  Etruscan  site,  are  ver}'  rarely  the  produce  of 
her  tombs,  or  the  fruit  of  systematic  research,  but  are  generally 
the  accidental  discoverv  of  the  husbandman — 

"  the  unlettered  i)loughboy  wins 
The  casual  treasure  from  the  furrowed  soil." 

After  heav}'  rains  especially,  something  new  in  the  shape  of 
Etruscan  scarahei  is  almost  always  brought  to  light.  AVhy  these 
gems  should  be  more  abundant  on  this  spot,  than  on  au}'  other 
around  the  town,  is  matter  for  speculative  inquhy.  But  there 
can  be  no  doubt  that  this  branch  of  ancient  Etruscan  art  was 
carried  on  extensively,  if  not  even  exclusively,  at  Clusium  and 
its  neighbourhood.  Other  articles  of  jeweller}',  however,  such 
as  acorns  of  gold,  and  cliaplets  of  laurel  or  other  leaves  in  the 


^  One  entrance  to  these  underground 
"streets"  is  near  the  church  of  San  Fran- 
cesco. Another  is  on  the  Piazza  del  Duomo. 
In  1830,  in  lowering  tliis  Piazza,  four 
round  holes,  2  feet  in  diameter,  were 
discovered,  which  had  been  formed  for 
lighting  a  square  chamber,  vaulted  over 
with  great  blocks  of  travertine,  and  divided 
by  an  arch.  It  was  nearly  full  of  earth, 
but  in  it  were  found  a  lai'ge  fla.sk  of  glass, 
fragments  of  swords,  pieces  of  marble,  and 
broken  columns.  Al)out  100  feet  distant 
was  another  iightdiole,  giving  admission  to 
a  .second  vault,  about  27  feet  deep,  but  so 
large  that  its  extent  could  not  be  a.scer- 
tained.  In  the  Bisliop's  garden,  close  to 
tlie  Piazza,  another  subterranean  chamber, 
very  profound  and  spacious,  was  opened, 
and  on  one  side  of  it  was  a  small  well. 
Signor  Flavio  Paolozzi  also  discovered  two 
underground  streets,  about  3  feet  wide  and 
10  high,  partly  built  uj)  with  large  squared 
blocks  of  travertine.  Capitano  Sozzi  took 
them  to  be  conduits,  because  many  pipes 
of  lead  and  tcrra-cotta  were  found  intliem, 
and  because  water  still  choke<l  them.  IJull. 
Inst.  1831,  pp.  90-102.  In  1SG8,  Signor 
<iamurrini  saw  a  number  of  subterranean 
passages  on  this  spot,  winding  aLout  in  the 


heart  of  the  hill,  ascending  and  descending, 
in  parts  lying  in  two  or  tliree  tiers,  some 
flanked  with  uncemented  masonry,  othei-s 
vaulted  with  a  (xothic  arch,  and  some 
lighted  here  and  there  by  shafts  sunk  from 
the  ground  above.  Bull.  Inst.  1868,  p. 
133.  Under  the  house  of  the  Nardi  Dei  is 
also  known  to  be  a  passage,  opened  fifty  or 
sixty  yeai-s  since  ;  and  it  is  .said  that  a 
reverend  prelate  once  ventured  to  penetrate 
it,  but  found  it  so  labyrinthine,  that  had 
he  not  provided  himself  with  a  clue,  he 
would  never  have  seen  again  the  light  of 
day.  It  is  by  some  j^retended  that  these 
subterranean  passages  form  part  of  the 
Labyrinth  of  Por.sena,  but  this  opinion  has 
no  foundation.  They  are  much  more 
probably  connected  with  the  system  of 
sewerage  ;  and  the  subterranean  chambers 
may  have  been  either  cellars  to  houses  or 
favhs(e  to  temples.  However,  the  idea  of 
a  labyrinth  has  been  connected  with  such 
passages  for  more  than  a  century  past. 
See  ]\Iaffei,  0.ssei-\'.  Letter.  V.  p.  311. 
From  the  description  given  they  seem  to 
bear  a  close  analogy  to  the  IJuche  de' 
Saracini  which  are  hollowed  in  the  base  of 
the  hill  on  which  Volterra  stands.  I't 
supra,  p.  158. 


29S  CniUSI.— The  City.  [chap.  liii. 

same  metal,  like  those  of  Vulei,  are  discovered  in  the  tombs  of 
Chiiisi. 

Foitunately  for  the  sight-seer,  the  produce  of  the  Etruscan 
tombs  of  Chiusi,  formerly  scattered  in  numerous  private  collections, 
has  recently  been  gathered  by  the  ^lunicipality  into  one  public 
museum.  The  largest  and  most  important  of  those  private  col- 
lections, the  property  of  Signor  Ottavio  Casuccini,  was  sold  in 
1863  to  the  Municipality  of  Palenno.  That  of  Signor  Paolozzi, 
Avhich  ranked  next  in  importance,  has  been  incorpi^rated  with  the 
Museum.  There  were  also  collections  of  miscellaneous  character 
in  the  hands  of  the  Conte  Ottieri,  Don  Luigi  Dei,  the  Signori 
Luecioli,  Ciofi,  Sozzi,  and  (lalanti.  The  Bishop  had  a  number 
■of  choice  vases,  the  prodiice  of  his  own  excavations,  and  the 
canons  Pasquini  and  Mazzetti,  and  the  arch-priest  Carducci, 
besides  the  ordinary  articles,  were  particularly  rich  in  scarabci. 
None  of  these  collections  now  exist.  The  Bishop's  vases  are  in  the 
!Museum,  and  the  only  private  collections,  and  they  are  of  a  very 
limited  character,  are  those  of  the  Conte  della  Ciaja,  and  the 
Signori  Giovanni  Paolozzi  and  Remigio  Mazzetti.  Besides  these, 
Signor  Innocenzo  Xardi  has  a  few  vases,  and  Signor  Yincenzo 
<iiulietti  some  urns.  None  of  these  collections  are  difheult  of 
access.  A  request  from  a  stranger  will  meet  witli  prompt  atten- 
tion, and  he  will  be  received  with  all  that  courtesy  which  dis- 
tinguishes the  Tuscan  character.  As  these  gentlemen  are  willing 
to  part  with  their  treasures,  no  offence  will  be  given  by  inquiring 
the  prices.' 

MusEO  Civico  Chiusino. 

Open  ever}-  day  at  the  visitor's  pleasure.  Admission  half  a  lira  ; 
besides  a  small  fee  to  the  custode. 

This  Museum  has  been  formed  withm  the  last  few  years,  since 
the  sale  of  the  Casuccini  collection.  It  comprises  the  greater 
part  of  the  Paolozzi  collection,  together  with  the  vases  formerly 
in  the  jiossession  of  the  Bishop  of  Chiusi,  and  the  urns  from 
those  tombs  Avhicli  have  recently  been  closed.  The  painted 
vases  and  bronzes  are  exhibited  in  a  separate  building.  All  the 
other  articles  are  crammed  into  two  rooms. 

The  outer  room  is  devoted  t(j  urns  and  sarcophagi.     The  first 

''  Notices  of  the  articles  discovered  during       cations  of  the  Arelueoiogical  Institute  of 
the  last  forty-eight  years  at  Chiusi  and  its       Home,  passim. 
neighbourhood  will  be  found  in  the  ijubli- 


CHAi>.  1,111.]  TnE    ETRUSCAN    MUSEUM.  295) 

object  that  strikes  tlie  e^ye  on  entering  is  an  excellent  niarLlc 
Lust  of  Augustus,  with  the  skirt  of  his  toga  covering  his  head — 
<lug  up  in  the  Bishop's  garden.  In  strong  contrast  with  this 
specimen  of  lloman  art,  there  stands  by  its  side  a  canopiis  of 
red  clay,  the  bust  of  a  woman,  with  movable  head,  wearing  ear- 
rings of  gold,  and  with  handles  in  the  place  of  arms,  resting  in  a 
chair  of  terra-cotta.  It  contains  the  ashes  of  the  lad}'  whom  it 
portrays,  and  the  head  and  face  are  pierced  with  minute  holes 
for  the  escape  of  the  effluvium.  liike  all  monuments  of  this 
Egyptian  character,  it  is  of  very  archaic  art,  and  was  found  in 
one  of  the  "  ziri ''  or  well-tombs,  tlie  earliest  sepulchres  nf 
Ktruscan  Chiusi.  On  n  scjuare  lionian  altar  in  the  same  group, 
rests  a  sitting  figure  of  a  woman,  twenty  inches  high,  a  miniature 
of  that  which  used  to  excite  so  much  astonishment  in  the  Museo 
Casuccini.  Like  that,  it  is  of  clspo,  or  fetid  limestone,  a  yellow- 
ish brittle  material,  much  used  in  the  most  ancient  monuments 
of  this  district.  The  figure  is  represented  sitting  in  a  curule 
■(•hair,  holding  out  a  pomegranate  with  her  left  hand,  as  if  to 
])resent  it  to  whoever  approached  her.  Her  head  is  encircled 
with  a  fillet,  but  is  not  movable  as  usual.  Like  the  raiwpus, 
this  figure  is  at  once  the  effigy  of  the  deceased  and  the  urn 
<!ontaining  her  ashes,  which  Avere  found  within  it ;  in  truth  it  is 
but  a  variet}''  of  the  Etruscan  practice  of  representing  the  dead 
reclining  upon  their  own  coffins/'  It  is  in  excellent  preservation. 
Etruscan  statues  in  stone,  be  it  observed,  whether  sitting  or 
standing,  are  extremely  rare,  most  of  those  extant,  being  either 
of  bronze  or  of  terra-cotta.  In  the  inner  room,  however,  is  a 
half-length  female  figure  in  fetid  limestone  of  high  antiquity, 
generally  supposed  to  represent  Proserpine.  She  wears  a  double 
chaplet  round  her  head  ;  her  hair  falls  in  a  long  tress  on  each 
side  to  her  bosom,  on  which  her  hands  are  crossed ;  and  many 
])laits  clubbed  together  in  Egyptian  style  reach  down  her  back  to 
her  waist."  Her  eyes  are  large  and  staring,  her  mouth  open,  as 
if  with  wonder  or  alarm,  j'et  neither  feeling  is  expressed  in  her 

®  Micali   (Mon.    Iiied.    p.   1;')2)   rejiai'ds  cause  tlie  soul   was  .supposed    to  lie  coui- 

tlie  position  of  the   figure  in  the  chair  as  mitted  to  her  keeping.     liall.Instit.lS31, 

indicative  of  the  supreme  beatitude  of  the  p.  i>'>.      In   the  faces  of   certain  of  these 

soul.     Inghirami  gives  illustrations    of    a  figures  there  is  an  ideality  which  favours 

very    similar    statue    found    near   Chiusi  Inghirami'.s  view  ;    others   show  an   indi- 

(Mu.seo  Chiusino,  tav.    17,   18),   which  he  vidual    character,    which    seems   to    mark 

takes  to  represent  Proserpine,  and  think.s  them  a.s  portraits. 

the  ashes  of  the  deceased  were  deposited  '   As  in  the  figure  from  the  Isis-tnmli  at 

in  the  effigy  of  the  Queen  of  Hades,  be-  Yulci.     See  Vol.  I.  p.  4;>9. 


300  CHIUSI.— The  City.  [chap.  liii. 

countenance,  which  is  remarkable  for  its  utter  want  of  expres- 
sion. Tliis  bust  was  found  outside  a  tomb  at  Chiusi,  where  it 
served  the  purpose  of  a  stele.  Here  is  also  a  large  winged  sphinx 
of  the  same  material,  having  her  hair  clubbed  behind  the  head, 
in  the  same  archaic  style,  and  she  also  served  the  purpose  of  a 
tombstone. 

From  this  Museum  the  traveller  will  learn  that  the  tombs  of 
Chiusi  and  its  neighbourhood  yield  articles  more  singular,  quaint, 
and  archaic  in  character,  than  those  of  any  other  part  of  Etrmia, 
witli  the  exception  of  Veii  and  Cfere. 

Among  these  early  monuments  of  Etruscan  art  are  several  of 
the  square  or  round  pedestals  of  cij)})!,  sometimes  supposed  to 
be  altars.  They  are  almost  invariably  of  the  fetid  limestone, 
peculiar  to  this  district.  Their  interest  lies  in  being  among  the 
earliest  and  most  genuinely  national  works  of  the  Etruscan 
chisel.  Though  not  all  of  the  same  epoch,  a  characteristic 
archaicism  is  always  preserved  :  the  figures  are  in  very  low, 
almost  flat  relief,  and  with  a  strong  Egyptian  rigidity  and 
severity.  The  style,  in  fact,  may  be  said  to  be  peculiar  to  these 
monuments,  and  in  some  measure  may  be  owing  to  the  material, 
which  would  not  admit  of  the  finish  and  delicacy  of  the  high 
reliefs  in  alabaster  and  travertine.*  The  subjects  are  also  purely 
national — religious  or  funeral  rites  and  ceremonies — public  games 
— scenes  of  civil  or  domestic  life — figures  in  procession,  marching 
to  the  sound  of  the  double-pipes,  or  dancing  with  Bacchanalian 
furor  to  the  same  instrument  and  the  lyre.  There  is  no  intro- 
duction of  Greek  myths,  so  frequently  represented  on  the  sepul- 
chral urns. 

These  j^edestals,  I  have  said,  are  generally  of  c'lspo,  but  here, 
in  the  inner  room,  is  one  of  marble,  proving  that  material  to 
have  been  occasionally  used  by  the  Etruscans  at  a  very  early 
l)eriod.  It  had  a  sphinx  couchant,  but  now  headless,  surmount- 
ing the  cube  at  each  angle.  The  scene  below  is  in  low  relief, 
and  shows  a  dance  of  women,  four  on  each  side,  moving  briskly 
to  the  music  of  the  lyre  and  double-pipes.  All  wear  the  tutulus, 
the  head-dress  of  Etruscan  women  in  the  earliest  times,  with  tunics 
reaching  half  way  down  the  leg,  and  lieavy  mantles,  and  in  their 
attitudes  as  well  as  drapery,  betray  a  very  primitive  style  of  art.** 

**  So  brittle  is  this  stone  that  it  is  rare  even  at  Perugia, 

to   find  a  monument   formed    of   it    in    a  ^  This    monument  has  l)een    illustrateil 

perfect  state.     Such  monuments  are  found  l)y   Mic  ili,    Ant.    Pop.   Ital.  tav.   53,   54  ; 

throughout  the  Yal  di  Chiana,  and  a  few  and  in  the  Museo  Chiusino,  tav,  2 — 5. 


CHAP.  Liii.]  AECIIAIC    STELiE.  301 

Another  cippiis  of  round  form,  and  of  tmvertiue,  is  in  a  later 
style,  but  bears  a  similar  subject — women  dancing  to  the  sound 
of  tlie  sijriiix.  It  now  serves  as  a  pedestal  to  the  large  sphinx, 
already  described. 

Of  similar  character  is  a  relief,  once  forming  the  front  of  a 
sarcophagus  of  cispo,  representing  seven  male  figures  reclining 
at  a  sij»tposiii)n,  one  of  whom,  in  tlie  middle,  playing  the  double- 
pipes,  shows  a  full  face.^  Yet  the  art  is  most  archaic.  The 
figures  have  all  red  borders  to  their  robes,  one  of  many  illus- 
trations of  the  toga  pratexta,  which  the  Romans  received  from 
the  Eti'uscans.^  The  end  of  the  monument  displays  a  pair  of 
sphinxes,  vis-ii-vis,  each  wearing  a  tutuhis. 

I  looked  in  vain  in  this  Museum  for  a  most  interesting 
c'tppus  which  I  remembered  to  have  seen  in  the  Paolozzi  col- 
lection. It  represented  a  death-bed  scene.  An  Etruscan  lady 
was  stretched  on  a  couch,  around  which  many  j^^'^^.ficce,  or 
hired  mourners,  stood,  beating  their  breasts,  and  tearing  their 
hair,  their  cheeks,  or  their  garments,  their  wailings  being  drowned 
by  the  shrill  notes  of  a  suhtilo  ;  while  in  contrast  with  all  this 
extravagance  of  sound  and  gesture,  a  little  boy  stood  leaning 
against  his  mother's  couch,  with  one  hand  to  his  head,  pro- 
claiming, as  clearly  as  stone  could  speak,  the  intensity  of  liis 
grief." 

One  of  the  alabaster  urns  bears  a  relief  with  a  subject  novel 
and  singular.  A  hippocamp,  with  the  body  of  a  Centaur,  but 
with  the  tail  of  a  fish,  is  galloping  in  one  direction,  brandishing 
a  pahn-tree  as  a  lance,  while  a  half-draped  woman  is  escaping  in 
the  other.  A  vase  beneath  the  monster's  feet  suggests  the 
}narriage-feast  of  Peirithoos,  at  which  the  contest  between  the 
Centam's  and  Lapiths  arose.     Strings  of  teeth,  probabl}'  of  Avild- 

'  There  is  an  instance  of  a  full  face  also  another  cippus  from  Chiusi,  once  in  the 

in    a    cippus   in    the    Casuccini  Museum.  IMazzctti  collection,  and  now  in  tbe  Museum 

With  these  exceptions  I  recollect  no  other  of  Berlin.     Abeken,  Mittelitalien,  taf.  8  ; 

instance  of  a  full  face  in  Etruscan  paintings  Micali,    ^Mon.   Ined.  tav.   22.     Bull.  Inst, 

or  reliefs  of  so  early  a  date,  save  in  the  1840,    p.   1.50.     The    prceficcc  beat   their 

case  of  Gorgons,  whose  faces  are  always  so  breasts,  it  is  said,  to  squeeze  out  the  milk, 

represented.  and  tore  their  flesh  to  make  the  blood  flow, 

-  Liv.  I.  8  ;  Flor.  I.  5  ;  Plin.  VIII.  74  ;  because  the  souls  of  the  dead  were  sup- 

IX.  G3.  posed  to  be  pleased  with  milk  and  blood. 

^  This  cippns  has   been   illustrated  by  Seiw.  ad  Virg.    I£.n.  V.    78 ;    Varro,   ap. 

Inghirami,    Mus.    Chius.    I.    tav.    53-56,  eund.  III.  67.     By  the  laws  of  Solou  and 

and  by  Micali,  Ant.  Pop.  Ital.  tav.  56.    It  is  by  the  Twelve  Tables,  women  were    for- 

very  similar  to  a  relief  at  Perugia.     Mon.  bidden  thus  to  tear  their  cheeks,   and  to 

Etrus.    VI.   tav.    Z  2.     But  it  still  more  wail  for  the  dead.     Cic.  de  Leg.  II.  23. 
resembles,    as   regards    two   of    its   sides, 


302  CHIUSI.— The  Citv.  [chap.  liii. 

boars,  are  represented  hanging  in  festoons  along  the  top  of  the 
urn,  above  the  figiu'es. 

A  iilance  round  this  Museum  will  show  that  the  Etruscans  of 
Cliiusi,  as  of  Yolterra,  were  wont  to  burn  rather  than  to  burs' 
their  dead.  The  cinerary  urns  are  most  numerous,  suiTounding 
the  outer  room  in  a  double  tier,  but  of  sarcophagi  there  are  but 
three  or  four  examples. 

The  sepulchral  urns  of  Chiusi  are  usually  of  travei-tine,  or 
sandstone,  rarely  of  alabaster  or  marble ;  yet  are  much  like  those 
of  Yolterra  in  size  and  character,  and  differ  chiefly  in  being 
generally  of  an  earlier  style  of  ail.  They  more  frequently  retain 
traces  of  colour,  both  on  the  recumbent  figiu'es  on  the  lids,  and 
on  the  rehefs  below ;  but  the  polychrome  system  of  the  Etruscans 
is  seen  to  more  advantage  in  the  sepulchral  urns  of  Cetona,  Citta 
la  Pieve,  and  Perugia.  The  subjects  of  these  reliefs  are  veiy 
similar,  often  identical  with  those  of  Yolterra ;  and  were  I  to  give 
a  detailed  account  of  the  "  ash-chests  "  of  this  Museum,  it  would 
be  little  more  than  a  repetition  of  Avhat  has  been  said  of  those  of 
that  city  and  of  Florence.  I  shall  therefore  have  some  regard 
for  my  reader's  patience,  and  confine  my  descriptions  to  a  few  of 
the  most  remarkable  monuments. 

These  urns  of  Chiusi  have  not  so  frequently  subjects  from  the 

Greek  mythical  cycle  as  those  of  Yolterra.     Yet  such  are  not 

wanting.     A  bull  is  represented  overturning  a  chariot  and  goring 

the  horses.     The  driver  is  thrown  to  the  earth,  and  a  Fmy  \\-ith 

a  torch  bestrides  his  bod}'.     It  is  the  death  of  Hippolytus,  whose 

horses  took  fright  at  the  bidl  of  Xeptune.     His  history  is  thus 

quaintly  told  by  Spenser  : — 

"  Hippolytus  a  jolly  huntsman  wa.«. 
That  -wont  in  charett  chace  the  foming  bore  ; 
He  all  his  peeres  in  beauty  did  suii^as  : 
But  ladies  lore,  as  losse  of  time,  forbore. 
His  ■wanton  stepdame  loved  him  the  more  ; 
But  when  she  saw  her  offred  sweets  refusd. 
Her  love  she  tmnd  to  hate,  and  him  before 
His  father  fierce  of  treason  false  accusd, 
And  A\  ith  her  gealous  termes  his  open  eares  abusd  ; 

Who,  all  in  rage,  his  sea-god  syre  besought 

Some  cursed  vengeaunce  on  his  sonne  to  cast ; 

From  surging  gulf  two  monsters  streight  were  brought 

With  dread  whereof  his  chasing  steedes  aghast 

Both  charett  swifte  and  huntsman  overcast. 

His  goodly  corps,  on  ragged  cliffs  yrent, 

"Was  quite  dismembred,  and  his  members  chast 

Scattered  on  every  mountaine  as  he  went, 

That  of  Hippolytus  wa.s  lefte  no  moniment." 


CHAP.  Liir.  1  CINEEABY    URNS.  303 

A  more  coniUKni  snl)ji'ct  is  tlio  Siicrifico  of  [pliifioiioia,  who  is 
borne  by  men  to  the  jihar,  wlicre  tlie  jjriest  poui's  a  libation,  not 
on  her,  but  on  tlie  liind  Avhicli  Diana  has  suddenly'  substituted 
for  her.  Here  are  others  of  tlie  favourite  subjects,  variously 
treated — Paris  kneeling  on  an  altar  and  defending  himself  at'ainst 
his  brothers,  a  Lasa  Avith  a  long  battle-axe,  at  his  side — the 
mutual  slaughter  of  the  Theban  brothers — Pyrrhus  slaying  Polites 
— combats  of  Greeks  Avith  Amazons,  some  of  spirited  design — 
Centaurs  carrying  off  women.  A  combat  before  an  arched  gate? 
in  wliich  a  youth  is  dragged  from  his  horse  b}'  a  wairior,  and  a 
man  and  woman  are  thrown  to  the  ground,  represents  the  death 
of  Troilus,  slain  by  Achilles  at  the  gate  of  Tro}- ;  the  Fury  with 
a  snake,  and  the  Lasa  with  a  torch,  are  Etruscan  features.  A 
most  unusual  subject  is  Laocoon,  wrapt  in  the  coils  of  the  huge 
serpent,  from  Tenedos — 

lUe  simul  maiiibus  teiulit  divellere  nodos, 
Perfusus  sanie  vittas  atroque  veneno  ; 
Clamores  simul  horrcndo.s  ad  sidera  toUit.' 

The  scene  differs,  however,  from  Virgil's  description,  in  the 
snake  being  single,  and  in  introducing  but  one  of  the  old  jiriest's 
sons,  who  lies  dead  at  his  feet,  and  in  representing  three  armed 
men  rushing  up  to  his  rescue.''  On  another  urn  is  the  wooden 
horse  entering  the  arched  gate  of  Troy  ;  Charun  witli  his  mallet 
and  a  Fury  are  looking  on,  rejoicing  in  the  impending  slaughter. 
On  an  urn  of  marble  is  a  spirited  scene  of  the  death  of  l^riam 
and  Cassandra  at  an  altar  on  which  sits  a  Fury  witli  a  torch  ;  for, 
according  to  the  Etruscan  version,  the  daughter  appears  to  have 
perished  at  the  same  time  as  her  father.  In  point  of  art  this  is 
superior  to  most  of  the  urns  in  this  collection.  One  urn  sliows 
Orestes  and  Pylades  sitting  at  the  tomb  of  Agamemnon,  witli 
Jphigeneia  and  Electra  standing  by  them  in  mournful  attitudes.- 

Another  exhibits  a  warrior  scaling  the  walls  of  a  city,  probal)ly 
Thebes,  hard  by  an  arched  gateway  ;  he  is  ojiposed  by  a  soldier 
on  the  ramparts,  behind  whom  stands  a  Fury  with  a  torch. 

Many  of  these  urns  display  combats,  often  at  altars,  sometimes, 
it  may  be,  representing  a  well-known  event  in  classic  mythology  ; 

^  Viig.  il'^ii.  II.  220.  relief   di.scuvered  outside   tlie  Poi-ta  Mag- 

^  All   ancient   writei"s   agree   in  reprc-  giore   at    Rome,    introduces    four    snakes 

scnting    tl;e    number    of     snakes    which  into  a  scene   representing  the    death   of 

destroyed  Laocoon  and  his  sons  to  be  two  Laocoon.     Bull.    Inst.    1862,   ]}.    50  ;    of. 

t<i  which  the  names  of  I'orkes  and  Chariboia  18(io,  p.  11. 

were  assigned  bv  Tzctzcs.     Yet  a  marble 


304  CnirSI.— The  City.  [cuap.  liii, 

sometimes,  an  ordinary  contest  between  warrior!^,  without  any 
individual  reference,  or  illustrative  of  some  unknown  native 
tradition — 

'•  Tho  reflex  of  a  legend  past 

And  loosely  settled  into  form." 

The  ministers  of  deatli  are  generally  represented  at  such 
scenes,  ready  to  carry  off  their  victims,  or  rushing  in  between  the 
combatants.  As  on  an  urn  Avhere  a  winged  Fury  with  a  torch 
sits  on  an  altar  between  the  Theban  Brothers,  dying  by  each 
other's  hands ;  or  where  she  springs  from  the  ground  between 
the  combatants.  Sometimes  demons  of  opposite  characters  are 
present,  both  waiting,  it  would  seem,  to  claim  the  soul.  Charun, 
with  his  mallet,  plays  a  conspicuous  part,  and  is  often  attended 
by  a  female  demon  with  a  torch  ;  as  in  a  scene  where  they  are 
leading  away  a  soul  between  them. 

These  demons  have  occasionally  neither  wings,  buskins,  nor 
anything  but  the  attributes  in  their  hands  to  distinguish  them 
from  ordinary  mortals.  This  Museum  in  truth,  is  an  excellent 
school  for  the  study  of  Etruscan  demonology.  "What  with  urns, 
sarcophagi,  and  vases,  we  seem  to  have  here  specimens 

"  Of  all  the  demons  that  are  found 
In  fire,  air.  flood,  or  underground."' 

Marine  monsters  are  not  wanting — sea-horses — dolphins — 
liipiiocmnin  ;  but  the  favourite  is  Scylla,  here,  wielding  an  anchor 
in  each  hand,  as  if  combating  an  invisible  foe  ;  there,  armed  with 
an  oar,  contending  with  Ulysses  and  his  companions.  She  is 
sometimes  winged,  sometimes  not ;  always  with  a  double  fish's 
tail. 

Xor  is  there  any  lack  of  terrestrial  monsters — griffons,  cen- 
taurs, and  strange  chimreras — Gorgons'  heads,  winged  and 
snaked,  sometimes  set  in  acanthus  leaves.  In  one  such  instance 
the  head  is  flanked  on  each  side  by  a  female  Centaur  in  the  act  of 
rearing,  who  grasps  a  leaf  in  one  hand,  and  is  about  to  hurl  a 
large  stone  with  the  other. 

At  the  further  end  of  the  room  are  two  large  sarcophagi  of 
marble,  one  with  a  male,  the  other  with  a  female  figure,  reclining 
on  the  lid.  The  reliefs  in  both  cases  represent  combats  between 
Greeks  and  Amazons,  but  that  on  the  woman's  cofhn  is  of  better 
design,  and  treated  witli  ?nore  spirit  than  the  other.  Anotlier 
marble  sarcophagus,  near  the  entrance,  is  peculiar  in  being  un- 
finished.   The  recumbent  figure  is  onl}'  roughh'  chiselled,  showing 


CHAP.  Liii.J  TERRRA-COTTA  SARCOPHAGI  AND  ASH-CHESTS.    305 

everywhere  the  niiirks  of  tlie  tool,  and  the  scene  below  is  only 
sketched  out,  i)artl3'  in  fiat  relief,  in  part  mere!}''  deeply  carved. 

In  the  inner  room  is  a  sareo})hagus  of  terra-cotta,  with  the 
recumbent  effigy  of  a  man  on  the  lid,  decorated  with  chaplet, 
torque,  and  ring,  and  with  a  scroll  in  hand.  His  flesh  is  painted 
red,  his  eyes  and  huh-  black.  Th(^  sarco})hagus  has  none  of  the 
usual  reliefs,  but  is  moulded  into  the  form  of  a  l)anqueting-couch, 
with  cuslnons  and  with  legs  of  elegant  form,  and  the  usual 
Inipopodlam,  or  low  stool,  lieneath  it,  to  enable  the  Ganymede  or 
llebe  better  to  replenish  the  goblets  of  tlie  revellers. 

Here  is  also  a  pair  of  small  urns  witli  banqueting-scenes.  On 
each  a  man  and  woman  are  reclining  on  a  couch,  carousing  to  the 
music  of  the  double-pipes,  but  in  one,  the  siibulo  is  also  reclining 
with  them  ;  in  tlie  otlier  he  staiuls  as  usual  at  the  foot  of  the 
couch.  These  urns  retain  traces  of  colour,  and  are  remarkable 
for  their  archaic  style  of  art. 

Another  small  urn,  also  of  very  early  art,  is  in  the  form  of  a 
house  or  temple,  witli  two  lions  couchant  on  the  ridge  of  the  roof, 
and  several  small  figures  painted  on  the  walls  below.  This 
monument  suggests  that  not  only  the  chambers  in  Etruscan 
houses,  but  the  external  walls  also,  Avere  often  decorated  with 
paintings,  a  custom  still  practised  by  the  Tuscans,  and  probably 
derived  from  their  Etruscan  forefathers. 

Hound  the  walls  are  many  cinerary  urns  of  terra-cotta,  found 
in  abundance  in  the  tombs  of  Chiusi.  They  are  miniatures  of 
those  in  stone,  being  rarely  more  than  twelve  or  fifteen  inches 
long,  but  the  figures  on  the  lids  are  not  often  reclining  as  at  a 
banquet,  but  generally  stretched  in  slumber,  muffled  in  togas. 
A  few  of  unusually  large  size  are  even  in  a  sitting  posture, 
decorated  with  very  long  and  elaborate  tor(iues,  and  with  finger- 
rings,  which  for  size  might  be  coveted  by  Pope  or  Sultan.  One 
has  a  graceful  figure  of  a  woman  in  this  posture,  wearing  a  veil 
on  her  head,  and  gathering  its  folds  round  her  neck  and  bosom. 
Her  flesh,  eyes,  and  hair  are  all  coloured  to  the  life.  The  art 
displayed  in  these  large  figures  is  superior  to  that  usually  seen  in 
the  urns  of  stone.  Indeed  these  terra-cotta  monuments  seem  in 
general  of  a  better  period  of  art.  There  is  not  much  variety  of 
subject  on  these  urns,  which  seem  to  have  been  multiplied 
abundantly  from  the  same  moulds.  The  mutual  slaughter  of 
Pol^'neices  and  Eteocles,  and  Jason  or  Cadmus  vanquishing  with 
the  plough  the  teeth-sprung  warriors,  are  the  most  frequent 
devices.     These  little  urns  were  all  painted — both  the  figure  on 

vol,    II.  X 


306  CHIUSI.— The  City.  [chap.  liii. 

the  lid,  coloured  to  resemble  life,  and  the  relief  below  ;  and  many 
retam  vivid  traces  of  red,  blue,  black,  purple  and  yellow.'"' 

Some  of  the  inferior  urns  of  terra-cotta  are  bell-shaped,  with 
inscriptions  in  red  paint.  Here  are  also  large  sepulchral  tiles, 
2  or  3  feet  long,  bearing  epitaphs  in  Etruscan  characters. 
Among  them  is  a  slab  with  a  bilingual  inscription,  Etruscan 
and  Latin.  The  Etruscan,  rendered  into  Ixonian  letters,  would 
run  tlnis : — 

VL.  ALriixi.  xuvi. 

CAIXAL. 

The  Latin  inscription  is 

C.  ALFFS'S.  A.  F. 
CAIXXIA.  NATl'S. 

From  this  it  would  appear  that  the  Etruscan  prcenomcn  "Yel," 
is  equivalent  to  the  "  Caius  "  of  the  Romans.  We  certainl}'^ 
learn  that  the  suffix  "  al  "  is  the  Etruscan  matronymic. 

But  the  most  interesting  among  these  inscribed  slabs  are  two 
which  bear  Etruscan  alphabets.  Thej'-  were  found  in  adjoining 
tombs  in  the  necropolis  of  Chiusi,  yet  appear  to  have  formed  part 
of  the  same  monument.  One  of  them  bears  two  alphabets,  the 
other  but  one.  From  two,  owing  to  the  softness  of  the  tufo  on 
which  they  are  inscribed,  several  letters  have  been  obliterated. 
The  third  seems  to  be  complete,  although  the  earlier  letters  are 
illegible.     In  Greek  characters  tlie}^  would  run  thus — 

AEF  (digamma)  ZH  (aspirate)  eiKAMNn<I)PT. 

This  appears  to  have  been  corrected  by  a  second  alphabet  in 
smaller  characters  inscribed  beneath,  which  adds  ZYX<I>.  The 
separate  one  is  imperfect,  containing  the  first  twelve  letters  only 
of  the  first.  The  peculiarity  of  these  alphabets  is  that  they  all  run 
from  left  to  right,  contrary  to  Etruscan  custom.  They  are  con- 
sidered b}'  Signor  Gamurrini,  who  has  described  and  illustrated 
them,  to  be  of  very  early  date,  both  from  the  form  of  the  charac- 

^  There  was  formerly  a  reuiarkaljlc  doubt  as  to  tlic  Etruscan  Cliaron  lieing  akin 
monument  of  tliis  material  in  the  Paolozzi  to  the  Greek— and  he  was  waiting  to  con- 
collection,  for  which  I  looked  in  vain  in  duct  his  victim  to  the  Gate  of  Hell,  which 
this  Museum.  In  the  centre  of  the  scene  yawned  close  at  hand,  surrounded  with  the 
sat  a  woman  with  a  babe  at  her  breast,  heads  of  wild  beasts,  and  surmounted  by 
taking  farewell  of  her  husltand  who  stood  Furies,  brandishing  their  torches  and 
by  her  side.  Hard  by  sat  Cliarun,  with  threatening  their  expected  victim.  Bull, 
his  wonted  hammer  in  one  liand,  and  an  Inst.  1S40,  p.  153. — IJraun. 
oar  in  the  other—  a  fact  which  removes  all 


CHAP.  1,111.]    THREE  ETEUSCAN  ALPHABETS— BUCCIIERO.        ,'307 

ters,  and  from  the  absence  of  certain  letters  wliich  are  found  in 
the  alphabet  of  Bomarzo,  and  in  Etruscan  inscrii)tions  on  moini- 
nients  of  later  date  J 

The  iinier  room  contains  a  few  good  specimens  of  hacchcro,  tlie 
€arly  and  coarse  black  ware  of  Chiusi  and  its  neighbourhood, 
which  is  peculiarly  Etruscan,  and  has  been  described  at  length  in 
the    account   already  given  of  the  Museum  of  Elorence.^     The 


FOCOLARE — BLACK    ■\VAH.K    01'    CHIUSI. 


great  antiquity  and  oriental  character  of  this  ware  cannot  be 
questioned,'-'  although  there  is  reason  to  believe  that  it  continued 
to  be  manufactured  tlu'oughout  the  period  of  Etruscan  autonomy. 
Tradition  indeed  among  the  Romans  appears  to  have  assigned 
such  pottery  as  this  to  the  earliest  days  of  the  City,  and  to  royal 


use- 


qms 
Simpuvium  ridcre  Numa},  nignnnque  catinum, 
Et  Yaticano  fragiles  de  monte  patellas, 
Ausus  erat  ?— Juvex.  Sat.  VI.  .■]42. 


7  Ann.   In.st.    1871,  ni.    1/50-161;,   tav. 

**  Vide  supra,  pp.  7o-S0,  wlicrc  illus- 
trations of  this  ware  are  also  given.  Seo 
also  Jlieali,  Ant.  Pop.  Kal.  taw.  22-2(i  ; 
Jlon.  Incil.  taw.  28-31 ;  Mus.  Cliius. 
taw.  12,  19-21,  45,  82;  Noel  dcs  Vergers, 
Etrurie  et  les  Etrusqucs,  pi.  17-19. 

'  If  the  early  ware  of  Cmrc  and  the 
co;i.st  shoidd  1)C  referred  to  the  Pelasgic 
inhal,>itantK  of  tlie  land,  rather  than  to  the 
Etruscans,  as  Profes.sor  Lejjsius  is  of  opinion 
(Tyrrhcn.  Pelas.  p.  44),  tliis  of  Clusiuni, 
which  cannot  be  of  inferior  antiquity,  may 
have  a  similar  origin. 

It  is  said  that  this  hlack  ware  is  formed 
of  no  peculiar  earth,  and  that  when  broken 
it  sometimes  shows  a  gradation  of  colour 


from  the  surface  to  the  centre,  where  it  is 
of  the  natural  yellow  of  the  clay.  Depo- 
letti  and  Ruspi,  who  differ  from  the  or- 
dinary opinion  in  considering  it  to  be  not 
merely  sun-dried,  but  baked,  have  conjec- 
tured that  the  black  hue  was  thus  obtained. 
When  moulded,  the  vase  was  put  into  a 
receptacle  of  larger  size  ;  the  intervening 
space,  as  well  as  the  vsvse  itself,  was  filled 
with  shavings,  or  sawdust,  and  the  whole 
plastered  over  with  inud,  so  as  to  prevent 
the  escape  of  tlie  smoke.  Being  then 
placed  in  the  furnace,  the  woody  matter 
carbonising  by  slow  and  equal  heat,  coloured 
the  vase  w-itli  its  smoke.  They  ascertained 
by  experiment  that  by  this  process  the 
desired  effect  night  be  obtained.  Bull. 
Inst.  18:J7,  pp.  28-30. 


308 


CHIUST.— The  Oity. 


[chap.  Liir, 


Oue  of  the  pots  in  this  room  is  of  extraordinary  size,  and  has 
four  handles.  Here  are  also  several  of  the  so-called  focolari, 
which  resemhle  tea-trays  more  than  any  other  utensil  of  modei'n 
times,  and  a  specimen  of  which  is  shown  in  the  woodcut  on  the 
last  page.  The  pot  in  the  middle  is  in  the  form  of  a  cock, 
though,  heing  fore-shortened,  it  is  not  clearly  shown,  hut  the 
beak,  crest,  and  wings  are  visible. 

Particularly  worthy  of  notice  is  an  elegant  kratcr  of  this  black 
ware,  with  two  bands  of  reliefs,  one  of  them  displaying  a  series 
of  bulls,  each  carrying  a  woman  on  his  back,  and  alternating 
with  swans.  The  Greek  myth  illustrated,  and  the  siiperior  art 
exhibited,  which  shows  unmistakable  traces  of  Hellenic  influence, 
from  which  the  ordinary  hncchero  is  fi'ee,  prove  this  kratcr  io  be  of 
no  archaic  period  of  Etruscan  art.  Other  pieces  of  this  black 
ware  of  a  late  date  have  a  metallic  vaniish,  bright  as  if  fresh  from 
the  potter's  hands. 

In  this  collection  are  some  curious  specimens  of  Canopl,  or 
head-lidded  jars,  which  are   almost  peculiar  to   this   district   of 

Etruria.  They  are  of  the  same 
full-bellied  form  as  those  of  Egj'pt, 
but  always  of  pottery,  instead  of 
stone  or  alabaster ;  and  they  are 
surmounted,  not  by  the  heads  of 
(logs  or  other  animals,  but  always 
by  those  of  men,  or  what  are  in- 
tended for  such.  The  jar  itself 
represents  the  bust,  which  is  some- 
times further  marked  by  nipples, 
and  by  the  arms  either  moulded  on 
the  jar,  as  in  the  annexed  wood-cut, 
or  attached  to  the  shoulders  by 
metal  pins.  These  are  all  cinerary 
urns,  and  there  is  a  hole  either 
in  the  crown,  or  at  each  shoulder, 
to  let  off  the  effluvium  of  the  ashes.  The  heads  are  portraits  of 
the  deceased,  though  some  have  imagined  them  to  represent  Pluto 
or  Proserpine,  according  to  the  sex,  seeing  that  the  soul  of  the 
deceased   had  passed  into  the  charge  of  those  deities.^     These 


EXaibCAX    CAXol'lS,    MlSEiJ    CUIUSINC'. 


'  Ingliirami  tliouglit  the  jar  symbolised 
tlie  world,  and  the  head  the  presiding  deity. 
It  is  true  that  in  the  Egyptian  canopi,  the 
lids  are    generally  the   he.ads   of    known 


divinities,  but  from  the  analogy  of  the 
Etruscan  sarcojihagi  and  urns,  and  of  the 
heads  in  terra-cotta,  it  is  much  more  rea- 
sonable to  suppose  them  here  to  be  i>or- 


CHAi'.  Liii.J  ETRUSCAN    CANOPI.  30!) 

jars  evidently  bear  a  close  analogy  to  tlie  sitting  statues,  which 
are  also  cinerary  urns.  The  style  of  art  also  indicates  a  similar 
archaic  period.^  They  are  generally  in  the  black  ware  of  this 
district,  but  a  few  are  of  j'ellow  clay.  The  eyes  are  sometimes 
rei)resented  by  coloured  stones.  Some  have  been  found  resting 
on  stools  of  earthenware ;  others  placed  in  small  chairs,  resem- 
bling in  form  the  rock-hewn  seats  in  certain  tombs  of  Cervetri, 
and  either  of  terra-cotta  or  of  oak  preserved  by  a  calcareous  coat- 
ing;^ these  are  probabl}'  curule  chairs,  indicative  of  the  dignity 
of  the  defunct,  whose  ashes  were  deposited  in  the  vase. 

The  similarity  of  the  canopus  illustrated  in  the  above  woodcut 
to  the  vases  discovered  by  Dr.  Schliemann  among  the  dt^bris  at 
Hissarlik,  which  he  takes  to  represent  the  "  owl-faced  goddess  " — 
0(a  yXavKb)TTL'i  W.di'ivr] — is  striking,  and  is  suggestive  of  the  cinerary 
character  of  those  Trojan  pots.'^  It  may  be  that  the  face  which 
Dr.  Schliemann  takes  for  that  of  an  owl,  is  nothuig  but  a 
])rimitive  attempt  to  portray  the  countenance  of  the  deceased, 
whose  ashes,  if  the  above  suggestion  be  well-founded,  were 
deposited  withm.^ 

Of  bronzes  there  are  sundry  specimens,  mirrors,  patene,  camU- 
hihra,  caldrons,  and  other  articles  of  culinary  or  sacrificial  use, 
votive  offerings,  and  small  figui'es  of  gods  or  Lares,  and  of  the 
chimiEras  whicli  the  Etruscans  delighted  to  honour,  or  which  were 

ti-aits.     "The  great  variety  of  the  coun-  "'  Some  of  the  Etruscan  canopi,  iu  the 

tcnances,'' says  Micali,  "  the  different  ages,  ijlace  of  arms  moulded  on  the  vase,  as  in 

the  various  modes  of  wearing  the  hair,  the  the  woodcut  at  p.  308,  have  handles  at  the 

I'urely    national    character    nf    tlie    phy-  sides,  just  like  some  of  the  pots  illustrated 

>iognomy,  the  agreement  of  the  facial  angle,  hy  Schliemann  (Troy,  jjp.    lOt!,  307),  into 

leave    no    douht  that  these    are  veritable  which  handles,  arms  of    terra-cotta   were 

portraits — so  much  the  more  important,  as  sometimes  inserted.     I  have  seen  notliing, 

they  faithfully  and  without  any  embellish-  however,  in  the  pottery  of  Etruria  like  the 

nient,    show   us  the  physical  type  of  our  upright  horns  on  the  shoulders  of  certain 

forefathers."     Ant.  Pop.  Ital.  III.    ]>.  11.  of  the  Trojan   vases  (Troy,    pp.   3i(,   258, 

Illustrations  of  canopi  are  given  by  luglii-  207,   294),  which  the  DoL-tor  takes  to  re- 

rami,  Mus.  Chins,  tav.  49,  67  ;  Men.  Etrus.  pi-esent  the  wings  of  the  divine  owl. 
VI.  tav.  G.  5  ;  Micali,  Ant.  Pop,  Ital.  tav.  ^  In  certain  instances,  as  in  the  wooJ- 

14,  15  ;  Mon.  Ined.  tav.  33.     See  also  the  cuts  at  pp.  115,  268  of  "  Troy,"  the  face 

voodcut  at  p.  78  of  this  volume.  on  the  pot  is  unquestionably  human,  and 

*  Micali  (Mon.  Ined.  p.  151),  while  ad-  iu  others,  where  the  humanity  is  less  dis- 

niitting  the  canopi  to  be  of  very  eai'ly  date,  tinct,  it  is  not  easy  for  any  one  who  does 

pronounces  the  st;itues   to    be  -da   late   as  not  hold  the  "owl-faced"   theory  to  re- 

the  seventh  or  eighth  century  of   Home.  cognise  the  visage  of  the  bird  of  wisdom, 

Abeken    (Mittelitalien,    p.    275),     on    the  or  to  see  more  than  a  pair  of  very  large 

other  hand,  thinks  the  canopi  not  to  be  of  and  prominent  optics,  and  a  nose  more  or 

the   earliest    days   of   Etruscan   art.     All  less   pronounced.       See    the    woodcuts   at 

analogy,  however,  is  opposed  to  his  opinion.  jip.   171,   214,    258,    283,   296  of  S<^hlie- 

^  Bull.  Inst.  1843,  p.  68.  niann's  "Troy." 


SIO  CHIUSI.— The  City.  [chap,  liii, 

symbols  of  their  creed.  The  most  remarkable  objects  are  two 
square  csclianv,  or  braziers,  with  the  figure  of  a  lion  at  each 
angle,  whose  tails  form  the  handles  to  the  utensil. 

Not  all  the  pottery  in  this  collection  is  of  the  archaic,  un- 
Hellenic  character  already  described.  There  are  si)ecimens  ol" 
figured  vases  and  tazzc  in  the  various  styles  of  Etrusco-Greek  art. 
For  while  Chiusi  has  a  potteiy  peculiar  to  itself,  it  j)roduces  almost 
every  description  that  is  found  in  other  Etruscan  cemeteries,  from 
the  plain  black  or  yellow  ware  of  Yolterra,  to  the  purest  Greek  vases 
of  Tarquinii  and  A'ulci ;  and  it  is  a  singular  fact  that  the  largest 
vase,  the  most  rich  in  figures  and  inscriptions  ever  discovered  in 
Etrnria,  "  the  king  of  Etruscan  vases,"  was  from  the  soil  of 
Chiusi.''  It  must  be  admitted,  however,  that  the  i>amted  ware  of 
this  district  is  by  no  means  so  abundant,  or  in  general  so  ex- 
cellent, either  for  clay,  varnish,  or  design,  as  that  of  some  other 
Etruscan  sites,  though  occasionally  articles  of  extreme  beauty 
are  brought  to  light. 

The  principal  roht  in  pottery  and  bronze  pertaining  to  this 
Museum  of  Chiusi  is  not  here,  but  in  a  house  in  the  main  street 
belonging  to  tlie  ^Municipality.  It  is  contained  in  an  upper 
room,  which  teems  with  ceramic  and  toreutic  treasures.  But  your 
eye  is  at  once  arrested  by  a  strange  monument  of  unbaked,  un- 
coloured  clay,  which  surmounts  a  glass  case  in  the  centre  of  the 
chamber.  It  is  of  so  uncouth  and  extraordinary  a  form,  that  it 
requii'es  some  minutes'  study  to  resolve  it  into  its  component 
parts.  You  then  perceive  that  it  is  a  large  pot  or  jar,  from  the 
lid  of  -which  rises  a  female  figure  of  some  size,  of  most  archaic 
character,  with  her  arms  attached  to  her  body  b}'  metal  juns, 
Avith  one  hand  raised  to  her  mouth  as  if  she  were  kissing  the  tips 
of  her  fingers,  and  the  other  holding  a  piece  of  fruit.  A  long 
tress  of  hair  falls  on  each  side  over  her  bosom,  and  the  rest  is 
clubbed  together  behind  her  head,  and  descends  quite  to  her 
heels,  terminating  in  an  ornament  like  a  huge  ring  and  tassel. 
Her  chiton,  which  is  oj)en  in  front,  is  covered,  both  before  and 
behind,  -with  small  square  compartments  recessed,  so  as  to  fonii 
a  sort  of  check  pattern  incised.  She  rises  Uke  a  giantess  from  a 
circle  of  eleven  Lilliputian  females,  standing  on  the  lid,  like 
herself  in  miniature,  similarly  draped,  tressed,  and  clubbed,  and 
aU  with  their  hands  on  their  bosoms ;  and  lower  still,  ranged 
around  the  shoulder  of  the  jar,  stand  seven  other  figures,  similar 

*  Ut  supra,  ])p.  81,  113  ct  scj.  It  was  found  at  a  spot  called  Fonte  RoteUa,  about  a 
mile  west  of  Chiusi. 


CHAP.  Liii.]         EXTEAOEDINAEY    CINEEAEY    POT. 


311 


in  ever}'  respect,  alternating  witli  the  heads  of  huge  snakes  or 
dragons,  with  open  jaws.  All  these  figures  are  removable  at 
pleasure,  being  merely  hung  on  to  the  jar  by  earthen  pegs.     The 


CINERARY   rOT,    FRuM    CUILSI. 


From  a  Photograph. 


jar  itself  is  a  sepulchral  urn,  and  contained  the  ashes  of  the  lady 
whose  effigy  stands  on  the  lid ;  her  body  is  hollow,  and  the 
effluvium  passed  off  through  a  hole  in  the  crown. 

This   most  remarkable  monument  was   discovered  by  Signer 
Galauti,  in  1842,  at  a  spot  called  II  Ivomitorio,  about  two  miles 


312  CHIU^I.— The  City.  [chap.  liii. 

from  Chiusi  to  the  N.W.  It  Avas  found  in  one  of  the  '^::iri" 
or  well-tombs,  itself  inclosed  in  a  large  jar.  It  stands  about 
three  feet  in  height.  Though  its  details  find  analogies  elsewhere 
in  Etruria,  as  a  whole  it  is  unlike  any  other  monument  now  to 
be  seen  in  that  land,  and  in  the  uncouth  rudeness  of  its  figures 
and  their  fantastic  arrangement,  j'ou  seem  to  recognise  rather 
the  work  of  New  Zealand  or  Hawaii,  than  a  production  of 
classical  antiquity.' 

I  have  said  that  this  urn  is  unlike  anything  now  to  be  seen  in 
Etruria.  But  a  monument  ver}'  similar  in  cliaracter,  though 
differing  in  the  details,  is  in  the  possession  of  Theodore  Fr}-,  Esq., 
of  Darlington,  who  has  kindly  allowed  me  to  illustrate  it  by  the 
woodcut  on  page  311.  I  have  not  seen  the  urn,  but  from  Mr. 
Fry's  description  I  learn  that  it  is  rather  smaller  than  that  in  the 
Chiusi  ^Museum,  being  only  thirty  inches  in  height,  and  having 
only  eight  women  or  griffons  in  the  upper  tier,  and  twelve  in 
the  lower.  The  lid  has  a  hole  in  the  centre,  beneath  a  sort  of 
handle  to  which  the  feet  of  the  principal  figure  are  attached  and 
over  this  the  figure  itself  is  fitted.  Tlie  body,  as  in  the  Chiusi 
monument,  is  hollow,  and  the  cock  or  bird  fits  Avitli  a  peg  into 
the  hole  in  the  crown.  The  pot  was  purchased  at  Ilorence,  but 
was  said  to  have  been  found  at  Chiusi. 

In  the  glass  case  beneath  this  inn  are  some  choice  figured 
vases.  Among  them  is  an  amphora  in  the  Second  stjde, 
showing  Achilles  and  Ajax  playing  at  dice,  with  Pallas  fully 
armed  standing  behind  tliem  in  the  centre  of  the  scene.  The 
reverse  shows  Dionysiac  revels.  Another  amphora  in  the  same 
style,  shows  n.  quadriga  on  each  face;  on  one  side  "  Amphiaraos" 
is  mounting  his  chariot,  on  his  departure  for  Thebes,  and  **  Eri- 
phyle  "  stands  b}'  with  a  child  in  her  arms. 

The  vases  presented  by  the  Bishop  occupy  anotlier  glass  case. 
Most  of  them  are  of  the  Thu'd  style,  with  red  figures.  One 
shows  Hermes  with  caduceus  and  talaria,  between  Hercules 
and  a  nymph.  Another,  of  late  style,  shows  Hercules  bringing 
the  Eryimmthian  boar  to  Eurystheus,  who,  in  his  terror  at  the 
beast,    endeavours   to   hide   himself  in    a    huge  jrltlios   or  jar. 

7  This  urn  is  illustrated  by  Micali,  Mon.  tiquity,  being  supposed  to  have  relation  to 

Ined.  p.  188  ;  tav.  33  ;  of.  Bull.  Inst.  1843,  the  term  of  human  life.     Censorin.  de  Die 

p.   3  ;  Ann.   Inst.  1843,  p.  361.     Micali  Nat.  cap.  XI.  ;  YaiTo,  ap.  eun.l.  cap.  XIV. 

takes  the  small  female  figures  for  Junones  ;  Cicero  calls  seven — numerus  rerum  omnium 

and  reminds  us  that  seven  was  a  sacred  or  fere  nodus.     Repub.  VI.  IS  ;  ap.  Macrob. 

mystic  nuuibcr  among  the  Etruscans,  as  well  Somn.  Scip.  I.  C;  II.  4. 
as  among  the  Jews,  and  other  people  of  an- 


CKAP.    LIII.] 


PAINTED    VASES. 


yi3 


Palliis  follows  her  licro.  On  a  kratcr  Ciissandra  is  taking  refuge 
at  tlie  Palladium  from  the  pursuit  of  Ajax ;  another  woman, 
with  dishevelled  hair,  rushes  in  the  oi)posite  direction.  Many  of 
the  figured  vases  in  this  collection  are  JcijUkcs,  or  drinking-bowls, 
and  re(iuire  particular  inspection,  and  even  handling,  to  distinguish 
the  subjects  depicted  on  them,  within  and  without.  Another  case 
contains  specimens  of  black  hucchero — the  carl}'  ware  of  Chiusi ; 
among  which  a  canopus  of  ver}'  archaic  character  and  rude  art, 
with  handles  formed  of  dragons'  heads,  is  worthy  of  attention. 
There  is  more  than  one  case  of  bronzes — vases — mirrors,  figured, 
and  Boine  gilt,  two  with  ivory  handles — idols — canddahra,  and 
sundry  other  articles ;  among  which  notice  a  bronze  mask — a 
chafing-dish,  or  brazier,  Avith  seven  small  idols  round  its  edge — 
and  a  canopus  of  this  metal  in  a  curule  chair  of  the  same,  all  in 
splujrclatoii  or  hammered  work,  the  plates  being  fastened  to- 
gether with  big  nails,  but  the  head  is  of  terra-cotta,  and  does  not 
seem  to  belong  to  the  body. 

As  in  every  other  collection  of  Etruscan  antiquities  in  Italy, 
public  or  private,  there  is  here  no  catalogue,  and  miless  the 
traveller  have  the  guidance  of  some  learned  friend,  he  is  left  to 
put  his  own  knowledge  to  the  test ;  for  the  guardians  of  these 
treasures  are  mere  doorkeepers ;  and  in  the  Museo  Casuccini  the 
visitor  will  look  in  vain  for  a  ray  of  antiquarian  light  from  the 
custode. 


APPENDIX    TO    CHAPTER    LlJi. 

Note  I. — Via  Cassia.     See  page  291. 


AXTU.M.NE 

It; 

tNERAUY. 

PKUTIXGlcniAN 

Table. 

lloina. 

Roma. 

IJaccanas 

31.   r.    XXI. 

Ad  Sextuiu 

M. 

P.   VI, 

Sutriuiu 

XII. 

Yeios 

VI. 

Forum  Cassii 

XI. 

JJarcaiias 

Villi. 

Volsiiiio.s 

XXVIII. 

Siitrio 

XII, 

Clusiuiu 

XXX. 

Vico  Matriiii 
Foro  Cassii 
Aquas  Passcris 
Yolsiiiis 
Pallia  rt. 
Clusio 

nil. 

XI. 

vim. 

vim. 

Tlie   Pcutiiigeriau    Tulile    in   the  portion    of    tiiis  Via   beyond    Sutriinn   is 
ilcfeetive  and  very  incorrect. 


314  CniUSI.— The  City.  [chap.  liii. 

Note  11. — Tin;  Casuccixi  Collection'.    See  page  298. 

This  Avas  the  largest  private  collection  of  Etruscan  antiquities  in  Italy, 
second  in  the  number  and  interest  of  its  sepulchral  luns  only  to  the  ^Inseum 
of  Volterra.  It  was  the  produce  of  many  a  season's  excavation,  by  Signor 
Pietro  Bonci  Casuccini,  whose  grandsons  sold  it  to  the  Municipality  of 
Palermo,  where  it  is  still  exhibited  in  a  collective  form.  Though  it  is  no 
longer  in  Etruria,  I  must  not  pass  it  by  without  notice,  but  will  point  out 
some  of  its  most  remarkable  momnnents. 

Foremost  in  interest  is  a  female  figure  of  fetid  limestone,  almost  as  largs 
as  life,  holding  out  a  pomegranate  in  her  left  hand.  It  is  singularly  (piai.it 
and  rigid,  with  an  utter  want  of  anfitomical  expression — a  caricature  of 
humanity.  It  looks  like  an  effigy,  not  of  that  form  which  tempted  angels, 
to  sin,  but  of  a  jointed  doll,  or  an  artist's  lay-figure.  Furtlier  examination 
shows  this  stiffness  to  arise  from  the  arms,  feet,  head,  and  even  the  crown 
being  in  separate  jjieces,  removable  at  pleasure,  and  fixed  in  their  places  by 
metal  pins.  The  limbs  were  jointed,  probably  from  the  inability  of  the 
artist  to  can^e  them  from  the  same  block,  or  from  the  brittleness  of  the 
material,  which  would  not  alloAv  of  it.  Red  paint  is  to  be  traced  on  the 
drapery,  sandals,  and  seat,  but  not  on  the  head  or  limbs  ;  female  ilesh  being 
always  left  uncoloured  on  Etruscan  sculptured  monuments  of  this  early  date. 
The  figure  is  hollow,  and  contained  the  ashes  of  the  deceased,  whose  portrait 
it  is  suj^posed  to  exhibit.  This  figure  has  been  stjded  by  INIrs.  Hamilton 
Gray  (Sej^idchres  of  Etruria,  p.  475)  "  tlie  gem  of  Chiusi,"  and  pronounced 
to  be  ''  in  a  beautiful  style  of  art."  It  were  paying  that  lady  a  poor 
compliment  to  suppose  she  took  a  note  to  that  effect.  Her  lively  imagina- 
tion, when  subsequently  recalling  this  figure,  invested  it  with  a  halo  it  does 
not  possess.     This  monument  is  illustrated  by  Micali,  Mon.  Incd.  tav.  20. 

Still  more  uncouth  and  archaic,  though  of  similar  character,  is  the  statue-urn 
of  a  man,  of  semi-colossal  size,  with  loose  head  and  jointed  arms,  sitting  in 
a  cm'ule  chair.  The  upper  half  of  his  body  is  bare,  his  flesh  is  deep  red,  his 
eyes  and  hair  black,  the  latter  trimmed  short  behind  ;  yet,  notwithstanding 
that  his  features  have  been  injured,  and  his  beard  wantonly  hewn  from  his 
cheeks,  his  face  is  full  of  expression,  and  it  was  doubtless  intended  for  a 
portrait.  There  is  not  the  slightest  attempt  at  anatomical  develojiment  ; 
even  the  hair  resembles  a  woollen  ca]),  and  the  figure  bears  nnich  affinity 
to  the  sitting  statues  which  Mr.  Newton  discovered  on  the  Sacred  Way  of 
Branchidte,  though  it  is  on  a  smaller  scale,  and  is  probably  of  not  inferior 
antifpiity.  There  is  a  close  resemblance  between  some  of  the  early  works 
of  the  Etruscan  chisel,  and  those  of  Hellenic  art  of  a  corresponding  period.' 

'  Let  any  one  compare  with  these  tlie  Greek  cemeteries  of  Sicily. 
terra-cotta  figures  of  IMinerva  and  anotlier  A  remarkable  monument  of  this  descrip- 

female  found  at  Athens,  and  illustrated  liy  tion  from  the  tomlis  of  Chiusi,  was  a  group, 

Stackelberg  in  his  Graeher  der  Hellencn,  the  size  of  life,   rei)resenting  a  man  on  a 

taf.  57,  58.     They  are  only  5  or  6  inches  couch,  emliracing  a  winged  genius  who  wiis 

high,  but  are  in  similar  attitudes,  and  of  a  sitting  on  his  hij).     A  boy  and  dog  stood 

very  analogous  style  of  art,  and  are  painted  at  their  feet.      Even  this  was  a  cinerary 

red,  white,  blue,  and  green,  with  the  orna-  lu-n,  for  in  the  drajiery  of  the  couch,  where 

meats  gilt.     Sir  C.   Fellows  gives  a  cut  of  it  was  folded  on  the  man's  thigh,   was  a 

a  similar  figure  in  terra  cotta,  found  in  a  hole  with  a  stopjier,  which  gave  access  to 

tomb  "sar  Al)ydos.     Asia   Minor,    p.    81.  the  ashes.     Dull.  Inst.  1837,  p.  21.    What 

gjfijijar    terra-cotta    figures   of  women    or  has  become  of  this  singular  col&D,  I  cannot 


godde' 


sses  sitting,  are  often  found  in  the       learn. 


CHAP.  MIL]  THE    CASUCCINI    COLLECTION.  315 

Then'  arc  stveral  iiitenstin.ii:  spcciiiniis  df  tlio  archaic  r/y^u'  or  ])C(lcstals  of 
fetid  liinestone,  so  characteristic  of  Chiusi.  They  are  generally  cuhes,  and 
liear  reliefs  on  eacli  face.  One  of  these  monuments  sliows,  on  each  of  its 
sides,  a  couple  of  warriors  on  horsehack,  turning  from  each  otiier.  They 
retain  traces  of  red  colour,  and  are  in  perfectly  ilat  relief.- 

Another  cippus  displays  a  judicial  scene  —  two  judges,  with  wands  of 
otlice,  sitting  on  a  platform,  with  their  secretary,  who  has  stylus  and  tahlcts 
to  take  notes  of  the  proceedings  ;  an  ajqiaritor,  or  attendant,  stands  by  with 
a  rod  in  each  hand.  IJefore  the  heiich  a  warrior  fully  armed  appears  to  bo 
awaiting  judgment.  A  woman  behind  him,  dancing  with  castanets  to  the 
music  of  a  su/mlo,  seems  to  mark  him  as  some  victor  in  the  public  games  ; 
or  he  may  be  a  ■purrhicJicsten.  The  judges  are  consulting  as  to  his  merits  ; 
and  their  decree  seems  to  be  favourable,  for  the  ofiicer  of  the  court  is  pointiiig 
to  half  a  dozen  skins  or  leathern-bottles  beneath  the  j'J'itform,  which,  full 
of  oil,  probabl}^  constitute  his  reward.'' 

A  bas-relief,  not  forming  part  of  one  of  these  monuments,  but  similar  in 
style,  represents  scAX-ral  figures  at  a  baiupiet,  with  hands  and  jxiteixc  raised 
in  that  peculiar  manner  characteristic  of  early  Etruscan  art.''  Another 
fragment  represeiits  a  youth,  with  veiled  head,  falling  to  the  ground."  On 
a  third  relief,  in  this  archaic  style,  is  a  race  of  trirjce,  or  three-horse  chariots — 
a  rare  subject  in  Etruscan  sculjiture.  The  resemblance  of  the  details  in  thi.s 
relief  to  those  of  similar  scenes  in  the  painted  tond)  of  Chiusi  is  remarkable  ; 
though  the  latter  are  not  in  so  early  a  style  of  art.^  Other  fi-agments  show 
races  of  hu/rr  or  fru/cr.  Akin  to  them  is  a  relief  showing  a  contest  of 
wrestlers,  with  a  liorder  of  iloral  adornments,  perfectly  Assyrian  ;  and 
another  with  afoot-race  between  three  naked  youths.  On  the  ground  beneath 
each  stands  a  jar.  A  brabenteti,  or  umpire,  in  front  holds  out  a  bag  or  purse 
to  the  victor,  and  a  boy  rushes  forward  to  offer  him  his  clothes. 

But  the  most  connnon  subject  represented  on  these  momnnents  is  the  death- 
I>ed.  On  one  very  archaic  cippus  of  coarse  stone,  the  cori)se  is  stretched  on 
its  couch,  the  helmet  and  greaves  lie  neglected  beneath  it,  the  relatives  stand 
mourning  around,  the  prceficiK^  or  wailing-wome)i,  arc  tearing  their  hair,  aiul 
the  warriors  comrades  on  horseback  have  their  hands  to  their  heads  in  the 
conventional  attitude  of  grief.  (Jn  anotlier  circular  ciptpus  a  child  is  closing- 
the  eyes  of  its  parent,  while  the  ligures  around  are  tearing  their  hair  and 
beating  their  breasts. 

On  fragments  of  a  circular  cijipus  of  large  size  are  seven  warriors,  marching- 
to  the  sound  of  tlie  double-pii)es  ;  probably  part  of  a  funeral  procession. 
They  are  in  a  very  rigid  and  archaic  style  of  art,  and  in  nearly  tlat  relief." 
One  of  them  is  shown  in  the  woodcut  on  the  following  page.  The  subuh 
is  represented  wearing  the  cojiislruin. 

Another  relief  displays  a  dance  of  maidens,  holding  hands,  all  draped  to 
their  feet,  and  with  their  hair  hanging  in  long  curls  on  thi'lr  shoidders.     This 

2  Micali,   Ant.    Pop.    Ital.    tav.    :,-2,   1.  ^  jjicalj,  op.  cit.  tav.  52,  4  ;  Miis.  Chius. 

Inghirami  (Mus.  Chins,  tav.  1 )  takes  them  tav.  30.     I3eneath  liim  is  an  inscription, 

for  Ca.stor  and  Polhix  ;  but  without  reason,  ^  Micali,    Mon.    Inetl.   tav.   24,  2.     The 

thinks  Gcrlianl.      Bull.  Inst.  1831,  ]>.  54.  (inrt'jcc  have  the  reins  round  their  bodies  ; 

^  Micali,  Mon.  Ined.  tav.  24,  1.    Hellii;;  the  liorses'  tails  are  knotted  ;  and  the  trees 

(Ann.   Inst.  1864,  p.    52)  puts  a  funereal  which  arc    introduced   are    as   much    like 

interpretation  on  this  scene.  ]iaddles  as  those  in  the  painted  tombs  of 

*  Micali,   Ant.    Pop.    Ital.    tav.    58,    1  ;  Chiusi. 

AIus.  Chius.  t;iv.  38.  '  Micali,  j\lon.  Ined,  tav.  25,  1. 


516 


CHIUSI.— The  City. 


[chap.   LIII. 


18  one  of  the  earliest  sculptures  in  this  collection,  of  truly  archaic  character, 
the  drapery  showing  no  folds,  and  the  figures  being  mere  outlines ;  yet  there 
is  a  ehanning  simplicity  and  grace  aliout  thi-  group.     This  was  a  favourite 


KTRl-^CAX    WARRIOU,    MLSEO    CASUCCIXI. 

•subject  on  these  early  iiKinmnents.  On  out-  rippu-f  is  a  dance  of  nymphs,  all 
draped,  four  on  each  side  :  on  aiiotliLr,  a  similar  dance,  but  Avith  only  three  ; 
in  both  cases  the  dance  is  regnilated  by  the  music  of  the  lyre  and  tibicE  pares 
played  by  the  women  themselves.  One  of  tliese  monuments  is  surmounted 
by  a  pine-cone  ;  the  other  by  a  lion  or  spliinx  couchant  at  each  angle. 

Another  relief  shows  a  man  reclining  with  a  pldala  in  one  jiand,  and  a  pen 
or  feather  in  the  other  ;  though  this  has  been  taken  for  a  "  sacred  bough."  ** 

One  of  the  most  remarkable  monuments  in  this  collection  is  a  large 
sarcophagus  of  marble,  bearing  on  its  lid  the  headless  figure  of  a  lady, 
richly  draped  and  ornamented,  holding  a  jiomegianate  in  her  left  hand,  and 
in  too  good  a  style  to  be  of  early  date.  The  jewelry  about  her  neck  is  very 
rich  and  cmious,  and  its  counterpart  in  gold  has  been  found  in  the  tombs 
of  Chiusi.  The  relief  on  the  body  of  the  monumtiit  represents  the  farewell 
embrace  of  a  married  ])air.  He  is  (hsignated  "Lauth  ArillNA,''  in  Etruscan 
characters;  slu'  has  the  feminine  inflexion,  "  AriUNfn  ;"  and  it  is  probable, 
from  the  similarity  of  the  jewelry  in  each  case,  that  this  figure  represents 
the  lady  who  reclines  in  effigy  above.  She  is  gently  dravn  from  her 
husband's  arms  by  a  female  winged  demon,  the  messenger  of  Death, 
whose  name  is  almost  obliterated.  Another  woman,  named  •' Thaxch — "'■' 
— a  contraction  of  Thanchvil,  or  Tanaquil — probably  their  daughter,  lays 
her  hand  oji  the  old  man's  shoulder,  as  if  to  rouse  iiim  from  his  sonow, 


*  jVIicali,  Mon.  Ined.  p.  307 ;  tiiv.  48,  4. 

**  Part  of  her  name  is  obliterated,  Imt 
the  feminine  termination  .  .  ei,  probaMy 
of  Aphunei,  is  remaining.     She  Las  been 


taken  for  the  bister,  and  the  men  for  the 
lirotliei-s  of  tlie  husband.  Wus.  Chius.  II. 
p.  213.  "  Aphuna  "  seems  equivalent  to 
the  Latin,  Aponius,  or  Ajiponius. 


criAP.  Liii.]  THE    CASUCCINI    COLLECTION.  317 

and  remind  liim  of  thu  ties  wliieli  yet  liind  him  to  life.  Four  otiicr.s 
of  his  family  stand  by,  tlireo  of  tlieni  mules,  eaeh  with  a  scroll  in  his 
iiaiid.  One  of  these,  called  "  Larkk  ArilU.VA,"  is  evidently  the  son  of 
the  severed  conple.'  Next  to  this  group  stands  a  female  demon,  looking  on, 
with  some  nondescript  instrument  under  her  arm.-  She  is  named  "  Vanti£." 
In  the  corner  of  the  scene  a  Fury  or  Fate,  called  "  Gulmu,"  with  ilaming- 
torch  on  her  shoulder,  and  shears  in  her  hand,  is  issuing-  from  a  gateway, 
the  portal  of  Death.^ 

The  cinerary  urns  are  vi-ry  iiumemus,  anci  cliielly  of  sandstone,  or  traver- 
tine. Some  of  them  have  much  interest,  but  to  describe  them  sr.r/'/Jiin 
woidd  swell  my  page  ;  I  can  only  notice  a  few  of  the  most  remarkable. 

Among  them  is  a  singular  instance  of  portraiture.  An  elderly  gentleman, 
who  reclines  on  the  urn,  is  represented  blind.  He  seems  to  have  been  a 
noble,  for  he  wears  a  signet-ring  ;  and  as  a  Lucumo,  he  was  probably  skilled 
iu  auginy — perhaps  aTeiresias,  a  blind  seer  of  the  will  of  heaven,  who  knew 
alike  till'  past,  the  present,  and  tin;  future — 

"Os  ijSr]  TO.  T    iovTa,  to.  t    eacro/j.era,  irph  t'  foura. 

Another  urn  bears  the  cHigies  of  a  wedded  pair  reclining  on  it,  as  on  the 
ban(ineting  couch.  He  is  half  draped,  and  both  are  decorated  with  ornaments. 
She  lies  on  his  bosom,  while  he  has  one  hand  on  hers,  the  other  holding  a 
jKifera, — a  specimen  of  Etruscan  comuibials  highly  edifying.  The  relief 
below  disijla^'s  a  furious  combat,  a  contrast,  perhaps,  intentionally  introduced 
to  show  the  tin-moil  and  struggle  of  this  life,  as  opposed  to  the  blissful 
repo.se  of  a  future  existence,  which  the  Etruscans  could  only  express  by 
scenes  of  sensual  pleasure.' 

-V  singular  scene  on  one  urn  shows  two  men  kneeling  on  an  altar,  one  of 
them  holding  a  human  head  in  his  hand,  and  both  defending  themselves  against 
their  foes.' 

On  another  urn  reclines  a  lady,  with  a  vase  in  one  hand  and  a  ponderous 
mace  in  the  other — a  representation  <inite  imique. 

A  patera  is  a  ver}'  common  device  on  these  urns,  and  it  is  generally  set 
between  a  pair  of  2>eltce,  or  half-moon  shields.''  The  favourite  sport  of 
hunting  the  wild  boar  is  not  omitted  iu  these  sepulchral  reliefs. 

'  The   other    males    are  called    "VEii.  the  hair  from   the  head  of  tlie  doomed. 

AuNTNi,"   and    "Larsa "      The  Virg.  Sn.  IV.  698  ;  Stat.  Sylv.  II.  1,147. 

female  is   designated    "  Lautui  PriiNEr."  The  materia!  of  this  monument  is  marble, 

"  It  hairs  some  resemblance  to  the  iustru-  which  is  fuuiid  in  few  works  of  the  Etruscan 

ments  of  torture  used  by  tlie  demons  in  the  chisel  of  liigli  antiquity.    It  does  not  appear 

GrottaTartauliaof  Tarquinii.    Vol.  I.  p.  384.  to  be  from  tlie  quarries  of  Luna.     Caniua 

*  Migliarini  and  Valeriani  think  the  declares  it  to  l^e  from  the  Circaian  pro- 
name  of  Culmu  belongs  not  to  the  Fury,  montor/. 

but  to  the  gateway.    iMus.  Chius.  II.  p.  "ilij.  ■*  Mus.  Chius.  tav.    2'i,   26.     Inghirami 

Mr.   Isaac  Taylor  thinks  this  word  alone  interprets  this  combat  as  Amphiaraas  befora 

supplies  the   key  to  unlock  the  J]tru.scan  Thebes,  with  the  severed  head  of  Menalip- 

language.       Etruscan    Researches,    ]>.    iHi.  pus  iu  liia  hand. 

For  illustrations  sec  Mus.  Chius.  tav.  13,  *  Mon.   Etrus.   I.  tav.  58,  59;  VI.  tav. 

14  ;  and  Micali,  Ant.   Pop.   Ital.   tav.   60.  A  5.     There  are  some  urns  with  this  sub- 

This  monument  i.s  evidently  of  a  late  period  ject  in  the  Jluseuin  of  Yolterra,  ul  supra, 

in  Etruscan  art,  as  is  proved   by  the  atti-  p.  117,   n.  4. 

tudes,  full  faces,  and  (low  of  drapery.     The  •*  The  patera  in  these  scenes,  has  been 

shears  seem  also  an  adoption  from  Greek  taken  by  a  fanciful  writer,  whose  theories 

falde,   whether  .illuding  to  Atropos,    who  distort  his  vision,  to  represent  a  nautical 

cuta  the  thread   of   life  spun  out   by  her  compass  !     Etruria  Celtica,  II.  p.  270. 
sister  Clotho,  or  to  Proserpine,  who  severa 


^18 


CniUSL— The  City. 


[chap.  Liir. 


There  are  some  scpnlcliral  lions  condiaiit  and  a  i)air  of  sphinxes  in  stone, 
with  -wings  curled  up  like  elephants'  trunks  ;  they  were  found  in  the  tombs 
of  the  Poggio  Gajella.     See  the  woodeut  at  p.  3y2. 

There  are  also  numerous  sepulchral  tiles,  two  or  three  feet  long,  bearing 
Etruscan  inscriptions — one  in  the  ancient  style  called  houstrophedon,  rarely 
found  on  the  monuments  of  tliis  people.  Tliese  tiles  are  discovered 
cither  in  tombs  as  covers  to  urns,  or  in  niches  in  the  rock — two  or  three 


THE    ANUBI3-VASE — BLACK    WARE    OF    CHIUSI. 


being  arranged  so  as  to  form  a  little  penthouse  over  a  cinerary  urn , 
and  the  epitaph,  instead  of  being  on  the  urn,  is  sometimes  inscribed  on  a 
tile. 

This  collection  is  particularly  rich  in  specimens  of  hurdirro — tlie  jiriniitivc 
black  ware  almost  limited  to  Chiusi  and  the  neiglibouring  sites,  and  peculiarly 
Etruscan  in  character.  The  most  remarkable  monument  in  this  ware,  and 
the  finest  specimen  of  it  3-et  brought  to  light,  is  a  large  jug  twenty  inches 
high,  studded  with  grinning  masks,  and  banded  with  ligures,  in  a  group  of 
six,  repeated  three  times  round  the  body  of  the  vase.  The  first  of  these 
fiffures,  shown  in  the  above  woodcut,  is  a  monster  in  human  shape  with  the 
head  of   a  beast,  supposed,  to  be  a   dog,  which,  from  its  resemblance  to  the 


CHAP.  Liii.]  TUE    CASUCCINI    COLLECTION.  319 

Egyptian  god,  is  generally  callt'd  Ainil)is.'  Xcxt  to  him  is  a  winged  deity 
])robably  Mereury  the  coiidiictor  of  souls  ;  tlu-u  a  Fury  with  Goigon's  head, 
and  wings  springing  from  her  breast,  is  gnashing  her  teeth  for  her  prey 
and  with  liands  upraised  seems  about  to  spring  upon  it.  Tlie  rest  of  the 
group  represents  a  veiled  female  between  two  warriors,  who  though  in  the 
send)lanee  of  this  world  are  supposed  to  have  reference  tf)  the  next.  Varictus 
are  the  interpretations  put  upon  this  singular  scene;  but  from  the  manifestly 
remote  aiiti(piity  of  the  momnnent,  it  is  probable  that  it  bears  no  reference 
to  any  subject  in  the  Greek  mythical  cycle,  ])ut  illustrates  some  doctrine  or 
fable  in  the  long-perished  creed  of  the  mysterious  P]truscans.'* 

The  collection  comprises  also  some  choice  painted  vases.  The  most  beautiful 
is  a  liijdrki  in  the  best  Greek  style,  representing  the  Judgment  of  Paris. 
The  happy  shepherd  is  not  alone  with  "the  three  Idaian  ladL..,"  as  Spenser 
calls  them,  for  Mercury,  Cupid,  a  warrior,  a  female  thought  m  be  (Enone 
and  a  Victory,  are  also  jireseiit  to  inspect  their  charms.  This  vase  was 
found  in  the  singular  labyrinthine  tinnulus,  called  Poggio  Gajella.''  Another 
beautiful  vase,  a  lr(dei\  represents  the  birth  (if  Kricthonius.' 

"  There  is  no  necessaiy  relation,  however,  off  tlie   (lorgon's   head;    Mercury  and 

to  Anubis  ;  for  tliere  was  a  tradition  among  genius  or  Gorgon  in  front;  tlie  swans  in - 

the  ancients  that  monsters  of  this  descrip-  dicatingthe  neighboui'liood  of  the  Tritonian 

tion  were  common  in  moiuitainous  regions.  hike.     The  DucdeLuynes  saw  in  it  Ulysi^es 

Ctesias,  the  Greek  writer  on  India,  dechired  conducted  by  Circe  or  a  Sibyl  to  the  infernal 

there  were  more  than  a  hundred  thousand  regions,  indicated  by  the  Gorgon,  Fear,  tlie 

of  them.     riin.  VII.  2.     The  head  of  this  Jlinotaur,    and    the    Stymphalian     birds, 

figure,  howev^er,  being  as  much  like  a  bull's  Ann.    Inst.    1834,   pp.    320-3.      Cavedoni 

as  a  dog's,  may  mark  it  as  the  Minotaur,  also  regards  it  as  the  descent  of  some  hero 

which  is  usually  so  rei^resented  on  painted  to  the  lower  world.    Ann.  Inst.  1841,  p.  59. 

vases.  ^  An  illustration  and  description  of  this 

*  Illustrations,  descri]itions,  and  opinions  vase  are  given  by  Dr.  IJraun  in  his  work  on 

of  this  vase  are  given  by  Inghirami,  j\rus.  the  Poggio  Gajella,  Home,  1840.     See  also 

Chius.   p.    20,    tav.   33,  "34  ;  Jlicali,   Ant.  Dull.  Inst.  1840,  p.  148. 

Pop.  Ital.  III.  p.  20,  tav.  22  ;  Bull.   Insf  i  Ann.    Inst.    1841,  pp.   91-98.     Mon. 

1830,  p.    fi3.     Levezow  inteiin-eted  it  as  Iiied.  Inst.  III.  tav.  30. 
Perseus,  attended  by  Minerva,  about  to  cut 


BlUA    FKOM    A    CHARIOT-UACE,    TOMBA    DEL    COLLE    CASUCCINT,    CHIUSI. 

CHAPTER    LIY. 

CHIUSI— C'Z  USIUM. 
The  Cemetery. 

Have  they  not  sword-players,  ami  every  sort 
Of  gymnie  artists,  wrestlers,  riders,  nmners, 
Jugglers,  and  dancers,  antics,  nuuuuiers,  mimics  ? — Milton. 

No  Etruscan  site  lias  more  general  interest  than  Cliiusi.  On 
some  the  interest  centres  in  -walls;  on  others,  in  tombs;  on  these, 
in  nuiseums  ;  on  those,  in  historical  associations.  Chiusi  com- 
bines all,  though  not  to  an  equal  extent.  Her  -weak  point  is  her 
fortitications ;  but  for  this  she  makes  amends  by  her  mysterious 
miderground  passages.  Her  excavations  yield  as  abundantly  as 
those  of  Yulci,  though  a  difterent  roha  ;  her  museums  formerly 
mioht  have  rivalled  that  of  Volterra  ;  and  in  the  extent  of  her 
necropolis,  and  the  variet}',  singularity,  and  rich  decorations  of 
her  sepulchres,  she  is  second  only  to  Tarquinii.  As  regards  her 
painted  tombs,  she  is  certainly  inferior  to  the  city  of  Tarchon 
and  Tages,  and  not  in  innnber  merely  ;  there  is  here  less  variety 
of  style  and  subject.  Nevertheless,  the  sepulchral  paintings  of 
Chiusi  display  scenes  of  great  spirit  and  interest,   ditiering  in 


CHAP.  Liv.]     PAINTED  TOMB  OF  THE  COLLE  CASUCOINI.        321 

many  points  fr<jni  those  of  Corneto,  for  though  they  generally 
fire  less  archaic  in  design,  they  have  more  of  a  purely  native 
character  than  the  wall-paintings  of  Tarquinii,  not  havmg  been 
at  so  carl}'  a  period  subjected  to  Hellenic  intiuences. 

The  tombs  of  Chiusi  which  are  kept  open  for  the  visitor's 
inspection  are  not,  as  at  Tarquinii,  on  one  side  of  the  city,  but 
lie  all  around  it,  sometimes  several  miles  apart ;  and  as  they  are 
not  all  to  be  reached  in  a  carriage,  and  as  the  countr}'^  tracks  are 
not  easily  travelled  on  foot  after  wet  weather,  it  would  be  well, 
especially  for  ladies,  to  procure  beasts  in  the  town.  These  are 
not  always  to  be  had ;  and  as  a  substitute  I  would  recommend  an 
ox-cart,  which  mode  of  conve3'ance,  though  primitive  and  homely, 
is  preferable,  after  heavy  rains,  to  the  saddle,  as  regards  comfort, 
cleanliness,  and  security.  The  keys  of  the  tombs  are  kept  by  a 
■cnstode  appointed  by  the  municipalit}^,  who  must  be  dispatched 
expressly  from  Chiusi,  to  meet  the  visitor  at  the  several  tombs. 

The  most  accessible  of  these  painted  sepulchres  is  the 

TOMBA   DEL    COLLE    CaSUCCINI, 

which  lies  "a  short  mile"  to  the  south-east  of  Chiusi.  It  is 
hollowed  in  the  side  of  a  hill,  and  is  entered  b}'  a  level  passage 
cut  in  the  slope.  At  Chiusi,  indeed,  almost  all  the  tombs  now 
open  are  entered  in  this  manner,  instead  of  b}''  a  descending 
flight  of  steps,  as  at  Corneto,  Vulci,  and  Cervetri. 

The  marvels  of  this  tomb  meet  you  on  its  threshold.  The 
entrance  is  closed  with  foldhig- doors,  each  flap  being  a  single 
slab  of  travertine.  You  are  startled  at  this  unusual  sort  of  door 
— still  more,  when  j'ou  hear,  what  your  eyes  confirm,  that  these 
ponderous  slabs  are  the  original  doors  of  the  tomb,  still  working 
on  their  hinges  as  when  they  were  first  raised,  some  twenty  and 
odd  centuries  since.  Hinges,  strictly  speaking,  there  are  none; 
for  the  doors  have  one  side  lengthened  into  a  pivot  above  and 
below,  which  pivots  work  in  sockets  made  in  the  stone  lintel  and 
threshold ;  just  as  in  the  early  gateways  of  Etruscan  cities,^  and 
as  doors  were  hung  in  the  middle  ages — those  of  the  Alhambra 
for  instance.  There  can  be  no  doubt  of  the  antiquity  of  tliese 
doors  ;  it  is  manifest  in  their  very  arrangement ;  for  the  lintel  is 
^  huge  mass  of  rock  buried  beneath  a  weight  of  superincumbent 
earth ;  and  must  have  been  laid  after  the  slabs  were  in  their 
places ;  and  it  is  obvious  that  none  but  those  who  committed 

'   i't  siqyra,  p.  145. 
VOL.    II.  T 


CHIUSI.— The  Cemetery. 


[chap,  liv, 


llieir  treasures  to  this  sepulchre,  wouhl  liave  taken  so  much 
Libour  to  preserve  them."  This  was  not  a  common  mode  of 
fh>sing  the  tomb,  which  was  generally  clone  with  one  or  more 
slabs  of  rock,  often  fitted  to  the  doorway,  and  sometimes  adorned 
with  reliefs,  as  in  the  Grotta  delle  Inscrizioni  at  Tarquinii. 


DOOR    OF    TUE    TOilCA    DKL    COLLE    CASUCCINI,    CHIUSI. 


Just  outside  the  door  a  small  chamber  opens  on  either  hand,, 
probably  for  the  freedmen  or  slaves  of  the  family.  The  tomb 
itself  has  three  chambers,  two  only  decorated  with  paintings,  the 
third  unfinished.  The  first  is  the  largest,^  and  has  a  doorway  in 
the  centre  of  two  of  its  walls,  opening  into  the  other  chambers ; 
but  on  the  third  wall  is  a  false  door  recessed  and  painted  to 
correspond,  as  in  the  tomb  of  Tarquinii  just  mentioned.  All  the 
doors,  true  or  false,  narrow  upwards,  and  have  the  usual  Etruscan 


'  This  ancient  doorway  is  sliown  in  the 
al)Ove  woodcut.  The  door  is  4  ft.  4  in. 
hi;,'h,  and  cacli  leaf  or  flaj)  is  ahout  18 
inches  wide,  and  nearly  5  thick.  Tlie  deptli 
of  the  arcliitrave  is  16  inches.  The  iron 
handles  are  a  modern  addition. 


•^  Tlie  dimensions  of  this  chamber  an- 
about  14  feet  by  10  ;  the  height  to  the 
cornice  is  6  ft.  8  in.,  and  about  7  ft.  6  in. 
to  the  central  beam,  which  runs  trans- 
versely.    The  tomb  faces  the  south. 


CHAP.  Liv.]  ANCIENT    DOOR— CIIAEIOT-EACES.  323 

mouldings  iiiarked  in  colour.  The  ceilings  are  not  carved  into 
rafters  as  usual  on  other  sites,  but  coffered  in  concentric  squares 
and  oblongs  recessed,  as  in  the  Grotta  Cardinale  at  Tarquinii, 
and  painted  black  and  red. 

The  paintings  do  not  stand  out  forcibl}',  though  on  a  white 
ground.'^  Beyond  this,  the  walls  have  undergone  no  other  pre- 
paration than  smoothing.  The  rock  is  a  sort  of  sandstone,  which 
will  not  take  a  very  fine  surAice,  and  therefore  hardly  allows  of  a 
high  finish  or  of  much  force  of  colour. 

The  figures  are  in  a  band  about  twenty-two  inches  deeii,  which 
surrounds  the  chamber  as  a  frieze.  They  are  twent3^-six  in 
number,  and  are  divided  into  two  subjects,  banquets  and  games, 
both  having  a  funereal  reference.  On  the  portion  of  the  frieze 
lacing  you  as  you  enter,  are  the  palajstric  games.  To  the  right 
of  the  central  door  is  a  race  of  three  higce.  The  charioteers  are 
dressed  in  white  skull-caps  and  tunics,  and  the  reins  as  usual  are 
passed  round  their  bodies.  The  horses  are  of  meagre  forms,  and 
each  pair  is  black  and  red,  and  red  and  black,  alternatelv,  the 
red  horses  having  black  hoofs  and  blue  tails ;  the  black  have  blue 
hoofs.  By  the  side  of  each  chariot  is  a  tree,  or  what  in  the  con- 
ventional system  of  the  Etruscans  was  intended  to  represent  such, 
though  to  our  eyes  it  is  more  like  a  tall  bullrush,  or  a  paddle 
stuck  into  the  ground,  the  stick  being  painted  red,  and  the  blade 
bright  blue.  Such  trees  may  be  intended  for  C3'presses,  either 
introduced  as  sej)ulchral  emblems — cuprcssi  funehres,  or  more 
probably  to  mark  the  goal  in  the  circus — metas  imitaia  cupressusj' 
The  action  of  both  men  and  horses  is  natural  and  easy ;  the 
latter  especially,  though  with  native  peculiarities,  have  more 
spirit  and  freedom  than  any  of  those  in  the  painted  tombs  of 
Tarqumii.°  The  foremost  chariot  in  this  race  is  represented 
passing  the  goal,  in  the  woodcut  at  the  head  of  this  chapter.  A 
dog,  spotted  black  and  white,  is  chained  to  a  \)cg  beneath  the 
central  hitja. 

To  the  left  of  the  central  door,  are  represented  the  games  on 
foot.  First  is  a  pair  of  wrestlers,  or  it  may  be  tumblers,  for  one 
is  inverted,  witli  his  heels  in  the  air  and  his  body  resting  on  the 
shouldi'i's   of  the   other,   who   is  kneeling   on  one  knee.^     They 

■*  This    cliamber   is    peculiar   in    being  *  Tlie  wliole  race-scene  is  very  like  one 

wliitoiied.     In  most  of  the  tombs  of  Chiusi,  on  a  relief  in  tlic  Musco   Casiicciui  ;  but 

the  colours  are   laid  on   no  other  ground  the   latter  is  more  stiff  and  archaic,  and 

than  the  natural  ruck,  which  is  of  a  ycl-  the  cliariots  are  tri'ja  instead  of  bija. 

lowish  grey  line.  ^  For  illustrations  of  Etruscan  tumblers 

'  Ovi.I.  Met.  X.  lOO'.     riin.  XVI.  60.  see  Micali,  Ital.  av.  Horn.  tav.  LVI. 

Y  2 


324 


CHIUSI.— The  Cemetery. 


[chap.  liv. 


strongly  resemble  certain  figures  in  the  painted  tombs  of  Egyjit. 
A  pcedotrihcs  in  blue  iJalUnm,  i\\\([  holding  a  wand,  stands  by  to 
direct  the  sport.  Next,  a  naked  man,  whose  attitude  ma}-  remind 
you  of  the  celebrated  dancing  Faun  at  Naples,  is  boxing  with  an 
imaginary  opponent,^  to  the  sound  of  the  double-pipes  played  b}' 
a  boy  behind  him.  A  woman  follows,  dancing  to  the  same  music, 
and  to  the  castanets  which  she  rattles  herself.  Her  flesh  is  of  the 
same  red  hue  as  that  of  the  men  around  her.  She  is  draped  with 
red  bodice,  yellow  transparent  gown,  and  a  white  cJthunys  or  scarf 
on  her  shoulders,  and  wears  red  sandals;  and  in  attitude  as  well  as 
costume  is  very  like  the  daucing-gii'ls  in  the  tombs  of  Tarquinii.^ 
She  is  followed  by  another  suhido ;  and  then  by  a  naked  youth, 
with  crested  Greek  helmet,  round  shield,  and  wavy  spear,  leaping 
from  the  earth  as  if  practising  an  armed  dance,  such  as  the 
ancients  were  accustomed  to  perform.^  The  last  figure  is  a  naked 
man,  exercising  himself  with  haltcrcs,  or,  in  plain  EngUsh,  using 
the  dumb-bells,  which,  with  the  ancients,  served  the  same  purpose 
as  with  us.~ 


^  Tliis  figure  seems  at  first  to  be  beating 
notting  but  the  air  with  his  hands,  and 
time  with  his  feet  ;  but  that  he  is  a  pugilLst 
is  rendered  evident  by  a  precisely  similar 
figure  in  the  Deposito  de'  Dei,  who  has  an 
opponent.  He  has  no  cestus,  though  one 
fist  is  closed.     JIus.  Chins,  tav.  182. 

9  See  Vol.  I.  pp.  301,  319,  320. 

*  This  figure  has  been  taken  for  that  of 
a  woman,  on  account  of  the  flesh  being  of  a 
rather  paler  hue  than  that  of  the  athletes 
around  it.  Ann.  last.  1S51,  p.  259.  But 
the  colour  corresponds  exactly  with  that  of 
the  young  male  figures  in  the  same  tomb  ; 
the  figure  is  moreover  decidedly  manly  in 
form  ;  and  there  is  no  instance  known  of  a 
naked  female  taking  part  in  the  funeral 
games  represented  on  Etruscan  monuments  ; 
especially  at  the  comparatively  late  period 
to  which  the  paintings  in  this  tomb  must 
be  referred,  although  on  Greek  vases 
women  arc  sometimes  represented  per- 
forming the  Pyrrhic  dance,  naked,  as  ex- 
emplified by  Dorca  and  Selenice  on  a  hydria 
in  the  Etruscan  Museum  at  Florence,  see 
p.  82  of  this  volume.  But  as  Athenseus 
(XIV.  23,  29)  informs  us  that  the  Pyrrhic 
dance  was  performed  by  armed  boys,  and 
that  at  Sparta,  where  alone  in  his  day,  the 
dance  was  kejit  iip,  all  boys  above  five 
years  old  were  taught  to  dance  it,  as  it  was 
practised   in  preparation  for  war,  we  are 


authorised  to  believe  that  when  women 
were  represented  as  performers  it  must 
have  been  in  burlesque.  The  probability 
then  is  that  the  pyrrJi  icJdstes  depicted  in 
this  tomb  was  intended  for  a  male. 

That  the  Etruscans  had  armed  dances  is 
proved,  not  only  by  their  jjaiuted  tombs, 
but  by  other  monuments,  e.^.  a  silver  gilt 
vessel  in  very  archaic  style  found  at  Chiusi. 
Dempster,  I.  tab.  78  ;  Inghir.  Mon.  Etrus. 
III.  tav.  19.  Miiller  (Etrusk.  IV.  1,  7)  is 
of  opinion  that  the  Etruscan  histrioncs, 
who  formed  an  essential  part  of  the 
pageantrj'  of  the  curcus,  danced  armed, 
because  they  are  compai-ed  by  Valerius 
Maximus  (II.  4,  3)  to  the  Curetes.  And 
the  armed  dances  of  the  Salii  in  honour  of 
liars,  which  according  to  one  tradition 
(Serv.  ad  ^n.  VIII.  2S5)  were  of  Veientine 
institution,  iliiller  would  refer  to  an  Etrus- 
can origin.  Tlie  figure,  however,  in  tliis 
painted  tomb  can  have  no  relation  to  the 
Salii,  who,  as  described  by  Plutarch  (Xuma), 
danced  in  purple  rol)es,  with  brass  belts, 
helmets,  swords,  and  brass  bucklers  of  a 
peculiar  form,  which  are  represented  on  a 
singular  Etruscan  gem  in  the  Uffizj  Museum 
at  Florence,  where  the  Salii  are  carrying 
ancUia  in  procession.      I't  supra,  p.  SO. 

-  Mart.  VII.  67,  0  — 

gravesque  draucis 
Ilalteras  facili  rotat  lacerto — 


CHAP.  Liv.]  FUNERAL    GAMES    AND    BANQUET. 


32,5 


Half  of  the  frieze  in  tliis  cliiimbcr  being  devoted  to  games,  the 
other  half  is  pictured  with  the  banquet.  Here  are  five  couches, 
each  bearing  a  pair  of  figures,  all  males,  young  and  beardless, 
half-draped,  and  crowned  with  blue  chaplets.  The  absence  of 
the  fair  sex  shows  this  to  be  a  sijnqws'uoi),  or  drinking-bout. 
The  gestures  of  the  revellers,  animated  and  varied,  betray  the 
exhilarating  influence  of  the  rosy  god.  One  holds  a  chaplet, 
another  a  flower,  a  third  a  branch,  apparently  of  m3'rtle,  and 
several  have  p((tcr(e,  which  the  slaves  are  hastening  to  replenish. 
The  whole  goes  forv.-ard  to  the  music  of  the  double-pipes.  Each 
youth  lies  under  a  separate  coverlet,  and  the  colours  of  the  cloths 
are  contrasted  with  each  other,  and  with  their  own  borders. 
The  couches  themselves  are  draped  with  white,  spotted  with 
black  crosses.  Beneath  each  is  the  usual  hjipopixUnm,  or  foot- 
stool, here  resting  on  lions'  paws.  At  one  end  of  the  scene 
stands  a  tripod  with  a  large  triple  Iches,  or  basin,  of  red  earth, 
either  a  wine-cooler,  or  containing  the  beverage,  mixed  to  the 
palates  of  the  revellers ;  •'  and  a  naked  slave  is  busied  at  it,  re- 
plenishing wine-jugs.  A  second  figure,  who,  with  arm  uplifted, 
is  giving  the  slave  directions — "  Deprome,  o  Thaliarche, 
meriim  diotd.'" — is  evidently  the  butler;  and  the  i^a^t'ra 
suspended  on  the  wall  marks  this  corner  as  his  pantry. 
Should  curiosity  be  excited  as  to  the  costume  of  butlers 
in  Italy  some  two  or  three-and-twenty  centuries  since, 
I  must  reply  that  this  Etruscan  worthy  is  "in  leathers," 
as  the  Spaniards  say,  though  not  in  buft",  chamois,  or 
cordovan. 

One  of  the  slaves  in  this  scene  holds  a  cullender, 
with  a  handle  bent  into  a  hook,  for  the  purpose  of  sus- 
pension on  the  rim  of  the  wine-vessel.  This  is  the 
ethmos,  hylister,  or  colum,  for  straining  the  wine  into 
the  cup,  and  was  general!}'  of  bronze.  The  simpulum,  or  ladle, 
nearly  resembled  it  in  form,  the  bowl  being  at  right  angles  with 


Slill'ULUJI. 


cf.  XIY.  49 ;  Juv.  Sat.  YI.  421  ;  Seneca, 
Epist.  XV.  4;  LYI.  ;  Pollux,  X.  c.  17. 
Seucca  says  they  wei'e  of  lead.  They  are 
here  painted  hlue,  prohalily  to  represent 
that  metal.  Those  represented  in  this 
toiub  are  nearly  of  the  form  now  in  use, 
hut  on  the  jiainted  vases,  as  on  some  in  the 
British  Museum,  they  are  rei)resented  flat, 
of  an  oval  form,  with  a  hole  for  tlie  inser- 
tion of  the  fingers  (Bull.  Inst.  1S3G,  p.  -19), 
as  they  are  described  hy  Pausanias  (V.  26,  3) 


who  says   they  are  grasped  in   the  same 
manner  as  a  shield. 

"*  This  basin  seems  to  answer  the  purpose 
of  the  krater,  or  ordinary  mixing-bowl.  A 
similar  tripod  with  basins  is  shown  on  a 
bas-relief  from  Chiusi,  representing  the 
funeral  feast  and  dances,  in  verj-  archaic 
style  (Micali,  Mon.  Ined.  p.  140,  tav.  23)  ; 
and  also  on  a  siugidar  sarcophagus  dis- 
covered at  Perugia.  Jton.  Ined.  Inst.  IV. 
tav.  32. 


326  CHIUSI.— The  Cemetery.  [chap.  liv. 

the  handles,  as  shoAvn  in  the  annexed  woodcut.  Suoli  slnqyitla, 
of  bronze,  are  occasionally  found  in  Etruscan  tombs.  The 
handle  often  terminates  in  a  swan's  head  and  neck. 

The  inner  chamber  is  of  smaller  dimensions,  with  a  bench  of 
rock  on  two  sides.  It  has  also  a  frieze  of  figures,  here  only  four- 
teen inches  high — a  chorus  of  youths,  fourteen  in  all ;  one  with  a 
patera,  another  with  a  chajdet,  a  third  has  the  double-pipes,  and 
a  fourth  a  lyre,  by  which  to  regulate  the  dance.  All  are  naked, 
with  the  exception  of  a  light  cldanujs  on  tlieir  shoulders,  or  round 
the  waist."* 

The  natm-al  interpretation  of  these  scenes  is  that  they  rej^re- 
sent  the  funeral  rites  of  the  Etruscans.  Though  some  antiquaries 
have  attached  a  symbolical  meaning  to  them,  I  see  no  reason 
why  they  should  not  represent  the  feasting,  music,  dances,  and 
palsestric  games,  actuall}'  held  in  honour  of  the  dead.'  It  is 
possible  that  they  may  be  at  once  descriptive  and  symbolical. 
This  is  a  point  on  which  every  one  is  at  liberty  to  hold  his  own 
ojiinion. 

The  figures  in  these  paintings  are  generally  outlined  with 
black  or  red.  The  colours  are  hardh'  so  well  preserved  as  in 
those  of  Tarquinii ;  the  blues  and  whites  are  the  most  vivid. 
Yet  all  have  been  seriousl}'  injured.     Let  the  visitor  have  a  care 


*  This  c7(Za?H.»/.?  may  be  introduced  merely  sensual  jjleasures,  because  the  ancients  had 
for  the  sake  of  the  colour  ;  as  it  varies —  no  other  way  of  rejiresenting  the  delights 
red,  black,  blue,  and  white,  in  succession.  of  Elysium.  In  truth,  some  of  them  con- 
For  variety's  sake  also,  these  figures  are  sidered  that  the  highest  rewards  the  gods 
made  to  alternate  ■with  trees,  all  painted  could  bestow  on  the  virtuous  in  another 
black,  both  stems  and  foliage,  and  not  life  was  an  eternity  of  intoxication, 
paddle-shaped,  like  those  in  the  outer  Musaeus,  ap.  Plat.  Repub.  II.  p.  363,  ed. 
chambei",  but  branching  out  with  more  Steph.  Inghirarui  thinks  such  an  inter- 
nature  and  freedom  than  usual  in  Etruscan  pretation  the  more  approi^riate  to  the 
tombs.  Some  of  these  figures  are  painted  scenes  in  this  tomb,  because  the  usual 
red,  others  are  merely  sketched  on  the  tables  for  food  being  wanting,  the  figures 
wall,  with  black  or  red  outlines — carbone  are  drinking,  not  eating  ;  and  souls  in  bliss 
aut  nibricd  jticti.  All  have  been  carelessly  would  be  served  with  nectar  alone.  Ann. 
scratched  in  before  being  coloured;  and  Inst.  1835,  p.  22.  But  this  difference 
the  artist  has  not  alwaj's  adhered  to  his  merely  indicates  a  drinking-bout  instead  of 
outline,  which  in  some  cases  has  evidently  aregularmeal— as^nyjOAv'oM,  not  a  dcipnon. 
been  retouched.  In  eitlier  case  it  may  be  a  funeral  feast,  in 

'  I  may  add   to  what  has  been  stated  its  late,  rather  than  early  stage.     In  the 

elsewhere   (Vol.    I.    pp.   323,    374),    that  trees  of   the   dancing-scene  in   the  inner 

Inghirami    regards   such    scenes  as    "an  chamber,  he  sees  the  "fortunata  nemora," 

apotheosis  of  virtuous  souls" — i.  e.,  tliat  and   the    "  luci    opaci "    of    the    Elysian 

the  figures  in  these  scenes  do  not  represent  regions   (Virg.    iEn.   VI.    639,   673),   and 

the  survivors,  thus  expressing  their  son-ow  further  quotes  Virgil  (3Ln.    VI.    647)   to 

for  the  dead,  but  symbolise  the  souls  of  the  jjrove  the  orthodoxy   of  the  lyre  in  thi» 

departed,    depicted   in   the   enjojTnent   of  scene. 


CHAP.  LIT.]     PECULIARITIES  OF  THESE  PAINTINGS. 


327 


as  he  moves  through  tliese  tombs.  The  metlimn,  whatever  it 
was,  with  Avhich  the  colours  were  hiicl  on,  having  perished  after 
so  many  ages,  they  now  remain  in  mere  powder  on  the  walls,  and 
may  be  efiaced  by  a  touch  of  the  finger,  or  by  the  sweep  of  a 
garment. 

Tliese  paintings  have  no  chiaroscuro,  no  perspective,  no  fore- 
shortening ;  the  faces  are  always  in  profile ;  the  figures  some- 
times unnaturally  elongated ;  the  limbs  clums\' ;  the  attitudes  in 
some  cases  rigid ;  the  draper^'  arranged  in  stifi',  regular  folds — 
all  features  of  archaic  character.  Yet  the  eyes  are  in  profile,  the 
sexes  are  not  distinguished  by  their  colour,  and  there  are  more 
ease  and  power  than  are  usuulh'  found  in  connection  with  such 
signs  of  antiquit3\  They  evidentl}^  show  the  influence  of  Greek 
art,  and  are  of  later  date  than  any  of  the  other  tomb-paintings  of 
Chiusi,  yet  can  hardly  belojig  to  the  period  of  lloman  domina- 
tion, still  less  can  the}'  be  referred,  as  Inghu-ami  opines,  to  the 
decadence  of  art.*" 

This  tomb  was  discovered  in  May  1833,  b}-  accident,  while 
making  "  bonifications  "  to  the  soil.  It  had  been  rifled  in  past 
jiges,  for  nothing  but  fragments  of  pottery  and  m-ns  was  found 
witlim  it.'' 


^  Ann.  Inst.  1835,  p.  20.  Dr.  Brunn 
(Ann.  Inst.  1866,  p.  428)  designates  the 
general  character  of  the  paintings  in  this 
tomb  as  "the  decadence  of  archaicism." 
While  admitting  the  simplicity  of  the 
design,  he  pronounces  it  to  be  wanting  in 
accuracy,  precision,  and  energy,  and  re- 
marks that  the  severity,  which  characterises 
all  archaic  art,  is  here  entirely  lost,  with- 
'Hit  being  i-eplaced  by  the  more  elevated 
qualities  of  free  art ;  but  that  instead  of  it 
we  have  a  certain  softness,  which  in  the 
physiognomies  fluctuates  between  pure 
ideality  and  decided  realism.  Dr.  Helbig 
;'.lso  (Ann.  Inst.  1863,  p.  357)  points  out  a 
<;ertain  resemblance  among  the  heads,  as 
if  ideal  types  had  been  employed  in  the 
representation  of  figures  of  every  day 
life. 

'  Illustrations  of  the  scenes  in  this  tomb 
jvre  given  in  the  Museo  Chiusino,  tav.  181- 
185.  For  further  notices  see  Ann.  Inst. 
1835,  pp.  19  et  seq. — Inghirami ;  Ann. 
1851,  pp.  255-267.— Brunn;  Mon.  Inst. 
V,  tav,  32-34  ;  Micali,  Jlon.  Ined.  tav. 
i8. 

A    painted   tomb,   very   like   that  just 


described,  was  opened  as  long  since  as 
1734,  in  a  hill  near  Poggio  Montolli,  about 
a  mile  from  Chiusi.  It  has  been  long 
reclosed,  but  a  record  of  it  is  preserved  by 
Gori  (Mus.  Etrus.  III.  pp.  84-7.  cl.  II. 
tav.  6),  who  shows  us  a  pair  of  wrestlers 
in  the  .same  singular  iDositions— a  pair  of 
l)ugilists,  with  an  oil-pot  on  a  column  hard 
by — the  agonothete  with  his  rod,  and  with 
a  tutidus,  or  high-peaked  cap— a  suhnJo 
with  double-pipes — a  bearded  dwarf — a 
cliarioteer  in  his  hl<ja,  followed  by  a  man 
with  a  palm-branch  in  token  of  victory — 
a  recumbent  figure  with  a.  patera,  to  indicate 
the  banquet,  though  Gori  takes  it  for  the 
soul  of  the  deceased — and  two  men,  with 
rods  and  something  t^^-isted  round  them, 
which  seems  to  be  a  serpent,  as  in  the 
Grotta  delle  Bighe  of  Coraeto  ;  but  Gori 
takes  these  figures  to  be  centurions  with 
their  vites.  Other  figiu-es  of  huntsmen, 
dogs,  and  wild  beasts,  all  prostrate  in  the 
EQidst  of  a  wood,  together  with  two  other 
chariots,  were  seen  in  this  tomb  when  first 
opened,  but  they  soon  faded  from  its 
walls. 


328  cm  U  SI.— The  CEiEEXERY.  [chap,  liv, 

Deposito  de'  Dei. 

On  the  opposite  site  of  Chiusi,  and  about  three  miles  from  the 
tomb  just  described,  was  another  with  paintings  so  strikingly 
similar,  that  on  entering  you  were  read}'  to  abuse  yoiu'  guide  for 
leading  you  back  to  what  you  had  ah-eady  seen.  The  resem- 
blance was  not  only  in  subject,  mode  of  treatment,  and  style  of 
art,  but  individual  figures  were  almost  identical,  affording  con- 
vincing proof  that  this  tomb  and  the  Tomba  del  Colle  Casuceini 
were  decorated  b}'  the  same  hand.  Even  in  the  plan,  number, 
and  arrangements  of  the  chambers,  these  sepulchres  exactly 
corresponded.  Unfortunate^  the  Deposito  de'  Dei  had  suffered 
so  much  injury;  the  surface  of  the  wall  had  flaked  off  to  such  an 
extent,  that  it  was  considered  useless  to  contiime  to  keep  it 
imder  lock  and  key,  and  it  was  accordingl}^  closed  a  few  yeai's 
since,  and  the  urns  it  contained  were  transferred  to  the  Museo 
Civico  of  Chiusi.  A  description  of  this  tomb,  as  it  was,  is  given 
in  the  Appendix  to  this  Chapter,  Note  I. 

Deposito  delle  Moxache. 

Not  far  from  the  sepulchre  de'  Dei,  and  about  a  mile  and  a 
half  from  Chiusi,  to  the  north-west,  in  a  hollow,  called  Val 
d'Acqua,  was  the  "  Tomb  of  the  Nuns,"  so  called,  not  from 
containing  the  ashes  of  ancient  religious  virgins — Etruscaii 
civilisation,  so  far  as  we  can  leam,  never  having  encom'aged 
voluntar}'  celibacy  in  either  sex — but  from  being  in  the  grounds 
of  the  nunneiy  of  Santo  Stefano.  It  was  a  vaulted  chamber  of 
small  size,  rudely  hollowed  in  the  rock,  and  unpainted ;  pos- 
sessing no  interest  beyond  the  preservation  of  its  monuments, 
just  as  the}'  were  discovered — two  sarcophagi,  for  unbui'nt  bodies, 
and  a  number  of  cineraiy  m'ns,  of  alabaster  and  travertme ;  but 
these  have  all  either  been  sold,  or  transferred  to  the  Etruscan 
Museum  at  Florence,  and  the  tomb  is  now  reclosed. 

These  sepulchral  monuments  proved,  by  the  epitaphs  they 
bore,  that  this  sei)ulchi'e  belonged  to  the  family  of  "  Umrana.'' 
This  is  an  interesting  fact,  for  in  this  word  we  recognise  the 
name  of  Umbria  ;  and  it  is  confirmatoiy  of  the  historical  record 
of  the  earl}'  relations  between  that  country  and  this  city  of 
Clusium.^ 

This  tomb  was  discovered  in  1826,  by  some  da bToyant  -peasant, 

*  The  last  syllaLle  of  Umrana  is  but  the  Vipina.  From  the  known  relation  between 
tisaal  augmentative,  as  from  Titi  is  formed  Camars  or  Chisium,  and  the  Camertes  of 
Titine,  from  Pumiju,  Pumpuni,  from  Vipi,       Umbria  {ut  supra,  p.  292),  we  might  expect 


CHAP.  Liv.]     OTHER  PAINTED  TOMBS,  NOW  EECLOSED.  329 

it  is  said,  dreaming  that  he  had  found  a  sepulchre  on  this  spot.  But 
the  fact  loses  much  of  the  marvellous  when  it  is  recollected  that 
the  discovery  of  tonihs  around  Chiusi  is  of  ever3--day  occurrence  ; 
the  neighhourhood  being  so  full  of  them,  that  on  any  spot  a  man 
might  select,  he  would  prohably  meet  with  traces  of  ancient 
sepulture.  But  such  is  "the  stuff  that  dreams  are  made  of"  in 
Italy,  where  the  lower  orders  place  implicit  faith  in  them,  and 
consult  soothsayers  and  somnipatent  hooks  for  the  interpretation 
thereof.  In  lottery  matters,  dreams  are  the  Italian's  oracles. 
Before  purchasing  a  ticket  he  tries  to  dream  of  "huoiil  )iumeri;''' 
or  if  no  numbers  enter  into  his  visions,  the  circumstances  of  the 
dream  determine  its  character,  and  the  phantasmagoria  of  his 
somnolent  hours  are  translated  into  numerals. 


In  18GG  a  tomb  was  opened  at  the  Colle,  near  the  Tenuta 
Casuccini,  which  had  figures  painted  on  its  walls.  It  was  a 
single  chamber  of  small  size,  closed,  instead  of  a  door,  with  three 
large  tiles,  two  of  which  bore  Etruscan  inscriptions.  On  each 
side- wall  of  the  tomb  was  painted  in  black,  whether  merely  in 
outline  it  does  not  appear  from  the  description  we  have  of  them, 
a  figiu'e,  on  one  side  a  man,  on  the  opposite,  a  woman,  holding  a 
bowl,  from  which  she  seemed  to  be  pouring  a  libation.  Near  her 
was  drawn  a  bird,  apparently  a  crow.  The  male  figure  stood  in 
the  midst  of  an  Etruscan  inscription  of  four  lines — the  epitaph, 
it  appeared,  of  the  man  depicted  on  the  wall,  wdiich  corresponded 
with  the  inscription  on  one  of  the  tiles,  and  also  with  that  on  a 
cinerary  urn  in  the  tomb,  which  probabl}'  contained  the  ashes  of 
this  gentleman.  A  similar  agreement  existed  between  the  inscrip- 
tion attached  to  the  female  figure  on  the  Avail,  that  on  the  other 
tile  with  which  the  entrance  was  closed,  and  one  on  a  second 
cinerary  urn.  The  inscriptions  seemed  to  mark  the  figures  as 
man  and  wife,  he  being  of  the  famil}"  of  "  Tiuza,"  she  of  that  of 
"Hermne"  (Herminius).     The  tomb  is  now  closed.^ 

to  fiud  traces  of  that  connection   in   tlie  epitaphs  the  names  are  coupled  together — 

names  of  families,  which,  among  the  Etrus-  "Phastia  Umranei  Cumernnasa" — which, 

cans,   as  among  other  nations,   were  often  divested  of  the  adventitious  terminations, 

derived  from  regions,   cities,   rivers,   &c.  ;  wouM  be — Umra  Cumere.     On  an  urn  in: 

and  the  discovery  of  a  family-name  of  this  the  lluseo  Casuccini  the  very  word  Umbria, 

character  at  Chiusi  is  corroborative  of  tho  expressed  as  well  as  it  can  be  in  the  Etrus- 

historical  record.     It  may  be  further  ob-  can,  which   has  no  B,  occurs  as  a  family 

served  that  the  appellation  Livy  (IX.    36)  na7ne — "Larthia  Uniria  Puia." 
attaches   to   the   foreign    kindred    of  the  ^  Conestabile,    Bull.     Inst.    1S66,    pp. 

Clusians, —  "  Camertes   Umbri,"   has    its  I93~9. 
equivalent  in  this  tomb,  for  in  one  of  the 


330  CHIUSI.— The  Cemeteky.  [chap.  lit. 

Not  far  from  the  Tomba  del  CoUe  Casuccini,  and  to  the  east  of 
Chiusi,  "was  a  sepulchre  called  Tomha  del  Postino,  from  its  pro- 
l-)rietor,  the  postmaster  of  the  town,  but  it  is  now  reclosed.  It 
coutamed  seven  chambers,  full  of  urns,  the  fruit  of  excavations 
made  in  the  neighbourhood,  which  have  now  been  transferred  to 
the  INIuseo  Civico.  In  the  cUff  hard  b}'  have  been  discovered 
many  urns  in  niches,  covered  witli  tiles. 

Near  this,  a  tomb  was  discovered  in  1837,  having  two  figures 
of  the  Etruscan  Charun,  as  large  as  life,  sculptured  in  higli  relief 
in  the  doorway,  and  armed  with  hammers  as  if  to  guard  the  se- 
pulchre against  ^^olatiou.  Unfortunateh'  this  tomb  has  been 
reclosed.^ 

Tomba  della  Scimia. 

In  the  Poggio  Ilcnzo,  or  La  PellegTina,  an  oak-covered  hill, 
about  a  mile  from  Chiusi  to  the  north-east,  a  tomb  was  discovered 
in  March,  1846,  by  Signor  Francois,  which  was  decorated  vriili 
jmintmgs  of  verv  early  date,  and  singular  interest.  It  is  generally' 
designated  the  "  Monkey-Tomb." 

This  sepulchre  since  its  discover}-  has  been  reopened  and  re- 
tdosed  twice,  but  in  1876,  I  found  it  still  preserved  under  lock 
and  key.  In  form  and  arrangement  it  bears  a  resemblance  to 
the  other  painted  tombs,  but  has  four  chambers,  all  surrounded 
by  rock-hewn  benches,  carved  to  resemble  banquetmg-couches. 
The  central  chamber  is  surrounded  by  a  band  of  figures,  thirty 
mches  high,  representing  paljestric  games.  The  only  spectator 
is  a  lady,  with  a  red  mantle  on  her  head,  sitting  beneath  the 
shade  of  an  umbrella,  just  like  those  of  modern  times,  and  indica- 
tive, it  is  probable,  of  her  rank  and  dignit3\~     Her  foot-stool  is 

'  Ann.  Inst.  1S37,  '2,  p.  258.  reliefs  from  the  ruins  of  Nineveh,  and  the 
-  Braun  takes  tliis  lady  to  represent  the  coast  of  Lycia,  now  in  the  British  Museum, 
Epectators  in  general.  Umbrellas  and  satisfactorily  attest.  So  also  Persian  kings 
pai-asols — sliadeui — be  it  remembered,  ai-e  are  represented  in  the  reliefs  of  Persepolis. 
as  old  as  the  sun  and  rain.  Though  of  The  proudest  trophy  of  the  Gallic  arms  in 
comparatively  modem  introduction  into  Africa  was  the  umbi-elhi  of  Abd-el-Kader, 
England,  they  were  well-known  in  the  till  he  himself  shared  its  fate  ;  tliough  he 
•olden  time.  In  the  East  the  umbrella  has  was  soon  avenged  by  his  victor  being  corn- 
been  used  from  time  immemorial,  though  jjclled  to  abandon  his  in  a  far  ignobler 
chiefly  by  the  gi'eat ;  and  pi-oud  is  the  manner.  Umbrellas  presened  the  com- 
•oriental  despot  who  can  style  himself,  plexion  of  "  the  fair-cheeked "  Helen,  and 
"Brother  of  the  Sun  and  Jloon,  and  Lord  sheltered  many  a  fair  one  of  Greece  and 
of  the  Umbrella."  AssjTian  monarchs  Rome  from  Phcebus'  gaze,  as  we  learn 
stood  beneath  its  shade  while  receiving  from  ancient  vases,  bas-reliefs,  and 
homage  from  their  vanquished  foes  ;  and  paintings.  An  umbrella  was  introduced 
Lj'cian  i^rinces  sat  under  sucli  shelter  while  into  the  only  Greek  painted  tomb,  of  which 
•directing  the  siege  of  a  hostile  city  ;  a-s  the  we  have  record,  at  Tritasa  in  Achaea,  for 


CHAP.  Liv.]  TAINTED    TOMB    BELLA    SCIMIA.  331 

marked  ■with  a  pair  of  e3'es,  like  so  many  of  the  ])aiiited  vases. 
In  front  of  her  is  a  decorated  inclosure,  prohabl}"  intended  to 
represent  the  orchestra,  Avitliin  which  stands  a  siihiilo  blowing  his 
pipes  for  her  amusement ;  and  outside  stands  a  woman,  in  j'ellow 
jacket  and  red  gown  and  with  a  string  of  large  brown  beads 
crossed  on  her  bosom,  as  the  she-demons  wear  their  bands,  who 
balances  a  lighted  candelabrum  on  her  head.  There  are  other 
musicians  also — a  minstrel  with  his  lyre,  and  a  trumpeter  with 
II  long  horn,  of  the  i)eculiar  Utuus-\ike  form,  which  was  an 
Ktruscan  invention.^ 

There  is  also  a  race  of  three  hi(jie,  so  often  represented  in 
these  painted  tombs  of  Chiusi,  and  the  hrabeutes  or  umpire 
stands  in  front  ready  to  bestow  a  palm-branch  on  the  victor. 
Under  the  horses'  feet  lie  bundles  in  net-work,  which  may  be 
intended  for  skins  of  oil,  the  usual  prizes  in  such  contests,  often 
introduced  into  representations  of  ancient  chariot-races  ;  though 
liere  the}' have  been  supposed  to  be  obstacles  of  some  sort,  thrown 
purposely  under  the  chariots  in  order  to  upset  them, — fair  pla}^  on 
the  turf  being  no  better  understood  in  those  early  daj-s  than  at 
jn-esent, — and  this  view  is  borne  out  by  the  figure  of  a  boy  behind 
tlie  horses  in  the  foremost  higa,  who  appears  to  be  setting  a  large 
<log  at  them  to  make  them  swerve  from  their  course.  In  other 
parts  of  the  chamber  are  two  other  pairs  of  horses — one  ridden 
by  a  groom,  the  other  by  a  man  with  a  javehn  and  by  a  boy  with 
n  bow — the  riders  in  both  instances  being  seated  sidewa3's,  as 
horsemen  are  often  represented  on  Etruscan  monuments.  See 
the  woodcut  at  p.  333.*^  The  steeds  are  black,  red,  or  white, 
and  although  not  of  j)erfect  forms,  are  not  deficient  in  spirit. 

Pausaiiias  (VII.  22,  6)  describes  a  beautiful  culcd  for  carrying  one  througli  the  streets, 
young  lady  sitting  on  an  ivory  throne,  as  ^  This    is  not   the   circular   trumpet   or 

<lcpicted   on    its   walls,    sheltered    by  an  cornu  represented   in  the  Tomba    (-folini, 

umbrella    held    by    a    maid-servant    over  at  Orvieto  {ut  supra,  p.  55),  and  on  the 

licr  head.     Umbrellas  were  borne  by  the  urns  of  Volterra  (p.  1S8),  but  it  is  curved 

men,  as  well  as  by  the  ]VIaids  of  Athens  in  ut  the  end  like  a.  pedum,  or  Utuus  ;  and  is 

the  days  of  Pericles  (Aristoph.  Equit.  1348  ;  of  that  desci-iption  designated  by  the  hitter 

Thesmopli.  823,  829  ;  Avcs,  1508,  1550)  ;  name.     See  Vol.  I.   p.   333.     The  curved 

and    Roman  gallants  were  wont  to  prove  jiart  is  supported  by  cross  bars,  and  at  the 

their  devotion  by  holding  them  over  their  extremity  is  a  ring  for  susiiension. 
mistresses.      Ovid.    Art.    Amat.    II,    209.  ■•  Braun  took  this  peculiar  position    in 

cf.    JIart.   XI.    ep.    73.     In  this  tomb  of  which  horsemen  are  depicted  in  Etruscan 

Chiusi  we  have  proof  that  they  were  used  tomb.s  to  indicate  their  great  agility  and  skill 

in  Etruria  also.     Yet  though  an  umbrella  in  horsemanship— that  like  the  Numidians 

often  shadowed  the  rich  check  of  Cleopatra,  in  battle,  or  the  dcsultorcs  of  the  Roman 

and  softened  the  glow  of  Asp;isia's  charms,  circus,  they  could  ride  a  pair  of  horses,  and 

in  London,  the  centre  of  modern  civilisation,  spring  from  one  to  the  other  at  jJeasure. 

■only  a  century  since,  Jonas  Ilanway  was  ridi-  Liv.  XXIII.  29;  cf.  Suet.  Ctes.  39. 


332 


CniUST.— The  Cemetery. 


[chap.  liv. 


On  one  of  the 
side  Avails  are  a 
pair  of  naked 
pugilists,  boxing 
with  the  ccstus, 
holding  one  hand 
open  for  defence, 
the  other  closed 
for  attack;  their 
robes  on  a  stool 
between  them. — 
A  P3'rrhic  dan- 
cer, in  yellow 
armour  —  helm, 
cuirass,  greaves, 
Argolic  shield, 
and  wavy  wand, 
with  which  he 
seems  to  be  strik- 
ing his  shield  ; 
his  helmet  has 
the  two  long 
cockades,  so  oft- 
en represented 
on  painted  vases. 
— A  naked  fi- 
gure, Avho  seems 
to  have  been 
hurling  a  long 
straight  lance, 
having  a  looped 
cord  attached  to 
it,  is  taking  a 
flask  of  oil  or 
wine  from  a  boy, 
who  also  carries 
a  bough.  A 
dwarf  with  a 
black  beard,  and 
wearing  a  tiitn- 
his  and  chaplet, 
is   teaching    the 


CHAP.   LIV.] 


TOMB    OP    THE    MONKEY. 


double-pii^es  to 
a  3'outhful  siihiilo 
of  fair  propor- 
tions, who  has 
the  capistruni 
bound  round  his 
cheeks.  See  the 
M'oodcut  on  p. 
332. 

On  the  oppo- 
site  wall    are    a 
pair  of  wrestlers, 
in  even  more  dif- 
ficult    attitudes 
than  in  the  other 
tombs — an    070- 
nothetcs,  in  blue 
"  high   -   lows," 
standing    by    to 
see  fair   play  — 
two       men      on 
horseback  appa- 
rently racing,  al- 
ready referred  to 
— another  black- 
bearded     dwarf, 
Avith    a    paddle- 
like leaf  on  his 
slioulder,  who  is 
being       dragged 
forward     by    an 
athlete,    bearing 
a    similar    leaf, 
apparently    with 
the   wish  to   in- 
struct    him     in 
gymnastics,      to 
which  the  little 
man       naturally 
shows  much  reluctance.^ 

*  These  two  figures  liave  leathern  pads  fa 
to  their  knees  and  ankles. 


334  CniUSI.— The  Cemetery.  [chap.  liv. 

Dwarfs  and  monkeys  are  associated  in  our  minds ;  and  so 
apparently  in  those  of  the  Etruscans.  Here,  amid  the  atJiletce^ 
sits  an  ape  chained  to  the  stump  of  a  tree,  from  which  new 
branches  are  sprouting.  He  has  no  apparent  relation  to  the 
scene,  and  it  may  he  that,  like  the  dwarfs,  he  is  introduced  to 
till  an  awkward  space  under  the  projecting  lintel  of  a  door.° 

All  the  figures  on  this  Avall  are  shown  in  the  woodcut  oii 
page  333. 

It  is  impossible  not  to  be  struck  Avith  the  medieval  character 
of  much  of  this  scene.  It  requires  no  great  exercise  of  the 
imagination  to  see  a  castle-yard  in  the  days  of  chivalry.  There 
is  the  warder  -with  his  horn,  the  minstrel  with  his  lyre,  the 
knight  in  armour,  the  nun  with  her  rosary,  the  dwarfs  and 
mouke}- — and  even  some  of  the  other  figures  would  not  be  out  of 
place.  Yet  the  style  of  art,  bearing  a  resemblance  to  that  of  the 
earhest  tombs  at  Corneto,  proves  this  to  have  been  one  of  the 
most  ancient  of  the  painted  tombs  of  Chiusi,  and  four  or  five 
centuries  before  the  Christian  era. 

Below  the  figures  is  a  band  of  the  meander  fret.  Above  them 
is  a  cornice  painted  with  the  egg  and  tongue  pattern,  and  on  it 
uo  each  wall  is  a  female  head  with  dishevelled  hair. 

The  inner  chamber  has  only  two  figures  painted  ;  a  boy  on 
each  side-wall, — one  holding  a  flask  of  wine  or  oil ;  the  other  a 
bill-hooked  lance.  Like  the  outer  chamber  this  has  a  sepulchral 
couch  hewn  from  the  rock  ;  but  in  one  corner  a  square  mass  is 
left,  which  would  hardly  be  intelligible,  were  not  the  arm  of  a 
chair  painted  on  the  wall  above  it,  indicating  its  analogy  to  the 
curule  chairs  in  the  tombs  of  Cervetri.'^  The  arm  in  this  case 
represents  a  spotted  snake. 

In  the  recessed  coffer  in  the  ceiling  were  painted  four  ivy 
leaves,  and  in  the  corners  as  many  Sirens,  each  with  long  dis- 
hevelled hair,  and  her  hands  to  her  bosom  as  if  beating  it  in 
grief,  and  Avitli  two  pairs  of  wings,  like  the  Cherubim  of  the  Jews. 

The  sexes  of  the  figures  in  this  tomb  are  as  usual  distin- 
guished by  their  colour;  the  males  being  a  strong  red,  the 
females  white.  Many  figures  were  first  scratched  in,  then  drawn 
with  strong  black  outlines,  and  filled  up  with  colour.  Some  of 
them  show  that  the  artist  made  several  attempts  before  he  could 
draw  the  form  to  his  satisfaction. 

*  Dr.  r.raun  (Ann.  Inst,.  18.50,  p.  256)       size,  to  mark  tlicm  as  of  secondary  iinport- 
tliiiiks  these  figures  were  not  intended  for       ancc,  and  mere  accessories  to  the  scene, 
dwarfs,  but  were  represented  of  diminutive  '  Vol.  I.  pp.  240,  256,  276. 


CHAP.  Liv.]     CHAEACTEEISTICS  OF  THESE  TAINTINGS.  335 

Dr.  Helbig  regards  this  as  the  earliest  of  the  painted  tombs  of 
Chiusi,  and  chisses  it,  in  point  of  antiquity,  as  little  sn])sequent 
to  the  Grotta  delle  Iscrizioni,  G.  del  Morto,  and  G.  del  Barone, 
at  Corneto,  and  asserts  that  while  those  sepulchres  display  very 
few  traces  of  the  Greek  st3de,  this  of  Chiusi  shows  none  what- 
ever. In  this  tomb,  he  sa^'s,  "we  find  true  Etruscan  portraits, 
and  distinguish  the  various  characters  of  the  individual  figures ; 
the  Indy  who  presides  at  the  games  being  represented  as  noble 
and  dignified  ;  the  men  on  horseback,  active  and  graceful ;  the 
jjyri'hicJiistes,  bold  and  proud  ;  the  j)ugilists,  coarse  and  almost 
bestial."^  Dr.  Brunn,  on  the  other  hand,  does  not  consider 
these  paintings  to  be  of  great  antiquit}',  or  even  to  belong  to  the 
period  of  advanced  archaicism.  They  have  a  certain  rudeness 
and  rusticit}',  which  is  not  so  much  a  sign  of  antiquity,  as  the 
mark  of  the  individual  artist  or  school,  and  must  not  be  con- 
founded with  the  true  characteristics  of  archaic  art,  which  are 
here  wanting.  He  admits,  however,  the  true  Etruscanism  of  the 
st3de,  so  entirely  opposed  to  the  principles  of  Greek  art,  and 
based  on  those  of  realism ;  for  the  artist  wc^dd  not  subject 
himself  to  the  laws  of  any  particular  style,  but  his  aim  was 
evidently  to  represent  people  as  they  ajipear  to  the  eye  in  the 
reality  of  common  life.  In  this  he  recognises  an  independent 
school  of  art,  which  may  lay  claim  to  be  called  national.^ 


Near  the  "Monkey-Tomb,"  another  was  opened  at  the  same 
time,  also  containing  three  chambers,  one  of  which  was  painted 
with  the  scene  of  a  hare-hunt,  a  rare  subject  in  Etruscan  tombs, 
though  the  Grotta  dei  Cacciatori  at  Corneto  has  a  scene  of 
somewhat  similar  character.^  The  art  in  this  tomb  was  very 
inferior,  and  its  walls  so  much  dilapidated,  that  it  was  not 
thought  worthy  of  being  kept  open  for  public  inspection,  and  was 
therefore  reclosed. 

Hard  by  these  tombs  a  remarkable  circular  well  or  shaft  ha3 
been  recently  discovered,  sunk  to  a  great  depth  in  the  hill,  and 
having  windows  at  intervals  opening  into  tombs,  of  which  there 
are  supposed  to  be  several  stories,  but  the  well  has  not  yet  been 
fully   excavated.     The  absence  of  niches  in  its  walls  seems   to 

"  Ann.  Inst.  1863,  pp.  342-4.  and    for   illustrations,    Jfon.    IncJ.    Inst. 

»  Ann.  Inst.  ISW,  pp.  429-431.     For  1850,  taw.  14-1(1. 

a    detailed    description    of   this  tomb  see  ^  See  Vol.  I.  p.  311. 
Ann.  Inst.  1850,  pp.  251-280.   E.  Brauu; 


336  CniUSI.— The  Cemetery.  [chap.  liv. 

mark  it  as  a  means  of  ventilation  rather  than  of  entrance  to  the 
tombs. 

Near  the  summit  of  Poggio  Eenzo,  and  not  far  from  the 
"  Monkej'-Tomb,"  was  opened,  in  1874,  a  sepulchre,  whose  walls 
were  painted  with  animals  in  the  most  archaic  style.  The  figures 
were  almost  as  Lirge  as  life,  and  rejiresented  lions,  panthers, 
bears,  griffons,  sphinxes,  all  winged,  and  depicted  in  threatening 
Attitudes,  or  devouring  their  prey,  and  among  them  a  goose,  so 
often  introduced,  as  if  for  contrast,  among  similar  ferocious 
beasts  and  chimoeras,  on  the  vases  of  the  First,  or  so-called  Plicje- 
nician,  style.  The  outlines  were  scratched  on  the  wall,  and  the 
figures  were  all  bichromatic,  black  and  red,  painted  on  the  smoothed 
surface  of  the  yellow  rock,  which  was  seme  with  quaint  conven- 
tional representations  of  leaves  and  flowers,  as  in  those  veiy 
archaic  vases.  Indeed  the  decorations  of  this  tomb  seemed  but 
faithful  copies,  on  a  magnified  scale,  of  the  figures  on  some  vases 
of  that  early  period ;  and  that  they  had  a  corresponding  antiquity 
there  could  be  no  question,  for  though  the  sepulchre  had  been 
rifled  in  past  ages,  a  relic  of  its  original  furniture  was  left  in  a 
homhylios  in  the  same  archaic  stjde.  There  can  be  no  doubt  that 
this  was  one  of  the  earliest  painted  tombs  yet  found  in  Etruria, 
although  we  may  hesitate  to  regard  its  decorations  as  works  of 
Etruscan  art ;  and  it  is  to  be  regretted  that  it  is  no  longer  open 
for  inspection.- 

On  the  hill-slope  behind  the  Tomba  della  Scimia,  is  a  tomb 
opened  many  years  since,  but  which  contains  one  of  the  few 
Etruscan  inscriptions  discovered  on  this  site,  graven  or  painted 
on  the  rock.  It  is  cut  over  a  large  bod3'-niche  in  the  inner 
chamber,  as  in  the  tomb  by  the  Ponte  Terrano,  at  Civita  Castel- 
lana.  The  inscription  is  legible,  but  does  not  appear  to  be  a 
proper  name. 

This  same  Poggio  Pienzo,  when  further  explored  in  1872,  was 
found  to  contain  the  earliest  necropolis  of  Chiusi.  Near  its 
summit  were  opened  a  number  of  httle  tombs,  lying  in  three 
rows,  utterl}'  unlike  any  yet  described,  being  sunk,  like  shallow 
wells,  to  the  depth  of  about  a  metre,  and  lined  with  pebbles  and 
broken  stones,  put  together  without  cement.  Each  of  them  con- 
tained a  single  cinerar}-  pot  of  hucchero,  from  G  to  14  inches  in 
height,  of  very  rude  formation,  either  entirel}-  plain,  or  orna- 
mented with  geometrical  patterns,  scratched  on  the  clay ;  and  all 
of  them  had  invariabl}'  one  of  their  two  handles  broken.     The 

=  Gamurrini,  Bull.  lust.  1874,  pp.  225-228. 


CHAP.  Liv.]     ]'()GG10   KEXZO   AND   ITS   SEPULCHEES.  .'337 

tombs  with  uiuulornecl  pots,  wliicli  are  mostl}'  in  the  highest  row, 
nearest  the  crest  of  the  hill,  seem  to  be  of  earlier  date  than  tlie 
others.  In  the  pots  of  both  kinds,  the  only  articles  found  among 
the  ashes  of  the  deceased,  were  crescent-shaped  razors  of  brcmze, 
and  thin  plates,  almost  square,  of  the  same  metal,  with  holes  for 
a  fringe,  which  were  supposed  to  have  been  worn  as  ornaments 
or  insignia  on  the  breast,  and  Avere  of  higher  antiquity  than  the 
razors.  There  were  also  found  a  few  fihiiUe  of  bronze,  some 
small  chains  linked  together,  and  an  object  somewhat  resembling 
a  Latin  cross,  all  of  the  same  metal;  but  no  articles  of  gold, 
silver,  ivory,  or  amber  ;  no  rings  for  the  ears  or  fingers ;  and  no 
figures,  either  of  man  or  beast,  either  scratched,  or  impressed, 
on  the  pots  which  held  the  ashes,  were  discovered  in  these  primi- 
tive sepulchres.  In  one  instance  alone,  the  lid  of  one  of  the  pots 
bore  two  figures  embracing,  which  formed  the  handle,  but  so 
rudely  fashioned  were  they,  that  they  more  nearly  resembled  a 
coujile  of  bears  hugging,  than  a  pair  of  human  beings.^ 

Still  further  from  the  town  in  the  same  direction,  or  to  the 
north-east,  lies  the  Lake  of  Chiusi,  a  piece  of  water  about  two 
square  miles  in  extent,  and  of  no  great  beaut}',  yet  heiglitening 
the  charms  of  the  surrounding  scenery'.  Though  generally  st^'led 
tlie  "Chiaro  di  Chiusi,"  it  is  the  muddiest  lake  I  have  ever  seen; 
as  golden  in  hue  as  the  Tiber,  the  Tagus,  or  the  Guadalquivir. 
Its  eastern  shore  used  to  form  the  frontier  between  the  Roman 
and  Tuscan  States,  and  at  its  southern  extremity  two  towers  still 
frown  defiance  at  each  other,  and  seem  to  sa}^  in  words  which 
have  been  applied  to  them  as  names — "  Beccati  questo,"  and 
"  Beccati  quest'altro."  In  the  olden  time  the  chief  magistrate 
of  Chiusi  used  yearly  to  wed  this  little  lake  with  a  ring,  as  tlie 
Doges  of  Venice  espoused  the  Adriatic  ;  yet  the  Chiusians  had 
no  great  reason  to  be  fond  of  their  misnamed  Chiaro,  for  its 
stagnant  waters  render  tlie  city  unliealthy  in  summer,  in  spite 
of  its  elevation."^  The  atmosphere  at  that  season  is  more  or  less 
impregnated  Avith  miasma;  it  is  alwaj's  " grossa'^  sometimes  even 
"  hdlonJa.'" 

Near  the  Lake  of  Cliiusi,  arc  the  Catacombs  of  Santa  Mustiola, 
which  are  too  like  those  of  Rome  and  its  Camj)agna,  Naples,  and 
SA'racuse,  to  require  particular  notice. 

^  II  Canonico  Tirogi,   Bull.   Inst.    IS/.'i,  opened   at   Villanova,    near   l>olo,'iia,    the 

pp.   21f)-218.     These  tombs  in  their  con-  ancient  Felsina.     See  Chajiter  LXIV, 
stniction,  a-s  well  as  in  their  furnitnre,  bore  "•  Chiusi  stands  about  5u0  feet  above  the 

a  close  resemblance  to  many  of  the  tombs  lake,  and  13U0  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
VOL.    11.  z 


338  CHIUSI.— TuE  Cemeteky.  [chap.  liv. 

In  a  slope  above  the  lake,  nearly  t\vo  miles  from  Cliiusi  is  the 

Deposito  del  Grax  Duca 

or  "del  Sovrano,"  so  called  from  lying  in  the  property  of  the 
Crown.  It  is  also  known  as  the  "  Camera  della  Paccianese," 
as  it  lies  immediately  below  the  Podere,  or  farm,  of  that  name. 

I  was  startled  on  entering  ;  so  unexpected  was  the  sight.  Yet 
the  walls  blazed  not  with  gorgeous  colours — no  Bacchanals 
danced  before  me — no  revellers  lay  on  their  couches — no  athlet<e' 
contended  in  the  arena.  All  was  colourless  and  sombre.  But 
the  tomb  was  vaulted  over  with  a  i)erfcct  arch  of  neat  travertine 
masonry  ; ''  and  on  the  benches  aromid  lay  the  urns  exactly  as 
th.ey  were  found,  undisturbed  for  more  than  two  thousand  years. 
If  other  proof  were  wanting,  this  tomb  would  suffice  to  show  that 
the  Etruscans  understood  and  practised  the  arch.*" 

There  are  here  eight  urns  of  travertine,  some  without  recum- 
bent figures  on  their  lids;  and  none  with  reliefs  of  great  interest 
— Gorgon's  heads,  winged  and  snaked,  among  flowers  or  foliage 
— sea-divinities  and  winged  Idppocamin — a  i-iatera  between  two 
2JeltcE  or  half-moon  shields ;  the  most  strilcing  is  a  male  figure 
riding  on  a  panther,  though  with  none  of  the  attributes  of 
Bacchus.  The  inscriptions,  which  are  painted  in  red  or  black, 
show  this  to  be  the  tomb  of  the  Peris — one  of  the  noble  families 
of  Clusium.^ 

The  doorway  of  this  tomb  is  worthy  of  notice.  It  has  a  lintel 
of  a  single  stone,  but  above  that  is  a  low  arch  of  cuneiform  blocks 
springing  from  the  masonrv  of  the  doorposts,  which  seems  intro- 
duced to  lessen  the  pressure  of  the  superincumbent  earth  upon 
the  lintel,  but  is,  m  fact,  the  termination  of  the  vault  within. 
The  door  was  formed  like  that  of  the  Tomba  del  Colle  Casuccini, 
shown  m  the  woodcut  at  p.  322,  but  one  of  the   stone  flaps  now 

^  The  miisonry  is  not  massive,  the  courses  a  tomb  being  excavated, 
being  from  10  to  18  inches  high,  and  the  '  One  of  the  male  figures  on  these  urns 

blocks  varying  from  2^  to  85  feet  in  length.  who  is  called   "  Au.   Pursna.    Peris.  Pum- 

It  is  entirely  without  cement.     The  tomb  piial,'  must  have  been  of  the  illustrious 

is  12  feet  6  in.  long,  by  9  ft.  9  in.  wide,  race  of  Porsena  by  a  mother  of  the  gi'eat 

■which  is   consequently   the    span   of    the  Etruscan  family  of  Pumpus,  or  Pomjieius. 

vault.     The  height  is  7  feet  11  inches.  The  other  men  are  named  "  Au.  Pulphna, 

''  Though  now  in  the  slope  of  the  hill.  Peris.     Au.     Seiantial. "  —  "  Lth.     Peris, 

it  is  probable  that  this  tomb  was  originally  Matausnal." — "La.    Puljjhna.    La."  .  .   . 

built  up  as  an  indeiiendent  structure,  and  The    women    are    "Thania.    Seianti.    Pe- 

then  covered  with  earth — a  method  adopted,  risal." — "Thana.    Arntnci.   Perisalisa." — 

it  would  seem,  becau.se  the  gi-ound  in  this  '' Thana.  Arinei.  Perisalis;ii. " 
part  was  too  loose  and  friable  to  admit  of 


CHAP.  Liv.]      TOMBS  WITH  VAULTS  OF  MASONEY.  339 

lies  on  the  ffrouud  outside  tlie  tomb,  and  the  otlier  no  longer 
works  on  its  hinges.^ 

It  has  been  asserted  that  the  measurements  of  this  tomb 
■correspond  throughout  with  the  multi})les  and  divisions  of  the 
Tuscan  hraccio,  Avhich  is  known  to  be  just  double  tlie  ancient 
Iloman  foot;  and  it  is  hence  fairly  inferred  that  the  Romans 
took  that  measure  from  the  Etruscans,  and  that  it  has  descended 
unaltered  to  the  modern  inhabitants  of  Tuscany.^  I  have  often 
been  struck  with  the  same  accordance,  in  the  measurements  of 
ancient  masonry-  and  tombs  in  Etruria,  with  the  Tuscan  hraccio, 
particularly  the  tufo  masonry,  in  the  southern  district  of  the  land, 
to  which  I  have  applied  the  term  eniplecton,  which  in  the  majority 
of  instances,  even  in  the  walls  of  Iloma  (^)uadrata,  the  city 
•of  Romulus,  and  in  portions  of  those  of  Servius  TulUus,  shows 
the  same  accordance.  It  may  be  observed  also  in  several  otlier 
sepulchres  at  Chiusi.  What  other  instance  can  be  shown  of  a 
standard  measure  being  lianded  down  unchanged  through  so  many 
nges? 

This  tomb  was  discovered  in  1818.  From  the  style  of  its 
urns,  ratlier  than  from  the  character  of  its  construction,  it  may 
be  pronounced  of  no  earl}"  period  of  Etruscan  art.^ 

Deposito  di  Yigna  Grande. 

In  an  olive-sprinkled  slope,  fiicing  Monte  Cetona,  about  three 
•quarters  of  a  mile  from  Chiusi  to  the  S.S.W.,  lies  this  tomb, 
discovered  in  1839,  It  is  in  every  respect  very  similar  to  the 
Deposito  del  Gran  Duca,  being  formed,  like  that  tomb,  of  a  vault 
of  travertine  blocks  surrounded  by  benches  of  simihir  masonry, 
and  having  its  doorway  closed  by  massive  slabs  working  on  their 
hinges.  But  it  is  of  superior  construction  and  of  larger  dimen- 
sions.' The  vault  is  of  beautiful  and  regular  masoiny,  without 
■cement;  the  blocks  are  about  30  inches  long,  and  11  iiulies  (or 
half  a  Tuscan  hraccio)  in  lieight ;  and  there  are  twenty  courses 
over  all  from  bench  to  bench.  In  truth  the  arcli  is  perfect — as 
well  constructed  as  if  it  were  the  work  of  the  best  builders  of 

''  Tlie  iloor  is   six  feet  high,  au<l  alwut  this  in  construction,  thougli  nearly  double 

half  .'IS  wide.  the  size  ;  and  he  assigns  to  it  a  veiy  high 

"  See  the  observations  of  the  architect  antiquity.       Monuments     of    Lydia     and 

Del   Ilosso,   appended  to  Vermiglioli's  de-  Phrygia,  p.  5. 

.scription  of  this  tomb,  Perugia,  lSli>.  -  The  tomb  is  16J,  feet  long,  by  9."  wide, 

'  J[r.    Stcuart    describes  a  tomli   near  and  about  8  feet  high. 
Afghan  Kliiu,  in  Phrygia,  veiy  similar  to 


340  CHIUSI.— The  Cemetery.  [chap.  liv. 

luodern   times,    iiisttiul    of  datiiiu"   from    some    ceiituiies    before 
Christ. 

I'lie  door  also,  when  tlie  tomb  was  first  oi)eiied,  was  perfect, 
composed  of  two  slabs  of  travertine,  as  in  the  Tomba  Casuecini ; 
but  one  only  of  these  now  works,  the  other  bein<;'  broken  and 
prostrate.  Each  slab  had  a  handle  of  bronze,  but  this  also  has 
been  broken  otf.^  The  tondt  when  o})ened,  contained  ei^iit  urns- 
of  travertine,  the  inscriptions  on  which  showed  it  to  be  the  vault 
of  the  Therini  family.  lUit  the  urns  have  now  been  removed  to 
the  Museo  Civico,  and  the  sepulchre  stands  open  and  neglected,, 
and  in  all  probability  will  soon  be  destro^'ed  by  the  peasantry.'' 

Tomba  d'Outeo  i:  d'Euhidice. 

About  a  mile  or  more  to  the  west  of  Chiusi,  in  the  I'oggio 
delle  Case,  at  a  spot  called  I  Pianacci,  another  painted  tomb  Avas 
discovered  in  1846,  but  soon  afterwards  the  roof  fell  in  and 
choked  it,  and  the  paintings  were  destro^'ed.  This  is  much  to- 
be  regretted,  for  in  point  of  design  the  figures  in  this  tomb  had  a 
decided  superioritv  over  ever}'  other  yet  discovered  at  Chiusi. 
A  description  of  the  paintings  is  given  in  the  Apjiendix,  Note  11. 

Ill  a  hill  near  the  Poggio  Gajella,  called  Poggio  Pacciaiiesi,  or 
del  Vescovo,  because  it  is  episcopal  property,  is  a  tomb  with 
seven  chambers,  arranged  like  (itrhiiii  and  tndinhi,  some  of 
which  bear  traces  of  paintings ;  but  little  is  now  to  be  distin- 
guished beyond  a  pair  of  parti-coloured  lions  in  one  of  the  pedi- 
ments. As  the  tomb  is  often  flooded,  these  lions  may  be  left 
unbearded  by  those  who  have  seen  the  other  painted  tombs. 
Here  were  found  the  beautiful  vases,  lately  in  the  possession  of 
the  Bishop  of  Chiusi,  and  now  in  the  Museum  of  that  town. 

The  "well-tombs  "  of  Chiusi  were  not  confined  to  the  Poggio 
llenzo,  but  have  been  found  scattered  singly  or  in  groups  in 
various  parts  of  the  necropolis,  although  the  earliest  Avere  indis- 


•■*  r.iill.  Inst.   1S40,  p.  2.     Eac-li  slab  is  Ltli.  TLeiini.  Tlesnal. 

ij  feet   8   inclics  high,  by  1  foot  .'S  inches  ■ 

■w-ide,  and  4  inches  thick.  Ltli.  Therini.  Lth.  TJesnai  isa. 

■•  The  insci-iptions  on  the  urns  ran  thus 
in  lloman  letters  : — 


Tha.  Tlesnei.  Therinisa.  Puluthnal. 
Lailh.  Therini.  Lth.  Ar.  Tutiia.  Claniii.  Ilathmsnal. 


Lth.  Therini.  Uniranal.  Thaiiia.  Tutnci — (Uaniunia  Rathnms. 


cuAv.  Liv.]     WELL-TOMBS,  THE   EARLIEST   AT   CIIIUSI.  -Ml 

putiibly  those  opened  in  the  crest  of  the  above-named  hill. 
These  scattered  "well-tombs"  were  of  larger  size,  as  well  as  of 
later  date,  than  those  of  the  Poggio.  Eacli  of  them  contained  ii 
~iro,  Jin  enormous  jar,  ov pitlios,  of  terra-cotta,  sometimes  as  much 
as  two  metres  high,  within  which  were  found,  mixed  with  the 
ashes  of  the  deceased,  besides  the  usual  crescent-shaped  razor, 
objects  of  more  value,  sucli  as  bronze  weapons,  pots  of  bronze  or 
terra-cotta,  rings  of  gold,  silver,  and  iron,  with  scarabs,  or  incised 
stones,  earrings  of  gold  or  bronze ;  canoin  of  hucchero,  with  a. 
human  head  for  a  lid,  surmounted  b}^  a  small  figure,  surrounded 
by  little  women  and  dragon's  heads,  precisely  as  in  the  woodcut 
iit  p.  311,  all  so  rudely  and  clumsily  modelled  as  to  look  like  the 
infantile  efforts  of  primitive  art.  In  these  siri,  articles  in  dec- 
tram,  or  an  alloy  of  gold  witli  silvei',  first  appear ;  also  of  silver, 
ivory,  and  amber,  thougli  ver}-  rarely,  as  well  as  of  iron,  used  in 
ornaments  and  weapons,  and  sometimes  in  strigils.  Occasionally 
also  a  bronze  mask,  rudely  modelled,  has  been  found  attached  to 
the  pot  by  little  chains  of  the  same  metal.  But  spindles  of 
terra-C(jtta,  frequently  occur,  and  certain  small  cylinders,  which 
seem  to  have  served  for  weaving,  and  of  which  a  large  number 
are  sometimes  found  in  the  same  tomb.  The  zifl  were  covered 
with  a  slab,  t)n  which  have  been  found  ten  or  twelve  little  pots  of 
hucchero,  plain,  or  with  geometrical  ornaments,  together  Avith 
articles  which  seemed  of  culinary  use,  all  probably  employed  at 
the  funeral  feast.  Over  these  was  laid  another  slab,  and  the 
space  around  the  siro  Avas  filled  in  A\"ith  the  charcoal  of  the  p.yre, 
wliich  kept  the  huge  urn  free  from  the  contact  of  the  soil.  In  a 
tomb  of  this  descrii)tion  were  found  two  axes  of  bronze,  one  Avith 
a  handle  of  iron  encircled  with  ivory,  inlaid  with  amber,  and  both 
of  admirable  workmanship. 

There  can  be  no  doubt  that  these  well-tombs  are  the  most  ancient 
in  the  necropolis  of  Chiusi.  They  bear  no  traces  of  inscriptions  ; 
the  pottery  the}'  contain  is  hand-inade,  and  its  decorations  are 
always  geometrical,  and  drawn  by  the  liand,  never  in  relief,  in- 
stamped  on  the  clay,  as  on  the  hucchero  vases  found  in  the  early 
chamber-tombs.  Gold,  silver,  iron,  amber,  ivory,  are  all  very 
rare  ;  bronze  is  comparatively  abundant.  They  evidently  belong 
to  an  age  in  wliich  the  arts  of  pottery  and  of  design  were  in  their 
earliest  infancy.'' 

The  fact  that  in  tliese  tombs  human  ashes  are  invariabl}-  found 

'  See  ;in  article  in  the  ]>ull.  Inst.  1875,       Brogi,  fiom  wliich  the  aliove  account  lias 
pp.   21t)-220,    hy  the    Canonico    '.Tiovanni       been  taken. 


342  CHIUSI.— The  Cejieteky.  [chap.  liv. 

Avithiii  the  jur,  proves  that  cremation  was  practised  at  Cliiusi  from 
the  remotest  times,  and  it  seems  to  have  continued  in  vogue  on 
this  site,  down  to  the  period  of  the  Iloman  domination. 

The  wonders  of  the  Poggio  Gajella  demand  a  separate  chapter. 


APPENDIX    TO    CHAPTER    LIV. 

Note  I. — Depcsito  de'  Dei.    See  page  328. 

This  tomb  ^\as  discovered  in  182G.  It  received  its  name  from  the  family 
in  whose  ground  it  lay,  which  was  about  two  miles  from  Chiusi  to  the 
north-west.^  It  contained  three  chambers.  The  fiieze  round  the  principal 
chamber  was  devoted  entirely  to  games.  Here  was  a  race  of  three  higce,  as 
in  the  Casuccini  tomb,  but  drawn  with  more  variety  and  spirit.  The  steeds 
were  springing  from  the  gi'ound,  as  in  the  gallop,  but  the  middle  pair  was 
nfi-actoiy,  and  in  then-  rearing  and  plunging  had  broken  the  shaft  and 
kicked  the  chariot  high  mto  the  air,  and  the  milucky  aun'r/a,  still  holduig 
reins  and  whiji,  was  performing  a  somerset  over  their  heads.- 

There  Avas  a  repetition  of  the  subjects  of  the  Tomba  Casuccini,  but  Avith 
some  varietj'.  A  woman  was  dancing  with  crotalu  to  the  music  of  a  suhulo^ 
— two  pugilists  were  boxhig  -tt-ith  the  cesiits,  one  being  the  exact  counterpart 
of  the  figure  in  the  other  tomb, — a  naked  man  anned  was  performing  a 
P^Trhic  dajice  to  the  sound  of  the  double-pipes,' — another  leaping  with  the 
dimib-bells, — a  pair  of  wrestlers,  or  tumblers,  in  almost  the  same  position, 
with  an  agonothetes  leaning  on  his  staff  and  seeing  fair  play  ;  and  a  jiot  of 
oil  rested  on  a  slender  pole  hard  by,  from  which  they  might  anoint  tlieir 
limbs. 

In  addition,  there  was  a  discobolus,  about  to  cast  his  quoit, — a  man  with 
two  long  poles,  perhaps  javelins,* — a  boy  Avith  two  nondescript  articles 
attached  to  a  string, — four  youths  about  to  contend  in  a  foot-race,  under  the 
directions  of  a  2'('-'dotHhes,  who  appeared  to  be  marking  the  starting-post, — 
two  men  playing  at  asrolia,  or  trjing  to  leap  on  to  a  greasy  vase,  over  which 
one  was  stumbling  unsuccessfully^ — and  a  pair  of  figures  which  I  can  only 

'  It  lay  in  a  bill,  from  -whicli  it  received  represents  this  man  (tav.  70)  as  holding  a 

the  second  name  of  Tomba  del  Poggio  al  long  curved  pole. 

More.     Kestner   described    it    under   the  '  It  was  not,  generally  vases,  but  leathern 

name  of  Grotta  delle  Monache.    Ann.  Inst.  bottles— dcKoi — that   were   used    in  this 

1829,  p.  116.  sport;  or  goat-skins  filled  ^^■ith  wind,  and 

'■*  Dr.  Eraun  (Ann.  Inst.  1850,  p.   255)  greased,  as  Virgil  (Georg.  II.  384)  describes 

tmnks  the  chariot  is  supposed  to  be  upset  them — 

by  some  obstacle  pui-posely  thro^^-n  in  its  MoUibus  in  pratis  unctos  saluere  per  utres. 
■way,  as  shown  in  the  loraba  della  Jscimia. 

•'  It  is  possible  that  this  figure  was  in-  See  also  Pollux,  IX.  cap.  7.     This  wa»  an 

tended   to  be  hurling   liis  lance.      If  so,  amusement  also  of  the  Athenians,  and  it 

there  were  depicted  in  this  tomb  all  the  was    of    Bacchic    character,    for   the   goat 

games  of  the  Pentathlon,  or  Quinquertium,  whose  skin  furnished  the  sport  had  pre- 

viz.  leaping  (here  with   dumb-bells) — the  viously  been  s,aerificed   to   the  jolly  god. 

foot-race — casting  the  d incus — hurling  the  The  skin  became  the  prize  of  him  who  suc- 

spear — and  wrestling.  ceeded  in  keeping  his  footing  on  it.    Schol. 

■*  Micali  (Ant.  Pop.  Ital.   III.  p.   110),  Aristoph.  Phit.  1129.     It  was  an  amuse- 


CHAP.  Liv.]        PAINTED    TOMBS    NOW    EE-CLOSED.  343 

<'Xi>l;iiii  as  an  atliU-te,  [ilayiiig  at  Iiall  with  a  boy,  i.e.,  makiiif^  tlu-  boy  hi.s 
ball,  for  he  had  one  knee  to  the  ground,  with  his  hand  raised  as  if  to  catch 
the  boy,  whom  he  had  tossed  over  his  head.  Hard  by  were  a  coujile  of 
stout  sticks,  propped  against  each  other,  which  perhaps  represented  the  spring 
board,  by  which  the  boy  was  thrown  into  the  air.® 

The  banquets  in  this  tond)  were  pahited  in  the  pediments  over  the 
side-doors.  In  each  scene  were  three  figures,  nuiles,  reclining  on  cushions. 
One  played  the  lyre  ;  another  held  a  iiower  ;  a  third,  a  branch  of  olive  ;  a 
fourth  offered  a  goblet  to  his  neighbour.  In  one  corner  a  slave  was  busy  at 
a  mixing-vase,  like  that  in  the  Tomba  del  Colle.  In  one  i^ediment  was  a 
dog,  in  the  other  something  which  might  be  a  saddle,  or  anything  you 
pleased  ;  it  seemed  introduced  merely  to  fill  the  angle.  But  what  was  more 
remarkable — in  each  pediment  one  of  the  figures  had  the  face  of  a  dog  ;  it 
was  at  least  so  scratched  on  the  wall,  the  colour  being  almost  effaced. 

The  only  painting  in  the  inner  chamber  was  a  hideous  mask  or  Gorgon's 
face  with  tongue  hanging  out.^  Here,  as  well  as  in  the  other  two  chambers, 
were  a  munber  of  nnis  and  other  sepulchral  monuments.  One  sarcophagus 
had  a  female  figure  reclining  on  the  lid,  and  holding  a  small  bird  in  her 
hand — the  effigy  of  some  Etruscan  Lesbia  with  her  sparrow,  her  delicicB, 

Quern  i)lus  ilia  oculis  suis  amabat ; 

and  her  mourning  Catullus  chose  thus  to  immortalise  his  love  and  her 
passion  in  stone. 

In  the  outer  chamber  the  figures  were  on  a  white  ground  ;  in  the  inner, 
the  Gorgoneion  was  painted  on  the  native  rock,  which  is  here  of  a  greenish 
grey  hue.^ 

Among  the  sepulchral  inscriptions  there  was  one  of  ])ilingual  character.'' 

Note  II. — Tojiija  d'Oiifko  k  d'Euridice.     See  page  340. 

This  tomb  contained  three  chambers,  two  of  which  were  decorated  with 
pamtings.  In  one,  a  man  with  a  light  clilumys  on  his  shoulders,  was  playing 
the  lyre  in  the  midst  of  a  group  of  dancers,  one  of  whom  was  a  Avoman. 
Antiquaries  thought  to  see  in  this  scene  Orpheus  fetching  Eurydice  from  the 
shades;  and  the  inclination  of  the  two  principal  figures  towards  each  other, 
and  the  eagerness  of  the  nymph,  who  seemed  running,  ratlier  than  dancing, 


C.    VENSIVS.    c. 

CAESIA    NATVS. 


luent  much  akin  to  the  greasy  pole  and  riiNALisLii:.     The  Roman  epitaph  is 

llitcli  of  bacon  of  our  own  rustic  fairs  ami 

merry-makings.     From  the  action  of  liop- 

liing  in  this  game,   tlie  term   came  to  be 

applied     to     hopping     on    any    occasion.  It  will  be  observed  that  the  names  do  not 

Aristoph.  loc.  cit. ;  I'ollux,  II.  c.  4.  seem  to  correspond,  the  "  Velus  "  of  the 

^  I\Iicali  (Ant.   Pop.    Ital.    III.   p.    110)  Etruscan,  as  in  the  other  bilingual  inscrip- 

designates  tliis  game,   "  il  salto  del  caved-  tion,  given  at  p.  30(5,  being  rendered  by 

Ictto."  *'Caius"  in  the  Latin.     Yet  Kellermann 

^  Micali,  Ant.  Pop.  Ital.  tav.  102,  4.  seems  to  regard  them  as  referring  to  one 

"  In  a  tomb  near  this,   Signer  Luccioli  and  the  same  individual.    Dull.  Inst.  1S33, 

discovered,  in  1839,  about  a  hundred  vases  pp.  49,  51. 

of  the  black  relieved  ware,  all  glued  together  This  tomb  has  been  illustrated  and  de- 

in  a  mass  by  the  sandy  earth,  and  in  the  .scribed  by  Micali,  Ant.  Pop.  Ital.  tav.  6i', 

centre   was  a  painted    tazza   in    the    best  70.     III.   pp.  108-111.     Inghirami,    Mas. 

style.     Bull.  Inst.  1840,  pp.  r>,  61,1.53.  Chins.  II.  tav.  122--133.     Kestner,  Ann. 

"  The    Etruscan    inscription  would   run  Inst.  1829,  pp.  11(5-120. 
thus     in    Latin    letters,    vel.     veszilea 


34 -1  CmUSI. — The  Cemetery.  [chap,  liv, 

towanls  the  cltharaHlus  uith  out-strt'ttlicil  arms,  api>eared  to  favour  tliis 
opinion.  If  this  wore  the  true  interpretation,  the  other  dancers  niiglit  he 
supposed  to  represent  souls  attracted  and  animated  by  the  magic  of  his 
lyre.  It  might  be  doubted,  howcAer,  if  this  were  the  real  purport  of  the 
scene,  not  because  subjects  from  the  mytholog}-  of  the  Greeks  are  rarely 
depicted  on  the  Avails  of  Etruscan  tombs,  though  so  commonly  introduced  in 
the  rehcfs  on  sepulchral  urns  and  sarcophagi,  but  rather  because  in  its  general 
character  the  scene  did  not  differ  greatly  from  the  many  other  Avall-paintings 
which  represent  the  ordinary  dances  at  the  funeral  rites.  The  trees,  which 
alternated  with  the  ligin-es,  were  drawn  with  iiutre  truth  and  freedom  than 
usual. 

The  other  painted  chamber  exhibitctl  festive  scenes— males  reclining  at  the 
banquet,  a  subulo  playing  the  double-pipes,  and  a  mixing-jar,  with  the  ligure 
of  a  Satyr  painted  on  it,  standing  on  the  ground.  On  another  wall  a  boy  was 
bringing  a  pair  of  slijipers  to  one  of  the  revellers.' 

The  tomb  belonged  to  the  Conte  della  Ciaja,  liy  wiiose  name  it  was  often 
designated. 

In  point  of  antiquity  the  paintings  in  this  tomb  appear  to  rank  between 
those  of  the  Tomba  della  Scimia  andof  theTombaCasuccini,  and  to  belong  to 
the  second  period  of  Etruscan  art,  which  is  designated  as  the  Gra?co-Etruscan. 
Ilelbig  i^laces  them  after  the  Grotta  del  Citaredo,  and  before  the  Grotte 
Tiiclinio,  Querciola,  and  Bighe  of  Corneto."  Brunn  refers  them  to  an 
advanced  i^enod  of  archaic  art,  a  period  in  which,  while  retaining  great 
simj^licity  of  design  and  colouring,  and  somewhat  still  of  Etruscan  rigidity. 
they  show  a  manifest  development  under  Hellenic  iniluence,  and  even  betray 
a  studious  endeavour  to  penetrate  into  the  spirit  of  Greek  art.  In  comparison 
with  the  Tarquinian  paintings  spccitied  above,  he  pronounces  them  to  ai)pear 
more  free,  harmonious,  and  noble.^ 

^  For  a  description  and  ilhistrations  of       Inst.  1850,  tav.  17. 
the  paintings  in  this  tomb,  see  Ann.  Inst.  -  Ann.  lust.  1863,  p.  352. 

1S5U,  pp.  280 — 285 — Braun;  ilon.  Inedit.  ^  Ann.  Inst.  1866,  p.  427. 


CINERARY    URN,    IN    THE    I'ORJI    OF    AN    ETRUSCAN    HOUiE,    FROM    CUIUSI. 


CHAPTER    LV. 

CHiusL— ^'zr.s'/ra/. 

POGGIO   GaJELLA. 

Credc  inilii,  vires  alupias  natiua  sepulcris, 
Attribuit ;  tumulos  vindicat  umbra  sno.s. 

Seneca. 

Ut  cjuomlan  Creta  feiiur  Labyrintbus  in  alta 
Parietibus  textnm  ciecis  iter,  ancipitenique 
Jtille  viis  babuisse  dohim,  fjua  signa  sequendi 
Falleret  indeprensus  et  irremealtilis  eiTor. 

YlRGIL. 

It  is  a  iK^table  fact  that  but  one  description  of  an  P^truscan 
tomb  is  to  be  found  in  ancient  writers  ;  and  that  tomb  Avas  at 
Chisium — tlie  mausoleum  of  Lars  Porsena.  It  is  thus  descriljed 
by  Varro,  as  quoted  by  Pliny  : — 

**  He  was  buried  under  the  city  of  Clusium,  in  a  spot  where 
he  has  left  a  monument  in  rectangular  masonry,  each  side 
whereof  is  three  hundred  feet  wide,  and  fifty  high,  and  within 
the  s(piare  of  the  basement  is  an  inextricable  labyrintli,  out  of 
whi(  h  no  one  who  ventures  in  without  a  clue  of  thread  can  evei- 
find  an  exit.  On  that  square  basement  stand  five  pyramids,  four 
at  the  angles,  and  one  in  the  centre,  each  being  seventy-five  feet 
wide  at  its  base,  and  one  hundred  and  fifty  high,  and  all  so  ter- 
minating above  as  to  support  a  bra/en  circle  and  a  pet(i>ii(s,  from 
which  are  hung  by  chains  certain  bells,  which,  when  stirred  by 
the  wind,  resound   afar  off,  as  was  formerlv  the  case  at  Dodona. 


346  CHITJSI.— PoGGio  Gajella.  [chap.  lv. 

Upon  this  circle  four  other  pyramids  are  based,  each  rising  to 
the  height  of  one  hundred  feet.  And  above  these,  from  one 
floor,  live  more  pyramids,  the  height  whereof  Varro  was  ashamed 
to  mention.  The  Etruscan  fables  record  that  it  was  equal  to 
that  of  the  rest  of  the  structure." 

This  description  is  so  extravagant,  that  it  raised  doubts  even 
in  the  mind  of  the  all-credulous  Pliny,  who  would  not  commit 
himself  by  recording  it,  save  in  the  very  words  of  Yarro.^  Can 
we  wonder  that  the  moderns  should  be  inclined  to  reject  it  in 
toto  !  Niebuhr  regarded  it  as  a  mere  dream, — "  a  building  totall}' 
inconceivable,  except  as  the  work  of  magic," — no  more  substan- 
tial than  the  palace  of  Aladdin." 

But  at  the  same  time  that  Ave  allow  such  an  edifice  as  Varro 
describes,  to  be  of  very  difficult,  if  not  impossible  construction, 
we  should  pause  before  we  reject  the  statement  as  utterly  false 
and  fabulous.  It  is  the  dimensions  alone  which  startle  us. 
Granting  these  to  be  greatly  exaggerated,  the  structure  is  not 
impracticable.  AVe  should  consider  the  peculiarities  of  its  con- 
struction, and  if  we  find  an  analogy  between  it  and  existing 
monuments,  we  may  pronounce  it  to  be  even  within  the  bounds  of 
probability.  A  monument  would  hardly  have  been  traditional,  had 
it  not  been  characteristic.  However  national  vanity  mav  have 
exaggerated  its  dimensions,  or  extravagantly  heightened  its  pecu- 

^  Plin.  X.  H.  XXXVI.  19,  4. — Xamque  pyramides ;  quanim  altitudinem  Yarronem 

et  Italicum  (labyrinth um)  dici  convenit,  puduit  adjicere.     Fabulse  Etniscse  tradunt 

quem  fecit  sibi  Porsenna  rex  Etruriw  se-  eandem  fuisse,  quaoi  totius  opeiis  :  adeo 

puicri  causa,  simul  iit  extemoruni  regum  vesana  dementia  qutesisse  gloriam  impendio 

Tanitas  quoque  ab  Italis  superetur.     Sed  nuUi  profuturo.     Praeterea  fatigasse  regni 

cum    exeedat  omnia  fabulositas,    utemur  vires,  ut  tamen  laus  major  artificis  esset. 
ipsius   51.    Yarronis    in    expositione    ejus  -  Xiebuhr,  I.  pp.  130,  551.  Engl,  trans, 

verbis : — Sepultus   est,    inquit,    sub    urbe  Letronne    (Ann.    Instit.    1S29,    pp.    386- 

Clusio  ;  in  quo  loco  monumentum  reliquit  395)   thinks    it  nothing    more   than  the 

lapide  quadrato  :  singula  latera  i)edum  lata  fragment  of  an  Etruscan  epic,  preserved  in 

tricendm,  alta  quinquagenum  ;  inque  basi  the  religious  and  jjoetical  traditions  of  the 

quadi-ala  intus  labyrinthum  inextricabilem  :  country.     So  also  Orioli,  who  puts  on  it  a 

quo  si  quis  improperet  sine  glomere  lini,  mystic  interpretation.     Ann.    Inst.  1833, 

exitum  invenire  nequeat.     Supra  id  quad-  p.  43.     The  Due  de  Luynes,  however,  and 

ratum  pyramides  stant   quinque,  quatuor  Quatremere  de  Quincy  believed  the  whole 

in  angulis,   in  medio  una  :    in  irao  latse  tale  literally,  and  have  attempted  to  restore 

pedum  quiniim  septuagenum,  alta?  centum  the  monument  from  the  description.    Ann. 

quinquagenum:  ita  fa^-tigatie,  ut  in  summo  Inst.    1829,  p.  30i-9.     Mon.  Ined.   Inst, 

orbis  aeneus  et  petasus  unus  omnibus  sit  I.,    tav.    13.     Canina    has    also    made  a 

impositus,  ex  quo  pendeant  exapta  catenis  restoration    of    this   monument.      Archit. 

tintinnabula,    quae    vento    agitata,    longe  Ant.    Seg.    Sec.    tav.    159.      The    worthy 

sonitus  referant,  ut  Dodonae  olim  factum.  father  Angelo  Cortenovis  wTote  a  treatise 

Supra  quem  orbem  quatuor  pyramides  in-  to  prove  it  was  nothing  more  than  a  huge 

super,  singulae   esstant   altoe   pedum  cen-  electrical  machine, 
tenftm.     Supra    quas    uno    solo    quinque 


CHAP.  Lv.]  THE    TOMB    OF    LAES    PORSEXA.  347 

liarities,  it  could  not  have  conceived  of  something'  utterly  foreign 
to  its  experience  ;  any  more  than  a  Druid  bard  could  have  sung 
of  a  temple  like  the  Parthenon,  or  an  Athenian  fable  have 
described  a  palace  like  the  Alhambra.  That  such  was  the 
Etruscan  tradition  we  cannot  doubt,  for  Varro  was  not  the  man 
to  invent  a  marvellous  talc,  or  to  colour  a  stor}'  more  highly  than 
he  received  it.^ 

No  one  can  doubt  that  a  magnificent  sepulchre  was  raised  for 
Lars  Porsena,  the  powerful  chieftain,  whose  very  name  struck 
terror  into  Rome,  and  Avhose  victorious  arms,  but  for  his  own 
magnanimit}',  might  have  swept  her  from  the  map  of  Italy.  The 
site,  too,  of  such  a  monument  would  naturally  be  at  Clusimu,  his 
cajiital.  That  it  was  of  extraordinary  dimensions  and  splendour 
is  likely  enough ;   otherwise  it  would  not  have  been 

"  A  worthy  tomb  for  such  a  worthy  wight " — • 

the  greatest  Tltruscan  prince  and  hero  whom  history  commemo- 
rates ;  nor  would  it  have  been  thus  traditionally  recorded.  That 
it  had  a  square  basement  of  regular  masonry,  supporting  five 
pjTamids,  as  descri])ed  by  the  legend,  is  no  way  improbable, 
seeing  that  just  such  a  tomb  is  extant — the  well-known  sepulchre 
on  the  Appian  Way  at  Albano,  vulgarly  called  that  of  the  Horatii 
and  Curiatii.*'  And  though  that  tomb  be  Eoman  and  of 
llepublican  date,  it  shows  the  existence  of  such  a  style  in  early 
times  ;  and  its  uniqueness  also  favours  the  antiquity  of  its  model. 
"Whether  the  analogy  was  carried  further  in  this  monument  it  is 

•'  ^liiller  (Etrusk.  TV.  2,  1)  is  of  opinion  in  Italy.  And  Abeken  (JlittchtaHen,  p. 
that  the  lower  part  with  the  labyrinth  246)  considers  it,  in  its  fundamental  con- 
really  existed,  and  that  the  upper,  though  ditions,  to  be  thoroughly  national,  and  in 
greatly  exaggerated,  was  not  the  mere  accordance  with  otlier  edifices  of  the  land, 
offspring  of  fancy.  He  thinks  that  Yarro  '*  In  that  instance,  however,  there  arc 
must  have  seen  a  portion  of  the  monument  cones,  not  pyramids,  but  the  latter  word  is 
he  describes — "he  would  hardly  have  thought  by  some  to  have  had  a  generic 
gathered  such  precise  statements  from  application  to  anything  having  the  tapering 
mere  hearsay;  yet  the  upper  part,  from  foi-m  of  a  ilame.  Canina  (Ann.  Inst.  1S37, 
what  point  upwards  is  uncertain,  was  2,  i>.  56)  objects  to  this  on  the  authority 
merely  pictured  to  him  by  the  inhabitants  of  Cicero  (Xat.  Deor.  II.  18);  who,  how- 
of  the  city."  Niebuhr  (I.  p.  130),  how-  ever,  merely  mentions  the  pyramid,  the 
ever,  thinks  Varro  took  his  description  cone,  and  the  cylinder  as  distinct  forms, 
from  the  Etruscan  books.  Oinoli  (ap.  Tombs  with  square  basements  of  large  size, 
Inghir.  Mon.  Etrus.  IV.  p.  167)  thinks  either  for  mounds  of  earth,  or  for  the  sup- 
Varro's  picture  must  have  been  not  only  port  of  pyramids  or  cones,  like  that  of 
consi.stent  with  the  Etruscan  style  of  archi-  Albano,  are  still  extant  at  Cervetri.  Vol.  I. 
lecture,  but  drawn  from  a  real  object,  jubt  j).  275.  For  the  tomb  at  Albano,  see 
as  the  i)alaces  of  Ariosto's  and  Tasso's  remarks  at  VoL  I.  p.  454. 
imagination  bad  evidently  their  originals 


348  CmUSI.— PoGGio  Gajeli.a.  [chap.  lv. 

impossible  to  say,  for  its  cones  now  support  nothing  Lut  them- 
selves, and  cannot  even  do  that  without  assistance.  The  Cueu- 
mella  of  Vulci,  ■with  its  walled  basement  and  pair  of  towers, 
square  and  conical,  and  its  Lydian  cousin,  the  royal  sepulcln-e  of 
Sardis,  with  its  diadem  of  five  termini,  thougli  both  are  circular 
ill  the  basement,  bear  also  a  strong  affinity  to  the  Yarronian 
picture.'  For  furtlier  analogies  it  is  not  necessary  to  seek, 
tliough  Yarro  himself  suggests  one  for  the  bolls  ;  because  the 
superstructure  is  just  that  pait  of  the  edifice,  which  ofi'ered  a 
field  for  the  imagination  of  tlie  legend-mongers.^ 

But  the  distinguishing  feature  of  Porsena's  tomb  Avas  the 
labyrinth,  which  alone  led  Pliny  to  mention  it.  Here,  if  in  any 
point,  we  may  consider  the  tradition  to  speak  truth ;  and  here, 
as  Avill  presently  be  shown,  a  close  analogy  may  be  traced 
to  existing  monuments.  Now  the  labyrinth  being  within  the 
basement,  was  in  all  probability  underground ;  which  may 
account  for  it  not  being  visible  in  Pliny's  dav.  The  upper 
portion  of  the  monument,  whatever  it  may  have  been,  had  pro- 
bably been  long  previously  destroyed  in  the  Gallic  or  Ptoman 
sieges  of  Clusium,  and  the  labyrinth  itself,  with  the  sepulchral 
chambers,  ma}'  have  been  completely  buried  beneath  the  ruins  of 
the  superstructure,  so  that  even  its  site  had  been  forgotten.' 
That  this  labyrinth,  liowever,  actually  had  an  existence,  there  is 
no  ground  for  doubt ;  such  is  the  opinion  of  distinguished  critics 
who  have  considered  the  subject.  Niebulir,  indeed,  struck  with 
tlie  extravagance  of  Yarro's  description,  condemned  it  at  once  as 
fabulous,  which  as  an  historian  he  was  justified  in  doing.     It  is 

*  See  Vol.  I.  pij.  A')2-A.     The  tlppl  so  aspect  recalls  to  every  one  who  has  regarded 

commonly  found  in  Etruscan  tombs,  in  the  such  monuments  with  an  experienced  eye, 

form  of  truncated  cones  on  square  pedestals  the  i)eculiarities  of  the  tomb  of  Poi-senna." 

— sometimes  several  rising  from  one  base-  Cf.  Bull.  Inst.  1840,  p.  150. 
ment — bear  much  analogy  to  the  pyramids  '  Alieken   remarks  with  justice,  that  if 

of  the  Clusian   legend,    still  more  to  the  themonument  had  lieen  entirely  of  masonn, 

tomb  at  Albano.  it  could   not  jiossibly  have   utterly  disap- 

**  Dr.  Braun  points  out  the  analogy  ex-  peared,  especially  so  early  as  Pliny's  time  ; 
i.sting  between  the  far-projecting  roofs  of  and  thinks  it  was  more  probably  a  hill  or 
Etru.scan  houses — as  we  know  them  from  mound  like  the  Capitoline  area  of  Rome, 
the  imitations  in  cinerary  urns— and  the  Ann.  Inst.  1841,  p.  34  ;  ]^Iittelitalien, 
jntasun,  which  Varro  describes  as  resting  p.  245.  In  this  case,  when  the  surround- 
on  the  lower  tier  of  pjTamids.  Labennto  ing  inasoni^  was  removed,  the  rest  of  the 
<li  Porsenna,  comparato  coi  sepolcri  di  monument  would  soon  lose  its  artificial 
Poggio  (iajella,  p.  3.  Such  an  uni,  of  character  and  sink  into  a  natural  mound  ; 
fetid  limestone,  in  the  shape  of  a  house,  yet  though  all  the  external  adornments  of 
with  an  overhanging  roof,  is  represented  in  the  tomb  might  have  perished,  the  laby- 
tlie  woodcut  at  the  heati  of  this  chapter.  rinth,  being  in  all  probability  excavated  in 
Of  this  uni,  Braun  remarks,    "its  singular  tlie  rock,  must  have  remained. 


CHAP.  T.V.]    LABYEINTII  IN  POESENA'S  MONUMENT.  349 

the  province  of  the  iiuti([uarv  to  exiuiiine  the  details  and  consider 
liow  far  they  are  sui)ported  by  resison  and  anah)gy.  IM Idler, 
therefore,  makes  a  decided  distinction  l)et\veen  the  npper  and 
lower  part  of  the  structure,  and  is  of  opinion,  not  only  that  the 
latter  with  the  labyrinth,  had  an  existence,  but  that  it  was  still 
extant  in  the  days  of  Varro."* 

It  is  not  idle  then  to  believe  that  some  vestiges  of  this  labyrinth 
may  still  exist,  and  to  expect  that  it  may  yet  be  brought  to  light. 
If  subterranean,  it  was  in  all  probability  excavated  in  the  rock, 
and  traces  of  it  Avould  not  easily  be  effsiced.  In  truth  it  has  often 
been  sought,  and  found — in  the  opinion  of  the  seekers,  who  have 
generally  placed  it  on  the  site  of  Chiusi  itself,  in  the  subterranean 
passages  of  the  garden  Paoloz/i,  or  in  those  beneath  the  city  : 
misled  perhaps  by  Pliny's  expression,  "  ,s'?f7;  urhe  Clusio."  Ihxt 
that  such  was  its  position,  the  general  analogy  of  the  sei^ulchral 
economy  of  the  Etruscans  forbids  us  to  believe.  It  was  more 
probably'  outside  the  walls,  and  if  it  were  in  one  of  the  vallevs 
around,  it  would  be  equally  "below  the  city." 

Some  few  years  since,  the  attention  of  the  antiquarian  world 
was  much  drawn  to  the  tomb  of  Porsena,  in  consequence  of  the 
discovery  at  Chiusi  of  a  monument  not  only  novel  in  character, 
but  Avith  peculiarities  strikingly  analogous,  and  in  extent  sur- 
l^assing  every  other  Etruscan  sepulchre. 

About  three  miles  to  the  north  of  Chiusi  is  a  hill  called 
Poggio  Gajella,  the  termination  of  the  range  on  which  the 
city  stands. 

There  is  nothing  remarkable  in  the  appearance  of  this  height ; 
it  is  of  the  yellow  arenaceous  earth  so  common  in  this  district ;  '•* 
its  crest  is  of  the  same  conical  form  as  most  of  the  hills  around, 
and  it  is  covered  with  a  light  wood  of  (,)aks.  There  was  no 
reason  to  suspect  the  existence  of  ancient  sepulchres  ;  for  it  was 
not  a  mere  tumulus,  but  a  hill,  raised  by  nature,  not  by  art. 
Yet  it  has  proved  to  be  a  vast  sepulchre,  or  rather  a  cemeter}-  in 
itself — a  pohjandrion — an  isolated  city  of  the  dead — situated  like 
other  ancient  cities  on  the  summit  of  a  hill — fenced  around  with 
walls  and  fosse,  filled  with  the  abodes  of  the  dead,  carved  into 
the   very  forms,   and    adorned    with    tlie    very  decorations    and 

^  Etniskcr,    IV.    2,    1.     So    also    tliink  but  it  is  decidedly  of  aqueous  deposition, 

Thierscli  (Alihandlnng  der  Miinclinei-  Aka-  often  containing   oyster-shells,   and    other 

demie,  I.  p.  415)  and  Aheken  (Ann.  Instit.  marine  suh.stances.     It  is   comiiact  when 

1841,   p.  33  ;    Mittelitalicn,    p.  214)   who  moist,    hut   extremely  friable  when    dry; 

cites  him.  and,  like  chalk,  it  has  occasional  layers  of 

'■^  Grunercalls  this  rock  a  volcanic /If  H/ro,  Hint. 


350  CHIUSI.— roGGio  Gajella.  [chap.  lv. 

furniture  of  those  of  the  living,  arranged  in  distinct  terraces,  and 
communicating  by  the  usual  network  of  streets  and  alleys.^ 

I  know  not  what  first  induced  Signer  Pietro  Bonci-Casuccini, 
the  owner  of  the  hill,  to  make  excavations  here ;  it  may  have 
been  merely  in  pursuance  of  his  long  and  systematic  researches 
on  his  estate.  But  in  the  winter  of  1839-iO  the  spade  was 
applied,  and  very  soon  brought  to  light  the  marvels  of  the 
mound. 

About  the  base  of  the  conical  crest  was  unearthed  a  crepis,  or 
circuit  of  masonry,  of  rectangular  blocks  of  travertine,  un- 
cemented,  from  two  to  four  feet  in  length ;  and  around  this  was 
a  fosse  three  or  four  feet  wide.  Man}'  of  the  blocks,  removed 
from  their  original  places,  lay  scattered  at  the  base  of  the  mound 
when  I  first  visited  the  hill,  but  not  one  is  now  to  be  seen ;  yet 
the  fosse  may  still  be  traced,  and  will  be  found  to  mark  a 
circumference  of  more  than  nine  hundred  feet.- 

Above  it  the  crest  of  the  hill  rises  some  forty  or  fifty  feet,  and 
in  its  slopes  open  the  tombs,  not  in  a  smgle  row,  but  in  several 
tiers  or  terraces,  one  above  the  other ;  and  not  in  regular  or 
continuous  order,  but  in  groups.  A  single  i)assage  of  great 
length  cut  into  the  heart  of  the  hill,  and  at  right  angles  with 
the  girdhng  fosse,  generally  leads  into  a  spacious  antechamber,  or 
(itriiim,  on  which  open  several  smaller  chambers,  or  triclinia,  just 
as  in  the  tombs  of  Ciiere.'^  Both  atriiun  and  triclinia  are  sur- 
rounded by  benches  of  rock  for  the  sui)port  of  the  bodies  or  of 
sarcophagi.  The  doors  are  all  moulded  in  the  usual  Egyptian 
form,  with  an  overlianging  square-headed  Imtel.  The  ceilings 
are  generally  fiat,  and  cofi'ered  in  recessed  squares  or  oblongs,  as 
in  the  other  tombs  of  Chiusi,  or  they  are  carved  into  beams  and 
rafters.  They  are  painted  in  the  usual  style,  and  the  walls  also 
in  certain  chambers  had  pamted  figures,  which  though  almost 
eJBFaced  and  in  no  case  very  distinct,  might,  at  my  first  visit,  be 
recognised  as  those  of  dancers  or  athletce,  circling  the  apartments 
in  a  frieze,  about  twenty  inches  high.^      The}'  ai-e    no  longer 

^  Conical    mounds   or   isolated  rocks  of  been  found  encircling  tombs  at  Sta  ilari- 

other  forms,  full  of  sepulchres,  are  not  un-  nella  and  Selva  la  Rocai ;  and  a  fosse  is 

common  in  Asia  !Minor.    Mr.  Steuart  speaks  cut  in  the  rock  round  a  tumulus  at  I'ieda. 

of  one  at  Dogan-lu,  in  Phrygia  (Lydia  and  See  Vol.  I.  p.  217. 

Phiygia,  p.  II),  and  Sir  Ciiai'Ies  Fellows  ^  The  antechamber  still  more  nearly  re- 
describes  and  illustrates  one  at  Pinara  in  sembles  an  atrium,  inasmuch  as  the  roof 
Lycia.     Fellows'  Lycia,  p.  139.  has  now  in  most  instances  fallen  in,  leaving 

2  Abeken  (Ann.  Inst.   1841,  p.  31)  says  it  open  to  the  sky. 

285  metres,   which  are  equal  to  938  feet  *  The  principal  of  these  paintings  were 

English.     A  similar  wall   and  fosse  huve  in  a  gi-oup  of  tombs  to  the  right  of  the 


PLAN    OF    A    POETIOX    OF    THE    PEIXCIPAL    STOEY 

IX     THE 

POGGIO      GAJELLA. 


^ 


a  Entrance  fi-om  the  south.  ^ — _ 

b  Anteciiamber  or  vestibule. 

c  c        Ucccsscs. 

d  Door  to  the  principal  chamber.  ''v^ 

f  Circular  chamber. 

/  Column,  hewn  from  the  rock. 

g  Cuniculus,  or  passage  cut  in  the  rock,  now  cleared  out,  and  running  10  yards  further 

into  the  bill. 

h  Cuniculus,  leading  to  chamber  aa. 

i  Oritfinal  mouth  of  the  passaj.'es. 

I-  "I  Passages,  varying  in  size,  and  inclination,  but  only  lar?e  enough  to  admit  a  man  on  all 

I  V  fours      At  *  the  oriLrinal  ciuiiculns  m  seems  to  have  terminated,  or  to  have  turned 
ill  )  in  anotlier  direction  ;  the  rest  of  it  to  s  being  narrower  and  more  irregular. 

I I  Spurious  mouth  of  the  pas.sages.  opening  much  higher  in  the  wall  than  ;'. 
n  n  Cuniculi,  partly  unfinished,  partly  not  yet  excavated. 

p  Antechamber  to  the  group  of  square  tombs,  opening  to  the  west. 

9  ] 

I  Chambers,  more  or  less  rude,  and  all  inipainted,  with  rock-hewn  benches. 

f    I  In  5  are  the  mouths  of  the  cuniculi  j/i  and  re. 

«  J 

w  Antechamber  to 

V  A  tomb  found  filled  with  large  stones. 

na  Chamber,  now  encumbered  with  earth. 

66  66  Recesses  in  its  walls. 

The  shaded  part  represents  the  rock  in  which  the  tombs  and  passages  are  hewn. 

From  Gnmer. 


CniUSL— PoGGio  Gajella. 


[chap.  lv. 


(listiiiguislirtble.  The  benches  of  rock  are  not  left  in  unmeaning 
shapek'ssness  ;  they  are  hewn  into  the  form  of  couches,  with 
pillows  or  cushions  at  one  end,  and  the  front  moulded  into  seat 
and  legs  in  relief — so  many  patterns  of  Etruscan  furniture,  more 
durable  than  the  articles  themselves.  Man}*  of  these  couches  are 
double — made  for  a  pair  of  bodies  to  recline  side  bj'  side,  as  they 
are  generally  represented  in  the  banquets  painted  on  the  walls. 
They  prove  this  monument  to  be  of  a  period  when  bodies  were 
buried,  rather  than  burned. 

The  most  imjiortant  tombs  are  on  the  lower  and  second  tiers. 
()n  the  lower,  the  most  remarkable  is  one  that  opens  to  the 
south.  It  is  circular,  about  twenty-five  feet  in  diameter,  sup- 
poiled  in  the  centre  by  a  huge  column  hewn  from  the  rock,  ten 
or  eleven  feet  thick,  rudely  formed,  without  base  or  capital,  but 
in  the  place  of  the  latter  there  chances  to  occur  a  tlmi  stratum  of 

flints."     The  tomb  is  much  injured,  re- 
taining  no   traces    of  ornament,  except 
over   the   entrance,  where  is  somethmg 
like  a  head  in  relief  on  the  lintel.     Some 
beautifid  vases,*'  and  the   curious  stone 
sphinxes  of  the  Museo    Casuccini  were 
found  here.     These  sphinxes,  by  the  way, 
bear  a  remarkable  resemblance  to  those 
in  the  reliefs  from  the  Doric  temple  of 
Assos,  now  in  the  Louvre."     Nothing  is 
now  to  be  seen  but  fragments  of  urns  of 
cisjjo.     In  this  circular  tomb,  as  Avell  as 
in  the  group  of  square  chambers  on  the 
same  level,  are  mysterious  dark  passages  oj)ening  in  the  walls, 
and  exciting  the  astonishment  and  curiositv  of  the  stranger.     Of 
these  more  will  be  said  anon. 
There    are    four    other    gToups 

circular  tomb,  marked  e  in  the  Plan.  They 
■were  of  very  simple  character,  of  two  colours 
only,  red  and  lilack,  and  in  an  archaic 
style.     See  Bull.  Inst.  1841,  p.  IQ. 

"*  The  entrance  to  this  tomb  is  by  a  broad 
lia.ssjige,  or  rather  chamber,  with  large 
recesses  on  either  hand,  indicated  in  the 
Plan,  but  now  hardly  distinguishable. 

•^  For  an  account  of  these  vates,  some  of 
which  were  in  the  archaic  Etruscan  style, 
others  of  the  best  Greek  art,  see  Bull.  Inst. 
1840,  p.  128.— Feuerbach.  At  the  en- 
trance to  the   round    chamber  was  found 


ETKISCAN    SPHINX,    FROM    THE 
POGGIO    GAJELLA. 


of  tombs  in   this   lower  tier, 

part  of  a  winged  lion,  of  chpo,  in  the  most 
severely  archaic  style  ;  and  such,  it  is 
thought,  must  have  surrounded  this  tumulu.s 
in  great  numbers,  as  at  the  Cucumella,  of 
Vulci.     Bull.  Inst.  1841,  p.  9. 

"  The  strong  resemblance  that  the  reliefs 
from  the  .said  temjile  bear  to  works  of 
Etruscan  art,  is  noticed  by  Texicr.  Asie 
jMineure,  p.  204.  The  affinity  in  the 
figures  reclining  at  a  banquet,  and  in  the 
wild  beasts  devouring  their  Jirey,  is  striking. 
See  Mon.  Inst.  III.  tav.  34. 


CHAP.  Lv.]     IIIM-]  OF  TOMBS  IN  THE  POGGIO   GAJELLA.        353 

making  twenty-five  chambers  in  all,  besides  two  which  are 
unfinished. 

On  the  tier  above  this  are  several  tombs,  some  in  groups, 
others  single  ;  two  to  the  south  seem  to  have  been  circular.  The 
finest  group  is  one  of  five  square  chambers  opening  to  the  south- 
east, whose  walls  retain  traces  of  painting,  now  much  injured. 
Here  were  discovered  articles  of  great  beauty  and  value  : — the 
magnificent  vase  of  the  Judgment  of  Paris,  which  forms  the  gem 
of  the  Casuccini  collection,  found  in  one  hundred  and  twenty 
minute  i)ieces,  now  neatl}'  rejoined — another  vase  on  a  small 
bronze  stand  or  stool,  with  legs  like  those  sculptured  on  the 
couches  of  rock — a  cinerary  urn  in  the  form  of  a  male  statue, 
with  a  moveable  head  as  a  lid — a  few  small  articles  of  gold  and 
jewellery,  and  some  thin  IxDiiiiue  of  gold  attached  to  the  wall  of 
one  of  the  tombs,  as  thougli  originally  lining  it  throughout.  In 
two  of  these  chambers  open  small  passages,  like  those  in  the 
lower  tier.*^ 

On  the  third  and  highest  tier  are  three  groups  of  tombs, 
one  of  Avhich  is  supported  by  a  column  of  rock  ;  and  here  also 
were  found  articles  of  jewellery,  and  fragments  of  painted  vases.' 

I  was  grieved,  on  a  recent  visit  to  the  Poggio  Gajella,  to  find 
its  sepulchres  in  a  sad  state  of  neglect  and  ruin.  Most  of  the  outer 
tombs  are  now  encumbered  with  the  debris  of  their  fallen  roofs, 
and  lie  ojien  to  the  sky,  so  that  it  is  not  easy  to  recognise  them 
as  marked  in  the  Plan ;  all  traces  of  sculpture  and  painting  have 
been  effaced  from  the  walls,  and  a  little  colouring  and  carving  on 
the  ceilings  alone  remain  of  the  original  decorations. 

The  marvel  and  myster}'  of  this  curious  hive  of  tombs  are  the 
dark  passages,  which  have  given  rise  to  as  mvich  speculation  as 
such  obscurities  are  ever  wont  to  excite,  in  works  sepulchral  or 
literary,  ancient  or  modern,  of  Cheops  or  Coleridge.  The}'  are 
just  large  enough  for  a  man  to  creep  through  on  all  fours.  Here, 
traveller,  if  curious  and  enterprising,  "you  ma}'  thrust  your  arms 
up  to  the  elbows  in  adventures."  Enter  one  of  the  holes  in  the 
circular  tomb,  and  take  a  taper,  either  between  your  teeth,  or  in 

*  The  longest  of  these  passages  extenils  ferior  to  those  below  them,  Abeken  suggests 

to  35  braccia,   or  67  feet,  and  is  not  yet  that  they  may  have  been  intemled  for  the 

fully  cleared  out.     Another  passage,  which  slaves  or  dependents  of  the  family.      Ann. 

is  nearly  3  feet  square,  runs  some  distance  lust.  18-1],  p.  3"2.      ISut  the  meanest  tombs 

in  a  straight  line  into  the  rock,  and  then  are  at  the  base  of  the  inouud.     Some  have 

meets  a  third,   at  right  angles,   which   is  seen  in  these  a  fourth  tier,  though  tliey  can 

still  full  of  earth.  hardly  be  said  to  be  ou  a  different  level 

^  As  the  tombs  on  this  ui)per  tier  are  iu-  from  the  principal  groups. 

VOL.    II.  A    A 


354  CHIUSI.— PoGGio  Gajella.  [chap.  lv. 

your  fore-paw,  to  light  you  in  3'our  Xebucliadnezzar-like  progress. 
You  Mill  find  quite  a  labyrinth  in  the  heart  of  the  mound.  Here 
the  passage  makes  a  wide  sweep  or  circuit,  apparently  at  randoni 
— there  it  bends  back  on  itself,  and  forms  an  inner  sweep,  leading 
again  to  the  circular  chamber — now  it  terminates  abrupth-,  after 
a  longer  or  shorter  course, — and  now,  behold  !  it  brings  you  to 
another  tomb  in  a  distant  part  of  the  hill.  Observe,  too,  as  you 
creep  on  your  echoing  way,  that  the  passages  sometimes  rise, 
sometimes  sink,  and  rarely  preserve  the  same  level ;  and  that 
they  occasionally  swell  out  or  contract,  though  generally  regular 
and  of  imiform  dimensions.^ 

"What  can  these  ciDiicidl  mean"?  is  a  question  everyone  asks, 
but  none  can  satisfactorily  answer.  Had  they  been  beneath  a 
city,  we  should  find  some  analogy  between  them  and  those  often 
existing  on  Etruscan  sites,  not  forgetting  the  Capitol  and  Piock 
Tarpeian.  Had  they  been  beneath  some  temple,  or  oracular 
shrine,  we  might  see  in  them  the  secret  communications  b}- which 
the  machinery  of  jugglery  Avas  carried  forward  ;  but  in  tombs — 
among  the  mouldering  ashes  of  the  dead,  Avhat  purpose  could 
they  hnve  served  '?  Some  have  thought  them  part  of  a  regulai'ly 
l^lanned  labyrinth,  of  which  the  circular  tomb  was  the  centre  or 
nucleus,  formed  to  preserve  the  remains  and  treasure  there 
deposited  from  profanation  and  pillage.-  But  surel}-  they  would 
not  then  make  so  many  superfiuous  means  of  access  to  the 
chamber,  when  it  already  had  a  regular  entrance.  Moreover,  the 
smallness  of  the  passages — never  more  than  three  feet  in  height, 
and  two  in  width,  as  small,  in  truth,  as  could  well  be  made  by 
the  hand  of  man,  which  renders  it  difficult  to  thread  them  on  all 
fours ;  the  irregularitv  of  their  level ;  and  the  fact  that  one  has 
its  opening  just  beneath  the  ceiling,  destrojdng  the  beauty  of  the 
walls,  which  were  painted  with  dancing  figures,  and  that  anotlier 
actually  cuts  through  one  of  the  rock-hewn  couches — forbid  us  to 
sujjpose  they  were  designed  for  regular  communication,  or  were 
constructed  throughout  on  any  determined  system.  In  truth,  the 
latter  facts  would  seem  to  show  that  in  those  cases,  at  least,  they 
must  have  been  of  subsequent  construction  to  the  tombs.  Could 
the}' then  have  been  formed  either  b}- the  burrowings  of  some  animal, 
or  b}'  former  plunderers  of  the  tombs  in  their  search  for  treasures? 

'  For  plans  of  the  several  stones  in  this  i)lates  are  liy  M.   Gruncr,  the  well-known 

tumulus,  and  for  illustrations  of  the  articles  artist.     The  jilan  given  at  page  351  is  from 

found  in  the  toml)S,  see  the  beautiful  work  that  work, 
of  Dr.  Braun  cited  above.     The  plans  and  -  Feuerbach,  Bull.  Inst.  ISil,  p.  8. 


CHAP.  Lv.]     LABYEINTIIINE  PASSAGES  IX  THE  MOUND.         Soo 

To  tlie  first  it  ma}-  be  Siifel}'  objected  tliut  tbese  passages  are 
too  large,  and  in  general  too  regular.  In  one  of  the  tombs  in 
tlie  upper  tier,  however,  are  certain  passages  too  small  to  admit  a 
man,  and  therefore  in  all  probability  formed  b}"  some  animal.  1 
learned  from  the  peasants  who  dwell  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  that 
badgers  have  been  killed  here.  On  the  roofs  of  several  of  the 
cliambers,  which  I  was  told  had  been  found  choked  with  earth,  I 
observed  the  marks  of  that  animal's  claws.  But  it  is  impossible 
to  believe  that  these  labyrinthine  passages  have  been  made  by 
that  or  any  other  quadruped. 

It  is  more  eas}-  to  believe  that  they  have  been  formed  in  by- 
gone researches  for  buried  treasure.^  That  the  tombs  have  been 
opened  in  past  ages  is  evident  from  the  state  in  which  they  v;ere 
<liscovered,  from  the  broken  pottery  and  urns,  and  from  the 
pieces  of  a  vase  being  found  in  separate  chambers.*  .  Yet  in 
general  there  is  too  much  regularity  about  them,  for  the  work  of 
careless  excavators.  In  one  instance,  indeed,  in  the  second  tier, 
there  is  a  passage  of  very  careful  and  curious  formation,  Avhich 
gradualh'  diminishes  in  size  as  it  penetrates  the  hill,  not  regularly 
tapering,  but  in  successive  stages — magna  componcre  jyarvis — like 
the  tubes  of  an  open  telescope.  From  a  careful  examination  of 
the  cunicuU  in  this  hill,  all  of  which  I  penetrated,  I  cannot  but 
regard  them  as  generally  evincing  design  :  here  and  there  are 
traces  of  accidental  or  random  excavation,  such  as  the  openings 
into  the  tombs  which  spoil  their  SA'mmetry ;  but  these,  I  think, 
■did  not  form  part  of  the  original  construction  ;  they  must  have 
been  made  by  the  riliers  carr3'ing  on  the  passages  which  were  left 
as  cal-de-sacs.-' 

AVhat  the  design  of  this  labyrinth  may  have  been  I  cannot 
surmise.  Analogy  does  not  assist  us  here.  True,  the  Grotta 
<lella  Hegina  at  Toscanella  has  somewhat  kindred  passages, 
tliougii   to   a   much   smaller   extent  ;    but  these   are   involved   in 

^  This    was    Alicken's     more     diijcsted  aperture,  which  seems  of  more  recent  date, 

■oiiiniou   (ilittelital.    p.    244),  ami  tliat  of  In  the  circular  chamlier,   one    opening    is 

AIic;ili  also  (Mon.  Ine<l.  p.  355).  regular,  and  another  quite  irregular.      Yet 

■*  The  gold  and  jewellery  discovered  must  in    one   case   it    is  the   neatest   and  most 

have  been  overlooked  by  the  fii-st  riflers,  decidedly  artificial  passage  that  cuts  through 

-as  is  sometimes  the  case  — articles  of  great  the  bench.     May  not  the    passages   have 

value  being  found  occasionally  among  the  been  foi-med  before  certain  of  the  tombs  ? 

loose  earth.  ]\Iay  they  not    Imve   formed   part   of   tlie 

"  The  i)assage  which  connects   the  cii--  original  sepulclire  in  connection  with  th ; 

cular  chamber  with  the  group  to  the  west,  circular  chamber,  and  have  been  cut  into 

narrows  very  suildenly  as  it  approaches  the  by   the    subsc<|ucnt    excavation   of    other 

latter,    and    opens    in    it    in    an    irregular  chambers  ? 

A   A  2 


ooG  CHIUSI. — PoGGio  Gajella.  [chap.  lv. 

ecjual  obscurity ;  and  in  one  of  the  mounds  at  ^Nlonteroni  there 
were  found  ciDiicnli  of  this  description,  though  leading  not  from 
the  tomb,  but  from  the  grand  entrance-passage. '  There  seems 
to  be  little  analogy  with  the  system  of  vertical  shafts  and 
horizontal  ways  which  exist  in  the  same  tumulus  at  IMonteroni, 
in  the  necroi>oHs  of  Ferento,  and  in  the  Capitoline.  There  is 
more  apparently  with  the  subterranean  passages  beneath  Chiusi ; 
still  more  with  the  Buche  de'  Saracini  at  Yolterra ;  but  these  are 
of  most  doubtful  antiquity,  origin,  and  purpose,  and  probably 
not  sepulchral.  Nor  can  any  affinity  be  discovered  to  the 
catacombs  of  Rome,  Naples,  and  other  places  in  Italy  and  Sicily. 
Future  researches,  either  by  clearing  out  these  passages  Avhere 
they  are  now  blocked  up,  or  by  analogous  discoveries,  may 
possibly  throw  some  light  on  the  mystery. 

We  have  now  seen  the  existence  of  something  very  like  a 
labyrinth  in  the  heart  of  an  Etruscan  sepulchral  tumulus,  and 
have  thus  established,  by  analogy,  the  characteristic  truth  of 
^'arro's  description,  as  regards  the  substructions  of  Porsena's 
monument.  I  would,  however,  go  no  further.  I  would  not 
infer,  as  some  have  done,  that  this  tumulus  of  Poggio  Gajella 
may  be  the  very  sepulchre  of  that  hero.  The  circular,  instead  of 
the  square  basement,  and  the  comparatively  late  date  of  its 
decorations  and  contents  are  oi:)posed  to  such  a  conclusion.^  Yet 
its  vast  extent,  and  the  richness  of  its  furnitm'e,  mark  it  as  the 
burial'idace  of  some  of  the  ancient  princes  of  Clusium ;  and  its 
discovery,  after  so  many  ages  of  oblivion,  encourages  the  hope 
that  some  kindred  monument  may  yet  be  found,  which  may 
inihesitatingly  be  pronounced  the  original  of  Varro's  description.^ 

Be  this  hope  realised  or  not,  the  memory  of  Porsena  and  his 
vii'tues  is  beyond  decay.  It  rests  not  on  mausoleum  or  "  stav-y- 
l)ointing  pyramid,"  wliich  without  that  "monument  more  durable 
than  brass,"  are  frail  and  perishing  records  of  human  greatness; 
for  as  an  old  writer  quaintly  observes,  "  to  be  but  pyramidally 
extant  is  a  fallacy  in  duraticni." 

'  Abeken  (^littelitalien,  p.  242)  supposes  pository  of  ancient  tre«isures.     Fragments 

these   to   have   been   the  work  of   former  of  massive  masonry  also  seem  to  intlicate 

riflere.  the   basement   of    a   sepulchral   tumulus. 

*  This  is  also  Abeken's  opinion.     Jilt-  Here  is  a  most  promising  field  for  such 

telitalien,  p.  245.  researches.     But  no  excavations  have  been 

'  There  is  another  similar,   but   larger  yet  made  ;  and  are  not  likely  to  be  made 

hill,  not  far  oti,  called  Poggio  ili  San  Paolo,  as    long   as   the    mound    remains    in    the 

■which   tradition   has   marked   a.s  the   de-  hands  of  ts  present  proprietoi"S. 


CHAP.  J.V.]  LAES   POESENA  OE   POESENNA?  357 


APPENDIX    TO    CHAPTER    LV. 

Noi'K. — La  us  Porskxa. 

Lars  is  an  Ltriiscau  pnvnoiiicn,  siipiuiscd  to  1)0  si^iiifieaiit  of  rank  and 
tlignit}',  as  Ltruscan  jirinces  set'ni  always  to  have  Lad  this  name — Lars 
I'orseiia,  Lars  Tohunnius — a  title  of  honour,  cijuivak'nt  to  (lominus.  Miillor, 
I'jtrusk.  I.  J).  405.  The  fact  of  its  being  the  ai)pellation  also  of  the  household 
<lcities  of  the  Etruscans  favours  this  view.  Yet  the  frequent  occurrejice  of 
this  name,  or  its  A%irietics, ''  Lart,"  or  "  Lartli,"  in  sepulelu-al  inscriptions,  seems 
to  deprive  it  of  any  peculiar  dignity,  and  to  show  that  it  was  used  by  people  of 
various  classes  in  Etruscan  society.  Perhaps  the  distinctioii  drawn  by  the  gram- 
marians is  correct — ^that  Lar,  Laris,  Avas  significant  of  deity,  and  Lars,  Lartis, 
was  the  Etruscan  j/J?w/io»ie«.  The  Eomans,  however,  who  took  both  from  the 
Ktruscans,  sec'm  to  have  used  them  inditferentl3\  Midler,  L  p.  40H.  Thus 
we  iind  a  Lar  Herminius,  consul  in  the  year  30G.  Liv.  IIL  Go.  The  old 
patrician  [lens  Lartla  derived  its  name  from  Lars,  just  as  many  other  gentile 
names  were  formed  h\n\\  x>niinomina.  Lars  is  sui)posed  by  Lanzi  (IL  p.  203) 
to  signify  flicus,  but  it  is  more  generally  believed  to  be  equivalent  to 
"lord;"  and  it  is  even  maintahied  that  the  English  word  is  derived  from 
the  Etruscan.  Some  take  Lars  to  be  of  Pelasgic  origin,  from  the  analogy  of 
Larissa,  daughter  of  Pelasgus  ;  and  others  seek  its  source  in  the  Phamician. 
However  that  be,  it  can  at  least,  with  all  its  derivatives,  be  traced  with 
■certainty  to  the  Etruscan. 

Porsena  is  often  called  King  of  Clusium,  or  of  Ktruria.  Plin}-  (IL  .04), 
liowever,  seems  to  call  him  Iving  of  \'olsinii.  He  was  2^i"oper]y  chief 
Lucumo  of  Clusium,  and  "  Jving  of  Etruria  "  oidy  in  A'irtuc  of  eoiiiniandiiig 
the  forces  of  the  Confederation. 

The  name  is  spelt  both  Porsena  and  Porscnna,  but  in  any  case,  thinks 
Niebuhr  (L  jip.  oUO,  541),  the  penultimate  is  long,  from  tlie  analogy  of 
other  Etruscan  gentile  names — Vibenna,  Ergenna,  Perpemia,  Spnrinna  ;  and 
lie  proiKiUuces  ^lartial  guilty  of  a  "decided  blunder"  in  shortening  the 
jiinultimatc 

Urere  quam  potuit  contemto  Jlucius  igne, 
Haiic  spcctare  laauiim  Porsena  nou  potuit. 

Epig.  i.  22. 

Aretuia  niniis  ne  spcrnas  vasa,  inoneiuns, 
Lautus  erat  Tuscis  Porseua  lictiUbus. 

Eiag.  xiv.  98. 

Lord  ^laraulay,  in  liis  admirable  "  Lays  of  Ancient  Home  "  (p.  4-1),  justly 
<inestions  tiie  right  of  Niebuhr  or  any  other  modern  to  pronounce  on  tlie 
<|uantity  of  a  word  which  "  ^lartial  must  have  uttered  and  heard  uttered  a 
hundred  times  before  he  left  school  ;"  and  cites  Horace  (Epod.  XVL  4)  and 
Silius  Italicus  (VIII.  ;J91,  480)  in  corroboration  of  that  poet.  Compare  Sil. 
Ital.  X.  484.  The  following  prose-writers,  though  their  authority  cannot 
affect  th(!  (|uantity,  also  spell  it  "I'orsena." — Liv.  II.  '.I;  Cicero,  pro  Sext.  21  ; 
Fl<.r.  I.  1(1;  Val."  Max.  III.  2.  2;  Tacit.  Jlisf.  III.  72.  On  the  other  hand 
there  is  the  great  aulhoi-ity  of  N'irgi!  (.En.  \'11I.  Mi'>)  — 

Neo  noil  Tar(|uiiiium  ejectuiu  l\ii'.senua  julnjlat ; 


358  CHIUSI.— PoGGio  Gajell.v.  [chap.  lv. 

followed  I>y  Claudiaii  (in  Kutroi>.  I.  444) 

Qusesiit,  et  tantum  fluvio  Porsenna  leraotus — 

by  riiny  (II.  54;  XXXIV.  13,  39;  XXXVI.  10),  and  Seneca  (Epist.  GG  ; 
Benef.  V.  IG).  for  the  lengthening  of  the  iieniiltimate — Porsenna.  Plutarch 
(Publieola)  also  has  Uopa-tivas,  and  Dionysiiis  (V.  21)  JJopaivas.  Servius  (a^). 
JEn.  VIII.  G4G)  indeed  asserts  that  Virgil  added  an  n  for  the  sake  of  tlu' 
metre,  as  the  penultimate  is  short.  Now,  though  Lord  ^lacaulay  was  at 
liberty  to  adojit  either  mode,  I  believe  him  to  be  right  in  his  choice  of 
Porsena  ;  not  on  account  of  Servius'  assertion,  or  because  the  authority  of 
Horace,  ^Martial,  and  Silius  Italicus  outweighs  that  of  Virgil  and  Claudian,. 
but  because  it  is  mf>re  agreealjle  to  the  genius  of  the  Etruscan  language, 
which  gives  us  ''  Pursna,"  as  its  equivalent  (ut  sujyra,  p.  338)  ;  and  just 
so  the  '•  Ceicna  "  of  the  Etruscans  was  wiitten  Ciecina  or  Ca3cinna  by  the 
Ponians. 


CHAPTER    LVr. 

CETONA   AND    SAETEANO. 

^lolta  tenent  antujua,  scpolta,  vetusta. 

Ennius. 

—  gia  fiu'o 
luclitij  ed  or  n'e  quasi  il  nome  oseui-o. 

Ariosto. 

The  hills  to  the  west  and  north- west  of  Chmsi  are  rich  in 
Etruscan  remains.  The  several  towns  of  Cetona,  Sarteano, 
Chianciano  and  Montepulciano  are  supposed,  from  the  positions 
the}'  occup}',  and  the  mines  of  ancient  wealth  arovmd  them,  not 
from  an}'  extant  remains  of  fortifications,  to  indicate  the  sites  of 
so  many  Etruscan  cities.  It  is  certain  at  least  that  in  their 
environs  are  ancient  cemeteries  3'ielding  the  most  archaic  relics 
of  Etruscan  times.  He  who  visits  Chiusi  should  not  omit  to 
extend  his  tour  to  these  towns,  for  they  are  all  within  a  trifling 
distance  of  that  city,  and  of  each  other ;  And  should  he  feel  little 
interest  in  their  antiquities,  he  cannot  fail  to  be  delighted  with 
the  glorious  scenery  around  them.  He  may  make  the  tour  of 
the  whole  in  a  day,  though  the  roads  in  parts  stand  much  in 
need  of  repair. 

Cetona  is  only  five  or  six  miles  from  Chiusi  to  the  south-west 
— a  clean  little  town,  and  a  picturesque,  on  an  olive-clad  height, 
with  a  ruined  castle  of  feudal  times  towering  above  it.  It  has 
a  decent  inn  in  the  Piazza,  the  "  Locanda  del  Leone,"  kept  by 
Giovanni  and  Pasquale  Davide. 

The  Etruscan  antiquities  now  visible  at  Cetona  are  all  in  the 
possession  of  the  Terrosi  family.  The  collection  was  originally 
made  by  the  late  Cavaliere  Giambattista  Terrosi,  who  drew  most 
of  his  treasures  from  a  spot  called  Le  Cardetelle,  in  the  valley  of 
the  Astrone,  half  way  between  Chiusi  and  Cetona.  Since  his 
death  no  steps  were  taken  for  many  years  to  increase  the  collec- 
tion, but  his  son,  Signor  Giulio,  has  recently  made  some  most 
valuable  additions  to  it. 


3G0  CETOXA.  [chap.  lvi. 

The  collection  is  not  large,  but  very  select.  Here  are  some 
beautiful  specimens  of  the  black  pottery  of  this  district — the  tall 
cock-crested  jars, /oco/a/v",  and  other  articles  in  the  old  rigid  style 
of  Clusian  art ;  among  Avliich  a  fine  goblet  of  the  rare  form  called 
carcJicsioii,  with  a  band  of  figures  in  relief,  is  conspicuous.  Tliere 
are  painted  vases  also,  chietly  in  the  archaic  st3'le,  with  black 
figures  on  a  red  ground. 

In  this  collection  are  two  cinerary  urns  of  much  interest.  One, 
on  which  a  fennile  figure,  patera  in  liand,  rt'cHnes  on  a  cushion 
that  was  once  colovu'ed  blue,  bears  in  the  relief  below  an  armed 
warrior,  seized  b}-  two  figures  in  human  shape,  but  with  the  heads 
of  a  pig  and  of  a  ram.  A  female  figure  stands  behind  him,  and 
brandislies  a  serpent  over  his  head,  while  another  woman,  whose 
attributes  mark  her  also  as  a  Fury,  stands  at  the  opposite  end  of 
the  scene.  A  second  warrior  is  sinking  to  the  ground  in  death. 
We  ma}'  recognise  in  this  scene  the  attempted  enchantment 
of  Ulysses  b}-  Circe, — a  rare  subject  on  Etruscan  urns.  The 
drapery  on  the  figures  bears  traces  of  colour.^ 

The  other  urn  is  one  of  the  best  preserved  Etruscan  monuments 
of  this  character  I  remember  to  have  seen.  The  relief  shows  a 
female  figure  without  Avings,  but  with  a  liammer  and  the  other 
usual  attributes  of  a  demon,  sitting  on  an  altar,  with  her  arm 
about  a  naked  youth.  •  On  each  side  a  man,  with  a  Phrygian  cap 
and  a  chlamys  on  his  shoulders,  threatens  wdth  drawn  bow 
the  life  of  the  youth.  A  child  sits  weeping  at  the  foot  of 
the  altar,  and  a  woman  in  an  attitude  of  grief,  with  hands 
clasped  on  her  lap,  sits  on  the  other  side  of  the  demon.  It  is 
difiicult  to  explain  this  scene.  It  may  represent  the  slaughter 
of  Penelope's  suitors — the  chaste  queen  being  portrayed  in  the 
sitting  and  sorrowing  female,  if  this  be  not  Eurycleia,  her  nurse ; 
the  two  archers  being  Ulysses  and  Telemachus.^ 

The  interest  of  this  urn  lies  not  so  much  in  the  subject  of  the 
relief,  as  in  its  high  state  of  preservation,  and  its  peculiar  adorn- 
ments. The  necklace,  chaplet,  zone,  and  anklets  of  the  Lasa 
are  gilt ;  so  also  the  chaplet  of  the  youth,  and  the  Phrygian  caps 

^  Illustrations  of  the  urn  are  given  in  iliH'er  more  or  less  from  those   which  are 

Ann.   Inst.   1842,  tav.  clAgg.  D.  ;  and  liy  received.     He  elsewhere  suggest.s  that  tlie 

Micali,  !Mon.   Incd.  tav.  49.     For  notices,  slie-demon  on  the  altar  may  be  intended 

see  Ann.  Inst.  1842,  p.  47  (Braun)  ;  Bull.  for  Proserpine,  but  who  the  youth  under 

Inst.  1842,  I).  18  ;  1843,  p.  61  (Uraun).  her  jirotecting  arm  may  be,  and  what  the 

-  This  is  Braun's  opinion  (Ann.    Inst.  child  weeping  at  her  feet  may  mean,  lie  is 

loc.  cit.).     He  acknowledges  that  Telema-  at  a  loss  to  conjecture.     This  urn  is  illiis- 

chus  is  not  so  represented  by  Homer,  but  trated  by  Micali,  Mon.  Incd.  tav.  41) ;  Ann. 

Etniscan  versions  of  Greek  myths  generally  lust.  1842,  tav.  d'Agg.  E. 


<:i.Ai'.  Lvi.]     ETRUSCAN  COLLECTION  OF  SIGNOR  TERROSI.     3G1 

of  the  warriors;  jukI  the  (Irapery  of  the  wliole  is  coloured  a  ricii 
purple.  The  recumbent  figure  on  the  lid  is  that  of  an  elderly 
man  witli  a  fine  head,  and  his  chaplet  of  oak-leaves,  his  long  and 
thick  torque,  his  signet-ring,  and  the  vase  in  his  hand,  are  all 
gilt;  while  the  cushion  on  which  he  reclhies  and  tlie  drai)ery  on 
his  person  are  purple.  These  colours  were  perfectly  fresh  when 
the  urn  was  discovered,  and  Avere  set  out  by  the  pure  white 
alabaster  of  the  monument,  which  has  now  lost  somewhat  of  its 
brilliancy.  The  efi'ect  of  the  Avhole  is  still  very  rich  ;  and  as  the 
sculpture  is  not  of  a  high  order,  the  colour  does  not  impair  the 
ideality.  It  is  perhaps  the  best  specimen  of  polychromy,  applied 
to  sculpture,  that  is  to  be  seen  in  Etruria. 

l^ut  the  gem  of  this  collection  is  an  ivory  cuj),  covered  with 
archaic  and  most  interesting  reliefs.  It  was  found  in  a  tomb 
within  an  isolated  mound  in  the  Podere  Pania,  about  three  miles 
south  of  Chiusi.  The  tomb  was  hollowed  in  the  rock  as  usual, 
but  instead  of  a  pillar  or  column  in  the  midst,  it  had  a  short  wall 
left  in  the  rock,  which  divided  it  into  two  chambers,  leaving  a 
passage  between  them  at  the  inner  end.  In  one  chamber  was  a 
rock-liewn  bench,  yet  on  this  lay  no  sarcophagus  or  urn,  but  on 
tlie  gromid  between  it  and  the  partition  wall  were  the  remains  of 
a  body,  stretched  on  bronze  plates,  fastened  together  by  nails  in 
the  earliest  style  (jf  metal  work,  adorned  with  figures  and  flowers 
in  relief,  and  resting  on  a  grating  of  iron  rods.  This  was  sup- 
posed by  the  discoverers  of  the  tomb  to  be  a  pavement  of  bronze,'' 
and  it  has  also  been  cited  as  a  proof  that  the  ancients  sometimes 
lined  the  walls  of  their  tombs  with  metal  plates;'  but  to  me  it 
appears  far  more  probable  that  it  was  the  bier  of  bronze  on  which 
the  corpse  was  conveyed  to  the  sepulchre,  and  on  which  it  was 
there  left.  It  was  found  in  fragments  and  had  doubtless  been 
crushed  by  the  i)revious  riflers  of  the  tomb,  who  had  entered 
through  a  hole  in  the  roof.  From  the  description  we  have  of  it 
it  was  apparently  very  similar  to  the  bronze  bier  in  the  Ilegulini- 
Galassi  tomb,  at  Cervetri.''  In  the  same  tomb  in  the  Pania 
Podere  were  found  a  very  large  pot  or  olla  of  bronze,  30  inches 

•*  They  may  liave  reineiiibered  the  X"*^""-  struction  to  this,   and  lined  wltii    bronze 

;3aTes  Si  of  Ilouicr,  II.  I.  42G  ;  xiv.  173  ;  phites  to  the  height  of  10  inches  from  the 

OA.  xiii.  4.  ground,    in  the  chamber  wliich  coutiiined 

*  liidl.  Inst.  1S74,  p.  20.").     llclbig  cites  the  remains  of  the  deceased.    In  the  Poggio 

the   Canouico  Urogi,   as  autliority  for  the  Gajella  thin  lamime  of   gold  were    found 

fact,  that  in  his  excavations  in  1873  near  adliering  to  the  walls  of  one  of  the  tombs. 

Fonte    llotella,    in   the    neighbourhood    of  Vide  supra,  p.  353. 

Chiusi,  he  found  a  tomb  similar  in  con-  *  See  Vol.  I.  p.  207.     The  bier  in  the 


362  CETOXA.  [chap.  lvi. 

in  diameter,  and  27  in  height,  also  of  phites  hammered  and 
fastened  together  ^Yith  nails,  in  the  earliest  style  of  metal-work, 
called  sphiirdaton,  and  -within  it,  another  pot  of  different  form 
but  of  similar  construction,  which  contained  human  ashes, 
together  with  many  leaves  of  gold,  as  if  a  wreath  of  that  metal 
had  been  deposited  on  the  remains.  In  the  outer  vase  was  found 
a  beautiful //6/f/(f  of  pale  gold,  adorned  with  filigree  Avork. 

The  ivory  cup  was  found  upset  in  the  middle  of  the  tomb.  It 
is  of  cylindrical  form,  being  cut  from  that  portion  of  a  tusk  next 
the  root,  where  the  tusk  is  thickest  and  hollow.  It  is  nearly 
8  inches  in  height,  and  from  6  to  Gi  in  diameter,  and  its  outer 
surface  is  carved  with  reliefs  of  figures  and  other  ornaments  in 
alternate  bands,  foiu"  of  the  former  and  five  of  the  latter.  The 
style  is  very  archaic  and  oriental,  and  the  figures  closely  resemble 
those  stamped  on  the  very  early  vases  of  biicchero.  The  cup  has 
lost  its  bottom,  and  is  very  imperfect,  portions  of  it  being  broken 
or  having  rotted  away,  and  the  outer  crust,  on  which  the  rehefs 
are  carved,  having  peeled  off  in  parts. 

The  upper  band  is  comjiosed  of  Assyrian  lotus-flowers,  upright 
and  inverted  alternatelv.  In  the  second  band  is  a  vessel,  witli 
a  man  at  the  helm,  the  sail  wrapped  round  the  yard,  and  au 
amphora  on  each  side  of  the  mast.  Two  men  raising  tlieir  arms 
with  lively  gesticulations  are  approaching  the  ship,  followed  by  a 
big  ram,  canying  a  man  who  clings  to  him  beneath  his  belly. 
Here  occurs  a  gap ;  and  then  follows  another  ram,  also  cany- 
ing a  man  in  the  same  position.  This  scene  clearly  represents 
Ulysses  and  liis  companions  escaping  from  the  cave  of  Poly- 
phemus, and  is  of  great  interest,  for  it  is  very  rare  to  find  events 
from  the  Greek  heroic  cycle  illustrated  on  Etruscan  monuments 
of  so  archaic  a  period.  The  third  band  contains  floral  ornaments. 
In  the  fourth  you  see  a  htga  Avith  its  driver,  and  a  warrior  in  the 
act  of  mounting  the  car ;  followed  by  three  more  warriors,  all 
with  Corinthian  helmets,  spears,  and  Argolic  bucklers,  and  by 
a  youth  on  horseback.  Tlien,  after  a  gap,  come  four  women,  all 
in  talaric  cldtoncs,  and  with  their  hair  hanging  in  long  plaits 
almost  to  their  ankles,  and  ending  in  a  tassel ;  each  with  both 
hands  on  her  bosom.  An  armed  man  kneels  before  them  in  the 
attitude  of  a  suppliant.  After  another  gap,  is  a  siihido,  playing 
his  pipes,  as  he  turns  to  some  warriors  behir.d  liim.     The  fifth 

Cervetri  tomb  was  formed  of  strips  of  bronxe  nailed  together,  and  supported  by  iron-rods 
crossed  in  a  lattice-work.  This  of  Chiusi  crossing  each  other  at  riglit  angles.  Both 
is  said  to  have  been  foimed  of  long  plates       were  adorned  in  a  siiuilar  manner. 


CHAP.  Lvi.]  WONDERFUL    CUP    OF    IVORY.  36a 

l)ii]i(l  shows  onmnicnts  like  pcU(C,  or  Aina/oniau  sliields.  The 
sixth  is  eunii)()se(l  of  liuures,  some  liuiuuii,  some  mythical — a 
man  on  liorsehack,  a  female  centaur,  draped  to  her  heels — the 
barrel  and  hhid-(juarters  of  a  horse  being  attached  to  the  body  of 
a  woman — a  bull  \vitli  a  single  horn,  a  hippogriff,  and  several 
lions.  The  t>ighth  band  had  also  i'anciful  animals ;  and  the 
seveiilh  and  ninth  showed  ticu'al  ornaments.^ 

Another  relic  of  classical  anti(iuity  at  Cetona  is  a  statue  of 
marble,  of  life-size,  discovered  among  some  llonian  ruins  near 
the  town.  It  represents  a  philosopher  or  poet,  sitting,  half 
draped,  in  an  attitude  of  contemplation,  and  is  evidentl}'  of 
lioman  times."     It  is  in  the  possession  of  Signor  Gigli. 

If  Cetona  be  an  ancient  site,  we  have  no  clue  to  its  original 
name ;  the  earliest  record  we  have  of  it  being  in  the  thirteenth 
centur}'  of  our  era." 

From  Cetona  to  Sarteano  there  are  but  four  miles,  and  the 
road  is  full  of  beauty.  It  ascends  a  steep  and  lofty  height 
covered  with  wood  broken  by  boulders  of  travertine,  and  from 
the  summit  connnands  a  magnificent  view  over  the  vale  of  the 
Chiana — Cetona  nestling  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain  which  bears 
its  name,  a  mighty  mass  of  hanging  woods,  in  winter  all  robed  in 
snow  ° — La  Pieve  with  its  twin  towers,  like  horns  bristling  from 
the  brow  of  the  long  dark  hills  which  stretch  up  from  the  south 
—  Chiusi,  nearer  the  eye,  on  a  rival  yet  lower  height — the  inter- 
vening valley,  with  its  grey  and  brown  carpet  of  olive  and  oak 
woods — the  lakes  gleaming  out  bluely  in  the  distance — and  the 
snowy  ApenniiU'S  billowing  along  the  horizon. 

Sarteano  stands  on  the  brow  of  an  elevated  plateau,  over- 
hanging the  valley  of  the  Chiana.  It  lies  five  miles  from  Chiusi 
to  the  west,  and  the  road  is  excellent.  About  half-way  is  a  hill, 
called  Poggio  Montolo,  where  painted  tombs  are  said  to  have 
been  discovered.    Sarteano  is  a  place  of  some  importance,  fully  as 

•'  For  a  furtlier  description  of  tliis  cup,  In    tiiis  inountain,    says   Repetti,   we   find 

and  of  tlie  tomb  in  wliicli  it  was  fouml,  verified  tlie  fable  of  Janus,  wlio  looks  with 

see  Bull.  In.st.  1874,  pp.  20:5-210,  Ilelljig.  one  face  at  the  regions  of  Vulcan,  with  the 

<■  Hull.  Inst.  1843,  p.  l.')3.  other  at  the  realm  of  Neptune  ;  for  tliough 

"  Kepetti,  I.  p.  678.     For  notices  of  the  it  rises  in  the  midst  of  liills  covered  with 

earlier  excavations  on   thi.s  .site  see  IJull.  marine  substances,  it  gives  vent  on  every 

Inst.  18:i'.t,  \>.  .jO  ;  1842,  p.  17.     At  Palaz-  side  to  sulphureous  vapours  and  hot.springs, 

zone,    si.x   miles    soutii    of    Cetona,    many  which  have  completely  incrustcd  its  b:x.se  ; 

Etruscan  relics  have  iicen  disc.ivered.  while   at  a  few  miles'  disfcmce,    rise  the 

"•'  Jlontc  Cetona  rises   1957  hrttccin,   or  lava-cone  of  Kadicofani  and  the  trachite  of 

about  37.j1  feet,  above  the  level  of  the  .sea.  Montamiata.     I.  p.  083. 


3G4  SAETEAXO.  [chap.  lvi. 

large  as  Cliiusi,  surrounded  by  ■walls  of  the  middle  ages.  The 
inn,  "  Locanda  d'ltalia,"  kept  by  Lucrezia  Yannetti,  is  tolerable 
for  a  town  so  little  frequented  by  foreign  travellers  ;  yet  this 
range  of  hills  is  much  resorted  to  b}^  the  Tuscans  in  the  hot 
season,  both  as  a  retreat  from  the  burning  heat  of  the  low 
grounds,  and  for  the  sake  of  its  mineral  waters. 

At  Sarteano  there  are  two  foci  of  interest  to  the  antiquary — 
the  collections  of  the  Cavaliere  Bargagli  and  of  Signor  Fanello 
Fanelli. 

The  former  of  these  gentlemen  has  some  choice  urns,  found 
on  his  estate  at  a  spot  called  Le  Tombe,  near  the  banks  of  the 
Astrone. 

One  represents  in  its  relief  Hipjiolytus  attacked  b}'  the  sea- 
bull  which  Neptune  sent  against  him,  and  Avhich  caused  his 
horses  to  take  fright,  so  that  they  dashed  him  and  his  chariot  to 
jiieces — 

littore  currum 
Et  jnvenem  monstris  pavidi  effudere  marinis. 

A  she-demon  or  Fury,  holding  a  torch,  bestrides  the  fjillen 
youth,  and  a  warrior  seems  about  to  attack  her,  sword  in  hand. 
This  urn  is  poh'chrome — the  flesh  of  the  men,  the  horses,  the 
flame  of  the  torch,  are  all  red ;  the  Fury's  hair  is  brown  ;  the 
drapery,  the  shield,  and  other  parts  of  the  relief  bear  traces  of 
yellow. 

There  is  a  very  good  urn  with  the  trite  subject  of  Eteocles  ami 
Polyneices.  The  moment,  as  usual,  is  chosen  when  the  brothers 
are  giving  each  other  the  death-wound.  A  Fury  rushes  between 
them,  not  to  separate  them,  but  to  indicate  her  triumph  over 
both ;  she  sets  her  foot  on  an  altar  in  the  midst,  and  extinguishes 
her  torch.  She  has  blue  wings,  with  a  large  eye  in  each,  small 
wings  also  on  her  l)rows,  a  serpent  tied  I'ound  her  neck,  and  red 
buskins.  The  armour  and  weapons  also  of  the  warriors  are 
painted.  Beside  the  usual  recumbent  figure  on  the  lid,  which 
is  here  a  man  Avearing  a  long  j'ellow  torque,  this  urn  has  a  little 
child  also,  caressing  its  father. 

Another  relief  represents  Orestes  in  Tauris  ;  and  indicates  the 
discovery  by  Iphigeneia,  that  the  stranger  she  is  abcnit  to  sacrifice 
to  Artemis,  is  her  own  brother.  Orestes,  naked,  sits  weeping  on 
the  altar;  she,  also  naked,  stands  leaning  on  his  shoulder  in 
deep  dejection,  Py lades  is  being  bound  by  an  armed  man,  to  be 
subjected  to  the  same  bloody  rite ;  and  two  Lasas,  one  at  each 
end,  fill  up  the  scene.     The  execution  of  this  relief  is  excellent. 


CHAP.  Lvi.]  THE    BAllGAGLI    COLLECTION.  3(Ja 

Another  scene,  wliere  two  young  warriors  are  slaying  an  old 
man  and  seizing  a  nuxiden,  may  re})resent  the  death  of  Friam 
and  rape  ol"  Cassandra.  A  female  demon,  with  forehand  buskins, 
is  in  at  the  di  atli. 

These  urns,  with  others,  twent^'-four  in  all,  were  found  in  one 
tomb,  and  the  inscriptions  sliow  them  to  belong  to  the  family  of 
*'  CuMiiin:."  ^  The  dt)or  of  tlie  tomb  was  closed  b}'  a  large  tile, 
bearing  the  same  name ;  it  is  preserved  in  this  collection.  The 
discovery  of  a  sepulchre  of  this  family  in  the  neighbourhood  has. 
led  some  to  regard  Sarteano  as  the  site  of  the  ancient  Camars, 
but  on  no  valid  ground,  for  Cervetri  might  with  as  nmeh  reason  be 
supposed  the  site  of  Tan^uinii,  because  the  tomb  of  the  Tarquins 
is  in  its  necroi)olis.  Yet  the  very  archaic  character  of  the 
potter}'  found  in  the  tombs  of  Sarteano  ])roves  the  existence  of 
Etruscan  habitation  here  at  a  remote  period.- 

In  the  Casa  Bargagli  you  see  the  fruit  of  some  recent  excava- 
tions in  the  Podere  Bacciacciano,  about  one  mile  to  the  north, 
which  prove  the  existence  of  a  necropolis  of  very  early  date, 
resembling  that  of  the  Poggio  lienzo,  at  Chiusi.  The  tombs 
were  sometimes  in  the  form  of  Avells,  lined  with  small  stones, 
without  cement,  more  often  mere  holes  in  the  earth,  containing  a 
large  pot,  or  ossuarv,  wrought  with  the  hand,  in  which  were 
deposited  the  ashes  and  bones  of  the  dead.  As  at  Poggio  Penzo,. 
one  of  the  two  handles  of  the  pot  was  always  found  broken- 
While  the  cinerary  pots  from  that  necropolis  are  often  decorated 
with  geometrical  patterns,  these  of  Sarteano  are  in  general  per- 
fectly plain,  and  therefore  may  be  regarded  as  of  higher  antiquity. 
In  shape  these  pots  resemble  the  cinerary  vases  found  at  ^llla- 
nova,  the  earliest  cemetery  of  Felsina,  or  ancient  Bologna.. 
Like  them  also  they  were  generally  covered  with  a  jKitera  or  cup 
of  terra-cotta,  inverted,  one  of  whose  handles  was  invariably 
broken.  The  position  of  the  pots  was  generally  marked  by 
circular  disks  of  sandstone,  from  8  to  28  inches  in  diameter,  with- 
the  upper  surface  slightly  conical,  which  lay  a  foot  or  more  above 
the  pot.  Sometimes  there  was  more  than  one  of  these  disks  over 
a  cinerary  vase.  The  little  cups  and  pots  found  grouped  around 
the  central  one,  are  all  of  the  same  primitive  character,  Avith  the 
exception  of  three  fragments  which  show  reddish  brown  stripes 

'  The  name  is  found  also  with  the  in-  read  Camar.s.    Sagy;io,  II.  pj'- 376,  399,  434. 

rtoxionsof  Ciunovesa,  Cunienisa,  Cuiueninia.  '  For  notices  of  the  urns  in  the  i\Iuseum 

Lanzi  gives  other   Ktru.scan  scpulcliral  in-  liargagli,  .see  Bull.  Inst.  1S3(),  pp.  30 — 32 

scriptions    witli    the    names  of    Camarina,  (Sozzi)  ;  1843,  i)p.  151-2  (liraun). 
Camurina,  and  Cauuus,  whieh  hist  he  would 


366  SAETEAXO.  [chap.  lvi. 

on  a  pale  vellow  grouiul.''  In  the  oiiierarv  pots,  mixed  with  the 
bones  and  ashes,  were  found  various  objects  in  bron/.e — -tibalie, 
bracelets,  hair-pins,  chains,  buttons,  and  crescent-shaped  knives, 
supposed  to  have  been  razors.  There  were  also  found  knives  of 
iron,  lance-heads,  and  tihuUe  of  the  same  metal ;  together  with 
spindles  of  terra- cotta ;  beads  of  coloui-ed  glass,  and  of  amber, 
which  latter  soon  fell  to  dust  on  exposure  to  the  atmosphere.* 

Tliere  was  formerly  a  collection  of  vases  in  the  possession  of 
Dr.  Borselli,  some  painted,  but  the  greater  part  of  them  of  the 
black  ware  of  this  district ;  but  since  liis  death  they  have  been 
sold.^ 

The  collection  of  Signor  Lungliini  has  also  been  dispersed 
since  his  death.  It  contained  many  vases,  both  Greek  and 
Etruscan.  The  most  remarlcable  were  two  of  those  tall  and  ver}' 
rare  vases,  sometimes  called  hahni,  but  more  correctly  Ichcics,  about 
three  feet  high,  and  composed  of  a  bowl-shaped  vase,  resting  on 
a  stand.  '\Vhetlier  for  containing  the  ashes  of  the  dead,  or  for 
perfumes  I  cannot  tell ;  but  the  lid  was  pierced  for  the  escape  of 
the  effluvium.  One  of  these  vases  was  painted  with  nmnerous 
figures  of  men  and  animals  in  separate  bands;  the  other  was  of 
black  ware  with  decorations  in  relief.    'Both  were  of  very  early  date. 

But  the  most  singular  article  in  this  collection  was  an  urn  of 
stone  in  the  form  of  a  little  temple  or  small  dog-kennel,  with  a 
liif'h- pit  died  roof.  Each  side  displayed  a  scene  in  low  flat  relief. 
First  was  a  death-bed — the  corpse  covered  with  the  shroud — 
children  on  their  knees  in  attitudes  of  grief — wailing-women 
tearino'  their  hair — suliulojies  drowning  their  cries  witli  the 
double-pipes.  On  the  opposite  side  was  a  race  of  trigce,  or 
three-horse  chariots  ;  and  at  the  ends  were  banqueting-scenes — 
the  feasting  and  sports  attending  the  funeral.  On  the  ridge  of 
the  roof  at  each  end  Avas  a  lion  couchant — the  symbolic  guardians 
of  the  ashes.  The  urn  rested  on  the  bodies  of  two  bulls  with 
human,  or  rather  fauns'  heads,  representing  either  river-gods,  or, 
more  probably,  Bacchus  Hebon, — ^ 

Samibovemqne  vinim,  semivirinnque  bovem. 

2  Dr.    Helbi'^'   declares  that  these  frag-  ^  Tliere  were  formerly  in  this  collection 

ments  hear  a  resemhlance  to  the  pottery  souie    beautiful   va.ses    with    mythological 

fouml  in  the  Acropolis  of  Athens,  under  subjects  ;    also  a  seat  or  curule   chair   of 

the  bastion  of  Cimon,  to  that  of  Cyprus,  pottery,  with  bas-reliefs,  much  resembling 

iind  also  to  that  found  under  the  pei^erino  of  the  beautiful  marble  throne  of  the  Palazzo 

theAlban  Lake.     Bull.  Inst.  1.S75,  p.  234.  Coi-sini  at  Rome.   Fornoticesof  the  JJorselli 

■•  See  a  letter  from  Signor  P.  Bargagli  to  collection,  ius  it  was,  .see  Dull.  Inst.  1840, 

Count    Gozzadiui,    in    his   Scavi    Arnoakli  pp.  14S,  149,  15:5. 

presso  Bolo"na,  p.  20.  "  The.se  heads  are  like  that  shown  in  tlie 


CHAP,  i.vi.]  THE    FANELLI    COLLECTIOX.  367 

Tills  iHoininu'iit  is  an  cxccllout  specimen  of  tlie  vorv  Oiirly  and 
severel}'  archaic  style  of  Etruscan  sculptured 

Sijiiior  Fanello  Fanelli  is  lord  of  the  ruined  castle,  which 
crowns  the  steep  cliff  overhanging  the  town  of  Sarteano.  It  was 
presented  to  his  ancestors  some  centuries  since  h}'  one  of  the 
Medici,  for  services  rendered  to  the  Tuscan  State.  Here  he 
dwells,  not  in  the  crumhling  and  picturesque  keep,  but  in  a 
house  he  has  recentl}^  built  within  the  walls  on  the  only  spot  not 
covered  by  the  grove  of  ilex,  which  now^  fills  the  castle-court. 
He  possesses  some  good  Etruscan  bronzes,  mirrors,  j^'^tene  with 
figured  handles,  manj-  idols  of  various  sizes  and  merit,  pottery  of 
huccliero,  a  few  painted  vases,  coins,  etc.  But  he  is  particularly 
rich  in  Etruscan  scarahei,  some  of  them  very  choice ;  and  he  has 
also  some  good  intaglios. 

So  rich  is  the  soil  around  Sarteano  in  Etruscan  treasures,  that 
in  the  ordinary  processes  of  agriculture  articles  are  often  brought 
to  light  and  the  proprietors  of  land  come  into  the  possession  of 
antiquities  without  the  trouble  of  research.  This  necropolis  is 
hardly  less  abundant  in  bronzes  than  in  pottery.  The  tombs  are 
all  hollowed  in  the  rock,  very  simple,  without  decorations,  and 
have  generally  but  a  single  chamber,  which,  when  of  great  size, 
is  supported  by  a  rock-hewn  pillar  in  the  midst.  Xot  one 
remains  open  for  inspection. 

Much  of  this  ancient  roha  has  been  disinterred  near  the 
INIadonna  della  Eea,  about  a  mile  to  the  west  of  Sarteano ;  some 
.also  on  ]Monte  Salaja,  in  the  same  direction ;  but  the  most 
iirchaic  pottery  is  found  still  further,  towards  Castigiioncel  del 
Trinoro,  a  wall-girt  village,  with  the  ominous  alias  of  de'  Ladri, 
or  the  Robber-hold,  three  miles  from  Sarteano,  tov-'ards  Radico- 
fani.  Much  has  also  been  found  at  Castelluccio,  four  miles 
distant,  on  a  mountain  ridge  on  the  western  slope  of  Monte 
Cetona ;  and  excavations  made  near  a  church  called  Spmeta, 
below  the  same  mountain,  six  miles  from  Sarteano,  have  3'ielded 
much  early  huccharo,  and  urns  of  terra-cotta,  but  no  painted  vases. 

■wood-cut  at  p.  401  of  Vol.    I.     Tins  figvirc  that  city,  or  Aclielous,  or  some  other  river- 
is  found  on  many  bronze  coins  of  Neaiiolis  god.     Ann.  Inst.  1841,  p.  133. 
oi  late  date,  and  is  supposed  to  represent  '   For  a  notice  of  tliis  urn,  see  Bull.  Inst, 
either    Bacchus    Hebon,    the    divinity    of  lS4f),  p.  1G2. 
Campania,  or  the  Scbethus,  a  rivulet  near 


CHAPTER    LVIL 

CIIIANCIANO    AND    MONTEPULCIAXO. 
Eeliquias  veterumque  vides  monumenta  vironiin. 

YlKGIL. 

FRo:\r  Savteano  to  Chianciano  it  is  a  drive  of  seven  miles 
amid  glorious  scenery.  This  range  of  heights,  indeed  the  whole 
district  of  Chiusi,  is  prodigal  in  charms — an  earthly  jiaradise. 
Tliere  are  so  many  elements  of  heauty,  that  those  which  are 
wanting  are  not  missed.  Here  are  hill  and  vale,  rock  and  Avood, 
towns  and  castles  on  picturesque  heights,  broad  islet-studded 
lakes,  and  ranges  of  Alpine  snow  and  sublimity;  and  if  the  ocean 
be  wanting,  it  has  no  unapt  substitute  in  the  vast  vale  or  plain 
of  Chiana — a  sea  of  fertility  and  luxuriance;  while  all  is  warmed 
and  enriched  by  the  glowing  sun  of  Italy,  and  canopied  by  a 
vault  of  that  heavenl}'  blue,  that 

Dolce  color  d'oriental  zaffiro, 

Avliich  reflects  beaut}'  on  everything  beneatli  it.  It  is  the  sort  of 
scener}'  which  wins  rather  than  imjioses,  whose  grandeur  lies  in 
its  totality,  not  in  particular  features,  where  sublimity  takes  you 
not  by  storm,  but  retires  into  an  element  of  the  beautiful. 

Between  Sarteano  and  Chianciano  a  few  years  since  Avere  dis- 
covered the  remains  of  a  temple  in  which  were  found  fragments 
of  a  bronze  chariot — some  horses'  hoofs,  and  an  arm  of  the 
aurirja,  of  wonderful  beauty.  The  mountains  hereabouts  are 
said  to  abound  in  weapons  of  the  stone  period — arrow-heads, 
knives,  and  celts.^ 

Chianciano,  like  Sarteano,  stands  on  the  brow  of  a  lofty  liill, 
girt  with  corn,  vines  and  olives — a  proud  site,  lording  it  over  tlie 
wide  vale  of  the  Chiana,  and  tlie  twin  lakes  of  Chiusi  and  Monte- 
pulciano.     It  is  a  neat  town  of  about  two  thousand  souls,  and  is 

1  Jiull.  Inst.  ISGS,  p.  133. 


CHAP.  Lvii.]  THE    TOMBS    OF    CHIANCIANO.  309 

much  resorted  to  in  sunuuer,  for  the  hot  sprmgs  in  its  iieigh- 
honrliood.  Here  are  two  Httle  inns  of  very  humble  pretensions. 
The  Locanda  d'ltalia,  just  within  the  gate,  kept  by  Giovanni 
Cecchoni,  is  said  to  be  the  better. 

There  are  no  local  remains  of  high  antiquity  at  Chianciano, 
yet  it  seems  very  probable,  both  from  the  nature  of  its  position, 
:nid  from  the  discover}'  of  numerous  sepulchres  in  the  neighbour- 
hood, that  an  Etruscan  town  occupied  this  site.  In  truth  tbc 
modern  name  is  indicative  of  the  ancient  appellation,  being 
obviously  derived  from  the  Clanis."  The  beautiful  collection  of 
.Etruscan  antiquities,  formerly  in  the  possession  of  Signor  Carlo 
Casuccini  of  this  town,  has  been  disposed  of  smce  his  death.  At 
l)resent  the  principal  collection  of  such  roha  is  in  the  hands  of 
Signor  Giuseppe  ]^)artoli,  who  has  some  fine  specimens  of  the 
black  Avare  of  this  district — cisfc,  focolari,  and  cock-crowned  jars, 
Avith  some  painted  potter}'  also,  and  bronzes  of  various  descrip- 
tions— all  the  produce  of  his  own  excavations.  Doctor  Cecchi 
has  also  some  vases,  but  they  are  not  all  genuine. 

Many  Etruscan  tombs  have  been  opened  at  a  spot  called 
Volpajo,  near  the  mound  of  I  Gelli,  half  a  mile  from  Chianciano.*^ 
The  tombs  of  Chianciano  are  generally  found  choked  with  the 
debris  of  the  roof,  or  with  earth  that  has  washed  in,  and  require 
great  labour  to  clear  them,  and  after  all  they  contain,  or  seem  to 
contain,  nothing  beyond  the  corpse  and  a  few  black  pots  of  no 
\iilue  or  importance.  That  experienced  excavator,  Alessandro 
Francois,  here  suspected  deceit,  and  on  sounding  the  walls  he 
found  sundry  niches  filled  in  with  earth,  so  as  to  resemble  the 
rock  in  which  the  tomb  was  excavated.  Within  the  niche  was  a 
slab  fitted  to  the  cavity,  and  behind  that  a  beautiful  painted  vase, 
general!}'  of  archaic  character,  with  black  figures  on  a  yellow 
groimd.  These  concealed  niches  form  a  peculiarity  in  the  necro- 
jiolis  of  Sarteano,  and  the  vases  are  generally  of  the  second  style, 
while  of  tlie  pottery  found  at  Chiusi,  tlie  vases  with  yellow  figures 

-  Tlie  very  name  of  this  town  has  Lean  In  the  same  neighbourhooil,  at  a  si)ot  called 

found    in   an    Etruscan  inscription,   which  Le  Fornaci,  was  found,  half  a  century  since, 

contains  that  also  of  Clusium — "Clunsia."  the  remains  of  an  ancient  factory  of  vases 

Tlie  form  in  which  it  occurs  is    "  Claxi-  and  tiles,   of  Roman  times,  iielonging  to  a 

•  •lAxisrH."    Mus.  Chius.  II.  p.  222.     This  certain  L.  Gellius.     On  two  of  the  tiles  was 

is  probably  an  adjective,  the  la.st  syllable  inscribed  the  name  of  that  Siscnna,   who 

answering,  it  may  be,  to  the  Latin  adjec-  was  consul  in  the  year  of  Rome  76!>,  sixteen 

tival  termination, — estls — asacaio,  cielextis  years  after  Christ  ;  l>ut  though  of  so  late  a 

— nh  a'jro,  ar/jnttis—an  inflexion  common  date  the  word  is  written  from  right  to  left, 

also  in  modern  Italian.  in  the  Etruscan  style.     Bull.  Inst.  1832, 

3  ]5ull.  Inst.  18:3(1,  p.  6-3  ;  1831,  p,  38.  p.  33. 
VOL.  ir.  ]!  n 


370  CniANCIANO    AND    MOXTEPULCLVXO.     [chap,  lvih 

on  ii  Idack  prouiul  are  more  abuiulant.^  In  the  neigliltourliood 
of  Cliianciano  lias  been  found  one  of  the  rare  bilingual  inscrip- 
tions, in  Etruscan  and   Latin.     The   former  would   run  thus  in 

lioman  letters — 

CUINT.   SENU.   ARNTNAL. 

Avhich  is  translated  by 

Q.   SEXTIVS.   L.   F.   ARRIA.   XATVS. 

The  last  letter  in  the  second  word  of  the  Etruscan  epitaph,  was^ 
probably  T,  a  character  which  in  the  Etruscan  may  easily  be 
mistaken  for  an  U.'' 

Erom  Chiusi  to  Chianciano  by  railroad  is  a  distance  of  ten 
chilometres,  or  about  six  miles,  but  from  the  station  at  the  latter 
l^lace  to  the  town,  there  is  a  steep  ascent  of  at  least  four  miles,, 
so  that  the  intervening  distance  of  nine  miles  between  the  towns 
can  be  accompHshed  almost  as  speedily  by  the  carriage-road.  So 
also  with  the  journey  between  Chianciano  and  jNIontepulciano. 
By  the  direct  road,  which  is  not  in  the  best  order,  it  is  true,  the 
distance  is  only  four  miles.  But  he  who  thinks  to  save  time  by 
taking  the  train  will  be  greatly  deceived.  The  distance  between 
the  stations  is  eleven  chilometres,  or  about  seven  miles,  but  as- 
the  town  in  each  case  is  at  least  four  miles  from  the  station,  the 
entire  journey  by  this  drtour  will  be  extended  to  fifteen  miles. 

The  direct  road  skiits  the  brow  of  the  hills,  which  are  covered 
with  oak-Avoods  ;  about  half-wa}'  it  crosses  the  Acqua  Boglia,  a 
sulphureous  and  ferruginous  spring;  and,  on  the  approach  to 
Montepulciano,  passes  a  bare,  conical  hill,  called  Poggio  Tutoni, 
or  Tutona — a  name,  which  from  its  affinity  to  the  Tutni  or 
Tutna,  often  found  in  Etruscan  inscriptions  in  this  district, 
appears  to  be  very  ancient.^ 

Montepulciano  is  a  city  of  some  three  thousand  inhabitants, 
girt  by  walls  of  the  middle  ages,  and  cresting  a  lofty  height  at 
the  northern  extremity  of  this  range  of  hills.  It  is  built  on  so 
steep  a  slope,  that  it  would  seem  that  the  architects  of  the 
Cathedral  had  leagued  with  the  priests  to  impose  a  perpetual 
penance  on  the  inhabitants  by  placing  it  at  the  summit  of  the 
town.  The  most  interesting  building  is  the  chuix-h  of  San  Biagio, 
Avithout  the  Avails,  a  modern  edifice  after  the  designs  of  Sangallo, 
Avhich  oAves  its  existence   to   a   miracle   of  a  JNIadonna,  Avho  is 

■*  Dull.  In.st.  1851,  p.  fiO.  133,  22(i)  will  be  foinul  Etruscan  inscrip- 

'•  Bull.  Inst.  18il,  p.  11  ;  cf.  p.  80.  tiinis  with  this  family-nauie  ;  anil  I  have 

*  In  the  Mui-eo  Chiu.sino  (II.   jip.  124,       obsen'cd  them  both  at  Chiusi  and  Cetona. 


CHAP.  Lvii.]    ANGELOTTI  AND  BUCCI]LLI  COLLECTIONS.         371 

recorded  to  have  ^vinked  "  her  most  holy  eyes  "  at  two  washer- 
women, in  so  fascinating  a  manner  as  to  bring  even  a  herd  of 
cattle  to  their  knees  before  her  image. 

Montepulciano  is  supposed  to  be  an  Etruscan  site.  Its  situa- 
tion on  a  lofty  and  isolated  height,  and  tlie  remains  discovered  in 
its  neighbourhood,  favour  this  opinion.  Some  have  ascribed  its 
foundation  to  Porsena  ;  '  others  more  modestl}'  have  regarded  it 
as  the  Arretium  Fidens  of  Pliny, ^  or  as  the  Ad  Novas  of  the 
Peutingerian  Table.^  The  earliest  record  we  have  of  it  is  in  the 
year  715  after  Christ,  when  it  was  called  Castellum  Politianum.^ 
Its  ancient  name  must  remain  a  matter  of  conjecture,  till  fortune 
favours  us  with  some  local  inscription,  throwing  light  on  the 
subject.  No  vestiges  of  ancient  walls  are  now  extant,  nor  are 
there  any  tombs  open  around  the  town.  Yet  excavations  are 
occasionall}'  made  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  yield  cinerary  urns, 
the  usual  black  pottery,  painted  vases  of  diiferent  epochs,  and 
bronzes ;  a  good  collection  of  which  is  preserved  in  the  house  of 
Signor  Ferdinando  Angelotti,  all  found  at  the  Poggio  Serragio — 
together  with  some  very  early  Latin  inscriptions,  as  well  as 
Etruscan. 

Another  collection  of  monuments,  Etruscan  and  Latin,  dis- 
covered in  the  vicinity,  is  preserved  in  the  Palazzo  Buccelli.^ 
Here  are  sepulchral  inscriptions,  and  reliefs  from  sarcophagi  and 
urns,  embedded  in  the  facade — a  prodigal  display  of  antiquarian 
wealth,  which  is  lost  on  the  eyes  of  the  natives,  but  has  the 
advantage  of  attaching  the  relics  to  the  spot.  In  the  reliefs  are 
centaurs,  gorgons,  souls  on  horseback — but  nothing  of  extra- 
ordinary interest.  Some  of  the  inscriptions  are  remarkable  for 
having  Etruscan  names  in  Poman  letters,''  as — 

TITIA  •  C  •  L  A  .  .  .  ABASSA 

FAVSAL  ARNTHAL • FEAVNAL. 

Let  not  the  traveller  omit  to  i>ay  his  dcroirs  to  the  li([uid 
"  manna  of  Montepulciano,"  the  monarch  of  Tuscan,  if  not  of  all 
other  wines,  as  Bacchus  and  Pedi  have  pronounced  it — 

"  Montepulciano  d'ogni  vino  i-  il  Jli:'' 

"  Auctores    aji.    Dempster.    Etrur.    lleg.  north  of  Clusium,  see  tlie  Appendix  to  this 

II.  p.  422.  cliapter. 

^  Dempster.  II.  p.  423.  '  Ilepetti,  III.  p.  405. 

"  Cl'iver.  II.  p.   569  ;  Cramer,  AiR-icut  -  Gori,    ]\Ius.    E.rus.    I.    tab.    101-5; 

Italy,   I.   p.   247.     But  the  distance  from  Laiizi,  II.  p.  209  ;  Inghiranii,  ^lon.  Etrus. 

Chisium  is  much  more  tlian  9  miles.     For  I.  j).  14. 

the  stations  and  distances  on  the  Via  Cassia  '  Those  in  the  Etruscan  character  nieu- 

c  B  2 


372  CHIAXCIAXO    AXD   MOXTEPULCIAXO.     [chap.  lvii. 

Hark  to  the  ecstatic  joUiness  of  the  god  ! — 

"  Sweet  Ariadne — • 
Fill  me  the  manna  of  Montcpulciano  ! 
Fill  me  a  magnum,  and  reach  it  me. — Gods  I 
How  it  slides  to  my  heart  bj'  the  sweetest  of  roads  I 
Oh,  how  it  kisses  me,  tickles  me,  bites  me  ! 
Oh,  how  my  ej'es  loosen  sweetly  in  tears  ! 
I'm  ravished  !     I "m  rapt  I     Heaven  finds  me  admissible  ! 
Lost  in  an  ecstasy  I  blinded  !  invisible  ! 
Hearken  all  earth  I 

We,  Bacchus,  in  the  might  of  our  great  mirth 
To  all  who  reverence  us,  and  are  right  thinkers  ; — 
Hear,  all  ye  drinkers  ! 

Give  ear  and  give  faith  to  our  edict  divine— 
Montepulciano  's  the  king  of  all  wine." 

Moiitepulciano  commands  a  most  extensive  view  of  the  vale  of 
the  Chiana,  which,  after  lying  in  confined  luxm-iance  between 
this  range  and  the  triple  paps  of  Chiusi,  here  swells  out  and 
unfolds  its  beauties  in  a  wide  expanse  of  fertility ;  stretching 
northward  to  the  walls  of  Arezzo  and  the  tower-crowned  height 
of  Cortona ;  and  eastward  beyond  the  twin  lakes,  to  the  broad 
and  bright-bosomed  Thrasymene,  and  to  the  very  base  of  the 
hoary  Apennmes.  This  was  for  ages  a  drear}'  swamp,  proverbial 
for  pestilence  ; 

"  But  that  is  past,  and  now  the  zephyr  brings 
Health  in  its  breath,  and  gladness  on  its  wings."' 

It  is  now  one  of  the  most  fertile  tracts  in  Europe,  scarcel}'  less 
health}''  than  the  heights  around  it.  This  surprising  change, 
which  had  been  aimed  at  in  vain  for  two  centuries,  has  been 
effected  in  the  last  eighty  years  by  filling  up  the  swamp  with 
alluvial  deposits  ;  *  and  instead  of  slime  and  putrid  water,  it  now 
overruns  with  oil  and  wine,  and  all  the  wealth  of  a  southern  soil, 
and  in  place  of  the  fish  and  wild-fowl,  for  which  it  was  famed  of 
old,^  are  milk-wliite  oxen,  fair   as  the   steers  of  Clitumnus,  and 

tion  the  families  of  Varna  (Yarius),  Trepii  in  its  course  was  contemplated  as  long  since 

(Trebius),    TIcsna    or    Tresna   (Telesinus),  as  the  i-eign  of  Tiberius ;  but  the  Florentines 

Latini  (Latinus),  Seianti  (Sejanus),  Velthur  of  that  clay  sent  a  deputation  to  Rome  de- 

(Vcturius),    Pethni,    &;c.,    but  the   greater  ijrecating  such  a  change  on  the  ground  that 

part    belong    to    the    families    of    Lecne  their  lands  would  be  flooded  and  destroyed  ; 

(Licinius)  and  Tetina  (Titinius).  and  the   project  was  abandoned.      Tacit. 

''  In  the  Roman  portion  of  the  Yal  di  Annal.  I.  79. 
Chiana,   the   opposite    system   of   draining  5  xj,g  ;^,'^^^  ^^^j  KXovcnov  of  Strabo  (V, 

has  been  pursued,  and  with  little  success.  p.   22G)  must  refer  to  this  swamp,  then 

Repetti,  I.  p.  685.     The  Clanis  or  Chiana  under  water,  rather  than  to  either  of  the 

originally  fell  into  the  Tiber,   but  is  now  small    lakes    near   the   town,    which  were 

made  to  fall  into  the  Aruo.     This  change  probably  hardly  distinguishable. 


CHAP.  Lvii.]  YAL    DI    CniANA.  373 

flocks  of  sheei?,  tended  b}'  dark-eyed  Cliloes  and  Delias,  wlio 
watch  their  charge  as  they  sit  spinning  by  the  road-side. 

A  great  portion  of  the  phiin  formerly  belonged  to  the  Grand 
Duke,  who  had  a  small  jialace  at  Bettolle,  eleven  miles  from 
Montepulciano,  and  much  of  the  land  is  parcelled  off  into  small 
jioderi  or  fiirms,  all  built  on  one  plan,  and  titled  and  numbered 
like  papers  in  a  cabinet.  In  appearance  the  plain  is  much  like 
Lombard}',  the  products  are  similar,  the  fertility  equal,  the  road 
almost  as  level.  The  traveller  who  would  journe}'  across  it  to 
Arezzo  may  find  accommodation  at  Bettolle  or  Fojano.'" 

Every  one  must  be  struck  with  the  beauty  of  the  cattle  in  this 
district.  Thej'  are  either  purely  white  or  tinged  with  grey,  which 
in  the  sun  has  quite  a  lilac  bloom ;  and  their  eyes  are  so  large, 
soft,  and  lustrous,  that  one  ceases  to  wonder  that  Juno  was  called 
"  ox-eyed,"  or  that  Europa  eloj)ed  Avith  a  bull. 

At  various  spots  in  the  Val  di  Chiana,  Etruscan  tombs 
have  been  found ;  and  it  would  seem  that  some  of  the  eminences 
which  var}'  its  surface,  must  have  been  occuj)ied  in  ancient  times 
b}'  towns,  or  villages,  though  much  of  the  low  ground  was  under 
water." 

"  Montepulciano  is  13  miles  from  Chiusi  latest  and  best  style,  have  been  brought  to 

by  the  carriage  road,  7  from  Pienza,  18  or  light.     Bull.   Inst.    1843,  pp.  37,  38  ;  cf. 

19  from  Cortona,  and  32  or  33  from  Arezzo.  Micali,  Mon.  Ined.  p.  213,  tav.  35,  2.     At 

''  Near  Asiualiiuga,  and  also  on  a  hill  Marciano,  a  village  on  the  heights  by  the 

near  the  farm  of  Fonte  Rotella,  tombs  have  road-side,  a  few  miles  from  Fojano,  tombs 

been  found  with  curious  articles  in  bronze.  have   been   opened,    containing    numerous 

Bull.   Inst.   1834,  p.    200  ;  1835,  p.  126.  urns.     Bull.    Inst.    1830,   p.   202  ;    1868, 

Near  Lucignano,  18  miles  from  Arezzo,  in  p.  133.    At  Farneta,  also,  inscriptions  have 

some    hills,    called     "  Poggi    Grassi,"    or  been  found,  and  at  Brolio,  24  miles  from 

"delle   Belle    Donne,"   a  Roman   urn   of  Arezzo,  beautiful  bronzes,  many  of  which 

marble  and  some  red  Aretine  vases  have  are  preserved  in  the  Etruscan  Museum  at 

been  discovered.     Bull.  Inst.  1832,  p.  54.  Florence.     Vide  supra,  p.  87.    At  Casalta, 

Also  at  the  foot  of  the  "  Poggio  de' Morti, "  also,  in  the  Val  di  Chiana,  the  beautiful 

or    "Dead   Men's   Hill,"   some   Etruscan  vases  in  the  Museum  of  Arezzo,  represeut- 

urns,   of   the  families  of   "Spurina"  and  ing  Pelops  and  Hippodameia,  and  the  death 

"Thurice,"     with    female    ornaments    of  of  CEnomaus,  were  found.     See  p.  389. 
gold  and  silver,  and  painted  vases  in  the 


374 


CIILVXCIAXO    AND    M(  'XTEPULCIAXO.     [chap.  lvii. 


APPENDIX    TO    CHAPTER    LVII. 

XoRTH  of  Clusium  the  Itineraries  give  us  the  following  stations,  on   the 
VIA   CASSIA. 
{Coniinued  front  page  313.) 


AHTOSINE    ITIKERART. 

PEUTIXGERIAX 

TABLE. 

Clusium. 

Clusium. 

Ad  Statuas                  M.P.  XII. 

Ad  Xovas 

villi. 

Arretium                               XXV. 

Ad  GriBCOs 

vim. 

Ad    Fines,    sive    Casas 

Ad  Joglandem 

XII. 

Cffsaiianas                        XXV. 

Bituriha 

X. 

Florentiam                            XXV. 

Ad  Aquileia 

XIIIl. 

Pistorium                              XXV. 

Floreutia  Tuscorum 

— 

Lucam                                    XXV. 

Aruum  fl. 

— 

In  I'di-tn 

nil. 

Valuata 

XVII. 

Pisis 

VIII. 

From  Clusium  a  second  road  ran  more  to  the  west  to  Sena,  and  apparently 
to  Florentia,  according  to  the  same  TaMe  :  hut  tlie  distances  are  ver\' 
incoiTCct. 


Chisium. 

Ad  Novas 

Villi. 

]\Ianliana 

VIII. 

Ad  Mensulas 

XVIII. 

Umbro  fl. 

XVI. 

Sena  Julia 

VI. 

Ad  Sextum 

XVI. 

XXXIII. 

CHArTEll    LVIIL 

CITTA    LA    riEVE. 

Tokens  of  the  dead — the  ■wondrous  fame 

Of  the  i)ast  worKl 

Traditions  dark  and  old,  whence  evil  creeds 
Start  forth.  Shelley. 

The  most  prominent  feature  in  the  scenerj-^  of  Chiusi,  after 
Monte  Cetona,  is  the  town  of  Citta  la  Pieve,  which  stands  m  a 
commanding  position,  cresting  with  its  towers  the  lofty  hill 
to  the  south-east,  which  impends  almost  precipitously  over  the 
deep  valley  through  which  the  railroad  runs  to  Orvieto  and 
Home.  It  is  but  six  or  seven  miles  from  Chiusi,  and  the  road 
is  delightful,  winding  first  through  woods  of  brave  old  oaks, 
baring  their  lichen-clad  boughs  to  the  winter  sky,  above  an 
undergrowth  of  juniper  and  fern  ;  and  then,  on  the  higher  part  of 
the  ascent,  commanding  extensive  views  over  the  luxuriant  vale 
of  Chiana,  and  the  broad  Thrasymene  with  its  islands,  to  the 
Aiiennmes  stretching  their  snow  half  across  the  horizon. 

Citta  la  Pieve  shows  no  local  traces  of  Etruscan  antiquit}'-, 
although  tombs  of  that  character  have  been  found  in  the 
immediate  neighbourhood.  Its  name,  however,  a  corruption  of 
Civitas  Plebis,  seems  to  indicate  at  least  a  Roman  origin.  The 
town  is  neat  and  clean,  and  built  entirely  of  brick,  a  most 
unusual  feature  in  this  part  of  Italy.  As  it  contains  numerous 
works  of  Pietro  Perugino,  who  Avas  born  here,  to  say  nothing  of 
liis  paint-pots  and  sundry  letters  from  his  own  hand,  together 
with  some  interesting  Etruscan  remains,  the  traveller  may  be 
induced  to  halt  here  for  the  night.  Let  him,  in  tliat  case,  seek 
.shelter  at  the  "Locanda  de'  Tre  Mori,"  where  he  will  find  the  best 
accommodation  the  town  can  afford. 

The  Etruscan  anti(iuities  are  to  be  seen  in  the  houses  of 
the  Signori  Taccini,  ]\Ia/.zuoli,  and  (^uindici.  The  last-named 
gentleman    lias    a   sitting    ligure    of    Proserpine,    in    admirable 


376  CITTA    LA    TIEYE.  [chap,  lviii. 

preservation,  and  in  that  and  other  respects  superit)r  to  every 
similar  monument  I  remember  to  have  seen  in  Etruria.  It  is  of 
cispo,  nearly  as  large  as  life,  and  retains  traces  of  colour  and 
gilding.  The  goddess  is  represented,  as  usual,  sitting  in  a 
curule  chair,  which  in  this  instance  is  Hanked  on  each  side  by  a 
winged  sphinx,  and  covered  behind  -with  a  lion's  skin,  but  in 
spite  of  the  rigidity  of  early  art,  and  tlie  stiff  folds  of  her  drapery, 
there  is  a  dignity  and  even  ease  about  her  figure  rarely  seen  in 
Avorks  of  so  archaic  a  period.  In  this,  and  the  ideality  of  her 
features,  which  are  certainly  not  iconic,  she  seems  to  illustrate 
Homer's  epithet  of  ayavi]  Ilepcrefpoveia.  Her  head,  which  is 
movable,  as  usual,  the  figure  being  a  cinerary  urn,  is  bound 
with  a  quadruple  sfcphanc  or  chaplet,  gilt ;  but  she  wears  no 
other  ornaments.  In  her  right  hand,  which  she  rests  on  the 
head  of  the  sphinx  on  that  side,  she  appears  to  have  held  some 
object,  probably  a  wand;  her  left  reposes  on  the  arm  of  the  chair, 
and  holds  the  customary  pomegranate.  This  monument,  for  its 
excellent  style  of  archaic  art,  and  its  almost  perfect  state  of 
preservation,  demands  a  place  in  a  museum,  but  the  price  asked 
for  it  by  its  possessor  will  exclude  it  from  any  but  a  national 
collection. 

Signor  Luigi  Mazzuoli  possesses  a  number  of  vases,  principally 
Greek,  of  the  Third  style,  which  he  excavated  at  Gugliella,  six  or 
seven  miles  north  of  La  Pieve,  on  the  hill  of  Santa  Maria,  above 
the  Lake  of  Cliiusi. 

The  Taccixi  Collection. 

The  most  beautifid  collection  of  Etruscan  antiquities  in  Citta  la 
Pieve  is  in  the  possession  of  Signor  di  Giorgi  Taccini,  who  lives 
in  a  beautiful  villa  outside  the  town,  but  keeps  liis  antiquarian 
treasures  in  his  house  within  the  walls.  His  collection  of  urns  is 
jiarticularl}'  choice,  for  their  admirable  preservation,  and  their  poly- 
chrome character,  as  well  as  for  the  superior  art  many  of  them 
display,  and  the  novelty  of  the  subjects  in  some  of  the  reliefs. 

I.  The  monument  which  strikes  your  eye  on  entering  is  a 
cinerary  um  of  alabaster,  on  whose  lid  reposes  the  figure  of  a 
man  half-draped,  patera  in  one  hand,  as  usual,  but  his  other 
passed  round  the  neck  of  a  woman,  who,  instead  of  reclining,  sits 
on  the  couch  beside  him,  resting  her  feet  on  a  stool.  Her  feet 
form  part  of  the  lU'n,  but  the  rest  of  her  body  is  attached  to  the 
lid.  Her  eyes,  lips,  cheeks,  hair,  are  all  painted  to  the  life,  and 
her  robes  are  decorated  with  a  red  border.     In  this  urn  were 


CHAP.  Lviii.]  Till]    TACCINI    COLLECTION.  377 

found  two  magnificent  necklaces,  two  spinils  for  the  liair,  a  very 
large  earring,  and  some  small  acorns — all  oi  gold,  which  are 
exhibited  in  the  same  chamber. 

II.  An  urn  with  a  recumbent  male  figure,  named  "  Larth 
Purnei  Kurke."  The  relief  exhibits  a  combat  between  two  men 
on  horseback  and  four  on  foot.  The  design  is  full  of  spirit,  and 
ajjpears  to  be  taken  from  a  Greek  original.  At  one  end  of  the 
urn  is  represented  the  suicide  of  Ajax;  at  the  other,  a  warrior  is 
sinking  in  death,  Avith  a  bird  ])erched  on  his  helmet,  in  the  act  of 
peeking  out  his  eyes.  The  urn  retains  traces  of  the  colouring 
with  Avhich  it  was  decorated. 

III.  On  the  lid  of  this  urn  a  woman  reclines,  with  an  crnochoc 
in  her  hand.  She  is  named  "  Larthi  l^uiiei  Rapalnisa."  In 
the  relief  the  Death  of  Laius  is  represented  with  the  usual 
features — the  chariot  o\'erthrown — one  horse  struggling  on  the 
ground — a  I\uy  with  a  torch  seizing  another  by  the  bridle — 
(Kdipus  unconsciousl}-  cutting  down  his  own  father,  assisted  by 
a  comrade  who  brandishes  a  fragment  of  the  wheel  over  the 
prostrate  king. 

IV.  Another  urn,  on  whose  lid  reclines  a  short  stump}' 
figure,  a  true  "  ohcsus  Etruscus,''  named  "  Arnti  Purni,"  dis- 
l)lays  in  its  relief  a  rare  subject,  generally  supposed  to  be  the 
murder  of  Agamemnon  by  Clytiemnestra.  A  figure  draped  to  the 
feet,  and  whose  head  is  covered  with  a  veil,  sits  on  a  chair  in  the 
centre  of  the  scene.  Opposite  stands  a  woman,  clad  in  tunic  and 
mantle,  who  with  a  stool  lifted  high  over  her  head,  is  in  the  act  of 
striking  down  the  veiled  figure.     Two  armed  men  fiank  the  scene. ^ 

V.  An  urn  with  a  male  figure,  called  "  Larth  I'urni  Larthi 
liauphesa."  The  relief  displays  a  scene  which  may  be  interpreted 
as  Electra  and  her  brother  Orestes  at  the  tomb  of  Agamenmon, 
although  no  sepulchre  is  visible.  She  stands  naked,  yet  wearing 
the  usual  adornments  of  her  sex,  in  an  attitude  of  deep  dejection; 
Orestes,  also  without  draper}',  sits  weeping  below  her ;  IVlades 
sits  by  his  side  ;  a  female  attendant  brings  a  wine-jar  and  a  })late 

*  Count    Giancarlo     Conestabile    (Bull.  ncstra.    Cf.  Soph.  Electra,  204.    It  is  more 

Inst.  18G4,  p.  231)  takes  the  veileil  tigiuo  accordant  with  the  version  of   ^Ischyhis, 

for  a  woman,  but  does  not  attempt  to  put  who  represents  him  as  slain  by  his  treacher- 

another  interpretation  on  the  scene.     If  it  ous  wife,  who  threw  a  net  over  him  when 

be  a  male,  as  it  appeared  to  me,  it  may  well  in  the  bath,  and  despatched  liiju  with  a 

be  intended  for  Agamemnon.     It  certainly  double-edged  weapon  (Agam.  1492,   1496, 

does  not  agree  with  the  description  given  1516,   l.")39).     Knrijiides  (Orest.   26)  does 

by  Homer,  who  (Odys.  XI.  410)  represents  not  specify  a  net,  but  describes  her  as  using 

"  the  king  of  men  "  as  treacherously  slain  a  garment  from  which  he  could  not  escape, 
at  a  banquet  by  ^gisthus   and   Clytiem- 


378  CITTA    LA    PIEVE.  [chap,  lviii. 

of  fruit,  an  oftVi-int,',  perhaps,  to  the  manes  of  the  deceased.  Two 
horses  are  hekl  by  warriors  behind,  and  two  armed  men,  one  at 
each  end,  complete  the  scene. 

VI.  Another  m'n  shows  the  oft  repeated  subject  of  the  Theban 
Brothers,  here  tohl  in  a  novel  manner.  The  combatants  are 
preparing  for  the  encounter,  each  being  held  back  by  a  female 
ligiu'e,  who  in  this  case  may  represent  their  good  genius,  but  the 
winged  Fmy,  who  with  a  monstrous  serpent  bound  round  her 
waist,  springs  from  an  altar  in  the  midst,  shows  herself  as  their 
Kcr,  or  the  demon  of  their  doom,  although  without  the  teeth  and 
claws  of  a  wild  beast,  as  she  was  represented  in  a  similar  scene 
on  the  Chest  of  C3']5selus.~  At  one  end  of  the  urn  stands  Charun, 
leaning  on  his  mallet ;  at  the  other  sits  a  hideous  she-demon, 
with  two  fearful  snakes  springing  from  her  shoulders.  This  urn 
retains  many  vestiges  of  the  colour  with  which  it  was  decorated. 

VII.  An  alabaster  urn  with  a  headless  male  figure,  named 
'' Arnth  Purni  Kurkesa."  The  principal  figure  in  the  relief  is  a 
young  man  with  dishevelled  hair,  and  without  drapery,  though  he 
wears  a  long  necklace  of  hulhc  and  tiny  vases  strung  together 
alternately,  who  sits,  resting  a  lyre  on  his  thigh,  as  though  he 
were  about  to  strike  its  chords.  Behind  him  is  the  head  of  a 
horse,  whose  bridle  is  held  by  a  bearded  and  armed  warrior.  In 
the  foreground  are  two  female  figures,  one  of  whom,  though  on  her 
knees,  is  armed  with  a  sword.  A  warrior  at  each  end  completes 
the  scene.     It  is  not  eas}-  to  interpret  this  singular  subject. 

VIII.  Another  man  of  the  same  family — "Larth  Purni  Alpha" 
— reclines  on  the  lid.  The  relief  shows  two  young  warriors  about 
to  engage  in  combat  for  a  girl  who  sits  half-draped  on  the  gi'ouud 
between  them.  A  Lasa,  with  a  scroll  in  one  hand,  holds  a  horse 
b}'  tlie  bridle  with  the  other. 

Other  unis  display  combats  between  warriors  on  foot  or  on  horse- 
back, but  have  nothing  sufficiently  remarkable,  either  as  regards 
the  art  or  the  subject  of  the  reliefs,  to  require  a  particular  notice. 

The  antiquities  in  this  collection  were  found  some  five  or  six 
years  since,  in  the  plain  below  Citta  la  Pieve  to  the  west,  or  rather 
in  a  wooded  hill  called  "II  Butarone,"  which  forms  the  further 
extremity  of  "  Poggio  Lungo,"  the  long  range  of  oak-covered 
heights,  which  stretch  southward  from  the  railway  station  at 
Chiusi.  The  tombs  which  yielded  them  doubtless  belonged  to 
the  necropolis  of  Clusium. 

-  Pau.san.  V.  19.  C. 


CHAPTER    LIX.     . 

XKEyJZsO.— ARRET  lUM. 

Sic  tempora  verti 
Cernimus,  atqne  illas  adsumere  robora  gentes, 
Coucidcre  lias. 

Ovid. 

"  Can  any  good  come  out  of  Nuzaretli  ?  "  was  asked  of  old. 
"  Can  any  good  come  elsewhere  than  from  Arezzo  ?  "  one  is 
ready  to  inquire,  on  beholding  the  numerous  tablets  in  the 
streets  of  that  city,  recording  the  unparalleled  virtues  and  talents 
of  her  sons.  Here  dwelt  "  the  monarch  of  wisdom," — there  "  an 
incomparable  pupil  of  Melpomene," — this  was  "the  stoutest 
champion  of  Tuscany,  the  dread  and  terror  of  the  Turks,"  —  and 
that, — tlic  world  ne'er  saw  his  like, — for 

"  Natura  il  fece,  e  poi  ruppe  la  stampa" — ' 

no  unapt  metaphor  for  a  city  of  potters,  as  this  was  of  old. 
Verily  ma}' it  be  said,  "  Parlano  in  Arezzo  (incora  i  sassV — the 
ver}'  stones  are  eloquent  of  the  past  glories  of  Arezzo,  and  of  her 
maternal  pride.  Yet  some  of  her  children's  names  have  fdled 
the  trump,  not  only  of  Tuscan,  but  of  universal  fame ;  and  the 
city  which  has  produced  a  ]Miecenas  and  a  Petrarch  may  be 
pardoned  for  a  little  vanity.^ 

It  is  not  for  me  to  set  forth  tlie  modern  glories  of  Arezzo — her 
Cathedral  with  its  choice  monuments  of  scul2)ture  and  painting — 
tlie  quaint-fashioned  clnirch  of  La  Pieve — the  localities  immor- 
talised by  Boccaccio — the  delightful  promenade  on  her  ramparts 

'  This  idea  has  been  beautifully  i-oiidered  bard,   might  -well  have  dispensed  with  it, 

by  Byron —  has  his  monument  in  Arezzo.    On  the  grass- 

"  Sighing  that  Xaturc  made  but  one  sucli  plot  by  the  Duomo  is  a  granite  column  to 

man,  Iiis  memory.  — "  C.  Cilnio  M;eccnati  Arre- 

And  lirokethe  die,  in  mouhling  Shcrithin."  tino,  Concives  tanto  nomine  decorati,  P.  C, 

*  Even  Miecenas,  who,  having  found  his  I'rid.  Idus  Jlai  ISl'J,  L.  d.  s.  C." 


380  AEEZZO.  [chap.  lix. 

— the  in-otluce  of  her  vineyards,  renowned  in  ancient  times/'  and 
sung  at  the  present  day,  as  the  juice  which 

Termigliuzzo, 

Brillantiizzo, 

Fa  superbo  1'  Aretino. 

I5ut  I  may  assure  the  traveller  that  nowhere  on  his  journeyings 
in  Etruria  will  he  find  Letter  accommodatio]i  than  at  LaVittoria, 
or  the  Locanda  lleale  d'  Inghilterra,  at  Arezzo.^ 

This  large  and  lively  city  is  the  representative  of  the  ancient 
Arretium  or  Arctium,^  a  venerable  city  of  Etruria,  and  one  of 
the  Twelve  of  the  Confederation.  Of  its  origin  we  have  no 
record.''  The  earliest  notice  of  it  is,  that  with  Clusium,  Yola- 
terrfe,  Eusellie,  and  Yetulonia,  it  engaged  to  assist  the  Latins 
against  Tarquinius  Priscus.^  We  next  hear  of  it  in  the  year 
443  (B.C.  311)  as  refraining  from  joining  the  rest  of  the  Etruscan 
cities  in  theii-  attack  on  Sutrium,  then  an  alh*  of  liome;^  j^et  it 
must  have  been  drawn  into  the  war,  for  in  the  following  3'ear,  it 
is  said,  jointly  with  Perusia  and  Cortona,  all  three  among  the 
chief  cities  of  Etruria,  to  have  sought  and  obtained  a  truce  for 
thirt}'  years.^ 

In  the  year  453  (b.c.  301)  the  citizens  of  Arretium  rose  against 
their  leading  family,  the  Cilnii,  whose  great  wealth  had  excited 
their  jealousv,  and  drove  them  out  of  the  city.  The  Piomans 
espoused  the  cause  of  the  exiles,  and  Valerius  Maximus,  the 
dictator,  marched  against  the  Arretines  and  the  other  Etruscans 
who  had  joined  them  ;  but  during  his  absence  from  the  arm}',  in 
order  to  reconsult  the  auspices  at  Rome,  his  lieutenant  in 
command  fell  into  an  ambuscade,  and  met  with  a  signal  defeat. 
The  Etruscans,  however,  were  eventually  overcome  in  the  fields 
of  Piuselhe,  and  their  might  was  broken.^ 

'•'  Arretium  liad  three  soi-ts  of  grapes —  ancient  writers. 
"  taljjaiia,   et  etesiaca,   et  conseminia" —  '  Diou.  Hal.  III.  c.  51.     This,  as  already 

•whose  peculiarities  are  set  forth  by  Pliny,  stated  with  reference  to  the  other  four  cities, 

XIV.  4,  7.  is  a  ijroof  of  the  rank  Arretium  took  as  one 

■*  Arezzo  is   18  miles  from  Cortona,   31  of  the  Twelve  ;  which  is  fully  confirmed  by 

from  Jlontepulciano,    more  than   40  from  Liv}'. 
Chiusi,  nearly  as  many  from  Siena,  and  ^  Liv.  IX.  32. 

51  from  Florence.  '■'  Liv.  IX.  37  ;  Diodor.  Sic.  XX.  p.  773. 

5  It  is  spelt  both  waj's  by  classic  writers  ;  '  Liv.  X.   3-5.     Some  authorities,  adds 

but  ancient  inscriptions  always  give  Arre-  Livy,  state  that  there  was  no  warfare  con- 

tium.     Cluver.  H.  p.  571.  sequent  on  the  insurrection  of  the  Arretines, 

^  Cluver  considered  it  to  have  been  prior  but  that  it  was  peaceably  sui)pressed,  and 

to  the    Trojan   War,    and    to   have   been  the  Cilnian  family  restored  to  the  favour  of 

founded  either  by  the   Umbri   or  Pelasgi.  the  people.      It  was  of  this  "  royal  "  house 

But  there  is  no  statement  to  that  efl'ect  in  that  Majceuas  came. 


CHAP.  Lix.]  HISTORY    OF    Ar.EETimi.  381 

In  the  war  whicli  tlie  Ktruscans,  in  alliance  with  the  (innls 
and  Unibrians,  waged  against  lionie  in  the  3'ears  459  and  460, 
Avretium  took  part,  and  with  Pernsia  and  N'olsinii,  the  mightiest 
cities  of  the  land,  sustained  anotlicr  defeat  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  Iiusella',  and  was  forced  to  sue  for  peace. "^ 

The  last  mention  we  tind  of  Arretium,  in  the  time  of  national 
independence,  is  that  it  was  besieged  b^^  the  Gauls  about  the 
year  409,  and  that  the  llomans,  vainly  endeavouring  to  relieve 
it,  met  witli  a  signal  defeat  under  its  walls.'^  There  is  no  record 
of  the  date  or  the  manner  of  its  final  conquest  by  liome.  It 
was  at  Arretium  that  the  consul  Fhiminius  fixed  his  camp  before 
the  fatal  overthrow  on  the  shores  of  the  Tln'asymene.''  The  city 
did  not  remain  faithful  during  the  Punic  War,  but  made  several 
efforts  to  throw  ofi'  the  yoke,  and  the  Komans  were  compelled  to 
make  hostages  of  the  sons  of  the  senatin-s,  and  put  new  keys  on 
the  city-gates.'  Yet  towards  the  close  of  the  war,  Arretium 
furnished  her  quota  of  supplies — corn,  weapons,  and  other 
nuniitions  of  war — for  Scipio's  fieet.''  In  the  civil  contests  of 
Sylla  and  Marius,  she  sided  witli  the  latter,  and  would  have 
suffered  from  the  victor  the  loss  of  her  lands  and  citizenship,  but 
for  the  eloquence  of  Cicero,  who  pleaded  her  canse.^  Many  of 
the  colonists  afterwards  espoused  the  cause  of  Catiline.*^  In  the 
war  between  Caesar  and  Pompey,  Arretium  was  one  of  the  first 
places  seized  by  the  former.'''  Her  fertile  lands  were  three  times 
partitioned  among  the  soldiers  of  the  Republic,  and  the  colonies 
established  were  distinguished  by  the  names  of  Arretium  Yetus, 
Fidens,   and  Julium.^     The   former  was    still  one   of  the   chief 

-  Liv.  X.   37. — Tres  validissimte  iivbes,  "  Cicero,  pro  Ciccina,   33  ;  ad  Attic.   I. 

Etriiriffi  capita,  Volsinii,  Perusia,  Arretium,  19. 
paceni  peticre.  '*  Cicero,  pro  JIurend,  24. 

3  Polyb.  II.  19.     Orosius  (III.  22)  refers  "J  Cicero,  ad  Divers.  Xyi.   12  ;  Cresar, 

this  event  to  the  year  463,   but  if  he  is  Jicll.  Civ.  I.  11. 

correct  instating  that  it  was  in  the  consulate  '  I'lin.    III.    8.       Repetti    (I.    p.    113) 

of  Dolabella  and   Domitius,  it  occurred  in  refers   the  colony  of  Arretium  Fidens    to 

471  (B.C.  283).  Sylla  ;   yet  Cicero   (ad  Attic.    I.    19)   ex- 

•*  Liv.  XXII.  2,  3  ;  Polyb.  III.  77,  80  ;  pressly  states  that  though  Sylla  had  confis- 

Ciccro  (de  Divin.   1.    35)  tells  us  that  the  cated  the   lands  of   the  Arretiiii,    he  was 

Consul  and  his  horse  here  fell  suddenly  to  prevented  by  himself  from  dividing  them 

the   ground   before    a    statue   of    Jupiter  among  his  legions.     The  Arretium  Julium 

Stator,    yet  he  neglected  the  omen  ;    and  was  established  under  the  Triumvirate,  as 

when  he  consulted  the  auspices,  though  the  Frontinus  (deColoniis)  assures  us.   Arretium 

holy  chickens  would  not  feed  propitiously,  is  also  mentioned  as  a  colony  by  Ptolemy 

he   refused    to    regard    the    warning,    and  (p.  72,  ed.  Bert,),  and  as  a  Hi«/;/n^;('«/rt  by 

inarched  out  to  his  own  destruction,  Isidor  (Orig.  XX.   4),  and  by  inscriptions. 

*  Liv.  XXyil.  21,  22,  24.  Dempster,  II.  p.  311.     Cluvcr  (II.  p.  5/2) 

*  Liv.  XXVIII.  4.5.  thinks  it  must  have  been  a  municipiuin  of 


382 


AEEZZO. 


[chap.  lix. 


cities  of  Etruria  under  the  Empire.-  Though  said  to  have  heen 
destroyed  hy  Totihi,  the  Vandal,  Arretiuni  rose  from  lier  ashes, 
•withstood  all  the  vicissitudes  of  the  dark  ages,  which  proved  so 
fatal  to  many  of  her  fellows,  and  is  still  represented  hy  a  city, 
which,  though  shorn  of  her  ancient  pre-eminence,  takes  rank 
among  the  chief  of  Tuscany. 

The  walls  of  An-etium  were  renowned  of  old  for  the  pecuHarity 
and  heauty  of  their  construction,  heing  iormed  of  hrick'^ — the 
only  instance  on  record  of  such  a  material  heing  employed  in  an 
Etruscan  town.  It  has  heen  asserted  that  those  ancient  forti- 
fications still  inclose  the  modern  city ;  hut  after  a  careful  exami- 
nation. I  am  convinced  that  not  a  fragment  of  the  existing  Avails 
can  lay  claim  to  an  Etruscan  origin.*  In  truth,  it  appears  to 
me  extremely  questionable  if  Arezzo  occupies  the  site  of  the 
original  city. 

Signor  Gamurrini,  however,  to  whose  courtesy  I  am  indebted 
for  much  valuable  information  respecting  this  his  native  city,  is 
of  the  contrary  opinion,  and  though  he  does  not  claim  the 
existing  fortifications  to  be  of  Etruscan  construction,  he  assures 
me  that  the  line  of  the  original  walls  can  he  clearly  traced,  and 
that  fragments  of  them  are  to  he  seen  in  the  Via  Colcitrone,  the 
Borgo  Unto,  and  Borgo  degli  Orti,  all  of  isochmion  masonry.     I 


the  tliird  kind  described  by  Festus  {xiih 
voce),  of  which  tlie  inhabitants  enjoyed  the 
citizenship  of  Rome,  together  with  the 
internal  administration  of  their  own  city. 

-  Strabo,  Y.  p.  226.  He  states  that  it 
was  the  most  inland  city  of  Etruria,  and  a 
thousand  stadia.  (125  miles)  from  Eonie  ; 
which  is  less  than  the  real  distance.  Tiie 
Antonine  Itinerary  is  nearer  the  truth  in 
making  the  distance  139  miles.  See  pp. 
313,  374. 

'•>  Vitruv.  II.  8.— E  latere  ....  in  Italia 
Aretii  vet u stum  egregie  factum  munira.  cf. 
Plin.  XXXV.  4'J.  It  may  be  remarked 
that  both  Vitruvius  and  Pliny  speak  of  this 
wall  in  the  singular  number.  From  this 
Signor  (jaraurrini  concludes  that  they  do 
not  refer  to  the  fortifications  of  the  city, 
l)ut  to  some  particular  jjiece  of  walling  of 
that  peculiar  construction,  and  he  thinks 
he  has  found  vestiges  of  this  wall  at  two 
Ijoints  within  Arezzo,  constructed  of  bricks 
nearly  a  yard  long.  Yet  the  singular 
number  is  frequently  used  by  the  Koman 
historians  when  speaking  of  the  fortifica- 
tions in  general  of  a  city,  and  we  see  no 


reason  to  doubt  that  Yitruvius  and  Pliny 
so  used  it  in  this  instance. 

■*  So  far  are  the  walls  of  Arezzo  from 
being  of  Etruscan  construction,  that  there 
is  not  a  fragment  of  such  antiquity  in  the 
entire  circuit.  I  have  fully  satisfietl  myself 
on  this  point.  The  walls  are  for  the  most 
part  of  squared  stones,  not  unlike  bricks, 
in  size  and  form,  jiut  together  with  cement ; 
and  they  are  patched  here  and  there  with 
larger  masoniy  also  cemented,  and  of  yet 
more  recent  date — all  undoubtedly  the  work 
of  the  middle  ages,  and  of  no  remote  period. 
In  the  walls  in  the  higher  part  of  the 
town,  around  tlie  Cathedral,  there  are  frag- 
ments of  earlier  construction,  of  brick-work, 
l^ossibly  Roman,  for  it  is  like  that  in  build- 
ings of  late  Imperial  times.  The  best  frag- 
ments are  near  the  Porta  del  Casentino. 
The  brickwork  of  the  Etruscans,  the  precep- 
tors of  the  Romans  in  architecture,  may  be 
supposed  to  have  resembled  the  fragments 
found  at  Ycii  (Yol.  I.  p.  13),  or  the  earlier 
structures  of  the  Romans,  rather  than  any 
later  style  of  tliat  peo]ile. 


CHAP.  Lix.]  ANCIENT    WALLS    OF    BRICK.  38.') 

rej^ret  that  since  the  receipt  of  tliis  intorniation,  I  have  not  been 
able  to  revisit  Arezzo. 

Tn  the  garden  of  the  Passionist  Convent,  in  tlie  lower  ])art  of 
the  town,  are  some  Roman  ruins,  of  ojnis  VL'tlciihitinn.  connnonly 
called  the  Ampliitheatre,  but  not  a  seat  remains  in  the  carcd  to 
indicate  that  siieh  was  the  purpose  of  the  structure.  Like  the 
amphitheatre  of  A'olterra,  a)id  the  theatre  of  Fiesole,  tliis  huildin.u" 
■was  long  considered  to  be  Etruscan,  but  its  Roman  origin  is 
most  manifest.' 

iVi'retium  was  celebrated  of  old  for  lier  pottery,  which  was  of 
red  ware.^  Pliny  speaks  of  it  in  connection  with  that  of  Samos, 
Surrentum,  Saguntum,  and  Pergamos,  and  says  it  Avas  used  for 
dry  meats  as  well  as  for  liquids,  and  was  sent  to  various  parts  of 
the  world.^  It  was  much  emjiloA-ed  for  ordinary  purposes,  and  on 
this  account  is  sneered  at  by  Martial.^ 

In  excavations  made  at  various  times  within  the  walls  of 
Arezzo,  generally  in  laying  the  foundations  of  buildings,  much 
of  this  pottery  has  been  brought  to  light ;  in  one  place,  indeed, 
the  site  of  a  factory  was  clearl}'  indicated.^  This  ware  is  of  very 
fine  clay,  of  a  bright  coral  hue,  adorned  Avitli  reliefs,  rather  of 
flowers  than  of  figures,  and  bearing  the  maker's  name  at  the 
bt)ttom  of  the  vase.  In  form,  material,  decoration,  and  style  of 
art,  it  is  so  totally  unlike  the  produce  of  any  Etruscan  necrojiolis, 
that  it  scarcely  needs  the  Latin  inscriptions  to  mark  its  origin.' 

■'  Govi  (]\Ius.  Etrus.  III.  p.  55,  cl.  I.  tab.  ordinary  jniriwses  is  also  shown  by  Persius 

7)  took  it  to  be  Etruscan.     Did  not  remains  (I.  130),  who  speaks  of  an  ajdile  breaking 

of  seats,  steps,  and  pr(ecinctiones,  exist  those  jiots  which  were  not  of  just  measure, 
beneath  the  soil,  as  Gori  affirms,  I  should  "  In  Itiyiug  the  foundations  of  the  new 

take  the  ruin  for  a  bath,  as  it  bears  more  theatre  a  quantity  of  this  ware  was  found, 

resemblance  to  certain  structures  of  that  together     with    moulds     for    casting    the 

<lcscription,  than  lo  an  amphitheatre.  reliefs,    and    remains   of  vitrified   earth — 

*  I.-idor.  Orig.  XX.  4.  marking  the  site  of  a  pottery.     Bull.  Inst. 

"  riin.  XXXV.  46.  —  Samia  etiamnum  in  1830,  p.  23S.     In  veiy  recent  excavations, 

esculetis  laudantur.     Retinet  banc  nobili-  Signor  Gramnmni  has  brought  to  light  an 

tatem  et  Arretium  in  Italia  ;  et  calicum  aliundance  of  this  red  ware,  all  in  frag- 

tantura,    Sun-entnm,    Asta,    Pollentia ;    in  meuts.     It   is   now    in  the   house   of  his- 

Hispania     Saguntum,     in     Asia     Perga-  relative,  Signor  Giudice. 
mum  ....  sic  gentes  nobilitantur.     Haec  '  The  inscription  is  generally  the  maker  s 

quoque  p:r  maria  terrasque  ultro  citroquc  name  alone,  though  his  business  and  the 

l)ortantiir,  insignibus  rota;  officinis.  site    of    the    manufacture   are    sometimes 

«  Mart.  I.  epig.  54,  6—  added,  thus— 
Sic  Aretinse  Tiolant  crj'stallina  testa;.  ^  •  "^^"^^  • 

FIOVL 

And  again,  XIV.  98 —  arret  . 

Aretina  nimis  ne  spernas  vasa,  monemus  ;         Bull.    Inst.  1834,  pp.    102,  I'.O.      For  the 

Lautus  erat  Tuscis  Porsena  fictilibus.  „ „+„,        1*1  t?  v       ■ 

names  stami)cd  on  these  vases,  see  Fabroni, 

Tliat  the  potterj'  of  Arretium  was  used  foi       Vasi  Fittili  Aretini,  tav.   11  ;  Bull.  Inst. 


3S1  AEEZZO.  [CHAP.  Lix. 

Moreover,  the  decorations  betray  a  late  period  of  art — the 
elegance  and  finish  of  Anfjustau  times,  not  the  simplicity  and 
severit}'  of  the  purely  Etruscan  style — very  unlike  the  quaint 
reliefs  on  the  pottery  of  the  neighbouring  district  of  Cliiusi. 
The  subjects,  too,  are  not  the  strange  chima?ras  of  the  early 
monuments  of  Etrm-ia,  nor  the  scenes  of  Etruscan  and  Greek 
mythology  on  the  urns,  on  the  walls  of  tombs,  and  on  the 
painted  vases  ;  but  in  general  unmeaning  arabesques,  like  those  of 
Pompeii,  though  figures  are  occasionally  introduced.  Xone  of  this 
ware,  so  fiir  as  I  can  learn,  has  been  found  with  Etruscan  inscrip- 
tions or  devices  ;  nor  ever  in  Etruscan  tombs,  though  often  in 
lioman  ones  of  the  early  Empire.-  Therefore,  though  it  were 
too  much  to  assert  that  the  Etruscans  never  formed  such  a  ware, 
it  is  probable  that  all  hitherto  found  is  of  Roman  times.  It  is 
discovered  chiefly,  but  not  exclusively,  at  Arezzo.  Specimens  of 
it  are  occasionally  brought  to  light  on  other  sites  in  Etruria  ;  it 
is  found  also,  and  in  abundance,  at  Modena.'^ 

From  the  excavations  made  at  various  periods  within  and 
around  the  walls  of  Arezzo,  it  is  pretty  evident  that  the  Etruscan 
necropolis,  though  not  the  Etruscan  city,  occupied  the  site  of  the 
modern  town.  On  the  low  ground,  near  the  railway  station,  at  a 
spot  called  Pratello  del  Poggio,  to  the  left  of  the  circular  Piazza, 
which  you  cross  on  the  way  from  the  station  to  the  town, 
numerous  Etruscan  tombs  have  been  found,  which  have  yielded 
pots  of  black  hncchero,   together  with  some  painted  vases,  and 

lS3i,  pp.  102,  150.     Some  of  these  names  tion,  at  Toscanella.     Bull.  Inst.  1839,  p. 

are  Greek,   which  Inghirami  regards  as  a  28.     The  same  pottery  has  been  discovered 

proof  that  the  Etruscans  employed  Greek  in  some  quantity  at  Cervetri.     Bull.  Inst, 

artists.     Mon.  Etnis.  V.  p.  11.  1S39,    p.    20.      I  have  found  many  frag- 

-  The  only  instance,  I  believe,  in  which  ments  on  the  Ara  Regina  at  Tarquinii.  The 

this  pottery  has  been  found  in  connection  red  ware,  found  in  abundance  at  ilodena, 

with   Etruscan  ailicles,   is  where  a  small  is  precisely  like  this  of  Arezzo,  even  to  the 

marble  um  with  a  bilingual   inscription,  names  and  seals  of  the  potters,  which  are 

now  in  the  JIuseum,  was  discovered  in  a  oft^n  identical  (Bull.   Inst.   1837,  p.   li  ; 

niche  in  a  rock,  half  a  mile  from  Arezzo,  1841,  p.    1-14) — a  fact,   which  as  ilutina 

surrounded  by  these  red  vases.     Bull.  Inst.  had  also  its  peculiar  iiottery  (Plin.  loc.  cit. 

1834,  p.  140.     But  from  this  we  can  only  — habent  et  Tralles  opera  sua,  et  ilutina  in 

deduce  that  the  Etruscan   character  had  Italia)  must  be  explained  by  the  commerce 

not  wholly  fallen  into  disuse  at  the  period  which  existed  in  such  articles, 

of  the  manufacture  of  this  ware.     ^liiller  For  an  account  of  the  Arretine  pottery 

(Etrusk.  IV.  3,  1)  regarded  this  pottery  as  see    Dr.    Fabroni's   work,    "Storia    degli 

Etruscan  ;  but  his  opinion  appears  to  be  Antichi  Va.siFittili  Aretini,"  1841,  Svo,  pp. 

formed  rather  on  the  notices  of  the  ancients  78.      Inghirami,  Jlon.  Etrus.  V.  pp.  1-12, 

than  on  practical  acquaintance.  tav.   I.      And    besides  the    notices   in   the 

^  In  the  British  iluseum  is  a  tazzti  of  publications  of  the  Arclueological  Institute, 

this  red  ware,  with  the  word  "  lai'I  "  on  already  cited,  see  Bull.  Inst.  1837,  p.  105. 
it,  found,  with  others  of  the  same  descrii)- 


CHAP.  Lix.]  MUSEO    PUBBLICO.  38,3 

little  figures  and  mirrors  in  bronze.  Etruscan  inscriptions  have 
been  found  in  the  river  as  well  as  beneath  the  walls  on  that  side 
of  the  cit}-.  In  the  spring  of  18G9,  at  a  very  short  distance  from 
the  walls,  Signor  Gamurrini  found  180  idols  of  bronze,  witli 
many  votive  offerings,  intaglios  with  oriental  figures,  gold  and 
silver  rings,  some  early  black  ware,  and  sjiecimens  of  the  ces  rude 
in  very  large  quantities,  but  no  other  ancient  money.  He  would 
refer  all  these  objects  to  the  period  between  the  fourth  and  fifth 
centuries  of  Borne.  At  the  same  time,  within  the  walls,  he 
discovered  an  ancient  Etruscan  cemetery,  from  which  he  brought 
to  light  two  large  painted  vases  of  very  archaic  character,  one  of 
them  showing  two  winged  Furies  running,  the  other  the  contest 
of  the  Centaurs  with  the  Lapithse.  In  both  cases  the  figures 
were  i^ainted  bhick,  on  the  natural  colour  of  the  clay,  but  the 
ground  having  been  cut  away,  they  were  left  in  flat  relief — a 
mode  of  decoration  unique  on  figured  vases.'* 

Mused  Pubblico. 

There  were  formerly  two  collections  of  antiquities  at  Arezzo — 
the  Museo  Pubblico,  and  the  Museo  Bacci.  The  latter  w^as  once 
of  great  renown,  but  after  being  much  reduced  by  sales,  it  was 
incorporated  some  3'ears  since  with  the  Public  ]\Iuseum. 

Every  article  in  this  collection  is  labelled  with  the  name  of  the 
spot  on  which  it  was  found — an  admirable  system,  Avhich  greatly 
facilitates  the  studies  of  the  antiquar}',  and  ought  to  be  adopted 
in  ever}'  museum.  It  is  due  to  Professiu'  Fabroni,  the  learned 
Director. 

This  collection  is  stored  in  three  rooms. 

The  first  room  contains  the  bronzes.  Here  are  numerous 
*'  simulacra  Etrusca " — Httle  figures  of  deities  of  all  descrip- 
tions, but  principally  Lares  and  Genii,  many  Etruscan,  some 
Iloman  ;  mirrors  with  mythological  subjects,  imtcrce  with  figured 
handles,  strigils,  fihuhc,  flesh-hooks,  sacrificial  knives,  coins,' 
and  a  varietj^  of  objects  in  the  same  metal.     Bronzes  seem  to 

''  liull.  Inst.  1S6'J,  p.  12. — Gamurrini.  to  Arretiiini.     I\[ore  aii^jropriute  are  those 

*  The  coins  which  are  commonly  attri-  which,    with    the  wheel   on    the   obverse, 

buted  to  Arretium   have  a  wheel  on   the  have  a  vase  on  the  reverse,  cither  a  krater, 

obverse  ;  and  an  anchor  or  the  prow  of  a  or  an  amphora.     Alarchi  and  Tessieri  refer 

ship,    on   the    reverse, — both    equally   in-  tho.se  with  the  former  to  Arretium  Vetus, 

appropriate  emblems  for  a  city  which  was  and  tho.se  with  the   latter  to  the  llomaoi 

further  removed  from  the  .sea  than  any  in  colony  of   Arretium    Fideus.     S.s    Grave, 

Etruria.      Nor  does  the  legend,  in  Etruscan  class.    III.    tav.    5,   6  ;  IJull.    Inst.    1839, 

letters,  "  vps,"  bear  any  obvious  relation  pp.  123-i  ;  Ann.  lust.  1S41,  p.  104. 

VOL.   11.  c  c 


386  AREZZO.  [chap.  lix. 

have  been  particularly  abundant  in  the  Etruscan  tombs  of 
Arretium,  Cortona,  and  I'erugia,  and  bear  a  much  larger  pro- 
portion to  the  x>otterv,  than  in  the  cemeteries  near  the  coast. 

The  celebrated  bronze  Chimera  of  the  Florence  Gallery  was 
found  at  Arezzo  in  1534,  beneath  the  walls  to  the  north-west.'' 
And  the  Minerva  in  the  same  Gallery,  which  is  generally  thought 
to  be  a  work  of  early  Greek  art,  but  may  possibly  be  Etruscan, 
was  also  discovered  on  this  site." 

In  the  Second  Room  is  the  potter}'.  Here  are  two  cases  of 
black  ware,  of  earl}'  and  of  late  date.  ^lany  vases  from 
Sarteano,  of  red  as  well  as  of  black  ware ;  a  can()2)iis  with 
movable  head  and  anns,  from  the  same  place ;  a  covered  jiot 
from  Radicofani,  with  an  Etruscan  inscription,  "Papli  Tarlntia,"** 
which  calls  to  mind  the  celebrated  Ghibelline  bishop,  Guido 
Tai'lati,  whose  tomb,  so  rich  in  storied  reliefs,  fonns  one  of  the 
chief  ornaments  of  Arezzo  Cathedral.  Here  is  also  an  abun- 
dance of  the  local  red  ware,  chiefly  in  fragments,  and  mostly 
found  within  the  walls  of  Arezzo,  with  the  pigments  also,  and 
moulds,  in  yellow  ware  or  in  white  stone,  and  the  instruments  of 
bronze  or  ivory  with  points  of  different  shapes,  with  which  the 
moulds  were  fashioned.  He  who  admires  majolica  may  here 
revel  in  a  splendid  collection  of  plates,  of  which  it  is  not  my 
proAdnce  to  treat. 

On  a  stand  in  the  centre  of  this  room  is  a  vase  of  wonderful 
beauty.  It  is  a  ]:ratcr  of  large  size,  with  handles  rising  above 
the  rim.  Hercules  is  here  represented  combating  the  Amazons. 
In  the  centre  the  son  of  Alcmeua,  with  his  lion-sldn  over  his 
head,  and  wrapt  round  his  left  arm,  Jiolds  out  his  bow  and  arrow 
with  the  same  hand,  while  he  strikes  with  uplifted  club  at  the 
three  Amazons  before  him.  Two  of  them  named  "Lestle" 
and  "  Theaso,"  who  are  fully  armed  like  hoplitiP.,  in  helmets, 
cuirasses,  greaves,  and  with  swords  by  their  sides,  are  aiming 
their  lances  at  the  hero,  while  protecting  themselves  with  their 
Argolic  shields,  one  of  which  shows  a  Gorgon's  head  as  its  device. 
A  third  called  "  Teisityle,"  wears  a  similar  helmet,  but  no 
other  armour,  her  only  weapon  being  a  bow,  with  which  she  is 
speeding  an  arrow  against  the  god.  Her  curiously  formed  quiver 
hangs  at  her  left  side,  suspended  by  a  strap  from  her  neck.     She 

*  Ut  supra,  \<Y>.  74,  S9.  addition  of  a  small  stroke  would  convert 

7   I't  supra,  \)Y).  hQ,  ^7.  the  L  into  cit.     Yet  the  name  of  "  Tarlnia  ' 

^  ilicali  (Mon.  Ined.  p.  3S6,  tav.  LV.  occurs  on  an  Etruscan  urn  in  one  of  the 

0)  reads  it  "Pupli  Tarchntias,"  or  Pulilius  tombs  of  Perugia. 

Tarchuntias.     He  may  be  right,  for  tlie 


c  c  2 


388  AEEZZO.  [chap.  lix. 

is  clad  in  anaxyrides,  a  garment  fitting  closely  to  her  figiu-e,  and 
covering  her  -whole  body,  save  her  head,  hands,  and  feet,  and 
strangely  Landed  in  every  part,  as  shown  in  the  woodcut  on  page 
387.  The  demi-god  has  already  vanquished  one  of  his  iaiv  foes, 
"Kydoime,"  who  having  received  three  fearful  wounds  apparently 
from  his  sword,  which  he  has  returned  to  its  sheath,  is  sinking 
to  the  gi'ound  at  his  feet.  The  shield  on  her  arm  displays  a 
kautltarus  as  its  device,  and  on  her  cuirass  is  the  figui"e  of  a 
small  lion.  Behind  "  Heeaio^es,"  is  a  Greek  called  "  Telamox," 
accoutred  precisely  like  the  three  Amazons,  and  with  a  lion  on 
his  shield,  cutting  down  his  foe  "  Toksis,"  on  whom  he  has 
already  inflicted  three  wounds.  She  is  di-essed  in  the  same 
harlequin  costmne  as  Teisipyle,  but  wears  a  Phrygian  cap 
instead  of  a  helmet.  On  the  reverse  of  the  vase,  four  other 
Amazons  are  rushing  up  to  assist  their  comrades — three  of  them 
armed  lilve  Greeks,  Avith  large  cii'cular  shields,  bearing  devices  of 
a  scorpion,  a  raven,  and  a  kantharus,  and  the  fourth  in  a  banded 
dress,  wearing  a  Phrygian  cap,  and  amied  with  bow  and  arrows. 
The  neck  of  the  vase  shows  a  Bacchic  dance  of  some  twenty 
figures  of  both  sexes.^ 

Beneath  this  vase  is  another  of  the  form  called  stain nos,  repre- 
senting the  departure  of  a  warrior,  and  his  return  from  the  field, 
discovered  at  Alberoro,  nine- miles  from  Arezzo  on  the  road  to 
Fojano,^ — a  beautiful  vase  in  the  Third  Style. 

The  Third  Boom  contains  Etruscan  sepulchral  urns  of  traver- 
tine, alabaster,  or  marble,  mixed  witliBoman  cinerary-  m"ns  of  stone 
with  Latin  inscriptions.  Most  of  the  Etruscan  lu'ns  are  without 
recumbent  figures,  but  all  bear  inscriptions  ;  in  one  which  was 
found  at  Lucignano,  in  the  Val  di  Cliiana,  I  noticed  the  historical 
name  of  Spurinna.-  One  urn  of  late  date,  found  in  the  imme- 
diate vicinity  of  Arezzo  surrounded  by  the  red  Aretine  pottery, 
is  remarkable  for  a  bilingual  inscription.  The  Etruscan  is 
imperfect,  but  seems  to  run — 

V.    CASZI.    C.    CLANS. 

The  Latin  is — 

c.  CASsius.  c.  r. 
SATur.Nixrs. 

'  Tliis  vai?e  is  illustrated  in  Mon.  Inst.  demi-god     presented    liim    with    a    cup. 

VIII.   tav.    6;    and  described  Ann.   Inst.  Peisander,  ap.  Athen.XI.  24.     Cf.  Panotka, 

1864,  pp.  23It-24().     (Otto  Jabn.)  Telaiuon,  Arch.  Zeit.  iv.  p.  107. 
according  to  the  legend,  was  the  companion  '  Bull.  Inst.  1838,  p.  74. 

of  Hercules  in  his  expedition  against  Troy,  *  In  Latin  letters  the  inscription  -n-ould 

and  for  the  great  vulour  he  disiJayeJ  the  be  "l.  sitkixei  .  tetinai." 


CHAP.  Lix.]     GREEK    VASES    AND    ETRUSCAN   URNS.  389 

Siiturninus  llnds  no  equivalent  in  the  Ktruscun.  It  is  singular 
that  the  Yelus  of  the  Etruscan  should  be  translated  by  Cains, 
but  the  same  thing  occius  in  other  bilingual  insci'iptions.'^  A 
few  of  the  urns  bear  reliefs  ;  among  them  one  "with  a  square 
altar  surmounted  by  three  obelisks,  and  with  a  man  or  woman 
*.ni  each  side  of  it,  is  remarkable.  Another  shows  a  marine 
monster  of  unusual  form,  for  it  has  three  human  bodies  united, 
terminating  in  a  pair  of  fish-tails.  The  central  bod}'  flourishes 
an  oar,  the  outer  ones  appear  to  be  hurling  rocks.  There  is  also 
an  Etruscan  lion  couchant,  in  stone. 

In  a  case  in  this  room  are  displayed  a  few  urns  of  terra-cotta, 
bearing  the  usual  subjects  of  the  Tlieban  Brothers,  Cadmus,  Sec. 
One,  however,  shows  an  arched  doorway,  the  gate  of  Orcus,  on 
each  side  of  which  a  winged  Fury,  with  torch  and  buskins,  sits 
upon  a  rock,  in  an  attitude  of  expectation  ;  one  of  them  having 
just  extinguished  her  torch.  Here  are  some  portrait-heads  in 
the  same  material ;  and  numerous  little  figures  of  babies,  votive 
offerings,  all  from  the  same  mould. 

In  the  centre  of  the  room  is  a  beautiful  (Uiiplinvd,  in  the  Third 
Style,  with  a  brilliant  polish — from  Casalta.  "  Pelops,"  crowned 
with  laurel,  and  wearing  a  cldamjjs  decorated  with  fiowers,  is 
driving  a  ([Uddrlfja  at  full  speed,  his  hair  and  drapery  streaming 
behind  him  in  the  wind.  His  bride,  "Ippodamea,"  whom  he 
has  won  in  the  race,  stands  before  him  in  the  car.  ]Myrtilus 
seems  to  lie  beneath  the  horses'  feet.*" 

Another  vase  represents  the  death  of  (Enomaus.  A  qti(((]i-liia 
is  driven,  at  full  gallop,  by  the  treacherous  Myrtilus,  by  whose 
side  stood  his  lord  in  complete  armour,  but  he  has  just  relaxed 
his  hold  on  the  anUjx,  or  front  rail  of  the  chariot,  and  is  falling 
out  of  it  backwards.  A  tripod  on  a  Doric  column  behind  the 
car,  marks  the  goal. 

It  has  been  stated  that  there  were  three  Roman  colonies  of  the 
name  of  Arretium,  distinguished  by  tlie  epithets  of  Yetus, 
Fidens,  and  Julium.  The  first  Avas  evidently  the  Etruscan  city, 
and  has  generally  been  identified  with  Arezzo  ;  the  other  two  are 
supposed  to  be  in  the  neighbourhood,  but  their  sites  are  not 
satisfactorily  determined.''  I  am  persuaded,  however,  that  Arezzo 
does  not  occup}'  the  original  site,  though  probably  that  of  one  of 

•'•  Vt  supra,  p.  306.      See  also   Lanzi,  ••  Ann.  Inst.  1S64,  pp.  83-94  ;  Mon.  Inst. 

II.  p.  342;  Bull.  Inst.  1833,  p.  51  ;  1834,  VIII.  tav.  3.    Kekulc  takes  this  fragmentary 

p.  140;  Cains  is  also  used  as  the  equivalent  figure  for  a  dolphin, 

of  Larth.  ^  Cluver  (II.  p.  571)  did  not  attempt  to 


390  AEEZZO.  [chap.  lix. 

the  colonies.  Its  position,  for  the  greater  part  on  the  very  level 
of  the  plain,  only  rising  a  little  at  the  northern  end,''  is  so  unlike 
that  of  Etruscan  cities  in  general,  as  to  raise,  at  the  first  glance, 
strong  doubts  of  its  antiquity  in  my  mind.  Ever}'  other  Etruscan 
town  in  this  district  is  on  a  lofty  height — Fiesole,  Yolterra, 
Cortona,  Perugia,  Chiusi — wh}'  should  Arretium  alone  be  in  the 
plain  ?  Moreover,  the  discovery  of  numerous  Etruscan  tombs 
and  sepulchral  objects  on  various  spots  witliin  the  walls  of  Arezzo, 
not  only  on  the  low  ground  near  the  railwa}'  station,  as  already 
stated,  but  also  on  the  height  called  Poggio  del  Sole,  and  again 
on  that  of  the  Duomo  Yecchio,  seems  decisive  of  the  fact.  Signor 
Gamm'rini,  who  records  these  discoveries,  is  nevertheless  of  opinion 
that  the  actual  town  occupies  the  Etruscan  site,  and  to  reconcile 
these  facts  Avitli  his  view,  is  induced  to  suppose  that  the  former 
hill,  at  least,  was  originally  outside  the  city-walls."  In  this  case 
I  cannot  bow  to  his  authority,  for  all  analog}'  is  opposed  to  the 
supi)osition  that  Etruscan  Arretium  stood  on  the  level  of  the 
plain.  Necessity  did  not  here,  as  at  Pisa,  dictate  such  a  site, 
for  there  are  high  grounds  suitable  for  a  city  in  the  immediate 
vicinity. 

This  view  is  confirmed  by  the  discovery,  of  late  years,  of  the 
walls  of  an  ancient  city  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Arezzo, — dis- 
covery, I  say,  because  though  within  sight  of  the  town,  and 
familiar  perhaps  for  ages  to  the  inhabitants,  they  were  unheeded, 
and  no  one  had  made  them  known  to  the  world.^  They  lie  two 
or  three  miles  to  the  south-east,  on  a  height  called  Poggio  di  San 
Cornelio,  or  Castel  Secco,  a  barren  eminence  of  no  great  eleva- 
tion, yet  much  higher  than  Arezzo,  Avhose  level  summit  is  so 
strewn  with  fragments  of  rock  and  pottery,  as  scarcely  to  nourish 
a  weed.  On  the  brow  of  the  hill,  to  the  north-west,  is  a  fragment 
of  ancient  walling  of  regulnr  masonry .°  More  to  the  west  are 
traces    of    a   gate.     Another   portion    of  the    walls    has    narrow 

assign  a  site  to  either.     Holstenius  (Aniiot.  ^  Rcpctti  aiiiiears  to  have  Leeu  the  first 

ad  Cluvei",   p.   72),    however,    jjlaced   the  to  make  them  kuown  in  1833  (I.  p.  585). 

Julian  colony  at  Subbiano   on  the  Arno,  Even  Alessi,  who  in  the  fifteenth  century 

some  ten  miles  noi-th  of  Arezzo,  anil  the  made  diligent  search  for  local  antiquities, 

Fidens   at   Castiglion   Florentine,    on   the  makes  no  mention  of  them  in  his  Cronaca 

road  to  Cortona.     He  is  followed  in  this  by  d'  Arezzo,  a  MS.  in  the  IJiblioteca  lliccar- 

Cramer,  I.  p.  213.     Dempster  (II.  p.  423)  diana,  at  Florence.      Micali,  Mon.  Ined.  p. 

jjlaced  the  Fidens  at  Montepulciano.  410. 

^  The  height  of  the  upper  part  of  the  '■'  In  one  part  this  masonry  is  as  high  as 

city  above  the  lower  is  said  to  lie  74  iiY((T/(/,  12   feet,    but  in  genei-al    it   scarcely  rises 

or  142  feet  (Kepetti,  I.   p.   112);  but  it  above  the  ground.     The  blocks  are  2  or  3 

does  not  appear  nearly  so  much.  feet  long,  by  18  inches  high. 

^  Bull.  Inst.  1S(J3,  p.  .''»4;  1869,  p.  72. 


CHAP.  Lix.J     ANCIENT    WALLS    AT    SAN    COENELIO.  391 

buttresses,  oiiW  thirteen  feet  apart.  But  on  the  southern  side  of 
the  hill  the  wall  rises  nearly  thii-t}'  feet,  and  extends  for  two 
hundred,  having  eight  massive  buttresses  at  short  intervals, 
seven  or  eight  feet  wide,  and  projecting  about  three  feet.  They 
might  be  taken  for  towers,  were  it  not  for  the  narrow  interval  of 
fifteen  feet  between  them.  Both  walls  and  buttresses  fall  back 
slightly  from  the  perpendicular.  The  masonr}'  is  horizontal; 
and  though  perhaps  originally  neatly  cut  and  fitted,  it  has 
suffered  so  much  from  the  weather,  and  the  rock  is  naturally  so 
friable,  that  it  presents  as  rude  an  appearance  as  the  towers  in 
the  Cucumella  at  A'ulci,  which  were  not  intended  to  see  the  light 
of  day.^ 

The  circumstances  under  which  I  visited  this  site  did  not 
permit  me  to  make  a  plan  of  it,  or  to  determine  its  precise 
dimensions.  But  Signor  Gamurrini  assures  me  it  is  of  very 
small  size,  square  or  nearly  so,  much  too  limited  in  extent  for 
the  Etruscan  city  of  Arretium."^ 

These  walls  are  very  peculiar;  as  regards  the  buttresses,  unique 
in  Etruria.  Tliej'  have  the  appearance  of  great  antiquit}-. 
Inghirami  took  them  to  be  Boman,  and  to  belong  to  one  of  the 
two  colonies  of  Arretium,  and  thought  the  rudeness  of  the 
masonry  miglit  be  the  result  of  hast}'  construction.  But  he  did 
not  form  his  opinion  from  ocular  inspection.  To  me  this  seems 
more  likely  to  be  an  Etruscan  than  a  Boman  site.'"  It  were 
contrary  to  all  analogy  to  suppose  that  Arezzo  was  the  original 
site,  and  that  this,  so  much  stronger  by  nature,  was  of  subsequent 
settlement.     Tliis  was  just  the  position  that  would  have  been 

'  The  size  of  the  blocks  is  not  extra-  cannot  say  if  tliey  retain  vestiges  of  ancient 

oi'dinary.     One  which  was  8  ft.  2  in.  long,  habitation.     For  further  notices  of  this  site 

by  1  ft.   8  in.  high,  was  imusually  large.  see  Bull.  Inst.  1S37,  p.  96. 
But  the  tendency  of  the  stone  lo  split  at  ^  Miiller,  who  visited  these  ruins  in  1839 

right  angles,  makes  it  sometimes  difficult  .at  Micali's  suggestion,  regarded  them   as 

to  determine  the  size.  Etruscan  and  the  remains  of  the  original 

^  He  tells  me  that  within  liis  memory  it  city.     Micali,  however,  sets  no  value  on  his 

was  entirely  surrounded  by  walls.      Repetti  opinion  in  the  latter  particular,  and  con- 

(I.  p.  585)  says  it  is  only  1240  Irarcia  in  siders  them  to  belong  to  an  advanced  or 

circuit;  Micali  (Tslon.  Ined.  p.  410)  calls  it  look-out  post  of  Arretium,  which  he  identi- 

1300   hraccia,    or  less  than   half   a  mile,  lies  with  Arezzo,  or  to  an  outwork  detached 

round;    and   sa3-s  it  has  the  form  of  an  from  the  city.     Yet  he  admits  them  to  bo 

irregular  ellipse.     To  me  it  appeared   of  of  Etruscan  construction.     Mon.  Ined.  pp. 

larger  size.     The  hill  may  be  but  a  portion  411-413.     He  gives  a  plan  of  the  bastions 

of  the  ancient  site,  for  it  is  connected  with  and   a   view  of  the  miisonry  (tav.    LX.). 

high    grounds     of     considerable     extent,  Repetti  (I.  p.  5S5)  also  hints  that  this  may 

apparently  capable   of  holding    a  city  of  be  the  Acropolis  of  Arretium,  but  says  no 

first-rate  importance.     But  having  had  no  excavations  liave  ever  been  made  to  deter- 

opportunity  of  examining  these  heights,  I  mine  tlu^  fact. 


392  AEEZZO.  [chap.  lix. 

cliosen  by  the  Etniseans  ;  tJtat,  by  the  Komaiis.  The  cities  of 
the  former  were  founded  at  a  time  when  the  inhabitants  had  to 
struggle  for  existence  with  neighbouring  tribes,  warlike,  restless, 
ever  encroaching — semibarbarians  who  knew  no  law  but  that  of 
sword  and  lance.  It  was  necessary  for  them  to  select  sites  where 
nature  would  add  to  the  strength  of  their  fortifications.  But 
with  the  Romans,  the  case  was  very  difterent.  At  the  time  the 
latter,  at  least,  of  the  two  colonies  of  Arretium  was  founded,  they 
were  masters  not  onl}'"  of  all  Itah'  but  of  the  greater  part  of  the 
known  world.  They  liad  nothing  to  fear  from  foreign  invasion, 
and  it  was  enough  for  them  to  surround  their  cities  with  fortifica- 
tions, without  selecting  sites  which,  though  adding  to  their 
strength,  would  involve  a  great  sacrifice  of  convenience.  This 
was  their  practice  much  earlier  than  the  establishment  of  these 
Arretine  colonies,  as  is  shown  b}'  the  instances  of  Yolsinii  and 
Falerii,  whose  population,  about  the  time  of  the  First  Punic  AVar, 
was  removed  from  the  original  city  on  the  heights  to  a  new  one 
in  the  plain.  This  may  have  been  the  case  also  with  Arretium.''^ 
Or  if  the  original  town  were  not  deserted,  there  is  every  ground 
for  concluding  that  the  fresh  colony-  was  established  on  a  no  less 
convenient  site.  However  this  be,  there  can  be  no  doubt  that 
the  Etruscan  city,  like  all  its  fellows,  stood  on  an  eminence,  and 
was  fortified  by  nature  as  well  as  by  art.^  "Whether  it  occupied  this 
Poggio  di  San  Cornelio,  or  some  of  the  neighbouring  heights,  I  do 
not  pretend  to  determine;  but  hesitate  not  to  assert  my  conviction 
that  it  cannot  have  stood  on  the  site  of  modern  Arezzo.  In  fiict  not 
only  is  all  evidence  of  identity  wanting,  but  history  is  opposed  to 
the  current  opinion,  fur  it  is  known  that  at  least  on  three  several 
occasions  have  the  Avails  of  Arezzo    been    enlarged  ;  *'  and  it  is 

*  In  the  cases  of  Falerii  and  Yolsinii,  the  completely  ilestroyed  the  ancient  walls,  but 
fact  is  not  mentioned  by  one  of  the  earlier  as  this  rests  on  tradition,  rather  than  ou 
historians  of  Rome,  only  Ly  Zonaras,  a  history,  it  is  subject  to  doubt.  Yet  it  is 
Byzantine  ■wTiter  of  late  date.  The  original  certain  that  the  walls  of  the  city  were 
town  of  Arretium,  however,  was  still  extant  destroyed  in  the  year  1111  l)y  the  Emperor 
in  Pliny's  day;  1>ut  it  may  have  been  in-  Henry  Y.,  and  were  not  restored  for  more 
habited,  like  Falerii  and  Yeii,  by  a  fresh  than  a  century,  being  in  l"22t)  rebuilt  with 
colony.  a  more  ample  circuit.     These  were  replaced 

*  Silius  Italicus,  a  writer  of  more  accu-  by  a  fresh  and  still  more  extended  line, 
racy  than  imagination  (Plin.  epist.  III.  7  commenced  in  1276,  and  completed  in  1322 
— scribebat  carmina  niajorc  cunl  quam  by  Guido  Tarlati,  Bishop  of  I'ietramala. 
ingenio),  in  .speaking  of  the  Second  Punic  And  lastly  the  walls  were  rebuilt  and 
\Var,  notices  "  the  lofty  walls  of  Arretium  "  altered,  from  1549  to  156S,  byCosimoL, 
(Y.  122)— a  description  which,  ]iy kijpnll<if/e,  who  erected  the  bastions  and  curtains  which 
pro] lably  refers  ratlier  to  the  site  of  the  city  meet  the  eye  at  the  present  day.  Ilepetti, 
than  to  the  cliaracter  of  the  fortifications.  I.  p.  114. 

'  Totila,  the   Yandal,    is   said   to   have 


CHAP.  Lix.]    AEEZZO    XOT    THE    ETEUSCAN    AREETIUM. 


393 


quite  impossible,  supposing  the  modern  town  to  occupy  the  site 
of  the  Etruscan  city,  that  the  original  site,  which  in  that  case 
must  have  been  the  circumscribed  height  on  which  the  Duomo 
stands,  could  have  held  a  first-rate  city,  like  the  Arretiuni  of  the 
Etruscans. 

In  a  word,  there  is  every  reason  to  believe  that  the  illustrious 
•cit}'-  of  Ai'ezzo  does  not  occup}-  the  site  of  the  Etruscan  Arretiuni, 
but  of  one  of  the  Roman  colonies  of  the  same  name  ; "  and  as  all 
analogy  marks  the  town  on  the  Poggio  di  San  Gornelio  to  be  of 
earlier  date  than  this  in  the  plain,  the  question  turns  upon  that 
town.  If  it  be  proved  an  Etruscan  site,"^  Arezzo  may  be  the 
Arretiuni  Fidens :  but  if  the  town  on  the  heights  cannot  be  identi- 
fied with  the  original  city,  it  must  be  the  Fidens,  and  Arezzo  the 
later  colony  of  Arretiuni  Julium ;  and  the  site  of  the  Etruscan 
citv  has  vet  to  be  discovered. 


"  That  Arezzo  occupies  a  site  that  was 
once  Roman  is  aliundantly  proved  l)y  its 
extant  remains.  The  fragments  of  brick- 
work around  the  higher  iiart  of  the  city, 
may  belong  to  the  Roman  walls,  which,  if 
this  be  the  site  of  the  Julian  colony,  are 
those  mentioned  by  Frontinus,  —  "  Arre- 
tium,  muro  ducta  colonia  lege  Triumvirali." 
Or  the  fragments  of  isodomon  ma.soniy, 
which  Signer  Gamurrini  mentions  as 
existing  at  various  spots  ■nithin  the  actual 
walls  (see  p.  3S2),  may  be  portions  of  the 
earlier  fortifications  raised  by  the  Aretini 
Fidentes.     Plin.  III.  8. 

^  It  may  lie  urged  as  an  objection  to  this 
being  the  Etruscan  site,  that  the  masoni-y 
is  of  stone,  whereas  the  ancient  walls  were 
of  brick.  I5ut  we  have  no  positive  assur- 
ance that  the  brick  walls,   mentioned  by 


A'itnivius  and  Pliny,  were  of  Etruscan 
construction.  If  on  the  cajitui-e  of  the  city 
by  the  Romans,  a  fresh  town  was  built,  as 
was  the  case  with  Falcrii  and  Volsinii,  it 
may  have  been  that  which  had  the  walls  of 
brick  ;  for  as  nearly  three  centuries  inter- 
vened to  the  time  of  Vitruvius,  they  would 
have  been  entitled  to  his  designation  of 
"ancient."  "Were  it  even  certain  that 
Vitruvius  and  Pliny  refer  to  the  Etruscan 
walls,  it  may  be  that  in  these  ruins  we  see 
but  a  small  portion  of  the  ancient  fortifica- 
tions, and  just  that  portion  which  from  the 
massiveness  of  the  masonry  has  escaped 
destruction.  If  the  brickwork  were  not 
strongly  cemented  it  would  soon  be  pulled 
to  pieces  by  the  peasantrj-,  for  the  sake  of 
the  materials. 


SATYRS    AND    HARPT,    FROM    THE   ETRUSCAN    LAMP,    CORTOSA    MLSEU3I. 


CHAPTER    LX. 


COETOXA.— COi^TO.Y.l. 

Coi-j-thum,  terrasque  i-equirat 
Ausonias ! — Virgil. 

Clara  fait  Sparte  ;  magnas  vigiicre  Myccnw  ; 

Mle  solum  Sparte  est ;  altas  cecidere  Mycenie. — 0\id. 

Ti?AVELLER,  thou  art  approaching  Cortoiia !  Dost  thou 
reverence  age — that  fuhiess  of  3'ears  Avhich,  as  Phny  says,  ''  in 
man  is  venerable,  in  cities  sacred?"  Here  is  that  -wliich  demands 
th}'  reverence.  Here  is  a  city,  compared  to  which  liome  is  but 
of  yesterday — to  which  most  other  cities  of  ancient  renown  are 
fresh  and  green.  Thou  mayst  have  wandered  far  and  wide 
through  Ital}' — nothing  hast  thou  seen  more  venerable  than 
Cortona.  Ere  the  'days  of  Hector  and  Achilles,  ere  Troy  itself 
arose — Cortona  w^as.      Ou   that   bare    and   lofty   height,    Avhose 


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393 


CORTOXA. 


[ClIAP.    LX. 


towered  crest  liolds  ccnnmuiiioii  ^vith  the  floud,  dwelt  the 
lieaven-honi  Dardanus,  ere  he  left  Italy  to  found  the  Trojan 
race ;  and  on  that  mount  reigned  his  father  Corvthus,  and 
there  he  was  laid  in  the  tomh.^  Such  is  the  ancient  legend,  and 
wherefore  gainsay  it?  Away  with  doubts! — pay  thy  lull  tribute 
of  homage — acceptam  iiarce  rnovcrc  fidcm  !  Hast  thou  respect  to 
fallen  greatness  ? — Yon  solemn  city  was  once  the  proudest  and 
mightiest  in  the  land,  the  metropolis  of  l-]truria,  and  now — but 
enter  its  gates  and  look  around. 

From  the  railway  station  it  is  half  an  hour's  drive  to  the  town, 
for  the  ascent  is  steep  and  toilsome.  Nor  when  the  gates  are 
reached  is  the  labour  over,  though  the  vehicle  will  take  j'ou  to 
the  "  Locanda  Nazionale,"  a  ver}-  decent  hospii'inm,  where  you 
Avill  meet  with  cleanliness,  attention,  and  very  moderate  charges. 
If  3'ou  would  see  Cortona,  you  have  still  a  long  climb  to  the 
upper  end  of  the  town ;  for  Cortona  is  not,  like  i'iesole  and 
Volten'a,  spread  over  the  summit  of  the  mountain,  but  hangs 
suspended  from  its  peak,  down  its  western  slope.  Steep,  winding, 
narrow  and  gloomy  streets,  sombre  rather  than  shabb}'  houses, 
here    and    there    even    showing    traces    of    medi<eval    grandeur, 


'  This  is  the  Italian  tradition.  It  is 
because  Dardanus,  the  founder  of  Troj%  was 
Lelieved  to  have  come  from  Cortona  that 
Virgil  (J3n.  I.  3S0)  makes  ^neas  say — 

Italian!    qusero    jjatriam,    et  genus    ab 
Jove  sumirio. 

Servius  (in  loc.)  thus  explains  it,  and 
.shows  that  elsewhere  (^n.  YII.  122)  JEneas 
is  made  to  say  of  Italy — 

Hie  domiis,  luec  patria  est. 

cf.  ^n.  III.  ler  ;  YII.  200,  ct  scq.  Tiie 
original  name  of  Cortona  was  Corj-thu.s,  or 
Corithus,  so  called  from  its  Itcroscponipnos, 
Corythus,  the  reputed  father  of  Dardanus. 
Tlie  legend  states  that  Corj-thus,  who  ruled 
also  over  other  cities  of  Italy,  was  buried 
on  tills  mount.  His  wife  Electra  bore  a  son 
to  Jupiter,  called  Dardanus,  who,  being 
driven  out  of  Italy,  went  to  Piirygia  and 
founded  Troy.  Another  tradition  records 
that  Dardanus,  repulsed  in  an  equestrian 
combat  with  the  Aborigines,  lost  his  helmet, 
and  rallying  his  men  to  recover  it,  gained 
the  victory  ;  to  celebrate  which  he  built  a 
city  on  the  spot,  and  named  it  from  his 
helmet — Kopvs.  A  third  legend  refers  the 
origin  of  the  city  to  Corythus,  son  of  Paris 
and  Oiluone.     Virg.  iEn.    111.    107;    VII. 


206-211  ;  IX.  10  ;  X.  719  ;  Serv.  in  loc. 
and  ad  S.\\.  I.  380  ;  III.  15,  104,  170. 
All  this  belongs  to  the  purely  mj-thical 
period,  yet  may  be  received  as  evidence  of 
tlie  very  remote  antiquity  of  this  city. 

It  is  generally  believed  that  Corythus 
was  really  the  ancient  name  of  Cortona, 
but  Miiller  (Etrusk.  IV.  4,  5)  questions 
this,  and  thinks  tiiat  it  is  a  mere  Greek 
tradition,  arbitrarily  referred  to  that  city. 
Yet  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  it  was  so 
regarded  by  the  Romans.  Besides  the 
evidence  of  Virgil  and  his  commentator, 
the  identity  is  made  perfectly  clear  in  a 
passage  of  Silius  Italicus  (Y.  122)  which 
Niebuhr  (I.  p.  33)  pronounced  decisive — 

Panius    nunc    occupet  altos 
Arret!     muros,     Coj-ythi     nunc     diruat 

arcem  ? 
Hinc  Clusina  petat  ?  postremo  ad  mania 
Romte,  &c. 
Tlie  poet  uses  the  ancient  name  for  the 
sake  of  the  verse,  as  elsewhere  (IV.  721) — 
sedemque  ab   origine  prisci 
Sacratam  Cor\"tlii. 
There  is  no  reason  to  believe  that  it  was 
retained  to  Annibal's  time,  to  which  the 
IJoem  refers,  much  less  to  his  own. 


CHAP.  Lx.]  AXCIEXT    AXD    MODERN    CORTONA. 


397 


tracts  of  corn,  and  garden  ground,  and  naked  rock,  Avitliin  the 
walls — such  is  modern  Cortona.  She  has  made  progress  during 
tlie  past  generation,  and  is  no  longer  to  be  accused  of  filthy,  ill- 
l)aved  streets,  nor  of  mean  and  squalid  houses. 

Modern  Cortona  retains  the  site  of  the  ancient  city,  which  was 
of  oblong  fonn,  and  about  two  miles  in  circumference.  The 
modern  walls  are  in  most  parts  based  on  the  ancient,  though  at 
the  higher  end  of  the  city  the  latter  made  a  much  wider  circuit.- 
They  may  be  traced  in  fragments  more  or  less  preserved  for  a 


AXCIEXT    WALLS   OF   CORTONA. 


great  jiart  round  the  city;  and  are  composed  of  rectangular 
blocks  of  great  size,  arranged  without  much  regularit}',  though 
with  more  regard  to  horizontalit}'  and  distinct  courses  than  is 
observable  in  the  walls  of  Volten-a  or  Populonia,  and  often 
joined  with  great  nicetv,  like  the  masonry  of  Fiesole.  At  the 
lower  part  of  the  city,  they  stretch  for  a  long  distance  in  an 
unbroken  line  beneath  the  modern  fortifications.^     But  the  finest 


■  Micali's  Thin  (Ant.  Pop.  Ital.  tav. 
VI.)  makes  Cortona  about  10,000  feet  in 
circumference,  but  taking  into  account  the 
wider  circuit  of  the  ancient  walls  round  the 
Fortress,  which  he  has  not  indicated,  the 
city  cannot  have  been  less  than  two  miles 
round.  Thus  it  would  be  scarcely  larger 
than  Ruselhe,  and  among  the  smallest  of 
the  cities  of  the  Confederation. 


•^  The  finest  portions  at  this  end  are 
about  Porta  Colonia  on  the  north  of  tlie 
city,  where  the  blocks  are  from  9  to  13 
feet  in  length  by  more  than  3  feet  in 
beiglit,  hewn  to  a  smooth  surface  and  very 
neatly  joined  ;  andabout  Porta  S.  Domenioo 
on  the  south,  where  they  mea-sure  12  or  14 
feet  by  2.  One,  at  the  height  of  ten  or 
twelve  feet  from  the  ground,  is  10  feet  by  5. 


398  CORTOXA.  [chap.  lx. 

relic  of  tliis  regular  masoniy  at  Cortona,  and  perhaps  in  all  Italy, 
is  at  a  spot  called  Terra  Mozza,  outside  the  Fortress,  at  the 
highest  part  of  the  city,  where  is  a  fragment,  one  hundred  and 
twenty  feet  in  length,  composed  of  blocks  of  enormous  magnitude. 
A  portion  of  it  is  shown  in  the  woodcut  on  the  preceding  page.^ 

The  masonry  is  of  a  greenish  sandstone,  very  like  that  of 
Fiesole,  in  parts  Haky  and  brittle,  but  generally  very  hard  and 
comjjact ;  it  is  sometimes  hewn  to  a  smooth  surface,  at  others 
left  with  a  natural  face  ;  in  no  part  is  it  cemented,  though  the 
blocks  are  often  so  closely  fitted  together  as  to  appear  so,  not 
admitting  even  a  penknife  to  be  thrust  between  them.  The  joints 
are  often  diagonal,  and  small  pieces  are  inserted  to  fill  up  de- 
ficiencies, as  in  the  walls  of  Fiesole,  to  which  in  every  respect 
this  masonry  bears  a  close  resemblance,  though  more  massive, 
and  on  the  whole  more  regular.^ 

These  walls  bear  evidence  of  very  high  antiquity,  certainly  not 
inferior  to  those  of  Volterra  and  Fiesole.  That  they  are  as 
earl}'  as  the  Etruscan  domination  cannot  be  doubted  ;  nay,  it  is 
probable  they  are  of  prior  date,  either  raised  by  the  Pclasgi,  or 
by  the  yet  earlier  possessors  of  the  land.^ 

But  this  leads  us  to  consider  the  history  of  Cortona.  First, 
however,  let  us  mount  to  the  summit  of  the  hill,  and  take  a  seat 
on  the  cA-press-shaded  terrace  in  front  of  the  Church  of  Sta 
Margherita.  Should  it  be  the  hour  of  sunrise,  the  scene  will  not 
lose  interest  or  beauty.  A  warm  rosy  tint  ruddying  the  eastern 
skv,  and  extending  round  LaK  the  horizon,  proclaims  the  coming 
day.  The  landscape  is  in  deep  gloom — dark  mountain-tops 
alone  are  seen  around.  Even  after  the  sun  is  up,  and  the  rosy- 
red  has  brightened  into  gold,  the  scene  is  purpled  and  obscured 
by  the  shadow  of  the  momitains  to  the  east.  But  presenth'  a  ray 
wakens  the  distant  snow  of  ]\Ionte  Cetona,  and  sparkles  on  the 

"•  In  one  part  it  rises  to  the  LeigLt  of  within  the  Porta  INFontanina,  -where  the 
nine  courses,  or  about  30  feet  high,  but  the  blocks  are  10  or  12  feet  in  length,  but 
general  height  is  about  15  or  16  feet,  which  shallow,  with  smaller  pieces  in  the  inter- 
is  that  of  the  fragment  delineated.  The  stices.  Here  the  line  of  the  ancient  wall 
blocks  vary  from  2  ft.  6  in.  to  5  ft.  in  was  rather  within  that  of  the  modern,  as 
height,  and  from  6  or  7  feet  to  ]  1  or  12  in  shown  in  the  Plan. 

lenf'th ;    and  sometimes  are  as  much  or  ^  According  to  Dionysius  (I.  c.  20),  the 

more  in  depth,  as  the  smallest  end  is  seen  city  was  well  fortified  in  the  time  of  tlie 

in  the  face  of  the  wall.     Here  as  at  Vol-  Umbri,  and  the  Pelasgi  only  took  it  from 

terra  and  Ruselhc,  the  smallest  blocks  are  them  by  a  sudden  assault.     Lepsius  regards 

often  below  to  fill  up  the  inequalities  of  the  existing  walls  as  the  work  of  the  Pelasgi 

the  "Tound,  and  make  a-  level  basement  for  (Tyrrhen.  Pelas.  p.  10)  ;  and  there  can  be 

the  larger.  little  doubt  tiiat  they  have  at  least  that 

*  The    principal    variety  observable   is  antiquity.     Cf.  Miiller,  Etrusk.  I.  3,  1. 


CHAP.  Lx.]    AXCIEXT  FOETTFICATIONS  AND  HISTOEY.  399 

vet  loftier  peak  of  Aminta  beyond  it.  Then  tlie  dark  mass  of 
]Montepulciano,  rising  on  the  further  side  of  the  wide  pLiin,  like 
n  second  Cortona,  is  brightened  into  life.  Anon  the  towers, 
battlements,  and  roofs  of  the  town  at  our  feet  are  touched  with 
gold — and  ere  long  the  fiiir  face  of  the  Thrasymene  in  the  south 
bursts  into  smiles — and  the  beams  roll  over  the  mountain-tops  in 
a  torrent,  and  flood  the  vast  plain  beneath,  disclosing  regions  of 
com  and  wood,  of  vines  and  olives,  with  man}^  a  glittering  farm 
and  village  and  town — a  map  of  fertility  and  luxuriance,  in  which 
the  eye  recognizes  Castiglione,  Chiusi,  La  Pieve,  and  other 
familiar  spots  m  the  southern  horizon. 

The  origin  of  Cortona,  it  has  been  said,  is  very  ancient — so 
remote  indeed  that  it  is  necessarily  involved  in  obscurity."  The 
legend  that  makes  it  the  city  of  Dardanus  and  elder  sister  of 
Troy  has  already  been  mentioned.  Tradition  asserts  that  long 
ere  the  establishment  of  the  Etruscan  State,  Cortona  was  "  great 
and  flourishing  " —  "  a  memorable  cit}'  of  the  Umbrians,"  ^ — and 
that  it  was  taken  from  them  by  the  Pelasgi  and  Aborigines,  who 
used  it  as  a  bulwark  against  them,  seeing  it  was  well  fortified,  and 
surrounded  by  good  pastures.''  Subsequentl}-,  with  the  rest  of 
the  land,  it  fell  to  the  Etruscans,^  and  under  them  it  appears  to 
have  been  a  second  metro^Dolis — to  have  been  to  the  interior  and 
mountainous  part  of  the  land  what  Tarqumii  was  to  the  coast." 
Even  under  the  Etruscan  domination  it  seems,  like  Falerii,  to 
liave  retained  much  of  its  Pelasgic  character,  for  Herodotus  says 

"i  This   obscurity  is    increased    by  the  Etrascan  city  can  be  here  intended.  Etrusk. 

ilifierent  names    by   which  the   city  was  IV.  4,  1. 

known — Corythus,    Croton,    Crotona,   Cyr-  '^  Dion.  Hal.  I.  c.  20,  26. 

tonion,  Creston,   GortjiiiBa,  Cothornia,   or  '•'  Dion.  Hal.  I.  c.  20.     cf.  Hellanicus  of 

Cortona.      The   latter  name,    if  we   may  Lesbos  ap.  eund.  I.   c.    28.     The   Pelasgic 

believe  Dionysius  (I.  c.  26),  was  only  given  character  of  Cortona  is  also  intimated  by 

when  the  city  was  made  a  Roman  colony,  the  legend,  which  represents  Jasius,  son  of 

not  long  before  his  day,  taking  the  place  of  Corythus,    king   of   this   city,    settling   in 

tlie  old  appellation,  Croton.      Of  Corythus,  Samothrace,   when   his   bi-other   Dardanus 

we   have   already   spoken.      Cj-rtonios,    or  founded  Troy.     Serv.  ad  Mn.  III.  15,  167  ; 

Cjrtonion,  is  the  name  used  by  Polybius  VII.  207. 

(III.    82),   and   Stephanus  of  Byzantium.  ^  Dion.  H;il.  I.  c.  20. 

Creston  is  found  only  in   Herodotus,  and  ^  This  seems  to  be  implied  by  the  desig- 

will     be    further     mentioned     presently.  nation  of  it  by  Silius  Italicus  (VIII.  474) 

Gortyna^a  is  used  by  Lj'cophron  (Cass.  806),  "superbi  Tarchontis  domus."     Stephanus 

and  by  Theopompus  (ap.  Tzatz.  ad  Lycoph.  of   Byzantium    (r.    KpoTwv)  calls  it   "the 

loc.    cit.^,   who   records   a    tradition   that  metropolis  of  Etruria,  and  the  third  city  of 

Ulysse?,  called  by  the  Ktruscans  Nanos  (cf.  Italy."     Lepsius  is  of  opinion  that  this  is 

Lycoph.  1244  ;  Tzetzes  in  loc),  siiled  to  ako   proved  by  its  coins,    for  the   entire 

l-;truria,  took  up  his  abode  at  Gortynnea,  system    of    Etruscan,    indeed    of    ancient 

and  there  died.     This,  says  Midler,  is  the  Italian    coinage,    proceeds    from    Cortona. 

Ilellcnised  foim  of  Cortona,  for  no  other  Tyrrhen,  Pelasg.  p.  10. 


400  COETOXA.  [chap.  lx. 

that  in  liis  ilay  it  was  still  inhabited  by  a  Pelasgic  population, 
speaking  their  peculiar  language,  unintelligible  to  the  people 
around  them,  though  identical  with  that  of  PLicia  on  the  Helles- 
pont, another  colony  of  the  Pelasgi.^  Xiebuhr  suggests  that 
Cortona  may  have  continued  distinct  from  the  Etniscans,  as  he 
thinks  Falerii  was.^  But  that  she  was  included  in  the  great 
Etruscan  Confederation,  and  one  of  the  Twelve  chief  cities,  is 
unquestionable.  Liv}-  describes  her  as  one  of  the  '*  heads  of 
Etruria,"  in  the  year  of  Piome  444,  when  with  Perusia  and 
AiTetium  she  was  forced  to  sue  for  peace.'  It  is  singular  that 
this  is  the  only  record  we  fuid  of  Cortona  during  the  days  of 
Etrascan  independence.  She  is  referred  to  again  incidentally  in 
the  Second  Punic  AVar  when  Hannibal  marched  beneath  her 
walls  and  laid  waste  the  land  between  the  city  and  the  Thras}'- 
mene.*'  Yet  when  a  few  j-ears  later  all  the  principal  cities  of 
Etruria  sent  supplies  for  Scipio's  fleet,  Cortona  is  not  mentioned 
among  them ; '  which  is  not  a  little  strange,  as  but  a  century 
before  she  had  been  one  of  the  chief  in  the  land.  Yet  she  did 
not  cease  to  exist,  for  we  find  her  mentioned  as  a  Roman  colonj' 
under  the  Empire.^  AVhat  was  her  fate  in  the  subsequent  con- 
vulsions of  Italy  we  know  not,  for  there  is  a  gap  of  a  thousand 
yeai'S  in  her  annals,  and  the  history  of  modern  Coiiona  com- 
mences only  with  the  thirteenth  century  of  our  era.^ 

AVithin  the  walls  of  Cortona  are  but  few  local  remains  of  high 
antiquity.  There  is  a  fragment  of  walling  under  the  Palazzo- 
Facchini,  composed  of  a  few  large  blocks,  apparently  of  the  same 
date  as  the  city-walls.^  Another  relic  of  Etruscan  times  within 
the  walls  is  a  vault  beneath  the  Palazzo  Cecchetti,  just  ^^itliin  the 
gate  of  S.  Agostino.  On  my  begging  permission  to  see  the 
monument,  the  owner  coui-teously  proposed  to  show  it  in  person., 

^  Herod.    I.  57.     Herodotus'  statement  ments  on  both  sides.     They  will  be  found 

is  repeated  by  Dionysius   (I.  c.    29),  but  in  the  above  named  -works,  especially  in 

-ft-ith  this   difference,  that   in  the  text  of  that  of  Lejisius. 

Herodotus  the  city  is  called  Creston,  in  that  ■*  Niebuhr,  I.  p.  119. 

of    Diony.sius,    Croton.      That    they  were  ^  Liv.  IX.  37. 

identical  is  maintained  by  Xiebuhr  (I.  p.  ^  Polyb.  III.  S2  ;  Lir.  XXII.  4. 

34,   n.  89),   by  Cluver  (11.  p.  574),  and  '  Liv.  XXVIIl.  45. 

Mannert  (Geog.  p.  418)  ;  but  opposed  by  »  pi^n    jjal.  I.  c.  26  ;  Plin.  III.  8.    She- 

Miiller  (Etru.sk.   einl.  2,   10),  by  Lepsius  is  mentioned  also  by  Ptolemy,  Geog.  p.  72. 

(Ueber    die     Tyrrhenischen     Pelasger     in  ^  Eepetti,  I.  p.  812, 

Etrurien,   pp.   18  et  seq.),   and  by  Grote  i  Inghirami  speaks   of  a  fragment,   21' 

(History  of  Greece,  II.  p.   348).      Miiller  feet  long,  and  32  feet  high,  in  the  founda- 

and  Lepsius  consider  Herodotus  to  refer  to  tions  of  the  Palazzo  Laparelli,  in  the  Piazza 

a  Creston  in  Thrace,  beyond  Mount  Athos.  S.  Andrea.    Mon.  Etrus.  IV.  p.  77.  I  have- 

It  is  not  possible  here  to  state  the  arg\i-  sought  it  in  vain. 


CHAP.  LX.J  ETRUSCAN    VAULT— THE    MUSEUM.  401 

He  led  ine  into  his  coacli-liouse,  raised  a  trap-door,  and  descended 
into  a  wine-cellar;  Avliere  I  thought  he  was  about  to  offer  me  the 
juice  of  his  vineyards,  but  on  looking  around  I  perceived  that  I 
was  in  the  very  vault  I  was  seeking. 

It  is  of  no  great  size,  about  thirteen  feet  in  span,  rather  less  in 
length,  and  nine  in  height,  lined  with  regular  masonr}',  un- 
cenlented,  neatly  cut  and  arranged,  and  in  excellent  preservation.^ 
It  is  so  like  the  Deposito  del  (rran  Duca,  and  the  Yigna  Grande, 
at  Chiusi,  and  the  Grotta  di  San  ^lanno,  near  Perugia,  that  it  is 
difficult  to  deny  it  an  Etruscan  origin.  Analogy  thus  marks  it  as 
a  tomb,  yet  its  position  within  the  ancient  fortifications  seems 
opposed  to  this  view,  and  there  is  nothing  be3'ond  the  bare  walls 
to  assist  lis  in  determining  its  original  pm'pose.  I  am  strongly 
inclined  to  regard  it  as  a  sepulchre.  After  the  discoveries  of 
Schliemann  at  iMvcente,  which  have  quite  upset  pre-existing 
theories,  no  instance  of  intramural  se})ulture  on  ancient  sites 
ought  to  suri)rise  us.'' 

The  only  other  local  anti(|uity  in  Cortona  is  a  fragment  of 
Koman  oj)us  incertnin,  commonly  called  the  Baths  of  Bacchus,  in 
the  higher  part  of  the  town. 

Cortona,  for  more  than  a  century  past,  has  been  the  seat  of  an 
antiquarian  society,  the  Accademia  Etrusca,  which  lias  published 
many  volumes  of  archceological  treatises.  It  has  formed  also  a 
small  ^luseum  of  Etruscan  relics,  found  in  the  neighbourhood, 
which  is  preserved  in  the  Municipal  Palace,  whose  walls  botli  within 
and  without,  are  hung  with  armorial  bearings,  eloqiient  of  the  past 
glories  of  Cortona.  There  is  little  pottery  here — no  painted  vases 
of  beauty  or  interest ;  merely  some  ordinary  red  or  black  ware, 
the  latter  often  with  bands  of  small  archaic  figures  in  relief — a 
focohirc  of  hucchero — a  few  idols,  or  ti<iuyinc,  as  the  Italians  call 
them,  of  terra-cotta,  from  four  to  ten  inches  in  height,  votive 
offerings,  or  more  probably  the  Lares  of  the  lower  orders,  and 
sundry  small  lamps,  some  of  them  of  grotesque  character. 

The  Museum  is  more  rich  in  bronzes  tlian  in  pottery.  The 
most  remarkable  are — a  naked  figure  of  Jui)itcr  Tonans,  about 
seven  or  eight  inches  high, — a  female  winged  divinity  with  a  cock 
on  her  head,  and  the  figure  of  a  boy,  more  than  three  inches  liigh, 

-  The  lilocks  are  of  the  local  sandstone,  telitalicn,   p.    '250),   and   I  would   cite,   in 

or    niaci'jno,   as    it    is  called.     They  vary  continuation   of  this  opinion,  the  suhter- 

from  3  to  nearly  7  feet  in  length,  and  are  ranean  tombs  within  the  Arx  of  Taniuinii. 

15  inches  in  height.  Vol.  I.  p.  428.     The  floor  is  the  bare  rock  ; 

'  Abekcn   regards   it  as  undoubtedly  a  the  back  wall  of  the  vault  has  been  pulled 

sepulchre  (Ana.  Inst.   18-tl,  p.  39  ;  Alit-  down  to  enlarge  its  dimensions. 

Vol,    II,  D  D 


402 


COETONA. 


[chap.  lx. 


with  an  Etruscan  inscription  of  three  lines  carved  on  his  shirt, 
as  shown  in  the  annexed  woodcut.  In  his  right  hand  he  holds 
up  a  fruit,  in  his  left  he  has  another.     His  hair  is  tied  in  a  knot 

over  his  forehead.  This  figure 
was  found  ahout  eight  miles  from 
Cortona  on  the  road  to  Arezzo."* 
Here  are  also  two  singular 
bronze  figures,  eleven  inches  and 
a  half  in  height,  nude,  each  hold- 
ing a  spear  and  wearing  a  torque 
and  buskins,  with  a  skin  over  his 
head.  One  of  them  has  a  face 
also  behind  his  head,  like  a 
Janus.  One  is  inscribed  thus, 
in  Etruscan  characters  :  — 

V.    CVIXTI.    ARNTIAS.    SELAX. 

The  other 

V.    CVIXTI.    ARXTIAS.    CULPIAXSL 
AUPAXTURCE 

There  are  also  man}'  purel}'" 
Egyptian  idols,  a  few  mirrors 
and  other  bronzes,  and  a  collec- 
tion of  Etruscan  coins. ^ 

But    the   Avonder    of    ancient 
wonders  in  the  Museum  of  Cor- 
tona, is  a  bronze  lamp  of  such  surpassing  beauty  and  elaboration 
of  workmanship  as  to  throw  into  the  shade  every  toreutic  work 
of  this  class,  yet  discovered  m  the  soil  of  Etruria.     Were  there 


BOY    IN    BKOXZK.    CORTONA    MUSEUM. 


•»  Ann.  Inst.  lS6i,  pp.  390-393. 

*  The  coins  attributed  to  Cortona  arc  the 
most  simple  of  all  ancient  Italian  money. 
All  twelve  sides  of  the  series,  from  the  a.i 
to  the  uncia,  bear  one  uniform  type  —a 
•wheel.  There  is  no  legend  to  mark  these 
coins  as  belonging  to  any  particular  city, 
but  Marchi  and  Tessieri  see  in  the  wh.eel 
the  symbol  of  Cortona,  whose  original  name 
they  take  to  have  been  "  Rutun  "  (instead 
of  K-rutun) — a  rota — and  setting  all  his- 
tory aside,  they  i  eganl  it  as  :v  colony  of  the 
Kutuli,  who  had  a  similar  device  on  their 
coins.  ..lis  Grave  del  JIuseo  Kirclieriano, 
cl  III.  tav.  3.  I'rofessor  Lepsius,  though 
condemning  this  explanation  as  erroneous, 


assents  to  the  attribution  of  these  coics  to 
Cortona,  and  agrees  with  the  worthy  Jesuits 
in  regai'ding  Cortona  as  a  most  ancient 
mint,  and  as  the  metropolis  of  five  other 
coining  cities,  which  have  a  wheel  on  one 
side  only.  Ann.  Inst.  1841,  pp.  103,  109; 
Verbreit.  d.  Ital.  jNIiinzsyst.  pp.  58,  69. 
See  also  Bull.  Inst.  1839,  p.  123.— Mel- 
chiorri ;  1842,  p.  126. — Genarelli.  Abeken 
(Mittelitalien,  p.  280)  does  not  consider 
the  wheel,  or  the  other  devices  on  Etruscan 
coins,  to  mark  any  particular  sites,  and  he 
regards  the  distrilmtion  of  these  coins  to  a 
metropolis  and  its  dependencies  to  be  quite 
arbitrary. 


■CHAP,   LX.] 


TTTE    BROXZE    LA^fP. 


■403 


iiothinj(  else  to  be  seen   at  Cortona,  this  alone  -would  deiujind  a 
yisit.    It  merits  therefore  a  inore  detailed  description  than  T  liave 


generally  given  to  individual  articles.  It  is  cii-cular,  about 
twenty-three  inches  in  diameter,  hollow  like  a  bowl,  but  from  the 
centre  rises  a  sort  of  conical  chimney  or  tube,  to  which  must 

V  V  2 


404  COETONA.  [chap.  lx. 

Imve  been  attached  a  cliaiii  for  its  suspension,  riouiul  the  rim 
are  sixteen  lamps,  of  classic  form,  fed  by  oil  from  the  great  bowl, 
and  adorned  -with  foliage  in  relief.  Alternating  with  them  are 
heads  of  the  horned  and  bearded  Bacchus  (see  the  woodcut,  page 
403).  At  the  bottom  of  each  lamp  is  a  figure  in  relief — alter- 
nately a  draped  Siren  with  wings  outspread,  and  a  naked  Satyr 
])laving  tile  double  pipes,  or  the  si/riiix  (see  the  woodcut  at  page 
;)94,  which  represents  a  small  section  of  the  bottom  of  this  curious 
lamp.)  The  bottom  is  hollowed  in  the  centre,  and  contains  a 
huge  Gorgon's  face ;  iiot  such  as  Da  A^inci  painted  it,  with 

'•  The  melodioiTs  hue  of  beauty  thrown 
Atliwart  the  darkuess  aud  the  glare  of  pain, 
AVhich  humanise  and  harmonise  the  strain." 

Here  all  is  horror.  The  visage  of  a  fiend,  with  eyes  starting  from 
their  sockets  in  the  fury  of  rage — a  mouth  stretched  to  its  utmost, 
with  gnashing  tusks  and  lolling  tongue — and  the  whole  rendered 
more  terrible  b}'  a  wreath  of  serpents  bristling  around  it.  It  is  a 
libel  on  the  fair  face  of  Pian,  to  say  that  this  hideous  visage  sym- 
bolises the  moon.^'  In  a  band  encircling  it,  are  lions,  leopards,, 
wolves,  and  griffons,  in  pairs,  devouring  a  bull,  a  horse,  a  boar,  and 
a  stag ;  and  in  an  outer  band  is  the  favourite  wave-ornament,  with 
dolphins  sporting  above  it.  Between  two  of  the  lamps  was  a  small 
tablet  with  an  Etruscan  inscrii)tion,  marking  this  as  a  dedicatory 
offering.^  The  inscription  is  not  perfect,  the  tablet  being  broken 
at  both  ends.     As  far  as  it  is  legible  it  would  run  thus  in  lloman 

^^^t^^"«=-  THAPXA.    LUSNI 

iNscvii-  ATnr.ic 

SALTHX. 

The  lamp  is  of  Corinthian  brass,  and  its  weight  is  said  to  be  one 
hundred  and  seventy  Tuscan  pounds.'^ 

^  Tbis  i.s  a  well-known  Orphic  doctrine.  62.     Micali,    Mon.  Ined.    p.  SO.     Inscrip- 

Ei))genes,  ap.    Clem.    Alex.    Strom.   V.   p.  tions  like  tliis,  attacheil  to  moninneuts,  are 

<)7t),   ed.    Potter.     Tlie   .sei^jents   aI.so   are  not  of  unfrequent  occurrence.     It  was  the 

supposed   to    he    emblems    of    tlie    lunar  custom  to  attach  them  to  gifts,  as  now-a- 

Langes.     Ann.  Inst.  1842,  p.  58.  days  it  is  witli  us  to  write  tbe  name  of  tbe 

"  Some  of  the  letters  are  i)cculiar  ;  hut  giver  and  gifted,  in  a  presented  book.  We 
one  word,  "inscvil,"  marks  it  as  a  dcdi-  liave  a  notable  instance  of  tbis  in  the  cele- 
catory  gift.  It  is  in  all  ])robrtbiHty  in-  lirated  bronze  cista,  or  casket,  from  Pales- 
tended  for  "  Tinscvil,"  tbe  word  wbicb  is  trina,  jn-eserved  in  tlie  Kircberian  Museum 
inscribed  on  tbe  Cliimaera  in  tbe  Florence  at  Home,  wbicb  records  in  an  inscription 
(rallcry,  on  the  (iritlbn  at  Lcyden,  on  a  tliat  it  was  ijresented  by  a  lloman  lady  ti> 
bronze  dog  in  tbe  po.ssession  of  Sr.  Coltellini  lier  daugbtei'. 

of  Cortona,  and  also  on  a  small  pedestal  in  -^  Bull.  Inst.  1840,  p.  16'      Cf.  Micali, 

tbis  same  museum.     Ann.  lust.   1842,  p.  Jlon.  Ined.  j).  78. 


GiiAP.  Lx.]  THE    BRONZE    LAMP.  -tu.> 

From  tlic  eLiljoi-atc  decoration  of  tlic  bottom  of  tlic  Lnu]),  and 
itlie  comparative  })laiiniess  of  tlie  ui)per  part,  as  well  as  from  the 
analogy  of  similar  monnments,  there  is  every  reason  to  believe 
tliat  it  Avas  suspended,  perlnips  in  a  tomb,  perhaps  in  a  temple, 
as  a  sacrificial  lamp;  which  in  truth  its  remarkable  si/e  and 
l!>eauty  seem  to  indicate.'' 

The  style  of  art  shows  a  certain  degree  of  archaicism,  yet  at 
the  same  time  betraN's  a  strong  Hellenic  influence  which  precludes 
the  idea  of  a  very  early  date.  It  is  luidoubtedl}'  of  ante-lloman 
times,  and  I  think  it  maj^  safely  be  referred  to  the  fifth  century 
of  Rome,  or  to  the  close  of  Etruscan  independence.^ 

From  this  monument,  so  beautiful  in  art  and  elaborate  in 
decoration,  we  can  well  understand  how  it  was  that  the  Etruscan 
caiideldbra  and  other  works  of  toreutic  art  were  so  admired  and 
prized  by  the  Athenians,  even  m  the  days  of  Pericles."  ]Micali 
justly  observes,  that  in  master}-  of  art  no  other  Etruscan  Mork  in 
bronze,  except  the  larger  statues,  can  rival  this  gem.^ 

This  singular  relic  of  Etruscan  antiquity  was  discovered  in 
1840,  at  a  spot  called  I^a  Fratta,  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain  of 
<  'ortona,  to  the  west ;  not  in  a  tomb,  but  in  a  ditch,  at  a  slight 
•depth  below  the  surface.  The  fortunate  possessor  is  the  Signora 
Tommasi,  of  Cortona,  whose  husband  is  said  to  have  given  700 
dollars  to  the  peasants  who  found  it.^ 

'■'  It  is  doubtless  a  lijchnus,  siicli  as  were  the  lamp  placed  in  lier  Imsljaiul's  toiiib. 
hung  from  the  ceilings  of  palaces  or  temples  Micali  cites  an  extract  from  Modestinns 
(Virg.  Mn.l.  72(5  ;  Plin.  XXXIV.  8),  and  (leg.  44,  Micvia  D.  de  Manumiss.  testam.), 
as  have  been  found  also  suspended  in  sepul-  which  shows  that  a  certain  Roman  gave 
chres — even  in  Etruscan  ones,  as  in  the  freedom  to  his  slaves  at  his  death,  on  con- 
Tomb  of  the  Vohimnii,  at  Perugia.  Micali  dition  of  their  keeping  a  light  bui-niiig  in 
(Mon.  Ined.  p.  78)  thinks  it  a  sepulchral  his  sepulchre:  "  Saccus  scrvus  mens  et 
monument — a  funeral  offering  to  the  great  liutychia  et  Hicne  ancillis  mese  omnes  sub 
god  of  the  infernal  regions,  consecrated  by  hac  conditione  liberi  sunto,  ut  monumento 
some  lady  of  illustrious  race,  as  the  inscrip-  meo  alternis  mensibus  lucernam  accendant, 
tion  seems  to  show.  He  suggests  that  it  ct  solemnia  mortis  peragant." 
may  have  hung  in  the  chamber,  where  the  ^  Micali  (Mon.  Ined.  p.  75)  would  refer 
funeral  feast  was  wont  to  be  celebrated,  as  it  to  the  sixth  or  seventh  century  of  Rome, 
well  as  the  annual  inferke  or  parentulla.  which,  according  to  the  standard  of  the 
The  use  of  sepulchral  lamps  by  the  ancients  jjainted  pottery,  would  be  too  late  a  date. 
is  well  kno\ni,  and  gave  rise,  in  the  middle  "  Pherecrates,  ap.  Athen.  XV.  c.  18  ; 
ages,  to  strange  notions  of  jierpetual  fire  ;  Critias,  ap.  eund.  I.  c.  22. 
for  it  was  asserted  that  some  were  found  ■'  Micali,  loc.  cit. 

still  burning  in  the  tombs,  though  fifteen  '  For  illustrations  and    notices    of   this 

or  twenty  centuries  had  elapsed  since  they  lamp  see  Micali,  Monumenti  Inediti,  pp. 

were    lighted.      It    seems,    however,    that  72,   ct  seq.  tav,   9,  10  ;  Bull.    Inst.   1840, 

lamps   were   sometimes    kept    burning   in  p.    1(J4   (Fabroni)  ;    Ann.    Inst.    1842,   p. 

sepulchres  long  after  the  interment,  as  in  .')3,  ct  seq.  (Abeken)  :  1843,  p.  354  (Braun) ; 

the  case  of  the  Ephesian  widow  described  !Mou.  Ined.  Instit.  III.  tav.   (1,  42. 
liy  Petronius  (SatjT.  c.   13),  who  renewed 


40G  COETOXA.  [CHAP.  Lx. 

Tliis  collection  boasts  also  of  an  ancient  picture  of  the  Muse- 
Polyhymnia,  with  a  garland  of  leaves  round  her  head,  and  the 
fragment  of  a  h-re  b}-  her  side,  painted  in  encaustic  on  a  slate » 
It  was  found  at  a  spot  called  Centoja,  between  Chiusi  and  Monte- 
pulciano,  and,  like  the  lamj^,  is  the  propert}'  of  the  Tommasi. 
It  has  been  pronounced  Greek,  but  from  its  resemblance  to  the 
frescoes  of  Pompeii,  it  ma}'  more  correctl}'  be  designated  Grseco- 
Eoman. 

There  is  nothing  more,  so  far  as  I  am  aware,  of  Etruscan 
interest  within  the  walls  of  Cortona.  I  leave  the  traveller  to  his 
tutelar  deities,  the  Guide-books,  to  steer  him  safel}'  among  the 
churches,  the  paintings,  and  such  rocks  as  the  sarcophagus  in 
the  Cathedral — said  to  be  that  of  the  Consul  Flaminius,  who  lost 
his  life  by  "  the  reedy  Thrasymene  " — on  which  inexperience  and 
credulity  have  so  often  run  aground;  but  I  will  resume  the 
helm  when  we  quit  the  Gate  of  S.  Agostino^  for  the  tombs  of 
Cortona. 

The  height  on  which  the  city  stands  is  of  stratified  sandstone, 
the  same  as  composes  the  ancient  walls — too  hard  to  be  easil}' 
excavated  into  sepulchral  chambers,  at  least  b}'  the  Etruscans, 
who  had  not  the  aqua-fortis  tooth  of  the  Egyptians,  and  rarely 
attempted  to  eat  their  way  into  anything  harder  than  tufo  or  light 
arenaceous  rocks.  Here  then,  as  at  Paisellffi,  Cosa,  and  Saturnia, 
tombs  must  be  looked  for  on  the  lower  slopes  or  in  the  plain 
beneath,  rather  than  immediately  around  the  city-walls.  Yet  on 
ledges  in  the  slopes,  where  accumulations  of  soil  from  the  high 
ground  made  it  practicable,  tombs  were  constructed.  It  was 
necessary,  however,  in  such  a  case  to  construct  the  sepulchre  of 
masonry,  and  that  it  might  be  subterranean,  according  to  the 
usual  practice,  it  was  heaped  over  with  earth.  Of  this  description 
is  the  celebrated 

Taxella  di  Pitagoea, 

or  the  "Cave  of  Pythagoras,"  so  called  from  the  vulgar  belief 
that  that  celebrated  philosopher  dwelt  and  taught  in  this  city, 
though  it  was  at  Croton  in  Magna  Gra;cia,  not  at  the  Croton  of 
Etruria,  that  he  took  up  his  residence. 

This  most  remarkable  sepulchre  stands  on  the  slope  two  or 
three  furlongs  below  the  city,  between  it  and  the  railway  station. 
It  has  been  know-n  for  ages  to  the  world,  but  had  been  neglected 
and  half  buried  beneath  the  earth,  till,  in  the  year  1834,  it  was 
re-excavated;  and  it  now  stands  in  all  its  majesty  revealed  to  the 


CHAP.  Lx.]  TANELLA    DI    I'lTAGORA.  407 

sun,  like  ii  luiiiiaturo  temple  of  the  Druids,  amid  a  grove  of 
cypresses. 

The  monument  is  now  in  sucli  a  state  of  ruin  as  at  first  sight 
to  be  hardly  intelligible.  The  entrance  is  by  a  sfjuare-headed 
doorway,  facing  the  South,  and  leading  into  a  small  chamber, 
surrounded  by  walls  of  massive  rectangular  masonry,  in  which 
sundry  gaps  ar(;  left  for  niches.^  One  side  of  this  chamber 
is  in  utter  ruin.  It  was  roofed  in  by  five  immense  blocks,'' 
resting  on  two  semicircular  masses  which  crowned  the  masonry 
at  the  opposite  ends  of  the  chamber ;  forming  thus  a  vault,  which 
differs  from  ordinary  vaults  in  this,  that  each  course  of  voussoirs 
is  composed,  of  a  single  block.  It  is  not  easy  to  determine  if  the 
architect  understood  the  principle  of  the  arch.  The  blocks  are 
of  course  cuneiform,  or  the}^  would  not  fit  closely,  and  be  in 
harmony  with  the  rest  of  the  masonr}'.  But  their  needless 
massiveness  and  length,  and  the  mode  in  which  they  are  sup- 
ported, seem  to  indicate  that  they  were  not  raised  with  a 
knowledge  of  the  arch-principle.  On  the  other  hand,  the  semi- 
circular blocks  on  which  they  rest,  could  not  have  been  dispensed 
with,  without  destroying  the  symmetr}'  of  the  tomb.  Of  these 
five  cover-stones,  one  only  retains  its  position,  and  serves  as  the 
key  to  the  whole ;  a  second  has  one  end  still  resting  on  the  lintel 
of  the  door,  the  other  on  the  ground  ;  mul  the  remaining  three 
have  been  broken  to  pieces.  The  walls  of  the  chamber  are  of, 
immense  thickness,  and  the  whole  is  surrounded  by  a  circle  of 
masonry  of  the  same  massive  description,  four  or  five  feet  high, 
restmg  on  a  still  larger  basement,  seventj'-six  feet  in  circumference 
and  now  almost  level  with  the  ground.'^ 

The  chamber  has  been  closed  in  the  same  way  as  the  Grotta 
Casuccini,  at  Chiusi ;  sockets  for  the  stone  flaps  of  the  door 
being  visible  in  the  lintel  and  threshold.  The  sepulchral 
character  of  the  structure  is  manifest  from  the  niches,  of  which 
there  are  seven,  evidently  for  cinerary  urns  or  vases.     No  vestige 

*  The  doorway  is  5   ft.    8  in.  liigli,   liy  ■weight  of  one  of  tlieni  has  been  estimated 

3  ft.  6  in.  wide.     The  chamber  is  only  S  ft.  at  10,000  lbs.      Bull.  Inst.  loo.  cit. 

6  in.  by  (i  ft.  6  in.     Gori  (ilus.  Etrus.  III.  ''  The  circling  wall  terminates  above  in  a 

p.  75,  cl.  II.  tav.  2)  describes  this  tomb  as  idain  fascia — only  a  small  portion  of  which 

if  it  had  another  entrance  by  a  subterranean  is  standing — the  space  between  it  and  the 

passage.     Wliat   he  mistook   for  snch    has  walls  of  the  chamber  is  filled  with  earth, 

been  proved  to  be  the  entrance  to  another  For  illustrations  of  this  monument  see  Gori, 

tomb.       Bull.     Inst.     1S:J4,    p.     11)7.  —  JIus.  Etrus.    III.   cl.    II.   tab.    2  ;    Inghi- 

Castellani.  rami,  Mun.   Etrus.   IV.  tav.   11 ;  Abeken, 

®  These  cover-stones   are    about    10    ft.  IMittelitalien,  taf.  V.  3. 
long,  3  ft.  wide,  and  22  in.  thick.     The 


408  COETOXA.  [chap.  lx. 

now  remains  of  such  furniture,  nor  is  there  any  record  of  what 
the  tomb  contained  when  first  brought  to  hght ;  but  in  recent 
excavations  a  great  quantity  of  rude  pottery  was  found  around 
the  monument.  The  most  surjirising  feature  is  the  freshness  and 
careful  fiuish  of  the  masonry,  especially  of  the  interior.  The 
slabs  and  blocks  of  sandstone  seem  newly  brought  from  the 
quany,  and  are  put  together,  though  without  cement,  with  a 
neatness  which  might  shame  a  modern  mason.  It  is  difficult  to 
believe  they  have  stood  thus  between  two  and  three  thousand 
3'ears.  The  external  circling  wall  shows  the  same  sharpness  and 
neatness.  From  the  analogy  of  other  monuments,  and  from  the 
cover-stones  of  the  roof  being  left  undressed,  there  is  no  doubt 
that  this  wall  was  the  basement  to  a  mound  of  earth,  forming  a 
tumulus  over  the  sepulchre.^ 

The  Cyclo2)ean  massiveness  of  the  blocks,  akin  to  those  in  the 
cit}'  walls,  the  insertion  of  small  pieces  to  fill  the  interstices,  and 
above  all,  the  simi^licity  of  the  vaulted  roof,  apparently  prior  to 
the  invention  of  the  arch,  throw  this  monument  back  to  a  ver}'' 
remote  period,  earher  than  the  construction  of  the  Cloaca 
Maxima,  and  perhaps  coeval  with  the  foundation  of  Rome.  Nor  do 
the  sharpness  and  neatness  of  its  masonry  belie  such  an  antiquity, 
seeing  that  other  works  of  the  earliest  ages,  as  the  Gate  of  Lions 
at  Mycenae,  and  the  walls  of  Cortona  and  Fiesole,  display  no 
inferior  skill  and  execution ;  though  in  this  case  much  of  the 
freshness  is  undoubtedly  owing  to  the  proiection  of  the  super- 
incumbent earth. 

I  am  inclined  to  regard  this  monument  as  coeval  with  the 
walls  of  Cortona,  and  of  Pelasgic  origin.  A  slab,  however,  which 
was  found  near  it  in  the  late  excavations,  and  from  its  precise 
correspondence  in  size,  probabh'  served  to  close  one  of  the  niches 
in  the  chamber,  bears  an  inscription  in  Etruscan  character.' 
This,  however,  may  show  no  more  than  an  appropriation  by  the 
Etruscans. 

It  is  singular  that  the  dimensions  of  this  Grotta  di  Pitagora 
agree  almost  precisely  with  the  multiples  and  divisions  of  the 
modern  Tuscan  hraccio,  which  there  is  good  reason  to  believe  is 

®  Abeken  (Ann.  Inst.  1S41,  ]).  37)  thinks  mounted  it. 

this  tumulus  was  a  cone  like  those  of  Tar-  '•*  For  this  inscription  see  Ann.   Instit. 

quinii,  but  truncated;    and  states  that  a  1S41,  p,  -37.     In  Latin  lettei-s  it  would  run 

square  abaciix,   topt  by  a   ball   of   stone,  thus, — 

similar  to  what  may  be  seen  in  the  iluseo  v  .  cusu  .  cr  .  i. .  apa 

Casuccini  at  Chiusi,   wa.s  found  near  the  petkual.  clax. 

Jttcnumcnt,  as    if    it    had   originally  sur-  It  is  pre.served  in  the  Museum  of  Cortona. 


CHAP.  Lx.]  TKE    GROTTA    SERGAEDI.  409 

just  double  tlie  aucient  Piouiiin  foot.  Tliis  confirms  the  opinion 
already  stated,  tliat  the  lionians  took  tliat  measure  from  the 
Etruscans,  and  that  the  nu)dern  Tuscans  use  the  very  same 
measures  as  their  celebrated  forefathers.^ 

Near  this,  traces  of  other  tumuli  have  been  discovered,  in 
rounded  basements  of  rock.  Baldclli,  wlio  wrote  in  1570,  states 
that  in  his  time  there  existed  three  other  sei)ulchres,  one  precisely 
similar  to  this,  and  close  to  the  road  leading  to  Canniscia  ;  a 
second  beneath  the  church  of  S.  Vincenzio  ;  but  botli  had  been 
almost  destrt)yed  b}-  a  certain  man  who  dreamed  that  treasure 
lay  concealed  within  them ;  and  a  third  on  the  site  of  the  church 
of  Sta.  ]\Iaria  Xuova,  l)el()W  Cortona  to  tlie  north,  removed  to 
make  room  for  that  edifice.-^ 

The  said  JJaldelli  states  in  his  MS.,  which  tliongli  frequently 
copied,  has  never  been  printed,  that  the  two  last-named  tombs 
were  composed  of  five  enormous  stones,  one  forming  each  side  of 
the  quadrangle  and  the  fifth  covering  it^ — precisely  resembling 
the  seiiulchres  still  extant  at  Saturnia,  and  the  cromlechs  of  our 
own  country. 

GlJOTTA    SeRGARDI. 

At  the  foot  of  the  hill  of  Cortona,  close  to  Camuscia  and  the 
railway  station,  stands  a  large  mound  or  barrow,  vulgarly  called 
II  Melone,  about  640  feet  in  circumference,  and  4G  feet  high. 
This  "  Melon  "  had  long  been  suspected  of  being  sepulchral;  and 
at  length  the  i)roprietor,  Signer  Sergardi  of  Siena,  determined  to 
have  it  opened,  and  secured  the  services  of  Signor  Alessandro 
Fran9ois,  the  most  experienced  excavator  in  Tuscany.  He 
commenced  operations  in  the  autumn  of  1842,  and  the  result  was 
the  discovery  of  a  sepulchre  of  most  singular  character,  bearing 
some  analogy  indeed  to  the  Regulini  tomb  at  Caere,  but  a  strict 
resemblance  to  no  other  3'et  disclosed  in  the  soil  of  Etruria. 
I^nfoi'tunately  it  had  been  riiied  in  previous  ages,  so  that  little 
of  value  was  found  Avithin  it ;  and  its  interest  lies  chiefly 
in  its  plan  and  construction,  in  which  respects  it  remains 
uninjured. 

'  l)iill.  Inst.  1S3^},  p.    198.      Ft  /supra,  iinicli  pottery,  and  many  sepulchral  lamps, 

p.  liS'.K  This  record  is  valuable,  as  throwing  light 

•  In  this  last  tomb  was  found  a  large  on  the  cliaracter  of  tiie  analogous  tombs  of 

eartlienware  pot,  containing  a  bronze  vase,  Saturnia. 

beautifully  chiselled,  with  a  smaller  vase  of  3  JJaldelli,  ap.  Gori,  III.  pp.  7f>,  76;  ap. 

the  same  metal  within  it,  holding  the  ashes  Inghiranii,  ]\Ion.  Etr.  IV.  p.  7"2. 
of  the  deceased  ;  besides  sundry  weapons, 


410  CORTOXA.  [CHAP.  lx. 

The  tomb  has  been  closed  of  late,  and  the  traveller  must  now 
content  himself  Avith  an  inspection  of  its  contents,  ■which  are 
preserved  at  the  Villa  Sergardi  hard  by,  and  courteously  exhibited 
to  strangers.  As  it  may  be  re-opened  at  some  future  time,  I 
repruit  the  description  I  gave  in  the  former  edition  of  tliis 
■work. 

A  long  passage  lined  with  masonr}-  leads  into  the  heart  of  the 
tumulus.  For  the  last  seven  yards  it  widens,  and  is  divided  by 
a  low  thick  wall  into  two  parallel  passages  which  lead  to  two 
entrances,  now  closed  with  wooden  doors.  The  partition  wall  is 
terminated  in  front  by  a  square  mass  of  masonry,  which  probably 
served  as  a  pedestal  for  a  lion  or  sphinx ;  and  the  passage  opens, 
on  either  hand  at  its  further  end,  into  a  small  square  chamber. 
Enter  one  of  the  wooden  doors,  and  3'ou  find  yourself  in  a  long 
passage-like  tomb,  communicating  by  a  doorwa}'  with  an  inner 
chamber.  The  other  door  opens  into  a  pavallel  tomb  precisely 
similar  m  ever}'  respect.'^' 

The  resemblance  of  this  tomb  to  the  Regulini  at  Crere  will 
strike  you  immediatel}' — not  only  in  its  passage  form,  but  also 
in  its  construction,  for  it  is  roofed  over  on  the  same  primitive 
principle  of  the  convergence  of  the  blocks  to  a  centre,  which, 
before  they  meet,  are  covered  by  large  flat  slabs.  The  dilierence 
consists  in  the  double  passage  and  in  the  size  of  the  masonry, 
"which,  instead  of  being  composed  of  regular,  massive  blocks,  as 
in  the  tomb  of  Cervetri,  is  here  of  small  pieces  of  schistose  rock, 
not  hewn,  but  rudely  hannner-dressed  into  the  shape  of  long 
shallow  bricks ;  it  is  equally  without  cement,  but  the  clayey  soil 
here  exuding  through  the  interstices  appears  like  a  plaster  of 
mud.  Masonry  of  this  description  is  not  found  elsewhere  in 
Etruscan  edifices.  It  seems  an  imitation  of  brickwork,  and 
belies  the  assertion  of  a  celebrated  architect,  that  this  sort  of 
roof  could  not  be  formed  of  that  material.''  Nothing  can  be  more 
unlike  than  this  masonry  and  that  of  the  Tanella  di  Pitagora, 
and  at  first  sight  you  are  ready  to  pronounce  it  impossible  that 
botli,  little  more  than  a  mile  apart,  could  have  been  raised  by  the 
same  hands.  Yet  that  this  was  Etruscan  there  can  be  no  doubt, 
frum  the  nature  of  its  contents ;  and  its  construction  proves  it  to 


''  Tlie  outer  cliambers  arc  14  ft.  long,  Ijy  ^  Caniua,    Cere    Antiea,    p.    G7.      The 

8  ft.  wide  ;  tlie  inner,  only  11  ft.  iu  lengtli.  bricks,  or  ratber  stoue-s,  in  tbis  case,  are 

In  tbe  inner  wall  of  one  of  these  tombs  is  a  kejit  in  their  places  by  the  weight  of  the 

hole,    through   wliich   you   can    look   into  superincuuibeut  earth. 
another  chamber  not  yet  oijened. 


CHAP.  Lx.]  THE    MELON   TUMULUS.  411 

be  of  at  least  equal  antiquity.  The  character  of  the  masonry- 
seems  here  determined  by  local  circumstances.  On  the  hill  of 
Cortona  the  rock  admits  of  being  hewn  into  square  masses  ;  here 
at  its  foot,  it  is  of  that  hard,  brittle,  flaky  character,  -which  renders 
vain  the  labour  of  the  chisel,  and  prompted  the  adoption  of  a 
species  of  masonry  but  little  consistent  with  Etruscan  habits  of 
neatness. 

These  parallel  tombs  are  paved  witli  large  flagstones,  and 
underneath  them,  in  the  rock  on  which  they  are  laid,  are  channels 
to  carry  off  the  water  that  might  percolate  through  the  roof.  The 
outer  passages,  now  open  to  the  sky,  seem  to  have  been  covered 
in  the  same  manner  as  the  parallel  tombs. 

Though  this  "Melon"  had  been  previously  opened,  perhaps 
more  than  once,  it  still  contained  a  few  pips ;  such  as  broken 
black  potter}',  a  few  remains  in  bronze  and  bone,  and  \evy  small 
fragments  of  gold  and  silver.  Everythmg  that  has  been  dis- 
covered in  the  mound,  is  now  to  be  seen  at  the  Villa  Sergardi 
hard  by. 

Above  this  tomb,  in  the  higher  part  of  the  mound,  were  dis- 
covered three  very  small  chambers,  one  of  which  was  unrifled^ 
and  contained  a  large  covered  pot  of  bronze,  embossed,  and  a 
vase  of  black  clay  lilce  the  most  ancient  of  Cfere  and  Yeii,  with  a 
procession  of  archaic  figures  in  relief.  Both  contained  human 
ashes.  Besides  these,  there  were — an  elegant  tazza  with  similar 
reliefs — a  quantit}'  of  small  black  ware — unguentaria  of  ordinary 
clay — and  a  long  slab  of  stone,  apparent^  part  of  a  sarcophagus, 
with  reliefs  of  very  archaic  style,  representing  a  niunber  of  figures 
kneeling.  Here  also  were  found  sundry  spearheads  of  iron,  in 
one  of  which  is  a  portion  of  the  wooden  shaft  almost  petrified  ; 
together  with  a  hoe,  a  key,  and  part  of  a  lock  of  the  same  metal, 
all  much  oxydised,  a  small  sphinx  of  bone,  and  remains  of  heads 
in  terra-cotta.° 

This  tumulus  has  not  been  half  excavated,  and  it  is  believed 
with  good  reason  that  many  more  chambers  lie  within  it.  Yet, 
as  the  researches  have  proved  so  little  profitable,  owing  to  former 
riflings,  it  seems  doubtful  whether  they  will  be  continued.  The 
"Jlelon"  appears  to  be  wlioll}- artificial — not  like  the  Poggio 
Gajella,  at  Chiusi,  or  the  Monteroni,  near  Palo,  a  natural  lieight 
honey-combed  with  sepulcln-al  cells — and  seems  to  have  been  raised 

'  A  detailed  description  of  this  tomhand  Sienn,  1843.  For  an  account  of  tbe  exca- 
its  contents,  together  with  illustrations,  has  vations  see  also  Bull.  Inst.  lS-43,  pp.  33, 
been  published  by  Sr.  ^lelchiore  ilissiriui,        49  ;  1SG4,  p.  39. 


412  CORTOXA.  [CHAP.  Lx. 

over  the  masonry-built  tombs,  -which  stand  on  the  very  level  of 
the  plain.  Another  mound,  not  far  oft',  ofters  a  further  field  for 
excavating  enterprise. 

Coi-tona  is  a  cit}-  of  gi-eat  interest.  Its  high  antiquit}-,  its 
mysterious  origin,  lost  in  the  dim  perspective  of  remote  ages — 
the  fables  connected  with  its  early  liistor}- — the  i)roblem  of  its 
mighty  walls — the  paucity  of  tombs  as  yet  discovered  around 
them,  and  the  singular  character  of  those  that  stand  open — 
combine  to  cast  a  charm  over  Cortona,  a  charm  of  mysterv, 
which  can  only  be  full}-  appreciated  by  those  who  have  visited  the 
<^ite. 


BRONZE    HEAD    uF    HV1'.\"S,    l-imM    1-EKVGIA. 


CHAPTER    LXI. 

PEEUGIA.— i'/^;// r,s'/.i. 
The  City. 

Siut  tilji  Flamliiius,  Tlirasymenainie  litora  testes 


Ovii.. 


E  traversamo  jier  vetler  Penigia, 

Che  come  il  moute,  il  sito  t!  Iniuuo  e  bello. 

Faccio  degli  Uberti. 

HAPrY  the  man  -who  witli  niiiul  open  to  the  mfluences  of 
Nature,  journeys  on  a  bright  day  from  Cortona  to  Perugia  !  lie 
passes  throvigh  some  of  the  most  beautiful  scenery  in  all-beautiful 
Italy,  by  the  most  lovely  of  lakes,  and  over  ground  hallowed  by 
events  among  the  most  memorable  in  the  history  of  the  ancient 
world.  For  on  the  shores  of  "  the  reedy  Thrasymene,"  the 
fierce  Carthaginian  set  his  foot  on  the  j)roud  neck  of  Rome. 

This  used  to  be  the  upper  jiost-road  from  Florence  to  Piome, 
via  Perugia  and  Foligno,  and  it  is  still  the  line  of  the  railroad, 
■which,  while  it  has  greatly  facilitated  communication,  has  oblite- 


414  PEEUGIA.— TiiK  City.  [chap.  lxi. 

rated  certain  characteristic  features  of  Italian  traAel,  familiar  to 
those  Avho  knew  the  land  before  its  political  unification. 

The  day  on  which  I  last  journeyed  in  vettiira  over  this  well- 
heaten  road,  is  marked  in  my  memory  with  a  white  stone.  Before 
leaving  the  Tuscan  State,  I  halted  at  the  hamlet  of  Riecio  to 
dine,  for  the  worthy  merchant,  ni}'  chance-c(impanion,  was  wont 
to  make  this  his  house  of  call.  The  padrona  was  not  long  in 
answering  our  demands,  for  Ave  had  not  arrived  at  sunset,  expect- 
ing all  manner  of  impossibilities  find  unheard-of  dainties,  but  had 
drawn  on  her  larder  at  the  reasonable  hour  of  noon,  and  had  left 
our  appetites  to  her  discretion.  The  sun  shone  warmh-  into  the 
room — the  hostess  smiled  cheerilv — a  glorious  landscape  lay 
beneath  our  window — and  what  mattered  it  that  the  dishes 
stood  on  the  bare  board ;  that  the  spoons  and  forks  were  of  tin, 
find  that  the  merchant's  servant,  and  a  bearded  pilgi-im  in  sack- 
cloth, Ptome-bound  for  the  Holy  Week,  whom,  in  his  pious 
generosity,  my  companion  had  invited  to  partake,  sat  down  to 
table  with  us '?  Travelling  in  Italy,  for  him  who  would  mix  with 
the  natives,  and  can  forget  home-bred  pride,  prejudices,  and 
exigencies,  levels  all  distinctions. 

At  Monte  Gualandro,  we  entered  tlie  Papal  State.  Here  at 
our  feet  lay  the  Thrasymene,^  a  broad  expanse  of  blue,  mirroring 
in  intenser  hues  the  complexion  of  the  heavens.  Three  wooded 
islets  lay  floating,  it  seemed,  on  its  unruffled  surface.  Towns 
and  villages  glittered  on  the  verdant  shore.  Dark  heights  of 
X)urple  waved  around  ;  but  loftier  far,  and  fiir  more  remote,  the 
Apennines  reared  their  crests  of  snow — Nature's  nobles,  proud, 
distant,  and  cold,  holding  no  communion  with  the  herd  of  lowlier 
mountains  around  them. 

Such  was  the  scene  on  which  the  sun  shone  on  that  eventful 
<lay,  when  Rome  la}'  humbled  at  the  feet  of  Carthage,  when 
fifteen  thousand  of  her  sons  dyed  yonder  plain  and  lake  with 
their  blood.  From  the  height  of  Monte  Gualandro  the  whole 
battle-field  is  within  view.  At  the  foot  of  the  hill,  or  a  httle 
further  to  the  right,  on  the  shores  of  the  lake,  I'laminius,  on  his 
wa}'  from  Arretium,  halted  on  the  eve  of  the  battle.  Ere  the  sun 
had  risen  on  the  morrow  he  entered  the  i>ass  between  this  hill 
and  the  water,  and  marched  on  into  the  crescent-shaped   plain, 

^  TheLacusThrasymenus,  Tlirasunienus,  correct,  as  probablj' taken  from  the  oldest 

Tra.s}Tacnus,  or  Tra.sumerius  of  anti(iuity.  native  dialect,     ilany  of  the  ancients  also 

I'olybius  ^III.  S2)  calls  it  Tapatfj-iun  ^ififv,  called  it  Tharsonienus,  in.stettd  of  Thrasii- 

■which  ^lannert  (Geog.  !>.  416)  takes  to  he  jneim.s.     Quiiitil.  Inst.  Orat.  I.  5. 


CHAP.  Lxi.]  BATTLE    OF    THE    THRASYMEXE.  415 

formed  by  the  receding  of  tlio  iiioniitains  from  tlie  lake,  \\u- 
■coiiscious  tliat  lie  Avas  Avatched  from  these  very  heights  on  Avhicli 
Ave  stand,  h}'  Hannibal's  Balearic  slingers  and  light-armed  troops, 
and  that  the  nndnlating  gronnd  at  our  feet  concealed  the  enemy's 
horse.  Seeing  the  foe  in  front,  he  marched  on  through  the  pass, 
till  it  widens  into  the  plain,  and  there,  enveloped  by  a  dense  mist 
Avhich  arose  from  the  lake,  he  was  suddenly  attacked  on  every 
side  by  Hannibal's  main  force  in  front,  and  b}'  the  cavalry  and 
other  ambushers  in  the  rear.  Flaminius  then  saw  that  he  was 
■entrapped,  but,  nothing  daunted,  he  made  a  more  desj^erate 
struggle  for  victory  ;  ami  so  furious  the  contest  that  ensued,  so 
intent  were  all  on  the  work  of  destruction,  that  an  earthquake 
which  overthrew  many  cities  in  Italy,  turned  aside  the  course  of 
rapid  rivers,  carried  the  sea  up  between  their  banks,  and  cast 
down  even  mountains  in  might}'  ruin,  was  unknown,  unfelt,  b}'' 
any  of  the  combatants, — ■ 

"  Xone  felt  stern  Nature  rocking-  at  his  feet. 
An  earthquake  reel'd  unheededly  away  ! " 

For  three  hours  did  the  Romans  maintain  the  unecpial  contest, 
till  at  length,  when  their  leader  Flaminius  fell,  they  broke  and 
fled,  rushing,  some  to  the  mountain-steeps,  which  they  were  not 
suffered  to  climb,  others  to  the  lake,  in  whose  waters  they  vainly 
sought  safety.  Six  thousand,  who  had  broken  through  the  foe  at 
the  first  attack,  and  had  retired  to  a  height  to  await  the  issue  of 
the  fight,  effected  their  escape,  onl}'  to  be  captured  on  the  morrow. 
Ten  thousand  scattered  fugitives  carried  the  news  to  Rome." 

The  railroad,  for  the  greater  part  of  the  way  to  Passignano, 
skirts  the  very  edge  of  the  lake.  But  the  carriage-road  crosses 
the  battle-plain — now  overflowing  with  oil  and  wine,  then  steeped 
in  a  deeper  flood,  whose  hue  is  traditionally  preserved  in  the  name 
of  a  brook,  Sanguinetto — to  the  village  of  Passignano,  where  the 
mountains  again  meet  the  shore.  Here  the  traveller  may  halt  to 
taste  the  fish,  which  retains  its  ancient  reputation  ; ''  but  as  he 
values  skin  and  comfort,  let  him  not  tarry  here  the  night,  for 
legions  of  light-armed  foes  lie  thirsting  for  Ins  blood,  and  the 
powers  also  of  air  and  water — "  niali  ciiliccs,  nuKcquc,  ixduHtrea  " 
— are  in  league  to  rob  him  of  repose. 

-  For  this  hattle  see  Liv.    XXII.   4-7 ;  year  the  news  of  no  less  than  fifty-seven 

Polyb.  III.  82-84  ;  Sil.  Ital.  V. ;  Appian.  earthquakes  was  brought  to  Home. 
Peb.  Huun.  p.  319,  ed.  Steph.  ;  Ores.  IV.  =*  Sil.  Ital.  V.  581. 

15.     riiny  (II.  8(j)  states  that  in  the  sauie 


416  PERUGIA.— The  City.  [chap.  i.xi. 

To  set  the  Thames  on  lire  is  an  achievement  hey(ni<I  our 
deirenerate  chivs,  but  the  Thrasvmene,  if  ^ve  mav  behcve  tradition^ 
■was  of  more  intiammable  stuif,  and  was  once  utterly  burnt  up  by 
fire  from  jieaven.'* 

On  the  summit  of  the  hill  beyond  the  lake,  fresh  objects  of 
admiration  meet  the  eye,  in  a  vale  of  Italian  richness  below,  and 
ruined  towers  of  feudal  grandeur  above ;  but  ere  I  had  half 
studied  the  scene,  I  found  myself  in  the  little  town  of  Magione. 
"  The  ^Mansion,"  which  is  the  signitication  of  this  name,  is 
the  large  siiuare  yellow  building,  like  a  fort,  which  crests  the 
hill  a  little  above  the  present  railway  station. 

The  road  hence  to  Perugia  traverses  the  rich  vale  of  the 
Caina,  a  stream  which  seems  to  have  retained  its  Etruscan  name. ^ 
Perugia  is  seen  at  some  miles'  distance,  crowning  its  lofty  olive- 
f'irt  heitiiit  with  a  lony"  level  line  of  domes,  towers,  and  palaces. 
About  two  miles  before  reaching  it,  a  tower  with  a  few  houses, 
about  it,  by  the  road-side,  marks  the  site  of  one  of  the  most 
interesting  tombs  in  the  necropolis  of  Perugia;  which  will  be 
described  in  the  following  chapter.  The  site  is  called  La  Com- 
menda,  but  is  better  known  as  the  ''  Torre  di  San  Manno." 

Perugia  is  one  of  the  very  few  Etruscan  cities  that  retains 
anything  like  its  ancient  importance.  One  of  the  "heads  of 
Etruria"  of  old,  it  still  takes  a  prominent  place  among  the  cities 
of  Central  Italy.  Its  glorv  has  not  even  greatl}'  waned,  for  it 
is  yet  a  large  and  wealthy  cit}',  with  twenty-two  thousand 
inhabitants. 

At  the  railway  station  the  traveller  will  always  find  convey- 
ances to  the  town,  where  he  has  a  choice  of  accommodation — the 
Grand  Hotel,  outside  the  gates,  kept  by  P)rufani, — and  the  Posta,. 
in  the  heart  of  the  town,  where  he  will  find  cleanliness  and 
comfort  at  very  moderate  charges. 

It  is  not  for  me  to  describe  or  even  enumerate  the  manifold 

■•  Pliii.     II.     111. — Trasvmemun     lacum  Ictusqiie    Eetlierca   per   .stagna    patentia 

ansisse      totuiu Valerius       Aiitia.s  flamiiia, 

narrat.     It  is  a  pity  to  spoil  a  pretty  tale  ;  Fumavit  lacus,  atcjiie  arserunt  fluctibus. 

but  in  justice  to  the  pure  waters  of  the  lake  ignes    ■ 

it  must  be  said,  that  before  Pliny's  time,  both    making   a   mere    metaphor   of   what. 

Valerius  Ma.vimus  (III.  7,  6)  had  recounted  Antias  recorded  as  a  fact.     Strange  that  he 

it  among  Hannil)ars  great    deeds — Trasi-  should   have  found   a  Pliny  to  repeat  his 

menum  lacum  dirainustummemoria.  Silius  folly. 

Italicus  (V.  70-74)  also  made  Jupiter  cast  "  Caina    is   an   Etruscan    family   name, 

his  bolts  into  its  waters —  frequently  met  with   at    Perugia,    and  at 

Fulmina  Tyrrhcnas  Trasymeni  torsit  in  Chiusi   and  its  neighbourhood.      It  is  the 

undas  :  augmentative  of  Caie,  or  Caia  (Caius). 


l'*^cLLCvuH>u 


Os] 


tlbcJteTlai 
itntio 


10 


CHAP.  Lxi.]        THE    AXCIEXT    WALLS    AND    GATES.  417 

objects  of  interest  in  Perugia,  either  in  its  picturesque  streets, 
its  catliedral  and  five-score  churches,  its  grand  feudal  Palazzo 
Comunale,  or  in  its  treasures  of  architecture,  sculi)ture,  and 
painting.  Those  of  the  latter  art  alone,  the  works  of  Perugino 
and  the  ITnihrian  school,  are  so  abundant  as  generall}-  to  absorb 
Avhat  little  time  and  attention  the  traveller  glassing  between 
Florence  and  Rome  has  to  spare  for  a  provincial  cit}' ;  so  that 
few  give  an  hour  or  even  a  thought  to  the  antiquities  in  which 
Perugia  is  equally  rich,  or  at  the  most  paj'  a  hurried  visit  to  the 
IMuseum,  and  the  Porta  Augusta. 

The  walls  of  Perugia  are  in  manj-  parts  ancient,  agreeing  in 
character  with  those  of  Chiusi  and  Todi,  and  composed,  like 
them,  of  traveiiine — a  material  wliicli  preserves  the  sharpness  of 
its  edges  in  a  remarkable  degree,  so  as  to  give  to  a  structure 
composed  of  it  an  appearance  of  much  less  antiquity  than  it  reall}- 
possesses.  Some  portions  of  these  walls  are  fine  specimens  of 
ancient  regular  masonry.  He  wlio  would  make  the  tour  of  them 
should  put  himself  under  the  guidance  of  Giovanni  Scalchi,  one 
of  the  most  intelligent  ciceroni  I  have  met  in  Etruria.  On  the 
west  of  the  city,  especially  round  the  verge  of  the  deep  hollow 
called  La  Cupa,  the  walls  may  be  traced  for  a  long  distance, 
rising  to  the  height  of  twenty  or  thirty  feet,  falling  back  from  the 
perpendicular,  and  banded  near  the  top  with  a  projecting  fascia. 
Then  after  passing  the  Porta  di  San  Luca,  you  meet  them  again 
on  the  height  above  the  church  of  San  Francesco,  from  which 
point  they  continue  to  follow  the  line  of  the  high  ground,  beneath 
the  houses  of  the  city,  in  a  serpentine  coiu'se,  eastward  to  the 
Via  Appia,  below  the  Cathedral,  and  tlien  northward  round  to 
tlie  Arch  of  Augustus.  Beyond  this  their  line  may  be  traced 
by  detached  fragments  along  the  high  ground  to  the  east  and 
south,  at  the  Arco  di  Buoni  Tempi,  the  ^'ia  della  Viola,  and 
the  Via  della  Piazzetta,  after  which  a  wide  gap  occurs,  till  you 
meet  them  again  at  the  Porta  S.  Ercolano,  on  the  south  of  the 
city.  Here  is  a  portion  forty  or  fift}'  feet  high,  in  courses  of 
eighteen  inches,  very  neatly  joined — the  most  massive  masonry 
in  Perugia.  This  gateway  is  of  ancient  construction  as  high 
as  tlie  imposts,  whieli  now  support  a  Gothic  arch.  The  same 
may  be  said  of  several  other  ancient  gates  of  Perugia.  Above 
the  arch  projects  the  figure  of  a  lion  couchant,  the  old  emblem 
of  the  Guelphs. 

The  Arco  di  Bornia  and  the  Porta  Colonia  are  also  ancient, 
gatewaj's,  now  surmounted  by  Gothic  arches.     The  former  was 

VOL.    II.  E   E 


418  PERUGIA.— The  City.  [chap.  lxi. 

originally  spanned  hy  a  Hat  lintel  of  cuneiform  blocks,  like  the 
gates  of  the  Theatre  of  Ferento,  and  has  a  fuie  fragment  of 
ancient  walling  on  either  hand.  On  the  right  it  flanks  the 
approach  to  the  gate,  and  is  in  receding  courses ;  on  the  other 
hand  it  turns  at  right  angles  and  sinks  in  about  twent}'  courses- 
beneath  the  modern  buildings.^  The  mixture  of  ancient  and 
mediieval  masonry  and  architecture  in  this  gateway  renders  it 
highly  picturesque. 

The  Porta  Colonia  is  skew  or  oblique,  and  has  some  ancient 
masonry  in  front. 

The  Porta  di  San  Luca,  in  the  Piscinello,  is  now  spanned  by  a 
Gothic  arch  resting  on  much  earlier  fomidations  of  travertine 
masonry,  like  the  city-walls  by  its  side.  The  imposts  project, 
and  show  the  sockets  in  which  the  gates  originally  worked. 

The  Arco  di  Buoni  Tempi  shows  some  ancient  masonry  below 
a  Gothic  arch,  but  as  this  masonry  appears  to  have  been  rebuilt 
of  earlier  blocks,  it  is  probably  of  Roman  construction. 

The  best  i^reserved  and  the  grandest  of  all  the  ancient  gates  of 
Perugia  is  the 

Arco  r>'  Augusto, 

so  called  from  the  inscription,  avgvsta  peevsia,  over  the  arch. 
It  is  formed  of  regular  masonry  of  travertine,  uncemented,  in. 
courses  eighteen  inches  high  ;  some  of  the  blocks  being  three  or 
four  feet  in  length.  The  masonry  of  the  arch  hardly  corresponds 
with  that  below  it,  and  is  probabl}'  of  subsequent  date  and 
Roman,  as  the  inscription  seems  to  testify,  though  the  letters 
are  not  necessarily  coeval  with  the  structure.  The  arch  is  skew„ 
or  oblique ;  and  the  gate  is  double,  like  those  of  Volterra  and 
Cosa.''  Above  the  arch  is  a  frieze  of  six  Ionic  colonnettes, 
fluted,  alternating  with  shields  ;  and  from  this  springs  another 
arch,  now  blocked  up,  surmounted  by  a  second  frieze  of  Ionic 
pilasters,  not  fluted.  All  the  work  above  the  lower  arch  is 
evidently  of  later  date  than  the  original  construction  of  the  gate- 

^  The  largest  Ijlock  I  observed  was  5  feet  is  verj-  simple,  not  unlike  tliat  of  tlie  Port:i 

by  2;  very  small  in  comparison  with  the  di  Giove  at  Falleri.     In  one  of  the  spandrils 

colossal  masonry  of  Cortona.  there  seems  to  have  been  a  massive  head, 

'  The  gate  is  14  feet  G  inches  wide,  20  now  quite  disfigured  ;  in  the  other  a  pro- 
feet  4  inches  deep,  and  about  22  feet  from  jecting  stone,  though  not  in  a  corresponding 
the  ground  to  the  spring  of  the  arch,  the  position.  This  head  may  have  been  the 
keystone  of  which  will  consequently  be  keystone  of  the  original  arch,  which  the 
nearly  30  feet  from  the  ground.  There  architects  of  the  existing  structure  did  not. 
are  17  voussoirs.     The  moulding  i-ound  it  ciioose  to  replace. 


E   K   2 


CHAP.  Lxr.]  THE    AEPII    OF    AUGUSTUS.  421 

•\vay.^     The    entire    lieiglit    of  the   structure,   as   It  now  stands, 
cannot  be  less  than  sixty  or  seventy  feet. 

This  gate  stands  recessed  from  the  line  of  the  city-wall,  and  is 
flanked  on  either  hand  by  a  tower,  projecting  about  twenty  feet, 
and  rising,  narrowing  upwards,  to  a  level  with  the  top  of  the  wall 
above  the  gate.  The  masonry  of  these  towers,  to  the  height  of 
the  imposts  of  the  arch,  corresponds  with  that  of  the  gate  itself, 
and  seems  to  be  the  original  structure  ;  all  above  that  height  is 
of  a  later  period.  The  masonry  is  much  sharper  and  fresher  in 
appearance  than  it  is  represented  in  the  opposite  woodcut,  which 
in  other  respects  gives  a  faithful  representation  of  the  gate  and 
flanking  towers.'"* 

This  gate  still  forms  one  of  the  entrances  to  the  city,  though 
there  is  a  populous  suburb  without  the  walls.  Its  appearance  is 
most  imposing.  The  loft}'  towers,  like  ponderous  obelisks,  trun- 
cated— the  tall  archway  recessed  between  them — the  frieze  of 
shields  and  colonnettes  above  it — the  second  arch  soaring  over 
all,  a  galler}',  it  may  be,  wdience  to  annoy  the  foe — the  venerable 
masonry  overgrown  with  moss,  or  dark  with  the  breath  of  ages 
— form  a  whole  which  carries  the  mind  most  forcibly  into  the 
past. 

Another  ancient  gate  very  like  that  of  Augustus,^  is,  or  rather 
was,  the  Arco  Marziale  or  Porta  Marzia ;  for  what  is  now  to  be 
seen  is  the  mere  skeleton  of  the  gate,  which  was  taken  down  to 
make  room  for  the  modern  citadel.  But  to  preserve  so  curious 
a  relic  of  the  olden  time  from  utter  destruction,  Sangallo,  the 
architect,  built  the  blocks  composing  the  facade  into  a  bastion  of 
the  fortress,  where,  imprisoned  in  the  brick-work,  the}'  remain  to 
be  liberated  by  the  shot  of  the  next  besiegers  of  Perugia,  and 
seem  as  much  out  of  place  as  an  ancient  Etruscan  would  be  in 
the  streets  of  the  modern  citv. 


^  Caiiina,    Arch.  Art.    VI.    p.    f);').     He  tlie  arcli,  which  gives  the  wliole  a  resem- 

says  that  though  there  are  no  valid  docu-  blance  to  the  celebrated  (iate  of  Yolterra. 

ments  to  prove  this  gate  older  than  the  All  thi-ee  heads  are  of  dark  grey  stone,  the 

time  of  Augustus,  to  -tt-hioh  the  inscription  arch    itself    being    of    yellow    travertine, 

would  refer  it,  it  is  at  least  constructed  in  Above  this  is  a  frieze  of  six  jjilasters  alter- 

a  manner  similar  to   works  of   the   most  nating  with  figures,  instead  ot"  shields,  three 

ancient  times.  of  men,  and  t\vo  of  horses'  heads,  all  niani- 

'  Canina  (Archit.  Ant.  Y.   p.  96)  points  festly  Roman.  Overthisis  the  inscrii)tion — 


COLONIA    VIBIA; 


out  the  similarity  of  this  gate  to  an  ancient 
one  at  Antioch,  called  the  Gate  of  Medina. 

'  Like  that  it  has  a  projecting  head  in       '"^"'^   ''c'ow  the   frieze   is    also    the   same 
one  spandril,  and  the  remains  of  another  to       i'l^^oription  as  on  the  otlicr  gate  :— 
correspond,  besides  a  third  on  the  top  of  AVGVSTA    PERVSIA. 


422  PEEUGL\..— The  City.  [chap.  lxi. 

The  Museum 

is  in  the  X'niversity  of  Perugia  on  the  first  floor,  and  is  rich  in 
Etruscan  antiquities,  esi^ecially  urns,  inscriptions  and  bronzes — 
the  produce  of  the  necroj^olis. 

The  passage  leading  to  it  is  lined  with  copies  of  Etruscan 
inscriptions,  presented  in  1860  by  that  indefatigable  and  erudite 
explorer  of  the  early  antiquities  of  his  native  land,  Count  Gian- 
carlo  Conestabile.  The  ciistodc  Giovanni  Lupatelli,  who  is  him- 
self an  antique,  having  guarded  these  ancient  treasures  ever  since 
the  A'ear  1810,  is  to  be  found  on  the  ground  floor.  On  the  grand 
staii'case  is  an  Etruscan  sphinx,  and  at  the  top  a  pine-cone  with 
female  heads  projecting  from  foliage. 

The  Etruscans  of  Perugia  generally  burned  their  dead,  for  very 
few  sarcophagi  are  discovered  on  this  site.  The  cinerary  urns 
are  similar  to  those  of  Chiusi,  but  mostly  of  travertine,  though 
sometimes  of  nenfro,  or  a  similar  dark  grey  stone  ;  and  the  urns, 
it  may  be,  are  of  the  latter,  while  the  figures  on  the  lids  are  of  the 
fonner.  He  who  has  seen  the  ash-chests  of  Volterra  and  Chiusi, 
will  not  find  much  of  novelty  here  ;  indeed  the  interest  of  these 
urns  in  general  lies  as  much  in  their  inscrijitions,  as  in  their 
beauty  or  singularity.  Travertine  being  more  durable  than 
alabaster  or  nenfro,  the  urns  of  Perugia  are  generally  in  better 
presentation  than  those  of  Chiusi  or  Volterra.  They  are  arranged 
in  two  long  corridors.  After  the  descriptions  I  have  given  of 
Etruscan  urns  in  preceding  chapters,  it  would  be  superfluous  as 
well  as  tedious  to  describe  at  length  those  in  this  Museum.  I 
shall,  therefore,  not  attempt  to  do  much  more  than  to  point  out 
the  subjects  ;  and,  to  facilitate  reference,  I  shall  indicate  the 
nmnbers  with  which  many  of  the  urns  are  marked.  To  the 
monuments  of  most  interest,  detailed  descriptions  are  attached 
from  the  pen  of  the  Count  Conestabile. 

The  first  urn  that  meets  the  eye  shows  Scylla  contending  with 
Ulysses  and  his  companions  (325).  Another  of  this  subject  is 
numbered  347. 

Achilles  about  to  slay  Troilus  before  the  Sciean  gates  of  Tro}* 
— the  gates  being  at  the  ends  of  the  urn ;  Priam  endeavours  to 
protect  his  son.  The  nymph  of  the  fountain  is  thrown  to  the 
earth  beneath  the  horse  of  Achilles. 

Here  you  tm'n  into  a  long  corridor  flanked  on  each  side  by 
urns. 

The  sacrifice  of  Ij^higeueia,  who  is  held  over  the  altar  by  two 


CHAP.  Lxi.]  THE    ETRUSCAN    MUSEUM.  423 

men,  while  the  priest  pours  a  libation  on  her,  und  a  woman  hears 
in  her  arms  the  fawn  substituted  by  Diana.  This  subject  appears 
to  have  been  a  favourite  one  at  Perusia,  and  instances  of  it,  show- 
ing great  variety  of  treatment  and  (^f  artistic  excellence,  abound 
in  this  Museum. 

Combats  between  Greeks  and  Ama/.ons  (289,  295). 

A  winged  T^asa  seated  on  a  hippogrift"  (32o). 

Scylla  with  wings  holding  two  sea-monsters  b}'  the  reins  (329). 

Combat  between  Centaurs  and  Lapithre  (324). 

A  lion  conchant  on  a  rock,  crossing  his  paws  (327). 

Medusa's  head,  coloured  to  the  life,  with  wings  on  her  brows, 
and  snakes  tied  under  her  chin,  amid  blue  acanthus  foliage  (328). 
Another  of  the  same  subject,  recalls  Da  Vinci's  celebrated  picture 
(342). 

Hercules  contending  with  Glaucus  (331). 

A  boy  bestriding  a  marine  monster  and  belabouring  it  with  a 
pedum  (345). 

Two  naked  youths  riding  a  sea-horse,  one  playing  the  Pandean 
pipes,  the  other  a  lyre  (333). 

A  man  with  a  ploughshare,  attacking  a  woman  who  defends 
herself  with  a  footstool  (334). 

In  the  corridor  which  crosses  this  at  right  angles,  you  have, 
beginnnig  from  the  window  at  one  end,  the  following  urns  : — 

A  combat  between  men  on  foot  and  horseback  (295). 

The  Sacrifice  of  Iphigeneia  (285,  287,  294). 

A  man  armed  with  a  sword,  slaying  a  woman ;  probably  Orestes 
and  Clytaemnestra. 

Combat  between  Greeks  and  Amazons.  Two  of  the  former, 
Avho  have  taken  refuge  at  an  altar,  are  defending  themselves 
against  theii-  foes  (291,  298,  299,  300). 

A  human  figure  with  a  bear's  head  rising  from  a  well  is  con- 
tending with  two  armed  men.  A  winged  demon  Avith  a  torch 
stands  behind  the  monster,  and  holds  him  by  a  rope  fastened 
round  his  neck  (304). 

A  puteal,  of  travertine,  made  of  the  drmn  of  a  fluted  column, 
retaining  the  furrows  worn  b}'  the  ropes  of  many  ages,  and 
bearing  a  Latin  inscription,  showing  the  well  to  have  been  sacred 
to  j\Iars. 

Two  single  combats ;  each  pair  of  waniors  armed  with  peltce, 
and  fighting  over  a  womnn  on  her  knees  between  them  (289). 

Pollux  binding  Amycus,  King  of  Bithynia,  to  a  tree,  after 
vanquishing  hhu  with  the  cestiis  (288). 


424  PEEUGIA.— The  City.  [chap.  lxi. 

The  head  of  ^Medusa,  with  wings  on  her  brow,  and  a  pair  of 
snakes  knotted  on  her  head,  and  luider  lier  chin  (310,  351, 
358). 

A  woman  seated  on  a  throne  between  two  men  phiying  the  lyre 
and  double  pipes  (ol3). 

The  Chase  of  the  Calydonian  boar  (337,  338). 

Achilles  on  horseback  pursuing  Troilus,  who  rushes  to  Priam 
for  refuge  (297). 

Scylla  contending  with  Ulysses  and  his  companions. 

A  banquet  scene  (301). 

Paris  at  the  altar  defending  himself  from  his  brothers. 

Telephus  threatening  to  slay  the  young  Orestes. 

The  Death  of  G^nomaus. 

The  contest  over  the  body  of  Achilles. 

Tliis  Museum  affords  proof  that  the  Etruscan  modes  of  burial 
were  adhered  to,  after  the  city  had  become  a  dependency  of 
Rome ;  for  several  lu'ns,  truly  Etruscan  in  ever}-  other  respect, 
bear  inscriptions  in  Latin  letters  ;  though  a  native  character  is 
still  conspicuous  even  in  some  of  these. ^  One  of  them  (304)  at 
the  end  of  the  corridor  shows  a  doorway  flanked  by  two  children, 
and  is  inscribed  "L.  Pomponius  L.  F. 

Notus." 

Cabinet  of  Antiquities. 

Fu'st  Ivoom. — Here  is  an  inscription,  celebrated  as  the  longest 
yet  known  in  the  Etruscan  character,  having  no  less  than  forty- 
five  lines.  It  is  on  a  slab  of  travertine  three  feet  and  a  half 
high,  twenty-one  inches  wide,  and  ten  deep  ;  the  inscription  is 
on  two  of  its  sides,  and  the  letters,  Avhich  are  coloured  red,  do 
credit  to  Etruscan  carving.^  It  was  discovered  near  Perugia  in 
1822.  It  is  in  vain  to  guess  at  the  subject.  Sundry  attemjits 
have  been  made  at  interpretation,  among  which  is  one  Avhich 
pronounces  it  to  be  Avritten  in  choice  Irish,  and  to  be  a  notice  to 
mariners  about  the  voyage  across  the  Bay  of  Biscay  to  Carne  in 
Ireland  !  ^  A  notice  attached  to  it  states  that  VermigHoli  thought 
it  had  reference  to  agrarian  boundaries  ;  Orioli  held  nearly  the 
same  opinion ;  Secondiano  Campanari  took  it  for  a  religious 
ordinance  prescribing  certain  rites  and  ceremonies ;   Migliarini 

-  Such  as  "  Tliania.  Caesinia.  Yolumiii."  ■*  A  photograph  of  tliisinonuincnt  is  given 

— "L.  Pomponius  Efarsiniaj  Cnaius  ((ina-       Ijj  Count  Conestabile,  Mon.  Penig.  tav.  27. 
tus?)  Pia  " — "  L.  Volumni  Lai.  Theouiu.s."  ••  Etruria  Celtica,  I.  pp.  377-687. 


CHAP.  Lxi.]  ETRUSCAN   INSCEIPTIOXS— CIPPI.  425 

thought  it  must  he  funereal.  It  Imd  heen  tested  in  vain  hy 
Greek,  Ijatin,  Hehrew,  Erse,  Armenian.  All  that  Conestahile 
would  venture  to  say  was  that  it  was  of  the  latter  end  of  the 
lloman  Republic. ° 

Among  the  most  ancient  relics  are  two  small  square  cippi  of 
fetid  limestone,  like  those  of  Chiusi,  with  archaic  figures  in  low 
relief.  On  both  of  these  a  number  of  women  are  dancing  to  the 
music  of  a  snhulo ;  above  one  a  lion  is  reclining  on  each  side  ; '' 
above  the  other  a  sphinx  couches  at  each  angle  (281,  282). 

A  larger  cippus  of  grey  travertine,  in  the  middle  of  the  room,  is 
circular,  and  displays  a  death-bed  scene.  A  child  is  held  to 
embrace  the  corpse  of  its  parent — pyteficai  are  beating  their 
breasts  and  wailing  the  dead — many  other  figures  stand  Avitli 
theii'  hands  to  their  heads  in  the  conventional  attitude  of  grief — 
priests  and  augurs  with  chaplets  and  Utui,  are  gathering  round  an 
altar.^  On  this  monument  rests  a  tall  fluted  column,  termmating 
in  a  pine-cone,  and  bearing  a  funeral  inscription  in  Etruscan 
characters.^  There  are  other  singular  pillars,  cohmielhe,  of 
travertine,  two  or  three  feet  high,  all  bearing  sepulchral  inscrip- 
tions.^ Around  the  room  are  suspended  reliefs,  among  which 
one  in  marble,  representing  Eurojia  on  the  bull,  is  most  worthy 
of  notice. 

Second  Pioom. — The  walls  of  this  room  are  hung  with  copies 
of  the  designs  on  the  beautiful  Ficoronian  cista  from  Palestrina, 
the  glory  of  the  Kircherian  ^Museum  at  Rome ;  copies  of  the 
paintings  in  the  Tomba  Golini  at  Orvieto ;  and  of  the  decora- 
tions in  the  Tomb  of  the  Reliefs  at  Cervetri ;  and  on  the  shelves 
are  casts  of  some  of  the  most  beautiful  bronzes  found  in  this 
neighbourhood  in  former  years,  such  as  that  of  the  "  Hypnos," 
or  Sleep,  discovered  in  1856,  near  Civitella  d'Arna,  an  ancient 
site,  four  miles  from  Perugia,  a  copy  of  which  forms  the  heading 
to  this  chapter ;  ^  such  as  the  bronze  boy  with  a  htiUa   round  his 

'  See  Conestabile,  op.  cit.  pp.  511-535,  in  tombs.  In  Lydia,  tlie  traditional  mother- 

for   the    ^a^iolls  opinions  that  have  been  country  of  Etruria,   they  may  have  had  a 

broached  on  this  subject.  similar  application  ;    for  the   solitary  ter- 

''  Micali,  Ant.  Pop.  Ital.  tav.  58,  2.  mimis  of  the  five  which  Herodotus  (I.  93) 

^  Conestabile,  Mon.  Perug.  tav.  32-33.  tells  ussunnountedthetumulu=of  Alyattes, 

"  Inghirami,  ilou.  Etrus.  VI.  tav.   Z  2.  at  Sardis,  is  said,  by  Von  Prokesch,  to  have 

Conestabile,  op.  cit.  tav.  31.  that   form,    but   I    must   confess   I   never 

^  These  are   all    phallic.     Such   nionu-  could  perceive  the  resemblance,  although  I 

ments  abound  in  this  district,  especially  at  have  climbed    the    tumulus  at  least  fifty 

Chiusi.     That  they  were  sepulchral  there  is  times. 

no  doubt  ;    it  is  proved   both  by  the   in-  '  Arua,  where  this  beautiful  head  was 

scriptions  on  them,  and  by  their  discovery  found,  is  an  ancient  city,  some  four  miles 


426  PERUGIA.— The  (  ity.  [chap.  lxi. 

neck,  a  dove  in  his  liand,  and  an  ]-]truscan  inscription  on  his 
tliigh,  now  in  the  Gregorian  Museum  of  the  Vatican ;  and  such 
as  the  boy  and  dove  found  at  Cortona  and  now  in  the  INIuseum 
of  Ley  den.  Here  are  models  also  of  two  tombs  in  Sardmia,  one 
■circular,  the  other  of  passage-form  ;  together  with  many  celts  and 
arrow-heads  of  the  stone  period. 

The  Third  Eoom  contains  the  bronzes.  In  a  case  in  the 
centre  are  some  canddahra,  and  other  articles  in  this  metal, 
together  with  wreaths  and  other  ornaments  in  gold  from  the 
recent  excavations  at  Orvieto.  The  case  opposite  the  window 
<?ontains  numerous  lamiiKC  of  bronze,  Avith  figures  in  relief  in  a 
very  archaic  style  ;  some  of  them  the  adornments  of  a  votive 
car,  of  which  one  boss  of  a  wheel,  surrounded  with  figures  of  lions 
and  chimaras,  is  here  preserved.  Others  are  fragments  of  the 
decorations  which  covered  articles  of  wooden  furniture,  probabl}' 
of  a  sacred  character,  as  portable  altars,  or  lectisternia.  Among 
them  the  following  are  particularly  worthy  of  notice.  A  fragment 
beautifullj'  chiselled  in  the  best  style  of  archaic  art,  representing 
Hercules  drawing  his  bow  on  two  warriors,  probably  Giants,  w^ith 
<?rested  helmets,  spears,  and  circular  shields.  A  god,  it  may  be 
Jove,  or  one  of  the  nine  great  Etruscan  deities  who  wielded  the 
thunder,  grasping  a  man  by  the  hair  Avho  cries  for  mercy,  and 
tries  to  stay  the  impending  bolt.  A  Minotaur,  or  human  figure 
Avitli  a  bull's  head.  A  woman  in  a  long  talaric  chiton,  and  short 
tunic,  wearing  a  pointed  cap,  and  with  her  hair  hanging  behind 
to  her  waist,  carries  a  bough  over  one  shoulder,  and  an  dhihastos 
in  the  other  hand.  Hercules,  distinguished  by  his  lion's  skin 
and  bow,  shaking  hands  with  some  divinity  who  bears  a  four- 
pronged  sceptre.  A  fragment  of  a  winged  sphinx,  with  long 
hair,  covered  b}'  a  cap  terminating  in  a  tail,  like  a  fool's  cap. 
Another  sphinx  draped.  A  fragment  representing  a  h'tga,  the 
horses  and  charioteer  beinp:  wanting. 

There  are  also  many  little  deities  and  other  figures  in  bronze  ; 
some  of  very    archaic,    even    oriental    character.       Such   is    the 


from   Pcni^'ia,    on    the  Uiiibriau   l«nk    of  found    after   heavy    rains,    lirought    down 

the   Tilier,   which   retains    no    remains    of  from  the  country  inhind.     It  was  in  this 

.antiquity  beyond   fragments  of  its   walls,  river-bed  that  the  beautiful  Hypnos  was 

.and  some  ruins  of  Roman  times.      It  stands  discovered,  and  here  also  have  been  found 

•on  a  hill,  near  the  Tiber,  ea.st  of  the  I'onte  many  curious  objects  in  coral  and  amber, 

di    Val   de'   Ceijpi,   where   is   the   liamlet  now  preserved  in  the  collection  of  Signer 

called  Civitella  d'Anui.     The  hill  is  washed  Mariano    Guardab;\ssi,   of   Perugia.     Bull. 

by  the  Rio  Pilonico,  a  torrent  in  whose  bed  In.st.  1876,  pp.  92-100. 
objects   of    Etruscan    antiquity   arc   often 


CHAP.   LXI.] 


ETRUSCAN    BR0NZE:= 


421 


goddess  shown  in  tlie  uniioxed  -woodcut,  with  two  pairs  of  wings, 
a  tutidus  on  her  head,  and  a  dove  on  her  hand.     Another  has  a 
single    pair  of  wings    springing   fr(^ni    her 
bosom.     A  third  is  a  mermaid,  Avitli    hut 
■one  fish-tail,  instead  of  two  as  usual. 

All  these  relics  of  Ktruscan  toreutic  art, 
besides  others  now  at  JNIunich,  and  some 
reliefs  in  silver  in  the  British  ]\ruseum, 
were  found  in  1812,  at  a  spot  called  Castello 
di  S.  Mariano,  four  miles  from  Perugia,  a 
spot  celebrated  in  Perugian  annals  for  a 
victor}'  obtained  in  the  lifteenth  century 
over  a  band  of  British  cniidotticri.  They 
were  not  found  in  a  tomb  ;  which  makes  it 
probable  that  they  were  buried  for  conceal- 
ment in  ancient  times.-  Thev  are  supposed  to  have  been  the 
decorations  of  sacred  or  sepulchral  furniture.'^  There  are  also 
in  this  Museum,  some  fragments  of  a  curule  chair,  turned  in  an 
elegant  Greek  style,  resembling  the  rejiresentatious  of  furniture 
painted  or  carved  in  Etruscan  tombs. 

Of  other  articles  in  bronze  there  are  very  massive  handles, 
probably  of  censers  or  braziers — ponderous  hinges — helmets, 
some  with  cheek-pieces,  as  represented  on  the  native  monuments 
— spears — a  pair  of  greaves,  with  the  inscription  ''  Tutas,"  in 
Etruscan  letters,  on  each  *^ — patcrce,  pots  and  vases  of  various 
forms — strigils — ladles — strainers — armlets — -fihuUe — and  a  col- 
lection of  coins.' 


ETRUSCAN    FOUR-WIXGED 
GODDESS. 


-  For  descriptions  and  illustrations  of 
these  bronzes,  see  Venniglioli's  work,  Saggio 
di  Bronzi  Etruschi,  Perugia,  1813  ;  Micali, 
Ant.  Pop.  Ital.  III.  pp.  27-41,  tav.  28-31. 

^  They  have  been  supposed  to  liave  all 
formed  the  adornments  of  a  votive  car,  but 
Jlicali  (Ant.  Pop.  Itil.  III.  p.  40)  maintains 
th.'it  there  is  nothing  iu  the  form,  size,  or 
.subjects  of  these  articles  to  favour  that  view. 
Duplicates  of  many  of  them,  and  other 
works  in  bronze  and  silver,  equally  re- 
markable, discovered  on  the  same  spot,  are 
preserved  in  the  Glyptothek  at  Munich. 
The  reliefs  in  silver  with  gilt  adornments, 
now  in  the  British  Museum,  have  been 
illustrated  by  Millingen,  Auc.  Uned.  ^Mon. 
plate  14  ;  also  by  Micali,  op.  cit.  t;iv.  45. 

■*  Vermiglioli  (Giorn.  Sclent,  e  Letter,  di 
Perugia,  1840)  interprets  this  by  "defend 


me,"  deriving  it  from  the  old  Latin  verb 
tuto  used  by  Plautus.  Micali  (Mon.  Ined. 
p.  338)  agrees  with  him. 

*  Some  coins,  with  a  wheel  on  one  side, 
and  a  blpennit!  on  the  reverse,  with  an 
Etruscan  V,  are  attrilnited  to  Perugia  by 
the  Jesuits,  JIai-chi  and  Tcssieri.  /E.s  Grave, 
class.  III.  tav.  4.  ;  cf.  Melcliiorri,  Bull. 
Inst.  1839,  p.  123.  They  think  that  the 
wheel  show.s  the  dependence  of  this  city  on 
Cortona,  of  which  this  is  the  sole  type  ;  and 
tluit  the  battle-axe  is  expressive  of  the 
ancient  name,  whose  initial  is  also  marked 
—  "Verusia,"  or,  as  they  write  it,  "  Fe- 
rusia  " — which  they  derive  from  the  Latin 
ferio  ;  just  as  they  derive  "Tutere,"  the 
inscriiDtion  on  the  coins  of  Tuder,  now  Todi, 
from  tuclcK,  a  tundin(lo—im\>\ied  by  the 
club,  a  constant  device  on  those  coins.    But 


428  PERUGIA.— The  City.  [chap.  lxi. 

A  case  by  tlie  window  contains  some  beautiful  mirrors  and 
jewellery.  The  latter  being  more  generally  attractive,  demands  the 
iirst  notice.  Here  is  a  necklace  of  gold,  with  some  rings,  and 
one  magnificent  earring  of  elaborate  workmanship,  found  in  1869 
near  Perugia,  the  fellow  to  which  was  purchased  by  Castellani  of 
Home.     A  relief  in  ivory  of  Jason  carrying  off  the  golden  fleece. 

The  gem  of  the  mirrors  here  preserved  is  one  fomid  with  the 
earrings  and  some  beautiful  vases  in  a  little  tomb  at  Sperandio, 
to  the  north  of  the  city,  outside  the  Porta  S.  Angelo.  In  the 
centre  sits  a  majestic  bearded  figm-e  wearmg  a  wreath  of  ivy- 
leaves  and  a  large  necklace,  the  upper  part  of  his  body  bare,  and 
his  sandalled  feet  resting  on  a  footstool ;  and  it  hardly  requii'es 
his  elegant  thi'one,  and  the  long  sceptre  on  which  he  rests  his 
right  hand,  to  mark  him  as  a  monarch.  An  Etruscan  inscription 
designates  him  ''  Lamtux,"  or  Laomedon.  Piesting  familiarly 
against  his  knee,  with  her  legs  crossed  in  an  attitude  of  graceful 
repose,  stands  a  beautiful  girl,  wearing  rich  decorations,  but 
without  clothes,  save  where  the  skirt  of  her  mantle  covers  her 
left  thigh ;  and  with  her  elbow  on  the  king's  knee  and  supporting 
her  head  on  her  hand,  she  turns  towards  the  figure  of  an  armed 
but  semi-nude  youth  to  the  left  of  the  scene.  The  epigi'aph 
"Elinei,"  shows  her  to  be  "  the  lair-cheeked"  Helen,  and  that 
attached  to  the  youth  marks  him  as  her  brother  "  Kastue,"  while 
her  other  brother  "  Pultuke  "  stands  opposite.  Behind  the 
king  is  the  entablature  of  a  temple  or  j^alace,  sujiported  by  Ionic 
columns,  above  which  ^yeer  the  heads  of  a  woman  "Arn — ,"  and 
of  two  horses,  doubtless  indicating  Aurora,  although  that  goddess 
is  generall}'  designated  "  Thesan "  on  Etruscan  monuments. 
The  introduction  of  Laomedon,  the  old  king  of  Troy  and  father 
of  Priam,  into  a  scene  with  Helen  and  her  brothers,  can  only 
be  explained  either  by  supposing  a  blunder  on  the  part  of  the 
Etruscan  artist,  who  confounded  him  with  Tyndareus,  or  by 
regarding  the  epigraph  to  have  reference  not  to  the  name  but  to 
the  king!}'  rank  (Laomedon,  from  Aaos  and  fx^dcov)  of  that  per- 
sonage, who  was  clearh'  intended  to  be  introduced  into  this  scene. 
For  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  this  mirror  represents  Helen 
brought  back  to  her  father's  house,  after  having  been  carried  oft* 


this  system  of  referring  the  names  of  Etrus-  the  original   form   of  the   -n-ord.     Micali, 

can  cities  to   a    Latin    origin  is  more   in-  Ant.  Poj).  Ital.   I.  p.   140.     That  the  coins 

genioiis    than    well-founded.        "Peruse,"  with  the  legend  "  Peithesa,"  have  heeuerro- 

which  occurs  in  an  Etruscan  inscription  in  neously  attributed  to    Perugia,    has   been 

the  Museum  Oddi,  of  Perugia,  seems  to  be  already  stated.      I't  supra,  p.  72. 


CHAP.  Lxi.]  JEWELLERY    AND    MTRROES.  429 

to  Athens  b}'  Theseus  and  Peirithous,  and  rescued  h}'  her  brothers 
during  the  detention  of  those  heroes  in  Hades. 

Count  Conestabile  justly  boasts  that  this  is  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  and  interesting  mirrors  that  have  ever  issued  from  the 
soil  of  ]^]truria — worthy  of  comparison  with  the  exquisite  mirror 
of  Bacchus  and  Semele  now  in  the  Museum  of  Berlin,  an  illus- 
tration of  which  forms  the  frontispiece  to  this  book ;  and  as  the 
■work  of  an  Etruscan  graver,  betraying  the  full  influence  of 
Oreek  art,  he  would  assign  it  to  the  fifth  centur}^  of  Home.'' 

Another  beautiful  mirror  shows  "  Heecle,"  when  victorious 
over  Cerberus,  crowned  w'ith  laurel  b}'  a  semi-nude  goddess, 
named  "Mean,"  attended  by  another  named  "  Leinth,"  draped 
to  her  feet.  The  figures  are  inclosed  by  a  rich  deep  border  of 
palmetto  leaves  and  lotus  flowers." 

There  are  other  mirrors  of  inferior  beauty,  yet  of  great  interest. 
One  shows  Venus  ("Turan")  embracing  Adonis  ("Atunis"),  who 
is  here  represented  as  a  mere  boy,  looking  up  at  her  with  intense 
affection.  A  draped  female  figure  behind  the  goddess  seems 
to  be  resting  one  hand  on  her  shoulder.  She  is  named  "Lasa," 
but  has  no  attribute  to  distinguish  her  from  an  ordinar}'  woman. ^ 

Hercules  witli  lion's  skin  and  club,  standing  in  earnest 
conversation  with  a  youthful  warrior,  Avho  sits  on  the  edge  of  his 
shield,  as  he  holds  it  beneath  him  with  one  hand,  and  grasps  his 
spear  in  the  other.  This  youth  is  named  "  Pile,"  which  is 
supposed  to  be  an  Etruscan  form  of  lolaus  ;  ^  but  it  is  more 
probable  that  this  figure  is  intended  for  Peleus,  who  with  his 
brother  Telamon,  was  associated  with  Hercules  in  his  expedition 
against  Troy. 

"Mexrva"  vanquishing  the  giant  "Akrathe."  The  goddess, 
who  is  armed  with  helmet,  fegis,  and  spear,  has  just  cut,  or 
broken  off,  it  is  not  clear  which,  the  Giant's  riglit  arm  close  to 
the  shoulder,  and  grasping  it  by  the  wrist,  she  brandishes  it  over 
his  head,  accompanying  the  action  with  a  sardonic  grin  at  her  foe, 
who  sinking  to  his  knees,  looks  up  at  her  with  an  expression 
rather  of  astonishment  at  her  cleverness,  than  of  pain  or  terror.^ 

"  ]\Ion.  Perugia,  IV.  pp.   468-472,  tav.  Las  been  found  attached  to  tlie  figure  of 

106.     Bull.  Inst.  1869,  pp.  47-54.  lolaus  on  other  Etruscan  nionunient-s,  and 

'  Mon.  Perugia,   IV.  p.   4-35,  tav.  102  ;  hence  he  infers  that  "  Pile"  on  tiiis  mirror 

Gerhard,    Etrusk.   Spiegel.    II.    taf.    141;  is  hut  a  variation  of  that  name.     Op.  cit. 

Gotth.  d.  Etrusk.  taf.  o,  4.  IV.  p.  464,  tav.  102. 

'^  Mon.  Perugia,  IV.  p.  460,  tav.  lol.  •  Conestabile,   op.   cit.   IV.  id.   463,  tav. 

'  For  this  Count  Conestiibile  is  my  au-  102. 
thority,  who  states  that  "Vile  "  or  "  Vilae" 


430  PEEUGIA.— The  City.  [chap,  lxi, 

A  niiiTor  -without  inscriptions,  found  in  1865,  at  the  foot  of  the 
hill  on  ■which  Perugia  stands,  shows  Neptune,  naked,  sitting  on  a 
rock,  trident  in  hand.  Opposite  him  stands  a  beardless  figure  in 
an  attitude  of  repose,  holding  a  wand  or  sceptre  tipped  with  a 
pomegranate,  whom  Conestabile  takes  to  he  Theseus,  hut 
Gerhard,  Peloi)S.- 

Here  is  a  cast  also  of  a  most  interesting  mirror  discovered  in. 
this  necropolis  in  1797,  which  has  now  passed  to  the  Museum  of 
Berlin.  The  scene  it  bears  seems  to  set  forth  the  perils  of  the 
wild-boar  chase.  In  the  centre,  stands  Atropos  {"  Athrpa  "),  as 
a  beautiful  woman,  naked,  but  with  rich  decorations,  and  open 
wings  in  the  act  of  driving  a  nail  into  the  wall  over  the  head 
of  Meleager  ('' Meliacr  "),  below  whom  sits  the  fair  Atalante 
("Atlexta"),  of  whom  he  was  enamoured,  and  to  Avhom  he 
presented  the  skin  of  the  Calj-donian  boar,  which  hangs  on  the 
wall  behind  him.  The  driving  of  the  nail  is  emblematical  of  his 
doom  being  decided.  On  the  other  side  of  the  scene,  Venus 
("  Tu  ran  "),  stands  with  one  hand  resting  on  the  shoulder  of 
Atroi:)os,  while  with  the  other  she  caresses  a  j'outh,  doubtless 
Adonis,  who  sits  below  her,  and  whom  she  appears  to  be  charging 
to  take  warning  from  the  fate  of  Meleager."^ 

The  Fourth  Eoom  contains  Vases  and  Terra-cottas.  The  e3'e 
is  at  once  arrested  by  an  extraordinary  group  of  statuary  of 
life-size  in  the  centre  of  the  room.  An  Etruscan  of  middle  age 
is  reclining,  in  the  usual  costume  and  attitude  of  the  banquet, 
with  a  bossed  pliiala  in  his  left  hand,  and  his  right  resting  on  his 
knee.  At  his  feet  squats  a  hideous  old  woman,  stmited  and 
deformed,  Avhose  wmgs  show  her  to  be  a  demon.  She  seizes  one 
of  his  toes  with  her  right  hand,  and  grasps  his  right  wrist  with 
her  left,  turning  her  head  to  look  at  him,  yet  he  appears  to  be 
quite  unconscious  of  her  presence.  She  doubtless  represents 
the  Moii'a  or  Fate,  whose  touch  deprives  him  of  life.  The 
monument  is  from  Chiusi,  and  of  the  fetid  limestone  of  that  district. 
Both  heads  are  movable,  and  the  bodies  hollow,  proving  that 
this,  which  looks  like  the  mere  lid  of  a  sarcophagus,  is  itself  a 
cinerary  urn.* 

This  museum  is  much  richer  in  bronzes  than  in  x^ottery,  yet  it 
possesses  a  few  figured  vases  worthy  of  notice.  Such  is  an 
ami'hom  of  large  size,  five  feet  high,  in  the  later  style,  though 

-  Conestabile,     op.     cit.    IV.     i>.     474.        100.     Gerhard,  op.  cit.  III.  taf.  176. 
Gerhard,  Etrusk.  Spieg.  taf.  63.  •*  Ann.   Inst.    1S60,  pp.    346-8  (Concs- 

■*  Conestabile,  oj).  cit.  IV.  p.   4."  4,  tav.       labile)  ;  tav.  d'agg.  N. 


CHAP.  Lxr.]  YASES    AND    TEREA-COTTAS.  431 

■witliout  vavnisli.  Tlie  subject  is  Penelope  and  her  son  Tele- 
luachus ;  the  design  betrays  great  beaut}'  and  freedom,  par- 
ticularly in  the  figure  of  a  Avoman  behind  the  chaste  queen. 
Another  vase  in  the  same  style  represents  a  bridal-scene  — 
a  subject  often  found  on  vases,  though  rarely  on  unis  or 
sarcophagi.  A  stanmos,  with  red  figures,  shows  a  j-outh  vic- 
torious in  the  public  games  standing  between  Apollo  as  a 
citharu'dns,  and  a  nymph  with  the  double-pipes.  He  carries  a 
large  vase  of  the  same  form  in  his  hand,  the  reward  of  his 
victory.  This  was  found  in  18G9,  at  Sperandio,  in  the  same 
tomb  with  the  gold  earrings.  Another  stanmos  represents 
Achilles  among  the  Nereids,  who  bring  him  the  armour  and 
weapons  wrought  by  Vulcan.  Some  exquisite  little  vases  from 
Nola,  presented  by  Signor  Castellani  of  Eome.  There  are  also 
some  vases  in  the  earliest  style,  with  bands  of  animals,  black 
and  purple,  on  a  pale  yellow  ground. 

But  the  most  beautiful  vase  in  this  collection  is  a  Bacchic 
amphora  with  a  pointed  base,  decorated  with  red  figures.  The 
youthful  Dionj'sos  is  seated  in  the  centre 
of  the  scene,  half-draped,  with  thyrsus  in 
hand,  and  a  chaplet  of  ivy  leaves  round 
his  In'ow.  A  beautiful  woman,  doubtless 
Ariadne,  in  a  long  talaric  chiton  girt  about 
her  waist,  and  with  her  hair  falling  loosely 
on  her  shoulders,  though  bound  by  a  broad 
stephanc  over  her  forehead,  stands  by  his 
side ;  she  i)asses  one  arm  round  his  neck, 
and    regards    him   with    looks    of    intense  xvvvYyyj 

affection.     On    one    side   of  this   beautiful  ^<^ 

j)air,  a  njinph,  ch-aped  also  to  her  feet,  but  '^ 

with  a  ncbris,  or  deer-skin,  over  her  chiton,    ^^'phora  with  a  pointku 

'         ,  '  .  '  BASE. 

and  crowned  with  a  garland  of  ivj'-leaves, 

is  paying  attention  to  a  fawn.  On  the  other  side  a  Satyr,  naked 
save  that  a  nehris  is  tied  about  his  neck,  stands  looking  on, 
thyrsus  in  one  hand,  and  Icantharos  in  the  other,  resting  one 
foot  on  an  empty  amphora  with  pointed  base,  of  the  same  rare 
form  as  this  beautiful  vase.' 

As  beautiful  painted  pottery,  like  that  of  ^'uk•i  and  Tarquinii, 
is  very  rarely  found  at  Perugia,  it  seems  probable  that  it  was  not 
numufactured  on  the  spot.     The  ware  which  is  most  abundant, 

•"  For  an  illustration  and  tlesci-iption  of  VII.  tav.  70  ;  Ann.  Inst.  18(32,  pp.  24i- 
tbis  exquisite  vase,  see  Mon,  Inst.  VI.  and       265,  Helbig. 


432  rEEUGIA.— The  City.  [cuap.  lxi. 

is  unpainted,  of  black  or  red  clay,  sometimes  ^^•itll  archaic  figures 
in  relief,  though  not  in  the  st^'le  peculiar  to  Chiusi  and  its 
neighbourhood.'' 

Here  are  a  few  cinerary  urns  of  terra-cotta,  and  several  heads, 
portraits  of  the  deceased,  among  which  we  notice  one  of  a 
woman,  coloured,  and  very  archaic,  quite  oriental  in  character; 
«nd  a  Gorgcuieion  full  of  expression.  Here  is  also  a  large 
Roman  amphora  found  in  the  sea  at  Sinigaglia  and  incrusted 
Avith  shells. 

The  Fifth  Room. — In  the  centre  stands  a  ver}'  singular 
monument  discovered  in  a  tomb  near  Perugia,  1844.  It  is  a 
sarcophagus  of  cisjjo  with  reliefs  on  three  of  its  sides ;  those  at 
the  ends  re})resenting  figures  reclining  at  the  banquet,  one  with  a 
lyre  and  lAcctnim,  attended  by  slaves  ;  that  in  the  front  of  the 
monument  displaying  a  remarkable  procession,  which  demands  a 
detailed  description.  It  is  headed  by  a  man  with  a  wand, 
apparently  a  herald,  preceding  three  captives  or  victims  chained 
together  by  the  neck,  whose  shaggy  hair  and  beards  distinguish 
them  as  a  separate  race  from  the  rest — apparently  ruder  and 
more  barbarous.  Two  of  them  carry  a  small  situla  or  pail  in  one 
hand,  and  a  burden  on  their  shoulders,  which  looks  like  a  wine- 
skin ;  the  third  has  his  hand  fastened  by  the  same  rope  which 
encircles  his  neck.  The}'  are  followed  by  two  women,  with 
mantles  on  their  heads,  engaged  in  conversation  with  the  man  who 
leads  the  next  group.  This  is  composed  of  two  horses  or  mules 
neatly  laden,  attended  by  three  men,  the  first  Avith  a  spear,  the 
next  with  a  hoe  and  a  sword,  and  the  third  witliout  weai:)ons,  but 
in  an  attitude  of  exultation.  A  large  dog,  with  a  collar  round  his 
neck,  accompanies  these  figures.  Then  march  three  men  with 
lances,  one  with  a  burden  on  his  shoulder,  followed  b}'  two  others 
similarl}'  armed,  driving  a  pair  of  oxen  and  of  goats.  The 
subject,  from  its  position  on  a  sarcophagus,  has  been  supposed  to 
be  funereal,  and  to  represent  a  procession  of  victims  to  be 
sacrificed  at  the  tomb.  But  other  than  funereal  scenes  are 
often  found  on  such  monuments ;  and  there  are  great  dif- 
ficulties attending  such  an  interpretation.  It  seems  to  me 
much  more  satisfactory  to  suppose  that  it  is  a  return  from 
a  successful  foray.  There  are  captives  bound,  and  made  to 
carr\'  their  own  property  for  the  benefit  of  their  victors ;  their 
women  bcliind,  not  bound,  but  accompanying  their  lords;  their 

''  Micali  says  tlie  pottery  of  Perugia  is  so  fi^'ures,  tliat  it  is  not  worthy  of  notice, 
inferior,   especially  in    the    design    of   the       Mon.  Ined.  j).  217. 


CHAP.  Lxi.]  SINGULAR    SAECOPHAGUS.  433 

faithful  dog  following  tliem  into  captivity  ;  tlieir  beasts  of  burden 
laden  with  their  goods  ;  their  weai)ons  and  agricultural  imple- 
ments carried  by  one  of  their  guards ;  and  their  cattle  driven 
on  by  the  rest."' 

The  style  of  art  is  very  rigid,  yet  not  deficient  in  expression. 
It  has  much  of  an  oriental  character,  and  the  monument  is 
evidently  of  very  early  date.^  Dr.  Brunn  considers  it  to  be 
contemporary  Avith  the  earliest  paintings  in  the  tombs  of 
Tarquinii.  I  would  rather  say  there  is  nothing  in  those  tombs 
that  betrays  so  rude  and  primitive  a  period  of  art  as  these 
reliefs. 

B}'  tlie  window  stands  a  bust  of  the  Cavaliere  Giambattista 
Vermiglioli,  an  illustrious  son  of  Perugia,  who  devoted  his  long 
life  (ITfiO — 1848)  and  his  eminent  talents  to  the  study  and 
elucidation  of  her  monuments,  and  whose  mantle  was  most 
worthily  worn  i)y  his  biographer  Count  Giancarlo  Conestabile, 
until  he  also  was  taken  in  this  summer  of  1877.  I  had  the 
honour  of  making  the  acquaintance  of  the  venerable  Ver- 
miglioli in  the  early  days  of  my  Etruscan  studies,  and  retain 
n  grateful  remembrance  of  his  amiable  courtes}',  and  of  his 
readiness  to  assist  the  researches  of  the  young  foreigner  who 
disjilayed  interest  in  those  pursuits  to  w'hich  his  life  had  been 
devoted. 

On  the  slielves  around  this  room  are  many  urns  of  terra-cotta 
from  the  necropolis  of  Perugia,  most  of  which  show  the  trite 
subjects  of  Cadnuis  or  Jason  vanquishing  the  armed  men,  who 
sprung  into  being  from  the  dragon's  teetli  he  had  sown ;  or  of 
the  nnitunl  slaughter  of  the  Theban  Brothers.  But  a  few 
display  diti'crent  scenes.  One  shows  tlie  final  farewell  of  a 
married  pair,  standing  one  on  each  side  of  a  colunni.  Another, 
which  has  a  pretty  group  of  a  man  and  woman  reclining  on  its 
lid,  gives  a  version  of  that  mysterious  subject,  in  which  a  bear  or 
wolf  is  emerging  from  a  well.  Here  the  monster  has  a  man's 
head  covered  with  the  skull  of  a  bear,  he  wears  a  cJiI(i>in/s  over 

*  It  was  supposed  by  Melchion-i  that  this  tlie  tomb   to  the  manes  of  tlie  deceasetl, 

relief  represented  a  colony  going  forth  to  though  ingeniously  supported  (Ann.   Inst, 

fulfil  the  vow  of  a   "sacred  spring,"  ac-  1846,  p^i.   188-202),  does  not  solve  every 

cording  to  the  ancient  Italian  rite.     Bull.  difficulty,  and  I  therefore  offer  in  the  text 

Inst.  1844,  p.  42.     Vermiglioli  agrees  with  what  seems  to  me  a  more  likely  interpre- 

this  opinion.     Hull.    Inst.    1844,    p.    143.  tation. 

But  this  view  has  been  ably  shown  by  Dr.  ^  For  illustrations  of  this  singular  monu- 

H.  I'runn,  to  be  untenable  ;  yet  his  opinion  ment  see  Mon.  Ined.    Inst.  IV.  tav.   32; 

that  it  rei)resents  a  funeral  procession,  with  Conestabile,  Mon.  Perug.  tav.  39. 
human  and  other  victims  to  l)e  sacrificed  at 

A'OL.   n.  F   F 


434  PEEUGIA.— T][E  City.  [chap.  lxi. 

Lis  shoulders,  but  has  the  paws  of  a  wild  Ijeast,  with  one  of 
which  he  seizes  a  youth  by  the  haii-;  the  terror-stricken 
"bystanders  are  defending  themselves  with  stones ;  a  priest, 
distinguished  by  his  tutulns,  is  pouring  a  libation  on  his  head ; 
and  a  winged  Lasa  stands  behind,  and  apparently  holds  the  ropes 
■which  issue  from  two  holes  in  the  putcdL' 

Agamst  the  wall  are  two  fine  Medusa's  heads,  with  hair  instead 
of  snakes,  and  full  of  expression ;  a  very  singular  archaic  head  ; 
and  some  earlv  hncchero  ware  from  Chiusi. 


Perusia,  like  Cortona,  is  of  high  antiquity.  Justin  calls  it  of 
Achrean  origin  ;  ®  while  Servius  makes  it  appear  that  it  was  an 
Umbrian  settlement.^  Its  antirpiity  is  as  undoubted  as  its  fonner 
splendour  and  importance.^  That  it  was  one  of  the  Twelve 
cities  of  the  Etruscan  Confederation  is  established  by  abundant 
testimony  .- 

We  have  no  record  of  its  early  history.  The  first  mention 
made  of  Perusia  is  of  the  time  of  Fabius,  who,  after  having 
crossed  the  dread  Ciminian  forest,  is  said  by  some  traditions  to 
have  won  a  victory  over  the  Etruscans,  under  the  walls  of  this 
city — a  battle  which  is  more  generally  believed  to  have  been 
fought  at  Sutrium.  However  that  may  be,  as  Livy  remarks,, 
the  Romans  won  the  day,  and  compelled  Perusia,  Cortona,  and 
Arretium  to  sue  for  a  truce,  which  was  gTanted  for  thirty  years.^ 
This  was   in   4-44  (b.c.  310).     In  the  following  year,  however, 

'  For  an  illustration  see  ConestaLile,  op.  beyond  tbe  Apennines.     Servius  seems  to- 

cit.  tav.  7:>.     The  learned  Count  (lY.  pp.  hint  that  Perugia  ■was  founded  before  the 

216-221)  gives  tbe  different  interpretations  latter  city.     He  (ad  JEn.  X.   19S)  records 

or  suggestions    advanced    Ly   BuonaiToti,  another  tradition,    that    it  was  built  by 

Passeri,    Yenniglioli,    Inghirami,    Braun,  Aules,    father   or  brother  of  Ocnus,  ■who 

Newton,    and    Brunn   on  this  mysterious  founded  Mantua,  as  Virgil  tells  us.     SaU^ 

subject,    and   confesses  that  none   are   in  X.  2(>0. 
every  respect  satisfactory.  ^  Appian.  Bell.  Civ.  Y.  49. 

^Justin.     XX.     1. — Perusini     quoque  -  Appian  (loc.   cit.)  ex]n-essly  a-T-serts  it. 

originem  ab  Achteis  ducunt.  And  Stephanus  also  (v.  Utppaiaiov).     Livy 

^  Serv.  ad  .3in.  X.  201. — Sarsinates  qui  twice  cites   it  among   the   chief  cities   of 

Perusia;  consederant.     The  Sarsinates  were  Etruria — cajjita    Etruriie  — once    (IX.    37) 

an  ancient  L'mbrian  tribe,  who   inhabited  classing    it   with    Cortona    and   Arretium, 

the  Apennines.     Polyb.  II.  24,  7  ;  Strabo,  and    again    (X.    37)    with    Yolsinii    and 

Y.  jj.  227  ;  Plin.  III.  19  ;  Festus,  v.  Ploti.  Arretium  ;    here  calling  the  trio  —  urbes 

Cluver  (II.  p.  577)  hence  concludes  that  validissima;. 

PenLsia  was  built  long  prior  to  the  Trojan  ^  Liv.  IX.   37.     Diodonis  (XX.  p.  773)i 

war,  because  the  Umbrians,  when  driven  also  places  this  victoiy  at  Perusia. 
out  of  Etruria  l)y  the  Pelasgi,  built  Sarsina 


CHAP.  Lxi.]       IIISTOETCAL    NOTICES    OF    PEEUSIA.  435 

Periisia  joined  the  rest  of  the  Etruscans  in  opposing  the  power 
of  Home  ;  and  after  tlie  fatal  rout  at  the  Lake  of  Vadimon,  it 
still  held  out  till  Fabius  marched  against  it,  defeated  the  Etrus- 
can arni}^  under  its  walls,  and  would  have  taken  the  city  b}'  storm, 
had  it  not  surrendered  into  his  hands.'' 

We  next  find  Perusia  in  conjunction  with  Clusium,  in  the  year 
459,  opposing  the  proprietor  Fulvius  ;  but  the  confederates  were 
routed  by  him  with  great  slaughter.  Yet  this  defeat  did  not 
break  the  s\nvit  of  the  Perusians ;  for  no  sooner  had  the  consul 
Fabius  withdrawn  his  army,  than  they  excited  the  rest  of  the 
Etruscans  to  revolt ;  but  Fabius,  quickly  re-entering  Etruria, 
overcame  them  anew,  slew  4500  of  the  citizens,  and  captured 
1740,  who  were  ransomed  at  310  pieces  of  brass  each  man.^  Not 
3'et  even  did  the}-  relinquish  their  struggle  for  independence,  but 
in  the  following  year,  after  sustaining  two  other  defeats,  one  near 
Volsinii,  the  other  near  llusellse,  they  were  compelled,  in  con- 
junction with  Volsinii  and  Arretium,  to  sue  for  peace  ;  when  a 
truce  for  forty  3'ears  was  granted  them,  on  the  pa3'ment  of  a  lieav}'- 
fine.c 

At  wliat  precise  period  Perusia  fell  under  the  Poman  3'oke  does 
not  ai)pear,  but  it  must  have  been  soon  after  the  events  last 
recorded,  as  ere  the  close  of  the  fifth  century  of  Pome,  tlie  whole 
of  Etruria  had  lost  its  independence.  Perusia  joined  the  other 
cities  of  Etruria  in  furnishing  supplies  for  Scipio's  fleet  at  the 
close  of  the  Second  Punic  War ;  its  quota,  like  that  of  Clusium 
and  Puselhie,  consisting  of  corn,  and  fir  for  ship-building.^  It  is 
supposed  to  have  been  colonised  about  the  year  711,^  and  a  few 
years  after,  it  pla3'ed  a  consi^icuous  part  in  the  civil  wars  of 
Home  ;  for  Lucius  Antonius,  being  liard  pressed  by  Augustus, 
then  Octavius  Ciesar,  shut  himself  up  in  this  city,  which  the 
latter  besieged,  and  starved  into  surrender.  He  gained  little, 
however,  by  the  capture  ;  for  one  of  the  citizens,  in  despair,  set 
fire  to  his  house,  and  slew  himself  on  the  ruins  ;  and  the  flames 
spreading,  reduced  the  whole  city  to  ashes.''     It  was  afterwards 

■*  Liv.  IX.  40.  3  Except  a  temple  of  Vulcan.  The  citizens 

*  Liv.  X.  30,  31.  had  previously  been  accustomed  to  v.-orship 

''  Liv.  X.  37.  Juno,  according  to  tlie  rites  of  the  Ktruscans, 

'  Liv.  XXVIIL  ii).  Init  after  this  catastrophe  they  set  up  Vulcan 

^  This  inference  is  drawn  from  the  in-  in  her  place,  as  patron  deity  of  Perusia. 

scription  "Colonia  Yiljia "  on  the  ancient  Appian.    Bell.    Civ.    Y.     49;    Die    C;vss. 

gate  called  Porta  Marzia  ;  because  C.  Vibius  XLVIII.  14  ;  Florus,  lY.  H  ;  Yell.  Paterc. 

Pansa  Avas  consul  in   that  year.     Cluver,  IL  74;  Sueton.  Aug.  9,96;  Lucan.  I.  41 

IL   p.    578;  Cramer,  Ancient  Italy,  I.  p.  Scrv.  ad  Mn.  YI.  S33. 

219. 


436  PEEUGLV.— The  City.  [chap.  lxi. 

rebuilt,  and  colonised  afresh  by  Augustus,^  as  the  inscriptions 
over  its  gateways  testifv,  and  it  still  maintained  its  rank  among 
the  chief  cities  of  Etruria,  even  in  the  latter  da^s  of  the  lioman 
Emi)ire,  when  it  sustained  a  siege  by  the  Goths,  and  was 
ultimately  taken  by  Xarses." 

'  Dion  Cass.  loc.  cit.     It  is  subsequently  Tal>lc  on  tlie  Via  Ameiina.     See  Vol.  I.  ji. 

mentioned  as  a  colony  liy  Stnibo  (V.   i>.  111. 

226),  Pliny  (III.    8),  Ptolemy  (p.   72,  ed.  ^  Procop.  Bell.  Goth.  I.  IG  ;  IV.  33. 

Eert.),  and  is  placed  by  the  Peutingerian 


^/(^^/'//■//■M^^'VViYLVi^iti^ 


KALl'IS,    OR    WATER-JAR. 


KRATER    WITH    DECORATIONS    IN   RELIEF. 


CHAPTER    LXII. 

PERUGIA.— i'^/,'  U,S  [A . 
The  Cemeteuy. 

Hie  maxima  cura  sepulcri.s 
Imi)enilitiir.  I'RnDENTius. 

Piii  che  nou  credi  son  le  tombe  carche. — Dante. 

The  necropolis  of  Perusia  offers  a  rich  field  for  research  ;  and 
since  attention  has  been  directed  to  excavations  in  Etruria, 
numerous  tombs  have  been  brought  to  light.  This  is  principally 
owing  to  the  archaeological  zeal  of  the  late  Cavaliere  Yermigiioli, 
to  whom  it  is  also  due  that  many  of  these  sepulchres,  fortunately 
for  the  student  of  antiquity,  long  remained  in  ^tatu  quo,  uith  all 
their  urns,  just  as  they  were  discovered. 

CtKoTTA    DK'    VoLrXXT. 

First  and  foremost  in  magnitude  and  beauty,  and  rivalling  in 
interest  the  most  celebrated  sei)ulchres  of  the  land,  is  the  "Tomb 
of  the  Volunmii,''  which  no  one  avIio  visits,  or  even  passes  through 
Perugia,  should  omit  to  see.  It  is  easy  of  accomplishment,  for 
the  high  road  to  Rome,  as  well  as  the  railway,  passes  the  ver}' 
door.  It  lies  about  three  miles  from  Perugia,  in  the  slope  of  a 
low  eminence,  which  rises  at  the  base  of  the  lofty  height  on  which 


43S  PERUGIA.— The  Cemetery.  [ciiai-.  lxii. 

the  cit}'  stands.     Tlie  keys  are  kept  at  a  house  not  far  li\nn  the 
Grotta. 

You  descend  a  hjug  flight  of  steps  to  the  tomb,  now  closed  by 
a  door  of  wood :  the  ancient  one,  a  luige  shib  of  travertine,  which 
was  phiced  against  it — a  mere  "  stone  on  the  mouth  of  the  sepul- 
chre,"— now  rests  against  the  rock  outside.  You  enter, — here  is 
none  of  the  chill  of  the  grave,  but  the  breath  of  the  scirocco, — 
you  are  in  a  warm,  damp  atmosphere  ;  that  is,  in  winter,  when  it 
is  most  visited ;  in  summer  it  is  of  course  cooler  than  the  external 
air.  On  one  of  the  door-posts,  which  are  slabs  of  travertine,  a 
vertical  inscription  of  three  lines  in  Etruscan  characters  catches 
your  eye  ;  and  so  sliarpl}'-  are  the  letters  cut,  and  so  bright  is 
the  red  paint  within  them,  that  you  can  scarcely  credit  this 
epitaph  to  have  an  antiquit}'  of  anything  like  two  thousand 
3'ears.^ 

Daylight  cannot  penetrate  to  the  further  end  of  the  tomb  ;  but 
when  a  torch  is  lighted  you  perceive  j'ourself  to  be  in  a  spacious 
chamber  with  a  very  loft}'  roof,  carved  into  the  form  of  beam 
and  rafters,  but  with  an  extraordinarily  high  pitch ;  the  slopes 
forming  an  angle  of  45°  with  the  horizon,  instead  of  20°  or  25°, 
as  usual.-  On  this  chamber  open  nine  others,  of  much  smaller 
size,  and  all  empty,  save  one  at  the  further  end,  ojjposite  the 
entrance,  where  a  party  of  revellers,  each  on  a  snow-white  couch, 
with  garlanded  brow,  torque-decorated  neck,  and  goblet  in  hand, 
lie — a  petrifaction  of  conviviality — in  solemn  mockery  of  the 
]3leasures  to  Avliich  for  ages  on  ages  they  have  bidden  adieu. 

There  are  seven  urns  in  this  chamber,  five  with  recumbent 
figures  of  men,  one  with  a  woman  in  a  sitting  posture,  and  one  of 
a  peculiar  character.  All,  except  the  last,  are  of  travertine,  coated 
over  with  a  fine  stucco ;  they  are  wrought,  indeed,  with  a  skill, 
a  finish,  and  a  truth  to  nature  by  no  means  common  in  Etruscan 
urns.  The  inscriptions  show  them  all  to  belong  to  one  family, 
that  of  "Yelimnas,"  or  Yolumnius,  as  it  was  corrupted  by  the 
Ivomans.'^     Four  of  the  urns  are  very  similar,  seeming  to  differ 

^  The  inscription  on  tlie  doorpost  seems  tliemsclves.      The  initial  of  tlie    fifth  and 

to  be  a  general  epitaph  to  the  tomb.     It  last  words  may  possibly  be  a  ''  Ph."     See 

■would  be  thus  written  in   Latin  letters —  Conestabile's  learned   disquisition    on    this 

"Arnth  Larth  Velininas  Aruneal  Thusiur  inscription.      Mon.  Pcrug.  II.  pp.  9-35. 
Suthi  Akil  Theke."     It  seems  to  ini^jly  that  -  The  dimensions  of  this  central  chamber 

the  sepulchre  was  made  by  the  two  brothers  are  24  feet  long,    12  wide,  and  about   16 

Arnth  and  Larth  Yelimnas.     Of  the  rest  of  high — i.e.,  10  feet  to  the  top  of  the  cornice, 

the  inscription  it  were  vain,  in  our  present  and  6  in  the  pediment, 
ignorance  of  the  language,  to  give  an  inter-  ^  Miillcr  (Etrusk.   II.  j-i.   62)  thinks  the 

pretation  ;  thougli  analogies  readily  suggest  Volumna  mentioned  by  Augustin  (de  L'ivit_ 


CHAP.  Lxii.]     TOMB    OF    THE    YOLUMNII.— THE    URNS.  439 

in  little  be_y(ni(l  the  ages  of  the  men,  encli  of  whom  is  reclining, 
in  half-draped  luxuiy,  on  his  hanqneting-couch ;  but  here  it  is 
not  the  sarcophagus  or  urn  itself  which  represents  the  couch,  as 
is  generally  the  case  ;  hut  tlie  lid  alone,  -which  is  raised  into  that 
form,  hung  with  drapery,  and  supported  hy  elegantly-carved  legs, 
while  the  rccei)tacle  for  the  aslies  forms  a  liigh  pedestal  to  the 
couch.  On  the  front  of  each  of  these  ash-chests  are  four  imtcrce, 
■one  at  each  angle,  with  a  Gorgon's  liead  in  the  centre — no  hmger 
the  hideous  mask  of  the  original  idea,  but  the  beautiful  Medusa 
of  later  art — with  a  i^air  of  serpents  knotted  on  her  head,  and 
tied  beneath  her  chin,  and  wings  also  springing  from  her 
brows;' 

The  fifth  male,  who  occupies  tlie  post  of  honour  at  the  upper 
€nd  of  the  feast,  lies  on  a  couch  more  richly  decorated  than  those 
of  his  kinsmen,  and  on  a  much  loftier  pedestal.  His  urn  is  the 
grand  monument  of  the  sepulchre.  In  the  centre  is  represented 
an  arched  doorway,  and  on  either  hand  sits,  at  the  angle  of  the 
iirn,  the  statue  of  a  w'inged  Fur}',  half-draped,  with  bare  bosom, 
and  a  pair  of  snakes  knotted  over  her  brows.  One  bears  a 
flaming  torch  on  her  shoulder ;  and  the  other  probably  bore  a 
similar  emblem,  but  one  hand,  with  whatever  it  contained,  has 
heen  broken  off.  They  sit  crosslegged,  with  calm  but  stern 
expression,  and  eyes  turned  upwards,  as  if  looking  for  orders 
from  on  high,  respecting  the  sepulchre  they  are  guarding.     The 

Dei,  IV.   21)  is  identical  with  Yoltmnna,  artist  could  conceive  her.     See  the  wood- 

the  celebrated  goddess  of  Etruria  ;  so  also  cuts  at  pages  128,  221.     But  in  after  times 

Gerhard,  Gottheiten  der  Etrusker,  p.   35.  it  became  customary  to  represent  her  as  a 

It  is  certain  that  this  is  avery  ancient  Italian  "fair-cheeked  lass;"  indeed,  as  extremes 

name,  and  it  is  probably  Etruscan.     Varro  meet,  it  was  believed  that  it  was  her  mar- 

(Liug.  Lat.  V.  .')5)  speaks  of  a  "  Yoluni-  vellous  beauty,   not  her  hideousness,   that 

nius"  who  wrote  Etruscan  tragedies,  though  turned  beholders  into  stone.     Serv.  ad  Mn. 

Nicbuhr  (I.  p.  135,  Eng.  trans. )  says  that  II.  616. 

the    reading    of    the    Florentine     MS.  —  One  of  the  most  noble  Medusas  of  Greek 

"  Volnius  " — is  the  con-ect  one  ;  and  this  art  is  that  in  high  relief  in  the  Villa  Ludo- 

is  followed  liy  Miiller  in  his  edition  of  Varro.  visi,  at  Home,  where  the  Gorgon  is  repre- 

A  Lucia   Volumnia   is   mentioned   in   the  sented  as  a  woman  of  severe  and  grandiose 

songs  of  the  Salii  (Varro,  op.  cit.  IX.  61).  beauty  in  her  dying  moments.     No  wings 

The  wife  of  Coriolanus  is  well  ronembered.  on  her  brows,  no  snakes  about  her  head  ; 

Liv.   II.   40,     The  goddess  Velinia,  who  is  her  tresses  lie  in   heavy  snake-like  masses 

said  by  Varro  (V.   71)  to  have  derived  lier  on  her  neck  and  .shoulders,  her  eyes  .are 

name  from   the  lake    Velinus,    m.ay   have  closed,  but  her  last  sigh  has  yet  to  escape 

taken  it  from  the  same  source.  from  her  nnparted  lips.     For  a  descriptioa 

■•  Thecharacterof  these  heads  is  sufficient  and   illustrations  of  this  beautiful  nu.nu- 

to  prove  the  late  date  of  the  urns,  for  in  the  ment  of  the  Macedonian  period  of  Greek 

earlier   works    of   art,    Avhether   Greek    or  art    see    Ann.    Inst.    1871,    pp.    212-238 

Etruscan,  the  Gorgon  was   represented  as  (Dilthey)  ;    tav.   d'agg.   S.  T.  ;    Mon.   Inst, 

earfully  hideous  as  the  imagination  of  the  IX.  tav.  35. 


440  PERUGLV. — The  Cemetery.  [chap,  lxii 

archway  is  merely  marked  -with  colour  on  the  face  of  the 
monmiieiTt,  and  within  it  are  painted  four  women — one  with  her 
hand  on  the  doorpost,  and  eyes  anxiously  turned  towards  the 
Furies  outside — wishing,  it  would  seem,  to  issue  forth,  hut  not 
daring  to  pass  the  threshold  through  dread  of  the  stern  gaolers. 
The  whole  scene  has  a  mysterious,  1  )antesque  character,  eminently 
calculated  to  stir  the  imagination. 

The  sixth  urn  helongs  to  a  lady,  who  is  distinguished  from  the 
lords  of  her  family  by  her  position  ;  for  she  sits  aloft  on  her 
pedestal  like  a  goddess  or  queen  on  her  throne ;  indeed,  she  has 
been  supposed  to  represent  either  Nemesis,  or  Proserpine,''  an 
opinion  which  the  frontlet  on  her  brow,  and  the  owl-legs  to  the 
stool  beneath  her  feet  are  thought  to  favour.  This  is  more 
probably,  however,  an  effigy  of  the  lady  whose  dust  is  contained 
in  the  urn,  and  whose  name  is  inscribed  on  the  lid.  AVhy  she  is 
represented  in  this  jjosition,  when  it  was  customary  for  the  Etruscan 
women  to  recHne  at  banquets  with  the  other  sex,  I  do  not  presume 
to  determine.^ 

The  last  urn  is  of  a  totally  different  character  from  the  rest, 
3'et  not  less  interesting.  You  are  startled  on  beholding,  among 
these  genuine  Etruscan  monuments,  one  of  marble,  in  the  form 
of  a  Roman  temjile,  with  a  Latin  inscription  on  the  frieze ;  more 
especially  when  from  the  character  of  its  adornments  you  perceive 
it  to  be  of  no  early  date — apparently  of  Imperial  times,  or  at 
least  as  late  as  the  close  of  the  liepublic.^  But  while  you  are 
wondering  at  this,  j-our  eye  falls  on  the  roof  of  the  urn,  and 
beholds,  scratched  in  minute  letters  on  the  tiles,  an  Etruscan 
inscription,  which  you  perceive  at  once  to   correspond  with  the 

Eatin — 

P.  YOLYMXIYS  .  A  .  F  .  YIOLEXS 
CAFATIA  .  NATYS  . 

The  Etruscan,  in  Latin  letters,  would  be  "  Pup.  A'elinma  Au. 

*  Vermiglioli,    Sepolcro  de'  Yolunni,   p.  precisely  similar  to  that  of  her  kinsmen. 

42.     Feuerbacli,  Bull.  Inst.  1840,  p.   120.  "i  This  little  temple-um  ha-s  regular  ixo- 

Conestabile,  Mon.  Perug.  II.  pp.  97-99.  domon  masonry  marked  in  the  front,  with 

^  There  is  doubtless  an  analog}'  to  the  a  panelled  door  in  the  centre,  and   fluted 

sitting  female  statue  in  the  Museo  Casuccini  inlastei-s  somewhat  of  the  Corinthian  order 

at  Chiusi,  and  to  the  few  others  of  .similar  at  the  angles.     On  the  sides  and  back  are 

character,  mentioned  above.      See  pp.  299,  Roman    emblems,    such    as    houcrania   or 

31 4,    376.     She  is  robed  in  a  long  Ionic  bulls'  skulls,  sacrificial  v'UUe,  jxttcne,  jnx- 

cliiton  reaching  to  her  ankles.     Her  urn  is  fcriculu  ;  but  the  winged  ^Medusa's  heads 


CHAP.   I.XII.] 


BILINGUAL    INSCEIPTION. 


441 


Capliatial."^  That  is,  Publius  A^)luinnius,  son  of  Aulas,  by  a 
mother  named  Cafatia.  So  that  here  is  a  precise  corres})ondence 
between  tlie  inscriptions,  save  the  omission  of  "  Violens,"  the 
Etruscans  not  having  axjnomhui,  or  at  least  never  using  them  in 
their  epita])hs." 

But  look  at  tlie  ceiling  of  this  chamber.  It  has  one  large 
cofter  in  concentric,  recessed  squares,  as  in  certain  tombs  of 
Chiusi,  and   in  tlie  centre  is  an  enormous  Gorgon's  head,  hewn 


in  the  pcdhnents,  and  tlie  spliiiixcs  on  tlie 
roof,  as  acroteria,  mark  rather  an  ICtruscaii 
character. 

^  "Pup  "is  a  contraction  of  "  Piipli," 
or  Publius.  Cafatia,  written  "'Caphate," 
or  "  Capliate.s  "  in  Etruscan,  is  of  frequent 
•occurrence  at  Perugia.  Lanzi  thinks  it 
bears  an  analogy  to  Capua.  Sagg.  11.  p. 
358  ;  cf.  Bull.  Inst.  1841,  p.  16. 

"  The  Latin  inscription  on  this  urn  has 
been  pronounced  a  forgery  by  the  author  of 
"  Etruria-Ccltica,"  on  no  other  ground  than 
that  it  contradicts  his  fanciful  tlieories  of 
the  identity  of  the  Etruscan  and  Irish 
languages.  "  Velimnas,"  according  to  his 
interinetation,  would  mean  "lamentations 
of  women  ;  "  and  when  he  finds  a  bilingual 
monument  which  shows  it  to  be  merely  the 
Etruscan  form  of  Volumnius,  rather  than 
renounce  his  theory,  he  attempts,  in  tlie 
most  unwarranted  manner,  to  overcome  the 
ob.stacIe  by  declaring  the  Latin  inscription 
to  be  a  fraud,  and  expresses  his  surprise 
that  so  intelligent  a  scholar,  and  able  an 
antiquary  as  Verniiglioli,  could  be  deceived 
by  so  clumsy  and  palpable  a  forgery,  the 
form  of  the  letters  being  quite  sufficient  to 
declare  its  modern  origin.  Etruria-Celtica, 
II.  J).  2S9.  An  assertion  so  groundless, 
made  too  without  a  i)ersonal  acquaintance 
"with  the  monument,  naturally  excited  the 
indignation  of  those  whose  honour  was  thus 
gratuitously  impugned,  and  called  forth 
from  Cavaliere  Yei-miglioli  the  following 
well- merited  rebuke,  wliicli  I  give  in  his 
own  words  : — 

"  Non  ometterenio  alloia  un  quahrho 
esanie  suUe  troi)po  vaghe,  ai'bitrarie,  e 
nuove  interpretazioni  date  alle  epigrafi  de' 
Volunni  da  Sir  W.  IJetham,  nella  sua 
Etruria-Celtica,  pubblicatain  Dublino,  1842; 
echepotrebbe  segnare  anche  un' epocaassai 
rimarcabile  ne'  fasti  dclle  letteraric  .sti-a- 
nezze.  Noi  stessi  dovemmo  fare delle gramli 
meraviglie,  nel  vedere  come  1'  Autoie  di 


questanon  nuova,  maspeciosissiinai'irMria- 
Veltica,  non  avendo  altro  scainijo  da  soste- 
nersi,  ne'  suoi  jiaradossi,  ed  in  tanti  assurdi, 
si  decise  a  proclamare  falsa,  e  modernainente 
inventata  1'  epigrafe  latina  della  nrnetta 
mai'morea  bilingue,  ed  aggiugnendo  gen- 
tilezze  a  gentilezze,  nutre  facilniente  qualche 
compassione  per  noi,  che  ci  siamocosi  lasciati 
ingannare.  Questo  guidizio  azzardato  nni- 
caniente  come  a,  sostegno  di  assurdi 
chiarissimi,  olti'e  esser  falso,  come  mostre- 
remo  in  altri  tempi,  oti'ende  gli  scuopritori, 
ed  i  possessori  eziandio  di  quell'  insigne 
monumento,  quelli che incopiarono  1'  epigrafe 
latina uuitamente  a  tutte  le  epigrafi  etrusche 
nello  stesso  istante  del  loro  discuoprimento. 
— Guidizio,  che  non  si  legge  in  niun  libro, 
in  niuno  scritto  periodico  che  i^arlarono  di 
quella  toniba,  e  delle  nostre  esposizioni — 
guidizj  inutili,  per  non  dire  meudicati 
sospetti,  che  niun  ebbe  mai  fra  tanti  dotti, 
intelligenti,  ed  amatori  italiani  e  stranierr, 
che  visitarono  e  visitano  frequenteraente 
quel  singolare  oggetto  e  prezioso  della  vene- 
randa  antichith,  die  non  mai  vide  il  Sig. 
Betliam  ;  ma  nel  libro  di  Sir  W.  Betham, 
fra  tante  bizzarrie,  potea  esser  anche  questa. 
(ill  studj  archeologici  2)or  meritarsi  il  nome 
di  scienza  devono  diffidare  di  tutto  cio  che 
non  vien  loro  diniostrato  ;  ma  la  Tomba  de' 
Volunni,  i  monumenti  ivi  collocati,  rimasti 
senipre  nella  prima  lor  collocazioiie,  c  la 
piena  lor  integrita,  ed  il  lor  discuoprimento, 
di  quali  diniostrazioni  andavano  privi  ? 
Testimoni  oculari  in  grandissimo  numero 
(lie  vi  si  atfollarono  intoruo  pL>netrand(> 
inipazienti,  e  nello  stesso  gioriio  della  sua 
apertura,  quasi  negli  stessi  istanti  di  essa, 
e  tosto  che  se  ne  divulgo  la  voce  nella  cittui 
e  nei  luoghi  vicini  ;  onde  alia  nuova  e 
chvssica  scoperla  fu  data  subito,  ed  all' 
istante  una  imiiie<liata,  debita,  e  non  mai 
sospetta  pubblicita." — Scavi  Pcrugini,  1843 
—  1S44  ;  cf.  Bull.  Inst.  ISll,  p.  1 -1 1. 


442  PEEUGIA.— The  Cemeteey.  [chap.  lxii. 

from  the  dark  rock,  Avith  eyes  upturned  in  horror,  ^hnniiing 
from  the  gU)om,  teeth  hristhng  whitely  in  the  open  mouth,  -wings 
on  the  tempk^s,  and  snakes  knotted  over  the  hrow.  You  confess 
the  terror  of  the  image,  and  ahnost  expect  to  hear 

"  Some  whisper  from  that  hoiTid  mouth 
Of  strange  unearthly  tone  ; 
A  wild  infernal  laugh  to  thrill 

One's  marrow  to  the  bone. 
But,  no — it  grins  like  rigid  Death, 
And  silent  as  a  stone." 

Depending  hv  a  metal  rod  from  the  lintel  of  the  doorway,  hangs 
a  small  -svinged  genius  of  earthenware,  and  to  its  feet  was 
originally  attached  a  lamp  of  the  same  material,  with  a  Medusa's 
head  on  the  bottom.  A  similar  lamp  was  suspended  from  the 
•ceiling  of  the  central  chamber. 

Step  again  into  this  chamber,  and  observe  the  joediment  over 
the  inner  doorway.  Here  is  a  large  disk  or  circular  shield,  with 
a  head  in  relief  in  the  centre,  set  round  with  scales — a  head  which 
some  take  to  be  that  of  Apollo,  surrounded  witli  laurel  leaves, 
though  the  scales  are  as  likely  to  represent  solar  rays;^  others, 
that  of  Medusa,  on  the  scaly  shield  of  Minerva.- 

On  each  side  of  the  shield,  and  forming  witli  it  a  sort  of  trophy, 
is  a  curved  sword,  like  a  cimetar,  with  a  bird  perched  on  the 
hilt^ — a  figure  doubtless  of  symbolical  import,  but  not  of  easy 
explanation.  Below,  in  the  angles  of  the  pediments,  are  two 
busts  ;  one  of  a  peasant  bearing  on  his  shoulder  a  iwaIiuh,  or 
crooked  staff,  on  which  is  susjiended  a  basket ;  the  stick  termi- 
nating in  a  serpent's  head.  The  face  in  tlie  opposite  angle  is 
broken  away,  but  the  long  flowing  hair  is  still  visil)le  ;  and  behind 
it  is  a  Ij're  of  elegant  form,  surmounted  by  a  griffon's  head.  If 
the  face  on  the  shield  be  tliat  of  Apollo,  these  two  busts  may- 
represent  the  same  deit}'  in  his  pastoral  character,  and  as  the  god 
of  music  and  poetr}-.-^ 

1  Ycrmiglioli,    Sepolcri   de'   Volunni,  p.  no  other  instance  in  Etruria  of  a  shield  or 

■2"2.     Tlie  sun  is  sometimes  represented  as  disk  in  the  pediment  of  a  tomb  ;  but  such 

A  bead  in  a  disk  set  round  with  rays  ;  as  are  found  .sculptured  in  this  position  on  the 

■on  a  vase  described  in  Ann.   In.st.  1538,  p.  fa5ades  of  the  temple-tombs    of    Phrygia. 

•270  :  Mon.  Ined.  Inst.  II.  tav.  55.  See  Steuart's  Lydia  and  Phrygia. 

-  Feuerbach,   Bull.   Inst.    1840,  p.   11  !t.  ^  Swords  of  this  form  are  rare  in  ancient 

This  writer  considers  it  to  be  latlier  the  monuments.     Such  a  one,  however,  is  re- 

I^Ioon,  the   Symbol  of  night,  in  contradis-  presented  in  the  hand  of  a  figure  on  a  vase 

tinction  to  the  solar  rays,  decidedly  marked  from  Chiusi.     !Mus.  Cldus.  tav.  170.     See 

in    the    opposite    pediment.       So    tliinks  also  Vol.  I.  p.  201  of  this  work. 
Abeken,  Ann.  Inst.  1842,  p.  57.     There  is  •»  Abeken  (Ann.  Inst.  1842,  p.  59),  who 


CHAP.  Lxii.]  DECORATIONS    OF    THE    TOMB.  443 

In  the  pediment  at  the  opposite  end  of  this  chamber,  over  the 
entrance  door,  is  a  corresponding  disk,  or  shiekl,  but  -with  solar 
rays,  instead  of  scales.  It  is  too  much  broken  to  enable  you  to 
Ijerceive  if  there  has  been  a  liead  in  the  centre.  As  in  each  angle 
of  the  pediment  is  a  large  dolphin,  in  relief,  it  seems  to  represent 
the  sun  rising  from  the  waves — an  apt  emblem  of  resurrection. 
On  the  Avail  below,  on  one  side  of  the  entrance  to  the  sepulchre, 
iippears  to  have  been  carved  a  demon,  whose  sex,  attributes,  and 
attitude  are  matters  of  mere  speculation,  for  nothing  of  it  is  left 
beyond  an  open  wing — but,  ex  jjerfe  Herculem.  There  was 
l^robably  such  a  figure  on  each  side  of  the  doorway,  placed  there 
to  guard  the  sepulchre.'' 

On  each  side  of  the  entrance  to  the  inner  chamber,  a  crested 
snake  or  dragon  projects  from  the  rocky  wall,  darting  forth  its 
tongue,  as  if  to  threaten  the  intruder  into  this  sanctuary — 

Ardentesque  oculos  suffecti  sanguine  et  igni 
Sibila  lambebant  Unguis  vibrantibus  ora. 

These  reptiles  are  of  earthenware,  but  their  tongues  are  of 
metal;  and  it  has  been  thought  that  on  these  tongues  lamps  were 
suspended'' — an  unnecessary  supposition.  The  place  serpents 
held  in  the  mythology  of  the  Etruscans,  as  emblems  of  the  Furies 
and  infernal  demons,  explains  their  presence  here.  Below  one  of 
these  snakes,  just  above  the  level  of  the  pavement,  is  an  Etruscan 
inscription,  which,  being  on  a  stratum  of  sand-stone,  is  unfortu- 
nateh'  almost  obliterated. 

It  remains  to  notice  the  side-chambers,  of  which  there  are 
eight,  four  on  each  side.  They  seem  never  to  have  been  occupied, 
as  no  urns  were  found  within  them.  Some  of  them  are  still 
unfinished.  They  were  intended,  it  would  seem,  for  a  long  race 
of  posterity,  but  the  family  ma}-  have  become  extinct,  or  the}'  may 
have  been  merel}'  for  pomp,  just  as  a  palace  contains  many  super- 
fluous chambers.'^     The  four  inner  rooms  have,  each  a  bench  of 

takes  the  Medusa's  head  here  as  a  symljol  Etniscan  character,  a  serpent  was  painted 

of  the  Moon,  sees  in  these  figures,  two  Tri-  on  the  wall  almost  in  the  same  position  as 

tons,  which  correspond  to  the  dolphins  in  in  this  tomb  of  Perugia.     For  the  meaning 

the   opposite   i)edimeut, — bj'  no   means  a  of  serpents  in  tombs,  see  Vol.  I.  p-  169. 

satisfactory  explanation.  '   This  is  not  the  only  sepulchre  of  this 

'  Like  the  Charuns  at  the  entrance  of  family  discovered  at  Perugia,  for  another 

the  painted  tombs  of  Orvieto,  and  also  of  a  w;vs  opened  in  the  last  century,  near  the 

tomb  at  Chiusi.      I't  supra,  pp.  51,  330.  church  of  S.  Costanzo,   outside  the  walls, 

*  Vermiglioli,  p.   16.      Feuerbach,  Bull.  and  not  very  far  from  this  tomb.     Yenni- 

Inst.    1S40,  p.  lli>.     In  the  Sepolcro  de'  glioli,  Sepolcro  de'  Voluuni,  p.  5  ;  Iscriz. 

Nasoni    on    the    Flaminian   Way,    which,  Perug.  I.  jjp.  21-23. 
though  of  lloman  times,  has  much  of  the 


444  PEEUGIA.— The  Cemeteuy.  [chap.  lxii. 

rock,  and  U\o  have  Medusa's  heads  in  shiehls  on  the  ceiling,  and 
a  crested  snake  iirojecting  from  the  wall  above  the  sepulchral 
couch.  In  one  of  these  tombs  is  an  owl  in  relief  in  each  corner, 
and  a  snake's  head  in  the  middle  below. 

Besides  the  monuments  now  remaining  in  this  tomb,  certain 
articles  of  bronze  have  been  found,  such  as  ewers — a  helmet — a 
fragment  of  a  shield  embossed  with  figures  of  lions  and  bulls — a 
pair  of  greaves  beautifully  modelled — a  singular  spear  or  rod  with 
a  number  of  moveable  disks,  which  seem  to  have  been  rattled 
together.^  The}'  are  all  to  be  seen  in  the  chamber  just  within  the 
entrance  to  the  seimlchre. 

Before  leaving  this  tomb  we  must  say  a  word  on  the  inscriptions. 
Those  of  the  four  gentlemen  on  similar  urns  are,  taking  them  in 
the  order  of  theii*  arrangement, 

1 — "  Tliephri  Yelinnias  Tarchis  Clan." 

2 — "  Aule  Yelimnas  Tliejihrisa  Xuphrunal  Clan." 

3 — "  Larth  Yelimnas  Aules." 

4 — "  \e\.  Yelimnas  Aules." 
The  grand  urn  in  the  centre  has, 

5 — "  Arnth  Yelimnas  Aules." 
And  the  lady  is  called, 

G — "  Yeilia  Yelimnei  Arnthial." 
It  scarcely  needs  the  analogy  of  the  names  to  prove  these  of 
one  family,  the  likeness  in  their  effigies  is  obvious ;  yet  the 
precise  relation  in  which  they  stood  to  each  other  could  only  be 
set  forth  by  the  inscriptions.  Xo.  1  seems  the  most  venerable, 
the  progenitor  of  the  rest,  and  in  his  name  "  Tliei)hri,"  in  other 
inscriptions  written  "  Thepri,"  an  analogy  may  be  traced  to  the 
Tiber,  which  Hows  beneath  the  walls  of  Perugia,  and  Avhose  name 
is  said  to  be  Etruscan;  ^  just  as  the  celebrated  family  of  Yolterra 

^  It  hii-s  been  supposed  to  be  a  musical  former  as  being  called  after  Thebris  (the 

instrument   (Vermiglioli,  Sep.   Volunni,   p.  old  editions  have  Dehebris),  i)rince  of  the 

2i),  but  its  being  found  in  connection  with  Veientes  ;  by  the    latter   as  being  named 

armour  and  weapons,  seems  to  mark  it  as  after  Tiberinus,  king  of  the  Latins.     Varra 

of  militarj'  use,  and  it  was  probably  held  .seems  to   incline  to  the    Etruscan  origin, 

upright,   and  shaken  .so  as  to   rattle   the  l^ee  also  Festus,  s.   v.   Tiberis  ;    Serv.  ad 

plates  together  ;  and  thus  may  have  been  Virg.  iEn.  III.  500  ;  VIII.  72,  330. 
an  accomijaniment  to  a  band.     A  similar  Another   Etruscan  family  of  Perugia — 

instrument,  found  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Tins,  Tinia — bears  the  same  relation  to  the 

this    tomb,    and    also    in    company    with  Tinia,  a  streamlet,  the   "  Tin  ire  inglorius 

armour  and  weapons,  had  a  small  figure  of  humor"    of    Silius    Italicus    (VIII.    454), 

a  naked  man  dancing  on  the  top  of  the  rod.  which  falls  into  tlie  Tiber,  some  miles  below 

*  Varro    (Ling.  Lat.   V.    29,    30)    .states  this  city.      It  is  now  called    the    Topino. 

that  the  name  of  the  river  wits  claimed  Cluver,  II.    p.   700.     Its  ancient  name  is 

both  by  the  Etruscans  and  Latins, — by  the  doubtless  derived  from  the  Etruscan  Jove 


CHAP.  Lxii.]  THE    VELIMXAS    ]<\VMirA'.  445 

bore  the  name  of  the  river  Cfficina.  Thephri  then  will  be 
equivalent  to  Tiberius.  No.  2  appears  to  be  his  son/  and  the 
son  of  a  lady  of  the  Nuphruna  family,  and  is  certainly  the  father 
of  the  three  other  males — Larth,  Velus,  and  Arnth  Yelimnas. 
No.  6  appears  to  be  the  daughter  of  No.  5,  the  gentleman  who 
occupies  the  post  of  honour  in  this  tomb,  and  she  seems  from  her 
portrait  to  have  reached  "a  certain  age,"  and  in  spite  of  her 
nobility  and  wealth,  never  to  have  been  married,  for  no  matri- 
monial name  is  mentioned  in  lier  epitaph. 

As  for  the  gentleman  in  the  temple,  who  could  not  be  content 
with  the  fasliions  of  his  ancestors,  he  may  be  another  son  of 
No.  2  ;  as  his  fother's  name  was  Aide  ;  though  the  more  modern 
style  of  his  urn  makes  it  probable  that  he  was  later  by  a  genera- 
tion or  two  than  his  kinsmen. 

From  the  style  of  the  sculpture,  so  superior  to  that  gene- 
rally found  on  l^truscan  urns,  from  the  painting  also  on  the 
prmcipal  monument,  which  has  all  the  freedom  of  those  in  the 
Pumpus  tomb  at  Corneto,  as  well  as  from  the  style  of  the  reliefs 
on  the  ceilings  and  walls  of  this  sepulchre,  there  is  no  doubt  that 
it  is  of  late  date,  subsequent  to  the  lloman  conquest  of  Etraria, 
though  before  the  native  language  and  customs  had  been  utterly 
absorbed  in  those  of  world-wide  Rome.^ 

This  tomb  has  been  thought  to  bear  a  resemblance  to  a  temple ; 
to  me  it  seems  to  have  more  analog}^  to  a  Roman  house.  The  very 
arrangement  of  the  chambers  is  the  same.  The  doorway  answers 
to  the  ostium;  the  central  cliamber  to  the  cavccdlum;  the  recesses 
on  either  hand  to  the  ales ;  the  inner  chamber  with  the  urns,  to 
the  tahlinum  ;  the  other  apartments  around,  to  ilie  triclinia,  or 
cuVtcida. 

This  interesting  sej)ulclire  was  discovered  in  February,  1840. 
Fortunatel}^  for  the  traveller  it  is  the  property  of  the  Conte 
Bagiioui,  a  relative  of  the  venerable  Yermiglioli,  and  a  gentleman 

who  was  called  Tina,  or  Tin ia.    See  ^liillcr,  pliris,    the    filial    relation    being    further 

Etrusk.  I.  1).  420.  expressed  by  the  word  "  Clan." 

'  Thephrisa  has  not  the  usual  form  indi-  *  Yermiglioli  (p.  43)  considers  this  tomb 

cative  of  the  patronymic ;  the  termination  to  be  of  the  end  of  the  sixth  or  beginning 

*'sa"  or  "isa,"  being  usually  applied  to  of  the  seventh  century  of  Rome,  "  or  even 

females  to  mark  the  names  of  their  hus-  as  late  a.s  the  days  of  the  Empire. "     JUicali 

bands.     Yet  as  it  is  also  found  attached  to  (Mon.  Ined.  p.   154)  judges  from  the  style 

names,    which,    as  in  this   case,    are   un-  of  art  that  the  urns  must  be  of  tlic  time  of 

doubtedly   males,    it   can    here   hardly  be  the  Antonines.     But  Micali,  as  Dr.  Braun 

other  than  the  patronymic.     See  Miiller,  has  observed,  generally  jnits  his  foot  on  a 

Etrusk.  I.  p.  444.     "Thephrisa"  maybe  wrong  date.     Ann.  Inst.  1843,  p.  361. 
put  for  "  Theijhrisal,"  i.e.  the  son  of  The- 


416      •  PEEUGLA..— The  Cemetery.  [chap.  lxti. 

■wliose  love  of  antiquity,  and  zealous  research,  are  equalled  by 
his  good  taste. 

The  urns  already  described  are  those  proper  to  this  tomb.  I 
have  stated  that  the  side-chambers  were  emjjty,  and  such  was  the- 
case  when  it  was  discovered,  but  they  now  contain  many  urns 
from  the  tombs  in  the  neighbourhood,  which  used  to  be  exhibited 
in  the  Palazzone  Baglione  hard  by,  but  have  recently  been 
transferred  to  this  sei^ulclire,  which  is  thus  converted  into  a  little 
museum.  For  though  the  Grotta  de'  Yolunni  was  the  first 
sepulchre  discovered  in  this  hill,  many  others  have  been  sub- 
sequently opened  around  it;  the  entire  hill-slope,  in  fact,  is 
burrowed  with  them.  None  could  compete  in  size  or  beauty  Avith 
this  sepulchre,  yet  all  were  interesting,  when  they  still  retained 
their  urns,  and  because  they  j^roved  many  well-known  Roman 
families  to  have  been  of  Etruscan  origin.  The  greater  part  Avere 
quadrangular  chambers  rudely  hewn  in  the  rock  ;  of  others  it 
might  be  said,  they  "  shape  had  none,"  for  the}'  were  mere  caves 
hollowed  in  the  hill ;  one  was  in  the  form  of  a  rude  dome  with 
beams  slightly  relieved.  None  showed  the  internal  decoration, 
so  lavishl}'  bestowed  on  the  Grotta  de'  Volunni. 

The  monuments  in  them  were  all  urns  of  travertine — no 
sarcophagi ;  ft^r  it  does  not  appear  to  have  been  the  custom  at 
Perusia  to  bury  the  corpse  entire.  None  of  them  equal  those  in 
the  Grotta  de'  Yolunni  for  beauty  of  execution,  but  many  are 
more  varied  in  character,  and  almost  all  are  painted, — reliefs  as 
well  as  the  figures  on  the  lids, — and  the  colours  retain  much  of 
their  original  brillianc}'.  The  hues  are  black,  red,  blue,  and 
purple.  The  reliefs  are  sometimes  left  white,  or  only  just 
touched  with  colour,  while  the  ground  is  painted  a  deep  blue  or 
black;  and  the  ornaments,  frontlet,  necklace,  torque,  and  bracelets, 
as  well  as  the  armour  and  weapons,  are  often  gilt.  Gay  contrasts 
of  colour  were  aimed  at,  rather  than  harmony  or  richness.  In 
the  Grotta  de'  Volunni,  on  the  other  hand,  which  is  of  a  better 
period,  or  at  least  in  a  better  taste,  there  are  no  traces  of  colour 
on  the  sculpture,  except  where  the  lips  and  eyes  of  one  of  the 
recumbent  males  are  painted.^ 

These  tombs  belong  to  the  families  of  the  "  Ceisi,"  in  Latin 
Cffisius, — the  "  Yeti"  or  Yettius,— the  "  Petruni "  or  "  Patruni," 
in  Latin,  Petronius, — the  "  Pharu,"  answering  to  the  Barrus,  the 
Farrus,   or   possibly  to   the   Yarius   of  the    Pomans,'^ — and    the 

'  The  painted  scene  of  tlie  souls  in  tlie       on  the  flat  sin-face  of  the  monument, 
doorwaj',  described  above,  at  page  440,  is  *  Muratori,   p.    1462,   9 ;    p.    422,   12. 


CHAP,  i.xii.]  THE    BAGLIOXI    COLLECTIOX.  447 

"Acsi"  or  "Achsi,"  equivalent  to  Accins  or  Axius/'  These 
were  formerl}'  placed  under  lock  and  key,  but  of  late  3'ears  the}' 
have  been  closed  and  the  urns  they  contained  have  been  trans- 
ferred to  the  lateral  chambers  of  the  Grotta  de'  Yolunni,  and  to  a 
lar^e  one  excavated  in  the  rock  above  it.  The  contents  of  each 
tomb  are  no  longer  kept  distinct,  but  are  mixed  indiscriminately, 
and  are  now  only  to  be  distinguished  b}'  their  inscriptions. 

In  the  first  side-chamber  to  the  left,  as  you  enter  the  Grotta  de' 
Yolunni,  are  many  urns,  but  none  of  particular  interest.  In  the 
second,  is  an  urn  from  the  Veti  tomb,  representing  Thetis,  with  fan 
in  hand,  seated  on  a  hippocamp  or  sea-horse.  The  goddess  is  robed 
in  purple,  with  a  veil  of  the  same  hue ;  the  beast  is  white,  but  his 
feet  and  fins  are  gilt.  The  colouring  is  thrown  out  by  a  blue 
gi'ound.  The  third  chamber  on  this  side  contains  an  urn, 
which  shows  a  man  playing  a  flute  with  both  hands ;  another 
with  a  banqueting  scene  ;  and  a  third  with  a  winged  Lasa  riding 
a  hippogriff. 

Crossing  to  the  further  chamber  on  the  right-hand  you  find  an 
urn  Avith  the  hunt  of  the  Calydonian  boar,  and  another  with  a 
Latin  inscription.''  In  the  next  chamber  is  one,  highly  decorated 
with  colour  and  gilding,  showing  a  manied  couple,  reclining 
lovingly  on  the  lid  ;  he  has  a  patera,  she  a  gilt  vase  in  one  hand, 
and  a  naked  sword  in  the  other — the  only  instance  I  remember  of 
a  weapon  at  these  sepulchral  banquets.  On  another  is  the  oft- 
repeated  subject  of  the  sacrifice  of  Iphigeneia,  here  represented 
in  a  double  row  of  figures ;  in  the  upper,  the  maiden  is  being 
dragged  to  the  altar  to  the  music  of  the  double-pipes  and  l^-re ; 
in  the  lower,  a  priest  is  pouring  a  libation  on  her  head,  and  other 

Bull.  Inst.  1843,  p.  19  ;  cf.  24  ;  1844,  p.  was  also  an  Etruscan. 
137.  "  This  inscription  is  L  .  petroxivs  .  l  .  f  . 
^  Acsi  has  already  been  mentioned  as  an  noforsima.  ]\Iost  of  the  other  inscriptions 
Etruscan  proper  name,  when  tre:iting  of  are  singular  in  this  respect,  that  the  name 
the  Castellum  Axia  of  Cicero,  see  Vol.  I.  Tite,  or  Titus,  precedes  that  of  Petnini, 
pp.  184,  185.  But  we  have  the  name  also  not  as  the  'pramomen,  but  as  the  nomen  ; 
in  Roman  history,  for  the  augur  who  proved  e.g. — "'  Aule  Tite  Petruni,'"  in  which  case 
liis  prophetic  powci"s  to  Tarquinius  Priscus  it  seems  to  answer  to  the  gens  in  Latin 
by  cutting  the  whetstone  with  a  razor,  was  names,  though  such  a  distinction  has  been 
named  Attus  or  Accius  Navius.  Liv.  I.  36.  supposed  not  to  have  existed  among  the 
As  we  arc  expressly  informed  that  in  those  Etruscans.  In  the  s;ime  way,  in  others  of 
days  Etruscan  soothsayers  were  alone  con-  these  epitaphs  of  Perugia,  we  find  a  re- 
sulted in  Rome  in  cases  of  public  jirodigies  cuiTence  of  an  union  between  two  names — 
(Liv.  I.  5."),  .56),  we  are  authorized  to  con-  such  as  "Vibi  Alpha,"  "  Acuni  Casni," 
elude  that  this  celebrated  augur,  to  whom  a  "Cestna  Sminthi."  Bull.  Inst.  1841,  pp. 
statue  was  erected  in  the  Comitium,  was  an  15,  67.  For  notices  of  this  tomb  see  Bull. 
Etruscan.  Acca  Larentia,  the  nurse  of  Inst.  1843,  pp.  18,  2-3  ;  1844,  p.  136 ; 
Romulus  and  Remus,  be  it  remembered,  1845,  pp.  106-8. 


448  PERUGIA.— The  Cemetery.  [chap.  lxii. 

figures  are  bringing  iVuit  and  various  oiferiugs  to  the  slirine. 
There  may  have  been  some  resemblance  between  the  fate  of  the 
deceased  and  that  of  the  daughter  of  Agamemnon,  but,  however 
that  may  be,  I  have  observed  that  in  almost  every  case,  where 
this  subject  is  represented,  the  figure  on  the  hd  is  a  woman. 
Probably  the  Etruscan  j'oung  ladies  were  as  fond  as  those  of 
modern  days  of  old  tales  of  woe,  and  "  The  sorrows  of  Iplii- 
geneia"  may  have  been  as  popular  a  la}- with  them,  as  those  of 
"Werter  and  Charlotte  were  with  our  grandmothers.  In  the 
chamber  next  the  entrance  is  some  ancient  masonry  of  large 
blocks,  perhaps  concealing  an  inner  sepulchre. 

In  the  upper  chamber  at  the  entrance  to  the  tomb,  are  the  rest 
■of  the  urns  from  the  neighbouring  sepulchres,  arranged  in  tiers 
on  either  side  of  the  descending  passage.  One  shows  the  winged 
Scylla,  with  double  fishes'  tail,  brandishing  an  oar  over  the  heads 
of  two  warriors,  whom  she  has  entangled  in  her  coils.  In 
another  is  a  battle  between  Greeks  and  Amazons.  There  are 
several  with  a  grift'on  as  a  device  ;  one  remarkable  for  having  an 
eye  in  its  wing.  The  grifton,  be  it  observed,  is  still  the  crest  on 
the  arms  of  Perugia. 

Here  is  an  urn  with  warriors  marching  to  the  assault  of  a 
tower — a  romid  tower  too! — men  of  Ulster,  look  to  this! — behold 
a  new  bond  of  aflinity  between  Etruria  and  the  Emerald  Isle — a 
fresh  proof  that  the  ancient  people  of  Ital}'  were  worshippers  of 
Baal  or  of  Buddh ;  and  pardon  my  common-place  opmion  that 
the  scene  may  represent  the  "  Seven  before  Thebes."  The  trite 
subject  of  the  Sacrifice  of  Iphigeneia  is  also  here,  fineh'  executed 
in  high  relief.  Another  favourite  subject  is  the  Death  of  Polites, 
who  kneels  on  the  altar,  grasping  the  wheel  held  out  to  him  by  a 
woman  or  Lasa,  while  his  foe  rushes  on  to  slay  him ;  but  behind 
the  woman  is  a  snake  or  dragon,  and  at  each  end  of  the  scene 
stands  a  Furv  in  a  doorway,  torch  in  hand.  Of  the  death  of 
Troilus  there  are  several  representations.  Telephus  threatening 
to  slay  the  youthful  Orestes.  The  assault  on  Thebes,  with  a 
figure  of  Scylla  armed  with  an  oar,  at  each  end  of  the  urn.  A 
nuptial  scene.  Two  armed  men  riding  sea-horses.  Two  boys 
on  a  sea-horse,  playing  the  flute  and  the  lyre.  A  hii)pogriff 
overcoming  a  man,  A  magnificent  head  of  Medusa,  full  of 
expression. 

In  a  little  room,  just  inside  the  entrance,  are  vases  of  plain 
ware  in  great  variety  and  abundance,  and  a  few  bronzes  found  in 
these  tombs.     The  most  striking  vase  is  a  krater  of  large  size. 


CHAP.  Lxii.]    GP.EAT  TXTEREST  OF  THE  GllOTTA  VOLUNXr.      4-19 

with  heads  and  flowers  in  high  rehef,  i)ainted  but  not  varnished  J 
There  is  one  painted  vase  only  in  the  good  Greek  style,  repre- 
senting Jason  entering  the  jaws  of  the  dragon  which  guarded  the 
golden  fleece,  and  Hercules  caressing  Omphale.^  There  is  part 
of  a  curule  chair  of  bronze, — also  mirrors — coins — gold  orna- 
ments— a  pair  of  curling-irons ! — a  case  of  bone,  containing  articles 
for  the  toilet — and  the  lamps,  helmet,  greaves,  and  fragment  of 
the  embossed  shield,  found  in  the  Grotta  de'  Yolunni.^ 

Let  the  traveller  on  no  account  fail  to  see  the  Grotta  de^ 
Volunni.  If  my  description  has  failed  to  interest  him,  it  is  not 
the  fault  of  the  sepulchre,  Avhicli,  though  of  late  date,  is  one  of 
the  most  remarkable  in  Etruria.  To  me  it  has  more  than  a 
common  charm.  I  shall  always  remember  it  as  the  first  Etruscan 
tomb  I  entered.  It  was  soon  after  its  discover}^  that  I  found 
myself  at  the  mouth  (jf  this  sepulchre.  Never  shall  I  forget  the 
anticipation  of  delight  with  which  I  leapt  from  the  vcttnra  into 
the  fierce  canicular  sun,  with  Avhat  impatience  I  awaited  the 
arrival  of  tlie  keys,  with  what  strange  aw^e  I  entered  the  dark 
caveni — gazed  on  the  inexplicable  characters  in  the  doorway — 
descried  the  urns  dimh*  through  the  gloom — beheld  the  family- 
party  at  their  sepulchral  revels — the  solemn  dreariness  of  the 
surrounding  cells.  The  figures  on  the  Avails  and  ceilings 
strangeh'  stirred  my  fanc}'.  The  Furies,  Avith  their  glaring  eyes, 
gnashing  teeth,  and  ghastly  grins — the  snakes,  with  which  the 
walls  seemed  alive,  hissing  and  darting  their  tongues  at  me — and 
above  all  the  solitary  wing,  chilled  me  with  an  undeiinable  awe, 
with  a  sense  of  something  mysterious  and  terrible.  The  se})ulchre 
itself,  so  neatly  hewn  and  decorated,  yet  so  gloomy ;  fashioned 
like  a  house,  yet  with  no  mortal  habitant, — all  was  so  strange, 
so  novel.  It  was  like  enchantment,  not  reality,  or  rather  it  was 
the  realisation  of  the  pictures  of  subterranean  palaces  and  spell- 
bound men,  which  youtliful  fancy  had  drawn  from  the  Arabian 
Nights,  but  whicli  luul  long  been  cast  aside  into  the  lumber-room 
of  the  memory,  now  to  be  suddenly  restored.  The  impressions 
received  in  this  tomb  first  directed  my  attention  to  the  anticpiities 
of  Etruria.^ 

Many  other  tombs  have  been  opened  in  this  hill,  the  entire 

'   Sec  the  woodcut  at  p.  437.  liiiini,  with  the  hook  of  phites  ;  Iiull.  lost. 

8  Moil.  lust.  V.  tav.  IX.  2  ;  Mon.  Terug.  1840,  pp.   17-19,   Ikauu  ;    pp.    116-123, 

tav.  22,  3.  Feuerhach;  1841,  pp.  12-14  ;  Ann.  Inst. 

^  liuH.  Inst.  1841,  p.  1-1.  1842,    pp.    55,    59;    Count   Conestahilo's 

'  For  further  notii:es  of  this  tomb,  see  beautiful  and  learned  work  on  the  Monu- 

Vermiglioli's   pamphlet — Seiwlcro  de'   Yo-  meuti  di  I'erugia,  1855-1870. 

VOL.    II.  G    G 


450  PERUGIA.— The  Cemeteuy.  [chap.  lxii. 

slope,  indeed,  is  burrowed  with  them.  These  sepulchral  treasures 
accumulate  almost  too  fast  for  the  local  antiquaries  to  record 
their  contents.- 

The  hill  which  contains  these  sepulchi-es  lies  to  the  south  of 
Penisia.  Other  tombs  have  been  found  elsewliere,  near  the  new 
Campo  Santo,  and  also  close  to  the  city-walls,  Avhere  the 
Benedictine  monks  have  made  excavations.  The  necropolis  of 
Perusia,  however,  may  be  said  to  be  only  just  disclosed,  and  we 
may  entertain  the  hope  that  further  researches  will  prove  it  to 
be  of  an  extent  and  interest  commensurate  with  the  ancient 
importance  of  the  city. 


Tempio  di  Sax  Maxxo. 

This  tomb,  or  "temple,"  as  it  is  called,  lies  at  the  hamlet  of 
La  Commenda,  two  miles  from  Perugia,  on  the  road  to  Florence. 
You  enter  a  mean  building,  and  descend  a  flight  of  steps  into 
what  you  suppose  to  be  a  cellar,  and  find  j'ourself  in  a  vault, 
lined  with  travertine  masonry,  very  neat  and  regular,  but 
uncemeuted.^  The  vault  is  verv  similar  to  that  in  the  Casa 
Cecchetti,  at  Cortona,  and  to  the  Deposito  del  Gran  Duca,  at 
Chiusi,  but  is  much  more  spacious  tlian  either,  being  twenty- 
seven  feet  long,  by  half  that  in  width,  and  about  fifteen  feet  in 
height.^  About  half  way  down  the  chamber,  on  either  hand,  is  a 
recess,  also  vaulted,  in  one  of  which  stand,  in  the  inner  corners, 
two  blocks  of  travertine,  resembling  altars,  each  having  a  groove 
or  channel  at  the  upper  edge,  as  if  to  carry  off  the  blood.'  It  is 
this  which   has   caused  the  vault  to   be   regarded  as   a   temple, 

-  In  1S43,  Venniglioli  said  that  though  turnus)  was  opened  near  this  city  in  1822. 

he  had  ah-eady  published  more  than  500  Yermigl.  Isciiz.  Perug.  I.  pp.  262-3. 
Etruscan  monuments  ■«"ith  inscriptions,  he  ^  The  courses  are  from   1 2  to  1 8  inches 

had  still  above  140  waiting  for  jjublication.  in  height,  and  the  blocks  vary  in  length, 

IjuII.  In.st.  18-13,  p.  21.     Since  that  time  some  being  more  than  6  feet,  and  one  even 

their  number  has  greatly  increased.  7  feet  9   inches.     There  are  twenty-nine 

Among   these   tombs   are   those   of  the  voussoirs  in  the  vault, 
following  families — Petri — C:isni  or  Cesina  *  The  further  end  is  ojien,  or  rather  the 

— Sumi  —  Anani    (Annianus) — Luceti   or  original  wall  at  this  end,  if  there  were  one, 

Liceti — Upelsi — Suzi — Pumpuni     (Pompo-  has  been  destroyed,  and  the  vault  length- 

nius) — Vusi — Larcani  —  Apruti — Caphate  ened  out  with  brickwork  of  a  much  sub- 

(Cafatius)  —  Acune     (Aconius)  —  A'ama  sequent  age.      At    the    nearer  end,    the 

(Varus) — Vipi  (Vibius).     Bull.  Inst.  1844,  ancient  masonry  is  preserved,  but  has  been 

pp.  137,  et  seq.     A  tomb  of  the  Pumpuni  broken  through  to  make  the  doorway  by 

family  was  also  discovered  here  at  the  close  which  you  enter. 

of  the  last  century,  the  urns  from  which  *  These  recesses  are  6   ft.    6  in.   high  ; 

are  now  in  the  Museum.     A  sepulchre  of  about  6  ft.  deep,  and  rather  less  in  width. 
the|  family  Velthurna,   or  Velthumas  (Vol- 


CHAP.  Lxii.]         ETEUSCAX    VAULT    AT    S.    MAXXO. 


451 


though  I  think  it  was  more  probably  a  scpuh;hre,  both  from 
iinalogy "  and  on  account  of  its  subterranean  cliaracter.'  More- 
over, the  existence  of  an  altar  is  in  no  way  inconsistent  with 
the  supposition  of  a  tomb,  for  the  relation  between  tombs  and 
temples  is  well  known ;  and  a  shrine,  where  offerings  might  be 
made  to  the  Manes,  was  not  an  unfrequent  addition  to  ancient 
sepulchres.'* 

The  beaut}',  the  jjcrfection  of  the  masonry  in  this  vault,  not  to 
be  excelled  in  modern  times,  might  have  given  rise  to  doubts  of 
its  Etruscan  construction,  had  not  this  been  put  beyond  all 
question  b}'  an  inscription  in  that  language  in  large  letters, 
graven  deep  in  the  masonr}',  and  extending,  within  the  arch,  from 
one  end  of  the  vault  to  the  other.  There  are  three  lines,  and 
the  inscription,  for  length,  nisxy  rival  that  in  the  Museum  of 
Perugia.^  With  such  a  proof  as  this,  who  can  doubt  that  the 
Etruscans  knew  and  practised  the  arch, — and  who  sliall  throw 
suspicion  on  the  Etruscan  construction  of  certain  vaults  and 
arches  in  sepulchres  and  gates  in  this  land,  merely  on  account  of 
the  perfection  of  the  workmanship  and  excellent  preservation  of 
the  monuments  ?  This  vault  proves  that  such  things  may  have 
been,  and  heightens  the  probability  that  certain  of  them  were,  of 
Etruscan  origin. 

This  vault  has  been  open  for  ages  ;  indeed,  it  is  among  the 
best  known  of  Etruscan  sepulchres.  Yet  though  applied  to  base 
purposes,  it  has  received  little  injury;  probably  owing  to  the 
hardness  of  the  travertine. 


•^  Similar  altar-like  masses  exist  in  a 
sepulchre  at  Sovana,  and  also  in  tlie  Grotta 
■Cardinale  and  other  tomhs  at  Corneto. 

'■  Gori  (Mus.  Etrus.  III.  p.  81)  and 
Passeri  (ap.  eund.  III.  p.  100)  took  it  for 
a  sepulchre.  So  also  Abeken,  Mittelitalien, 
p.  250. 

^  The  analogy  and  connection  between 
temples  and  tombs  is  well  established. 
The  sepulchre  was  in  fact  the  shrine  of  the 
JIanes,  who  were  regarded  as  gods.     Virg. 


^n.  III.  63,  305  ;  IV.  457  ;  V.  48,  86. 
Arnobius  (adv.  Nat.  VI.  6,  7)  gives  numer- 
ous proofs  of  the  relation  between  temples 
and  sepulchres,  among  the  Greeks  and 
llomans. 

'  This  inscription  has  been  published  by 
Buonarroti,  p.  98,  ap.  Dempster,  II.  ;  by 
Gori,  Mus.  Etrus.  III.  class.  II.  tav.  V. ; 
Passeri,  ap.  eund.  III.  p.  107  ;  and  Lanzi, 
Saggio,  II.  p.  514.  Also  by  Conestabile, 
Monumenti  di  Perugia,  tav.  30. 


AMPHORA.         )']:i;l  KCT    STYLK. 

CHAPTER    LXIIL 

eo:me. 

Tidi  artes,  vetenimque  manus,  variisque  metalla 
Viva  modis.      Labor  est  auvi  memorare  figuras, 
Aut  ebxir,  aiit  dignas  digitis  contingere  gemiuas  ; 
Quicquid  et  argento  primum  vel  in  a;re  MjTonis 
Lusit,  et  est  experta  manus.  Statics. 

These  are  sad.  and  sepulchral  pitchers,  silently  expressing  old  mortality,  the  ruins  of 
forgotten  times. — Sir  Tho3ias  Browne. 

I  MIGHT  treat  of  Home  as  an  Etruscan  citj',  pointincf  out  fiicts 
both  in  lier  early  history,  and  in  lier  local  remains,  which 
authorise  us  so  to  regard  her.  But  this  Avould  lead  me  into 
too  discursive  a  field  for  the  limits  of  this  work,  and  I  am 
compelled  to  confine  myself  to  notice  the  Etruscan  relics  stored 
in  her  museums.  These  are  the  ]\Iuseo  Gregoriano  of  the 
Vatican,  the  Etruscan  !Museum  of  the  Capitol,  and  the  Kir- 
cherian  Museum. 

MUSEO    GEEGOEIANO. 

This  magnificent  collection  is  principally'  the  fruit  of  the 
partnership  in  excavations  established,  some  forty  or  fifty  j'ears 
ago,  between  the  Papal  Government  and  the  Signori  Camjoanari 
of  Toscanella ;  and  it  will  cause  the  memory  of  Gregory  XVI., 


niAr.  Lxiir.]  THE    GREGOEIAN    MUSEUM.  453 

Avlio  i\)r\var(k'(l  its  formation  witli  more  zeal  than  lie  ordinarily 
displayed,  to  be  honoured  by  all  interested  in  anti({uarian  science. 
As  the  excavations  were  made  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Vulci, 
most  of  the  articles  are  from  that  necropolis;  yet  the  collec- 
tion has  been  considerably  eidarged  by  the  addition  of  others 
previoush'  iii  the  possession  of  the  Government,  and  still  more 
by  subsequent  acquisitions  from  the  Etruscan  cemeteries  of 
Cervetri,  Corneto,  Bomarzo,  Orte,  Toscanella,  Perugia,  and  other 
sites  within  what  was  till  1870  the  Papal  State. 

As  no  catalogue  of  this  Museum  is  published,  the  visitor  is 
thrown  on  his  own  personal  stock  of  knowledge  or  ignorance,  as 
the  case  ma}'  be,  or  on  the  dim  and  dubious  enlightenment  of  the 
ciistodc.  I  have  therefore  considered  that  something  like  a  guide 
to  this  collection  would  be  acceptable ;  and  I  propose  to  lead  my 
readers  through  the  eleven  rooms  seriatim,  and  to  point  out  the 
most  remarkable  objects  in  each.  If  errors  should  be  found  in 
my  statements,  they  must  be  received  with  indulgence,  and  laid 
not  so  much  to  my  charge  as  to  that  of  the  authorities,  whose 
jealousy  forbids  a  visitor  to  make  a  note  within  the  Museum.^ 

Vestibule. 

Here  are  three  recumbent  figures  in  terra  cotta,  two  males  and 
one  fenuile,  the  size  of  life,  forming  the  lids  to  sarcophagi.  One 
of  the  men  is  decorated  with  a  chaplet  of  laurel,  a  torque,  and 
riiigs ;  the  woman  with  chaplet,  necklace,  earrings,  rings,  and 
bracelets.  The  position  of  two  of  these  figures,  stretched  on 
their  backs,  with  one  hand  behind  the  head,  and  one  leg  bent 
beneatli  the  other,  is  peculiar;  it  is  not  the  attitude  of  the 
banquet,  but  that  of  slumber,  or,  it  may  be,  of  satisfied  repose 
after  the  feast. — From  Toscanella,  the  site  most  abounding  in 
terra-cotta  articles.^  Opposite  the  door  is  a  large  sarcophagus 
of  nenfro,  with  a  relief  of  the  slaughter  of  the  Niobida^  b}'  Apollo 
and  Diana ;  the  same  monument  that  has  already  been  described 
in  the  chapter  on  Toscanella,  where  it  was  discovered.^  Two 
horses'  heads  of  nenfro,  found  at  the  entrance  of  a  tomb  at  Vulci ; 

>  This    was     strictly    foibiildoii     iiiuler  siiect    the    articles   minutely  !  "     Yet    the 

Gregory  XVI.    blatters  improved  somewhat  Vatican  boasts  of  encouraging  science  ! 
on  the  accession  of   Tins  IX.  ;  but  even  in  -  For  illustrations  see  the  work  entitled 

1876  1  was  ordered  by  the  head  custode  of  Museo  trregoriano,  I.  tav.  92. 
the  Vatican  to  i)ut  up  my  notes,  and  to  ^  See  Vol.  I.  p.  479,  and  the  woodcut  at 

keep  close  to  the  local  custodc  in  his  tour  of  ]).  i7'o. 
the  rooms,  as  "it  was  not  permitted  to  in- 


454  EOilE.  [chap,  lxiii, 

the  horse  among  the  Etniscans  being  a  sj-mbol  of  the  passage  of 
the  soul  to  another  world.  A  square  cinerary  urn  of  terra-cotta, 
with  a  rounded,  overhanging  lid,  from  which  rose,  like  a  liandle, 
a  small  head,  now  broken  off — the  portrait  of  the  individual 
whose  ashes  were  deposited  within. — From  Yeii.^  INIany  heads 
in  the  same  material,  portraits  of  deceased  Etruscans,  which  were 
placed  in  tombs,  are  now  embedded  in  the  walls  of  this  chamber. 
Turning  to  the  riglit  we  enter  the 

CHA^roER    OF    THE    ClNERARY    UrXS. 

This  room  contains  two  large  sarcophagi  and  a  dozen  or  more 
urns  of  alabaster  or  travertine.  One  of  the  sarcophagi  is  of 
marble,  and  has  on  its  lid  the  figure  of  a  man,  reclining  on  his 
back,  not  on  his  side  as  usual,  and  Avith  so  quaint  and  singular 
an  au-,  that  it  attracts  the  eye  at  first  sight.  The  figure  is 
di-aped  to  his  feet,  which  are  bare ;  his  flesh  is  coloured  red,  his 
hair  and  beard  are  painted  and  carefully  detailed,  his  head  is 
bound  with  a  chaplet  of  leaves,  and  he  is  decorated  with  armlets, 
a  necklace  of  large  buUce,  and  a  torque,  which  he  holds  with  one 
hand,  while  he  has  a  ijhiala  omphaloios  in  the  other.  Behind  his 
head  is  a  sphinx,  and  at  eaeh  shoulder  a  little  lion.  The  whole 
is  in  a  state  of  perfect  preservation.  In  its  material  and  in  its 
primitive  and  archaic  style  of  art,  so  unlike  the  rudely  carved 
figures  in  nenfro,  which  usuall}-  surmount  Etruscan  sarcophagi, 
this  monument  bears  a  strong  resemblance  to  those  of  the 
"  Sacerdote,"  and  "Magnate"  in  the  Museum  of  Corneto,  and 
to  those  in  the  Grotta  dei  Sarcofagi  at  Cervetri,  from  which 
tomb  it  has  in  fact  been  transferred  to  the  Vatican,  as  mentioned 
in  a  former  Chapter.'' 

On  the  sarcophagus  is  a  relief  of  a  number  of  figures  in 
procession,  headed  by  a  cornice n  or  trumpeter,  with  a  large 
circular  horn,  followed  by  others  with  a  litiius,  a  caduceus,  a  h-re, 
and  double-pipes  respectively.  Next  is  a  woman  talking  to  a 
man  behind  her,  and  these  seem  to  be  the  principal  figures,  for 
both  are  crowned  with  chaplets,  and  slie  is  decorated  Avith  ear- 
rings and  a  triple  necklace.  A  man  in  a  h'uja,  preceded  by  a  boy, 
brings  up  the  rear.  One  of  the  horses  is  painted  red,  the  othier 
is  left  Avhite.  The  flesh  of  the  men  tln-oughout  is  coloured  a 
deep  red ;  that  of  the  woman  a  i)alcr  hue.  The  hair  of  all  is 
yellow. 

*  See  Vol.  I.  p.  40.  *  Vol.  I.  p.  246. 


CHAP.  Lxin.]    MU8E0    GEEGORIANO— CINEEARY    URNS.  ioo 

Tlie  other  surco2)liagiis  is  of  noifro,  -witli  no  eflig}'  on  its  lid, 
but  its  relief  shows  a  figure,  i:)robably  a  magistrate,  in  a  hlga, 
preceded  by  two  men  carr^-ing  boughs,  and  one  with  a  thyrsus, 
and  followed  by  a  slave,  or  appdritor,  bearing  a  large  tablet 
under  his  arm. 

The  lu'iis  are  mostly  from  A'olterra.  They  bear  the  usual 
recumbent  effigies  on  the  lids,  ludicrously  stunted ;  most  are 
women,  and  hold  fruit,  a  scroll,  tablets,  a  fiin,  a  rhyton,  or  a 
phiala,  in  their  bands.  U'ho  principal  urn  is  at  the  upper  end  of 
the  room,  and  is  of  alabaster,  having  a  pair  of  figures  on  its  lid — 
the  wife  reclining  fondly  in  her  husband's  bosom.  The  relief 
below  shows  the  deatli  of  GSnomaus  overthrown  in  his  chariot. 
On  one  side  stands  Ilippodameia,  his  daughter;  on  the  other, 
Pelops,  who  had  brought  about  the  catastrophe.  Two  Avinged 
Junones  mark  this  as  a  scene  of  deatli.  As  regards  the  style  of 
art  this  urn  is  much  superior  to  those  around  it,  and  is  in  excellent 
preservation.'' 

The  other  urns  bear,  as  usual,  Greek  myths,  generally  with  a 
mixture  of  Etruscan  demonology.  Combats  of  Centaurs  and 
Lapitlue.  Cadmus  or  Jason,  armed  with  a  plough,  contending 
witli  the  teeth-sprung  warriors.  The  parting  of  Admetus  and 
Alcestis,  who  reclines  on  a  couch,  fan  in  hand.  Paris  taking 
refuge  at  the  altar  from  his  wrathful  brothers ;  the  palm-branch 
in  his  hand  indicating  the  prize  he  had  just  won  in  the  public 
games.  The  rape  of  Helen,  with  slaves  carrying  her  goods  on 
board  the  ships  of  Paris.  Acta-on,  torn  to  pieces  by  his  dogs. 
Iphigeneia  on  the  altar,  the  priest  pouring  a  libation  on  her 
head,  musicians  standing  around  to  drown  the  cries  of  the 
victim,  a  slave  bringing  in  the  hind  which  Diana  had  sent  as  a 
substitute.  On  the  lid  of  this  urn  is  no  recumbent  figure,  but  a 
banquet  of  small  figures  in  relief.  There  are  several  lu'ns  with 
scenes  emblematical  of  the  last  journey  of  the  soul,  represented 
as  a  figure  wrap})ed  in  a  toga,  seated  on  horseback ;  a  demon 
is  sometimes  leading  the  animal,  and  a  slave  follows  with  a 
burden.'' 

On  the  shelves  above  the  urns  are  more  heads  in  terra-cotta, 
interesting  as  specimens  of  Etruscan  portraiture  and  fashions 
of  wearing  the  hair.  One  has  the  lower  part  of  the  face  full  of 
minute  holes,  as  if  for  the  insertion  of  a  beard. 

•■  Museo  Grogoriano,  I.  tav.  95,  1. 

'  For  these  urus  see  Mus.  Gregor.  I.  tav.  93-9-5. 


456  EOME.  [chap,  lxiii. 

Chamber  of  the  S.ajicophagus. 

In  the  middle  of  this  room  is  a  Lirge  savcopliagus  of  noifro, 
found  at  Tarquinii  in  1834.  The  effig}"  of  the  venerable  Lucumo 
on  the  lid,  reclining  on  his  hack,  Avith  a  scroll  in  his  hand, 
recalls  the  monuments  of  the  middle  ages. 

This  sarcophagus  has  reliefs  on  all  four  sides.  One  shows  an 
filtar,  Avitli  the  body  of  a  woman  lying  on  it,  which  must  he  that 
of  Clytremnestra ;  for  the  corpse  of  --Egisthus  lies  on  the  ground 
hard  by,  with  tlie  avenging  pair  standing  over  it;  and  a  woman 
sits  mourning  below  the  altar,  who  may  be  Electra ;  while  in 
another  part  of  the  scene  Orestes  is  persecuted  by  Furies, 
brandishing  serpents.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  monument 
is  the  storv  of  the  Thebau  Brothers ;  here  engaged  in  alterca- 
tion; there  driven  by  a  torch-armed  Fury  to  their  destiny,  which 
is  set  forth  in  the  centre  of  the  relief,  where  the}-  are  dying  by 
€ach  other's  hands.  Their  father  (Fdipus  is  here  also  ;  led  away 
from  the  sad  scene,  he  encounters  a  Fury  similarly  armed.  A 
naked  female  figure  seated  on  a  rock  is  probably  Jocasta.  At 
one  end  of  the  monument  is  represented  a  human  sacrifice — a 
woman  being  thrust  on  an  altar,  and  stabbed  by  two  men — 
it  may  be  Clytsemnestra  immolated  to  the  manes  of  Agamemnon. 
At  the  opposite  end  Pyrrhus  is  about  to  slay  the  infant  Astyanax, 
in  the  arms  of  his  tutor,  avIio  has  vainly  borne  him  to  an  altar  for 
protection;  or  it  may  be  Telephus  threatening  to  kill  the  young 
Orestes.^ 

Ai'ound  the  room  are  arranged  the  following  objects — A 
marble  urn,  of  large  size,  in  the  form  of  a  couch,  on  which 
reclines  the  figure  of  a  youth.  The  legs  of  the  couch  are 
prettily  carved  with  mermaids,  and  the  frieze  above  shows 
Cupids  chasing  geese,  all  in  sharp  relief.  A  half-draped  female 
statue  in  neufro.  A  semicolossal  head  of  Medusa  in  the  same  stone, 
with  snakes  tied  under  the  chin.  A  slab  with  a  bilingual  inscrip- 
tion, Latin  and  Umbrian,  on  both  sides. — From  Todi,  Two 
busts  of  great  beauty — one  of  a  youth  with  a  garland  of  flowers, 
in  nenfro;  the  other  of  a  maiden  in  terra-cotta.  A  beautiful 
frieze  in  the  same  material,  with  the  heads  of  a  young  man  and 
woman  in  high  relief  and  coloured,  each  Hanked  by  a  pair  of 
genii  or  Cupids,  and  surrounded  hy  flowers  and  foliage.  This 
charming  architectural  fragment  has  more  of  a  Greek  than 
Etruscan  character,  and  probabh'  came  from  Magna  Grnecia. 

^  For  an  illustration  see  ilus.  Grc'ror.  I.  tav.  96. 


CHAP.  Lxiii.]  MUSEO    GEEGOEIANO— ALBAN  HUT-URNS. 


457 


In  tlie  c'oi-ncrs  of  this  room  are  some  small  chicraiy  urns  of 
pottery,  in  the  form  of  rude  hnts  of  skins,  stretched  on  cross- 
poles.  They  still  contain  hurnt  ashes ;  and  were  found,  together 
with  a  mnnber  of  small  pots,  lamps,  rude  attempts  at  the  human 
figure,  fihiihe,  knives,  and  liinceheads,  in  a  pitJio^,  or  large  jar  of 
■coarse  brown  earthenware,  such  as  stands  in  this  chamber,  and  is 


aa 


HUT-UKX    AND    OTitER    ARTICLES    OF    I'OTTKRV,     FROM    THE    ALBAN    MOUNT, 


represented  in  the  annexed  woodcut.^  These  were  fouiul  many 
years  ago  on  the  Alban  Mount;  and  analogy  marks  them  as  of 
very  high  antiquity — the  sepulchral  furniture  of  the  earliest  races 
of  Italy,  prior,  it  is  probable,  to  the  foundation  of  llome.^ 


'■'  Tlie  ;iljovo  vood-cut  slinws  a  section  of 
one  of  tlic  large  jars,  containing  one  of  the 
hut-ui'ns,  and  a  variety  of  vessels  of  the 
same  material  around  it.  The  \irns,  how- 
ever, are  not  always  so  found,  Imt  are 
Bometinies  separate.  Some  are  marked  with 
curious  figures  in  relief,  which  have  been 
supposed  to  be  Oscan  characters,  Ijut  are 
mere  decorations. 

'  These  remarkable  urns  were  first  found 
:n  1817  at  Montecucco,  near  Marino,  and 
»lt  Monte  Crescenzio,  near  the  Lago  di 
Castcllo,  beneath  a  stratum  ol  pcjKrino,  IS 
inches  thick.  They  wei'c  embedded  in  a 
yellowish  volcanic  ash,  and  i-ested  on  a 
lower  and  earlier  stratum  of  pcpcrino.  The 
ujiper  stratum   being   broken   through  to 


jilant  vines,  disclosed  these  large  pots  with 
their  contents,  as  represented  in  the  above 
wood-cut.  As  the  Etruscan  s?pulchral 
monuments  were  often  imitations  of  temples 
or  houses,  these,  which  have  a  much  i-uder 
structure  as  their  type,  the  shepherd's  hut 
of  skins,  indicate  a  far  earlier  origin  ;  a 
view  confirmed  by  the  very  primitive  art 
displayed  l>y  all  the  objects  found  with 
them.  The  aslies  tliey  contain  are  probably 
those  of  tlie  inhabitants  of  Alba  Longa, 
which,  if  we  may  believe  tradition,  stood 
on  the  ridge  surrounding  the  lake.  At 
fii-st  these  hut-urns  were  regarded  as  of 
antediluvian  antiquity,  for  it  was  asserted 
that  so  far  back  as  history  extends,  the 
volcano  had  beou  extinct,  and  the  crater 


45S 


ROME. 


[chap,  lxiii. 


Chamber  of  Terra-Cottas. 

In  the  centre  of  this  room  stands  a  beautiful  terra-cotta  statue 
of  Mercury,  with  jjc'frts«s  and  caduccus,  found  at  Tivoli,  and  of 
Roman  art.  There  are  also  three  fragments  of  female  statues 
in  terra-cotta,  from  Yulci.  Genuiueh*  Etruscan  also  is  the 
small  figiu-e  of  a  youth  lying  on  a  couch.  From  the  gash  in 
his  thigh,  and  the  hound  at  his  bed-side,  he  is  commonly  called 
Adonis  ;  but  it  may  be  merely  the  effigy  of  some  young  Etruscan, 
who  met  his  death  in  the  wild-boar  chase.     His  tlesh  is  coloured 


filled  with  water,  which,  during  the  siege 
of  Veil,  overflowed,  and  gave  occasion  to 
the  cutting  of  the  celebrated  Emissary,  in 
the  year  3oS  of  Rome.  But  on  reference  it 
was  found  that  Livy  (I.  31)  had  recorded 
volcanic  action  in  the  Alban  ilount  in  the 
time  of  Tullus  Hostilius,  and  it  was  re- 
membered that  whatever  records  of  such 
disturbances  may  have  been  preserved  in 
the  Roman  archives  were  destroyed  by  the 
Gauls,  when  they  burnt  the  City  in  the 
year  365.  It  was  ascertained  also  that 
Livy  mentions  frequent  volcanic  disturb- 
ances in  Latium  at  a  much  later  date — that 
he  records  no  less  than  ten  eruptions  as 
occurring  between  the  years  536  and  5S5. 
On  viewing  the  question  from  a  geological 
as  well  as  from  a  historical  point  of  view, 
it  was  seen  to  be  quite  possible  that  ages 
after  the  burial  of  these  ancient  Albans,  an 
eruption  may  have  occurred,  of  which  no 
record  has  come  down  to  us,  which  may 
have  deposited  a  bed  of  2>(pe>'ino  over  this 
necroi)olis.  For  peperino  is  composed 
simply  of  volcanic  ashes  and  lapiUi,  thrown 
up  with  enormous  quantities  of  hot  water, 
so  as  to  form  a  mud,  which  coats  the  slopes, 
and  when  dry  and  indurated,  constitutes 
the  rock  of  that  name.  After  a  time,  the 
genuineness  of  the  discovery  was  called  in 
question  ;  it  was  asserted  that  these  sepul- 
chral relics,  whose  high  antiquity  was 
generally  admitted,  though  denied  by  some 
who  ascribed  them  to  the  northern  bar- 
barians that  invaded  Italy  in  the  fifth 
centurj-  of  our  era,  by  others  who  saw  in 
them  the  work  of  Swiss  soldiers  in  the  Papal 
service,  must  have  been  placed  beneath  the 
peperino,  either  for  greater  security,  or  to 
puzzle  the  antiquaries.  In  1866,  there- 
fore, a  party  of  Italian  savants,  comprising 
men  eminent  as  antiquaries  or  geologists — 


Fiorelli,  Rosa,  Pigorini,  Ponzi,  De  Rossi 
— visited  the  site  for  the  express  purpose 
of  settling  this  question,  and  they  unani- 
mously came  to  the  conclusion  that  the 
relics  had  been  deposited  prior  to  the  for- 
mation of  the  volcanic  stratum  under  which, 
they  were  discovered.  De  Rossi  afterwards 
continued  researches  on  the  spot,  and  found 
traces  of  an  extensive  necropolis  covering  a 
large  area,  in  which,  wherever  he  broke 
through  the  superincumbent  crust  of 
peperino,  he  discovered  similar  remains  at 
the  depth  of  from  1  to  lA  metre.  The 
question  then  as  to  the  genuineness  of  the 
discoveiT  was  completely  set  at  rest.  In 
1871,  two  of  these  hut-urns  were  found 
inclosed  in  small  structures  of  peperino, 
like  dolmens  or  cromlechs  in  miniature, 
composed  of  several  upright  slabs  support- 
ing a  cover  stone — very  similar  on  a  small 
scale  to  the  sepulchres  of  Satumia,  de- 
scribed at  p.  282,  and  also  to  certain  tombs 
discovered  at  Marzabotto,  near  Bologna.  A 
still  more  startling  discovery  was  made  of 
several  specimens  of  the  (es  grave,  or 
earliest  coined  money  of  Italy,  either  in- 
closed in  the  mass  of  peperino,  or  found 
beneath  it.  Illustrations  of  these  curious, 
tombs  and  their  contents,  and  of  the  said 
money  with  a  helmeted  liead  on  the  obverse, 
and  a  female  head  on  the  reverse,  are  given 
in  Ann.  Inst.  1871,  tav.  d'agg.  U.  Momm- 
sen  ascribes  the  as  grave  to  the  time  of 
the  Decemvirs,  or  the  year  305  of  Rome  ; 
others  cari7  it  back  to  the  time  of  Servius 
Tullius,  while  Helbig  i>ronounces  the  art  of 
the  particuhu-  heads  in  question  to  mark 
them  as  later  than  the  age  of  Pheidias. 
Bull.  Inst.  1871,  p.  3S.  For  further  in- 
formation on  this  interesting  subject,  see 
Bull.  Inst.  1871,  pp.  34-52  ;  Ann.  Inst. 
1871,  pp.  239-279. 


CHAP.  Lxni.]  MUSEO    GEEGORIANO— TERRA- COTTAS. 


459 


red,   liis    drapciT   purple,    and    tliat   of  tlie    couch,   blue.     This 
sepulchral  urn  was  found  at  Toscanella,  in  1834.^ 

There  are  several  small  urns  of  the  same  material,  similar  to 
those  often  described  in  Etruscan  museums,  and  Avith  the  usual 
subjects  coloured.  The  mutual  slaughter  of  the  Theban 
Brothers.  Cadmus  or  Jason  slaying  the  teeth-sprung  Avarriors 
with  a  plough.  Scj'lla,  represented  according  to  the  Greek, 
rather  than  Etruscan,  idea — having  a  double-tail  terminating 
in  dogs'  heads.  Trmiks  and  limbs  of  the  human  frame ;  some 
for  containing  the  ashes  of  the  dead,  others  votive  offerings ; 
a  baby  swaddled  in  the  modern  Italian  fashion ; '''  antefixce  and 


ETRUSCAN    PORTRAIT,    I.\    TERRA-COTTA,    FROM    VULCI. 

tiles ;  and  heads,  jiortraits  of  the  deceased,  showing  abundant 
variety  of  feature,  expression,  and  fashion  of  head-dress.  In  tlic 
case  by  the  window  are  some  little  figures  and  heads,  of  terra- 
cotta or  of  stone  ;  some  ver}'  quaint.  Certain  of  the  female 
heads  have  quite  a  modern  air,  and  some  are  very  pretty 
and  expressive.  A  specimen  of  such  heads  is  given  in  the 
above  woodcut,  the  original  of  which  is  now  in  the  British 
Museum. 

Of  much  earlier  date  are  two  large  anfpfixce  coloured  to  the 
life — one  showing  a  satyr's  head  with  red  flesh,  goat's  ears,  black 
beard,  and  hideous  mouth  ;  the  other,  the  head  of  a  nymph  with 


^  Museo  Gregoriano,  I.  tav.  93,  1. 
^  The  bodies  of  infants  were  not  luirnt 
by  the  ancients  Ijefoie  they  had  cut  their 


teeth.- — •Ilominem  priusquam  gcnito  dentc 
creiuari  nios  gentium  non  est.  Plin.  VII. 
15  ;  cf.  Juven.  Sat.  XV.  139. 


460  EOME.  [CHAP.  Lxni. 

yellow  flesh,  red  hair,  iuul  blue  eyes,  wearing  an  (Oiijii/.r  i»n  her 
head,  very  like  that  in  the  above  woodcut.  Also  the  fragment  of 
a  sea-horse,  with  scales  painted  red,  and  the  feathers  of  his  wings 
coloured  red,  white,  and  blue  alternately ;  in  a  very  archaic  style. 
There  are  also  some  reliefs  in  terra-cotta,  which  are  not 
Etruscan,  but  of  Augustan  times,  representing  Mithras  slaying 
the  bull,  Amazons  feeding  or  combating  griflbns,  Perseus  with 
the  head  of  Medusa  of  gigantic  size,  Hercules  vanquishing 
the  Nemean  lion,  slaying  the  Hydra,  overthrowing  the  Cretan 
bull,  <kc. 

First  Vase-Hoom. 

The  vases  in  this  museum  are  very  clioice.  In  truth  they  are 
among  the  most  beautiful  specimens  of  Greek  ceramic  art  that 
have  come  down  to  us.  Being,  with  very  few  exceptions,  the 
jn'oduce  of  the  tombs  of  Etruria,  they  do  not  show  that  variety 
of  character  to  be  observed  in  collections  composed  of  vases 
gathered  from  all  parts  of  the  old  Hellenic  world.  The  student 
of  this  branch  of  antiquities  will  tlierefore  miss  some  of  the  well- 
known  types,  with  which  he  has  become  familiar  in  the  British 
Museum,  at  the  Louvre,  at  Berlin,  or  at  Munich.  He  will  find 
very  few  though  very  interesting  specimens  of  the  old  Doric,  or 
Corinthian  vases,  as  they  are  called.  But  in  those  of  the  Attic, 
or  Archaic  Greek  style,  and  in  that  which  is  deservedly  desig- 
nated Perfect,  this  collection  is  unrivalled.  There  is  nothing 
inferior  ;  every  vase  is  a  subject  for  admiration  and  for  study. 
And  this  is  my  apolog}'  for  jiresenting  something  like  a  catalogue 
of  them  to  ni}'  readers. 

This  room  contams  twenty-eight  painted  vases — mostly'  am- 
jihone,  in  the  Second  or  Archaic  style,  with  black  figures  on  the 
ground  of  the  clay.* 

In  the  centre  of  the  room,  on  a  pedestal,  stands  a  kratcr,  or 
anixing-vase,  with  figures,  painted  purple,  red,  black,  and  yellow, 

■•  It  may  Le  well  here  to  repeat  the  names  choos,  lijatJios. 
of    the   principal   sorts  of   ancient  vases,  Vases  for  drinking — kantharos,  Icyathos, 

classifying  tliem  according  to  the  purposes  l-jilix,   phlala,    sk>/phos,    holkion,    keras, 

they  served  : —  rhytou. 

Vases   for  holding  wine,  oil,  or  fruit —  There   are  many  more  varieties,   which 

amphora,  pelike,  stainnos,  lebes.  need  not  be  stated  here.    And  the  Ickythoi, 

Vases    for    water,    always    with    three  alahastoi,  and  other  unguent-vases,  I  have 

handles — hydria,  kalpig.  not  thought  it  necessary  to  specify.     The 

Vases  for  mixing  wine  at  the  banquet —  forms  of  all  have  been  shown  in  the  Ap- 

kratcr,  kdebe,  oxybaphon.  pcndix   to    the    Introduction,    to  which  I 

Vases  for  pouring — oenochoe,  olpe,  pro-  must  refer  the  reader  for  illustrations. 


CHAP.  Lxiii.]     MUSEO  GREGOPJANO— PAINTED  VASES.  40! 

on  a  very  pale  ground,  and  in  the  most  beautiful  style  of  Greek 
art;  indeed  this  is  one  of  the  finest  vases  ever  rescued  from  the 
tomhs  of  p]truria.  It  displays  ^lercmy  presenting  the  infant 
Bacchus  to  Silenus,  whose  half-brutal  character  is  marked  by 
hairy  tufts  on  his  naked  body.  Two  nymphs,  the  nurses  of  the 
lively  little  god,  complete  the  group.  On  the  reverse  of  the  vase, 
is  a  Muse,  sitting  between  two  of  her  sisters,  and  striking  a  lyre.'' 
— From  Vulci. 

The  vases  on  the  shelves  around  this  room  are  mostly  ainpltora;, 
with  hlnck  figures.  ]3eginning  from  the  left  as  you  enter,  you 
will  find  tlie  following,  though  their  arrangement  may  be  found  to 
vary  from  time  to  time. 

Warriors  fitting  on  their  greaves  in  preparation  for  the  combat : 
Pallas  stands  b}',  watching  them.  Her  shield  bears  a  woman's 
leg  kneeling  as  its  device. 

Pallas,  Dionysos,  and  Apollo.  Here  the  goddess  has  a  stag's 
head  on  her  shield. 

Europa  sitting  on  the  bull.  On  the  reverse,  Heracles  between 
Pallas  and  Dionysos. 

Heracles  overthrowing  tlic  Cretan  bull,  by  ropes  fastened  to  his 
liind  legs.     Peverse — Combat  between  Achilles  and.  "  Episos." 

Pallas  and  Ares  in  a  quiidrhja,  vanquishing  the  Titans — a  spirited 
scene.     Above  the  chariot  is  inscribed  "  Nikostratos  kalos." 

Dionysos  in  a  car,  sceptre  in  one  hand,  and  ears  of  corn  in  the 
other,  between  two  nymphs. 

Heracles  overcoming  the  centaur  Nessus  ;  reverse — Combat  ot 
Centaurs  and  Lapithre. 

The  other  vases  of  this  style  not  specified  bear  either  Bacchic 
subjects,  or  the  deeds  of  Hercules. 

In  a  corner  is  a  large  Jcclehe,  in  the  First  or  earliest  style, 
showing  a  combat,  with  a  band  of  animals  below. 

One  small  I'vater  in  the  corner  by  the  window  is  remarkable 
for  a  humorous  scene,  where  Jupiter  is  paying  court  to  Alcmena, 
who  regards  him  tenderly  from  a  window.  The  god,  disguised, 
it  would  seem,  in  a  double  sense,  bears  a  brotherly  resemblance 
to  "honest  Jack  Falstaff,''  or  might  pass  for  an  antique  version 
of  Punch  :  he  brings  a  ladder  to  ascend  to  his  fair  one  ;  and 
Mercury,  the  patron  of  amorous,  as  of  other  thefts,  is  present  to 
assist  his  father. — From  ^lagna  Grrecia. 

In  the  case  b}'  the  window  are  sundry  lamps,  chiefly  Roman  ; 
one  is  of  glass. 

*  Mii.s.  Gre^or.  II.  tav.  26. 


462  TiOME.  [chap,  lxiii. 


Second  Yase-Room. 

This  room  contains  tliirtT-ninc  vases.  In  tiie  centre  are  five 
on  pedestals.  The  most  singuh^r  is  one  of  the  rare  form  called 
h'hcs — a  large  glohe-shaped  howl  on  a  tall  stand,  like  an  enor- 
mous cup  and  hall.  Its  paintings  are  most  archaic  in  subject 
and  design — sphinxes,  harpies,  and  other  chimeras,  with  wild 
beasts,  principally  lions  and  hoars,  glaring  angrily  at  each  other, 
as  they  are  commonly  rej^resented  on  the  earliest  Greek  vases ; 
and  as  Ilesiod  describes  them  on  the  shield  of  Hercules^ — 

'Ef  5€  (Tvicv  dyeKat  ;j^Aov;'a'j'  taav,  TjSe  XeSvTwv, 
'Es  acpeas  SefjKoixivocp,  kot(6i'tciiv  d'Uixfvuv  t6. 

The  bowl  of  the  vase  has  four  bands  of  figures,  but  the  upj^er 
one  represents  a  boar-hunt,  and  a  spirited  combat  of  Greeks 
and  Trojans  over  the  body  of  Patroclus.  Earliest  style. — From 
Cervetri.'' 

Another  vase  in  the  centre  is  a  halpls,  with  Apollo,  lyre  in 
hand,  standing  by  a  chair  in  the  midst  of  six  ]Muses.  Third  or 
Perfect  style.— Yulci.^ 

The  third  is  a  ver^-  remarkable  vase — a  large  amphora,  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  specimens  of  the  Second,  or  Archaic  st3'le,  in 
which  hardness  and  severity  of  design  are  combined  with  a  most 
careful  and  conscientious  execution  of  details.  It  represents, 
on  one  side,  the  curious  subject  of  Achilles  ("  Aciiileos  ")  and 
Ajax  ("  AiANTOS  ")^  plajdng  at  dice,  or  astragali.  Achilles  cries 
"  Four  !  "  and  Ajax,  "  Three  !  " — the  said  words  in  choice  Attic 
issuing  from  their  mouths,  just  as  would  be  represented  in  a 
modern  caricature.  From  the  dice  not  being  shown,  and  from 
the  hands  being  held  out  with  the  fingers   extended,  they  might 

"  Scut.   Here.   108.     The  notion  of  en-  a  Cliristiau  of  a  pig  ! ' 
counters  between  these  animals  was  pre-  " 'May  God  burn  your  grcat-great-gi-and- 

Talent  in  very  ancient  times,  as  sucli  sub-  motlier  !  '  said  tlie  boar, 
jccts  are  frequently  introduced  on  the  most  "On    hearing  the   creature   curse    her 

archaic  vases,  and  on  otlier  primitive  works  parent,  the  lioness  stopiied,  and,  Lasliing 

of  Greek  art.     Nor  is  it  yet  obsolete,  as  we  her  tail,  roared  with  a  voice  that  the  whole 

learn  from  the  curious  story  of  a  comliat  wood  re-echoed,  and  she  said,  'There  is  no 

between  a  lioness  and  a  boar,  told  by  Sir  conqueror  but  God  ! '  " 
John   Drummond  Hay  in  his  most  enter-  '  JIus.   Gregor.    II.    tav.   90.     See  the 

taining  work  on    "Western   liarbarj-,"  to  form  of  the  ?f  its,  No.  1 'J  iu  the  Chapter  on 

which  the  scenes  on  these  vases  miglit  serve  Vases, 
.as  illustrations.  ^  I^I'is-  Gregor.  II.  tav.  ].">,  2. 

"'God   is  great!'  said   the  lioness;—  ''  Where  the  names  are  given  in  capital 

'  0  God  !  all-merciful  Creator  !     What  an  letters,  it  is  to  be  understood  that  so  they 

immense  boar  !     What  an  infidel !     What  are  written  in  Greek  characters  on  the  vase. 


CHAP.  Lxiii.]     MUSEO  GEEGOrJAXO— PAINTED  VASES.  4G3 

be  supposed  to  Le  playing  at  the  olil  game  of  dini'icatio  dif/itorum, 
known  to  both  Greeks  and  llomans,  and  handed  down  to  modern 
times,  as  ever}'  one  who  has  been  in  Italy  knows  to  the  cost  of 
his  peace — the  eternal  shouting  of  la  morra  assailing  him  in 
every  street.  But  as  their  lingers  touch  the  table  between  them, 
it  is  more  probable  the  artist  intended  to  represent  them  playing 
at  dice.  Each  has  his  shield  resting  behind  him,  and  Ajax  his 
helmet  also.  Achilles  wears  his.  Both  heroes  wear  mantles 
over  their  shoulders.  In  the  elaborate  richness  of  these  mantles 
and  of  the  armour,  and  the  exquisite  neatness  of  the  execution, 
this  vase  has  not  its  rival  in  the  collection.^  The  potter's  name, 
*' EcHSEiQAS,"  is  recorded,  as  well  as  that  of  the  person  to  whom 
it  w'as  presented — "the  brave  Onetorides."  On  the  reverse  of 
the  vase  is  a  family  scene  of  "the  great  Twin-brethren"  — 
"  Kastor"  with  his  horse,  "  Poludeukes  "  playing  with  his  dog, 
"  Tyndareos  "  and  "  Leda  "  in  quaintly  figured  drapery,  stand- 
ing by.  A  boy  is  carr3'ing  a  seat  on  his  head,  and  either  he  or 
the  horse  is  called  *'  Kularos."  This  beautiful  relic  of  antiquity 
was  found  at  Vulci  in  1834.^ 

The  fourth  vase  on  a  pedestal  is  an  ampJtora,  representing  the 
body  of  Achilles  borne  to  Peleus  and  Thetis,  followed  by  his 
companions  in  arms,  one  of  whom  bears  the  Trinacrian  device 
on  his  shield.  On  the  reverse  is  Bacchus  driving  a  quadriga, 
attended  b}'  a  Satyr  and  Msenads.     Second  style. — Cervetri.' 

The  fifth  vase  is  a  kalpis,  and  has  for  its  subject  the  Death  of 
Hector.  The  hero  "  of  the  quick-glancing  helmet  "  is  sinking 
in  death,  and  relaxing  his  hold  on  his  arms.  His  beardless 
victor  stands  over  him  with  drawn  sword.  Minerva  supports  her 
favourite  hero ;  and  Apollo — or,  it  may  be,  Yenus — stands,  bow 
in  hand,  behind  the  fallen  Trojan,  and  points  an  arrow  at  the 
Greek,  as  if  to  predict  the  fate  in  store  for  him.  A  beautiful 
vase  in  the  Third  style. — From  Yulci.*' 

On  the  shelf  to  the  left  of  the  door  are  amphora  in  the  Second 
style,  among  which  the  following  are  most  worth}'  of  notice  : — 

Heracles  and  Apollo  contending  for  the  tripod  at  Delphi. 

Heracles  and  the  Nemean  lion. 

*  This  subject  is  not  uncommon.      In-  See  Annal.  Inst.  lSfl6,  tar.  d'agg.  U.  Y. 
stances  of  it,    but  of  inferior  design  and  ^  Illustrated    in    Jlon.    Ined.    Inst.    II. 

execution,  are  to  be  seen  in  the  Museum  tav.  22.     Mas.  Grcgor.  II.  tav.  53.    Ann. 

at  Na\>les,  in  the  ISritish  iluscum,  and  in  Inst.  ]83r>,  p.  228. — Panof.ka. 
other  large   collections   of   ancient   vases.  •*  !Mus.  Gregor.  II.  tav.  50,  2. 

The  ancient  game,  now  called  viorra,   is  ■•  Mus.  Gregor.  II.  tav.  12,  2. 

occasionally  represented   on   Greek  vases. 


4C4  PtOME.  [chap,  lxiii. 

Heracles  and  the  sea-god  Xereus. 

Heracles  rescuing  Deianeira  from  the  Centaur  Xessus. 

Heracles  and  the  Amazon  Ponthesileia. 

Comhat  of  Greeks  and  Trojans  over  the  hody  of  Patroclus. 

A  remarkahle  vase,  an  ampJtora  of  that  sort  contracting 
towards  the  neck,  -which  is  commonly  called  a  j)c//A-^',  shows  two 
men  sitting  imder  an  olive-tree,  each  with  an  amphora  at  his 
feet,  and  one  who  is  measuring  the  oil  exclaims,  "  0  father 
Jove !  would  that  I  were  rich  !  "  On  the  reverse  of  the  vase 
is  the  same  pair,  hut  at  a  suhsequent  period,  for  the  j^rayer 
has  been  heard,  and  the  oil-dealer  cries — "Yeril}',  yea,  verily,  it 
hatli  been  filled  to  overflowing."     Second  style. — Cfere.^ 

The  shelf  opposite  the  Avindow  contains  Jiydricc,  or  water-jars, 
mostly  in  the  same  archaic  style. 

In  the  corner  is  a  race  of  women,  a  very  curious  scene. 

Zeus,  Pallas,  and  Heracles  in  a  quadr'ir/a,  contending  with  the 
Giants;  a  scene  full  of  spirit.  On  the  shoulder  of  the  vase, 
Pallas  is  twice  rejiresented  on  foot  engaged  in  a  similar  combat. 

Pallas  in  a  quadriga,  attended  by  Hermes  and  Heracles.  On 
the  shoulder,  Theseus  is  vanquishing  the  Minotam-. 

A  quadriga  foreshortened;  a  not  unique  subject  in  early  Greek 
art,  as  the  well-knoAm  metope  from  Sehnus  will  testify. 

Krater.  Triptolemus  on  his  car  draAra  by  serpents.  From 
Magna  Grsecia. 

A  Jigdria  of  superior  size,  and  extreme  beauty,  in  the  Thii-d  or 
Perfect  style,  representing  Apollo  seated  on  the  Delj^hic  tripod, 
which  is  speeding  its  winged  course  over  the  waves.  Dolphins 
and  other  fish  are  gambolling  in  the  water,  attracted  to  tlie 
sm'face  by  the  music  of  the  god's  lyre.  It  is  one  of  the  most 
beautiful,  and  best  preserved  vases  yet  discovered  at  Yulci.^ 

Ilijdria.  Nymphs  at  a  Doric  fountain ;  some  going,  others 
returning.  Their  pots,  true  hijdrice  in  form,  just  like  the  vase 
itself,  are  laid  on  their  heads  in  different  positions,  according 
as  they  are  full  or  empty ;  as  maj-  be  observed  among  the 
peasant-girls  of  Italy  at  the  present  day.  In  an  upper  band  is 
a  spirited  combat,  thought  to  represent  ^neas  assisting  Hector 
against  Ajax.  In  a  lower  band,  boys  on  horseback  are  hunting 
stags.  Second  style. — Yulci." 
A  warrior  mounting  his  quadriga. 

5  Mon.  Incd.  Inst.  II.  tav.  44  b;  ]Mus.       tav.  94.  Mou.  Ined.  Inst.  I.  tav.  46.'Mus. 
Gregor.  II.  tav.  CI,  1.  Gregor.  II.  tav.  15,  I. 

«  Micali,  Ant.    Top.  Ital.   III.    p.   147,  '  iliis.  Gregor.  II.  tav.  9,  2. 


CHAP.  Lxiii.]    MUSEO  GEEGORIANO— PAINTED  VASES.  465 

Heracles  in  a  (jiiadrifja  attended  by  Pallas  and  Dionysos.  On 
the  sliouldor,  tlie  dcmi-god  overcominf:^  the  Xemean  lion. 

On  tlie  shelf  at  riglit  angles  are  the  following:  — 

Kalpis.  Heracles  contending  with  the  Nemean  lion.  Pallas 
•seated  looking  calmly  on.     Third  style. 

llijdria.     Pelens  seizing  Thetis  at  a  fountain.     Second  style. 

Two  Panathenaic  amphone,  each  showing  Pallas  brandisliing 
her  spear  in  the  attitude  of  attack,  between  two  Doric  columns, 
crowned  with  cocks.  The  reverse  of  one  shows  a  hUja  at  full 
gallo}) ;  of  the  other,  a  foot-race.  The  usual  inscription  is  want- 
ing in  each. 

K(i1j)is.  Theseus,  having  pierced  the  wild  sow  of  Crommvon 
-Nvith  his  spear,  and  wounded  her  with  a  stone,  has  brought  her  to 
bay,  and  awaits  her  attack,  sword  in  hand,  with  his  cJilamys 
wrapt  round  his  left  arm ;  nearly  as  the  Spanish  matador  en- 
counters the  bull  in  the  arena.     Third  style. — Vulci.^ 

Kalpis.  N3mphs  at  a  fountain,  filling  their  jars,  assisted  by  a 
man  who  brings  uii  an  amphora  to  be  filled.     Second  st3'le. 

Stamnos.  On  the  body  of  this  vase  is  a  band  of  figures  repre- 
senting the  palfEstric  games — wrestling,  boxing,  and  chariot- 
racing.  In  an  upper  band  is  a  banquet  of  four  couples  of  both 
sexes,  very  like  the  feasting-scenes  in  the  tombs  of  Tarquinii, 
but  in  a  more  archaic  style.     Second  style. — Vulci. 

On  the  shelf  by  the  window  are  two  most  archaic  vases.  One 
is  a  hydria  of  singular  form.  The  subject  is  the  Boar  of  Caly- 
don  at  bay,  attacked  by  dogs,  and  by  hunters  armed  with  spears, 
all  of  whom  have  their  names  attached.  The  other  is  an 
oenocho'e,  and  represents  Ajax,  "Aivas,"  fighting  with  J^^neas, 
who  is  assisted  by  Hector.  The  figures  are  painted  in  black,  red 
and  white  on  the  pale  yellow  ground  of  the  clay.  The  very 
peculiar  design,  and  the  primitive  palaeography,  mark  these  vases 
to  be  of  that  rare  Doric  class,  probably  from  Corinth,  which  are 
seldom  found  on  any  other  Etruscan  site  than  Cervetri.^ 

In  the  cases  by  the  window  are  sundry  articles  in  pottery, 
among  which  notice  a  small  canoe,  a  rhyton  in  the  form  of  a 
man's  leg;  two  alahasti  in  the  shape  of  eagles'  heads,  from 
Cervetri ;  small  heads  of  terra-cotta,  with  moulds  for  casting 
them;  and  two  very  small  bowls  or  saucers,  each  with  a  Cuj^id 
painted  in  the  middle,  and  one  inscribed  "  keri  rocoLOM,"  the 
other  "lavehna  rocoLOM,"  in  very  archaic  Latin  cliaracters. 

«  Mu3.  Giesor.  II.  tav.  12,  1.  Gregor.  II.  tav.   17,  2;  Aun.   Inst.  1836, 

«  Mon.  lued.  Inst.  II.  tav.  38  A  ;  Mus.       pp.  306—310,  Abeken. 
vuL.  II.  u  n 


466  ■  EOME.  [chap,  lxiii.. 

Quadrant,  or  Third  Yase-Eoom. 

This  is  a  long  hall  or  gallery,  with  the  vases  arranged  on 
shelves  along  the  inner  Avail.  I  shall  sx^ecify  the  most  remark- 
able, but  as  their  collocation  is  subject  to  alterations,  they  may 
not  be  found  in  the  order  in  which  they  are  here  mentioned. 

Amphora.  Pallas  and  Heracles  contending  with  the  Giants, 
represented  as  men  in  armour,  not  of  larger  size  than  their- 
opponents.  A  two-headed  Cerberus  follows  the  moilal  warriors.. 
— ^\'ulci. 

Ampliora.  Aurora  mourning  over  her  son  Memnon,  who  lies- 
dead  in  a  myrtle-grove.  His  armour  is  lying  on  the  gi'ound,  or 
is  suspended  from  the  trees.  A  dove  in  the  branches  above  is- 
supposed  to  represent  his  soul,  or  it  ma)'  be  one  of  the  liero's- 
companions,  changed,  as  the  legend  states,  into  birds.  Obsen'e 
the  expression  of  the  weepmg  mother.  On  the  reverse  of  tliis 
scene  is  Briseis  led  away  from  Achilles. — Yulci.^ 

Hydria.  The  combat  of  Heracles  with  Cycnus.  Pallas, 
assists  her  hero,  and  Ares  his  son.  Below  is  a  band  of  lions 
and  boars. — Yulci. 

Hydria.  A  fountain  with  a  Doric  portico,  having  snakes  and 
birds  painted  on  the  architrave.  The  water  gushes  from  the 
mouths  of  lions  and  asses,  and  flows  in  waving  cm'ves  into  the 
pitchers !  On  the  shoulder  of  the  vase,  Heracles  is  overcoming 
the  Nemean  lion;  Pallas  and  lolaus  stand  by  with  a  chariot. — 
Yulci.2 

Hydria.  Pallas  mounting  her  quadriga,  attended  by  Hermes 
and  Heracles.  On  the  shoulder  of  the  vase  Theseus  is  sla3'ing 
the  Minotaur ;  youths  and  maidens  stand  around,  the  tribute 
sent  from  Athens  to  Crete,  and  rescued  by  the  hero's  exploit, — 
Yulci. 

Hydria.  Two  men  on  horseback,  who  might  represent  the 
Dioscuri  were  it  not  for  the  inscriptions  above  them.  On  the 
shoulder  of  the  vase  are  contests  of  racers  and  pugilists. — 
Cervetri. 

Hydria.  Theseus  slaying  the  ]\Iinotaur;  youths  and  maidens,, 
with  branches  in  their  hands,  stand  b}'.  In  an  upper  band  is 
Bacchus  holding  a  keras  or  wine-horn,  in  the  midst  of  Satyrs 
and  Mienads,  dancing  to  the  music  of  the  double-pipes  and 
castanets. — Yulci. 

Amphora.     Heracles  overcoming  the  Nemean  lion. 

1  Mus.  Gregor.  II,  tav.  49,  2.  »  jiug,  Qregor.  11.  tar.  10,  2. 


CHAP.  Lxiii.]    MUSEO   GREGORIANO— PAINTED   VASES.  467 

Ampliorn.  A  quadriga,  with  Pallas  and  Heracles  behind  it. 
Reverse. — A  Bacchic  dance. 

All  the  foregoing  are  in  the  Second,  or  Archaic  Greek  style. 
Beyond  the  recess,  which  is  occupied  by  a  large  krater  from 
Magna  Gracia,  are  the  following:  — 

Amphora.     Achilles  and  Memnon,  contending  over  the  body  of 
Autilo(dius.     On    the    reverse,  Heracles    in    a    quadriga   accom- 
panied by  Pallas.     A  beautiful  vase  in  the  Second  style. — Yulci. 
Kalpis.     "  TiiAMYiiis  "  with  lyre  in  hand,  contending  with  the 
Muses.     A  very  beautiful  vase  in  the  Third  style. — Vulci.^ 

Kalpis.  "  PosKiDON  "  seizing  "Aithra,"  as  she  is  plucking 
flowers.     Third  Style.— Vulci.^^ 

IJydria.  A  man  painting  or  inscribing  a  stele  or  funeral 
monument ;  another  passes  him  in  a  chariot.  Third  style. — 
Vatican  Library.'^ 

Ampliora,  with  twisted  handles.  The  single  figure  of  a  warrior. 
In  the  Third  style. — Nola. 

Amphora.  A  woman  carrying  a  shield  bearing  the  device  of  an 
eagle  with  a  snake  in  its  beak.     Tliird  style. 

Amphora.  Demeter  with  a  torch  in  each  hand,  seeking  her 
daughter  Persephone.     Third  style. 

Amphora.  Theseus  slaying  the  Minotaur  at  a  Doric  column. 
Third  style. 

Kalpis.  Boreas,  with  wings  and  talaria,  seizing  the  nymph 
Oreithyia  at  an  altar.     Third  style. 

Kalpis.  A  woman  in  a  quadriga,  followed  b}'  another  on  foot 
with  a  lyre,  and  preceded  by  a  third  with  a  torch  in  each  hand. 
Third  style. 

Amphora,  in  the  recess,  from  Magna  Grsecia. 
Two  Panathenaic  aniphorce,  with  the  figure  of  Athene  Proma- 
chos,  brandishing  her  lance  between  two  Doric  columns  sur- 
mounted by  cocks,  and  with  the  usual  legend  "TONA0ENE0EN- 
A0AON" — "of  the  prizes  from  Athens."  In  one  case  the 
goddess  has  a  gorgoneion  on  her  shield  ;  in  the  other  her 
favourite  owl.  The  former  vase  is  pseudo-archaic,  as  the 
archaicisms  it  displays  are  not  proper  to  the  date  of  its  ma- 
nufacture, but  are  conventionalities  retained  from  an  earlier 
period.  The  reverse  as  usual  shows  scenes  from  the  public 
games. — Vulci.'' 

Amphora.     Heracles,  shaking  hands  with  the  grey-eyed  goddess, 

3  Mus.  Grcgor.  11.  tav.  13,  2.  *  Mus.  Oregon  II.  tav.  IG,  1. 

'•  Mus.  Gregor.  II.  tav.  14,  1.  *  Mus.  Gregor.  II.  tav.  42,  43, 

11  11  '2 


468  EOME.  [chap,  lxiii. 

his  patroness,  salutes  her  with"XAIPE."  lolaus  stands  by, 
bearing  the  hero's  arms.  On  the  reverse  a  citltarista  is  playing 
between  two  athletes,  very  like  the  figures  in  the  painted  tombs 
of  Corneto.     A  very  beautiful  vase  in  the  Third  style. — A'uhi.' 

Amj'ltora.  A  youth  witli  the  discus.  On  the  reverse  is  a 
padutrihcs.  A  very  beautiful  vase  Avith  brilliant  lustre.  Third 
style. — Yuki.^ 

Amphora.     Dionysus  revelling  with  Satyrs  under  the  vines. 

Aittphora.  Heracles  and  Apollo  contending  fur  the  tripod. 
Minerva  endeavours  to  pai-t  them.  On  the  reverse  are  dances 
to  the  music  of  the  lyre  and  double-pipes.  Third  style. — 
Cervetri.' 

Amphora.  Apollo,  with  his  lyre  in  hand,  endeavouring  to  avoid 
the  blow  which  Cassandra  aims  at  him  with  an  axe.  A  beautiful 
vase  in  the  Third  style. — Vulci.^ 

Amphora.  Apollo  crowned  with  laurel,  playing  his  lyre,  and 
rapt  in  song.     A  beautiful  vase,  in  the  Third  style,  from  Yulci.- 

Amphora. — Hecuba, — '"  Ekabe  " — presents  a  goblet  to  her  son, 
*'the  brave  Hector  "—KAA02  EKT12P— and  regards  him  with 
such  intense  interest,  that  she  spills  the  wine  as  she  pours  it  out 
to  him.  The  hoary -headed  "  Priamos  "  also  stands  by,  leaning 
on  his  staff,  looldng  mournfully  on,  as  if  jn-esaging  the  fate  of  his 
son.     Third  style. — Yulci.^ 

The  large  amphora  in  the  recess  is  from  Magna  Gr^ecia,  and 
represents  a  lady,  probably  Helen,  sitting  at  her  toilet  in  the 
midst  of  her  maids,  admiring  her  naked  charms  in  a  mirror. 
Paris  peeps  at  her  through  a  Avindow. 

Amphora  with  twisted  handles.  A  poet  -with  l}Te  and  plectrum 
in  hand,  at  a  Doric  column.  Two  Yictories  on  the  wing  bring 
him  wine  in  vases.     Third  style. 

Amphora.  Poseidon,  with  his  trident,  and  bearing  a  rock  on 
which  are  painted  sundry  reptiles  and  fishes,  is  overthrowing  a 
warrior,  supposed  to  be  Polybotes.     Third  style. — Yulci.* 

Amphora.  A  warrior,  retm-ning  from  the  fight,  receives  a 
cup  of  wine  from  a  nymph  at  a  Doric  column.  Third  style. — 
Yulci. 

Amphora.     Theseus  slaj-ing  the  Minotaur. 

Amphora.     Pallas  armed,  stands  with  lier  helmet  in  her  hand, 

'  Mus.  Gregor.  II.  tav.  54,  2.  =  Mus.  Gregor.  II.  tav.  59,  2. 

»  Mus.  Gregor.  II.  tav.  58,  I.  ^  j[us.  Gregor.  II.  tav.  (30,  2. 

9  Mus.  Gregor.  II.  tav.  54,  1.  ■•  Mus.  Gregor.  II.  tav.  C6,  1. 

»  Mus.  Gregor.  II.  tav.  60,  1. 


CHAP.  ;,xiii.]    MUSEO   GREGOEIANO -PAINTED   VASES.  4(39 

on  one  side  of"  tlie  vase  ;    Hermes   on   the   other.     Vase  iu  the 
Third  st\  le,  lui\  inn'  a  brilliant  lustre. 

Ainphdfd.  Achilles,  bare-headed,  but  armed  with  cuirass, 
and  spear,  stands  on  one  side  of  the  vase  ;  on  the  other  a  nynipji 
is  filling  ii  goblet  with  wine,  to  refresh  the  liero,  after  his  labour 
in  the  fight.     A  beautiful  vase  in  the  best  style,  from  Vulci.^ 

Stamnos.  Zeus  reclining  on  his  couch,  cup  in  hand ;  Nike, 
or  it  may  be  Hebe,  bringing  him  wine.     Third  st^de. 

Ilydrhi.  Two  youths  with  spears  sitting  on  rocks  ;  others 
bring  them  weapons  and  armour.     Third  style. 

Kalpis.  A  boy  with  his  hoop  in  one  hand,  and  a  co(dc  iu  the 
other,  which  he  seems  to  have  stolen  from  a  hen-roost.  An  old 
man,  supposed  to  be  his  tutor,  or  luedotribes,  is  calling  him  to 
account  for  his  misdeeds.  Third  style.  It  is  not  known  where 
this  beautiful  vase  Avas  found,  as  it  had  been  in  the  Vatican 
Library  long  prior  to  the  formation  of  this  Museum.^ 

Amphora.  Two  warriors  in  a  quadriga  going  to  battle.  Two 
women,  with  small  children  on  their  arms,  stand  by  the  car — a 
scene  generally  interpreted  as  the  parting  of  Amphiaraus  and 
Eriphyle.  On  the  reverse,  are  represented  the  gods  of  Olympus. 
Zeus  seated  on  his  throne,  about  to  give  birth  to  Pallas- Athene. 
Hera  and  Ares  stand  before  him ;  Poseidon  and  Hermes  behind. 
The  owl  is  perched  on  the  god's  sceptre,  as  if  awaiting  the  advent 
of  his  mistress.     Second  style. — Cervetri. 

Stamnos.  A  Mrenad  with  a  lyre,  and  another  with  tJiyrsus  in 
hand,  and  dishevelled  locks. 

Stamnos.  The  gods  in  council.  Hera  seated  on  her  "golden 
throne ;  "  Zeus  standing  before  her,  bolt  in  hand ;  Pallas, 
Hermes,  and  Poseidon,  with  their  respective  attributes ;  and 
another  pair,  probabh^  Hephffistos  and  Aphrodite.  Third  style. — 
Vulci.7 

Stamnos.  Hippolyta  on  horseback  and  in  close  mail,  contend- 
ing with  Theseus,  aided  by  Peirithous,  on  foot.  Third  style. — 
Vulci.^ 

Stamnos.  "Zeus"  seizing  "Akjina,"  in  the  midst  of  her 
sisters;  who,  on  the  other  side  of  the  vase,  are  seen  informing 
their  father  "Asopos,"  of  his  daughter's  abduction.  Third  style. 
— A^ilci.3 


*  Mus.  Gregor.  II.  tav.  68,  3.  master's  rod.    Mus.  Grcgor.  II.  tav.  14,  2. 

*  Some  see  in  this  scene  Jupiter  and  '  Mus.  Gregor.  II.  tav.  21,  1. 
Ganymede,  and  certainly  tlie  old  man's  "  ]\Ius.  Gregor.  II.  tav.  20,  2. 
wand  is  more  like  a  sceptre  tlian  a  school-  '  Mus.  Gregor.  II.  tav,  20,  1. 


470  ROME.  [CHAP,  lxiii. 

Ajyij^hora.  Heracles,  carrviiig  the  boar  of  Erjmantlius  on  liis 
slioulJer,  is  bringing  him  to  Eurvstheus,  who,  terrified  at  the 
huge  monster,  tries  to  hide  himself  in  a  well.  Second  style. — 
Yulci.^  Humour  seems  hardly  consistent  with  so  much  severity 
of  style. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  this  long  galler}',  between  the  windows, 
are  several  vases,  which,  on  your  return  to  the  entrance  door,  you 
reach  in  the  following  order : — 

Kalp'is.     Apollo  with  the  ]\Iuses.     Third  style. 

Pelike.  A  warrior  receiving  a  goblet  from  a  Victory,  who 
carries  a  cadiiceus.  But  the  most  remarkable  thing  about  tliis 
beautiful  vase  is  that  it  was  broken  of  old,  and  riveted  together 
with  brass  wire,  just  as  it  is  now  seen,  before  it  was  placed  in  the 
tomb.     Third  style. — Yulci." 

Kalpis.     Combat  between  Achilles  and  Hector.     Third  style. 

Staninos.  Troilus,  riding  two  horses,  has  been  suri)rised  at 
a  fountain  by  Achilles,  and  gallops  oft",  followed  by  his  swift- 
footed  foe.  A  maiden  alarmed  is  dropping  her  pitcher.  Third 
style. — Yulci.^ 

Pelike.  Artemis  offering  a  goblet  to  her  brother  Apollo. 
Third  style.  This  vase  is  remarkable  as  having  been  found 
near  Norcia,  in  Sabina,  on  one  of  the  loftiest  of  the  Apennines. 

Staynnos.  Zeus  on  his  throne,  with  Nike  liying  behind  him, 
while  Apollo  stands  before  him,  playing  the  lyre.     Third  style. 

Amphora.  Aphrodite,  driving  a  quadriga,  followed  by  a  dove. 
Second  style. 

Amphora.  Heracles,  attended  by  Pallas,  at  the  gate  of  Orcus, 
which  is  guarded  by  a  double-headed  Cerberus.  The  king  of 
the  shades  is  there  to  receive  them,  and  Persephone  sits  hard 
by,  under  a  Doric  portico.  The  inscription  offers  a  specimen 
of  the  unknown  tongue,  occasionally  found  on  these  vases.* 

Stamnos.  Heracles  pursuing  a  nymph.  Third  style.  This 
vase  has  also  been  restored,  and  in  a  singular  manner;  for  a  piece 
of  the  female  figure  having  been  broken  away  has  been  supplied 
with  a  fragment  of  a  banqueting-scene,  in  a  totally  different  style; 
showing  that  the  restoration  was  made  for  the  sake  of  utility 
rather  than  of  beauty. 

Stamnos.  The  winged  "Heos"  driving  her  four-horse  chariot. 
Third  style.— Vulci.^ 

'  Mus.  Gregor.  II.  tav.  51,  2.  *   Mus.  Grcgor.  II.  tav.  52,  2. 

-  Mus.  Gregor.  II.  tav.  63,  2.  ^  Mus.  Gregor.  II.  tav.  IS,  2.  i 

^  Mus.  Gregor.  II.  tav.  22,  1. 


<:hap.  lxiii.]    MUSEO  GEEGORIANO— PAINTED  YASES. 


471 


Stamiios.  Combat  of  Greeks  and  Amazons.  Third  st3'le. — 
Tulci. 

Kclehe.  The  same  subject,  treated  in  a  spirited  manner. 
The  heroine  on  horseback  is  spearing  her  unarmoured  foe,  and 
brings  him  to  his  knee.  She  wears  a  Phrygian  cap  with  long 
lapijets,  and  her  close-fitting  dress  is  ornamented  with  bands  of 
•chevrons,  as  in  the  celebrated  vase  in  the  Arezzo  Museum. 
Third  st^de. — A'atican  Library. 

Kclchc.  A  Satyr  treading  grapes  in  a  wine-press.  Dionysus 
^vith  a  thyrsus,  another  SatjT,  and  two  Maenads  are  looking  on. 
Third  style. — Yulci.  This  vase  was  broken  in  the  foot,  and 
restored  by  the  ancients.^ 

There  are  other  vases  in 
these  three  rooms,  whose 
position  I  cannot  remem- 
ber, and  man}"  of  those  al- 
ready described  bear  other 
subjects  on  the  reverse. 
Many  of  these  subjects  are 
Bacchic.  The  bearded  god, 
standing  with  wine -horn, 
hi/atltus,  or  hantharus,  and 
•a  vine  branch  in  his  hand, 
is  surrounded  by  Satyrs 
and  Msenads.  These  are 
generally  amphorce,  Avith 
black  figures,  in  the  Second 
■stjde,  and  from  Yulci. 

The   labours  and   deeds  ktathus. 

of  Hercules  are  often  re- 
presented, particularly  his  struggle  Avith  the  Nemean  lion.  He 
is  also  seen  carrying  the  Erymanthian  boar  on  his  shoulders — 
overcoming  the  Centaurs — sla^-ing  Cacus — destroying  the  Hydra 
— vanquishing  the  Amazons — wrestling  with  Nereus — striliing 
tlown  the  triple-bodied  Geryon — fetching  Cerberus  from  hell — 
contending  with  Apollo  for  the  tripod — combating  the  giants — 
driving  his  chariot  with  his  patron,  the  grey-eyed  goddess — 
playing  the  lyre,  between  Bacchus  and  Minerva — rescuing 
Deianeira  from  the  centaur  Nessus. 

Other  favourite  subjects  on  these  vases  are  the  deeds  of 
Theseus,  who  is  represented  contending  Avith  the  Amazons,  the 

*=  Mus.  Gresor.  II.  tav  24,  1 


472  EOME.  [CHAP,  lxiii, 

Minotaur,  the  Centaurs — slaying  the  wihl  sow  of  Cronnayon,  or 
securing  the  hull  of  INIarathon ;  and  scenes  from  the  Trojan 
"NVar,  especially  the  deeds  of  Achilles,  Hector,  and  Ulysses. 

Pahestric  exercises  and  games  are  also  often  represented — 
■\vrestUng — hoxing — racing.  Hunting  the  hare  on  horseback, 
and  in  armour,  is  very  peculiar.  Youths  with  strigils  at  the 
bath,  or  preparing  for  the  j)alastra.  "Warriors  arming,  or  engaged 
in  combat. 

Among  the  vases  which  demand  particular  notice  is  a  kclciie,  in 
very  archaic  style,  representing  a  nuptial  procession  ;  the  wedded' 
pair  drawn  in  n  quadriga  ;  from  Cervetri.  An  amphora,  in  the 
Second  style,  from  the  same  site,  with  the  combat  of  Hector, 
assisted  by  Jilneas,  against  Ajax  ;  on  the  neck  is  a  goddess- 
between  two  lions. 

FouETii  Yask-Room. 

This  chamber  contains  chiefly  hjlikes,  or  drinldng  bowls,, 
which  are  more  rare  than  the  upright  vases,  and  not  inferior  in 
beauty ;  indeed  some  of  the  most  exquisite  specimens  of  Greek 
ceramographic  art  are  on  vessels  of  this  form.  jNIost  of  them 
are  figured  within  as  well  as  outside  the  bowl,  and  without 
minute  examination,  which  can  only  be  effected  by  handling,  it  is 
in  many  instances  impossible  to  ascertain  the  subjects  of  the 
paintings,  or  to  determine  more  than  the  style  of  art.  I  shall 
notice  those  only  with  the  most  striking  subjects,  most  of  which 
are  from  Yulci. 

Qildipus  solving  the  riddles  of  the  Sphinx.  The  same  in 
caricature — the  Theban  prince  having  a  monstrous  head,  and  a 
little  crutch,  like  a  hammer,  in  his  hand;  the  "man-devouring 
monster  "  being  reduced  to  the  iigure  of  a  dog,  or  fox, — for  it  is- 
hard  to  determine  which."  Jason  vomited  by  the  dragon  at  the 
feet  of  Pallas,  who  stands  by,  owl  in  hand,  watching  for  his 
advent.  The  golden  fleece  hangs  on  a  tree  behind.^  The  Rape 
of  Proserpine  ;  the  King  of  Shades  bearing  her  to  his  realms 
below :  her  ornaments  are  in  relief — a  rare  feature  in  vases  of 
this  description  found  in  Etruiia,  though  not  uncommon  on  those 
from  Magna  Grrecia.'-^  Pelias  being  led  to  the  caldron,  where  the 
treacherous   INIedea    stands    ready   to    sacrifice   liim.^     Theseus- 

^  These  two  vases  arc  illustratetl  iu  Mu.s.       Grcgor.  II.  tav.  8(5,  1. 
Gregor.  II.  tav.  80,  »  Mus.  Gregor.  II.  tav.  83,  2. 

«  Mon.   Inod.   Inst.  II.   tav.  35.     Mus.  >  Mus.  Gregor,  II.  tav.  82,  1. 


CHAP.  Lxiii.]    :MTjSEO   GREGOEIANO— painted   vases.  471? 

binding  the  bull  of  ]\Iaratlion.^  A  sick  warrior  on  a  couch,  his- 
head  supported  by  his  Avife  :  the  contrasted  pain  and  sympathy 
are  admirably  expressed.^  A  symposiuin,  or  drinking-bout,  of 
bearded  men,  one  of  whom  is  playing  the  lyre ;  and  another  of 
men  and  youths."*  Groups  of  athletce  preparing  for  the  arena, 
with  a  youth  trying  on  greaves,  inside  the  bowl — one  of  the  most- 
beautiful  vases  in  this  room,  rivalled,  however,  by  the  next, 
which  shows  naked  youths  at  the  bath,  with  strigils  in  their 
hands. ^  A  youth  exercismg  with  the  dumb-bells.  Several 
specimens  of  the  curious  goblets,  painted  with  large  eyes. 
Between  each  pair  are  generally  one  or  two  small  figures  such  as- 
Heracles  slaying  Cycnus, — or  contending  with  Hippolyta — • 
Hermes  and  Dionysus — warriors  on  foot  or  horse-back — trum- 
peters— heads  of  Pallas,  Hermes,  and  Heracles,  all  three  together 
in  profile — a  winged  Gorgon  running;  but  the  most  common 
subjects  are  Bacchic. 

On  the  shelves  towards  the  windows  are  more  of  these 
kylikes  : — ^Ajax  bearing  the  dead  body  of  Achilles.®  Prometheus- 
bound  to  a  Doric  column,  with  the  vulture  tearing  his  liver, 
while  he  is  tallcing  to  Atlas  with  the  world  on  his  shoulders.'^ 
Warriors  shaking  hands.  Trumpeters  with  long  straight  horns. 
Combats  of  Greeks  and  Trojans.  The  exploit  of  the  infant 
Mercury  as  cattle-lifter. 

' '  The  babe  was  bom  at  the  first  peep  of  day  ; 
He  began  playing  on  the  lyre  at  noon, 
And  the  same  evening  did  he  steal  away 
Apollo's  herds." 

The  god  of  light  is  seeking  for  his  cattle  in  the  cave  of  Cyllene  ; 
Maia  stands  by  her  new-born  son,  who,  in  his  cradle,  lies  hid  in 
a  corner  among  the  lierd.^  Heracles  and  Apollo  contending  for 
the  Delphic  tripod.  Heracles  seated  in  the  bowl  he  had  received 
from  Apollo,  crossing  the  sea  to  Spain ;  outside  the  vase  is  the 
Death  of  Hector.^  Ai'iadne  riding  on  a  panther.  Triptolemus- 
on  his  winged  car,  drawn  by  serpents.^  Midas  with  ass's  ears, 
seated  on  his  throne,  and  his  servant  standing  before  him  with 
one  of  the  tell-tale  reeds  which  whispered  the  secret  to  the  world.' 

2  JIus.  Gregor.  II.  tav.  82,  2.  '  Mus.  Gresor.  II.  tav.  74,  1. 

2  Mus.  Gregor.  II.  tav.  81,  1.  *  Mus.  Gregor.  II.  tav.  76. 

*  Mus.  Gregor.  II.  tav.  79,  1  ;  81,  1.  "  It  is  so  called  in  the  exposition  to  Mus. 
5  Mus.  Gregor.  II.  tav.  87.  Gregor.  II.  tav.  72  ;  jiikI  so  Dr.  Braun 
«  Mus.  Gregor.  II.  tav.  67,  2.  interprets  it  (Ann.  Inst.  18-14,  p.  211,. 
'  This  is  a  burlesque.     Mus.  Gregor.  II.  tav.  d'  Agg.   D.)  ;  but  it  is  more  like  one 

tav.  G7,  3.  of  the  crooks  often  represented  in  the  hands- 

*  Mus.  Gregor.  II.  tav.  83.  l.J  of  peasants. 


474  KOME.  [CHAP.  Lxiii. 

Some  of  the  smaller  goblets  are  not  painted  externalh',  but 
have  tlie  maker's  name  m scribed ;  and  on  not  a  few  is  the 
salutation  xaipe  kai  hiei — "  Iluil,  and  drink  !  "  Another  inscrip- 
tion, often  seen  on  these  goblets,  ho  hais  kalos,  shows  that  the 
vase  was  a  present  of  affection  to  some  "  beautiful  youth."  A 
few,  however,  bear  inscriptions  in  a  language  utterly  unintelligible, 
or  rather  in  no  language  at  all ;  for  the  epigraphs  are  composed 
either  of  letters  put  together  at  random,  or  of  mere  shapeless 
-dots,  grouped  in  imitation  of  words. 

The  glass  cabinet  in  this  room  contains  a  number  of  curious 
articles  in  potter}- — rhyta,  and  other  fantastic  vases,  in  the  forms 
■of  human  beings  or  heads,  sometimes  with  a  double  face,  and  of 
various  beasts  and  birds;  as  well  as  some  black  wai-e  of  high 
antiquity.^  Two  beautiful  j)hial(e,  or  drinking-bowls,  of  black 
A\-are,  with  quadrigce  in  relief,  are  rather  Roman  than  Etruscan. 

Here  are  also  a  few  painted  vases  of  ordinary  forms.  One,  a 
beautiful  oenochoc,  bears  a  scene  from  the  Etruscan  cockpit — the 
literal,  not  the  naval  site  so  designated.'*  The  lustre  of  this  vase 
is  most  brilliant.  Another  beautiful  cenocho'e  shows  a  Persian 
monarch  receiving  an  ampliora  from  his  queen.^  A  third  vase  of 
the  same  form  displays  "  Mexeleos  "  rushing,  sword  in  hand, 
to  take  vengeance  on  his  faithless  spouse.  "Elene,"  with 
dishevelled  hair,  flies  for  refuge  to  the  Palladium  ;  though  little 
•would  Minerva  avail  her;  but  her  own  peculiar  patroness,  the 
laughter-loving  "Aphrodite,"  interposes,  stepping  between  the 
son  of  Atreus  and  his  vengeance.  He,  evidently  startled  at  the 
apparition,  lets  his  sword  droj),  and  confesses  the  power  of  Love, 
v\'ho  hovers  over  him  with  a  chaplet,  while  soft  Persuasion 
("  Peitho  ")  stands  behind  him.  The  moral  may  be  bad,  but 
the  design  is  admirable ;  in  truth,  this  is  one  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful and  brilliant  vases  in  the  Museum.  Third  style. — Vulci.^ 
On  a  calpis,  in  the  same  st^de,  Heracles  is  seen  reclining  on  a 
couch  of  masonry,  and  wakes  to  find  the  Satyrs  have  stolen  his 
weapons. — Vatican  Library.'^ 

A  beautiful  xirochoos  of  Pallas,  helmet  in  hand  ;  and  an  amj^hora 
with  a  nymph  holding  a  spear ;  both  with  a  brilliant  lustre. 

An  amphora  in  a  late  st^de  shows  Orestes  and  Pylades  about 
to  slay  Clytsemnestra,  on  her  knees  between  them.     An  amphora, 

^  Mus.  Gregor.  II.  tav.  93,  9G-9S.  subject  is  treated  in  a  very  similar  manner 

■*  Mu3.  Gregor.  II.  tav.  5,  1.  in  a  bronze  miiTor  from  Cervetri,  illustrated 

-*  Mus.  Gregor.  II.  tav.  4,  2.  in  Mon.  Inst,  1866,  tav.  33. 

s  Mua.  Gregor.    II.    tav.    5,    2.  This           '  Mus.  Gregor.  II.  tav.  13,  1. 


<:hap.  lxiii.]     MUSEO    GREGORIANO— THE    BRONZES.  475 

in  the  Second  sh-le,  has  a  Gorgon  running,  -with  wings  out- 
spread. 

At  tlie  end  of  the  room  are  two  beautiful  vases  in  the  Second 
style. — Achilles  and  Ajax  playing  at  dice  ;  and  ^Eneas  escaping 
from  Troy,  carrying  liis  father  Anchises  on  his  back,  and  led  by 
Lis  mother  Yenus. 

In  the  cases  are  some  interesting  and  curious  specimens  of 
ancient  glass. 

EooM  OF  THK  Bronzes  and  Jewellery. 

This  is  a  most  interesting  chamber,  containing  a  great  variety 
of  articles  in  metal  from  the  tombs  of  Etruria. 

One  of  the  first  objects  that  strike  you  on  entering  is  a  couch 
of  bronze,  with  a  raised  place  for  the  head,  and  the  bottom  formed 
of  a  lattice-work  of  thin  bars.  Though  probably  just  such  a 
couch  as  the  early  inhabitants  of  Ital}'  were  wont  to  use,  it  served 
as  a  bier,  for  it  Avas  found  in  the  Keguliui-Galassi  tomb  at 
■Cervetri,  and  doubtless  once  bore  a  corpse.^ 

Around  it  stand  four  tripods,  each  supporting  a  huge  caldron 
of  bronze,  with  reliefs,  and  having  several  handles  in  the  shape  of 
dragons'  heads,  in  one  case  tm'ued  inwards  to  the  bowl.  These 
were  all  found  in  the  above  mentioned  tomb  ^ — indeed,  the  most 
interesting  articles  in  this  chamber  come  from  that  celebrated 
sepulchre. 

Six  large  circular  shields,  three  feet  in  diameter,  embossed 
with  reliefs — like  the  round  buclders  of  the  heroic  age,  the 
aar-ibes  €vkvkXol  of  Homer ;  four  smaller  ones,  about  half  the  size, 
^decorated  vnth  a  sort  of  rosette  in  the  midst  of  three  panthers ; 
and  twelve  disks,  too  small  to  have  served  an}^  purpose  but 
ornament— now  hang  round  the  walls  of  this  chamber,  and  were 
found  in  the  same  tomb,  where  the  smaller  ones  were  suspended 
from  the  walls  and  ceiling.^ 

On  one  of  the  shelves  opposite  the  window  is  a  singular 
instrument  on  wheels,  having  a  deep  bowl  in  the  centre,  just  like 
a  modern  dripping-pan,  but  decorated  with  reliefs  of  rampant 
lions.  It  was  an  incense-burner,  and  stood  by  the  side  of  the 
l)ier  in  the  Kegulini  sepulchre."      All  those  articles  are  by  some 

^  See  Vol.  I.  p.  2G7.     It  is  about  6  feet  seems  to  be  au  illustration  of  the  Tprjrhy 

Jong,   2  ft.  3  in.    wide,    and.  about  1   foot  Ac'xos  of  Paris  and  Helen,  Iliad  III.  448. 

iigh,  standing  on  six  legs.     It  was  orna-  *  Mus.  Gregor.  I.  tav.  15,  1,  16,  1-3. 

jmented  with  embossed  reliefs  of  men,  lions,  '  ilus.  Gregor.  I.  tav.  18-20. 

sphinxes,  dogs,  and  flowers.     JIus.  Gregor.  *  Mus.  Gregor.  I.  tav,  15,  5,  6. 
L  tav.  16,  8,  9  J  17.     This  reticulated  bier 


476 


EOME. 


[chap.  l.XIIU 


regardcil  rather  as  Pelasgic  than  Etruscan.  In  either  ease  they 
are  of  early  Italic  art.  Immediately  ahove  is  the  shield  found  at 
Bomarzo,  still  retaining,  it  is  said,  its  lining  of  wood,  and  braces 
of  leather ;  hut  you  are  not  able  to  inspect  it  closel}'.^ 

On  the  wall  on  each  side  hang  half  a  dozen  small  disks,  some 
with  the  head  of  the  horned  Bacchus,  others  with  that  of  a  lion^ 
in  the  centre.  They  were  found  in  a  tomb  at  Tarquinii,  and  are 
supposed  to  have  been  suspended  on  its  walls,  or  to  have  adorned 
the  coffers  of  its  ceiling."* 

On  the  walls  also  hang  many  other  articles  of  armour,  defensive 
and  oiEfensive,  mostly  from  Vulci — helmets^ 
cuirasses,  greaves,  shield-braces,  spears, 
javelins,  arrow-heads,  battle-axes.  Among 
them  may  be  observed  a  singular  visor  or 
ftice-bit,  shown  in  the  annexed  wood-cut; 
and  a  long  trumpet  or  litiiiis,  with  the  end 
curved  like  a  crook,  found  at  Yulci ;  the 
only  specimen  I  remember  to  have  seen  of 
that  instrument,  though  it  was  jiecidiarly  Etruscan.  It  is  about 
four  feet  in  length. ^ 


BRONZE    VISOR. 


ETRUSCAX    LITUUS    OR    TRUMPET,    OF    BRONZE. 


Besides  these  weapons  of  war,  more  peaceful  implements  in 
bronze  are  suspended  on  the  walls.  Fans,  or  rather  the  handles- 
of  fans,  with  holes  for  wires  or  threads,  to  attach  the  feathers 
or  leaves.  Mirrors  in  abundance,  of  which  particular  mention 
will  presently  be  made.  Pater(e  with  handles,  often  of  human 
forms,  as  where  a  nude  nymph  holds  a  mirror  in  one  hand^ 
while  combing  her  hair  with  the  other ;  or  where  a  Juno,  half- 
draped,  supports  the  bowl  with  her  upraised  wings.^  Plaques  of 
bronze  with  archaic  reliefs  in  repousse  work,  the  decorations,  it 
may  be,  of  long  perished  furniture.  A  vase,  like  a  powder-flask 
embossed,  with  movable  handle,  remarkable  for  the  site  of  its 


'  See  Vol.  I.  p.  172. 

■•  See  Vol.  I.  J).  415  ;  and  the  wood-cut 
at  p.  401. 

'  For  the  armour  sea  Mus.  Gregor.  I. 
tav.  21. 


*  The  nymph  combing  her  hair  is  copied 
on  the  cover  of  this  work  ;  the  patera  she 
supports  has  been  exchanged  for  a  speculum,. 
or  mirror.     Mus.  Gregor.  I.  tav.  12,  13. 


CHAP.  Lxiii.]     ^[[J.S1<]0    GREGORIANO— THE    BRONZES. 


47" 


<liscovery,  Cosa,  where  so  little  sepulcliral  fiiniiture  has  5'et  been 
(lishitcrrc'd."  Ten  bronze  spits,  four  feet  long,  strung  and  bound 
togotht'r,  with  a  figured  handle — ;just  such  as  are  represented 
■on  on(>  of  tlie  pillars  in  the  Tomb  of  the  Ileliefs  at  Cervetri — 
2)robably  for  sacrificial  use.^ 

In  the  glass-cases  in  the  corners  of  the  room  are  antique 
bronze  articles  in  great  variety.  In  one  are  numerous  small 
Jigures  of  Etruscan  divinities,  from  the  nine  great  gods  that 
-wielded  the  thunder,  down  to  the 
■conunon  herd  of  Lures  and  Mdncs  ; 
handles  of  cistc,  or  of  caldrons,  or 
it  may  be  of  wooden  furniture,  of 
elegant  and  fanciful  forms  and  rich 
decorations,  often  with  figures  in 
relief,  or  in  the  round  ;^  a  torque  of 
bronze ;  a  pair  of  Etruscan  gloves, 
■or  two  hands  of  bronze,  studded 
with  gold  nails — either  gauntlets,  or 
votive  offerings — the  palms  seem  to 
have  been  of  leather;  strigils;  hair- 
pins, ending  in  the  heads  of  rams 
or  dogs,  in  a  human  hand,  a  lotus- 
flower,  an  acorn ;  stijU,  or  writing 
implements;  ladles  of  various  forms; 
cullenders  or  strainers ;  cups;  pails; 
•caldrons.  Vases  in  great  variety, 
some  of  uncouth,  clumsy  forms, 
•composed  of  plates  hammered  into 
shape,  and  nailed  together,  the 
oarliest  mode  of  Etruscan  toreutics; 
others  more  elegant,  yet  still  fan- 
tastic— lumian,  and  other  animal 
forms,  being  tortured  to  the  service 

of  the  artist.  A  specimen  of  this  is  shown  in  the  annexed 
wood-cut  of  a  jug,  in  the  form  of  a  female  head,  with  an 
iicanthus-leaf  at  tlie  back ;  and  others  are  in  the  form  of  bulls, 
and  pigs,  wliich  did  duty  as  hand-irons. 

Krciujrcc,   flesh-hooks,   or  grappling-irons,   with    six    or   eight 


niloNZE    E«'EK. 


">  Mus.  Gregor.  I.  tav.  10.  Gregor.  I.  tav.  >')8-60,  show  the  great  taste 

*  See  Vol.  I.  p.  254,  ami  tlio  wood-cut       and  elegant  fancy  of  tho  Etruscans  in  this 
at  p.  251.  branch  of  art. 

'  The  illustrations   given  in   the  Mus. 


478 


EOME. 


[chap.  Lxiir^ 


prongs,  of  formidable  appearance,  and  mysterious  meaning,  but 

probably  culinary  or  sacrificial  instruments,  for  taking  up  and 
turning  over  flesh.  One  with  no  prongs,  but 
similar  branches  of  metal  terminating  in  ser- 
pents' heads,  shows  that  they  may  sometimes 
have  served  other  purposes.^ 

Among  the  bronze  figures,  two  are  particu- 
larly worthy  of  notice.  One  is  a  small  statue  of 
Minerva,  with  an  owl  on  the  back  of  her  hand,, 
and  with  vestiges  of  wings  on  her  shoulders,, 
from  Orte.-^  The  other  is  an  Etruscan  aruspex^ 
in  a  woollen  tiitulus,  or  high  peaked  cap,  close 
tunic  Avithout  sleeves,  and  a  loose  pallium  with, 
broad  border,  fastened  on  the  breast  with  ajihula. 
His  feet  and  arms  are  bare.  On  his  left  thigh  is 
an  Etruscan  inscription.  See  the  annexed  wood- 
cut. This  is  very  curious,  as  exhibiting  the 
peculiar  costume  of  the  Etruscan  arusjjex.  It 
was  found  in  a  tomb  by  the  banks  of  the  Tiber.^ 
On  the  shelf  opposite  the  windows  are  nume- 
rous candelabra,  of  elegant  form  and  fanciful 
conception,  where  all  kinds  of  animal  life  are 
pressed  into  the  service  of  the  toreutic  artists. 

Two  specimens  of  this  beautiful  sepulchral  fui-niture  are  given. 

in  the  woodcuts  on  the  opj^osite  page.^ 


EIllUSCAN    AKUSPEX 
IN    BRONZE, 


^  See  the  illn.strations  at  p.  411  of  Vol. 
I.,  and  Mus.  Gregor.  I.  tar.  47. 

-  This  is  a  representation  said  to  be 
unique  in  metal.  Gerhard  takes  it  to 
represent  Minerva  in  her  character  of 
Fortuna,  or  the  Etruscan  Nortia.  Gottheit. 
d.  Etnisk.  p.  61,  taf.  4,  1  ;  cf.  Mus. 
Gregor.  I.  tav.  43,  1. 

3  Mus.  Gregor.  I.  tav.  43,  2.  This 
figure  is  illlustrated  by  some  of  the  ancient 
coins  of  Etruria,  which  bear  on  the  obverse 
the  head  of  an  aruspex,  in  a  precisely 
similar  cap  ;  and  on  the  reverse  an  axe,  a 
sacrificial  knife,  and  two  crescents,  said  to 
mark  its  value  as  a  sernis.  Slarchi  and 
Tessieri,  Ms  Grave,  cl.  Ill,  tav.  2.  These 
coins  have  been  referred  to  Ftesula;,  the 
city  where  there  was  a  college  of  Etruscan 
augurs,  but  I^Ielchiorri  (Bull.  Inst.  1839, 
p.  122)  would  rather  attribute  them  to 
Luna,  on  account  of  the  crescent  stamp. 
Ut  supra,  p.  65,  and  the  cut  at  p.  63. 


■•  See  also  the  woodcut  at  page  190. 
These  candelabra  vary  from  10  inches  to- 
5  feet  in  height,  but  the  average  is  betweeu 
3  and  4  feet.  They  invariably  stand  on 
three  legs,  either  of  men,  lions,  horses, 
stags,  dogs,  or  birds.  In  one  ca.se,  as- 
shown  in  the  cut,  the  tripod  is  formed  by 
the  bodies  of  three  human  figures.  The 
shafts  generally  rise  directly  from  the  base, 
And  are  often  fluted,  or  twisted,  or  knotted 
like  the  stem  of  a  tree,  but  a  figure  some- 
times intervenes  as  in  the  above  cut.  It 
was  a  favourite  conceit  to  introduce  a  cat 
or  squirrel  chasing  a  bird  up  the  shaft, 
and  the  bowl  above  has  often  little  birds, 
around  it,  as  though  it  were  a  nest,  so  that 
the  whole  is  then  intended  to  represent 
a  tree.  Sometimes  a  boy  or  monkey  is 
climbing  the  shaft,  or  a  snake  is  coiling 
round  it.  It  often  terminates  above,  not 
in  a  bowl  but  in  a  number  of  branches  from 
which  lamps  were  suspended,  and  in  the 


CHAP.  Lxiii.]    MUSEO    GEEGOEIANO— THE    BEONZES. 


479- 


Neai*  the  bier  is  a  votive  statue  of  a  boy,  with  a  bulla  round 
his  neck.  He  lias  lost  the  left  arm,  but  on  his  shoulder  are  the 
remains  of  an  Etruscan  inscription  in  four  lines.  This  statue 
was  found  at  Tarquinii,  and  is  sup^Dosed  to  represent  Tages,  the 
mysterious  boy-god,  who  sprung  from  the  furrows  of  that  site.^ 


ETRUSCAN    CANDELABRA. 


A  similar  boy,  with  a  bulla  about  his  neck,  a  bird  in  his  hand, 
and  an  Etruscan  inscription  on  his  right  leg,  from  Perugia, 
stands  by  the  window.^ 


midst  of  them  is  a  figure  of  a  deity  or 
winged  genius,  of  a  faun,  a  subulo  playing 
Lis  double-pipes,  a  dancer  with  castanets, 
(see  the  cut  at  page  190),  or,  it  may  he,  of 
a  ■warrior  on  foot  or  horseback.  One  of  these 
candelabra  bears  an  Etnisain  inscription. 
Most  of  them  are  horn  Vulci,  but  they  are 
found  also  on  many  other  Etruscan  sites. 
ilus.  Greg.  I.  tav.  48-55. 


*  Vide  Vol.  I.  p.  41 S.  Illustrated  by 
Lanzi,  Sagg.  II.  tav.  11,  5;  Micali,  Ant. 
Pop.  Ital.  III.  p.  64,  tav.  44 ;  Mus.  Greg. 
I.  tav.  43,  4. 

*  ifus.  Gregor.  I.  tav.  43,  5.  Conestabile 
Mon.  Perug.  tav.  99,  6.  The  inscription 
in  Latin  letters  would  run  thus : — Phleres. 
Teksansl  Kver. 


480  ROME.  [chap,  lxiii. 

At  this  end  of  the  room  stands  the  bronze  statue  of  a  warrior, 
■commonly  called  ]\Iars,  rather  less  than  life,  fomid  at  U'odi  in 
1835.  On  the  fring'e  of  his  cuirass  is  an  inscription  in  Etruscan 
■characters,  but  perhaps  in  the  Uiubrian  language.^ 

Flanking  this  statue  are  two  tripods  ;  one  very  striking,  termi- 
nating below  in  lions'  paws,  resting  on  frogs,  and  decorated  above 
Avith  groups  of  panthers  devouring  stags,  alternating  with  human 
figures,  in  one  case  representing  Hercules  and  loaliis.^ 

At  this  end  of  the  room  by  the  window  is  a  beautiful  cista,  or 
casket,  of  oval  form,  about  two  feet  long.  The  handle  is  com- 
posed of  two  swans,  bearing  a  boy  and  girl  respectively,  who  clasp 
the  bird's  neck.  The  casket  is  decorated  with  incised  designs — 
borders  of  flowers,  and  elegant  Greek  patterns,  and  the  combat 
of  Achilles  and  his  followers  with  Penthesileia  and  her  Amazons. 
The  beauty  and  spirit  of  these  figures  recall  the  Phigaleian 
marbles.  The  art,  in  truth,  is  not  Etruscan,  but  Greek.^  The 
scene  is  repeated  three  times  round  the  body  of  the  casket.  On  the 
lid  are  four  heads,  amid  flowers.  "Within  it  were  found  a  mirror, 
two  broken  combs  of  bone,  two  hair-j^ins,  one  of  bone,  the  other 
of  bronze  ;  an  ear-pick,  and  two  small  glass  vessels  containing 
rouge.  These  caskets  are  rarelj^liscovered  in  Etruria.  They  are 
found  principally  in  stone  sarcophagi  at  Palestrina,  the  ancient 
Prffineste,  in  Ijatium;^  but  this  one  from  a  tomb  at  Vulci  yields 
in  beauty  to  few  yet  known,  though  surpassed  b}'  that  peerless 
<jne  in  the  Kircherian  ]Museum.^ 

There  are  a  few  other  c'lstc,  but  of  inferior  beauty.  One,  also 
from  Vulci,  has  a  handle  formed  of  two  sea-horses ;  and  winged 
Scjdlas  or  mermaids  at  the  setting  on  of  the  feet.^  Another  has 
its  handle  formed  of  two  youths  wrestling,  and  the  subjects  it 
bears  are  of  a  pahestric  character' — men  boxing  with  the  cestus, 

7  This  statue  was  found  among  tlie  ruins       Ann.  Inst.  18G6,  pp.  168-177. 

of  a  temple  at  Todi,  the  ancient  Tudor.  ^  Mus.    Gregor.    I.    tav.    40-42.     Illus- 

The  helmet  is  a  restoration.    The  eyes  were  trations  of  this  and  all  the  most  beautiful 

supplied  with  stones,  as  their  sockets  are  of  such  caskets  are  given  hy  Professor  Ger- 

liollow.     Bull.  Inst.   1835,  p.  130  ;  1838,  hard  in  his  Etruskische  Spiegel.     Whether 

p.  113.     Mus,  Greg.  I.  tav.  44,  45.  fiom  the  doubt  attaching  to  their  purpose, 

8  Mus.  Gregor.  I.  tav.  56.  or  owing  to  the  idea  that  they  contained 

9  Ann.  Inst.  1855,  p.  64.  Men.  Inst.  the  paraphernalia  of  sacrifices,  they  have 
tav.  18.  received  from   the   Italians  the   name  of 

^  There  are  no  less  than  thirty  of  these  "date  mistiche."     It   is  clear,    however, 

cisie  in  the  liarberini  collection  alone,  the  from  the  character  of  their  contents,  that 

fruit  of   excavations  made  by  the  Prince  the   only  mysteries  attending   them   were 

between  1855  and  1866.     A  detailed  de-  those  of  the  female  bath  and  toilet. 
scription    of   them,    and    of   all   the    cistc  ^  l\lus.  Gregor.  I.  tav.  37,  4. 

known  to  that  date,  is  given  by  R.  Schonc, 


CHAP,  i.xiii.]    MT^SEO    GEEGOEIANO— THE    MIEEOES.  481 

or  beinj;"  aiiointiMl  loi-  the  contest.  ( )u  the  lid  are  marine  monsters. 
Ill  this  were  found  three  unguent-pots,  two  of  uUibaster,  one  of 
Avood,  together  witli  a  broken  strigil.^  A  third  lias  its  handle 
formed  of  a  Satyr  and  ^Mamad,  naked,  with  arms  entwined,  and 
the  other  hand  in  each  case  resting  on  the  hip,' 

On  stands  around  the  room  are  several  circular  braziers  or 
censers,  about  two  feet  in  diameter,  resting  on  lions'  legs.  On 
them  still  lie  the  tongs,  shovel,  and  poker,  or  ratlier 
rake,  found  with  them.  The  tongs  are  on  wheels, 
and  terminate  in  serpents'  heads  ;  the  shovel's 
handle  ends  in  a  swan's  neck;  and  the  rake  in  a 
human  hand,  as  shown  in  the  annexed  wood-cut. 
These  are  from  Vulci,  but  such  are  found  also  on 
other  Etruscan  sites.'' 

At  one  end  of  the  room  is  a  war-chariot — a  hi;f<i 
— not  of  Eti'uscan  antiquity,  but  Koman,  found 
many  years    since   at  Koma  \'ecchia,  in  the  Cam-  ^ 

pagna,  six  miles  on  the  Appian  AVay.  The  body 
alone  is  ancient — the  pole  and  wheels  are  restored, 
with  the  exception  of  the  bronze  ornaments."  By 
its  side  is  a  colossal  arm  of  bronze,  also  Roman,  of 
the  time  of  Trajan,  and  of  great  beauty  ;  and  the 
tail  of  a  huge  dcdphin — both  found  in  the  sea  at 
Civita  Yecchia.  Here  is  also  a  male  torso,  larger 
than  life,  with  drapery  over  the  slioulder ;  and  a 
small  bronze  statue  lieadless  and  mutilated,  but  fikk-rake. 
finely  modelled. 

Those  whose  patience  is  equal  to  their  t'uriosity,  will  find 
abundant  interest  in  the  specula,  or  mirrors,  which  hang  on  the 
walls;  but  as  the  figures  were  at  first  only  lightly  graven  on 
them,  and  as  the  bronze  is  often  much  corroded,  it  is  not  always 
easy  to  distinguish  the  subject,  or  even  the  outlines,  of  the 
decorations.  Some,  it  will  be  observed,  retain  traces  of  gilding. 
It  must  be  remembered  that  it  was  not  the  side  on  which  tlie 
figures  are  drawn  that  was  used  as  a  mirror,  but  the  other, 
which  was  always  highly  polished.  Among  the  most  remarkable 
jire : — 

One  with  figures  in  relief — Aurora  carrying  the  body  of  her 
son  ^Nlemnon.  Were  it  not  for  her  Avings,  she  might  Avell  be 
taken  for  the  Virgin  bearing  the  dead  Saviour;  she  has  even  a 

■*  Mils.  (Tre;,'or.  T.  t;iv.  37,  1.  ••  Jliia.  (jregor.  I.  tav.  14. 

"  Miin.  (iregor.  I.  tav.  37,  3.  '   liighinuiii,  SIoii.  Etnis.  VI.  tav.  U.  5. 

Vol..     11.  1     I 


482  EOME.  [chap,  lxiii. 

lialo  round  litr  head  to  iuciease  the  resembhinct'.  In  the  archaic 
style,  which  is  rarel}' seen  in  Etruscan  mirrors,  lieheved  mirrors 
also  are  of  great  rarity. — From  Vulci.^ 

"  CiiALCHAs,"  so  called  in  Etruscan  characters,  standing  at 
an  altar,  inspecting  the  entrails  of  the  victim. — Yulci.^ 

"  TiNiA,"  the  p]truscan  Jove,  gi-asping  two  sorts  of  thunder- 
bolts, is  embraced  by  "Thethis"  (Thetis),  and  "Thesan" 
(Aurora),  both  winged,  as  usual  witli  Etruscan  divinities,  each 
beseeching  him  in  favour  of  her  son  in  the  coming  combat. 
"Menrva"  (Minerva)  stands  by,  and  api)ears  to  remind  him  that 
Memnon  is  doomed  by  iiite.     In  a  rude  and  careless  style  of  art.^ 

"Pele"  (Peleus)  and  "Atlxta"  (Atalanta),  in  the  wrestling- 
match.  He  is  naked,  but  she  has  a  cloth  round  her  loins;  in 
better  style  than  the  last. — Yulci.^ 

Hercules,  here  called  "Kalaxike,"  from  his  "glorious  victory," 
holds  the  api^les  he  has  just  taken  from  "Aril"  (Atlas),  who 
bears  the  celestial  globe  on  his  shoulders.  In  still  better  style. 
— Vulci.'^ 

"  Nethuxs  "  (Xeptune),  "  Usil  "  (Phoebus),  and  "  Tiiesan  " 
(Aurora).  Below  these  figures,  a  male  marine  deity,  with  open 
wings,  and  legs  ending  "  in  snaky  twine,"  holds  aloft  a  dolphin 
in  each  hand.  In  an  excellent  style  of  art.  This  mirror  is  very 
bright,  and  might  still  almost  serve  its  original  purpose. — A'ulci 
or  Toscanella.* 

"TuRMs  AiTAs,"  or  the  infernal  Mercury,  supporting  a  soul, 
called  "  HiNTHiAL  Terasias,"  or  Teiresias.  A  figure  sitting  by 
Avitli  drawn  sword  is  called  "  Uthuie,"  or  more  probably 
*'  Uthuse  "  (Odysseus),  for  the  scene  evidently  represents 
Ulysses  in  Hades,  consulting  the  soul  of  Teiresias,  though  it 
does  not  accord  in  ever}'  respect  with  the  description  given  b}' 
Homer. — Yulci.^ 

8  Tliis    is    usiially    styled    Aurora    and  I.  tav.  ,3G,  2. 
Ccpbalus,   but  Dr.   Braun  with  more  pro-  ■*  It  lias  been  doubted  if  the  first  name 

Ijability  takes  the  corpse  for  that  of  Mem-  be  "  Nethuns"  or  "  Sethlns. "     Sethlans  is 

HOD.     iVIoD.    Ined.   Inst.   III.   tav.    23  c.  ;  the    Etruscan    name    of  Vulcan  ;    but   the 

Mus.    Gregor.    I.    tav.    36,    1  ;     Abeken,  figure  on  this  mirror  with  a  trident  must 

I\nttelitalien,  taf.  7.  ])e  the  god  of  the  sea.     Etnisk.  Spieg.  taf. 

»  Gerhard,    Etnisk.     Spieg.    taf.     223  ;  76  ;  Mon.   Ined.  Inst.    II.   tav.    60  ;  Mus. 

]\Ius.  Gregor.  I.  tav.  29,  1.  (iregor.  I.  tav.  24. 

'  Mus.  Gregor.  I.  tav.  31,  1.  *  Odys.    XI.,    48-91.      Ulysses   having 

*  Her   cloth    is    marked  with  a  wheel,  sacrificed  a  black  sheep  to  Teiresias,   .sat 

fiuppose<l  to  be  the  sign  of  victory  in  the  down,  and  drew  his  .sword  to  prevent  any 

chariot-race.     ^lus.   Gregor.  I.  tav.  35,  1  ;  other   souls    from  ajiproaching   the    blood 

(ierhard,  Etrusk.  Sjiieg.  taf.  224.  liefore    he   had    consulted  the  soothsayer, 

'  Etrusk.  Si)ieg.  taf.  137;  Mus.  Gregor.  who  came,  not  supported  as  a  dying  man 


CHAP.  1.XIII.]    MUSEO    GEEGOEIANO— THE    MIEROES.  483 

"AruL"  (Apollo),  ":\Ikxuva"  (:\Iinerva),  "TruAN"  (Venus) 
and  *'Lai;ax"  in  conversation  before  an  Ionic  temple.  Very 
bad  style.— Orte." 

"TiNiA,"  "TiiruMs,"  and  "'ruALXA,"  or  Jupiter,  ^Mercury,  and 
Juno. — Yuk'i." 

''HERCiiE"  crowned  by  a  winged  fate-goddess,  called  "Mkan." 
"Yilae"  (lolaus)  sits  by.  In  better  st3'le  than  some  of  the 
foregoing. — Vulci.'^ 

The  head  of  a  girl  on  one  of  these  mirrors  is  a  very  unusual 
subject. — Videi.''^ 

Jove  on  his  throne,  with  his  sceptre  in  hand.  Mercury,  with 
the  infant  Bacchus,  is  dancing  before  him. — Orte.^ 

Aurora  in  her  qnadr'uia  drawn  b}'"  Avinged  horses.  The  grace 
of  the  female  figure  is  contrasted  with  the  spirit  of  the  steeds. — 
Vulci." 

Apollo  in  the  midst  of  three  Muses,  one  of  whom  is  "Kuturpa," 
and  a  draped  male  figure  called  "Archaze,"  all  in  front  of  an 
Ionic  temple,  over  which  a  satyr,  called  "Eris,"  is  floating  in  the 
air. — Bomarzo.'^ 

The  meeting  of  Peleus  and  Thetis.  PlKcbus  behind,  rising 
from  the  sea.  A  male  genius  and  some  female  figures  looking 
on.  In  a  good  style  of  art,  and  in  excellent  preservation.  This 
mirror  is  gilt. — A'ulci.'^ 

The  cases  by  the  windows  contain  some  ciuious  relics.  Coins 
— weights — small  bulls  and  other  figures  in  bronze,  among  them 
a  little  statue  of  INIinerva,  probabh'  votive  offerings — locks — 
handles  to  furniture — -Jibuhe,  belt-clasps — iron  daggers — chain- 
bits,  jointed — articles  in  bone  carved  witli  reliefs.  Here  are 
numerous  small  rude  idols  or  lares  of  black  earthenware,  found 
around  the  bier  in  the  Regulini-Galassi  tomb  at  Cervetri.  Their 
exceeding  rudeness  and  shapelessness  proclaim  their  high 
antiquity.  In  truth  they  are  considered  Pelasgic  rather  than 
Etruscan.'  Here  is  also  the  curious  bottle,  with  a  I'elasgic 
alphabet    and    spelling-lesson    scratched    on   it,   described    in    a 

\>y  Mercury,    Imt  alone,    witli   Lis  golilun  ^  Ktrusk.  Spieg.  taf.  li'l  ;  Mils.  Gregor. 

sceptre  in  liis  IiuikI,  he  prophesied  to  the  I.  tav.  32,  2. 

.sou  of  Laertes.     For  illustrations  see  Ger-  '  Mus.  Gregor.  I.  tav.  2(i,  1. 

hard,   Ktnisk.    Spieg.   taf.  240  ;  Gottheit.  '  ^^^s.  (iregor.  I.  tav.  34,  2. 

d.   Etrusk.   taf.   VI.   1,   pp.   35,  30  ;  Mus.  "  Mna.  Gregor.  I.  tav.  35,  2. 

Gregor.   I.   tav.   33,    1  ;  .Mon.   Iiied.   Inst.  =•  A[on.   Ined.    Just.   II.    tav.    23  ;   Mus. 

II.  tav.  29.  Gregor.  I.  tav.  2;"), 

''  Mus.  (rregor.  I.  tav.  2S,  1.  •*  Mus.  Gregor.  I.  tav.  23. 

^  Ktrusk.  Spieg.   taf.  7."»  ;  Mus.  Gregor.  '  Mus.   Gregor.    II.    tav,    103.     See  the 

I.  tav.  29,  2.  wood-cut.  Vol,  I.  p.  267. 

I   I   2 


•1.S4 


EOME. 


[chap,  lxiii. 


piwiDUs  chapter;''  and  aiiDther  conical  pot  with  an  inscription 
in  the  same  m3'sterious  hniguage,  running  spirally  round  it, 
Avhich  has  been  jironounced  by  Ijepsius  to  be  a  hexameter 
ct)uplet."     Both  are  from  the  tombs  of  Cervetri. 

But  the  articles  which    perhaps    will  excite  most  general  in- 
terest are   a   pair  of  clogs — a   pair   of   Etruscan  clogs,  jointed, 

which,  though  not  of  the  form  most 
approved    in    our    days,    doubtless 
stood  some  Etruscan  fair  in  good 
stead.     They  are   formed  of  cases 
of  bronze,  filled  with  wood,  which, 
in  spite  of  its    great    antiquity,  is 
still  preserved  within  them.     Thus 
they  must  have  combined  strength 
with  lightness:   and  if  clogs   be  a 
test  of  civiUsation,  the  Italians  of 
two    thousand     years     since    were 
considerably'   in    advance    of   "  the 
leading  nation  of  Euroj^e  "  in  the- 
nineteenth     century,     whose     pea- 
santry still  clatter  along  in  wooden 
>;(ihots.     These  clogs  Avere  found  in 
a  tomb  at  A^ulci ;  and  they  are  not 
the  sole  specimens  of  such  articles- 
from  Etruscan  sepulchres.^ 
The  chief  glory  of  this  room,  however,  if  not  of  the  ^Museum, 
is  the  revolving  cabinet  in  the  centre.     AVhat  food  for  astonish- 
ment and  admiration  !     Here  is  a  jeweller's  shop — all  glittering 
with  i)recious  metals  and  stones,  with  articles  in  great  variety — 
"  Infinite  riches  in  a  little  room  I  " 

and,  save  that  the  silver  is  dimmed  and  tarnislied,  it  is  just  such 
a  stock  in  trade  as  an  Etruscan  Bundell  miglit  have  displayed 
tlu'ee  thousand  years  since !  Here  the  fop,  the  warrior,  the 
senator,  the  augur,  the  belle,  might  all  suit  tlieir  taste  for  decora- 
tion,— in  truth,  a  modern  fair  one  need  not  disdain  to  heighten 


¥\<i.  1 


ETRL'SOAN    JOIXTED    CLOGS. 


''  A  facsimile  of  tlic  inscrii)tion  is  given. 
Vol.  I.  II.  271.  For  the  form  of  the  pot  see 
-Mils,  (rregor.  II.  tav.  103,  2. 

'  Vol.  I.  p.  273.  Mns.  (iregor.  II.  tav. 
9;t,  7. 

"'  In  _nj.  1  is  shown  tho  upper  jwrt  of 
the  dog,  with  the  wood  in  the  two  cases, 
;in(l  the  hinge  uniting  them.    Fiy.  2  shows 


the  metal  bottom  of  the  same  clog,  studded' 
with  nails.  Micali  gives  illustrations  of 
aniither  pair  of  such  clogs,  found  at  Vulci. 
Mon.  Lied.  tav.  XVII.  0.  There  is  a 
third  pair  in  the  collection  of  Signer  Au- 
gusto  Castellani  at  Home.  And  I  have: 
seen  a  fourth  jiair  either  at  Orvieto  or  at 
Viterbo. 


* 

CHAP.  Lxiii.J  MUSEO    GREGORIANO— THE    JEWELLERY.  48,> 

her  charms  witli  tliese  relics  of  a  low^  past  world.''  Can  Eg3'pt, 
Bab^'lon,  (ireece,  Konie,  produce  jewellcrv  of  such  exquisite  taste 
and  workmanship,  or  even  in  so  great  abundance  as  Mtruria? 

Your  astonishment  is  increased  wheu  you  hear  that  the  greater 
p.art  of  these  articles  were  the  produce  of  a  single  tomb — that 
celebrated  b}'  the  name  of  .Ueguliui-dalassi,  at  Cervetri  ;  and 
should  you  have  visited  that  gloom}'  old  sepulchre,  now  con- 
taining iu)thing  but  slime  and  serpents,  you  find  still  more  cause 
for  Avonderment  at  this  cabinet. 

The  most  striking  object  is  a  large  breastplate,  embossed  with 
twelve  bands  of  figures — sphinxes,  goats,  itcgaai,  panthers,  deer, 
and  Avinged  demons.  From  the  very  archaic  character  of  the 
adornments  it  might  have  liung  on  the  breast  of  Aaron  himself.' 
It  is  not,  however,  of  Egyptian  art.  Next  is  a  remarkable 
article,  composed  of  two  oval  plates,  united  b}'  two  broad  bands, 
all  riclilv  embossed,  and  stuck  over  with  minute  figures  of  ducks, 
and  lions.  It  was  a  decoration  for  the  head  ;  the  larger  plate  Avas 
laid  on  the  croA\'n,  and  the  other  hung  doAvn  behind.^  Then  there 
are  ver}'  massive  gold  chains  and  necklaces, — bracelets  or  armlets 
of  broad  gold  plates,  covered  Avith  filagree  Avork  to  correspond 
Avith  the  head-dress  and  breastplate, — three  earrings  six  or  seven 
inches  in  length  and  of  singular  forms,  to  match  the  princijial 
necklace, — numerous. ///^ff/cc  or  brooches,  in  filagree  Avork  of  extra- 
ordinary delicacy.  All  these  things,  together  Avith  manj'  of  the 
rings,  and  fragments  of  a  gold  garment,  Avere  found  in  a  chambei- 
of  the  remarkable  Pelasgic  tomb  at  Cervetri, — most  of  them 
arranged  so  as  to  prove  that  when  there  deposited,  they  deco- 
rated a  human  body.'  Some  of  the  brooches  and  hulhe  are  of 
amber. 

The  great  variety  oi  necklaces,  brooches,  rings  for  the  ears 
and  fingers,  hulhf,  buttons,  scavahci  in  cornelian,  and  such-like 
"braver}',"  from  Vulci  and  other  sites  in  Etruria,"^  Avould  require 
an  abler  pen  than  mine,  and  more  knoAA'ledge  of  such  matters, 

5  Mrs.    Ilaiiiiltou   Gray  states  tliat   "a  ■*  .Mus.  Gregor.  I.  tav.  68-74,  7S-8L   One 

few  winters  ago,  the  PriMcess  of  Caiiiiio  ap-  of  iXi^aafihalce  has  an  Etruscan  inscrii>tioii. 

lieareil  at  some  of  the  ambas.sador's  ffites  ill  None  of  them  in  thi.s  ^[useiim,  though  of 

Home,  with  uparuveoi  Etruscan  jewellery,  adniiralile  beauty,  rival  that  inimitable  one 

which   was  the  envy  of   the  society,    and  formerly  in  the  possession  of  Mr.  Thomas 

excelled    the    chrfs   d'ceuvre   of    Paris    or  JJlayds,  and  now  in  tlie  British  ]\[uscnm, 

Vienna."     Sepulchres  of  Etruria,  p.  272.  which  was  found  at   Vulci,  and  has  been 

'  Mus.  Gregor.  I.  tav.  82,  83.  illustrated   by  Micali,  Mon.  Ined.  tav.  21  ; 

-  Mxis.  (iregor.  I.  tav.  80,  85.  or  that,   with  an   inscriiitioii,  once  in  thu 

^  Vol.  ].   p.  268.     'SUix.  (iregor.   I.  tav.  possession  of  the  Marchcsc  Campana. 
C7,  75  77. 


486  EOME.  [chap.  lxiu. 

to  do  it  justice.  The  fair  visitor  will  soi»n  discover  more 
beauties  than  I  can  point  out.  But  I  must  say  a  word  on  the 
remarkable  collection  of  crowns  or  chaplets,  which  will  excite 
universal  admii-ation.  They  are  all  in  imitation  of  garlands  of 
leaves — oak,  laurel,  myrtle,  or  ivy  ;  and  so  truthfull}'  and  deli- 
cately are  they  wrought,  that  in  an}-  other  place  you  might  take 
them  for  specimens  of  electrotype  gilding  on  real  foliage.  No 
ornament  can  have  been  more  becoming  than  such  chaplets ; 
though,  to  tell  the  truth,  it  was  not  so  often  the  brow  of  beauty 
as  the  battered  helm  of  the  triumphant  warrior  that  they  were 
made  to  encircle.  Most  of  them  were  found  in  the  tombs  of 
Yulci,  but  one  comes  from  Ancona.' 

In  the  same  case  are  a  number  of  silver  cups,  bowls  and  saucers, 
man}'  gilt  inside,  nearly  all  from  the  same  wonderful  tomb  of 
Cervetri.  Some  are  quite  plain  ;  others  decorated  with  archaic 
reliefs,  in  repousse  work,  of  military  processions  on  foot  and  in 
chariots  ;  wild  animals  contending,  or  devouring  their  pre}' ;  a 
cow  and  calf  in  a  lotus-tliicket ;  and  a  lion-hunt,  where  the  beast 
standing  on  the  body  of  one  of  his  foes,  is  attacked  by  others  on 
foot  and  horseback,  while  a  vulture  hovers  over  him  in  expecta- 
tion of  her  prey.  These  bowls  appear  to  be  purely  Egyptian, 
but  are  now  pronounced  mere  imitations  by  Phoenician  artists.^ 
Several  of  the  plain  cups  have  the  inscription  "  Larthia,"  or 
**Mi  Lartliia  "  engraved  on  them  in  Etruscan  letters. 

Chamber  of  Paixtings. 

In  the  passage  leading  to  this  room  are  several  sepulchral 
monuments  in  stone,  bearing  Etruscan  inscriptions.  One  is  in 
the  shape  of  a  house  or  temple,  with  a  moulded  door,  as  on  the 
tombs  of  Castel  d'  Asso.  Another,  a  cippiis,  bears  the  name  of 
"  Spurixa  "  in  the  native  character;  the  name  of  the  aruspex, 
be  it  remembered,  who  warned  Cajsar  of  the  ides  of  March.  On 
the  wall  hang  some  remarkable  reliefs  in  bronze,  found  at 
])oniarzo,  representing  sacrifices,  and  the  combat  of  the  gods 
with  the  giants,  in  a  very  rude  and  primitive  style  of  art.^ 

'  For   illustrations    of    these     beautiful  on    the  victors    in    his   games.     lUit   tlii.s 

wreaths  see  Mus.  Gregor.   I.  tav,  86-91.  must  mean  that  Crassus  was  tlie  firet  of  the 

Theseare  the  "  Coronie  Etruscte"  which  the  Romans,  who  was  guilty  of  such  extrava- 

Komans   boiTowed  from  their  neighbours,  gance  ;  for  Pliny  elsewhere  (33,  4)  speaks 

to  decorate  lieroes  in  their  triumphs.    Plin.  of  these  Etruscan  chaplets  of  gold  having 

21,   4  ;  Aj^pian.   Reb.   Punic.   66  ;   Tertul.  been  used  in  triumphs  at  an  eiirlier  iieriod. 

de  Cor.  Mil,   13.     Pliny  .says  that  Crassus  «  Ann.  Inst.  1876,  p.  244.— Helbig. 

was  the  first  who  imitated  leaves  in  gold  '   Mus.  Gregor.  I.  tav.  SK,  4-6. 
and   silver,    and    bestowed    such    crowns 


CHAP.  Lxiii.]  MUSE(3    GIJEUURIANU— WArJ,-l'AlXTIXGS.  487 

The  large  chamber  beyond  is  liuiig  with  i^aintiiigs,  copies  on 
canvass  of  tlie  frescoes  on  tlie  walls  of  the  tombs  of  Tarquinii  and 
Vulci,  and  duplicates  of  tlie  copies  in  the  British  Museum.  Fov 
descriptions  1  nmst  refer  the  reader  to  previous  chapters  ;  I  can 
only  here  point  out,  for  his  guidance,  the  order  in  Avhich  the 
paintings  are  arranged.  Beginning  froni  his  right  hiind,  on 
entering,  thev  take  the  following  order. 

Camera  del  Morto,  Tarquinii.^ 

Grotta  delle  Biglie,  or  (Irotta  Stackelberg,  Tarquinii.'' 

Grotta  Querciola,  Tar(piinii.^ 

Grotta  delle  Iscri/ioni,  Tarquinii.- 

Grotta  del  Triclinio,  or  Grotta  Marzi,  Tarquinii." 

Grotta  del  Barone,  oi'  Grotta  del  Ministro,  Tarquinii.' 

The  Campanari  painted  tomb  at  A'ulci.' 

All  the  paintings  from  Tarquinii  are  still  to  be  seen  on  that 
site,  though  not  in  so  perfect  a,  state  as  they  are  here  repre- 
sented.    But  the  tomb  of  Vulci  is  utterly  destroyed.'' 

Arranged  round  the  room  are  sundry  relics  in  stone  or  pottery 
— weightier  matters  of  Etruscan  art.  A  flat  cii-cular  cippus,  like 
a  millstone,  with  a  sepulchral  inscription  round  its  edge."  An 
upright  sarcophagus,  like  a  circular  Ionic  temple,  and  with  an 
inscription  on  the  architrave,  which  recalls  the  fiiir  Tanaquil — 
''Eca  Suthi  Thanchvilus  jMasnial.'"*  The  base  to  a  statue 
bearing  a  Latin  inscription,  of  the  fourth  century  after  Christ, 
found  at  Vulci,  and  interesting  as  determining  the  name  of  the 
city,  Avliose  cemeter}^  has  yielded  such  marvellous  treasures.^ 
Two  .stela  of  basalt,  with  Etruscan  inscriptions.  Many  large  tall 
pithoi,  of  red  or  brown  ware,  fluted,  three  or  four  feet  high,  with 
reliefs  in  a  very  archaic  style,  on  stands  of  similar  character — from 

**  Vol.  I.  p.  325.  eacli  sheet  of  canvass  represents  a  separate 

'••  Vol.  I.  p.  i{73.  wall  of  a  tomb. 

'  Vol.  I.  p.  oOt).  '   It  is  like  that  in  Canipanari'.s  garden 

-  Vol.  I.  p.  364.  at   Toscanella,    shown   in    tlie   woodcut    at 

3  Vol.  I.  p.  318.  page  4«1  of  Vol.  I.     Mas.  Gregor.  I.  tav. 

■•  Vol.  I.  p.  368.  ]0.^>,  2. 

'  Vol.  I.  p.  46.5.  "^  This  inserijition,  however,   is  tlie  epi- 

•"'  All  these  paintings  are  of  the  size  of  the       taph    of   a    male.     I^his.    (Jregor.    I.    tav. 

original  frescoes,  and  not  incorrect  in  out-        Kto,  3. 

line,   but  generally  too  hard  in  colouring.  '••  Mus.  (jrregor.  I.  tav.  IOC,  2. 

The  inscriptions  are  often  inaccurate,  and 

sometimes  omitted ;  and,  on  the  other  hand, 

certain   parts  which  are  now  dcticieut  in 

the  originils,  are  here  supplied,  either fioni 

drawings   made  when  the  paintings   were  j.^  poi'VLVs 

less  decayed,    or  from  the  imagination  of  vvi.ci;ntivs 

the  copier.     It  must  be  remembered  that  D.  >•  .  m.  q.  ki 


D.N.  FLAVro  .  V.VLK 
KIO  .  SKVERO  .   Ni) 

nILISSIMO  . 

CAESAllI    ORI> 


488  HOME.  [chap,  uxiii. 

the  tombs  of  Ciere  and  Veii,^  Braziers  of  the  same  description, 
Avith  rows  of  lij^ures  round  the  rim.  The  well-known  vase  of 
Triptolemus,  presented  to  the  Pope  by  Prince  Poniatowsld.  A 
cinerary  pot  whose  lid  has  the  figure  of  a  horse  for  a  handle. 
On  tlie  shelves  around  the  room  are  vases  of  different  styles, 
some  painted,  but  of  inferior  merit ;  others  of  hi(cc]iero  of  very 
early  date  and  primitive  character — the  most  ancient  potter}'  in 
tliis  Museum,  supposed  by  some  to  be  Umbrian. 

Chamkf.r  of  tiik  Tomh. 

On  leaving  the  Bronze  Pioom,  you  pass  through  a  small 
chamber,  where  stands  a  very  tall  and  singular  vase  of  bronze, 
composed  of  two  bell-shaped  pots,  united  by  two  spheres,  and 
covered  with  reliefs,  in  no  less  than  eleven  bands,  of  lions, 
si^hinxes,  griffons,  bulls,  and  horses,  chiefly  winged,  in  a  very 
early  and  severe  style  of  art.  It  was  fouiul  in  the  Pegulini- 
Galassi  tomb,  at  Cervetri;  and  doubtless  served  as  a  iJiym'iatcrwn 
or  fumigator.-  The  glass  case  in  the  Avindow  contains  many 
carvings  and  implements  in  ivory,  all  of  Etruscan  art. 

Here  are  also  two  lions  in  nciifro  from  A'ulci,  one  on  each  side 
of  a  doorway.  Enter,  and  you  find  yourself  in  a  small  dark 
chamber  fitted  up  in  imitation  of  an  Etruscan  tomb.  It  repre- 
sents one  of  the  most  ordinary  class  of  sepulchres,  having  three 
couches  of  rock  standing  out  from  the  wall,  on  which  the  bodies 
of  the  deceased  are  supposed  to  have  lain,  surrounded  by  articles 
of  pottery  and  bronze,  which  are  also  suspended  from  the  walls. 
This  meagre  copy  of  an  Etruscan  sepulchre  may  serve  to  excite, 
but  ought  not  to  satisf}'  the  traveller's  curiosity. 

ETRUSCAN    MUSEUM,    CAPITOL. 

In  1866  Signor  Augusto  Castellani,  the  celebrated  jeweller  and 
anti(iuary,  "  aurifex  pnestantissimus,  et  rci  antiquarife  collector 
eximius,"  as  he  is  designated  in  a  commemorative  tablet,  pre- 
sented the  ^Municipality  of  Rome  with  a  collection  of  pottery 
and  bronzes,  which  he  had  gathered  in  the  course  of  years  from 
various  ancient  sites  in  Ital}',  though  chiefly  from  Etruria,  and 
this  collection  is  now  exhibited  in  the  Palazzo  dei  Conservatori, 
on  the  Capitol.  Open  during  the  week  from  ten  to  tlu-ee ;  on 
Sundays  closes  at  one. 

'  Jtus.  Gregor.  II.  tav.  100.  Vol.  I.  jtage  27.'5,  though  without  tlie  i"iops. 

^  See  Vol.  I.  page  '26S.     In  fonn  it  i.s       Mus.  Gregor.  I.  tav.  11. 
verj'  like  the  terra-cotta  pot  iepre.sented  at 


CHAP.  Lxiii.]    ETRUSCAX    MUSEU>[    OF    THE    CAIMTOL.  489 

In  the  centre  of  the  first  room  is  a  group  of  four  vases  of  plain 
cla}',  twent3'-seven  to  twenty-nine  Indies  in  height,  each  com- 
posed of  two  bell-shaped  pots  united  by  two  spheres,  all  in  one 
2Jiece.  In  two  of  these  vasus,  the  lower  bell,  which  serves  :is 
a  pedestal,  has  three  or  four  vertical  slits  or  openings  in  it, 
showing  that  it  was  intended  to  cover  a  lire.  There  can  be  no 
doubt  that  these  tiill  vases  were  tkyiiilateria — incense-burners, 
employed  to  sweeten  the  atmosphere  of  the  tombs  in  which  they 
were  discovered,  on  the  periodical  visits  of  the  relatives  of  the 
<leceased.  A  vase  of  similar  character  was  found  in  the  Rcgiilini- 
<Talassi  tomb,  and  another  in  the  Grotta  Campana  at  Cervetri,'' 
find  these  four  are  from  the  same  site.  One  of  them  has  two 
bands  of  winged  horses,  rudely  scratched  on  the  lower  bell ; 
iinother,  two  bands  of  cranes  or  ostriches,  painted  red  on  a 
cream}'-  ground ;  all  very  archaic,  and  indicative  of  most  pri- 
mitive art.  Each  of  these  singular  vases  stands  on  a  large 
jntlios  of  red  clay,  fluted,  and  witli  bands  of  small  figures,  men, 
animals,  and  chinueras,  in  relief,  as  on  the  cinerary  jars  found 
at  Veii.'  On  a  cokunn  in  the  midst  of  this  group  rests  a  tall 
full-bellied  amphoni,  of  very  archaic  character,  having  two  bands 
of  lions,  panthers,  deer,  goats,  &c.,  alternating  with  bands  of 
fluillocJie  ornament,  the  rest  of  the  vase  being  decorated  with 
large  scales  scratched  on  its  surface. 

Around  the  room,  alternating  with  glass  cabinets,  are  ten 
more  tall  ribbed  pithui,  like  the  four  in  the  centre — the  cinerary 
urns  of  Veii  and  Ciere — all  with  stamped  decorations  girdling 
them  in  a  band. 

The  glass  cabinets  contain  articles  of  terra-cotta  or  bronze 
from  the  sepulchres  of  Etruria,  and  mosth^  of  high  antiquity.. 

The  firs^  to  the  right  contains  a  number  of  bron/e  idols,  with 
weapons  and  instruments  of  various  descriptions,  in  bronze  and 
iron,  and  among  them  the  iron  sole  of  a  shoe,  jointed,  and  with 
large  prominent  nails.  The  second  shows  a  few  objects  in 
hucchero,  and  fragments  of  still  earlier  sim-dried  pottery ;  to- 
gether with  some  celts  or  arrow-heads  of  flint,  and  one  enormous 
celt  of  stone.  In  the  next,  among  other  specimens  of  aixieut 
pottery,  is  a  pretty  female  figure  of  terra-cotta,  about  a  foot  in 
lieight,  of  Greek  character,  though  hardly  of  Greek  execution; 
and  a  small  olpc,  representing  Achilles  and  Ajax  playing  at  dice  ; 
a  housirophciJon  inscription  on  the  low  table  between  tlie  lieroes 

■■*  See  Vol.    I.  p.  2G8,    11:<.     The  wond-  ■•  See  the  wood-cut  in  Vol.  I.  p.  39. 

cut  on  tlie  latter  iiage  shoulil  be  iuverted. 


490  LOME.  [chap.  LXirr. 

records  that  the  vase  was  dedicated  to  the  "  handsome  Xeo- 
Icleides."  The  last  case  on  this  side  shows  some  early  pottery 
of  the  style  commonly  called  Phcenician ;  cups  with  flowers  and 
animals  scratched  on  them  ;  one  inscrihed  with  "  Yen "  in 
Etruscan  letters ;  and  a  tetrapod  candlestick  of  hronze,  with  a 
piece  of  charred  wood  still  remaining  in  the  socket,  into  which 
it  had  been  inserted  of  old  to  serve  as  a  torch. 

The  first  two  cases  on  the  left  contain  some  very  early  ware, 
brown,  ]>lack  ov  red,  of  quaint  rude  forms,  made  by  the  hand, 
and  scratched  with  simple  decorations ;  some  of  the  later  or 
more  advanced  pots  showing  ornamentation  of  a  purel}'  Assyrian 
character.  In  the  third  case  are  sundry  articles  in  ivory,  glass, 
and  amber,  Avhich  material  was  highly  prized  by  the  Etruscans, 
together  with  mam'  figures  and  heads  in  terra-cotta.  The  fom'th 
contains,  besides  a  silver  bowl  with  scratched  decorations,  and 
cups  of  copper  and  bronze,  a  beautiful  sitiila  of  silver,  about 
eight  inches  high,  ornamented  with  four  bands  of  animals  and 
flowers,  of  archaic  art,  yet  engraved  with  great  care  and  delicac}'. 
This  beautiful  relic  is  from  Palestrina. 

On  the  shelves  which  surround  the  room  in  a  triple  tier,  are 
numerous  articles  of  pottery,  arranged,  it  would  seem,  at  hap- 
hazard, for  vases  of  all  periods,  from  the  decadence  ujiwards,  are 
mixed  confusedly.  Few  of  these  articles  are  beautiful,  but  some 
are  ver}'  quaint  and  curious.  On  the  lower  shelf  is  a  small 
sitting  draped  figure  of  terra-cotta,  hardly  twenty  inches  high. 
The  sex  is  not  distinctly  marked,  yet  the  closely-croiiped  hair 
seems  to  indicate  a  male.  His  tunic  is  yellow,  his  mantle  red, 
and  both  are  scratched  all  over  with  a  hatched  ornament.  His 
l)hysiognom3-  resembles  that  of  the  figures  on  the  terra-cotta 
sarcojihagus  from  C'ervetri,  now  in  the  British  jNIuseum,'^  and 
his  origin  is  also  the  same.  On  each  side  of  this  figure  stands 
a  large  hand-made  pot,  of  black  ware,  with  incised  decorations. 
Some  of  these  early  vases  are  entirely  red,  witli  ornaments  of  the 
same  colour.  One  vase  of  this  description  represents  a  horse- 
race, the  animals  being  marked  by  paint  of  a  somewhat  deeper 
hue  tlian  the  natural  colour  of  the  clay.  The  outlines  are 
scratclied  in,  but  the  design,  though  archaic,  is  hardly  so  primi- 
tive as  in  other  examples. 

The  vase  in  this  collection  which  displays  the  rudest  and  most 
archaic  art,  is  an  oxjihaphon  found  at  Cervetri,  but  pronounced  t<» 
be  an  importation  from  Corinth.     It  represents  a  sea-fight.     Two 

*  See  the  woodcut  in  Vol.  I.  \i.  227. 


CHAi'.  Lxiii.]  VEKY    rraMlTIVK    I'OTTKrvY.  491 

extremely  quuint  and  curiously  formed  vessels,  with  warriors 
standing  on  their  decks,  are  about  to  engage  in  combat.  Both 
have  high  recurved  sterns,  and  are  steered  with  a  broad  oar  or 
paddle  ;  one  has  a  prow  like  a  fish's  tail  thrown  into  the  air  ;  the 
other's  prow  resembles  a  fish's  head  with  an  eye,  and  a  long 
snout  or  ram.  In  this  boat  five  rowers  are  seated ;  on  a 
hiu-ricane-deck  above  them,  stand  three  warriors  fully  armed. 
The  other  boat  has  a  similar  deck  with  armed  men,  but  shows  no 
rowers  beneath.  It  has,  however,  a  mast  on  which  an  armed 
figure  is  represented  in  the  act  of  hurling  a  spear,  which  is  pro- 
bably intended  for  Athene  Promachos,  for  it  does  not  appear  to 
represent  a  living  being,  and  is  apparently  merely  the  J)r(;7^S('y;(o?^ 
or  device  of  the  ship.  The  three  warriors  on  the  deck  are  armed 
like  their  opponents,  with  crested  helmets,  spears,  and  circular 
shields,  but  instead  of  geometrical  figures  as  devices,  one  has  an 
ox-skull,  and  {mother  a  crab  marked  on  his  buckler.  The  fi)re- 
most  warrior  in  each  vessel  stands  in  the  prow  brandishing  his 
javelin  at  his  opponent.  The  field  of  the  vase  is  seme  Avith 
quaint  conventional  flowers  and  geometrical  figures. 

The  reverse  of  the  vase  presents  a  difierent  scene.  Five  men, 
quite  nude,  and  with  short  swords  depending  from  their  shoulders, 
are  holding  a  long  beam,  as  though  it  were  a  battering-ram,  with 
which  they  are  overthrowing  another  naked  man,  who  having  sunk 
to  the  earth  in  a  sitting  posture,  receives  the  thrust  full  in  his  face. 
Behind  him  an  upright  pole  supports  a  large  basket  or  cage.  This 
scene  in  all  probability  represents  Ulysses  and  his  companions 
blmding  the  Cyclops  Polyphennis  ;  though  what  the  cage  has  to  do 
with  that  legend  is  not  apparent.  An  inscription  in  primitive  Greek 
characters  records  the  name  of  the  potter — '•  Aristonothos." 

This  vase  is  hand-made,  and  the  figures  are  painted  in  red,  on 
the  pale-yellow  clay,  without  any  scratching  of  outlines  or  details. 
Nothing  can  be  more  rude  and  uncouth  than  the  forms  and  faces 
here  depicted;  the  noses  jiroininent  as  oAvl-beaks,  the  features 
malformed,  the  thighs  of  exaggerated  fulness,  the  extremities 
attenuated  to  a  ridiculous  extent,  as  though  the  artist  were 
incapable  of  delineating  the  hands  and  feet ;  the  whole  being  like 
the  production  of  a  schoolboy,  yet  presenting  one  of  the  most 
interesting  examples  extant  of  the  early  infancy  of  Doric  art. 
The  potter  at  least  appeal's  to  have  been  satisfied  with  his  work, 
or  he  would  hardly  have  attached  his  name  to  it.*" 

*  For  a  description  and   illustrations  of       jip.  l.'i?   17"2;  Jlon.  Inst.  IX.  t-.w  4. 
this   curious  vase,    see  Ann.  Inst.   1809, 


492  EOME.  [CHAP,  lxiii. 

Another  vase,  an  amphorn,  of  Corinthian  origin,  also  found  at 
CVrvetri,  has  for  its  subject  a  liorse's  lieacl  and  neck,  painted 
bhick  on  a  pale  yellow  ground,  while  the  eye,  nostril,  mouth,  and 
name,  are  coloured  a  bright  red."  On  another  archaic  amphora 
a  brace  of  cocks  stand  vis-o-ris,  with  a  lotus-flower  between  them. 

There  is  a  fair  show  of  vases  with  black  figures,  in  the  Archaic 
Greek  style.  One  of  the  best,  as  regards  execution  and  preserva- 
tion, is  an  amphora,  showing  Hercules  overcoming  the  Xemean  lion 
in  the  presence  of  Pallas.  Another  presents  the  singular  subject 
of  three  men  running,  each  with  a  huge  fish-tail  reaching  to  the 
ground.  There  are  also  two  innochoai,  with  white  grounds,  so 
rarely  found  in  Etruria.  The  figures  are  black  with  a  brilliant 
lustre.  One  of  these  vases  shows  a  youth  on  horseback,  spear 
in  hand,  hard  by  an  ithyphallic  Hermes  ;  the  other  displays  a 
ctunbat.     Both  bear  inscriptions. 

Of  the  Third  or  Perfect  style  of  Greek  pottery  there  are  few 
specimens  ;  and  none  of  first-rate  excellence. 


The  room  adjoining,  besides  the  bust  of  Brutus,  the  Camillus, 
or  youtliful  acolyte,  the  Horse,  the  Bull,  the  colossal  gilt  Hercules, 
the  Diana  of  Ephesus,  the  Diana  Triformis,  and  other  works  of 
Uoman  art  in  bronze,  besides  the  mngnificent  vase  of  Mithridates, 
and  the  inimitable  boy  extracting  a  thorn  from  his  foot,  one  of 
the  most  exquisite  productions  of  the  Greek  chisel  in  metal, 
contains  also  the  best-known  and  most  characteristic  specimen  of 
Etruscan  toreutics — the  "Wolf  of  the  Capitol" — the  "thunder- 
stricken  nm-se  of  Piome." 

I  shall  not  discuss  the  variinis  opinions  that  have  been  broached 
respectmg  this  celebrated  statue,  or  attempt  to  decide  the  much 
disputed  point,  whether  it  be  identical  with  the  bronze  wolf 
inentioned  by  Eivy  and  Dionysius,  or  with  that  described  by 
Cicero  and  sung  by  "S'irgil."'  I  shall  merely  observe,  what  none 
of  these  old  writers  inform  us,  that  it  is  manifestly  an  Etruscan 
work  of  ai-t,  for  it  bears,  not  only  in  its  general  character  and 
>>tyle,  but  also  in  its  every  feature  and   detail,  the  stamp  of  the 

'   Ann.  Inst.  1S47,   i>ii.  •2:U-i.'i;2  ;  ^M-m.  .set  up  at  the  Ficus  liuminali.s  in  the  year 

In.st.  IV.  tav.  4(1,  1.  of  Home  4r»S  (n.c.  2!t6).     Both  the   hind 

*  Liv.    X.    23  ;    Dion.    Hal.    I.    c    79  ;  legs  of  this  bronze  .sUitne  are  shattered  in 

Cicero,  in  Catil.  III.  8  ;  de  Divin.  II.  20  ;  a  way  that  precludes  the  idea  of  external 

I'oenia  de  Consulato    suo,    II.    42  ;    Virg.  injury,  and    leaves    little   doubt  that  the 

Jvn.  Vllf.  C31.     DionysiiLs  describes  it  a.s  agency  was  from  within,  i.e.  lightning, 
"of  ancient  workman.ship,"  when  it  was 


CHAP.  Lxin.]  THE    WOIJ-'    OF    THE    CAPITOL.  493 

archaic  Elruscaii  chisel.  'To  spccii'y  one  inimite  particular, — the 
rows  of  tiny  curls  alon^j;  the  spine  from  the  mane  to  tlie  root  oi' 
the  tail,  and  again,  the  tranverse  rows  running"  hehind  the 
shoulders,  and  almost  meeting  heneath  tlie  brisket,  like  a  girth, 
are  i)eculiar  features,  often  observable  in  the  lions  carved  on  the 
lids  of  the  most  archaic  Etruscan  sarcophagi,  as  guardians  of  the 
corpse.''  The  face  of  the  W(df  is  also  surrounded  by  a  similar 
fringe  of  tiny  curls. 

Among  the  numerous  bronzes  in  this  museum,  is  a  large  hina, 
or  rather  the  decorations  of  one.  with  reliefs  in  re2)onssr  work, 
nailed  to  a  wooden  frame,  and  of  great  interest ;  but  the  art  is 
lioman,  and  the  reliefs  Avere  discovered  on  the  Esquiline. 
Therefore,  "  non  ragioniamo  di  loi'o."  I'or  the  same  reason  we 
must  pass  by  the  curious  lectica,  or  sedan-chair,  also  found  on  the 
Esquiline,  and  the  still  more  wonderful  huelliuin,  or  seat  of 
bronze  and  tortoise-shell,  iidaid  with  silver,  found  at  Amiternum, 
among  the  Sabine  Apennines,  and  presented  by  Signor  Augusto 
Castellani  to  the  Municipality  of  Itome.^ 


The  third  room  from  the  entrance  contains  the  fruit  of  recent 
excavations  on  the  Escpiiline,  the  earlier  articles  of  which  are 
closely  allied  in  character  to  the  furniture  of  Etruscan  tombs ; 
indeed,  the}"  may  well  be  really  Lltruscan,  belonging  to  the  period 
when  Home  Avas  an  Etruscan  city,  when  her  rulers  were  from 
that  land,  and  her  arts,  and  most  of  her  institutions  and  customs 
were  of  Transtiberine  origin.  The  very  rudest  objects  ma}^  even 
belong  to  a  still  more  remote  epoch,  and  a  more  primitive  race — 
to  the  people,  Avhether  of  Pelasgic,  Trojan,  Oscan,  or  Latin  origin, 
who  inhabited  the  site  ages  before  the  roj'al  twins  "tugged  at  the 
slie-wolf's  breast." 

The  articles  in  this  room  are  not  arranged  in  the  order  of  their 
antiquity,  but  according  to  their  use  and  purpose,  whether 
religious,  domestic,  architectural,  or  sepulchral.  I  shall  treat  of 
those  only  which  bear  on  the  subject  of  Etruria. 

As  an  instance  of  the  care  taken  by  the  ancients  to  preserve 
the  remains  of  their  departed  friends,  I  would  point  out  a  Imge 
earthenware  7>/7//o.s,  or  dolliim,  inclosing  another  pot  of  lead,  with 

'  Witness  the  in;irl)lc  monuments  in  tlio  nonier,  for  the  seat  is  not  large  enougli  for 

Tornha  de'   Sarcofagi  at   Cervetri  (Vol.   1.  two  persons,  being  only  17  Indies  in  width, 

J).    246),    and    tJiose    in    the    Museum    at  and    the    sjimc    in    dejith.     The    original 

Corncto  (Vol.  I.  j).  403).  tnrtnise-shell  was  decayed  ;  that  now  cover- 

'  Tiie    term   bisellium   ajipeurs   a   mis-  ing  the  arms  of  the  seat  is  a  restoration. 


494  EOME.  [CHAP.  lxui. 

a  cover  of  tlie  sume,  Avitliiu  wh'u-h  is  a  third  vessel,  a  lidded  pot 
of  alabaster,  in  which  tlie  ashes  Avere  deposited.  The  outer  pot 
is  stamped  on  the  rim  with  a  Latin  inscription. 

Hard  by,  nnder  a  glass-cover,  are  some  folding  tablets  of  ivory, 
hinged,  about  nine  inches  in  height,  the  only  specimens,  so  far  as 
I  am  aware,  of  the  piufdUircs  of  the  ancients,  which  have  come 
•down  to  us,  although  these  are  so  frequently  represented  on  the 
cinerar}'  urns  of  Chiusi  and  Yolterra,  in  the  hands  of  Etruscan 
ladies.-    By  their  side  are  three  atyli  of  ivory  discovered  with  them. 
But  the  most  imposing  object  in  this  room  is  a  tall  column  of 
■earthenware,  in  four  drums,  more  than  seven  feet  in  height,  and 
thirty  inches  in  diameter,  with  holes  or  projections  for  the  hands 
•and  feet,  which  prove  it  to  have  formed  the  entrance  to  a  tomb, 
sunk  beneath  the  surface,  like  the  well-tombs  of  Etruria.     This, 
however,  is  Pioman,  for  the  lid  which  covers  the  mouth  of  the  well, 
l)ears  an  inscription  in  early  Latin  letters,  "  Et;o.  C.  Antoxios." 
Among  the  objects  Avhich  surround   the   room,  notice  a  plain 
urn    in    stone,  shaped   like    a  temple,  from    the    Esquiline,  but 
similar  to  those  found  in  Etruscan   tombs.     Very  Etruscan  in 
character  is  a  relief  in  nenfro,  of  rude  art,  representing  two  figures 
sitting  back  to  back,  with  others  standing  before  them.     Also  the 
terra -cotta  bust  of  a  warrior,  with  coloured  drapery,  and  with  a 
wound  in  his  breast.     Again,  the  relief  of  two  hif/(C,  drawn  by 
winged  horses,  witii  the  Avail  of  a  city  or  temple  in  the  background, 
might  have  been  discovered  at  Chiusi  instead  of  at  Eome;  it  is  so 
purely  Etruscan. 

On  the  shelves  are  fragments  of  reliefs,  and  of  friezes  of  terra- 
cotta, with  (int(fix(e,  retaining  traces  of  colour,  but  all  Roman, 
and  of  the  Augustan  period.  Among  them  are  many  small  urns, 
with  the  subject  of  Europa  on  the  bull;  also  numerous  heads 
of  terra-cotta,  like  the  portrait-heads  found  in  Etruscan  tombs, 
■together  Avith  many  ex-votos  in  the  same  material. 

-  Vt  supra,  T[\.  IQZ.  The  rarity  of  these  often  seen,  sometimes  open,  sometimes 
articles  may  be  exphiined  by  their  having  closed,  in  the  hands  of  -women  on  Etruscan 
been  formed  of  ivory,  bone,  and  iirobably  cinerarj'  urns.  In  one  such  instance,  in 
also  of  Avood,  coated  with  wax,  and  the  the  Museum  of  Volterra  (see  p.  163),  the 
thinness  of  such  materials  will  account  for  tablets  bear  an  Etruscan  inscription,  the 
their  destniction  in  the  course  of  twenty  epitaph  of  the  lady  whose  effigy  holds  them, 
and  odd  centuries.  The  lacayuc  of  the  Just  as  in  a  cinerary  urn  discovered  a  few 
•coarse  black  ware  mentioned  at  p.  78,  are  years  since  at  Chiusi,  the  male  figure  re- 
supposed  to  liave  been  the  tablets  of  an  dining  on  its  lid  was  represented  in  the 
earlier  period,  but  they  have  never  been  act  of  reading  an  unrolled  papyrus,  in- 
found  rei>resented  in  other  works  of  art :  scribed  with  his  own  epitaph.  Bull.  In.st. 
iunlike   the   hinged   tablets  which   arc   so  1873,  p.  158. 


CHAP.  Lxiii.]  ETRUSCAN    EOBA    FEOM    ROMAN    TOMBS.  9.5 

The  pottery  is  of  red,  brown,  black,  or  pale  yellow  ware;  the 
hacchcro  bemg  identical  in  character  with  that  found  in  Etruria, 
and  such  as  Xuma  may  have  used  at  the  banquet  or  the  sacrifice;^ 
althougli  the  peculiar  relieved  ware  of  Chiusi  does  not  here  find 
its  counterpart.  Of  Greek  painted  vases,  there  are  not  M-anting 
fragments  of  different  styles  and  periods,  sufficing  to  show  that 
the  Romans  of  Republican  times,  though  they  had  not  the  same 
passionate  admiration  for  Hellenic  ceramic  art  that  was  felt  by 
the  inhabitants  of  Cjere,  Tarquinii,  and  Vulci,  did  to  some  extent 
avail  themselves  of  it  to  adorn  their  sepulchres. 

A  long  glass-case  in  the  centre  of  the  room  contains  some  nice 
fragments  of  red  Aretine  ware,  with  figures  in  relief;  articles  in 
glass,  plain  and  coloui'ed,  beads  of  smalt,  glass,  and  amber,  with 
various  objects  in  bronze,  all  found  in  the  Esquiline,  though  in 
many  cases  quite  Etruscan  in  character.  Well  Avorthy  of  notice 
is  a  female-head  of  life-size,  diig  up  in  the  garden  of  the  Ara  Coeli 
convent.  It  is  truly  archaic  ;  the  eyes,  Avhich  have  now  almost 
lost  the  colour  which  once  marked  them,  are  placed  obliquely  like 
those  of  a  Chinese;  her  mouth  has  the  conventional  smirk  so 
common  in  archaic  Greek  and  Etruscan  sculpture,  the  earliest 
metopes  from  Selinus,  for  example ;  her  hau',  which  falls  low  over 
her  forehead,  is  painted  black,  and  hangs  down  in  flat  masses,  not 
curls,  and  her  head  is  capped  with  the  tutulus.  By  her  side  is 
the  mask  of  a  satyr,  with  prominent  eyes,  snub  nose,  black  beard, 
and  hair  in  small  black  curls  round  his  brow,  and  with  upright 
brute's  ears,  but  full  of  life  and  character.  Contrary  to  the 
custom  of  Etruria,  his  flesh  is  painted  white.  A  third  head, 
without  any  remains  of  colour,  is  that  of  the  young  Bacchus, 
crowned  Avith  iv}-. 

MUSEO    KIRCHEEIANO. 

This  museum  is  contained  in  the  enormous  building  of  the 
Collegio  Romano,  and  was  long  regarded  as  the  finest  collection 
of  early  Italian  antiquities ;  and  in  truth  in  certain  respects  it  is 
still  unrivalled ;  but  as  a  museum  of  Etruscan  works  of  art,  it 
is  now  far  surpassed  b}'  the  ^luseo  Gregoriano,  and  by  some 
provincial  collections  in  Italy,  to  say  nothing  of  the  national 
ones  of  London,  Paris,  Berlin,  and  Munich. 

Relics  of  Roman  and  Etruscan  art  are  here  so  mingled  tliat 
it  requires  the  eye  of  an  expert  to  distinguisli  them.  We  will 
fii'st  notice  the  Avorks  in  stone  and  terra-cotta. 

3  Juven.  Sat.  VI.  343. 


496  EOME.  [CHAP,  lxiii 

Here  are  several  steLe  of  stone,  of  diflerent  forms,  -with 
Etruscan  inscriptions  round  the  top  ;  one  in  tlie  shape  of  a 
l)ine-cone  bears  the  epigraph  "  llamthu  Alsinei."  Two  women 
carved  in  ncnfro,  sitting,  one  witli  a  baby  swaddled  in  lier  lap  ; 
the  other  with  four,  an  emharras  dc  ricJwssi'S,  rather  inconvenient. 
On  the  wall  over  them  are  (nitefixcc  of  terra-cotta — heads  of 
women,  satyrs,  and  gorgons,  marked  with  colour;  one  of  the 
latter  is  repres>ented  as  running  with  a  monstrous  snake  in  each 
hand;  lier  flesh  is  white,  tliougli  the  ground  on  which  she  is 
2)ainted  is  also  white.  INIany  portrait-heads  of  both  sexes  in 
terra-cotta,  generally  of  life  size  ;  not  a  few  of  the  women  have 
veils,  and  some  of  them  are  extremely  pretty;  just  such  charming 
faces  as  are  still  seen  in  Tuscany,  though  not  so  frequently  at 
Rome.  There  are  little  terra-cotta  figures  also,  some  Etruscan, 
more  Greek,  but  generally  of  inferior  execution,  not  displaying 
the  sharpness  of  contour  and  tlie  careful  attention  to  details 
which  characterise  the  best  period  of  Hellenic  art.  Of  terra- 
cotta urns  there  are  few,  and  those  of  an  ordinary  description  ; 
some  retaining  traces  of  colour.  There  are  a  few  prett}'  terra- 
cottas of  the  Augustan  period,  among  which  one  representing 
Paris  and  Helen,  or  Pelops  and  Hip2)odameia,  in  a  quadriga,  is 
the  most  attractive. 

One  case  is  full  of  the  black  ware  of  Cliiusi  and  its  neighbour- 
hood ;  two  others  contain  Greek  and  Etruscan  vases,  but  none 
of  remarkable  beauty.  The  most  interesting  are  an  oljn:  in  the 
so-called  Phoenician  style,  and  a  large  j^^'i"^'',  without  handles, 
with  archaic  animals  surrounding  it  in  three  concentric  bands, 
and  painted  a  pale  red  on  a  yellow  ground. 

In  one  of  the  central  cases  are  various  articles  of  bone  and 
ivory,  glass  and  amber.  In  another  is  a  collection  of  Etruscan 
and  Italian  money  from  the  earliest  form,  the  ces  rude,  down  to 
the  coins  of  the  Empire,  the  greater  part  discovered  in  1852  at 
the  ]>agni  di  Vicarello — the  ancient  Aqua;  Apollinares — on  the 
shores  of  Lago  Bracciano.  Hei-e  are  also  several  vases  of  silver, 
f(3und  at  the  same  time  and  place,  on  three  of  which  are  inscribed 
an  Itinerary  from  Cirades  to  Piome,  with  the  several  stations  and 
the  distances  between  them.^  They  were  jirobably  dei^osited  here 
in  gi-atitude  to  Apollo  for  benefits  received,  by  some  Spaniard 
Avho  had  made  the  journey  from  Cadiz  to  Rome  ex]H*essly  to 
take  those  waters. 

Bronzes   of  Etruscan   and   lloman   art   are   here  mixed  indis- 

*  See  Vol.  I.  1..  CO. 


CHAP.  I.XI1I.]  THE    KIRCIIERIAX   MUSEUM.  497 

<Timiiiiitcly.  Amojig  the  fanner  is  the  curious  fij^ure  of  a  warrior 
•Iburtcen  inches  high ;  he  ^vears  a  cuirass,  with  a  tunic  under  it, 
breeclies  wliich  are  torn  at  both  knees ;  in  his  casque  are  two  pro- 
jecting horns  representing  feathers  ;  and  on  liis  back  he  carries 
a  h)ng  pok',  terminating  in  a  pair  of  wheels,  apparent!}'  an  agri- 
cultural instrument,  on  whicli  a  basket  is  suspended.  Hercules 
with  his  club,  in  relief,  is  in  the  archaic  Etruscan  style.  A  hen 
in  this  metal  has  an  Etruscan  inscription  of  three  lines  engraved 
on  her  Aving.  Among  these  bronzes  observe  a  rural  group — a  pair 
of  peasants,  man  and  woman,  following  a  plough  drawn  by  a  yoke 
of  oxen.  It  was  found  at  Arez/o,  and  is  supposed  to  represent 
the  birtli  of  Tai^es. 

The  Palestiuxa  Casket. 

In  the  transverse  galler}',  Avith  the  bronzes,  stands  the  cele- 
brated Cista  Ficoroniana,  so  named  from  its  first  possessor,  avIio 
presented  it  to  this  museum — one  of  the  most  exquisite  j^roduc- 
tions  of  ancient  art,  a  work  of  its  class  unrivalled  in  beaut}^  the 
ulory  of  this  museum,  and  of  Home.  It  was  brought  to  light  in 
1 738,  being  discovered  in  the  necropolis  of  Pra^neste,  which  has 
since  yielded  so  many  beautiful  works  in  metal,  some  of  which, 
-of  recent  acquisition,  I  shall  presently'  have  occasion  to  describe. 

This  wonderful  cista  is  a  drum-shaped  casket  of  bronze,  four- 
teen inches  in  diameter,  and  about  sixteen  high  in  itself,  but  b}' 
tlie  addition  of  the  feet,  and  of  the  figures  which  form  the  handle 
to  its  lid,  the  total  height  is  increased  to  twenty-nine  inches. 
The  designs  for  which  it  is  renowned  are  engraved  on  the 
•surface,  but  with  so  delicate  a  hand  as  in  parts  to  be  scarcely 
<listinguishable  through  the  patina  which  coats  it,  unless  sub- 
jected to  a  strong  light.  The  subject  is  the  victory  of  Pollux 
over  Amycus,  king  of  Bithynia.  The  legend  states  that  the 
Argonauts  on  their  voyage  to  Colchis  landed  on  those  shores, 
Avhen  Amycus  challenged  any  of  them  to  a  pugilistic  contest. 
The  challenge  was  accepted  by  Pollux,  who  easily  overcame  him, 
and,  according  to  some  versions  of  the  m3th,  slew  him,  although 
others  state  that  he  bound  him  to  a  tree  and  there  left  him.  The 
latter  version  is  followed  here,  and  indeed  was  the  favourite  cme 
with  Greek  artists,  who  often  illustrated  it  on  vases  and  mirrors. 
The  lid  is  adorned  with  designs  by  the  same  hand,  representing 
the  chase  of  the  stag  and  of  the  wild  boar. 

The  designs  on  this  cista  are  of  matchless  beauty,  and  un- 
questionably of  Greek  art,  of  the  best  period,  although  they  have 


498  EOME.  [CHAP.  Lxiir. 

been  asciibetl  to  the  close  of  the  fifth  century  of  Rome.'' 
Bronsted  asserts  that  the  designs  were  originally  filled  in  ■with 
gold,  which  was  seen  b}-  himself  and  Thorwaldsen ;  but  no  traces 
of  it  are  now  visible,  though  tliere  are  vestiges  of  silvermg.'' 

So  much  for  the  cist((  itself;  it  is  eas}'  to  perceive  at  a  glance 
that  its  adjuncts  do  not  form  jiart  of  the  original.  For  it  rests  on 
three  eagle's  feet,  each  graspmg  a  toad  ;  and  above  each  foot  is  a 
group  of  three  figures  in  relief,  one  standing  between  two  sitting. 
Two  of  these  groups  seem  to  be  cast  from  the  same  mould,  but  the 
third  is  evidently  a  copy,  and  a  wretched  copy,  of  the  others. 
The  handle  in  the  centre  of  the  lid  is  also  composed  of  three 
figures,  the  central  one  the  tallest,  who  passes  his  arms  round  the 
necks  of  two  fauns,  naked,  with  a  deer-skin  tied  round  their  necks 
and  depending  behind.  These  figiu'es  are  stunted  and  inelegant, 
and  are  evidently  subsequent  additions  to  the  cista  ;  in  fact  the 
plaque  on  which  they  stand  covers  the  graven  decorations  of  the 
lid.  The  same  character  may  be  given  to  the  groups  of  figures 
above  the  feet.  A  comparison  of  these  coarse  clumsy  groups  in 
relief  and  in  the  round  with  the  exquisite  and  refined  forms  gi'aven 
on  the  body  of  the  monument,  affords  convincing  jiroof  that  the 
same  hand  cannot  have  produced  the  whole  Avork.  It  is  as  if  a 
drinking-bout  by  Teniers  were  introduced  as  a  back-ground  to  the 
Madonna  della  Seggiola.  There  appear,  indeed,  to  be  four  dis- 
tinct periods  or  styles  of  art  in  this  cista,  as  it  noAv  stands.  First,, 
the  pure  Greek  style  of  the  original  monument.  Second,  the 
realistic  Etruscan  or  Italic  style,  recognisable  in  the  best  preserved 
foot-group,  that  below  the  figure  drinking.  Tliird,  the  coarser 
Etruscan  style  of  the  handle-group  ;  and  Fom'th,  the  miserable 
style,  or  rather  absence  of  style,  in  the  third  foot-group,  which 
ma}'  be  lioman,  or  anything  else. 

The  plaque,  on  wliich  rest  the  figures  which  compose  the  handle,, 
bears  this  inscription  in  early  Roman  letters  : — 

NO^IOS    TLAYTIOS    MED    EOM.VI    FECI!).: 

and  behind  the  group  is  another  epigraph  : — 

DIXDIA    LtACOLXIA    FTLEAI    DEDIT. 

It  is  evident  that  these  inscriptions  have  been  added  subse- 
(luently  to  the  cinta,  togetlier  with  the  figures  of  the  handle,  for 
they  are  engraved  on  the  same  piece  of  bronze,  which  now  covers 
some  of  the  original  design  of  the  lid,  and  has,  moreover,  a  yellow 

*  Mommsen  ap.  Jabn,  Cist.  Ficor.  p.  42.  •"'  Ann.  Inst.  1866,  p.  154 — Schonc. 


CHAP.  Lxiii]  THE    PALESTRINA    CASKET.  499 

Lrassy  hue,  veiy  unlike  the  delicate  green  patina-clad  metal  of 
the  cista  itself.     The  fonuer  inscription  therefore  prohably  applies 
to  the  handle  alone,  and  may  have  been   added  when  the  casket 
Avas  restored  and  rendered  fit,  by  the  addition  of  the   feet  and 
handle,  to  be   presented  b}'  Dindia  Macolnia  as  a  nuptial  gift  to 
lier  daugliter.     Or  if  it  have  reference  to  the  entire  casket,  it  may 
have  taken   the  place   of  a  previous  inscription  on  the  original 
handle,  -which  recorded  the  name  of  the  Greek  artist.     It  is  more 
probable,  however,  that  it  has  reference  to  the  restoration  alone. 
Whether  the  cista  Avas  executed  in  Greece,  or  at  Prseneste,  or  in 
Home  itself,  it  is  manifestly  the  production  of  a  Greek  hand.     It 
cannot  be  the  work  of  a  mere  imitator;  the  genuine  spirit  and 
feeling  of  Hellenic  art  pervade  the  entire  subject ;    and  it  has 
been  well  remarked  that  among  all  the  monuments  recognised 
as  Greek  there  is  not  one  of  purer  and  more   perfect  design.'' 
Among  the  many  figured  ciste  that  have  been  rescued  from  the 
tombs  of  Prteneste  and  of  Yulci,  not  a  few  of  which  are  remark- 
able for  the  beauty  of  their  graven   designs,  this    still   stands 
2)re-emincnt,  fdc'ilc  prinrrps. 

The  Palestuixa  Treasure. 

On  the  same  floor  of  the  building  is  exhibited  the  wonderful 
treasure  of  gold,  silver,  and  bronze  discovered  at  Palestrina  in 
the  spring  of  1876,  and  recently  purchased  by  the  Italian 
Government. 

These  articles  formed  the  furniture  of  an  ancient  tomb,  exca- 
vated b}^  some  peasants  in  the  plain  about  three  furlongs  from 
that  town,  and  not  far  from  the  church  of  San  llocco.  It  was  not 
only  a  virgin-tomb,  but,  fortunately  for  its  discoverers,  it  was  the 
last  resting-place  of  sonie  nameless  chieftain  or  high-priest,  whose 
wealth  had  been  buried  with  him,  and  was  thus  i)reserved  intact 
through  nearly  3,000  years.  Its  contents  bear  a  close  analogy  to 
tliose  of  the  Pegulini  tomb  at  Cervetri,  but  the  tomb  itself  was 
even  of  a  more  primitive  construction.  It  was  not  built  up  in  the 
form  of  a  passage,  like  that  celebrated  sepulchre,  nor  was  it  a 
subterranean  chamber,  like  so  many  tombs  in  Etruria.  It  was  a 
mere  pit,  sunk  two  yards  below  the  surface,  surrounded  by  rudt; 
masonry,  inclosing  a  si)ace  some  six  yards  b}'  four,  within  which, 

*■  Ann.  In.st.  1866,  p.  202  — Schiine.  tav.  2;  F.raun,  Die  Ficoron.  Cista,  1840; 
Tills  wonderful  work  of  Greek  art  has  been  and  hy  Padre  IMarclii,  iu  his  work  on  this 
illustrated  by  Gerhard,  Etrusk.  Spieg.  I.       Cista,  llouia,  IS 48. 

K  K  2 


500  EO^IE.  [cHAr.  lxiii. 

in  a  cavity  sunk  in  tlie  floiir,  was  deposited  the  body,  in  all  its 
l)anoply  of  rich  vestments  and  gorgeous  ornaments,  -whicli  sur- 
pass iu  their  ehiborate  beauty  even  those  of  the  Ilegulini  sepul- 
chre. By  its  side  lay  also  weapons  and  armour,  and  around  the 
■walls  of  the  pit  were  deposited  various  articles  for  the  toilet  or 
for  domestic  use,  in  the  precious  metals  and  in  bronze,  all 
covered  with  earth,  on  which,  at  some  height,  were  laid  rude 
slabs  of  stone,  also  covered  witli  earth,  so  as  to  leave  no  trace  of 
the  existence  of  interment  below.  Not  a  vestige  of  a  roof,  if  such 
ever  existed,  was  to  be  seen. 

To  specify  all  the  wonders  of  this  tomb  would  occupy  too  much 
space,  3'et  some  of  its  contents  are  so  novel  and  curious  as  not  to 
be  passed  over  lightly.  To  begin  with  the  case  containing  the 
gold  roha.  The  most  striking  object  in  the  collection,  and  the 
most  elaborate  piece  of  jewellery  perhaps  ever  rescued  from  an 
Italian  sepulchre,  is  an  oblong  plate  of  gold,  eight  inches  b}'  five, 
studded  all  over  with  minute  figures  of  beasts  and  cliiniieras,  not  in 
relief,  but  standing  up  bodily  from  tlie  plate,  and  numbering  not  less 
than  131  in  that  limited  space.  There  are  five  rows  of  tiny  lions, 
arranged  longitudinal!}',  some  standing  with  their  tails  curled  over 
their  backs,  some  couchant,  others  sitting  on  their  haunches,  two 
rows  of  cliimeeras,  and  two  of  sirens,  flanked  transversely  at  each 
end  by  a  row  of  exquisitely  formed  little  horses,  full  of  life  and 
spirit.  These  ends  terminate  in  small  c^'lindrical  rollers,  decorated 
with  meander-patterns  delicatel}'  frosted,  and  with  a  lion's  head 
at  each  extremity.  It  is  doubtful  whether  this  marvellous  piece 
of  goldsmith's  work  was  worn  on  the  breast  or  on  the  head.  To 
judge  from  the  place  in  which  it  was  found  in  the  tomb,  at  the 
east  end  of  the  cavity  in  which  the  body  lay,  and  from  the  analogy 
of  Etruscan  or  Italic  breast-plates  in  the  Gregorian  ^Museum,  and 
in  the  possession  of  Signor  Augusto  Castellani,  all  of  which  are 
much  superior  in  size,  I  am  inclined  to  believe  it  was  worn  on 
the  head.  It  is  evident,  from  certain  little  eyes  at  the  back  of  the 
[)late,  that  it  was  sewn  on  to  some  stufl";  but  how  it  was  worn, 
and  who  he  was  who  was  entitled  to  wear  it,  is,  and  will  probably 
ever  remain,  matter  of  conjecture.*^ 

In  the  same  cavity,  by  the  side  of  the  body,  lay  three  fibula, 
whose  tarnished  colour  shows  tliem  to  be,  not  of  pure  gold,  but 

®  Dr.   HelLig  takes  it   to  liave  been  a  to  tlie  oval  plaques  of  golil  found  in  the 

headdress,  and  gives  Ksthetie  reasons  for  Kegulini-Galassi  tomb,  which  we  liave  every 

so  regarding  it.      Bull.  Inst.  1876,  p.  122.  reason   to  believe  were  worn  on  the  head. 

It  bears  a  great  analogy  also,  save  in  form,  I't  supra,  p.  iSb. 


CHAP.  Lxiii.]  PALESTRINA  GOLD   AND   SILVER  TREASURE.       501 

of  electrum,  an  alloy  of  tliat  metal  Avith  silver.  One  of  them  is 
studded  ■with  tiny  sphinxes,  another  with  little  lions,  having 
double  luunan  faces,  of  the  same  elaborate  workmanship  as  those 
that  decorate  the  head-dress.  Here  were  also  found  three  small 
cylindrical  cases  of  the  same  mixed  metal,  from  six  to  eight  inches 
in  length,  and  about  three-ipiarters  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  orna- 
mented with  meanders  and  chevrons.  They  seem  to  have  served 
to  hold  stijli.  Vnxt  of  pure  gold,  bright  as  if  newly  polished,  is  a 
little  plain  shijplios,  or  two-handled  cup,  about  four  inches  high, 
with  two  Egyptian  sjihinxes  at  the  setting-on  of  each  handle.  By 
its  side  stands  a  bowl  full  of  fragments  of  gold  leaf,  the  relics  of 
the  vestments  of  the  priest  or  warrior,  which  Avere  found  mingled 
with  his  dust.  There  are  fragments  also  of  a  fringe  of  pm-e  silver 
thread,  which  may  have  adorned  his  robes,  or  more  i)robably  his 
bier,  for  tubes  of  bronze,  still  containing  wood,  and  ornamented 
with  silver  lions,  and  with  a  fringe  of  the  same  metal,  were  found 
in  the  cavity  with  the  human  remains.  On  the  other  side  of  the 
body  were  discovered  four  heads  of  javelins,  in  iron,  with  remains 
<jf  their  wooden  shafts  ;  and  two  iron  daggers  in  silver  sheaths, 
adorned  with  figures  of  men,  centaurs,  and  animals  in  relief,  and 
with  hilts  ornamented  with  amber.  Against  the  wall  of  the  i)it 
were  also  found  the  remains  of  three  bronze  circular  shields, 
stamped  with  geometrical  jiatterns,  but  these  are  now  a  mere  heap 
of  fragments.  But  to  return  to  the  Kircherian  Museum — in  the 
same  case  as  the  head-dress  are  numerous  pieces  of  ivory,  some 
with  lotus-flowers  engraved  on  them  and  gilt,  and  all  Egyptian  in 
character — the  adornments  probably  of  some  article  of  furniture, 
which  has  long  since  perished.  ( )n  one  plaque  is  represented  the 
boat  of  the  Sun,  with  a  steersman  at  each  end,  and  the  deity  seated 
in  the  middle,  to  whom  people  are  presenting  their  offerings.  In 
the  same  case  are  five  silver  combs  with  very  fine  teeth,  and  a 
band  of  birds  in  relief  along  the  back  ;  together  with  many  small 
buttons  formed  of  gokl-leaf  laid  on  wood  or  bone,  resembling 
shirt-studs  ;  and  a  perfect  bowl  oi  blue  glass,  probably  the  earliest 
in  this  material  yet  found  in  Italy.  It  was  discovered  inside  one 
of  the  silver  bowls. 

In  a  glass-case  by  the  window  are  sundry  bowls  of  silver  gilt, 
some  plain,  others  adorned  with  figures  in  repousse  work.  (Jf  this 
description  is  a  cup  five  inches  in  diameter,  with  two  bands  of 
Egyptian  figures.  It  is  marked  No.  10.  Of  silver  gilt  is  also  No,  20, 
an  open  bowl,  eight  inches  in  diameter,  with  most  curious  scenes 
of  men  attacking  huge  apes  or  gorillas,  who  resist  with  sticks  and 


502  HOME.  [chap.  lxhi. 

stones  ;  all  the  figures  seem  purely  Egyptian.  No.  21  is  a  silver 
bowl  of  the  same  size,  not  gilt,  with  Kgyptian  figures  rcjwitssc'  and 
incised,  and  surrounded  by  hieroglyphics  in  a  double  band,  with  a 
broad  band  of  the  same  also  beneath  the  central  scene.  This  bowl 
is  likewise  remai-kable  for  bearing  a  Punic  inscription,  in  such 
extremely  minute  characters  as  Avith  difficulty  to  catch  the  eye. 
A  sitida,  of  globular  form,  which  is  adorned  with  Egyptian  figures 
representing  a  lion-hunt,  is  peculiar  in  having  six  serpents'  lieads 
in  massive  silver,  gilt,  bristling  around  the  edge  of  the  bowl. 
There  are  other  silver  bowls  broken  and  smashed  ;  and  a  perfect 
.^iimpuhnn  of  the  same  metal,  Avliose  handle  terminates  in  a  swan's 
head.  No.  39  is  a  broad  handle  of  silver,  bearing  a  double  repre- 
sentation of  the  Assyrian  Artemis,  holding  two  panthers  by  their 
throats. 

Not  the  least  curious  and  interesting  articles  in  this  wonderful 
collection,  are  the  bronzes.  Here  is  a  pedestal  of  peculiar 
form,  a  truncated  cone  with  recurved  lips,  like  a  modern  flower- 
glass,  standing  thirty-five  inches  high,  and  showing  four  pegasi 
rearing,  in  relief,  as  the  adornments  of  its  body.  It  might  be 
taken  for  a  pot,  but,  as  it  is  not  open  above,  it  can  only  have 
served  as  a  pedestal. 

A  Iches  or  caldron  of  bronze  supported  on  an  iron  tripod,  with 
liuman  feet  of  bronze,  and  a  bronze  top,  on  which  stand  three 
naked  men,  or  rather  satyrs,  with  brutes'  ears,  peeping  into  the  bowl, 
and  alternating  with  three  dogs  in  a  similar  position  and  attitude. 
Another  lehcs  has  two  handles,  each  decorated  with  two  bulls' 
lieads.  But  the  most  strange  and  incomprehensible  of  the  relics 
in  bronze  are  two  crosses,  each  formed  of  two  tubes  of  bronze, 
retaining  fragments  of  their  wooden  shafts,  and  fastened  together 
at  right  angles.  At  the  extremities  of  each,  a  dragon,  a  lion,  or  a 
wolf,  is  represented  couchant,  devouring  his  prey.  At  tlie  point 
of  intersection,  in  one  instance  stands  a  lion  with  tail  curled 
over  his  back  ;  in  the  other,  a  human  figure  bearing  an  enormous 
plume  of  feathers  on  his  head.  Behind  this,  in  the  former  case, 
a  man  and  a  woman  stand,  each  crowned  with  this  disproportionate 
plume  ;  and  in  the  latter,  their  place  is  occupied,  on  one  side  by 
a  centaur,  on  tlie  other,  by  a  human  figure  kneeling,  both  over- 
shadowed by  these  palm-like  crests  of  feathers.  I  confess  myself 
quite  at  a  loss  to  explain  these  singular  cross-tubes.  The  best 
solution  I  can  suggest  is  that  they  formed  the  angular  adornments 
of  a  bed  or  bier,  the  frame  of  which  was  of  wood.  The  art  of  the 
figures  here  represented  is  coarse,  and  quite  Etruscan. 


«cHAP.  Lxm.]  EEOXZES    FROM    PALESTEINA.  503 

It  cannot  escape  observation  that  while  the  articles  in  gold, 
silver,  and  ivor}-,  arc  purely  oriental  in  character,  and  the  silver 
bowls  are  apparently  importations  from  the  banks  of  the  Nile," 
those  in  bronze  bear  so  much  resemblance  to  Etruscan  works, 
that  we  cannot  hesitate  to  pronounce  them  at  least  Italic, 
whether  from  the  right  or  left  bank  of  the  Tiber.^ 

The  Italian  (government  has  purchased  this  extraordinary 
collection  of  sepulchral  furniture  for  the  moderate  sum  of  70,000 
francs.  When  I  saw  it  at  Palestrina  soon  after  its  discovery,  the 
l)rice  asked  was  five  times  as  great. 

The  Vui.cian  Fhescoes. 

In  the  rooms  adjoining  are  exhibited  the  frescoes  from  the 
Francois  tomb  discovered  at  A^ulci  in  1857.  These  are  no 
copies,  but  the  original  paintings  cut  from  the  walls  of  the  tomb 
soon  after  its  discovery,  and  then  removed  to  Eome,  where  for 
man}'  years  they  were  preserved  in  the  palace  of  Prince  Alessandro 
Torlonia,  who  had  purchased  the  Bonaparte  estate  at  Canino,  in 
which  the  sepulchre  was  found.  In  1875,  however,  the  Prince 
transferred  them  for  exhibition  to  the  CoUegio  Homano,  where  they 
excite  much  interest,  not  only  from  theii*  style  of  art,  which  is 
sup'erior  to  that  of  most  Etruscan  wall-paintings,  but  also  from 

'■'  Dr.  Uelbig  regards  the  silver  Lowls  as  instances  the  foreign  inscription  appears 
Phoenician  imitations  of  Egyptian  and  to  have  been  inserted  as  a  mere  mark  of 
AssjTian  works,  introduced  into  Italy  by  ownership.  j\Ioreover,  instances  of  Punic 
the  Cartliaginians,  not  earlier  than  650  B.C.  inscriptions  on  works  of  foreign  ai"t — 
He  maintains  that  tlie  style  of  art  is  a  Assyrian,  Egyptian,  Greek,  Koman — arc 
compound  of  Egyptian  and  Assyrian  cle-  so  numerous,  that  we  may  well  venture  to 
ments,  sometimes  the  one,  sometimes  the  question  that  the  inscription  on  this  bowl 
other  predominating,  but  both  in  coi'tain  proves  its  i'unic  origin, 
cases  being  mingled  in  the  same  bowl,  and  '  For  illustrations,  see  ]\ron.  Inst.  X., 
even  in  the  same  figure.  He  cites  the  tav.  31 — 33.  The  close  similarity,  not  to 
Punic  inscription  in  the  silver  bowl,  No.  say  identity,  of  the  bronzes  found  in  Etiniria 
21,  as  decisive  of  its  origin.  Ann.  Inst.  and  at  Pra;neste,  is  well  known.  The  archaic 
187(5,  pp.  197 — 257.  Yet  this  inscription  shields  from  the  tombs  of  Ca^re  and  of  Prae- 
is  so  minute  as  to  be  scarcely  discernible,  iieste  seem  to  have  been  turned  out  of  the 
■while  the  hieroglyphics  are  on  a  large  scale  same  workshop.  Ann.  Inst.  IStiG,  i\  410. 
■and  form  a  prominent  part  of  the  decori-  Uetween  the  most  ancient  toreutic  produc- 
tions. To  most  observers  it  will  ai>pear  tions  of  Etruria  and  of  Latiuni  there  is  no 
not  more  probable  that  this  inscription  essential  difference.  The  same  holds  gooil 
marks  the  Punic  origin  of  this  apparently  of  the  bronzes  of  more  advanced  periods  of 
Egyptian  vase,  than  that  the  Etruscan  art.  The  engraved  cistc  and  mirrors  are  so 
legend  beneath  the  foot  of  the  Lylix  of  similar,  that  it  is  impossible  to  pronounce 
Oltos  and  Euxitheos  in  the  ^Museum  of  from  a  consideration  of  the  art  alone,  on 
<!!orneto,  stamps  that  beautiful  work  of  which  bank  of  the  Tiber  any  monument  of 
undoubted  Greek  art  as  of  Etruscan  manu-  this  description  was  discovered, 
facture.      See   Vol.    I.    p.    4u5.     -In   both 


504  IK  )Mi:.  [chap.  lxiu. 

their  subjects,  some  of  ^vllic•ll  illustrate  the  native  traditions 
respecting  the  Etruscan  dynasty  of  liome. 

Among  them  are  illustrations  of  certain  Greek  myths.  Here 
Ajax  (*'  AivAS  ")  is  seizing  Cassandra  ("  Casntea  ")  by  the  hair  of 
her  head,  and  is  about  to  draw  his  sword,  while  she,  embracing 
the  image  of  Pallas  with  one  hand,  endeavom-s  to  thrust  him- 
away  with  the  other.  There  Polyneikes  and  Eteoldes  are.  ending 
their  fratricidal  struggle  by  mutual  slaughter.  Here  Amphiaraus,. 
to  whom  divine  honours  were  paid  after  his  death,  encounters 
Sisyphus  in  Hades,  who  is  represented,  not  rolling  the  huge  rock 
up  the  hill,  according  to  the  version  of  the  poets,  but  bearing  it  on 
liis  shoulders.  On  the  top  of  the  mass,  a  pair  of  wings  is  dis- 
tinguishable, doubtless  to  denote  the  unseen  power  which 
rendered  all  his  labour  in  vain,  and  hurled  the  rock  again  down 
the  slope,  just  as  it  had  reached  the  summit."  There  Nestor 
("  Nestur  "),  and  Phcenix  ("  Phuixis  "),  each  standing  beneath 
a  palm-tree,  are  conversing  from  opposite  sides  of  a  doorway. 
It  will  be  remembered  that  both  took  part  in  the  games  held 
in  honour  of  Patroclus  :  their  presence  therefore  in  this  tomb  is. 
appropriate. 

The  scene  of  most  interest,  and  at  the  same  time  of  most, 
horror,  taken  from  the  mythical  or  poetical  history  of  Greece,  is 
one  which  represents  the  sacrifice  of  Trojan  captives  to  the  manes 
of  Patroclus.  Achilles  ("  Achle  ")  himself  is  the  priest  or 
butcher.  For  he  occupies  the  centre  of  the  scene,  clad  in  brazen^ 
cuirass  and  greaves,  his  long  yellow  locks  uncovered  by  helmet, 
and  seizing  by  the  hair  the  wretched  Trojan  ("TnurALs")  captive 
who  sits  naked  at  his  feet  imploring  mere}',  he  thrusts  his  sword 
into  his  neck  ;  just  as  the  "  swift-footed  son  of  Peleus"  is  repre- 
sented having  treated  Lycaon,  the  first  victim  he  sacrificed  to  his. 
friend  Patroclus.'^  Above  this  Trojan  stands  Charun  ("  CiiAEr"),. 
in  red  jacket  and  blue  cA?7o»,  wearing  a  cap  or  helmet,  and  bearing 
his  mallet  on  liis  shoulder,  ready  to  strike.  Plis  flesh  is  a  livid 
gi'ey,  but  in  other  respects  he  is  hardly  so  hideous  and  truculent 
as  he  is  represented  on  many  other  Etruscan  monuments.  He  is 
looking  steadfastly  at  a  female  demon,  designated  "  Yanth,"  who 
stands  behind  Achilles,  with  wings  outspread,  in  an  attitude  of 
expectation,  with  her  right  hand  raised,  and  watching  the  sacrifice^ 
as  if  to  indicate  to  Charun  the  moment  when  it  will  become  liis 
dut}'  to  convey  the  spirit  of  the  victim  to  the  infernal  world. 
This  deity,  who  is  probably  the   demon  of  death,  answering  to- 

2  Horn.  Odys.  XI.  596.  •'  Horn.  Iliail,  XXI.  IIG. 


CHAP.  Lxiii.j      THE  WALL-PAINTINGS  FlfoM  AULtT.  6or> 

the  Thcnuitos  of  the  Greeks,'^  wears  earrings  and  snake-bracelets, 
and  is  draped  in  Avhite,  bordered  with  purple,  but  there  is  no- 
thing beyond  her  wings  to  distinguish  her  from  a  mortal.  Behind 
her  stands,  not  Patroclus,  but  his  shade,  designated  '*  Hintiiial 
l*Ai  uuKLES,"  ^  with  a  white  band  across  his  bosom,  and  a  blue 
nnd  white  band  about  his  head.  He  is  wrapped  in  a  blue  paWnm, 
and  a  large  circular  shield,  probably  that  of  Achilles,  rests  at  his 
feet.  Behind  him  stands  a  bearded  figure,  si)ear  in  hand,  but 
without  armour,  half-clad  in  a  white  jxiUinni  bordered  with  purple, 
whom,  from  the  inscription  "  Achmenrun  "  over  his  head,  we 
learn  to  represent  the  "king  of  men."  Homer,  be  it  remembered, 
represents  him  as  present,  and  taking  a  prominent  part  in  the 
obsequies  of  Patroclus. 

The  right  half  of  the  scene  is  occupied  by  the  two  Ajaces, 
each  bringing  forward  a  victim,  naked  and  wounded,  whose  hands 
are  bound  behind  his  back.  Ajax  Telamonius  ("  Aivas  Ti,amu- 
Nus  ")  the  more  jirominent  of  the  two,  is  fully  armed  ;  and  Ajax 
Oileus  ("  AivAs  Vilatas  ")  is  similarly  armed,  but  without  a 
helmet.  The  funeral  pyre,  on  which  the  corpse  of  Patroclus  was 
already  laid,  before  the  sacrifices  of  captives,  horses,  and  dogs, 
were  made  to  his  vianes,  is  not  shown.  But,  save  the  introduc- 
tion of  Charun  and  Vanth,  wlio  belong  to  the  Etruscan  spirit- 
world,  the  scene  agTees  well  with  the  description  given  us  in  tlie 
twenty-third  book  of  the  Iliad.''  These  were  the  first  wall- 
paintings  found  in  Ktruriu  which  were   illustrative   of  Hellenic 

■•  Her  name  even  is  thought  to  bear  an  of  Charun.     Mou.  Inst.  IL  tav.  9. 
affinity  to  Thanatos.     See  the  remarks  of  '  An  urn  found  at  Yolterra  contains  the 

Lignana,   Bull.  Ir.st.    1876,   j).  208.     The  whole   of    this    scene,    except    the    three 

name   "Vanth"  is  attached  to  a  female  figures  behind  Achilles,  rudely  carved,  hut 

demon  on  the  large  max'ble  sarcophagus  of  identical  in  the  conijiosition,  leaving  not  a 

the    Casuccini    collection.        Yidc    supra,  doul)t  that  either  the  one  was  taken  from 

]).  317.  the  other,  or  both  from  the  same  original. 

'  The  word  "  /tintJii"/,"  is  m>\v  well  The  scene  between  Ajax  and  Cassandra  is 
ascertained  by  monumental  evidence  to  be  also  found  on  an  Ktruscan  urn  illustrated 
equivalent  to  the  etSuAov  of  the  Greeks.  by  Gori  (Mus.  Etr.  II.  tiiv.  125).  It  can- 
In  the  Grotta  dell'  Oreo  at  Corneto,  we  not  be  doubted  that  the  Etruscan  artists, 
have  a  figure  painted  on  the  wall,  and  like  the  lloman,  made  use  of  certain 
called  "  Hiuthial  Teriasals,"  or  the  shade  models,  celebrated  in  their  day  and  in 
of  Teiresias.  A  mirror  found  at  Vulci  in  most  cases  Greek,  which  they  varied  and 
1835,  and  now  in  the  Gregorian  JMuseum,  mnditied  at  pleasure  ;  and  thus  is  explained 
in  which  Ulysses  is  represented  consulting  the  similar  treatment  of  mythological  sub- 
the  shade  of  Teiresias  in  Hades,  is  inscribed  jects  hy  the  artists  of  the  different  cities  of 
"Hinthial  Terasias."  i't  sujiii-a,  p.  482;  Etruria,  which  is  observable  esiiecially  in 
Men.  Inst.  II.  tav.  2^.  And  an  Etruscan  the  reliefs  on  cinerary  urns  and  sarco- 
Ta.se  in  the  Beugnot  collection,  has  the  phagi.  See  Ann.  Inst.  1859,  pp.  353-367, 
©[ligraph  "Hiuthial  Turmucas"  attachcil  Urunu. 
to  a  female  figure  represented  in  the  charge 


50G  EOME.  [chap,  lxiii. 

myths,  but  since  tlieir  discovery,  that  of  tlie  Grotta  dell'  Oreo  at 
Corneto  has  afforded  us  additional  proof  that  the  Etruscans  did 
not  always  confine  the  pictorial  adornments  of  their  sepulchres 
to  the  illustration  of  the  peculiar  customs,  funeral  observances, 
or  religious  creed  of  their  native  land. 

Another  revolting  scene  of  slaughter,  taken  from  the  Etruscan 
annals,  covered  the  opposite  wall  of  the  tomb.  It  would  be 
unintelligible  were  it  not  that  each  figure  has  its  name  attached 
in  Etruscan  characters.  Mastarna  ("  Makstrxa  ")  with  three 
companions,  all,  with  one  exception,  naked,  and  armed  onh^  with 
slioi-t  swords,  is  represented  in  the  act  of  liberating  Cseles 
Vibenna  ("  Kaii.e  Yipixas  '")  from  prison.  IMastarna  is  cutting 
with  his  sword  the  cords  which  bomid  the  arms  of  his  friend, 
while  his  comrades  are  murdering  three  unarmed  men,  who 
appear  to  have  been  just  aroused  from  theii'  slumbers,  and  who 
probably  represent  the  gaolers.  Their  names  are  "  Larth 
Ulthes,"  "  PiASKE,"  and  "  Ayle  Yipixas,"  and  their  victims 
are    respectively   designated    "  Laeis    Papathxas    A^elzxach," 

"  Pesxa   Arkmsxas    Svetdiach,"    and    "  Yexthiical 

pi.sACHS."  On  the  adjoining  wall  a  fourth  companion  of 
Mastama,    called    "  Maeke    Camitlxas,"    is    about   to   mm-der 

"  CXEM3  TaRKU  EuMACH." 

We  learn  from  the  fragment  of  a  speech  of  the  Emperor 
Claudius,"  who  wrote  the  history  of  Etruria  in  twent}'  books  and 
ma}'  be  i:>resumed  to  have  well  mastered  his  subject,''  that 
Mastarna  was  the  Etruscan  name  of  Servius  Tullius,  avIio, 
according  to  the  Pioman  annals,  was  born  of  a  slave  Ocresia,  but 
by  the  Etruscan  chronicles  was  represented  to  have  been  the 
faithful  companion  of  Cieles  Yibenna,  and  the  sharer  of  all  his 
foilmies  ;  that  Avhen  that  Etruscan  chieftain  was  driven  out  of 
his  native  land,  and  brought  the  remains  of  his  army  to  Pome, 
where  they  occupied  the  mount  which  from  him  was  called  the 
Cielian,  Mastarna  accompanied  him,  changed  his  name  to  Servius 
Tullius,  and  eventually  obtained  the  royal  dignity  as  successor 
to  Tarquinius  Priscus.  The  scene  here  represented  probably 
illustrates  some  prior  event  in  "the  varied  fortunes"  of  Caeles 
Yibenna,  of  which  we  have  no  record,  and  which  from  the  names 
of  the  victims  appears  to  have  haj^pened  in  Etruria.  That  Cteles 
had  a  brother  named  Aules,  we  ah-ead}-  knew  from  Latin  writers, 
and  that  he  Avas  slain  at  Pome  b}'  one  of  his  brother's  servants.'' 

'   Inscribed  on  a  bronze  tablet  found  at  '^  Suetonius,  Claud.  42. 

Lyon.     Gruter,  p.  502.  ^  Amobius  Adv.    Nat.   VI.   7.     Festus 


CHAP.  Lxiii.]  ETRUSCAX  HISTORY  WRITTEX  IX  FRESCO.        507 

The  other  nunies  lien.'  inscribed  are  ([uite  unknown,  Init  we  may 
remark  that  there  is  reason  to  beheve  that  the  terminal  "  AcU  " 
vsignifies,  from,  or  of,  and  that  used  in  combination  with  a  proper 
noun,  it  indicates  the  origin  of  tlie  individual ;  thus,  Lans 
l'a[)atlnias  comiis  i'lom  A'elsina,  and  Cneve  Tarku  from  Homo. 

Two  figures,  and  b\'  no  means  tlie  least  interesthig,  remain  to  be 
noticed.  By  the  side  of  one  of  the  false  doors  painted  on  the  walls 
of  the  toml),  stands  a  man,  named  "  Vel  Saties,"  with  a  hiurel- 
wreatli  about  liis  brow,  sandals  on  his  feet,  and  a  large  toga  of  a 
l)urplish-brown  hue  over  his  shoulders,  which  is  decorated  with  a 
scroll  border,  and  with  three  figures  of  naked  men  dancing  with 
sword  and  shield.  From  the  coLjur  of  his  toga,  from  his  wreath, 
and  from  his  attitude'gazing  intently  upwards,  we  may  infer  him  to 
represent  an  augur,  which  view  is  confirmed  by  the  figure  of  the 
boy  crouching  at  his  feet  in  white  tunic  bordered  witli  purple, 
who  holds  up  a  bird  on  his  fist  which  appears  to  be  fastened  by 
a  string.  This  boy  is  designated  "Aenza."^  The  figured  toga 
worn  by  Saties  is  doubtless  the  toga  picta,  which  in  Eome  was 
worn  only  by  generals  in  their  triumphal  processions,  but  in 
Etruria  was  the  inshjne  of  magisterial  dignity,"  and  of  which  this 
is,  I  believe,  the  only  coloured  representation  that  has  come 
down  to  us.  Tliese  two  figures,  in  an  artistic  point  of  view,  are 
inferior  to  the  others  in  this  tomb. 

Tliese  frescoes  belong  to  a  period  when  tlie  art  of  Etruria 
had  been  deeply  influenced  by  that  of  Greece.  Not  only  do  the 
subjects  here  represented  prove  an  intimate  acquaintance  with 
the  mytholog}'  and  poetry  of  the  Greeks,  but  the  masterly  design 
throughout  betrays  a  careful  study  of  Hellenic  models.  The 
vigour  and  truth  of  the  movements,  the  natural  pose  of  the 
<[uiescent  figures,  and  the  charming  grace  of  the  fragmentary 
figure  of  Cassandra,  which  may  be  a  copy  of  a  Greek  original, 
are  so   many  evidences    of  this    study  and   of  the   influence  it 

also  (s.  V.  Tiiscum  Viciim)  in  a  mutilated  <hat  Kome  would  govern  the  world.     Cf. 

pa.ssage,    seems   to   refer   to   two    brothers  Plin.   XXVIII.   4  ;  Dion.   Hal.  I\'.   c.  61  ; 

Vibeuna,  who  came  to  Rome  in  the  time  Tat-it.  Ann.  IV.  65. 

of  Tarquinius  Priscus.     Arnobius  tells  us  ^  This  boy  bears  much  affinity  to  certain 

that  Tarquinius,    in    digging   the    foiinda-  figures  in  bi'onze,  which  rejiresent  a  boy  in 

tioDs  for  the  temple  of  Jupiter  Cajjitolinu.s,  a  sitting  or  squatting  position,  with  a  bird 

brought  to  light  a  bloody  head,  which  was  on  his  hand.      Ut  siqmt,  p.  479. 
supposed   to  be  that   of   OIus   (Aulus)  or  -  IMacrob.  Sat.  I.  6.     The  torfa  trahea. 

Tolas,  from  which  the  temple  aiul  hill  took  when  wholly  of  purple,   was  .sacred  to  the 

the   name   of    Capitolinus.      Servius    (ad  gods ;    that  of  purple  with  a  little  white 

3^n.    VIII.    345)    adds   that   an    Etruscan  wa-s    worn    by  kings  ;  that  of  purple   and 

aruspex  being  consulted  iis  to  the  meaning  saffron  by  augurs.     Suctou.   ap.   Serv.  aJ 

of  this  omen,  interpreted  it  ;is  a  prognostic  ^-En.  VIl.  012. 


503 


EOME. 


[CUAP.   LXIII. 


exeiled  on  native  art.  Yet  tlie  Etruscan  cLiu'acter  is  not  lost — 
only  subdued  and  modified  by  tbe  superior  refinement  of  the 
Grecian.^ 


3  "The  base  of  the  style,"  says  Dr. 
Brunn,  "the  entire  character  of  the  de- 
sign and  of  the  colouring,  the  conception 
of  the  tigiires,  and  a  great  part  of  the  sub- 
jects in  this  tomb  aie  Greek."  Neverthe- 
less even  a  superficial  glance  sliows  an 
Etruscan  hand,  and  the  sentiment  of  the 
whole  is  so  thoroughly  Itiilic,  that  a  person 
■who  was  present  at  the  oj'ening  of  the  tomb 
fancied  for  the  moment  that  he  was  looking 
at  Tuscan  paintings  of  the  cinque-cento 
period.  "  ^Ve  have  here  in  fact  (ireek  art 
accommodated  to  Etruscan  feeling."  Ann. 
Inst.  1806,  p.  432.  See  also  Bull  Inst. 
1&57,  pp.  113-131,  Xoel  Des  Vergers  ; 
and  Etrurie  et  les  Etrusques,  II.  pp.  47- 
52;  m.  p.  IS,  and  pi.  21  30. 

The  description  which  the  discoverer, 
AL  Des  Vergers,  has  given  us  of  tlie  open- 
ing of  this  I'iiinted  tomi',  1  must  give  in 
his  own  words. 

' '  J'ai  decrit  ailleurs  I'impression  que  me 
fit  eprouver  le  .sijectacle  dont  nous  fumes 
frappes,  lorsqu'au  dernier  coup  de  pic  ■  la 
l>ierre  qui  fermait  I'eutree  de  la  ciypte 
ceda,  et  que  la  lumiere  de  nos  torches  vint 
eclairer  des  voiites  dont  rien,  depuis  plus 
de  vingt  siecles,  n'avait  trouble  Tobscurite 
ou  le  silence.  Tout  y  etiiit  encore  dans  le 
meme  etat  qu"au  jour  ou  Ton  en  avait 
mur^  I'entree,  et  I'antique  Etrurie  nous 
appai-aissait  comme  aux  temps  de  sa 
splendeui".  Sur  leiu^s  couches  fundraires, 
des  guerriers,  recouverts  de  leurs  armures, 
•semblaient  se  reposer  des  combats  qu'ils 
avaient  livi-es  aux  Iloniains  ou  a  nos 
ancetres  les  Gaulois.  Foiines,  vetenients, 
^toffes,  couleurs,  furent  apparents  ijen- 
dant  quelques  minutes,  puis  tout  s'evanouit 


a  mcsurc  que  Tair  extcrieur  penotrait  dans 
la  crypte,  oil  nos  flambeaux  vacillants 
menacaient  d'abord  de  s'eteindre.  Ce  fut 
una  evocation  du  jjas.se  qui  n'eut  pas  meme 
la  duree  d'un  songe,  et  disparut  comme 
pour  nous  punir  de  notre  temeraire 
curiosite. 

Pendant  que  ces  freles  deijouilles  tom- 
baient  en  poussiei-e  au  cont;»ct  de  I'air, 
I'atmo.sphere  devenait  plus  transparente. 
Xous  nous  vimes  alors  entour^s  d'une  autre 
population  gucrriere  due  aux  artistes  de 
rKtnirie.  Des  peintures  murales  omaient 
la  cryi)te  dans  tuiit  son  perimetre  et  sem- 
blaient s'animer  aux  reflets  de  nos  torches. 
Bientot  elles  attircreut  toute  mon  attention, 
car  elles  me  semblaient  la  part  plus  belle 
de  notre  decouvert^.  D'un  cote  les  pein- 
tures se  rapportaiont  aux  mythes  de  la 
Grece,  et  les  noms  grecs  inscrits  en 
caracteres  ^trusques  ne  lais.saient  aucune 
incertitude  sur  le  sujet  ;  les  poeme.s 
d'HomJire  I'avaient  insjiire.  J'avais  sous 
les  yeuxl'un  des  drames  les  plus  sanglants 
de  I'lliadf,  le  sacrifice  que  fait  Achille  des 
prisonniers  troyens  sur  le  tombeau  de 
Patrocle.  Passons  a  la  fresque  qui  faisait 
jiendant,  et  qui  n'avait  plus  rien  de  la 
Grece,  si  ce  n'est  Fart  avance,  I'etude  du 
nu,  le  modele,  la  saillie  des  muscles, 
I'expression  des  figures  animees  i)ar  des 
passions  violentes,  I'habilete  enfin  avec 
laquelle  etaient  rendus  les  eflfets  de 
lumiere,  les  ombres  et  les  demi-teintes. 
Quant  au  sujet,  il  etait  evidemment 
national  ;  la  forme  tout  etrusque  des  noms 
inscrits  au-dessus  de  chaque  i)ersonnage  Ic 
demontrait  suffisument. " 


ETRUSCiN    STKLA,    BOLoGN'A    MUSF.UM. 


CHAPTER    LXIV. 

BOLOGr'SA—FELSIX. I ,   JiOXOXIA. 

D'ltalia  I'antico 
Prcgio,  e  I'opra  che  giova. — Filicaja. 

Iiuus  in  viscera  telluris,  et  iu  seile  IMaiiiuiu  opes  quajrimus. — Plin'.  Nat.  Hist. 

The  -wide  extent  of  the  Etruscan  doniinion  in  Italy  1ms  alrcad}' 
Leen  mentioned — that  at  one  period  it  comprised  almost  all  the 
entire  peninsula,  stretching  northward  to  the  Alps,  eastward  to  the 
Adriatic,  and  southward  to  the  plains  of  Campania  and  the  Gulf  of 
Salerno.  But  in  tliis  work  I  have  hitherto  confined  my  attention 
to  Etruria  Proper,  to  the  country  lying  between  the  Apennines,  the 
Tiber,  and  the  sea,  and  have  not  transgressed  those  limits,  save 
in  treating  of  Eiden;e,  ''the  Utc  dc pont  of  Etruria"  on  tlie  Tiber, 
and  of  Home,  also  at  one  time  an  Etruscan  city.  To  treat  of  the 
other  two  great  regions  of  P]truria,  Circumpadana  and  Campaniana, 
would  swell  this  work  far  beyond  its  proper  limits,  yet  so  many 
discoveries  of  Etruscan  anti(j[uities  have  been  made  within  and 


510  BOLOGNA.  [CHAP.  Lxiv. 

around  Bologna,  since  the  publication  of  my  former  edition,  and 
so  much  interest  has  been  excited  by  those  discoveries,  that  my 
readers  will  pardon  me  for  requesting  them  to  cross  the 
Apennines  with  me  to  the  city  of  arcades  and  leaning  towers,  of 
learned  ladies  and  savoury  sausages. 

That  Bologna  represents  an  Etruscan  city  is  not  to  be  ques- 
tioned. The  name  by  which  it  was  originally  known — Felsina — 
is  so  purely  Etruscan,  that  we  do  not  require  the  testimony  of 
Pliny  to  that  effect — "Bononia,  Felsina  vocitata,  cum  princeps 
Etrurire  esset.'"  It  is  the  very  name  Avhich  A'olsinii  bore  in 
Etruscan  times,  and  Felsina  was  probably  colonised  from  that 
city."  "When  Pliny  designates  it  as  the  chief  city  of  Etruria,  he 
must  be  understood  as  referring  to  the  northern  and  trans-Apen- 
nine  division  of  that  land  ;  Cato  also  calls  it  the  metropolis  of  that 
region,  and  records  its  fomidation  by  an  Etruscan  king,'^  whom  we 
leani  from  other  sources  to  have  been  Ocnus  or  Aucnus,  brother 
or  son  of  Auletes,  the  founder  of  Perusia.*  The  Etruscans  were 
driven  out  by  the  Boian  Gauls,  in  the  fourth  century  b.c.  but  the 
city  retained  its  original  name.  It  was  taken  by  the  Pomans  in  the 
3-ear  558  (19G  u.c.),'^  and  colonised  by  them  seven  years  later,  when 
it  is  first  mentioned  under  its  Latin  apjiellation  of  Bononia.'' 

It  is  universally  believed  at  Bologna  that  the  city  occupies  the 
site  not  only  of  Roman  Bononia,  but  also  of  Etruscan  Felsina  ; 
yet  an}'  one  acquainted  with  the  sites  of  Etiiiscan  cities  on  the 
other  side  of  the  Apennmes,  will  find  it  difficult  to  accept  tbis 
doctrine,  and  to  believe  that  the  founder  of  the  Etruscan  city 
would  have  selected  a  position  in  the  jilain,  strengthened  by  no 
cliffs,  or  other  natural  advantages,  when  immediately  behind  it 
rises  a  range  of  steep  heights,  broken  at  intervals  by  deep  clefts  or 
hollows,  and  presenting  a  choice  of  sites,  any  one  of  which,  by  the 
addition  of  foilifications,  such  as  the  Etiiiscans  were  wont  to  con- 
struct, might  have  been  made  impregnable  in  tliose  days.  To  judge 
from  the  analogy  of  other  sites  of  this  anti(|uity,  the  most  probable 
position  ajipears  to  be  on  the  extremitv  of  the  range  to  the  north- 
west, on  the  hill  called  ]Monte  della  Guardia,  which  overhangs  the 
Peno,  where  tliat  river  issues  from  its  mountain-gorge,  and  whose 
slope  is  now  covered  with  a  long  line  of  arcades  leading  from  the 

*  Plin.  ^'.  H.  III.  20.  X.  198.  Sen-ius  adds  that  the  city  he 
^  Vide  supra,  p.  20.  Cf.  Liv.  V.  .33.  built  was  "  Cesena,  -which  is  now  called 
'  Cato,  de  Originibus.     Virgil,  Jiowever,       IJononia,"  but  Pliny  (loc.  cit. )  speaks  of 

claims  the   metropolitan    honour  for   his       Cesena  and  Felsina  as  separate  towns, 
native  city  of  Mantua.     Mn.  X.  203.  '  Liv.  XXXIII.  37. 

*  Sil.    ital.   VIII.   COl  ;   Sen-,   ad  Jin.  «  Liv.  XXXVII.  57  :  V.  Paterc.  I.  15. 


CHAP.  Lxiv.]      EOLOGNA  NOT  THE  SITE  OF  EELSINA. 


511 


city-gate  to  the  slirine  of  La  Madonna  cli  San  Luca  which  crests 
its  smnniit.  In  tlie  early  summer  of  1877  1  revisited  Bologna 
with  the  express  pmpose  of  ascertaining,  if  possihle,  by  a  careful 
inspection  of  the  ground,  on  which  of  the  four  or  five  heights 
which  overliang  the  city,  Felsina  must  have  stood.  I  failed, 
through  imforeseen  difficulties,  to  determine  the  site  ;^  yet  my 
persuasion  that  the  Etruscan  city  occupied  a  position  somewhere 
on  that  range,  is  not  in  the  least  diminished;  and  I  feel  confident 
that  if  tlie  precise  site  is  ever  discovered,  it  will  be  at  some  eleva- 
tion above  Bologna.  That  an  ancient  town  in  such  a  position 
should  have  had  its  necropolis  in  the  plain  beneath,  is  natural 
enough,  there  being  no  lack  of  precedents  to  that  effect,  unless 
the  i)lain  were  low  and  swamp}',  which  at  the  very  base  of  the  hills 
is  seldom  the  case,  and  is  certainly  not  in  this  instance. 

At  the  risk  of  giving  offence  to  all  the  antiquaries  of  Bologna,  I 
must  record  my  firm  persuasion  that  that  city  occupies  the  site  of 
Roman  Bononia,  but  not  of  Etruscan  Felsina;  although  I  do  not 
doubt  that  the  ancient  cemeteries  recentlv  discovered  within  the 


"^  The  difficulties  I  encountered  were 
twofold.  The  crest  of  every  height  in  the 
range  commanding  the  town,  which  was 
wide  enough  and  level  enough  to  have 
accommodated  a  city  such  as  Felsina  must 
have  been,  is  now  occupied  by  a  fort,  which 
in  no  case  was  I  permitted  to  enter.  This 
is  a  difficulty  which  a  native  might  pi'o- 
bably  overcome,  but  a  foreigner  hardlj'. 
Then  the  soil  of  the  entire  range  is  a  loose 
inarl,  which  is  well  known  to  be  liable  to 
shift  its  surface  in  the  coui-se  of  ages,  so 
that  if  the  city  occupied  a  prominent 
lieight,  it  might  be  denuded  of  all  traces  of 
ancient  habitation,  and  if  it  stood  on  lower 
ground,  might  have  them  covered  up  by  the 
soil  waslied  down  from  above.  I  have  experi- 
enced the  movable  character  of  such  a  soil 
in  my  excavations  in  the  Greek  cemeteries 
of  Sicily.  Non-existence  cannot  in  such  a 
case  be  logically  deduced  from  non-appear- 
ance. Remains  of  the  ancient  walls  are 
not  likely  to  exi.st,  for  their  demolition  for 
building  purposes  in  the  course  of  so  many 
ages  and  on  a  site  wliicli  has  always  re- 
tained its  poi)ulation,  is  easily  explained  ; 
especially  in  a  case  like  this,  where  the 
blocks  must  have  l)een  brought  from  a  dis- 
tance, tiiere  being  no  local  rock  fit  for  the 
purpose ;  nothing  but  here  and  there  a 
stratum  of  'jijpium. 


Next  to  the  Monte  della  Guardia,  the 
most  likely  site  for  Felsina  appeared  to  me 
to  be  the  height  now  occupied  by  the  Villa 
Ronzauo,  belonging  to  Count  Gozzadini, 
where  a  large  portion  of  the  level  summit 
is  now  occupied  by  a  foi-tre.ss.  In  1818 
a  number  of  ancient  bronzes  were  disin- 
terred on  the  northern  slope  of  this  height, 
and  fragments  of  Etruscan  black  pottery 
varnished,  and  also  of  lioman  ware,  have 
more  recently  been  brought  to  light  on  the 
summit,  "  suggesting  a  succession  of  in- 
habitants at  various  remote  epoclis  on  this 
plateau,  whence  the  eye  wanders  over  an 
immense  horizon."  The  bronzes  comprised 
four  hoi-se-bits,  a  double-edged  sword,  a 
knife,  massive  fihuke  and  hea^-y  rings, 
l^erhaps  belonging  to  liarness,  a  disk, 
thought  to  be  a  jyJiahra,  or  horse-ornament, 
with  other  articles,  many  similar  to  those 
feund  at  Villanova,  and  therefore  of  high 
antiquity.  Gozzadini,  Mors  de  Cheval 
Italiques  de  llonzano,  p.  [K  On  the  crest 
of  the  next  height  tn  the  south,  in  the 
grounds  of  the  Villa  Ravardin,  I  observed 
a  number  of  rude  slabs  of  yellow  sandstone, 
like  that  of  the  stcia;  from  La  Oertosa,  which 
seemed  to  have  boen  recently  <listurbed, 
and  here  I  picked  up  some  fragments  of 
early  pottery,  and  a  portion  of  a  sword-bladc 
of  bronze. 


512  BOLOGXA.  [chap.  lxiv. 

walls,  and  on  various  spots  around  tliem,  either  formed  part  of 
the  great  necropolis  of  Felsina,  or  belonged  to  the  villages  in  its 
neighbourhood. 

In  treating  of  the  excavations  in  this  necropolis  and  describing 
their  fruits,  I  should  premise  that  Bologna  has  been  most  fortunate 
in  having  for  explorers  of  her  Etruscan  remains  two  such  men  as 
the  Count  Giovanni  Gozzadini,  and  the  Cavaliere  Antonio  Zannoni, 
who  have  not  onh'  probed  her  cemeteries  to  the  bottom,  but 
have  bestowed  untiring  study  and  research  on  the  fruits  of  their 
labours,  and  have  given  minute  and  carefully  detailed  accounts 
of  their  discoveries  to  the  world.  No  Etruscan  cemetery  on 
the  other  side  of  the  Apennines  can  boast  of  such  a  descriptive 
literatiu'e.  But  this  very  cinharras  de  rlchcsses  renders  it  im- 
possible to  do  justice  to  the  subject  within  the  limits  of  a  chapter. 
Even  Captain  Burton,  who  has  devoted  an  entire  volume  to  it,  in 
which  he  has  displayed  learning,  wit,  and  acumen,  can  hardly 
be  said  to  have  given  such  an  account  of  these  excavations,  as  Avill 
satisfy  the  antiquarian  inquirer.*^  The  sketch  I  can  offer  is  still 
more  slight  and  imperfect.  Those  who  would  have  a  complete 
picture  must  consult  the  elaborate  publications  of  these  illustrious 
Bolognese  gentlemen. 

I  must  take  this  opportunity  of  calling  the  attention  of  the 
British  public  to  the  beautiful  work  in  folio  Avliich  the  Cavaliere 
Zannoni  has  now  in  the  press,  descriptive  of  his  excavations  and 
of  the  antiquities  of  La  Certosa,  and  illustrated  by  150  photo- 
graphs. It  is  appearing  in  25  numbers,  of  which  several  are 
already  published,  at  10  Italian  lire  the  number. 

YiT.LAXOVA. 

The  ancient  cemetery  that  was  first  brought  to  light  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Bologna,  was  that  of  Yillanova,  which  lies 
about  five  miles  to  the  E.S.E.  of  the  cit}'  near  the  Idice  torrent. 
This  is  also  the  most  primitive,  and  in  some  respects  the  most 
interesting  of  all.  In  May,  1853,  a  pot  containing  burnt  bones 
was  discovered  on  the  estate  of  Count  Giovanni  Gozzadini  at 
Yillanova.  The  Count,  suspecting  that  this  was  not  an  isolated 
instance  of  sepulture,  instantly  commenced  excavations  on  the 
site,  and  continued  his  operations  for  two  years,  until  he  had 
completely  exhausted  the  cemetery.  He  conducted  these  ex- 
■cavations   in  a   spirit  Avhich  unfortunately  has  been  too  rarely 

^  "  Etruscan  Bologna,  a  Stiuly,"  by  Richard  F.  Burton.     London,  1876. 


CHAP.  Lxiv.]         TEE    CEMETERY    AT    YILLAXOVA.  513 

applied  to  such  researches,  superintending  them  in  person,  as- 
sisted b}'  his  Lid}',  whose  zeal  was  not  inferior  to  his  own,  care- 
fully noting  every  object  with  its  peculiarities  of  form,  decoration, 
or  position,  and  setting  an  example  which  it  is  to  be  hoped  will 
be  followed  by  all  future  explorers  of  ancient  sites.  He  was  most 
fortunate  in  one  respect.  The  tombs  he  opened  on  this  site  were 
all  exactly  in  the  same  state  in  which  they  were  left,  when,  to  use 
his  own  words,  "the  cctcrnum  rale  I  was  pronounced."  This  was 
fortunate  also  for  antiquarian  science,  for  the  liistor}'-  of  the 
people  here  interred  is  written  only  in  their  sepulchres. 

The  cemeter}'  was  of  very  limited  extent,  about  80  yards  long 
from  E.  to  W.,  and  30  from  N.  to  S.  It  contained  193  sepul- 
chres, lying  a  yard  or  more  apart,  and  from  1  to  4i  feet  below 
the  surface.  The  western  boundary  of  this  area  was  marked  by 
a  conical  stone  which  rose  above  the  level  of  the  tombs.  Six  of 
these,  larger  and  more  important  than  the  others,  and  differing  in 
form,  probabl}'  the  sepulchres  of  the  local  aristocracy,  were  sepa- 
rated from  the  rest  b}''  an  open  space,  traversed  by  a  raised  path- 
way' of  stones  mixed  with  charcoal.  The  other  tombs  were  of 
four  descriptions.  Some  were  composed  of  rude  slabs,  forming 
a  sort  of  chest  or  coffin,  surrounded  and  covered  by  small  stones, 
laid  together  without  cement ;  others  were  of  similar  construc- 
tion, but  without  the  pebbles ;  others  again  were  pits,  either 
rectangular  or  cylindrical,  lined  with  similar  small  stones,  and 
from  30  inches  to  5  feet  in  depth;  while  the  greater  number 
were  simple  pits  or  graves  sunk  in  the  earth.  The  number  of 
each  description  was  as  follows  : — 

Tombs  constructed  of  slabs 2\ 

„      constructed  of  slabs  and  covered  witb  pebbles       .     .  I'S 

„      lined  with  small  stones 21 

„      sunk  in  the  earth 123 

Total 193 

Of  the  six  aristocratic  tombs,  four  were  nearly  9  feet  square, 
and  about  4i  feet  high,  constructed  of  small  stones  Avithout 
cement,  with  roofs  formed  of  the  same  materials,  but  Avhich  had 
sunk  in  the  centre  and  crushed  the  furniture  they  contained. 

Foiu'teen  of  the  tombs  in  this  cemeter}'  contained  skeletons, 
all  laid  with  their  feet  to  the  east,  and  most  of  them  with  their 
hands  joined  on  their  bodies,  in  the  old  Egyptian  fashion.  A 
few  were  doubled  up  in  a  sitting  posture,  \\ke  the  mummies  of 
Peru  and  Brazil.  These  body-tombs  were  not  separate  from  the 
others,  but  mixed  indifferently  with  them.     Similar  objects  were 


514  BOLOGXA.  [chap.  lxiv. 

found  in  tombs  of  both  descriptions,  but  more  abundantly  in 
those  -with  burnt  bones.  In  these  hitter  tombs  there  was  alwaj's 
one  hirge  pot  with  the  remams  of  the  deceased,  and  almost 
invariably  it  had  but  a  single  handle  ;  a  very  few  which  were 
formed  with  two  handles,  had  always  one  of  them  broken  before  the 
vase  was  placed  in  the  tomb,  resembhug  in  this  respect  the  earliest 
cinerary  pots  found  at  C'hiusi  and  Sarteiino.'-*  They  were  of  black 
or  red  clay,  very  rudely  ornamented,  all  impeifecth'  burnt,  and  con- 
sequently porous,  although  this  porosity  may  in  some  instances  be 
owing  to  the  decomposition  of  the  glaze  through  exposure  to  the 
damp  for  so  many  centuries.  Every  pot  contained  bm'nt  bones, 
not  ashes,  and  was  covered  with  a  one-handled  cup  inverted,  or 
with  a  disk  of  terra-cotta.  Most  of  these  ossuary  pots  were 
lound  standing  upright,  many  in  a  horizontal  i)osition,  and  a  few 
were  laid  diagonally.  They  never  stood  in  the  centre  of  the 
grave,  but  always  towards  the  east  side  of  it.  Around  the  pots 
the  pit  was  filled  with  the  ashes  and  charcoal  of  the  pyre,  among 
which  fragments  of  burnt  bone,  the  "nigra  fa  villa  "  of  TibuUus, 
showed  the  combustion  to  be  incomplete.  The  liomans  in  their 
cinerary  lU'us  always  mixed  bones  and  ashes  together ;  these 
contained  fragments  of  bones  alone.  Among  these  remains  were 
found  many  objects  of  terra-cotta,  bronze,  iron,  glass  and  amber; 
sometimes  mixed  with  bones  of  animals — oxen,  sheep,  pigs — and 
with  eggshells  ;  evidently  the  remains  of  the  funeral  feast. 

The  cinerary,  or  rather  ossuary  pot,  was  always  accompanied 
by  accessor}-  pots  of  various  forms,  in  some  instances  formmg  a 
confused  heap,  the  larger  containing  several  of  the  smaller.  As 
man}'  as  forty  have  been  found  in  one  tomb.  None  painted,  for 
this  Avare  is  supposed  to  be  prior  to  the  earliest  painted  pottery 
of  Etruria,  and  nut  a  trace  of  Greek  art  was  here  visible.  All 
were  of  coarse  clay,  red  or  black,  yet  often  of  elegant  forms,  as  a 
visit  to  the  Count's  collection  will  attest.  The  ossuary  pots  are 
very  like  one  another,  red  and  without  ornament ;  save  three, 
Avhich  have  a  peculiar  form  like  that  of  certain  vases  from 
the  Alban  ]Mount,  now  in  the  Gregorian  ]Museum.  They  have 
but  one  handle,  and  are  decorated  with  meanders,  concentric 
circles,  chevrons,  and  sei'pentine  lines,  scratched  or  stamped  on 
the  clay  when  soft.  At  a  later  period  rows  of  geese  and  of" 
primitive  human  figures  were  introduced,  alternating  with  geo- 
metrical patterns.  The  smaller  vases  are  generally  of  more 
elegant   shapes,   and    of  much   lighter  and  finer   clay   than    the- 

'   Ut  sujjra,  pp.  336,  365. 


CHAP.  Lxiv.]        COUNT    GOZZADINI'S    COLLECTION.  515 

ossuaries.  A  few  of  them  are  of  the  form  of  dice-boxes,  cylindri- 
cal with  a  bottom  half-way  up,  so  as  to  form  a  double  cup — which 
Count  Goz/.adini  takes  to  be  the  hirras  aixfliLnv-nekkov  of  Homer, 
founding  his  opinion  on  the  statement  of  Aristotle,  who  describes 
it  of  tliis  form,  in  illustrating  the  cells  of  a  bee-hive.^ 

Of  terra-cotta  Avere  also  the  Avhorls,  or  pear-shaped  pieces  of 
clay,  pierced  with  a  hole  perpendicularly,  of  which  many  were 
sometimes  found  in  the  same  tomb.  Count  Gozzadini  takes  them 
to  be  little  weights  attached  to  garments  to  make  them  hang 
properly,  and  to  have  belonged  to  the  robes  of  the  deceased  which 
had  been  burnt  on  the  P3're.  Sucli  weights,  or  tassels,  are  often 
represented  in  ancient  monuments." 

There  were  also  numerous  little  cylinders  of  terra-cotta,  with 
button-formed  heads  resembling  dumb-bells  iji  miniature,  of  which 
be  found  many  in  the  same  tomb.  These  are  not  novelties,  having 
been  discovered  in  abundance  in  the  Isis  tomb  at  Yulci,  and 
other  early  Etruscan  sepulchres,  but  the  use  and  meaning  of  them 
Las  not  j'et  been  determined. 

.Bronze  and  iron  were  both  found  at  A'illanova,  but  the  former 
much  more  abundantly  than  the  latter,  which  induces  the  Count 
to  refer  this  cemetery  to  the  time  of  "  the  first  epoch  of  iron." 

Of  the  (cs  rude  nine  examples  were  found ;  of  later  money  none. 
Numerous  S2:)ecimens  of  JibaUe  in  bronze  were  brought  to  light, 
sometimes  incasing  amber,  or  a  blue  and  yellow  silicious  paste, 
like  glass.  As  many  as  ihivtyfih tdce  in  one  tomb  seemed  to  show 
that  the  relatives  sometimes  cast  their  robes  on  the  funeral  pyre. 
In  one  instance  the  beads  of  the  fibula  had  been  fused  together 
by  the  heat. 

Hair-pins  were  also  abundant ;  used  by  the  Etruscan  women, 
as  well  as  by  those  of  E.ome'^  to  build  the  hair  into  a  tall  cone, 
which  was  covered  with  a  cap  or  veil,  and  called  a  tutulus. 

Of  bracelets  he  found  twenty-six — some  of  Avhicli  seemed  to 
have  been  worn  by  men,  and  some  by  women.  Two  were  of  iron, 
the  rest  of  bronze. 

There  were  also  many  globules,  or  beads  of  bronze,  wliidi  the 
Count  took  to  be  the  weights  attached  to  dresses,  as  already 
mentioned,  such  weights  being  alluded  to  by  Horace : — '^ 

'  Ai-istot.  Dc  Hist.  Aniui.  IX.  40.     See  himself   believes  them  to  have  been  em- 

the  Appendix  to  the  Introduction  to  this  ploj-ed  as  oflTerings,  or  woi-shipped  as  idols, 

work  for  further  remarks  on  this  subject.  ^  Juven.  Sat.  VI.  502. 

-  The     editor     of      Scliliemann's     Troy  ■*  Ilor.  Ep.  I.  vi.  50.      A  hajipy  cxplana- 

(p.  40),  takes  the  similar  whorls  found  on  tion  of  a  jjassage  which  has  s;idly  puzzled 

that  site  to  be  spindles,  though  the  Doctor  scholars. 

L  L  2 


516  BOLOGNA.  [chap.  lxiv. 

"  i\Iei'cemur  ser\iim  qui  dictet  nomina,  Inevum 
Qui  fodiat  latus,  et  cogat  tra?is  j/ondcra  dextram 
I'orrigere." 

He  found  a  few  specimens  of  axes  in  bronze,  similar  to  those 
discovered  in  other  Etruscan  tombs,  and  also  two  axes  of  iron; 
knives  of  both  metals,  apparently  for  sacrificial  use,  some  of 
singular  forms,  resembling  a  guillotine  in  miniature,  and  numerous 
specimens  of  the  crescent-shaped  blades,  supposed  to  be  noracula 
or  razors,  which  abound  also  in  the  well-tombs  of  Cliiusi  and  its 
neighbourhood.^  Two  lance-heads  of  iron  were  the  sole  weapons 
brought  to  light  in  this  cemeter}-.  But  the  articles  which  have 
given  rise  to  most  discussion  as  to  their  use  and  purpose  were 
ten  plates  of  bronze,  shaped  like  a  hatchet  with  a  handle  attached 
above  for  suspension  and  occasionally  pierced  with  one  or  more 
holes,  square  or  oblong,  in  the  centre  of  the  plate.  They  were 
from  four  and  a  half  to  six  inches  high,  and  from  three  to  five 
and  a  half  Avide.  These  plates  were  invariably  found  accompanied 
by  a  bronze  mallet  with  a  knob  at  each  end,  as  if  for  striking  the 
plate,  and  in  fact,  when  so  applied,  it  produced  sonorous  sounds, 
leaving  little  doubt  that  it  was  a  musical  instrument  of  the  nature 
of  a  gong.  He  st^des  it  accordingly  a  tiittuDiahultiDi.  Zannoni, 
however,  disputes  this,  and  maintains  these  articles  to  be  personal 
ornaments,  probably  worn  on  the  bosom.  Eight  of  the  ten  plates 
were  broken  into  two  or  three  pieces,  Avhich  were  found  laid  one 
upon  the  other,  showing  the  breakage  to  have  been  intentional, 
and  in  obedience  to  some  custom  or  rite. 

He  found  several  little  implements  in  bronze,  formed  some- 
what like  spindles  with  a  slender  shaft,  topped  Avith  a  cap  of  the 
same.  I3y  the  learned  they  AA^ere  at  once  pronounced  to  be 
spindles ;  while  the  w^omen  Avho  spin  for  their  daih'  bread, 
declared  it  to  be  impossible  to  use  an  instrument  fitted  Avith  such 
a  head. 

One  solitary  idol  in  bronze,  apparently  representing  a  woman, 
Avith  a  pair  of  birds  on  her  head,  and  another  pair  on  her  hips, 
Avas  the  only  specimen  of  plastic  art,  and  Ave  maA'  add  the  only 
jn-oof  of  religious  worship,  brought  to  light  in  this  most  primitive 
necropolis. 

The  articles  here  described,  together  Avith  many  others  of  great 
interest  from  other  ancient  cemeteries  in  this  district,  are  carefully 
preserA'ed  by  the  Count  Go/zadini  in  his  palace  at  Bologna. 

^  Gozzadini  cites  I\Iartial,  (XI.  cp.  58),  proof  of  these  crescent-shaped  knives  being 
and  Columella   (de  11.  II.  XII.  p.   oG)  in       razors. 


CHAP.  Lxiv.]       THE    CEMETERY    AT    LA    CERTOSA.  517 

Count  Gozzadini  ascribes  the  tombs  of  Yillanova  to  the 
Etiiiscans  of  the  earliest  times,  of  tlie  first  age  of  iron,  prior  to 
the  foundation  of  liome.  Brizio  attributes  them  to  the  Umbri, 
others  to  the  Pelasgi,  or  even  to  the  Boian  Gauls,  but  the  general 
opinion  of  antiquaries  leans  to  their  early  Etruscan  origin." 
This  view  is  supposed  to  have  received  confirmation  by  the  sub- 
sequent discover}',  at  Chiusi  and  Sarteano,  of  tombs  of  similar 
formation,  containing  articles  of  the  same  primitive  character,  in 
corresponding  positions,  and  often  precisel}'  alike  in  every  respects 
The  Etruscan  origin  of  these  early  tombs  is  nevertheless  open  to 
doubt. 

La  Certosa. 

Chief  of  the  cemeteries  of  Bologna  is  that  of  La  Certosa. 
That  of  Yillanova,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  town,  has  the 
advantage  in  point  of  antiquity,  as  well  as  in  piioiity  of  dis- 
covery, but  La  Certosa  has  yielded  more  important  and  more 
characteristic  Avorks  of  Etruscan  art,  which  are  now  exhibited  in 
the  Museo  Civico  of  Bologna. 

The  Certosa  lies  to  the  west  of  the  city,  about  one  mile  from 
the  gate  of  8.  Isaia,  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  of  the  ^Madonna  di 
San  Luca.  From  the  beginning  of  this  century  La  Certosa  has 
served  as  the  Campo  Santo  of  the  Bolognese ;  and  here  beneath 
the  majestic  church,  beneath  the  loft}--  Campanile,  and  the 
spacious  cloisters  of  the  Carthusian  convent,  lie  the  remains  of 
their  Etruscan  forefathers,  separated  from  them  by  more  than 
twenty  centuries,  though  by  a  few  feet  only  of  earth.  This 
discover}'  was  made  in  August  18G9,  when  in  digging  a  tomb  in 
the  cloisters,  a  bronze  clsta  was  revealed,  lying  in  a  well-like 
pit,  lined  with  small  stones  and  covered  with  a  rude  slab.  As 
the  foot  of  an  ox  ploughing  the  land  around  Canino  was  the 
means  of  bringing  to  light  the  vast  Etniscan  cemeteiy  of  Vulci, 
so  this  discoveiy  was  the  result  of  an  accident ;  but  the  Cavaliere 
Antonio  Zannoni,  Chief  Engineer  and  Architect  to  the  Munici- 
pality of  Bologna,  at  once  instinctively  divined  that  this  was  the 
site  of  the  Etruscan  necropolis,  and  on  ascertaining  that  in  1835 

^  Drs.    Henzen  and  Forchbammer  took  and  its  contents  i»  in  great  part  taken  from 

them  to  be  decidedly  Etruscan.     So  also  a  jiamphlet  published  by  the  Count  Gozza- 

Professors    Minervini    and    Fabretti,    and  dini  at  Bologna,  1870,  entitled  "  La  Xecro- 

Count  Conestabile,  the  latter  assigning  to  pole  de  Yillanova,"  for  a  copy  of  which  I 

them   an   anticjuity   of   not  less  than  ten  am  indebted  to  his  courtesy, 
centuries,   B.C.     So^Ta   due  dischi  p.    07.  '    1 1  sup-a,  i»p.  33'J,  341,  nOo. 

The  foregoing  description  of  this  necrojiolis 


516  BOLOGNA.  [chap.  lxiv. 

some  fragments  of  painted  vases  and  of  bronzes  had  been  dis- 
covered on  this  spot,  he  determined  to  make  furtlier  researches, 
and  obtained  for  that  object  from  the  Corporation  the  munificent 
sum  of  fifty  francs  ! 

Between  December,  18G9,  and  Sei)tember,  1871,  he  opened 
.some  380  tombs.  These  difiered  from  those  on  p]truscan  sites 
on  the  other  side  of  the  Apennines,  inasmuch  as  they  were  not 
chambers  hollowed  in  the  rock,  or  structures  of  masonry,  but  were 
mere  holes  or  pits  in  the  earth,  in  which  the  corpse,  or  the 
cinerary  lu'n  was  laid,  with  the  usual  accessories,  and  then 
covered  in,  sometimes  with  a  slab,  sometimes  with  a  layer  of 
rubble.  The  exceptions  to  this  system  of  burial  were  a  dozen — 
two  being  pits  sunk  in  the  form  of  wells,  and  lined  with  small 
stones  without  cement,  like  the  tombs  of  Poggio  llenzo,  near 
Cliiusi,^  which  have  their  counterparts  also  in  the  neighbouring 
cemeteries  of  Yillanova  and  Marzabotto ;  and  ten  being  square 
boxes,  constructed  of  rude  slabs  uncemented,  and  heaped  over 
Avith  rubble.  In  the  other  cemeteries  around  Bologna  cremation 
appears  to  have  been  the  rule,  burial  the  exception ;  in  that  of 
Yillanova  the  interments  did  not  amount  to  eight  jier  cent.  ;  at 
Marzabotto  they  were  also  comparatively  few  ;  but  at  La  Ceiiosa 
the  proportions  were  reversed — out  of  365  tombs,  250  contained 
bodies,  and  115  burnt  bones.  The  better  class  appear  to  have 
been  buried  in  wooden  cofiins,  for  in  their  graves  were  found 
many  long  and  stout  nails,  which  must  have  served  to  fasten  the 
boards  together.  Over  some  of  the  graves  large  upright  stehc,  or 
slabs  of  stone,  sometimes  plain,  sometimes  sculptured,  but  never 
inscribed,  marked  the  site  of  the  sepulchre. 

There  was  no  systematic  arrangement  of  these  tombs,  but 
Sig.  Zannoni  remarked  that  they  lay  in  four  groups,  separated  bj'' 
an  ancient  road  which  ran  from  the  city  westward.  He  furtlier 
noticed  that  the  richest  sepulchres  fronted  this  road,  and  that  the 
rest  diminished  in  importance  as  they  receded  from  it.  The 
principal  tombs  also  always  laj'  at  the  gi"eatest  depth  below  the 
surface.  The  bodies  were  invariably  laid  with  their  feet  to  the 
east,  and  the  objects  buried  with  them  lay  always  at  the  left  side 
of  the  coi-pse.  The  ashes  were  inclosed  either  in  terra-cotta 
vases,  plain  or  painted,  or  in  cjdindrical  cistc  of  bronze ;  in  one 
instance,  in  a  marble  vase,  and  in  another,  in  a  beautiful  situla 
of  bronze,  now  the  glory  of  the  jNIuseo  Civico.  The  variet}--  of 
the  objects  interred  Avitli  the  dead  is  astonishing.     Vases  of  all 

s   Vide  supra,  pp.  336,  341. 


CHAP.  Lxiv.]  THE    CERTOSA    COLLECTION,    MU>!<:0    CIVICO.     519 

descriptions,  brown,  ash-coloured,  red,  wliite,  [)lain,  or  painted ; 
candelnhra ,  mirrors,  fihnlce,  and  numerous  objects  in  bronze 
of  domestic  and  culinary  use,  besides  necklaces,  earrings,  and 
other  articles  of  jewellery  and  luxury.  jNIost  are  of  purely 
national  art ;  some,  the  painted  vases  for  example,  are  importa- 
tions from  the  more  civilised  shores  of  Hellas ;  others  again 
exhibit  a  mixture  of  the  two  elements.  Some  betray  the  infancy 
of  culture  ;  others,  the  latest  days  of  Etruscan  independence  ;  in 
short  they  present  monumental  documents  of  tlie  civilisation  of 
Felsina  tlu'oughout  a  period  of  some  five  hundred  years. '^ 

MUSEO    CIVICO. 

The  antiquities  discovered  at  La  Certosa  are  exhibited  in  the 
Archiginnasio,  now  called  the  "  Museo  Civico." 

Passing  througli  several  chambers,  wliere  sundry'-  Avorks  of 
ancient  art  are  displayed,  and  notably  an  interesting  collection  of 
Egyptian,  Greek,  and  Eoman  antiquities,  made  b}'-  a  Signor  Pelagio 
Palagi,  and  presented  by  him  to  his  native  city,  you  reach  two 
rooms  containing  the  fruits  of  the  "  Scavi  della  Certosa." 

The  Stel.i]  ou  Tombstoxks. 

The  objects  that  first  strike  tlie  eye  on  entering  are  a  row  of 
tall  stche — slabs  of  calcareous  rock,  more  like  the  gravestones  in 
an  English  churchyard,  than  the  sepulchral  monuments  of 
Etruria  Proper,  from  five  to  seven  feet  high,  rounded  above, 
contracted  below,  and  resting  on  squared  bases,  with  one  or  both 
of  their  surfaces  adorned  with  reliefs.  Tliere  are  in  all  some 
twenty-five  of  these  slabs,  drawn  up  across  the  rooms,  and  along 
the  walls,  or  grouped  in  a  corner,  differing  sometimes  in  form, 
but  all  remarkable  as  utterly  unlike  the  stche  of  Etruria,  Greece, 
or  Ptome.  They  may  be  regarded,  indeed,  as  a  specialty  of  La 
Certosa.  At  Yillanova  not  one  was  discovered,  at  Marzabotto 
one  only,  and  one  also  within  the  walls  of  Bologna,  while  the 
excavations  at  La  Certosa  have  yielded  not  less  than  forty-five. 
We  will  describe  two  or  three  as  illustrations  of  the  rest. 

The  first  you  encounter  is  about  five  feet  high,  by  tlu-ee  feet 
six  inches  wide,  and  seven  inches  thick.  One  face  only  of  the 
slab  is  sculptured.  The  figures  are  separated  by  two  transverse 
bands  of  hatched  and  incised  lines,  into  three  compartments,  the 
■whole  being  inclosed  within  a  broad  wave-pattern   border.      In 

^  For  tlic  Cavalicre  Zannoni's  description       "Relazionc    sujjli     Foivi    delli     Ccrtos 
of    his  cxcavatious  in  this   cemeteiy  see       1871." 


520  BOLOGNA.  [chap.  lxiv. 

the  upjier  compartment,  beneath  a  Jidlx  on  the  keystone,  as  it 
were,  of  the  arched  monument,  a  serpent  is  engaged  in  combat 
with  a  hippocamp,  symbols  perhaps  of  the  powers  of  the  hind 
and  water — a  subject  Avhich  occurs  frequently  on  these  monu- 
ments. In  the  central  scene,  a  figure  in  a  short-sleeved  cliitou. 
sits  in  a  hir/a,  holding  an  umbrella  over  the  head  of  a  diminutive 
charioteer,  who  drives  a  spirited  pair  of  horses,  in  front  of  which 
runs  a  naked  youth,  who  tm-ns  his  head  to  see  how  the}-  go. 
This  subject  represents  the  passage  of  the  soul  to  the  unseen 
Avorld,  and  the  youth  is  probably  intended  for  the  infernal 
Mercury.  The  lower  part  of  the  stela  is  injured,  but  j-ou  can 
make  out  a  demon  with  open  wings  and  uphfted  hands,  about  to 
seize  a  draped  figm-e,  which  seems  endeavouring  to  escape.  The 
art  of  this  monument  is  rude,  j'et  not  so  archaic  as  that  of  the 
cubic  stelce  of  Chiusi  and  Perugia.  There  is  less  rigidity  and 
conventiouaUty,  and  more  nature  and  ease  in  the  human  figures, 
and  more  spirit  in  the  horses,  tlian  are  commonly  found  in  those 
early  monuments. 

The  next  stela  is  the  tallest  and  largest  of  these  tombstones, 
being  seven  feet  in  height  b}'  fom-  in  width.  It  is  sculptm'ed  on 
both  sides,  and  each  face  is  encircled  by  a  broad  wave-border 
Avith  a  helix  at  the  apex.  The  principal  face  shows  in  the  upper 
compartment  a  high-crested  hii)pocamp,  contending  with  a  marine 
centaur,  with  a  long  fish-tail.  The  scene  below  displays  a 
draped  figure  seated  in  a  higa,  holdmg  an  umbrella  over  his  own 
head,  while  a  diminutive  auriga  handles  the  reins,  and  Charun, 
with  a  pointed  iietasus,  runs  in  front  of  the  horses,  carrying  an 
inverted  torch  in  one  hand,  and  an  upright  oar  in  the  other. 
Over  all  hovers  a  demon,  or  it  may  be  Mercury,  for  he  has  wings 
to  his  feet  as  Avell  as  to  his  shoulders,  and  he  floats  over  the  higa, 
just  as  Nike  is  represented  hovering  over  the  quadriga  on  the 
reverse  of  the  coins  of  SjTacuse.  In  the  compartment  below 
this  are  five  figures,  some  naked,  some  draped,  whose  action  it  is 
not  easy  to  understand  ;  and  m  the  lowest  scene  a  number  of 
persons  are  approaching  a  seated  figure,  as  if  to  present  him 
with  the  ofi'erings  they  carry  in  their  baskets. 

The  upper  scene,  on  the  other  face  of  the  stela,  is  not  easil}' 
described,  for  the  surface  is  here  much  defaced  ;  but  you  can 
distinguish  a  nude  female  figure  bearing  a  large  rock  on  her 
head,  a  huge  bearded  snake,  and  an  altar  or  tomb.  In  the 
principal  compartment  is  a  higa  driven  at  full  gaUop  ;  in  that 
below  stand  two  draped  figures  in  conversation. 


CHAP.  Lxiv.]       THE    TOMBSTONES    WITH    EELIEFS.  521 

Round  the  edge  of  the  shib,  -which  is  about  a  foot  thick,  runs 
a  scroll  i">attern  in  relief,  "with  large  leaves  of  ivy. 

The  art  displayed  in  this  stela  is  still  archaic  ;  the  bodies  are 
represented  in  full,  though  the  heads  are  in  profile  ;  the  folds  of 
the  drapery  are  indicated  only  by  a  few  rude  lines ;  yet  the 
attitudes  and  movements  are  in  general  easy  and  natural,  and 
the  defects  seem  less  attributable  to  the  conventionalities  of  the 
jjeriod  than  to  the  incapacity  of  the  artist,  who  nevertheless 
ajipears  to  have  done  his  best  to  represent  nature. 

But  the  best  of  these  monuments  in  point  of  art  is  the  fourth 
in  this  row,  and  is  that  which  is  represented  in  the  woodcut  at 
the  head  of  this  chapter.  It  stands  six  feet  three  inches  in 
lieight,  and  bears  reliefs  on  both  fiices,  inclosed  by  a  broad 
meander  border.  On  the  side  represented  in  the  cut  there  is 
but  a  single  scene.  A  male  half-draped,  who  doubtless  repre- 
sents a  soul,  stands  shaking  hands  with  a  Charun,  or  winged 
genius.  Behind  him  a  tall  basket  rests  on  a  stand  or  altar. 
The  soul  seems  to  draw  back  and  shrmk  from  contact  with  the 
demon,  who  gras^DS  his  hand  too  firmly  to  allow  of  his  escape. 
The  pose  of  both  is  eas}'  and  natural,  especially  that  of  Charun, 
as  he  stands  with  one  hand  on  his  hip,  and  his  chlamys  hanging 
over  the  same  arm.  The  draper}'  of  the  soul  also  hangs  in 
natural  folds. 

The  other  fiice  of  the  monument  displays  three  subjects.  In 
the  upper  one  a  snake  and  hippocamp  are  fighting,  and  the  latter 
has  the  worst  of  it.  The  central  scene  shows  a  soul  in  a  higa, 
drawn  by  winged  horses,  led  by  a  Avinged  demon,  avIkj  runs  at 
their  head.  In  the  lowest  an  armed  man  on  foot  is  contending 
with  another  on  horseback.  The  horse  is  badl}^  drawn,  though 
the  man  sits  it  with  ease.  His  adversar}'-  stands  in  an  attitude  to 
repel  his  attack,  covering  his  bodv  with  his  shield  ;  yet  it  is 
difficult  to  accept  the  criticism  which  pronounces  this  group  to 
show  all  the  spirit  of  Greek  art.^  This  stela,  however,  ma}' 
safel}'  be  said  to  show  more  of  Hellenic  influence  in  its  design 
than  any  of  its  fellows. 

A  circular  slab  exhibits  the  usual  draped  soul  drawn  by  a  pair 
of  winged  horses  at  a  gallop — a  subject  often  repeated.  In  two 
instances  only  is  the  soul  represented  on  horseback. 

The  stelce  in  the  inner  room  are  mostl}'  of  inferior  art  and  interest. 
One  shows  a  woman  on  her  knees  making  offerings  to  the  inaiirs  of 
her  relative,  whose  bust  is  represented  resting  on  a  tomb.    .Vnother 

'  Lull,  Inst.  1S7-2,  p.  n)— Brizio. 


522  BOLOGNA.  [chap.  lxiv. 

exliibits  a  combat  between  a  man  and  a  Pegasus ;  and  on  the 
reverse,  some  musicians  seem  to  indicate  the  funeral  feast  or 
games.  Here  a  girl  is  ]ducking  a  branch  of  ivy  ;  there  a  man 
seated  holds  the  liand  of  a  woman  who  stands  before  liim.  One 
relief  displays  a  "  well-greaved  "  warrior,  with  spear  in  one  hand, 
and  crested  helmet  in  the  other  ;  liis  figure  shows  archaic  features, 
yet  is  hardly  so  jirimitive  as  the  warrior  in  the  Buonarroti  relief 
at  Florence,  to  which,  however,  it  bears  a  considerable  resemblance. 
Some  of  these  stehe  are  plain  pear-shaped  masses,  on  square 
bases,  with  rams'  heads  carved  at  the  angles,  and  festoons 
between  tliem.- 

TiiE  Cinerary  Urns. 

AVe  have  described  the  tombstones.  In  sundry  glass  cases  are 
preserved  the  tombs  and  their  contents,  just  as  they  were  opened 
— the  very  graves  over  which  the  stelce  were  set  up  in  memoriam 
■ — some  containing  skeletons,  others  cinerary  urns.  The  first 
case  as  j'ou  enter  displays  a  well-tomb  like  those  of  the  Poggio 
Renzo  at  Chiusi — a  small  pit,  some  two  feet  in  diameter  lined 
with  large  rounded  pebbles  without  cement.  In  it  stands  a  large 
kclchc,  holding  the  bones  of  the  deceased,  and  b}'  its  side  a  skyphos 
with  black  figures ;  the  Greek  potter}'  giving  a  clue  to  the  antiquity 
of  the  tomb.  In  the  next  two  cases  you  see  a  cinerary  urn  of 
bronze — a  cylindrical  cista  fourteen  inches  in  diameter — one  con- 
taining a  small  pot,  and  a  bronze  strigil ;  and  b}'  the  side  of  the 
other  lie  some  broken  vases,  with  an  (cs  rude.  Ciste  of  this 
description  are  corded  horizontall}-  with  repousse  bands ;  and  have 
two  short  handles,  but  no  lid,  being  covered  with  a  flat  stone. 
The}'  are  ver}'  characteristic  of  Felsina,  for  while  not  one  has  yet 
been  discovered  in  Etruria  Proper,  no  less  than  fortj'-five  have 
been  found  in  the  cemeteries  of  Bologna,  of  which  fourteen  are 
preserved  in  this  Museum.  Some  half  dozen  have  been  disin- 
terred on  other  sites  in  Northern  Etruria,  and  as  many  as 
twenty-four  in  ancient  cemeteries  north  of  the'Alps — in  France, 
Belgium,  Germany,  Poland,  and  Ilolstein.^  One  of  them  in 
this  museum,  probably  of  later  date,  has  plastic  decorations, 
for  it  rests  on  four  winged  feet,  on  each  of  wliich  a  warrior  is 
represented  reposing. 

-  The  HtclcB   in   this    ^Museum   are   dc-  Inonze  ash-chests,  see  the  ■work  of  Count 

scribed  in  detail  by  Signor  Brizio,  Bull.  G.    Gozzatlini,    Sugli  Scavi  Arnoaldi,  pp. 

Inst.,  1872,  pp.  16—23.  38-45,  Bologna,  1877.     Cf,  Zannoni,  Sulle 

^  For  further  details  of  these  singiilar  Ciste  a  cordoni  del  la  Certosa,  1873. 


CHAP.  Lxiv.]  BODIES    BURNT    AND    BURIED,  523 

'rilK    'J'i).Ml!S    AND    'I'lIKli;    OCCUPANTS. 

Other  j^lass  cases  contain  skeletons,  embedded  in  the  very 
earth  in  which  they  were  discovered,  still  wearinr^  the  ornaments 
with  whicli  they  were  decorated,  and  with  all  their  sepulchral 
iurniturc  around  them.  One  is  a  man  who  must  have  been  of  an 
extraordinary  height,  i'or  his  head  is  bent  to  one  side,  as  though 
his  coffin  had  been  too  short  for  his  body.  I  say  coffin,  though 
none  is  visible,  yet  it  is  clear  from  the  large  nails  found  around 
the  skeletons,  that  man}-  of  them  were  interred  in  wooden  cases, 
which  have  long  since  fallen  to  dust.  There  is  another  fine 
skeleton,  which  is  pronounced  by  Cav.  Zannoni  to  have  a  most 
beautiful  skull  of  the  Etruscan  tj'pe,  and  two  others  next  him, 
whose  crania  are  said  to  be  of  the  Umbrian  type.^  One  of  tliem, 
a  female,  grasps  the  (cs  rude  in  her  right  hand,  to  i)ay  Charun  for 
lier  passage  across  the  Styx,  while  a  necklace  of  amber  still 
hangs  from  her  neck.  There  is  another  group  of  three  adults, 
each  grasping  the  ces  rude,  and  retaining  the  hronzetihida,  whicli 
fastened  the  shrouds  around  them ;  their  skulls  are  said  to  betray 
the  Umbrian  type.  Another  skeleton  wears  three  armlets  of 
bronze,  two  on  the  left  arm,  one  on  the  right.  In  another  grave 
are  two  skeletons,  one  of  a  woman,  the  other  of  her  child,  scarcely'' 
eight  3'ears  old.  The  mother  holds  her  ces  rude  in  her  right 
hand,  and  a  Jihida  lies  under  her  chin ;  the  child  wears  an 
armlet  of  bronze,  with  some  amber  beads,  and  a  pendant  on  its 
bosom.  In  another  case  lies  a  young  child  with  an  ds  rude  and 
armlet.  A  third  child  has  ajihula  on  his  left  thigh,  and  a  little 
cup  with  some  eggshells  by  his  side.  In  every  case  there  are 
pots  of  various  descriptions  lying  with  the  skeleton,  and  on  the 
left  side ;  in  one  instance  onl}^  do  tliey  lie  at  its  feet. 

The  Situla. 

The  most  wonderful  cinerary'  urn  in  this  collection,  and  an 
article  in  its  wa}^  unique  and  unrivalled,  is  a  situla,  or  pail,  of 
bronze,  covered  with  reliefs.  It  is  but  a  small  pot,  barely  thirteen 
inches  high,  and  eleven  in  its  greatest  diameter ;  it  had  two 
handles,  but  tlie}^  are  now  gone,  and  double  volute  ornaments 
mark   the    places    they    occupied.      The    reliefs,    which    are    of 

■•  Zannoni,  Scavi  dclla   Certosa,  p.    21.  IJologna,  jip.  107-211),  but  for  tlic  satis- 

Thc   Cavaliere   does  not  explain  the   dis-  faction  of  ethnologists  and  craniologists  he 

tinctive   characteristics   of    Etruscan   and  has  filled  a  case  with  skulls  and  thigh- 

Urabrian  skulls  (for  which  consult  Burton's  bones,  from  his  diggings  at  La  Certosa. 


624  BOLOGXA.  [chap.  lxiv. 

rcjwussc-woik  and  sm-round  the  vase  in  four  bands,  are  of  such 
interest  that  I  ma}'  be  pardoned  for  describing  them  in  detaih 

The  uj^i^er  band  disphiys  a  procession  marching  to  the  left. 
It  is  headed  by  two  men  on  horseback,  wearmg  casques,  much 
resembhng  modern  hunting-caps,  and  each  carrying  over  his 
shoulder,  susi)ended  at  the  end  of  a  short  curved  pole,  one  of 
those  cm-ious  bell-shaped  plates  which  are  generally  taken  to  be 
tintinnahula.  Next  comes  a  large  bird  on  the  Aving,  so  common 
a  featm-e  on  Egyptian  monuments.  This  is  followed  by  five 
armed  men  bearing  oval  shields,  and  long  spears  pointed  to  the 
earth,  and  helmets  of  a  most  peculiar  form — a  casque  running 
up  to  a  point,  but  confined  b}'  three  large  circular  bosses  round 
the  brows,  bearing  more  resemblance  to  a  turban  than  to  any 
known  form  of  ancient  liead-dress.  So  much  on  one  half  of  this 
band.  On  the  other  half  march  eight  more  liopUtce,  four  beaiing 
oval,  four  circular  shields,  with  geometrical  figures  for  devices, 
all  wear  greaves  and  crested  helmets  like  the  Corinthian,  and  all 
carry  theu-  lances  point  downwards.  Their  accoutrements  seem 
to  mark  them  as  Greeks,  a  view  confirmed  b}'  their  well-formed 
features,  which  distinguish  them  from  the  other  figures.  They 
are  followed  by  four  unarmed  men,  wearing  caps  and  short 
tunics,  each  carrying  on  his  shoulder  a  long  pole  with  something 
like  a  tintinnahnlum  suspended  from  its  extremity. 

The  second  band  shows  a  solemn  sacrificial  procession  march- 
ing to  the  right.  In  the  van  walks  a  i^riest  leading  an  ox,  drawn 
to  the  life,  "over  whose  head  a  bird  is  fiying.  He  is  followed  by 
three  more  priests  in  long  robes,  carrying  pots  and  wearing 
long  canoe-shaped  jpetasi,  Hke  the  hats  worn  by  ^jriests  in  Spain, 
and  nowhere  else.  Then  come  three  women,  draped  to  the  feet, 
and  carrying  baskets  of  different  shapes  on  their  lieajds,  wliicli 
are  covered  with  their  mantles.  The  drapery  of  one,  as  also  of 
one  of  the  priests,  is  decorated  with  a  check  pattern.  Two  more 
priests,  clad  like  the  preceding,  follow,  bearing  between  them  a 
large  amphora,  suspended  from  a  pole  resting  on  their  shoulders. 
Next  come  two  gigantic  slaves,  bare-headed,  half- draped  with 
tunics  girt  about  their  middle,  and  with  broad  shoulders,  just  as 
slaves  are  represented  on  Egyptian  monuments,  carr3'ing  a  huge 
vase  of  Hitula  foiTn  by  its  handle.  They  are  followed  by  a 
similar  slave  pushing  a  ram  before  him ;  by  three  other  stately 
priests ;  by  three  more  women  bearing  each  a  pot  on  her  head  ; 
by  two  more  priests  in  long  robes,  one  with  a  situla  in  one  hand, 
and  a  tall  vase  like  an  alahastos,  slung  over  his  back ;  the  other 


CHAP.  Lxiv.]  THE    WONDERFUL    SITULA.  525 

oanyiiig  a  lunnber  of  long  spits  fastened  together  just  sueli  as 
are  preserved  in  the  Gregorian  Museum  ;  and  an  enormous  dog, 
above  which  is  a  star,  closes  the  procession. 

The  third  band  commences  with  two  oxen  driven  by  a  peasant 
in  short  tunic,  who  carries  his  plough  on  his  shoulder.  A  bird 
hovers  over  eacli  beast.  Another  peasant  is  dragging  the  carcass 
of  a  wild-boar  by  the  hind-legs,  while  a  vulture  or  crow  perches 
on  the  monster's  back.  Next  appears  a  large  hisidUum,  similar 
in  form  to  that  from  Amiternum,  now  in  the  Etruscan  Museum 
of  the  Capitol,  but  instead  of  a  mule's  head  at  each  end,  tliis 
terminates  in  lions'  heads,  from  whose  jaws  depends,  on  one  side 
a  hare,  on  the  other  a  man.  On  this  hisdUiun  sit  two  priests  in 
canoe-shaped  hats,  one  playing  the  lyre,  tlic  other  the  Pandean 
pipes.  Behind  them  and  over  the  hiselllum,  a  large  sitiila  is 
suspended,  and  on  each  arm  of  the  couch  stands  a  naked  boy, 
leaning  forward,  as  in  the  act  of  pitching  something  into  the 
situla.  A  large  amphora  rests  on  a  trii)od  hard  b}',  a  priest 
stands  on  each  side  of  it,  one  of  whom  is  drawing  wine  with  a 
ladle.  Next  come  two  slaves  wearing  low,  turban-like  caps, 
bearing  the  carcass  of  a  deer  suspended  from  a  pole  between 
them  ;  and  a  big  dog  walks  beneath  the  game,  looking  out  for 
his  share  of  the  feast.  Tlie  scene  terminates  witli  a  naked 
man  beating  a  wood,  and  endeavouring  to  drive  a  hare  into  a 
net. 

The  lowest  band  is  full  of  animals — lions,  wolves,  chimeras — 
all  with  open  mouths,  and  in  threatening  attitudes.'' 

This  wonderful  urn  was  found  full  of  burnt  bones,  and  covered 
with  a  stone  slab,  which  had  crushed  it  into  fragments,  but  thanks 
to  the  perseverance  of  the  Cavaliere  Zannoni,  it  has  been  restored 
to  its  original  form. 

"  This  situla,'"  says  Signor  E,  Brizio,  "is  the  most  important 
monument  of  national  art,  not  only  in  the  Museo  Civico  of 
Bologna,  but,  I  may  sa}',  in  any  other  museum  of  Etruscan 
antiquities.  The  art  is  pure,  primitive  Etruscan,  without  the 
remotest  idea  of  Greek  influence,  but  rather  in  certain  respects 
showing  an  affinity  with  Oriental  art.  I  do  not  hesitate  to  rej^eat 
that  there  has  not  yet  been  discovered  a  monument  of  higher 
importance,  as  regards  the  history,  religion,  and  art  of  Etruria 
than  this  situla."''     There  is  much  archaicism  in  the  forms  and 

*  These  reliefs  are  described  in  detail  by       lionour  of  Mars  ;  also  by  Brizio,  Bull.  Inst., 
Zannoni  (op.   cit.  pp.  11 — 13),  -vvlio  takes       1872,  pp.  23 — 26. 
them  to  represent  a  festive  procession  in  '^  Brizio,  op.  cit,  p.  23. 


526  BOLOGNA.  [chap.  lxiv. 

movements  of  tlie  liuinaii  figures,  although  the  animals  are 
generally  drawn  -with  more  freedom,  and  much  truth  to  nature. 
The  horses  are  full  of  spirit,  and  earrv  their  heads  and  tails  like 
Arahs.  The  care  and  delicacy  displayed  in  the  execution  are 
surjn'ising  ;  in  spite  of  the  diminutive  size  of  the  figures,  the 
details  are  most  elaborate  and  conscientiously  expressed.  The 
care  bestOAved  on  the  faces  is  esj)ecially  remarkable ;  the  profiles 
vary  greatly,  and  betray,  even  at  the  early  period  to  which  the 
monument  belongs,  that  tendency  to  individualism  and  realism, 
which  is  the  characteristic  featm^"e  of  Etruscan,  as  distinguished 
from  Hellenic  art.  Xo  trace  of  Greek  influence  being  here 
visible,  it  is  not  easy  to  assign  a  date  to  the  monument.  Count 
Conestabile  ascribes  it  to  the  third  centmy  of  Rome.  But  that 
is  the  date  of  the  earliest  Greek  vases  discovered  in  this  cemetery', 
and  we  may  fairly  presume  that  this  sittda  preceded  the  imjiorta- 
tion  of  such  vases,  or  it  would  show  some  traces  of  Hellenic 
influence.  I  would  rather  refer  it  to  the  former  half  of  the  sixth 
centmy  B.C.  As  it  was  foinid  in  a  simple  hole  in  the  earth,  alone, 
with  no  articles  of  pottery  or  bronze  around  it,  we  have  nothing 
but  the  art  of  the  monument  itself  to  guide  us  in  our  judgment 
as  to  its  antiquity. 

Far  inferior  to  this  wonderful  situla  in  interest,  yet  worth}'  of 
notice,  is  a  cylindrical  cista  of  bronze,  more  resembling  the 
elegant  ciste  of  Palestrina,  than  those  commonly  found  at  La 
Certosa,  having  bands  of  incised  ornaments  round  the  rim  and 
base,  reliefs  at  the  place  of  the  handles,  and  Bacchic  figures 
above  the  feet,  quite  Etruscan  in  character,  and  of  finished  art.^ 
To  the  same  artistic  period  belong  two  tall  candelahra  of  bronze, 
each  surmounted  by  a  figure,  in  one  case  Paris  drawing  his 
bow,  in  the  other  a  discobolus.  These  are  the  only  rejiresenta- 
tions  of  the  human  figure,  beyond  those  on  the  situla,  in  this  col- 
lection, for,  strange  to  say,  not  a  single  idol  in  metal  has  been 
discovered  in  this  necropolis.^ 

There  are  miiTors,  but  not  one  figured  ;  numerous  objects  and 
utensils  in  bronze  for  domestic  use,  besides  bracelets  and  fihuUc 
of  this  metal.  Of  iron  nails,  which  fastened  the  long-perished 
coffins,  there  is  a  multitude,  some  of  very  large  size. 

Articles  in  the  precious  metals  are  rare,  and  not  elaborate. 
They  comprise  two  Jibula  of  gold,  and  many  of  silver ;  seven  pairs 
of  earrings,  and  as  many  finger  rings  of  gold,  ten  rings  of  silver, 
besides  many  of  bronze,  and  a  few  of  ii'on. 

'  Bull.  Inst.  1872,  p.  116.  »  Bull.  Inst.  1872,  p.  209. 


CHAP.  Lxiv.]  GllEEK    PAINTED   VASES.  527 

The  necklaces  are  of  amber,  or  of  varief^ated  glass.  There  are 
pendants  also  of  blue  or  green  glass ;  with  buttons  of  the  same ; 
and  some  charming  little  bottles  of  variegated  glass  which  are 
commonly  called  Phoenician,  but  whose  origin  is  uncertain,  as 
they  are  found  in  sepulchres  in  all  parts  of  the  ancient  world. 
Of  ivory  there  are  some  plaques  with  animals  in  relief.  Tliere 
are  few  weapons,  but  some  arrow-heads  of  flint.  Specimens  of 
the  <es  rude  are  abundant,  the  only  money,  with  one  solitary 
exception  of  an  ccs  s'lgnatum,  discovered  at  La  Certosa. 

Greek  Pottery. 

Besides  the  plain  ware  in  black,  brown,  or  red  clay,  of  native 
manufacture,  this  necropolis  has  yielded  an  abundance  of  Greek 
l)ainted  vases — more  than  300  specimens,  it  is  said.  They  are 
all  of  the  Second  or  Third  styles.  Of  the  earliest  not  a  single 
example  has  been  found — a  fact  Avliich,  taken  in  connection  with 
the  other  fact  that  vases  with  black  and  vases  with  red  figures 
are  often  found  in  the  same  tomb,  indicates  that  the  date  of  these 
sepulchres  can  hardly  be  earlier  than  tlie  fifth  century  n.c. 

These  Greek  vases  were  generally  found  in  fragments,  but  the^' 
have  been  restored,  though  not  with  the  care  and  skill  they 
merited.  Many  are  still  very  defective  ;  most  have  been  clumsily 
repaired,  and  have  suffered  much  from  over-cleaning. 

The  subjects  of  these  vases  are  rarely  mythological.  Greek 
myths  do  not  seem  to  have  been  appreciated  by  these  northern 
Etruscans  as  by  those  on  the  other  side  of  the  Apennines.  On 
the  vases  with  black  figures  Bacchic  subjects  predominate ;  on 
those  with  red,  scenes  of  ordinary  life,  especially  rej^resentations 
of  the  banquet,  are  most  frequent.  The  former  class  generally 
show  a  mannerism,  which  has  caused  them  to  be  regarded  as 
mere  imitations  of  the  true  archaic  st3de.  The  latter  exhibit 
much  diversity  of  style ;  in  some  there  is  a  purity  and  severity 
of  design  almost  archaic  ;  in  others,  the  style  is  more  free  and 
masterl}' ;  in  many  it  degenerates  into  carelessness,  although 
hardly  betraying  the  Decadence. 

Among  the  vases  with  red  figures,  a  large  hrater  with  volute 
handles  is  conspicuous  for  its  size  and  beaut3\  It  represents 
Helen  taking  refuge  from  the  infuriated  Menelaus  at  the  shrine  of 
Apollo — that  god  liimself,  witli  his  sister,  standing  by  tlie  altar, 
and  Pallas,  instead  of  Aphrodite,  intervening  between  tlie  wrathful 
husband  and  the  peccant  wife.     A  novel  version  of  a  trite  subject.. 


o2S  BOLOGNA.  [CHAP.  lxiv. 

Amphora.  The  attempted  rape  of  Pallas  by  Hepliaistos — a 
very  rare  subject. 

Amphora.  A  iiympli  pouring  out  wine  for  a  warrior  on  his 
return  from  the  combat.  A  portion  of  the  cloth  in  which  the  vase 
was  wrajiped  still  covers  the  hero's  fiice. 

Ojcyhophvn.  A  Mfenad,  with  iltijrsus  and  Jcautharus,  dancing 
between  two  naked  SatjTS.  These  figures  are  full  of  life,  gi-ace, 
and  expression,  and  admirably  designed. 

Krater.  Displaying  a  combat  between  a  veteran  and  a  youthful 
warrior,  in  which  the  latter  i^revails ;  a  winged  goddess  backs 
each  combatant.  A  beautiful  vase,  of  much  purity  of  design  and 
delicacy  of  execution.  There  is  a  second  vase  with  the  same 
subject,  but  of  very  inferior  art,  and  probabl}'  an  Etruscan 
imitation. 

Kclehc.  A  nymph  playing  the  double-pipes  to  two  youths, 
each  holding  a  lyre.     Admii-ably  drawn,  and  full  of  expression. 

Kclehe.  Youths  reclining  at  a  sijmposium;  one  playing  the 
lyre.     A  vase  of  pure  design. 

Stamnos.  Herakles  killing  Busiris  on  the  altar.  Manj'  of 
these  vases  with  red  figures  have  been  used  as  cinerary  urns.'^ 

It  cannot  but  excite  surprise,  that  while  the  articles  already 
described  are,  almost  without  exception,  of  purely  native  charac- 
ter, there  should  be  mingled  with  them  so  large  a  number  of 
vases  of  unquestionably  Greek  manufacture.  In  the  Etruscan 
<:emeteries  beyond  the  Apennines  this  mixture  does  not  appear 
so  incongruous,  for  the  native  art,  in  its  various  stages  of  develoj:*- 
ment,  generalh'  betraj's  some  degree  of  Hellenic  influence,  which 
is  more  or  less  apparent  in  most  of  its  productions,  whether 
painted  tombs,  figui'ed  mirrors,  or  sculptured  urns  and  sarcophagi. 
This  influence  may  be  explained  by  the  very  earl}'  intercourse 
Cisapennine  Etruria  enjoyed  with  Greece,  either  through  direct 
commercial  relations,  or  through  her  conquest  of  Campania  and 
its  colonies.  The  Etruscans  of  Felsina,  on  the  other  hand,  seem 
to  have  had  no  intercom*se  with  Greece  before  the  third  centur}"- 
of  Home,  to  which  period  the  earliest  painted  vases  found  in  this 
necropolis  belong.  The  contrast,  therefore,  between  the  contem- 
porary productions  of  Etruscan  and  Greek  art,  as  mingled  in  the 
tombs  of  La  Certosa,  is  far  more  striking  than  a  comparison  would 
present  of  similar  monuments  drawn  from  the  cemeteries  of  Caere, 
Tarquinii,  or  Yulci. 

^  Detaildl  notices  of  the  figured  vases  in       raisonnS  of  Signor  E.  Brizio,  Bull.  Inst., 
this  collection  will  be  found  in  the  catalogue       1872,  pp.  76 — 92;  108 — 11 J. 


CHAP,  i.xiv.]  THE    ARNOALDI    EXCAVATIONS.  529 

Greek  vases  have  been  discovered  on  ViU'ious  sites  north  of 
the  Apennines  —  at  Mantova,  at  Modena,  at  Reggio,  and  in 
greater  abundance  at  Adria,  but  tliis  collection  from  La  Certosa 
surpasses  them  all  in  Ijulk,  though  it  cainiot  vie  in  importance 
with  any  of  the  Avell-known  musemus  on  the  other  side  of  the 
Apennines.  It  is  even  surpassed  in  mterest  hy  the  Palagi  collec- 
tion of  vases  in  the  outer  room. 


ScAvi  Arxoaldi. 

Ix  an  inner  chamber  in  this  same  jNIuseum  are  exhibited  some 
interesting  objects  from  the  Arnoaldi  excavations,  a  preliminary 
word  on  which  is  necessary. 

The  Cemetery  at  La  Certosa,  it  has  been  said,  was  but  a 
portion  of  the  necropolis  of  Felsina,  which  extended  from  that 
point  far  eastward  along  the  foot  of  the  hills,  and  even  beneath 
the  cit}"  itself.  Li  September,  1871,  Signer  Astorre  Arnoaldi 
commenced  excavations  on  his  estate  of  S.  Polo,  half  a  mile  from 
La  Certosa  to  the  east,  and  found  numerous  tombs  similar  to 
those  at  that  cemetery,  flanking  for  the  most  part  an  ancient  road, 
which  ran  east  and  west.  In  August,  1H7'2,  these  operations  were 
extended  to  the  adjoining  property  of  Signor  Tagliavini,  still 
nearer  Bologna;  in  September,  1873,  to  that  of  Signor  Benacci;  and 
in  the  following  autumn  to  the  contiguous  land  of  the  Marchese 
De  Luca.  In  all  this  ground  were  disclosed  numerous  tombs 
generally  flanking  the  ancient  road,  and  all  belonging  to  the  great 
necropolis  of  Felsina.  The  produce,  however,  of  these  several 
excavations  has  been  kept  distinct,  and  is  conventionally  spoken 
of  as  though  it  belonged  to  difl'erent  cemeteries. 

In  the  Arnoaldi  diggings,  no  less  than  248  tombs  were  opened, 
the  greater  part  of  them  of  archaic  character,  like  those  of  Yilla- 
nova.  A  portion  only  of  the  articles  found  in  them  is  exhibited  in 
this  Museum,  another  portion  having  passed  into  the  possession 
of  Count  Gozzadini,  and  the  reuiainder  being  retained  b}'  Signor 
Arnoaldi.  Against  the  walls  of  this  chamber  are  arranged  four- 
teen alixb -stelte,  smaller  than  those  from  La  Certosa,  but  of  similar 
shape,  and  like  them  sculptured  in  relief.  Some  show  two  war- 
riors engaged  in  combat ;  others,  two  civilians  conversing.  On 
several  is  a  solitary  figure  armed  Avitli  sword  or  spear  and  circular 
shield  ;  such  stclce  marking  doubtless  the  tombs  of  warriors.  In 
one  instance  a  woman  in  close  fitting  cliiton,  and  with  dishevelled 
liair,  is  led  away  b}'  a  man,  who  puts  his  arm  round  her  neck,  but  tlie 

VOL.    11.  M    .H 


530  BOLOGNA.  [chap.  lxiv. 

luessengev  of  Death,  recognisable  by  bis  uings  and  tunic,  steps 
lip  on  the  otlier  side,  and  cbiims  her  as  his  own.  The  art  is  rude 
in  the  extreme,  yet  not  very  archaic.  The  monument  bears  an 
Ktruscan  inscription,  wliicli  in  Latin  letters  ■would  I'un  thus: — 

MI    SUTI    THAXCHYILUS   TITLALUS. 

Another  stcht  shows  the  final  embrace  of  husband  and  wife. 
She  puts  one  hand  on  his  shoulder,  and  grasps  his  hand  with  the 
other,  as  if  to  detain  hiui,  but  his  attitude  and  the  stick  over  his 
shoulder,  show  that  he  is  about  to  start  on  the  journe}'  from 
■\vhich  no  traveller  returns.  Over  their  heads  is  an  inscription 
which  I  failed  to  decipher,  though  Fabretti  reads  it  thus  : — 

YEiri    KAEMUXIS.' 

These  were  the  first  Ktruscan  inscriptions  discovered  in  the 
ancient  cemeteries  around  Bologna,  though  several  have  since 
been  found  in  the  Scavi  De  Luca,  and  in  the  Giardino  Pubblico. 
In  this  part  of  the  Felsinean  necropolis,  cremation  api)ears  to 
have  been  most  in  fixshion,  the  burials  being  only  11  per  cent,  of 
the  burnings.  The  dead  seem  to  have  been  burnt  on  the  spot 
where  their  remains  were  interred. 

Very  interesting  is  a  collection  of  sun-dried,  hand-made 
pottery  of  very  early  date,  brown  or  red,  with  simjile  decorations, 
generally  geometrical,  not  scratched,  but  stamped  on  the  clay, 
often  in  bands  surrounding  the  pot.  To  these  earlier  designs 
Avere  sometimes  added  rows  of  snakes,  or  ducks,  or  still  later,  of 
luicouth  figures,  which  it  required  a  stretch  of  imagination  to 
regard  as  human.  On  one  rude  pot  alone  could  yt)U  trace  any 
resemblance  to  Greek  ornament,  in  a  double  chevron  pattern, 
with  something  like  the  meander  fret — probabh*  accidental.  Be- 
sides the  ])ottery  there  are  many  interesting  articles  in  bronze — 
sifiila'  with  twisted  handles,  sacrificial  knives,  flesh-hooks  of 
diminutive  size,  personal  ornaments,  hair-pins  and  combs,  filmlce 
ornamented  with  amber  and  glass  beads,  keys,  chisels,  saws,  and 
other  implements  in  bronze,  besides  knives,  axes,  and  weapons  in 
iron.  A  comparison  of  these  articles  from  the  scavi  of  Ta  Certosa 
and  Arnoaldi  with  those  from  A'illanova,  proves  their  relative 
antiquity  to  be  in  an  inverse  order  to  that  in  Avhich  they  are 
here  mentioned." 

'  I5iill.  Inst.,  1872,  p.  178.  Scavi  tlie.se  excavations  is  given  Ly  the  Count> 
Arnoaldi,  \>.  87.  (iozz.nlini,  in  his  Scavi  AinoaUli,  J>ologna, 

*  A  full  descriiition  of  the  produce  of       1S77. 


CHAP.  Lxrv.]  THE    EENACCI    DIGGINGS.  531 

ScAvr  Bkxacci. 

In  the  c'\-coiiveut  of  S.  I'raucesco  are  deposited  the  fniits  of 
the  excuviitions  made  in  tlie  grounds  of  Signer  Giuseppe  Benaeci, 
for  ii  siglit  of  wliieli  I  am  indehted  to  the  courtes}'  of  the  Cavaliere 
Zannoni,  wlio  disinterred  them.     In  a  hirge  room  on  the  ground- 
floor  the  objects  are  hiid  out,  the  produce  of  each  tomb  being 
kept  distinct ;  an  admirable  ph\n,  adopted  by  the  Cavaliere,  to 
enable  liim  to  ascertain  the  comparative  antiquity  of  the  several 
articles.    The  tombs,  lie  informed  me,  lay  beneath  two  upi)er  slr;tta 
of  interments,  Roman  and  Gaulish,  and  were  about  300  in  all,  of 
Avliich  51  were  distinguished  by  their  i)rimitive  character,  showing 
seven  different  modes  of  sepulture.     The  tombs  which  oontnined 
skeletons  he  refers  to  the  Gallic  period,  for  they  also  contained 
swords  of  great  length,  like  those  found  in  the  Gallic  tombs  at 
Magn3'-Ijambert  in  Burginidy,  and  bronze  vases  like  those  dis- 
covered in  Haute  Alsace ;  the  sepulchres  of  an  earlier  epoch  were 
generally  pits,  either  simply  sunk  in  the  earth,  or  lined  in  different 
ways  with  pebbles  or  slabs,  in  the  latter  case  somewhat  resembling 
dolmens  in  structure,  but  always  inclosing  pots  containing  burnt 
bones,  mixed  with  articles  of  bronze,  generally  of  personal  adorn- 
ment,  and  always   covered  by  an  inverted  cup.     These  ossuar}'' 
pots  rested  on  the  remains  of  the  pyre,  and  were  often  of  plain 
clay,  h;df-baked,  and  rudely  fashioned,  but  man}^  were  decorated 
with  simple  patterns  invariabl}'  scratclied  or  incised,  not  stamped, 
like   those   of  tlie   other  cemeteries   described,  proving  tliem  to 
precede   in   point  of  antiquity  even  the  pottery  found   at  Villa- 
}i()va.''      Among  this   early  ware  I  noticed   two  vases  deccn'ated 
with  a  red  meander  painted  on  a  Avhitish  ground — several  pots  of 
dice-box  shape,  bearing  incised  ornaments,  and  with  tlie  bottom 
not  precisely  in  the  middle  as  usual,  thus  forming  two  cui)s  of 
ditt'erent  capacities, — a  cup  with  rings  below  the  rim,  from  which 
de})ended  chains  of  teri'a-cotta, — and  a  singular  pot,  witli  a  liandle 
moulded  into  a  bull's  head,  and  sliowing  a  small  figure  of  a  nnin 
on  horse-back,  which  seems  of  later  date  than  the  rest   of  this 
l>otti'ry.      The  bron/es  also  are  peculiar.     Axes,  purposely  broken 
when  placed  in  the  tomb,  for  they  Avould  be  bent,  not  fractured,  by 
any   accidental    injury, — horse-bits,   variously   shaped   and   orna- 
mented,^— a  dish  resting  on  seven  tall  legs, — an  miijii/.r  of  bronze, 

•*  The  tombs,  whose  contents  msvrk  tlicin       epoch  as  Villanova  he  refers  to  the  Unihri. 
as  of  liiglier  antiijuity  than  those  of  Vil-        l!ull.  Inst.,  1S75,  p.  215. 
hiiiova,     are    ascril)e<l    by    the    Cavaliere  ■•  For  niucli  interesting  information  al)oiit 

Z:innoni  to  tlie  Pehisyi  ;  those  of  tlie  same       ancient  bits  disiutei'red  in  various  parts  of 

M  M  2 


532  BOLOGXA.  [chap.  lxiv. 

r 

bearing  a  beautiful  patina,  adorned  with  studs  repousse,  and  en- 
graved with  designs  of  snakes  and  other  simple  jiatterns, — a  vase 
shaped  hke  a  tea-pot,  studded  with  knobs  in  nyousse  work.  There 
were  many  boxes  not  yet  emptied  though  opened,  and  in  them  I 
obsen'ed  double  pots  of  bronze  of  different  forms  ;  a  bronze  dish 
beautifully  ornamented  ;  small  vases  of  variegated  glass,  and  one 
oinochoe  of  the  same,  of  extraordinary  size ;  cinerar}^  cistc  both  of 
bronze  and  terra-eotta;  and  bronze  so-called  tinti)inahiila,  similar 
to  those  discovered  at  Yillanova,  which  the  Cavaliere  takes  to 
have  been  jiersonal  ornaments.'' 

ScAvi  De  Luca. 

In  the  Palazzo  Bentivoglio  are  preserved  the  sepulchral  relics 
excavated  by  the  Marchese  De  Luca,  in  his  j^roperty  adjoining  that 
of  Benacci,  which  I  also  inspected  under  the  courteous  guidance 
of  the  Cavaliere  Zannoni.  In  this  portion  of  the  necropolis  195 
of  the  sepulchres  opened  were  of  the  early  epoch  of  Yillanova,  110 
were  of  more  recent  date,  with  furniture  more  nearly  resembling 
that  of  La  Certosa.  The  most  prominent  articles  are  stone 
stelce  of  slab-form  with  reliefs,  several  bearing  Etruscan  inscrip- 
tions, but  all  more  or  less  broken.  One  of  them  bears  a  singular 
subject.  A  man  with  helmet,  cuii'ass,  and  shield,  but  no  weapon, 
stands  opposite  a  Typhon  with  serpent-tails  instead  of  legs,  who 
appears  from  his  attitude  to  be  making  fun  of  the  man.  Another 
represents  a  draped  figure,  pedum  in  hand,  as  travellers  are  repre- 
sented on  Greek  vases,  but  with  open  hand  raised  to  his  nose,  as 
though  he  were,  what  is  vulgarly  called,  "taking  a  sight."  Here 
is  much  pottery  of  brown  clay,  all  with  stamped  decorations  ; 
besides  Greek  vases  in  the  Third  style,  some  beautifid,  but  all  in 
fragments.  Many  hvonzejihuke,  some  of  rare  and  graceful  forms, 
four  ornamented  with  variegated  glass.  A  tray  of  bronze  with  a 
concavity  in  the  centre,  and  a  small  cup  studded  with  bosses 
attached  to  the  tray  at  each  end.  A  cup  of  the  same  metal  very 
delicately  embossed.  A  few  inirrors  without  designs ;  one  of 
lead.  A  female  figure  of  lead,  crowning  a  bronze  candelahnnn. 
Several  lint'iuiKditda,  one  only  4  inches  long,  perforated  witli 
9  square  holes;  some  with  one  hole  onl}-;  others  with  none,  being 

Italy,  including  A rezzo  in  Etruria,  as  well  Bologna,  1875. 

as  in  transalpine  lands,  see  the  work   of  *  For  the  excavations  on  this  site,  see  the 

the  Count  Gozzadini,  already  referred  to,  notices  by  Zannoni,  Bull  Inst.,  1875,  pp. 

—Mors  de  Cheval  Italiques   de  Ronzano,  177-182;  209-216. 


cuAi'.  Lxrv.]     Till']  ])]■:  LUC'A  AXI)  ARSENAL  DIGGINGS.  533 

in  that  case  covered  witli  incised  decorntions.  ZannDiii  will  not 
admit  them  to  be  other  than  personal  ornaments,  prcjbaldy  worn 
on  the  bosom.  Goz/.adini  maintiiins  that  they  are  musical  instru- 
ments like  gongs,  which  view  is  borne  out  b}^  the  fact  that  when 
discovered  they  are  invariably  accompanied  by  small  mallets  of 
bronze.  lie  has  even  cast  new  ones  out  of  the  old  metal  in 
proof  of  his  view.  I  observed  also  a  beautiful  armlet  of  ivory  ; 
sundry  ivory  plarpies;  dice,  both  cubes  and  parallelopipeds,  like 
bricks,  but  always  accompanied  with  Httle  pebbles,  probably 
serving  for  counters  ;  and  "an  abvnulance  of  Phccnician  glass  ot 
brilliant  colours. 

ScAVi  dell'  Arsexale. 

In  June,  1874,  five  tombs  were  fcnind  within  the  precincts  of  the 
Military  Arsenal,  outside  the  Porta  S.  Mamolo,  on  the  south  of 
the  city,  but  one  only  of  tliem  was  intact.  It  was  indicated  by  a 
rude  slab,  ten  feet  below  the  surface,  which  covered  a  large 
dulitnn  or  jar,  inclosing  an  ossuary  pot,  whose  contents  marked 
this  as  the  sepulchre  of  a  lady.  Isolated  fragments  of  pottery 
around  this  jar,  of  similar  character  to  that  of  Villanova,  showed 
that  the  ancients  were  in  the  habit  of  breaking  the  pottery  which 
formed  the  fiu-niture  of  the  tomb,  and  of  not  interring  all  the 
pieces.  Certain  fragments  also  proved  that  in  very  early  times, 
potters  inlaid  the  clay,  when  soft,  with  another  material  of  a 
difierent  colour,  so  as  to  form  indelible  designs,  just  as  in  the 
celebrated  Plenri  Deux  ware.  A  t'uitinnahulnm,  not  of  solid 
bronze,  as  usual,  but  formed  of  two  thin  plates  of  that  metal 
soldered  together  at  the  edges,  and  leaving  a  vacant  space 
between  them,  so  that  it  could  no  longer  serve  as  a  gong,  w^as 
probably  a  mere  sepulchral  imitation  of  the  musical  instrument ; 
such  shams  being  not  unfre(piently  found  in  ancient  tombs.'' 

jNlixed  with  the  charred  bones  of  this  lady,  were  her  ornaments — 
two  andjer  necklaces,  each,  of  twenty-five  beads,  in  one  case 
globular,  in  the  other  cut  into  the  form  of  hulLc,  scallop-shells, 
or  celts,  the  amber  being  perfectly  transparent,  and  of  a  deep  red 

•>  In  lay  excavations  in  tlie  Greek  ceme-  of  devoting  tlieir  treasures  to  the  dead  than 

teries  of  the  Cyrenaica,  I  have  often  found  the  early  ijeople  of  Italy,  and  were  content 

bracelets,    iihuhe,    and    other    articles    of  to  burj-  shodely  ornaments  with  them,  and 

jewellery,    never   of    gold    or   silver,    but  to  deposit  one  or  two  painted  vases  in  a 

always  mere  imitations  in  lead  ;   toyetlier  tomb,    where   the    Etruscans  would    have 

with  necklaces  of  l)eads  or  plagues,  of  terra-  interred  at  least  a  dozen, 
cotta  gilt.     The  Greeks  were  more  chary 


534  .  BOLOGNA.  [ciiap.  lxiv. 

line,  like  that  foiiiul  in  these  nortliern  suliapennine  regions.  A 
gokien  Jihula  witii  figures  of  animals  drawn  on  it  in  granulated 
Etruscan  work,  of  the  most  elaborate  description,  and  as  perfect 
as  if  fresh  from  the  goldsmith's  hands.  Other  fihiihe  of  bronze, 
adorned  witli  amber,  bone,  or  a  vitreous  paste,  blue  or  yellow, 
resembling  certain  Jihidm  found  at  Alllanova.  Another  ornament 
comiiosed  of  two  narrow  strips  of  wrought  gold,  decorated  at 
each  end  with  heads  of  I^gyptian  tyjje,  stamped,  and  united  by 
golden  cords,  on  Avhicli  were  strung  two  large  silver  rings,  bound 
spirally  around  with  gold  thread.  Gozzadini  takes  these  orna- 
ments for  earrings.  It  is  difficult  to  explain  how  this  perfection 
of  jeweller's  work  can  be  coeval  with  the  very  primitive  pottery 
and  bronzes  with  which  it  was  found.'  The  easiest  solution 
appears  to  me  to  suppose  these  gold  ornaments  to  have  been 
3m])orted  from  the  other  side  of  the  Apennines,  where  we  are 
justified  in  regarding  the  Etruscans  contemporary  with  those  of 
"Mllanova,  to  have  already  attained  a  much  higher  degree  of 
cultm-e. 

ScAvi  Mai.vasia-Turtoiu:i.i,i. 

In  1857  the  Count  Ercole  Malvasia,  digging  in  the  ground 
attached  to  his  palace  in  the  Via  Maggiore,  near  the  Leaning 
Tower  degli  Asinelli,  to  lay  the  foundations  of  new  buildings, 
came  upon  some  fragments  of  earh-  pottery  like  that  of  Villanova. 
He  consulted  Count  Gozzadini,  who  strongly  urged  him  to 
continue  his  researches,  and  induced  him  to  intrust  the  exca- 
vations to  his  care.  At  the  dejitli  of  al)out  two  metres  were  found 
vestiges  of  the  lloman  Via  .Emilia,  which  had  been  ascertained 
b}'  previous  discoveries  to  run  through  the  heart  of  Bononia.  A 
metre  below  this  tlie  Count  came  on  an  ancient  sepulchre,  and  at 
that  dej^tli  to  that  of  five  metres  he  found  seven  others,  three  of 
which  were  intact.  The  most  important  of  these  was  covered 
with  a  large  rude  slab  of  sandstone,  under  which  lay  an  ossuary 
pot  of  black  clay,  similar  to  those  connnon  at  Villanova,  which 
rested  on  the  ashes  of  the  pyre,  and  -was  surrounded  by  many 
small  pots  of  red  or  black  chn-,  of  various  shapes,  mostly  turned 


^  Gozzadini,   Sepolcri    scavati  uell'   Ar-  riiosnicia  is  in  fa-sliion  just  now  with  anti- 

senale  Militarc  ili  Uologna,  1875.     Signer  quaries.     Gozzadini  refers  tlie  contents  of 

Brizio  regards  the  pottciy  as  Umbrian,  and  tliese  tombs  to  the  third  centuiy  of  Rome, 

the  jewellery  as  rh(xni<:ian,  though  of  the  or  about  .500  B.C.  Mors  de  Cheval  Itali<iucs, 

latter  we  have  no  satisfactoiy  proo'.     ]5nt  jip.  "(5,  39. 


CHAP.  Lxiv.]       EXCAVATIONS    WITIITX    Till-:    WALLS.  535 

and  sinootlKMl  l»y  Uw  lathe.  On  tlic  burnt  Ijoncs  lay  the  blade  of 
an  iron  knife,  and  two  hvow/.e  Jihnhc  ;  and  near  the  ossuary  were 
some  bones  of  a  horse,  probably  a  favourite  steed  sacrificed  to 
the  iiKines  of  his  master.  Another  tomb  contained  numerous 
bones  of  the  ox,  hog,  goat,  horse,  and  fowl,  some  charred  by  fire. 
Among  numerous  articles  in  bronze  was  found  one  large  solitary 
mass  of  rusted  iron.  The  objects  in  amber  and  coloured  glass 
closel}'  resembled  those  discovered  at  A'illanova ;  indeed  the 
identity  between  the  most  characteristic  articles  excavated  on 
the  two  sites,  convinced  the  Count  Gozzadini  that  they  were 
contemporary,  and  belonged  to  one  and  the  same  people. 

Among  these  tombs  Avas  found  a  sculptured  slab,  probably  a 
stela,  bearing,  in  Hat  relief,  the  figures  of  two  animals,  supposed 
to  represent  calves,  standing  erect  vls-a-vis,  each  with  his  fore- 
leg resting  on  the  stalk  of  a  plant,  in  much  the  same  position  as 
the  lions  over  the  gate  of  MvcentB  are  represented,  one  on  each 
side  of  a  column ;  although  in  point  of  artistic  excellence,  these 
calves  maintain  a  very  respectful  distance  behind  the  celebrated 
lions.** 

Similar  (jbjects  to  those  found  under  the  I'asa  ^lalvasia,  were 
brought  to  light  in  the  Piazzale  di  S.  Domenico  in  18G8.  In 
1873  some  sepulchres  were  opened  beneath  the  Casa  Grandi  in 
the  Via  del  Pra.dello,  also  within  the  walls,  which  Count  Gozzadini 
pronounced  to  be  indubitably  Etruscan  from  the  gold  objects  and 
a  figured  mirror  found  within  them,  but  which  Cavaliere  Zannoni 
maintained  not  to  bt'  sepulchres  at  all,  but  the  huts  of  the  early 
inhabitants.  There  were  twenty-nine  of  these  hovels  or  tombs, 
some  circular,  others  oblong,  paved  with  pebbles,  in  a  stratum 
from  Ih  to  'Ij  feet  in  depth,  mixed  with  pottery  and  bronzes  of 
the  same  primitive  description  as  those  found  at  N'illanova,  no 
implements  of  stone,  but  a  nndtitude  of  bones  of  animals  split 
longitudinally,  as  if  to  extract  the  marrow.  The  jewellery  dis- 
covered in  them  seems  to  upset  the  hut-theor}-  ;  for  the  peo])le 
■who  would  deposit  such  articles  in  their  t()nd)s,  for  the  use  of  the 
deceased  in  another  state  of  existence,  would  hardly  leave  them  in 
their  habitations.  Ijeing  now  I'eclosed,  there  is  no  op[)()rtunity 
of  verifying  their  character  ;  sui)posing  them  to  have  been  huts, 
the}'  nmst  have  been  the  dwellings  of  a  very  i)rimitive  race,  prior 
to  the  Etruscans,  for  the  description  given  of  them  by  /aniioni'' 

^  For    all    illustration,    see    (iozzailiiii,  '■'  Scavi  dclla  Via  del   I'latuilo,  Hologna, 

Alcuni   Seiiolcri  della  Necropoli   Felsinea,        LS7"j. 
p.  20  ;  or  Scavi  Ariioakli,  p.  ]-. 


53G  BOLOGXA.  [CHAP,  i.xiv. 

indicates  a  semi-savage  tribe,  in  a  vevv  low  state  of  cultm-e. 
Professor  Brizio,  ^vllo  regards  all  the  ancient  cemeteries  around 
Bologna,  with  the  exception  of  those  at  La  Certosa  and  Mar/.a- 
botto,  as  Umbrian,  takes  these  hovels,  if  such  they  were,  for 
the  vestiges  of  the  Umbrian  town  -which  he  supposes  to  have 
preceded  Felsina  on  this  site.  To  this  view  I  can  raise  no 
objection,  not  having  had  sufficient  experience  of  the  i)Osition  of 
Umbrian  cities  to  hazard  an  opinion.  But  having  visited  and 
examined  every  site  recognized  as  Etruscan,  with  one  excep- 
tion, on  the  other  side  of  the  Apennines,  I  feel  authorized  to 
pronounce  the  site  of  Bologna  as  utterly  im-Etruscan.  More- 
over, it  is  impossible  to  beheve  that  such  hovels  belonged  to  the 
l)eoi)le  who  produced  the  beautifid  bronze  sitiila  in  the  Museum, 
or  who  had  so  much  aesthetic  taste  as  to  decorate  their  sepidchres 
with  choice  specimens  of  Greek  ceramic  art.  In  any  case, 
supposing  them  to  have  been  habitations,  which  is  disputed  bj* 
Oozzadini  and  others  who  saw  them,  they  are  not  proved  to 
have  belonged  to  Felsina,  the  metropolis  of  noilhern  Etruria, 
and  cannot  be  accepted  as  evidence  as  to  the  site  of  that 
celebrated  city.^ 

An  interesting  deposit  of  bronzes  was  brought  to  hght  in  the 
spring  of  1877  in  the  heart  of  Bologna.  In  digging  a  trench  near 
the  Uiazza  di  S.  Francesco,  the  labourers  came,  at  the  dejith  of 
six  feet,  on  a  large  dolium  or  jar,  lying  beneath  the  remains  of  a 
lioman  pavement  of  oj^us  S2)icatum.  The  jar  was  low  and  flat, 
•with  a  ver}'  wide  mouth,  and  was  found  to  contain  a  multitude  of 
articles  in  bronze,  as  many  as  14,000  in  all,  packed  in  the  jar  in 
the  closest  manner  possible,  with  a  manifest  regard  to  the  econo- 
mization  of  space.  A  few  of  the  articles  appeared  uninjured,  but 
the  greater  part  were  more  or  less  broken,  and  there  can  be  no 
doubt  that  these  objects  had  been  collected  in  order  to  be  melted 
down  and  re-cast ;  such  ancient  foundry-deposits  having  been  dis- 
covered in  many  countries  of  Europe,  and  notably  in  France, 
■where  01,  and  in  Switzerland,  Avhere  6  similar  dejiosits  have 
been  brought  to  light,  all  of  very  high  antiquity,-  But  this  one 
deposit  of  Bologna  surpassed,  in  the  abundance  and  variety  of  the 
objects  it  contained,  all  those  of  France  and  Switzerland  put  to- 
gether.    Of  axes  alone,  of  which  there  were  four  distinct  types, 

'  If   they  were    reallj-   dwellings,    they  time  of  their  occupation  of  northern  Italy, 

might  with  more  reason  be  assigned  to  the  -  See  De  Alortillet,    "La   Fonderie   dc 

Gauls,  for  they  well  accord  with  the  de-  Lamaud;"  Chantre,  "  I'Age  du  Lronze  eu 

scription   given  by  Polybius  (II.  c.  17)  of  France,"  cited  by  Gozzadini. 
the  rude  mode  of  life  of  that  peoj^le  at  the 


^  CHAP.  Lxiv.]  AN    AXCIEXT    J''OUNJ)ny.  537 

this  deposit  contained  1359,  -while  in  tlie  G7  otlier  foundries 
referred  to,  they  numbered  only  177.  So  with  Jihidce  ;  the  G7 
transalpine  deposits  produced  hut  7 ;  while  this  of  Bologna 
yielded  no  fewer  than  2,397.  All  of  these,  save  12,  were  without 
their  pin,  and  it  seems  that  they  must  have  been  sent  to  the 
foundry  i'or  repair;  for  some  of  the  others  had  already  been 
mended,  and  the  pin  fastened  by  little  rivets.  The  other  articles 
consisted  of  lance-heads,  sickles,  chisels,  gouges,  saws,  files,  cres- 
cent-shaped razors,  bracelets,  buttons,  hooks,  horse-bits,  i^ludcra', 
handles  to  pots,  and  a  variety  of  other  implements,  together  with 
one  rude  attempt  at  the  human  figure  ;  the  weight  of  the  whole 
reaching  1500  kilograms,  or  about  29|  cwt.  ^Nlany  of  the  hatchets 
bore  marks  of  varioiis  kinds,  and  among  them  the  snastika,  or 
footed  cross,  so  often  inscribed  on  the  terra-cotta  whorls  found  at 
Hissarlik  by  Dr.  Schliemann.  One  fact  is  worthy  of  remark,  that 
the  fractures  of  these  bronze  articles,  with  very  few  exceptions, 
api^ear  to  have  been  accidental,  not  intentional,  as  is  the  case 
with  the  similar  deposits  in  other  parts  of  Europe.  The  common 
practice  of  breaking  the  articles  to  facilitate  the  fusion  of  the 
metal,  sufficiently  accounts  for  the  fjict.  The  intentional  fracture 
of  the  bronzes  and  other  fmiiiture  of  the  tombs,  is  a  different 
matter,  and  can  only  be  explained  as  a  funeral  rite. 

The  Count  Gozzadini,  to  whom  I  am  indebted  for  my  informa- 
tion on  this  subject,  ascribes  these  relics  to  the  period  of  transi- 
tion between  the  age  of  bronze  and  that  of  iron,  or  even  to  the 
commencement  of  the  latter,  that  is,  about  the  tenth  or  eleventh 
century  u.c.  which  will  be  nearly  coeval  witli  tlie  necroi^olis  of 
Yillanova.^ 

Maiizabotto. 

I  can  hardly  treat  of  the  Etruscan  antiquities  of  Bologna 
Avithout  some  mention  of  those  discovered  at  ^larzabotto,  in  the 
valley  of  the  lleno,  the  first  site  on  this  side  of  the  Apennines 
where  such  relics  were  brought  to  light.  It  is  on  record  that 
for  more  than  three  centuries  ])ast,  chance  discoveries  of  such 
objects  have  been  made  here  from  time  to  time,  and  ])articularly 
in  1831,  but  it  was  not  till  18()2,  when  the  (io/zailini  iinds  at 
A'illanova  had  excited  general  interest  in  the  subject,  tliat  syste- 
matic excavations  were  set  on  foot  by  the  C'avaliere  Pompeo  Aria, 

■'  Note  sur  iiue  Cuchcttc  de  Foiuleur  ou       iliui — read  to  tlie  Institute  of  Fmuce,  on 
Fonderie  iiBologiui,  iiar  le  Coiute  J.  (tozzu-       2r)tli  May,  1877. 


538  BOLOGNA.  [chai-.  lxiv. 

the  2>i""pi"it?tor  of  the  hiiiJ.  For  ei^lit  years  these  researches 
were  curried  on  uiuler  the  direction  of  the  Count  (i-ozzadini, 
Avho  i)ul)hshed  an  account  of  his  hibours  in  two  hirge  quarto 
vohunes  with  37  jihites.^  The  fruits  of  these  excavations  are 
stored  on  the  spot,  hi  the  viHa  of  the  Count  Aria,  son  of  tlie 
Cavaliere,  hut  in  consequence  of  some  legal  question  still  pend- 
ing, they  are  sealed  up,  and  inaccessible  to  strangers.  Such,  at 
least,  is  the  answer  I  have  received  on  three  recent  visits  to 
Bologna,  to  nrr  frequent  inquiries  on  this  subject. 

The  ancient  site,  however,  is  easy  of  access,  as  it  lies  on  the  rail- 
road from  Bologna  to  Florence,  27  chilometres,  or  about  17  miles, 
from  the  former  city.  It  occupies  an  elevated  plateau  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  stream,  just  above  the  station  of  Marzabotto. 
But  before  reaching  this,  at  the  previous  station  of  II  Sasso,  a 
loft}'  cliif  overhangs  the  road,  pierced  with  caves  Avhich  appear  to 
have  been  Etruscan  tombs,  and  sepulchres  undoubtedl}'  of  that 
character  have  been  opened  in  this  neighboiu'hood  by  Signor 
Comelli ;  suggesting  the  probable  existence  of  a  series  of  towns 
or  villages  in  the  lower  part  of  tliis  beautiful  valley,  from  a  very 
eaily  period. 

The  ancient  site  above  Marzabotto  occupies  a  plateau  called 
Misano,  having  a  gentle  slope  towards  the  sti-eani,  and  measuring 
some  700  metres  in  length  by  310  in  breadth.  It  is  intersected 
b}'  numerous  low  walls  constructed  of  })ebbles  without  mortar, 
from  16  to  24  inches  thick,  and  in  general  of  very  shallow 
depth,  though  in  parts  sinking  as  low  as  5  feet ;  but  the  top  of 
these  Avails  lies  at  the  uniform  level  of  ten  inches  beneath  the 
surface.  These  walls  form  a  vast  net- work  of  cells  of  different 
dimensions,  varying  from  6  to  25  feet  in  length  by  5  to  20  feet 
in  width,  many  of  them  retaining  fragments  of  a  flooring  of 
pebbles,  which  in  some  places  has  been  broken  through,  a  fact 
suggestive  of  explorations  in  past  ages.  Two  broad  streets, 
about  15  yards  wide,  appear  to  have  crossed  the  plateau  from 
east  to  west,  and  from  north  to  south  ;  and  mingled  with  the 
cells  were  narrow  and  shalloAv  trenches,  pebble-paved,  lined  with 
tiles,  and  stopped-up  at  intervals,  Avhicli  are  thought  to  have  been 
water-courses. 


■•  "  Un'   antica   Xecropoli  a  ^larzaLotto  a   pamplilet,    "  Keuseijaieiiients    siir    une 

nel  bolognese,  rehuione  del  Conte 'j.  (rozza-  ancienne    Xecropole  a  Marzabotto,  1S71," 

ilini,     Boloj,Tia,     ISCo,"     and     "  ITlteriori  to  which    I    am   chiefly   in<lebted    for    my 

Scopcrte  nell'  antica  Xecropoli  a  Marzabotto.  description  of  this  site. 


Bologna,  1S70."  lie  siibsequeutly  published 


CHAP.  Lxiv.]  EESEARCHES    AT    MARZABOTTO.  539 

In  the  cells  was  found  a  vast  (jiuiutit^y  of  coarse  potteiv  in 
fragments,  with  a  few  pieces  of  fine  and  even  of  painted  ware, 
together  with  many  portions  of  fiat  tiles,  of  whicli  the  tomhs  are 
supposed  to  have  been  constructed,  for  some  coffins  formed  of 
such  tiles,  Avhich  were  found  intact,  contained  burnt  ashes  and 
many  small  sepulchral  vases.  In  the  cells  were  also  discovered 
handles  of  pots,  small  idols,  and  other  articles  in  bronze,  together 
with  many  specimens  of  the  ccs  rude  of  various  forms  and  weights, 
and  invariably  in  each  cell  one  large  urn  of  terra-cotta,  often  broken, 
which  had  probably  contained  the  remains  of  the  deceased  gathered 
from  the  pyre,  although  two  such  urns  were  found  filled  with 
pebbles.  Ashes  and  charred  bones  Avere  scattered  on  every 
hand  ;  the  soil  was  black  and  viscid,  as  if  with  the  decomposition 
of  abundant  animal  matter,  and  numerous  human  skeletons  were 
brought  to  light,  some  with  their  weapons  lying  by  their  side. 
Certain  well-tombs,  whicli  were  opened  here  and  there  among 
the  cells,  also  contahied  the  skeletons  of  men  mixed  witli  the 
bones  of  domestic  animals  in  large  quantities. 

The  question  here  arises,  what  were  these  cells — tombs  or 
houses — the  abodes  of  the  living  or  of  the  dead  ?  If  sepulchres, 
they  have  no  counterpart  in  any  known  cemetery  on  the  other 
side  of  the  Apennines,  the  nearest  resemblance  to  them  being 
seen  in  the  Mancini  tomhs  at  Orvieto,  where  the  last  resting- 
places  of  the  dead  are  grouped  and  arranged  in  streets  and  blocks, 
precisely  like  the  habitations  of  the  living.  On  the  one  hand  it 
may  be  urged  that  the  cells  are  generally  too  small  even  for  huts, 
that  there  is  no  visible  means  of  communication  between  them, 
that  the  walls  are  too  shallow  and  too  weak  to  support  a  super- 
structure, that  the  pottery  and  other  articles  found  within  them 
are  identical  with  those  discovered  in  undoubted  sepulchres,  tlie 
well-tombs  mixed  with  them  for  instance,  and  tluit  tlir  Inunan 
skeletons  and  burnt  bones  prove  their  original  puri)ose  to  have 
been  that  of  interment.  It  may  be  said,  on  the  other  hand,  in 
.support  of  the  habitation-theory,  that  the  dwelHngs  of  many 
Hindoos  at  the  present  day  are  not  more  spacious  than  these 
cells  ;  •'  that  the  walls  which  inclose  them  may  have  been  mere 
partitions  between  the  several  huts,  or  houses  ;  that  the  abund- 
ance of  animal  bones,  and  the  comparative  paucity  of  human 
remains,  are  suggestive  rather  of  huts  than  of  sepulchi-es;  that  the 
articles  found  within  the  cells  were  not  purely  funereal,  but  mu^t 

•'  Uurtoi),  EU'iiscaii  Dologna,  ]>.  l^jO, 


o-io  EOLOGXA.  [CHAP.  Lxiv. 

have  served  the  inhabitants  of  the  ancient  town  on  this  site  for 
ornamental,  domestic,  or  Avarhke  purposes,  and  that  no  inference 
favourahle  to  tlie  tomb-theorv  can  therefore  be  drawn  from  their 
cliscoverv  in  sepulchres;  that  the  broad  avenues  paved  with  slabs 
a  metre  square  can  only  have  been  streets,  and  the  smaller 
channels  water-courses  to  supply  the  houses,  or  drains  to  carry 
otf  the  sewerage ;  and  lastly,  that  the  i)ebble-pavements  show  a 
remarkable  afiinity  to  tlie  foundations  of  the  tcrnxmarc,  or  pre- 
historic palustric  villages  of  Circumpadane  Italy.  The  Counts 
Gozzadini  and  Conestabile,  two  of  the  highest  authorities  in 
Etruscan  matters,  mamtain  the  sepulchral  character  of  these  cells, 
and  look  on  the  plateau  of  Misano  as  the  necropolis  of  the  ancient 
anil  nameless  town.  The  Cavaliere  Zannoni,  followed  by  the 
Abbate  Chierici  and  by  Captain  Burton,  regard  the  cells  as  the 
dwellings  of  the  earl}-  inhabitants,  and  the  site  as  that  of  the 
ancient  town.  Not  having  had  the  advantage  of  personal  exami- 
nation, I  cannot  offer  an  opinion  which  would  have  any  value, 
and  therefore  leave  the  dispute  as  I  find  it. 

On  an  upper  i^lateau  called  Misanello  there  are  more  of  the 
well-tombs  already  alluded  to.  They  are  of  various  sizes,  from 
7  to  33  feet  in  depth,  but  instead  of  being  cyhndrical  they  swell 
out  below,  the  greatest  diameter  being  near  the  bottom,  which  is 
sometimes  rounded,  and  then  the  form  is  that  of  a  mocldng-bird's 
l^endent  nest ;  sometimes  pointed,  when  the  shape  resembles  that 
of  an  ordinary  amphora.  They  are  lined  with  small  jjebbles 
without  mortar,  save  at  the  bottom,  which  is  simply  sunk  in  the 
grey  marl.  They  were  found  to  contain  human  skeletons,  some- 
times as  many  as  three,  a  large  urn,  vases  of  bronze  and  of  terra- 
cotta, sometimes  painted,  with  sundry  other  t^bjects,  notably  in 
one  instance  a  tablet  of  earthenware  bearmg  an  Etruscan  inscrip- 
tion.^ In  them  were  also  found  the  bones  of  animals  in  abund- 
ance—  of  the  ox,  sheep,  goat,  pig,  deer,  fowl,  dog,  cat,  rat,  horse. 


^  Sepulchres  approachable  by  wells,  with  resemble  the  ordinary  burial-places  of  Villa- 
small  niches  in  theii*  sides  for  the  hands  nova  and  La  Certosa.  There  is  nothing, 
and  feet,  have  been  found  on  various  .sites  so  far  as  I  am  aware,  in  Etruria  I'roper, 
in  Etnuia  Proper,  a.s  at  Ferento  (Vol.  I  y.  resembling  in  form  these  puit.s  funCrairoi 
162),  at  Alsium  (Vol.  I.  p.  223),  atChiusi,  of  :Marzabotto.  Burton,  however  (p.  118), 
(Vol.  II.  p.  Zoi)) ;  but  the  well  or  shaft  is  cites  me  to  the  contrary,  but  ihe  sepulchral 
not  the  .sepulchre  itself,  only  the  means  of  pits  I  have  described  as  existing  at  Civita 
access  to  it.  In  the  so-called  "well-  Castellana  (I.  p.  92),  are  conical  or  bell- 
tombs  "  of  Po<jgio  lienzo  near  the  latter  shaped,  like  many  of  the  Greek  tombs  at 
site,  and  at  Sarteano,  the  wells  are  mere  Syracuse  and  (iirgenti  hollowed  in  the  rock. 
Ijits,  sunk  to  the  depth  of  a  metre,  and 


CHAP.  Lxiv.]  MISAXO    AND    MISANELLO.  .>ii 

ass,  and  bear — a  discovery  which  lias  iiuhiced  some  to  (juestion 
the  sepuh'hral  character  of  these  structures,  thout^li  without 
reason,  it  appears  to  nie,  for  tlie  remains  of  tlic  edible  animals 
are  accounted  for  ])y  the  funeral  feasts  held  ;niuually  at  the 
mouth  of  the  tomb,  and  tlie  other  domestic  animals  were 
probably  slau,n"htered  to  accompany  their  masters  to  the  other 
world,  according  to  the  well-known  funei'al  custom  of  the 
nncients. 

The  most  remarkable  and  the  richest  tombs  were  on  this 
plateau  of  Misanello.  Thirty  of  these,  which  were  nu're  mounds 
■of  pebbles,  contained  entire  skeletons,  together  with  scarabs, 
■engraved  with  oriental  or  Greek  myths.  Others  constructed  of 
large  slabs  of  tufo,  arranged  so  as  to  form  a  sort  of  chest,  witli 
pointed  lid,  closely  resembUng  dolijiois,  also  contained  skeletons, 
which,  like  those  at  I.a  Certosa,  were  often  decorated  with  orna- 
ments. One  hundred  and  seventy  of  these  chest-tombs,  opened 
near  an  artificial  pond,  contained  the  remains  of  the  pyre,  to- 
gether Avitli  articles  of  various  descriptions,'  but  particularly 
painted  vases  ;  also  other  vases  of  bronze,  alabaster,  and  glass, 
mirrors  and  idols  in  bronze,  and  gold  ornaments.  Notwithstand- 
ing the  presence  of  this  sepulchral  furniture,  all  these  tombs  had 
been  ransacked  of  old,  save  one  small  one,  whicli  had  escaped 
the  riflers,  and  contained  no  fewer  than  fifty-seven  objects  in 
gold.  On  the  top  of  these  tombs  were  found  either  small 
columns,  or  spheroidal  masses  of  stone  ;  stehe  or  semat't  to  mark 
the  site  of  the  graves. 

One  monument  at  Misanello  is  remarkable.  It  is  a  mass  of 
tufo  masonry,  nearlj-  4  feet  in  height,  and  about  33  feet  square, 
carved  with  mouldings  in  the  severe  Tuscan  style,  like  the  base- 
ments of  tumuli  at  Ciere,  Tarcpiinii,  and  Yulci,  with  the  difference 
of  being  square  instead  of  circular,  Coimt  Gozzadini  sees  in 
this  relic  the  substruction  of  a  grand  sepulchre  with  a  flight  of  five 
steps  leading  to  the  platform,  for  the  annual  celebration  of  the 
silicernia.  Cavaliers  Zannoni,  on  the  contrar}',  takes  it  for  the 
basement  of  a  temple,  a  view  confirmed  by  the  discovery  on  the 
spot  of  fragments  of  columns,  and  of  a  multitude  of  tiles  and 
antelix(C,  man}'  of  the  latter  decorated  with  palmetto  leaves,  and 
a  few  with  human  faces,  all  in  relief  and  coloured.  The  tiles 
retained  traces  of  polychrome  decoration  on  the  portions  only 
that  were  left  exposed. 

As  to  the  sepulchral  furniture  on  this  site,  I  can  say  nothing 
bej'ond  what  I  learn  from  Count  Gozzadini's  description.     lie 


542  BOLOGNA.  [cHAi'.  i.xiv. 

mentions  one  Hhih-stfla,  like  tliose  from  Tja  Certosa,  bearing  the 
relief  of  a  female  figure  of  arehaic  art,  making  a  libation  before 
jmtting  the  cup  to  her  lips.  But  there  are  fifteen  cipj)}  of  tufo, 
with  architectural  mouldings  resembling  those  at  Xorchia  and 
\'ulci.  Fragments  of  painted  vases,  chieHy  kijULca,  kclchce,  slii/jyJii, 
witli  both  black  and  red  figures,  are  abundant.  There  is  a  large 
two-handled  bowl,  Avhose  body  is  formed  of  two  heads,  moulded 
and  coloured  to  the  life,  probably  representing  Dionysos  and 
Cora.  This  Hellenic  pottery  marks  the  chest  or  coffer-like 
tombs,  in  Avliich  it  was  chiefly  found,  as  contemporary  with  tliose 
of  La  Certosa.  One  fragment  bears  a  Greek  legend  recording  the 
name  of  the  potter.  On  the  foot  of  a  black  vase  is  inscribed  the 
word  "  AKirs,"  in  Etruscan  characters  ;  and  on  a  broken  tal)let  of 
terra-cotta,  found  in  a  well-tomb,  was  the  imperfect  inscrip- 
tion "...  :mkus,"  supposed  to  have  been  "  Umrus,"  or  "  Nrus," 
a  family  name.  These,  with  the  epigraph  "  aui:ssa"  on  i\  fibula, 
are  the  only  ancient  inscriptions  discovered  in  tbis  necropolis. 

Other  objects  in  terra-cotta  of  more  primitive  character  are 
Avhorls,  cylinders,  and  perforated  disks,  like  those  found  at 
Mllanova,  and  in  other  early  transapennine  cemeteries.  But 
the  greater  part  of  the  sepulchral  furniture  here  discovered  marks 
a  much  later  period.  The  bronzes  are  abundant,  and  comprise 
two  ribbed  c'lsfe,  like  those  found  at  La  Certosa  — vases  of  Etruscan 
forms,  some  adorned  with  reliefs,  others  with  incised  designs — 
mirrors  with  foliated  adornments — a  hundred  little  figures  of 
idols,  from  tombs  of  all  descriptions — two  of  large  size  of  female 
divinities,  i^robably  Persephone  or  Elpis — one  of  later  date,  of  a 
negro  boy  naked,  bearing  a  pot  on  his  shoulder — a  group  of  Mars 
and  Venus,  six  inches  high  ;  he  armed  with  helmet,  cuirass,  and 
spear;  she  draped  in  a  talaric  chiton,  and  hixmtion,  ofiering  him  a 
lihiala.  "  In  this  group,"  says  Count  Gozzadini,  "  Etruscan  art 
shows  the  progress  it  had  made  in  imitating  the  perfection  of 
Hellenic  art."  ''  There  is  also  a  votive  leg  in  high  relief,  of  such 
beauty,  that  it  might  be  taken  for  the  production  of  a  Greek 
chisel;  a  bull's  head,  finely  modelled,  and  some  thousands  of 
shapeless  pieces  of  bronze,  the  current  money  of  early  times,  with 
one  solitary  specimen  of  the  res  sirpuitnni,  a  mass  of  rectangular 
form. 

There  are,  moreover,  bracelets  of  bronze,  as  well  as  of  iron  and 

''   This  group,  reproduced  in  lironze  and  of       a  consiiicuous  object  to  travellers  passing 
a  large  size,  is  set  up  in  the  grounds  of  the       liy  the  railroad  beneath. 
Aria   Villa,  at  MarzaV)Otto,  where  it  forms 


CHAP.  Lxrv.]  PltODUCE    OP    THE    TOMBS.  543 

silver,  lanee-Iieads  and  other  weapons  of  both  bronze  and  iron  ; 
the  articles  in  iron  seeming  more  abundant  than  tliosc  of  tlie 
finer  metal.  There  are  objects  in  alabaster,  bone,  and  glass,  and 
jewellery  of  gold  in  no  small  quantity,  among  them  two  necklaces 
which  display  all  the  elegance,  richness,  and  inimital)le  workman- 
ship of  Etruscan  jewellery  ;  almost  all  from  the  CDfl'er-like  tombs 
already  mentioned. 

Besides  the  aforesaid  articles,  as  many  as  twenty -four  skulls 
were  exhumed  on  this  spot,  which  have  been  pronounced  by 
anthropologists  to  be  of  the  Umbrian  type.  Yet  the  monumental 
evidence  furnished  by  the  artificial  and  artistic  remains  is  so 
strongly  in  favour  of  an  Etruscan  origin,  that  Ave  may  confi- 
dently pronounce  this  nameless  town  to  have  been  Etruscan. 
As  the  Greek  vases  found  in  its  sepulchres  belong  to  the  third 
and  the  fourth  centimes  of  Home,  with  which  epoch  the  better 
bronzes  are  in  full  accordance,  Ave  may  safely  refer  the  antiquities 
found  at  IMar/.abotto  to  the  latest  da3's  of  Etruscan  independence 
north  of  the  Apennines,  Avhicli  came  to  an  end  on  the  invasion  of 
the  Boian  Gauls,  at  the  beginning  of  the  fourth  century  v,.c.^ 


In  reviewing  the  recent  discoveries  at  Bologna,  Ave  camiot  fail 
to  arrive  at  the  conclusion  that  the  contemporary  ciA'ilization  of 
Felsina  Avas  A'ery  inferior  to  that  of  Etruria  Proper.  Certain 
facts  are  prominent.  That  the  highest  development  of  that  civili- 
zation AA'as  attained  during  the  third  and  fourth  centuries  of 
Piome  is  proved  by  the  Greek  painted  vases  of  tliat  jieriod,  found 
in  multitudes  in  certain  of  the  cemeteries,  and  the  synchronous 
improvement  visible  to  some  extent  in  the  local  art.  No  Greek 
vases  of  the  earlier,  or  Asiatic,  style  have  been  yet  disinterred ; 
none,  so  far  as  I  haA-e  seen,  of  the  Decadence;  so  that  the  vases 
found  in  these  tombs  indicate  the  period  between  550  and  400 
B.C.;  the  latter  date  nearly  coinciding  Avitli  tlie  conquest  of 
Etruscan  Felsina  bA'  the  Boian  Gauls.  They  shoAv  also  the  date 
of  the  commercial  intercourse  of  these  northern  Etruscans  Avitli 
Greece,  Avhich  may  have  been  through  the  T'mbrian  ports  of 
Bavenna  and  Ariminium,  or  even  through  Spina  and  Atria,  or  it 
may  have  been,  and  more  probably  Avas,  indirect  through  Etruria. 

'  The  (late  of  tlie  iuvasion  of  the  Boi.in  Veii.     Corn.  Nepos  ap.  Plin.  III.  21.     Livy 

Gauls  i.s  fixc'l  by  their  destruction  of  Mel-  also  i-epresents  tlic  invassion   of   Northern 

]nim,  an  imi)ortant  city  north  of  the  Po.  Italy  liy  the  IJoiau  Oauls  as  earlier  than 

which  took  j)lace  in  the  year  3oS  (396  n.r. )  that  of  the  Senones,  who  hcsieged  Clus-iinu 

on   the  very  day  that  Cainillns  capturetl  and  destroyed  Rome.     V.  3;'. 


544  BOLOGNA.  Lchap.  lxiv. 

The  incongiiiity,  already  noticed,  as  existing  between  these  beau- 
tiful works  of  Hellenic  art  and  the  rude  pottery  and  bronzes 
foiuid  with  them,  an  incongruit}'  but  faintly  marked  on  the  other 
side  of  the  Apennines,  proves  that  at  the  period  in  question,  the 
Felsineans  were  far  behind  their  brethren  in  Etruria  Proper,  with 
■whom  they  appear  to  have  had  little  intercourse  prior  to  the  third 
•centuiy  of  Rome.  Contemporary  with  the  painted  vases  were 
the  slab-sf','^5,  the  most  characteristic  Avorks  of  Etruscan  trans- 
iipennine  art,  and  the  bronze  ciste  a  cordoni.  But  nothing  has 
yet  been  discovered  like  the  archaic  relief-bearing  cij)})}  of  Chiusi 
jind  Perugia ;  like  the  hucchcro  ware  with  its  quaint  oriental 
figures  in  relief;  nothing  like  the  primitive  seated  statue-urns 
of  fetid  limestone,  like  the  pamted  male  statue  of  the  Casuccini 
collection,  or  the  enthroned  Proserpines,  or  the  grotesque  canopi 
of  Chiusi  and  its  neighbourhood ;  nothing  like  the  bronze  and 
marble  portraits  from  the  Isis  tomb  at  Yulci.  AU  these  belong 
to  an  earlier  period  of  Etruscan  art,  which  at  Eelsina  is  repre- 
sented by  coarse  hand-made  pottery  with  geometrical  decorations, 
or  rude  attempts  at  animal  life  scratched  or  stamped  on  the 
unglazed  clay.  The  only  specimen  of  the  plastic  arts  of  Eelsina 
which  can  compete  with  the  best  toreutic  works  of  Cisapennine 
Etnu-ia  is  the  sitiila  in  the  Museo  Civico ;  but  as  this  stands 
alone  among  a  multitude  of  ruder  bronzes,  we  might  regard  it  as 
an  importation,  if  it  had  not  the  choice  bronzes  of  Marzabotto 
to  keep  it  company.  Yet  the  earliest  works  of  ceramic  and 
toreutic  art,  as  well  as  the  mode  of  their  sepulture,  revealed  by 
the  Benacci  and  Villanova  diggings,  show  so  close  an  affinity, 
amounting  even  to  identity,  with  those  of  the  most  primitive 
cemeteries  of  Etrm-ia,  at  Chiusi  and  Sarteano  for  example,  that 
we  cannot  avoid  the  conclusion  that  they  belonged  to  one  and 
the  same  people.  "AVho  were  that  people?"  is  the  question. 
"Were  they  the  Etruscans,  or  some  race  that  preceded  them  ? 
Professor  Brizio  takes  them  to  have  been  Umbrians,  and  regards 
Eelsina  as  originally  an  I'mbrian  city,  occupying  the  site  of 
Bologna,  and  all  the  cemeteries  around  it,  AA-ith  the  exception  of 
those  of  La  Certosa  and  Marzabotto  which  he  admits  to  be 
Etruscan,  as  the  burial-places  of  that  primitive  Italian  people 
before  theii-  conquest  by  the  Etruscans.'^  He  thinks  that  the 
several    cemeteries    prove    that    at    the    earHest    period    these 

'  For  his  views  on  this  subject  I  am  in-       Pcrsfveranza  of  :Milan,  of  31st  of  March, 
<lebt«d  to  his  pajiers  on  "Gli  Umbri  nella       1st,  4th,  and  7th  of  April,  1877. 
xegione  Circumpadana,"  xniblished   in  the 


CHAP.  Lxiv.]      THE    UMBRTAN    THEORY    OF    BRTZIO.  545 

Uinbrians  biiried  their  dead  just  -without  tlicir  -wiills,  aud 
gradually  extended  their  interments,  -which  sho-w  a  somewhat 
less  primitive  character  as  they  recede  from  the  cit}',  till,  at  the 
time  of  their  conquest  by  the  Etruscans,  their  cemeteries  had 
reached  the  lands  to  which  the  names  of  Arnoaldi  and  La 
Certosa  are  now  attached.  According  to  his  view,  the  Etruscans 
on  their  conquest,  finding  the  ground  unsuited  to  the  excavation 
of  caves,  adopted  the  same  mode  of  sepulture  as  their  pre- 
decessors, only  substituting  quadrangular  coffer-tombs  for  the 
pits  or  wells  of  the  Umbrians.  He  founds  his  argument  mainly 
on  the  identit}"  in  character  of  the  pottery  and  bronzes  found  in 
the  earliest  cemeteries  of  Bologna,  wdth  those  of  the  similar  well- 
tombs  of  Poggio  lienzo  and  Sarteano,  with  the  primitive  pottery  of 
other  sites  in  Etruria,  and  also  of  the  Alban  Mount  ;^  and  on  its 
utter  dissimilarity  to  that  universally  recognized  as  Etruscan, 
especially  that  designated  bucckero ;  the  difference  being  not  one 
of  period  merely,  nor  even  of  stage  of  culture,  but  of  essential 
style,  marking  a  distinct  people.  He  observes  truh'  that  the 
several  st3ies  of  art  of  the  same  race  at  different  periods  are 
bound  to  one  another  like  the  links  of  a  chain ;  and  he  maintains 
that  it  is  impossible  for  a  people,  after  having  wrought  out  a  style 
of  pottery  Avhich  had  acquired  among  them  a  sacred  and  ritual 
character,  to  abandon  it  of  a  sudden,  and  adopt  another  style  of 
fi  totally  different  character.  "  A  people  may  modif}',  develope, 
perfect,  but  can  never  utterly  cast  aside  its  own  arts  and  in- 
dustry, because  in  such  a  case  it  would  deny  its  own  individualit}'. 
AVlien  we  find,  therefore,  between  two  st3'les  of  art  so  many  and 
such  strongl}'  pronounced  discrepancies,  that  it  becomes  impos- 
sible to  perceive  the  most  remote  analogy  between  them,  it  is  not 
enough  to  attribute  such  diversities  to  a  difference  of  age,  or  stage 
of  culture;  we  can  only  ascribe  them  to  distinct  races."  The 
people  then -R^hose  sepulchral  remains  show  them  to  have  preceded 
the  Etruscans  on  both  sides  of  the  Apennines,  he  takes  to  have 
been  the  Umbrians,  -who,  history  tells  us,  Avere  conquered  by 
the  Pelasgi,  who  in  their  turn  were  driven  out  b}'  the  Etruscans. 

'  He  refers   to   the   jiots  of  the   same  witli  tlie   liut-ums  of  the  Alban  Mount, 

descriiition    presex'ved    in    the    Gregorian  He  states  also  that  lie  ha.s  seen   similar 

Museum  {ut  supra,  p.   48S),  which,   how-  pottery  at  Corneto,   in   the  possession  of 

ever,  Lear  no  indication  of  the  precise  site  the  Cauonigo  JLii-zi,  which  was  found  in  a 

on  which  each  was  found,  but  are  said  to  well-tomb  on  that  ancient  site.     For  the 

have  come  from  the  excavations  made  at  early  ware  of  the  same  character  in  the 

Cen-etri,    Yulci,    Orte,  and   liomarzo,   be-  Etruscan  Museum  at  Florence,  see  p.  Ti 

tween   1828   and    183!l.      There  are   also  of  this  volume, 
pimilar  jiots  in  the  same  ^luseum,  found 

A'OL.    11.  XX 


516  BOLOGXA.  [chap.  lxiv. 

This  view  of  the  early  cemeteries  of  Bologna  appears  to  involve 
that  of  the  comijaratively  recent  conquest  by  the  Etruscans  of  this 
transapenniue  region,  for  as  these  cemeteries  have  yielded  none 
of  the  early  works  of  that  people,  not  a  fragment  of  relieved 
hitcchero,  nor  a  single  Greek  vase  which  can  be  assigned  with  cer- 
tainty to  the  former  half  of  the  sixth  century  B.C.,  the  Etruscan 
invasion  cannot  be  dated  earlier  than  the  third  century  of  Rome. 
If  Felsina  had  received  an  Etruscan  colony  at  a  more  remote  period, 
it  is  difficult  to  account  for  the  cessation  of  intercourse  with  the 
mother-country  xip  to  the  date  specified,  an  mtercourse  which  the 
identity  in  the  modes  of  burial  and  in  the  sepulchral  furniture 
of  the  primitive  inhabitants  on  both  sides  of  the  Apennines, 
proves  to  have  existed  in  a  previous  age.  Had  that  intercourse 
been  maintained,  Felsina  would  have  kept  better  pace  Avith 
Etruria  in  culture;  she  would  have  received  the  early  as  well 
as  the  later  works  of  art  of  her  mother-Jand,  and  would  have 
been  supplied  with  Greek  vases  of  the  First  or  Asiatic  period,  as 
well  as  have  betrayed  the  influence  of  Hellenic  archaic  art  on  her 
own  productions  at  an  earlier  period  than  the  third  century  of 
Eome. 

We  have  given  one  view  of  this  question.  Count  Giancarlo 
Conestabile,  while  acknowledging  that  the  civilization  revealed 
in  the  monuments  of  Yillanova  and  the  other  early  cemeteries 
of  Bologna  is  inferior  to  that  of  Etruria  Proper  in  the  height 
of  her  domination,  and  though  he  perceives  analogies  in  the 
artistic  productions  of  both  lands,  yet  inclines  to  a  Pelasgie 
origin  for  these  early  monuments,  and  prefers  to  designate  them 
bv  the  generic  and  safer  term  of  "ancient  Italic."  Count 
Gozzadini,  who  contends  for  their  Etruscan  character,  admits 
the  inferiority  of  this  transapenniue  civihzation,  but  accounts 
for  it  by  the  comparatively  late  period  at  which  the  Felsinians 
■were  first  subjected  to  the  influence  of  Hellenic  art.  Their 
early  sepulchral  monuments  exhibit  them  m  an  ascending  phase, 
as  not  yet  having  reached  the  apogee  of  their  culture.  Yet 
they  had  already  attained  great  skill  in  the  working  of  bronze, 
which,  as  he  observes,  was  one  of  the  salient  points  of  Etruscan 
art.  And  their  civilization  was  so  far  iidvanced  that  they  could 
send  ornaments  in  that  metal,  especially  fihxda,  to  distant  lands, 
as  we  are  authorised  to  believe  from  the  discovery  of  identical 
objects  even  on  the  other  side  of  the  Alps.  These  fihuhc  are 
very  numerous,  and  display  a  great  variet}'  of  remarkable  and 
even  extravagant  forms ;  yet  such  as  Yillanova  has  yielded  in 


CHAP.  Lxiv.]  THE    ETEUSCAX    THEOEY    OF    GOZZADINI.  047 

bronze,  you  find  in  gold  in  the  Etruscan  Museum  of  Florence, 
in  the  (iregorian  Museum,  and  Barberini  collection,  at  Rome, 
and  in  silver  in  the  Museo  Civico  of  Bologna.  "Are  we  to 
believe,"  asks  Gozzadini,  "that  all  these  various  forms  have 
passed  from  one  people  to  another,  from  the  Pelasgians  or 
Umbrians  to  the  Etruscans,  rather  than  that  the^^  have  been 
preserved  by  the  same  people  from  the  earliest  times  ?  " 

M(n-eover,  bronzes  and  potter}-  of  the  same  character  as  those 
of  Mllanova  have  been  found  together  ^vith  those  of  the  pure 
Etruscan  type,  in  the  Arnoaldi  diggings,  at  La  Certosa,  and  at 
II  Sasso  in  the  lieno  valley,  and  still  more  notably  in  the  tombs 
at  the  Arsenal,  where  the  art  and  culture  of  the  Yillanova 
period  are  mingled  Avith,  and  encased,  as  it  were,  in  the  art 
and  culture  indisputably  Etruscan,  and  of  a  period  not  earlier 
than  the  third  century  of  Rome.  If  all  the  monuments  of  the 
Villanova  type  are  Pelasgic,  or  Umbrian,  where  are  those  of 
early  Etruscan  times  ? — a  most  puzzling  question  if  we  take  for 
granted,  as  Count  Gozzadini  appears  to  do,  that  Felsina  was 
founded  by  the  Etruscans  some  twelve  centuries  before  Christ." 

The  question  appears  to  me  to  hinge  on  the  date  of  the 
Etruscan  conquest  of  the  country  north  of  the  Apennines,  and 
of  the  foundation  of  the  Twelve  Cities  of  Etruria  Circumpadana. 
We  have  no  historical  records  to  guide  us  to  a  safe  conclusion 
on  this  point ;  little  more  than  the  traditions  i:)reserved  by 
Servius.  Count  Conestabile  refers  this  conquest  to  the  twelfth 
century  b.c.  or  even  earlier,  and  considers  the  products  of  the 
Scavi  Benacci  and  of  Yillanova  to  mark  an  antiquity  of  nine  or 
ten  centuries  b.c.  If  this  chronology  be  correct,  there  can  be  no 
reason  why  these  relics  should  be  ascribed  to  the  Pelasgi  or 
Umbri,  rather  than  to  the  Etruscans.  Ancient  traditions  cer- 
tainly favour  the  remote  antiquit}'  of  this  conquest,  and  make 
the  foundation  of  Felsina  coeval  Avith  that  of  Perusia.'^     But  are 


^   For  Count  Gozzadini's   arguments  on  find  in  Livy  (V.  33,  34),  who  tells  us  that 

this  subject,  to  which  I  fear  I  have  hardly  the  Gauls  on  their  first  invasion  of  Italy  in 

done  justice  in  the  text,  see  his  Mors  de  the  time  of  Tarquinius  Priscus  encountered 

Cheval  Italiques,  pp.  33-41.  and  defeated  the  Etruscans  near  the  river 

3  Servius  (ap.  Virg.  ^n.  X.  198)  records  Ticinus,  two  centuries  before  their  siege  of 

two  traditions  ;  one,  that  Ocnus,    son   or  Clusium  and  capture  of   Kome.     He  also 

brother  of  Auletes,  or  Aulestes,  who  built  asserts  that  the  Twelve  Cities  of  Northern 

Perusia,  founded  Cesena,  or  Bononia,  and  Etruria   were    so    many  colonies    of    the 

fortifieil  ^[antua   and    other   castles ;    the  Twelve  of  Etruria  Proper,  giving  us  reason 

other,  that  Mantua  was  built  by  Tarchon,  to  believe  that  Felsina  was  founded  by  a 

the  brother  of  Tyrrhenus.     The  only  his-  colony  from  Volsinii.     His  statements,  as 

torical  data  we   have  on  this  subject  we  well  as  the  traditions  recorded  ))y  .Servius, 

N   N   2 


548  BOLOGNA.  [chap.  lxiv. 

they  to  be  trusted  ?  Are  vague  traditions  to  be  received  ^vith 
as  much  confidence  as  monumental  documents  ?  The  earhest 
pottery  of  the  Felsinean  cemeteries  is  of  a  very  rude  and 
primitive  character,  contemporarv,  in  type  at  least,  Avith  the 
most  ancient  ware  found  in  Etruria,  and  in  Latium.  But  rude 
and  primitive  art  is  not  necessarily  indicative  of  a  high  antiquity ; 
though  it  is  a  proof  of  a  low  civilization.  In  this  case,  so  far  as 
we  can  learn  from  the  excavations  as  yet  made  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Bologna,  the  native  art  appears  to  have  remained 
stationary  for  centuries,  or  to  have  made  little  progress,  until  it 
suddenly  encountered  the  superior  culture  of  the  Etruscan  state, 
elevated  and  refined  by  the  influences  of  Hellenic  art,  in  the 
third  centur}^  of  Rome.  In  Etruria,  on  the  contrary,  whether 
the  primitive  pottery  of  the  well-tombs  was  Etruscan  or 
Umbrian,  it  seems  soon  to  have  given  place  to  more  highl}^ 
developed  forms,  and  never  commits  the  anachronism  of  re- 
appearing in  conjunction  with  works  of  more  advanced  art.  If 
the  Etruscan  conquest  of  these  transapennine  regions  were  as 
earl}^  as  Conestabile  surmises,  how  are  we  to  explain  the  com- 
plete separation  between  the  mother-country  and  her  colony  of 
Felsina  up  to  the  third  centur}'  of  Rome,  which  the  sepulchral 
monuments  of  that  colony  attest  ? 

I  confess  that  the  balance  of  probabihty  at  present  appears  to 
me  to  incline  to  the  Umbrian  theor}'-  of  Brizio,  though  that 
theory  involves  the  comparatively  recent  conquest  and  settle- 
ment of  Etruria  Circumpadana.  Further  researches,  it  is  to  be 
hoped,  will  throw  light  on  these  points,  and  clear  up  the  mists 
which  now  obscure  the  true  date  and  character  of  the  early 
antiquities  of  Bologna. 

are  directly  opposed  to  the  German  theory       of  tlieir  occupation  of  the  Po-vale,  prior  to 
of  the  Rhsetiau  origin  of  the  Rasena^  and       tlieir  conquest  of  Cisapennine  Etruria. 


INDEX. 


AlillADIA   all'    ISOLA. 


Abbadia  air  Isi)la,  ii.  132 

Abekeii  ou  I'liiplocton  masonry,  i.  81 ;  on  the 
Puntone  del  Castrato,  295,  296 ;  on  the 
tomb  of  Porsena,  ii.  347,  ct  xeq. 

Aborigines,  the,  with  the  Pelasi,'i  take  posses- 
sion of  Etniria,  i.  xxxiv. ;  ceiiu'teries  of,  388 

Achilles,  triumph  of,  over  Hector,  i.  ISO;  on 
vases,  ii.  113,  469;  with  Ajax,  plavim?  at 
dice,  312,  402,  475,  489;  "death  of,  463, 
473;  pursuing  Troilus,  114.  iSw  Thoilus. 
Sacritiuing  to  the  maiics  of  Patroclus,  i. 
449;  ii.  504 ;  his  coml)at  with  Meninon,467, 
with  Penthesilea,  480 

Acquapendente,  erroneous  opinions  of,  ii.  18 

Acsi,  tomb  of  the,  ii.  447 

ActDDon,  myth  of,  ou  urns,  ii.  164,  455 

Acula,  ii.  18 

Ad  Aquileia,  ii.  18 

—  Baccauas,  i.  55 

—  Herculem,  ii.  69 

—  Novas,  ii.  371 

—  Turres,  i.  226 

Admetus  and  Alcestis,  vase  of,  i.  ci. ;  on  ums, 
ii.  92,  455 

Adonis,  on  a  min-or,  i.  154 ;  ii.  429 ;  on  an 
um,  i.  480;  ii.  458 

Adria,  an  Etruscan  city,  i.  xxix.;  ii.  139; 
Etruscan  insiriptions  at,  i.  xxxviii. ;  vases 
of,  i.  xxxviii.,  471,  ii.  529;  bronzes  from,  89 

iEgina,  painted  tomb  of,  i.  38;  temple  of 
Jupiter  at,  ii.  118 

iEneas,  scenes  of  his  deeds,  i.  228  ;  repre- 
sented on  vases,  282;  ii.  404,465,  475 

iE(iuum  Faliscvmi,  i.  112,  113,  121,  123 

iEs,  grave,  in  or  hiAow  pvperino  on  the  Alban 
Mount,  ii.  458 

Ms.  rude,  ii.  80, 109,  496,  515,  522,  523,  527, 
539 

JEsar,  Etruscan  for  God,  ii.  125 

Agamemnon,  murder  of,  ii.  377 ;  tomb  of,  377  ; 
in  an  Etruscan  fresco,  505 

Agger  of  Servius  Tullius.  i.  11 

Agylla,  i.  228.     Sec  C.eke  and  Cehvetui 

Aharna,  ii.  75 

Ainsley,  Mr.,  on  the  tombs  of  Cicrc,  i.  249; 
on  the  paintings  at  Tarquinii,  325;  dis- 
coveries at  Sovana,  481 ;  li.  2,  12  ;  on  the 
Fontana,  7  ;  on  the  Grotta  Pola,  10 ;  on 
Castigliono  Beniurdi,  196,  197  ;  on  the 
Poggio  di  Vetreta.  199 

Ajax,  i.  352,  404 ;  ii.  377,  462,  465,  473,  504, 
505 


amphiaraus  and  eriphyle. 

Alabaster,  used  in  Etruscan  sculpture,  i. 
Ixxvi. ;  in  urns  of  Voltcrra,  ii.  153,  102 ; 
of  Chiusi,  301 ;  of  Cetona,  361 ;  of  Citta  la 
Pieve,  376 

Alabastra,  forms  of,  i.  cxxv. ;  painted  in  tombs, 
i.  245,  354 ;  imitation  of  Egyptian,  276, 458 

Ala)  in  an  Etruscan  tomb,  ii.  445 

Alatri,  postern  of,  ii.  119;  city-gate  of,  250, 
251  ;  bastion  of,  248 

Alba  Longa,  sepulchral  urns  of,  i.  l.xx.,  27; 
ii.  457,  545 

Alban  Lake,  prodigy  of,  i.  23 ;  Emissary  of, 
Ixiii.,  24 ;  ii.  458  fits  crater  extinct  for  ages, 
457 

Mount,  temple  of,  ii.  33 

Albano,  tomb  at,  not  Etruscan,  but  in  imita- 
tion of,  i.  454 ;  its  analogy  to  the  tomb  of 
Porsena,  454  ;  ii.  347 

Albegna,  river,  ii.  238,  275  ;  vale  of,  279 

Alberese,  ii.  235 

Alberoro,  ii.  388 

Alberti,  his  description  of  Castro,  i.  492;  of 
ruins  called  Vetulouia,  ii.  206 — 208 

Albiuia,  ii.  238 

Aleano,  or  Liano,  i.  120 

Alethnas,  familv  of,  i.  153,  191 

/Vl-ie,  i.  299 

Allia,  the,  i.  137 

AUumiere,  i.  299,  300 

Alphabet,  Etruscan,  i.  xlviii. ;  inscribed  on  a 
pot  from  Bomarzo,  172  ;  on  a  bowl  at  Gros- 
seto,  ii.  224 ;  on  slabs  at  Chiusi,  306 ;  re- 
sembles those  of  Lycia  and  Phrygia,  i.xlix. 

,  Greek,  on  the  walls  of  a  tomb  at 

Beni  Hassan,  ii.  133 

-,  Pelasgic,  on  a  pot,  i.  271 ;  ii.  483  ; 


on  the  walls  of  a  tomb,  133 
Alsietiuus,  Lacus,  i.  59,  222 
Alsium,  Pelasgic  origin  of,  i.  221 ;  local  re- 
mains, 222 ;  necropolis  of,  224.     See  Palo 
Altar  of  iron,  i.  267 
Alvattcs,   tomb  of,   at   Sardis,   i.   388,  453; 

ii.  425 :  dimensions  of,  i.  454  ;  analogy  to 

the  tomb  of  Porsena,  ii.  348 
Amazon  Sarcophagus,  tlie,  ii.  96—102,  115 
Amazons,  combat  with  Greeks,  i.  402,  403, 

404,  463,  472;  ii.  96, 115,  109,  303,  304, 423, 

471. 
Amber  in  tombs,  i.  Ixxxi.— Ixxxiii.,  221,  223, 

276 ;  ii.  341,  366, 485, 514, 515, 523, 527, 530, 

533,  534 
Ambrosch,  Dr.,  on  the  Etruscan  Charun,  ii. 

19l_19;3;  nn  Yetulonia,  197,  271 
Amphiaraus  and  Eriphvie,  on  Etruscan  urns, 

ii.  166,  312,  469 


ooO 


IXDEX. 


AMPHITUEATnES. 

-A  MrHiTHEATUKS,  antiquity  of,  i.  71 ;  of  Sutri, 
hewn  in  the  rock,  70;  its  antiquitj",  72; 
dimensions,  72;  recessed  seats,  73;  of  Vol- 
sinii,  ii.  2-5;  Luna,  65;  Florence,  75;  of 
Voltena,  149 ;  pretended  one  of  Vetulonia, 
207  ;  Kusellie,  220  ;  Ai-ezzo,  383 

Amphora,  forms  of  the,  i.  cvii.,  cviii. 

Aminglione,  polygonal  walls  of  tufo,  ii.  259 

Anipyx,  i.  307,  368,  371 

Amycus,  bound  by  Pollux,  ii.  423,  497 

Ancharia,  an  Eti-uscan  goddess,  ii.  126 

Andrea,  St.  a  ilorgiano,  Etruscan  inscription 
cut  in  rock  at,  ii.  112 

Angelotti,  Signer,  collection  of,  ii.  371 

Anio,  i.  46 

Anitianx,  quarries  of,  i.  161  ;  similar  stone 
from  ^lanziana,  162 ;  not  at  Corneto,  394  ; 
near  Bagnorea,  ii.  29,  39 

Annio  of  Yiterbo,  i.  67,  150 

Ansedonia.  ii.  245.     ISev  CoSA 

Anselmi,  Sig.,  of  Yiterbo,  the  discoverer  of 
Castel  d'Asso,  i.  183 

Antefixa;,  ii.  11,  459,  494,  496,  541 

AnteUa,  ii.  112 

Anteninse,  site  of,  i.  44 

Antilochus,  ii.  93,  467 

Antoninus,  his  villa  at  Alsium,  i.  222 ;  Itinerary 
of.     Sec  Itineraries 

Auubis-Yase,  ii.  318 

Apennines,  i.  xxxi.  ;  Etruscan  bronzes,  found 
on,  ii.  108,  also  coins,  111 ;  Etruscan  miiTor 
found  on,  89 ;  Greek  vase  from,  470 

Apliuna,  an  Etruscan  fauiilj-,  ii.  316,  317  ; 
sarcophagus  of  the,  316 

Apollo,  his  temple  on  Soracte,  i.  128,  129 ; 
colossal  statue  of,  on  the  Palatine,  Ixxiv.  ; 
head  of,  on  a  shield,  ii.  442 ;  represented 
with  the  Muses,  462  ;  seated  on  the  Delphic 
tripod,  464  ;  with  Cassandra,  468 

Apul,  or  Aplu,  Etruscan  names  of  Apollo,  i. 
Ivii. ;  on  a  niiiTor,  ii.  483 

Aqua  Yiva,  i.  122 

Aqua;  Apollinares,  i.  60,  234 

Caretes,  i.  228,  234 

Passeris,  i.  157,  176 

Tauri,  i.  299;  ii.  18 

Aqueduct  on  the  Ponte  della  Badia,  i.  443 

Aquenses,  ii.  18 

Ai'a  della  Regina,  i.  426.     See  TAEQriMi 

Ara  Mutia-,  i.  57 

AnCH,  date  of  its  invention,  i.  Isvii.,  266; 
practised  by  the  Etruscans,  Ixvii.,  39,  160; 
ii.  145,  338,  339,  401,  451  ;  found  in  con- 
nection with  i)olygonal  masoniy  in  Greece 
and  Asia,  i.  Ixvii.  :  ii.  250 ;  approximation 
to  the  principle  of,  i.  38 ;  ii.  407 ;  pseudo-  j 
arches,  i.  Ixviii.,  223,  242,  265 ;  ii.  42,  124,  1 
132,  410 

of  Augustus,  ii.  418.     five  Peucoia 

Architectuue,  Etruscan,  i.  Ixiv.  202  ;  inii- 
taled  by  the   Romans,   99,    157 ;    painted,    | 
Ixv.  313,  315, 393, 398  ;  ii.  10  ;  to  be  learned    I 
from  tombs,  i.  l.xv.,  241  1 

Architrave  of  cimcifonn  blocks,  i.  159 ;   ii.    I 
150  j 

Ardea,  ancient  walls  of,  i.  60  | 

Akezzo,  ii.  379;    inns,  380;    its  wall  three 
times  destroyed,  392  ;  not  of  Etniscan  con-    , 
struction,  3&'2  ;  excavations  at,  383  ;  Musco 
Pubblico,  385-389  ;  not  tlie  site  of  the  Eti-us-    ■ 


can  city,  389 ;  but  of  one  of  the  Roman 
colonies,  393;  discovery  of  ancient  walls 
near,  390.     Sie  AHUETriM 

Argonauts  in  Etruria,  ii.  236 

Ariadne,  i.  405 

Aril,  Etruscan  name  of  Atlas,  ii.  482 

Ariosto,  his  jdctures  from  Etiuscau  tombs,  i. 
335 

Arlena,  i.  489 

Arm-chaii-s  of  rock,  in  tombs,  i.  239,  240,  256, 
276 

Armenia,  pit-huts  of,  analogous  to  Etruscan 
tombs,  i.  278 

Armenian  language,  its  supposed  affinity  to 
the  Etruscan,  i.  1. 

Armour,  Etruscan,!.  37,  253,  413  ;  ii.  102,  476 

Arna,  ii.  425 

Amine,  i.  439 

Arno,  ii.  69,  75,  109 

Arnoaldi,  excavations  of,  at  Bologna,  ii.  529 ; 
slabs  with  inscriptions,  530 ;  pottery,  530 

Arpinuni,  walls  of,  i.  80 

Akretium,  i.  Ixxiv.;  ii.  379;  ^vi^e  of,  380; 
history,  380  ;  one  of  the  Twelve,  380 ;  thi'ee 
Roman  colonies  of,  381,  389  ;  pottery,  85, 
383,  384 ;  of  Roman,  not  Etruscan  manu- 
facture, 384 ;  found  on  other  sites,  373,  3S4 ; 
walls  of  brick,  382  ;  necropolis,  384 ;  coins, 
385;  site    not  yet  determined,   390,  393. 

f^CC  .A.REZZO 

Arretium  Fidens,  ii.  371,  381,  389,  393 

Juliuni,  ii.  381,  389,  393 

Arringatore,  or  Orator,  statue  of  the,  ii.  95 
Arsenal,  at  Bologna,  scavi  at,  ii.  533 
Arsian  wood,  i.  243,  422 
Art,  Etruscan,  styles  of.  i.  Ixxii.  ;  plastic  arts, 

Ixx.    Ixxiii. ;    toreutic,  Ixxiii ;    sculptural, 

Ixsv. ;    on  scarabei,  Ixxvi. ;    iu  jewellery, 

Ixxxi. ;    on  mii-rors,  Ixxviii. ;  in  painted. 

tombs,  Ixxxiv. ;  on  vases,  Ixxxvi. 
Artena,  site  of,  lost,  i.  2S4 
Aruspex,  head  of,  on  coins,  ii.  63,  65  ;  figure 

of,  iu  bronze,  478 ;  in  fresco,  507 
Aryballos,  foi"ms  of,  i.  cxxiv. 
Ascolia,  game  of,  in  an  Etruscan  tomb,  ii. 

342 
Ash-chests,  ii.  90,  162.     SceVms 
Asinalunga,  tombs  at,  ii.  373 
Askos,  forms  of,  i.  cxxv. 
Aspcndus,  theatre  of,  i.  161 
Assos,  reliefs  from,  i.  391,  416  ;  ii.  352 
Assyrian  analogies  in  Etruscan  art,  i.  Ixxi. ; 

ii.  315,  362,  490,  503  _ 

Astragali,  or  knuckle-bones  in  tombs,  ii.  190 
Astrone,  tombs  near  the.  ii.  359,  364 
Astronomical  siience  of  Etruria,  i.  Ixii. 
Atalanta,  ii.  430 
Athens,  size  of,  i.  15 ;  ancient  pavement  at, 

ii.  118  ;  vases  of,  i.  xci.  xciii.  c. 
Athletes,  ii.  333,  473 

Atrcus,  treasury  of,  i.  268,  386  ;  ii.  154,  155 
Atria,  an  Etruscan  town,  i.  xxix.  See  Adria 
Atrium  in  Etruscan  houses,  i.  Ixv. ;  shown  in 

tombs,  238,  256 ;  ii.  340,  350 
Atropos,  ii.  430 
Augurs,  i.  333 :  ii.  507 
Augury,  Etruscan  skill  in,  i.  xlii. 
Augustine,  St.,  legend  of,  i.  432 
Aulcs.  ii.  4.34 
Aurinia,  ancient  name  for  Saturnia,  ii.  285 


INDEX. 


5.-)l 


AVltOUA. 

Aurora,  tailed  Tliesan   by  the  Etruscans,  i. 

Iviii. ;    ii.  482 ;    rising  "from  the  sea,   1G4  ; 

driving  her  ijuiidrifin,  4S3  ;  mourning  over 

her  son  ileninon,  4liG  ;  carrj  ing  his  corpse, 

on  a  mirror,  481 
Aiisar,  ii.  70 

Aventine,  singular  tomb  on  the,  i.  392 
Avvolta,  Sig.  C,  i.  30-i,  340,  385,  389;  his 

■\varrioi--tomb,  3S8 
Axes  in  bronze,  ii.  olG,  J31,  o36 
Axia,  Castellum,  i.  184 
Aztecs,  their  cominitation  of  time,  i.  Ixii. 


B. 


Babe,  Etruscan  figure  of,  swaddled,  ii.  188, 
459;  bodies,  not  burnt,  459 

Baecano,  extinct  crater  of,  i.  4,  55 ;  lake  of, 
56,  59  ;  inn,  bo 

Bacchic  rites  introduced  into  Etruria,  i.  324  ; 
scenes  in  Etruscan  tombs,  321,  326,  365 ; 
on  vases,  xciii.  ci.  39  ;  ii.  471,  473 

Bacchus,  the  Etruscan,  i.  Ivii. ;  in  a  galley,  i. 
409 

,  the  Horned  or  Hebon,  i.   401,   403, 

406,  407,  415  ;  ii.  366,  404,  476 

,  the  Indian,  in  an  Etruscan  tomb,  i.  385 

and  Ariadne,  ii.  431 

Bacciacciano,  well-tombs  at,  ii.  365 

Bacucco,  Le  Casacce  di,  i.  156;  supposed  site 
of  Aquffi  Passeris,  157 

Badiola,  ii.  263 

Baglioni,  Count,  ii.  4^5 

Bagnaja,  i.  173 

Bagnorea,  ii.  26,  39  ;  (luarries  at,  39 

Bagui  di  Ecrrata,  i.  299 

della  Kegina,  ii.  253 

di  BoscUc,  ii.  225 

del  Sasso,  i.  228,  234 

di  Saturnia,  ii.  288 

delle  Serpi,  ruins  of,  i.  157 

di  Vicarello,  i.  60  ;  ii.  496 

Bagno  Sccco,  at  Saturnia,  ii.  278 

Baldelli,  on  the  tombs  of  Cortona,  ii.  284,  409 

Balneum  Kegis,  ii.  26,  39.     8cc  Bagirorea 

Banditaccia,  i.  237.     Sec  C-kke 

Banuuets,  Etruscan,  depicted  on  walls  of 
tombs,  i.  247,  306,  313,  314,  316,  319,  337, 
346,  348,  357,  358,  373,  394,  396,  398,  400 ; 
ii.  51,  56,  325,  343;  represented  in  the 
recumbent  figures  on  sanoi)hagi  and  ums, 
i.  475,  477;  ii.  90,  179,  305,  438;  on  a 
stele,  112;  on  a  slab,  315;  on  vases,  470; 
expressive  of  glorification  and  apotheosis,  i. 
322,  477 ;  ii.  326 ;  women  at,  i.  309 ;  by 
lamplight,  248,  308;  Koman,  310 

Barbers,  introduced  into  Italy,  i.  381;  ii.  112 

Bargagli,  Cav.,  Etruscan  urns  of,  ii.  364 

Basilicata,  vases  of,  i.  xcv. 

Bassanello,  i.  120 

Bassano,  i.  145;  lake  of,  142 

Baths,  ancient,  i.  157,  176,  104,228,234,299; 
ii.  150,  202,  290 

Bath-scenes  on  vases,  ii.  473 

Bazzicheili,  Sig.  Cr.,  discovers  ^lusania,  i.  188  ; 
Ms  collection  at  Viterbo,  153 

Beard,  not  a  safe  test  of  the  antiquity  of  Etrus- 
can monuments,  i.  381 ;  ii.  112,  187 

Begoe,  the  nymph,  i.  Ixiv.,  478;  ii.  112 


i:ols::na. 

Belmonte,  i.  57 

Belnria,  ii.  200,  201 

]}enacci,  scavi,  ii.  531 

Benches  of  rock  in  tombs,  i.  37,  171,  181,  218, 
244,  247,  250,  275,  277  ;  ii.  352 

Beni  Hassan,  alphabetical  tomb  of,  ii.  133 

Betham,  Sir  William,  i.  xxxix. ;  his  comi)ass, 
ii.  105 ;  interiiretation  of  Etruscan  inscrip- 
tions, 171,  424 ;  on  the  bilingual  inscrip- 
tion in  the  Grotta  Volunni,  answered  by 
Vermiglioli,  441 

Bettolle,  ii.  373 

Bibbona,  an  Etruscan  site,  ii.  89,  202 

BiEDA,  the  ancient  Blera,  i.  207;  ancient 
bridges  at,  209,  213;  roads  sunk  in  the 
rock,  209,  210,  214 ;  necroi)olis,  208,  214— 
218;  IJuUeof,  210 

S.  Giovanni  di,  i.  218 

Biers  of  bronze,  i.  267  ;  ii.  361,  475 

Biua,  in  i)ainted  tomljs.  i.  3()S.  317,  372,  374: 
ii.  51,  54,  323,  331,  342;  on  ums,  ii.  177; 
on  stcltc,  520,  521 

,  lloman,  in  the  Gregorian  Jfusenm,  ii. 

481  ;  in  the  Capitol  iluscum,  493 

BiLiNCiUAL  inscription  in  tlic  Museo  Civico 
of  Chiusi,  ii.  306  ;  in  the  Ueposito  de'  iJei, 
343 ;  at  Chianciano,  370 ;  at  Arczzo,  3S4, 
388 ;  in  the  Grotta  Volunni,  440 ;  in  the 
Gregorian  Museum,  456 

Bin  Tepe,  i.  3S8,  454 

Birch,  Ur.,  on  ancient  pottery,  i.  cvi.  cxvi. 
cxviii.  c.Yxi. 

Birds  in  the  hands  of  female  statues,  i.  460; 
ii.  343 

of  divination,  ii.  175,  331 

Bisellium  in  the  Etruscan  Museum  of  the 
Capitol,  ii.  493  ;  on  the  Certosa  aiiultt,  525 

Bisentino,  isle  of,  i.  494 ;  ii.  30 

Blayds,  Mr. ,  wonderful^' /y^/w  once  in  possession 
of,  ii.  485 

Blera,  i.  207.     See  Bieda 

Boar-hunts  on  Etruscan  monuments,  i.  308, 
372,  397  ;  ii.  175,  462 

Boar  of  Calvdon,  on  Etruscan  imis  or  vases, 
ii.  93,  113,  175,  424,  447,  465 

Boats,  Etruscan,  i.  312 

Boccanera,  Sig.,  discovei-s  the  Grotta  delle 
Lastre  Dipinte,  i.  257 

Boian  Gauls,  their  conquest  of  Etruscan  Fel- 
sina,  ii.  510,  543 

Bologna,  ii.  509 ;  an  Etniscan  city,  510 ;  ex- 
cavators of  its  necropolis,  512  ;  Villanova, 
512 — 517;  early  Etruscan  origin,  517;  La 
Certosa,  517 — .519;  tombs,  518;  Museo 
Civico,  519;  the  stc/fC  or  tombstones,  519; 
cinerary  urns,  522  ;  tombs  and  their  occu- 
piuits,  523;  the  Sitit/a,  523—526;  Greek 
j>.)ttery,  527;  Scavi  Arnoaldi,  529;  Scavi 
Benacei,  531 ;  De  Luca,  532 ;  dell'  Arsenale, 
533;  Malvasia-Tortorelli,  534;  S.  llome- 
nico,  535;  foundry-deposit,  536;  Marza- 
botto,  537;  Misano,  5:i8;  Misauello,  540; 
Umbrian  theory  of  Brizio,  544;  Eti'uscan 
theory  of  Gozzadini.  546 

BoLSE.NA,  roads  to,  ii.  18;  not  the  site  of 
Etruscan  Volsinii,  23;  researches  of  tiolini 
21;  lloman  remains  at,  21 — 26;  niiraclo 
of,  28  ;  inn,  28.     .Vir  Yolsixii 

,  Lake  of,  an  extinct  crater,  ii.  29 

floating  islands,  29 


552 


INDEX. 


BoitARZO,  Etruscan  town  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of,  i.  165;  accommodation  at,  165; 
ancient  name  unknown,  166 ;  excavations, 
167;  tombs  open,  167 — 171;  bronze  shield, 
171  ;  pot  inscribed  with  the  Etruscan 
alphabet,  172  ;  reliefs  in  bronze,  ii.  486 

Bombjlios,  fomis  of,  i.  cxxv. 

Bonap:irte,  Lucien,  i.  446.  Sec  Canine,  Prince 
of 

■ — -  family  portraits  of,  i.  469 

Bone,  Etruscan  articles  in,  ii.  496 

Bononia,  ii.  510 

Books,  Etruscan  ritual,  i.  Ixi. 

Borghetto,  ruins  at,  i.  139 

Borgo,  il,  ii.  134 

Unto,  ii.  121 

Borselli,  Dr.,  vases  of,  ii.  366 

Boucranion,  an  architectmal  ornament,  i.  104. 

Boustrophedon  insci-iption  in  Etruscan,  ii. 
318  :  in  Greek,  489 

Boxers  depicted  in  Etruscan  tombs,  i.  317, 
364,  378,  399  :  ii.  324,  332,  342  ;  Etruscan, 
exhibited  in  Eome,  i.  70 

BraccLino,  extinct  cniter,  i.  4 

,  Lake  of,  i.  59 ;  ancient  to^vn  en- 
gulfed in,  59 

Braccio,  Tuscan,  its  agreement  with  ancient 
measures,  i.  66  ;  ii.  339,  408 

Bracelets,  gold,  in  Etruscan  tomb,  ii.  28 ; 
Gaulish,  found  on  a  hill-slope,  130 ;  of  iron 
and  bronze,  515 

Branchida?,  statues  on  the  Sacred  "Waj-jii.  314 

Braun.  Dr.  E.,  on  the  bronzes  of  Monte  Fal- 
terona,  ii.  110;  on  the  Etniscan  Charun, 
191 — 193;  on  a  relief  with  the  device  of 
Vetulonia,  273;  on  the  tomb  of  Porsena, 
348 ;  on  the  urns  of  Cetona,  360 ;  on  his 
vase  of  Admetus  and  Alcestis,  i.  ci. ;  his 
death,  ii.  128 

Braziers,  ii.  80,  481,  488 

Breast-garlands,  i.  394.  476 

Breast-plate  of  gold,  i.  268,  269 ;  ii.  485 

Bricks,  antiquity  of,  i.  13;  in  the  walls  of 
Anetium,  ii.  382 

Brick- work,  imitation  of,  in  Grotta  Sergardi, 
ii.  410 

Bridges,  of  wood  and  stone,  i.  14 ;  natural, 
439,  501  ;  ruins  of  ancient,  at  Veil,  10,  13, 
14 ;  at  Fallcri,  97 ;  at  Yuki,  447 ;  at  Bieda, 
209,213;  Boman,  62, 142 ;  ii.  238  ;  at  Santa 
Marinella,  i.  294;  arched  at  Xerokampo, 
near  Sparta,  i.  Lxvii ;  ii.  250 

BiiiTisii  Museum,  copies  of  paintings  in 
Etruscan  tombs,  i.  320,  325,  326,  327,  368, 
374,  448,  465  ;  sarcophagus  from  Bomarzo, 
i.  170;  sarcophagus  of  tena-cotta  from 
Cervetri,  i.  2«0;  bronzes  from  M.  Faltc- 
rona,  ii.  1 1 1 ;  head  of  Ilypnos  from  Pei-ugia, 
425  ;  reliefs  in  silver  from  Perugia,  427 

Brizio,  Sig.  E..  on  tile-paintings,  i.  258 ;  on 
the  tombs  of  Tarquinii,  312,  318,  376,  377 ; 
on  the  Sitiila  at  Bologna,  ii.  525 ;  on  the 
Greek  vixses  found  at  Bologna,  528 ;  his 
Umbrian  theory,  536,  544 

BroUo,  ii.  87,  373" 

Bronze,  Etruscan  skill  in  working,  i.  Ixxiii. ; 
group  of  Venus  and  Cupid,  415 

Bronzes  at  A'itcvbo,  i.  154;  of  Bomarzo,  171 ; 
of  Cervetri,  2ti7  ;  of  Corneto,  406,  411,  413, 
415 ;  of  Vulci,  460  ;  in  the  Museum  of  Flo- 


rence, ii.  86,  102;  of  M.  Falterona,  111; 
of  VolteiTa,  189  ;  of  Cliiusi,  309  ;  of  Cor- 
tona,  401  ;  of  Perugia,  426  ;  in  the  Gre- 
gorian Museum.  475 ;  in  the  Kinheriau 
Museum,  496 — 503 ;  of  Bologna,  515,  523, 
526,  530 — 537 ;  of  Maizabotto,  542 ;  from 
the  Tyrol,  i.  xxxvii. 

Bi-unn,  Dr.  H.,  on  vases  found  in  Etruscan 
tombs,  i.  xc. ;  on  Etruscan  wall-paintings 
at  Veil,  i.  38 ;  on  the  tombs  of  Tarquinii, 
334,  340,  368,  370,  375,  381  ;  on  the  figures 
in  tUe-p.iintings,  260  ;  on  a  bronze  group, 
415 ;  on  the  incongruity  of  the  native  art 
in  Etruria, 280  ;  on  chiaro  oxcuro  in  Etrus- 
can paintings,  ii.  60 ;  on  the  Tomba  del 
Colle  Casuccini,  327  ;  on  the  Monkey-tomb 
at  Chiusi,  335  ;  on  a  sarcophagus  at  Pei-ugia, 
433;  on  the  beard  as  a  test  of  antiquity, 
i.  381 ;  on  the  Vulcian  frescoes,  ii.  508 

Bruschi,  Grotta,  i.  412. 
Museo,  i.  406.     See  Museo 

Bucchero,  Etruscan,  or  black  potterv,  i.  cv. ; 
ii.  47,  75—80,  318 ;  how  baked,  307 

Bucci,  Sig.,  excavations  of,  i.  299;  his  shop 
at  Civita  Vecchia,  299. 

BucceUi,  Palazzo,  relics  in,  ii.  371 

Buche  delle  Fate,  at  Fiesole,ii.  123  ;  at  Popu- 
lonia,  219 

dei  Saracini,  ii.  157 

BuUeame,  i.  57,  176 

Bulla',  worn  by  Eti'uscan  boys,  i.  354  ;  ii.  479 

Bull-fights  on  Etruscan  urns,  ii.  175 

Bulls  with  human  heads,  ii.  366 

Bunbury,  Mr.,  on  ancient  masonry  in  Etruria, 
i.  66,  291 ;  on  the  walls  of  lluselhe,  ii.  227; 
on  Cosa,  260 

Bunsen,  Baron,  on  Etruscan  niiiTors,  i.  Ixxx. ; 
on  vases,  xciii.,  463  ;  on  the  tombs  of  Tar- 
quinii, 376  ;  on  Yolsinii,  ii.  23  ;  on  poly- 
gonal walls  ill  Italy,  257 

Buonarroti,  Etruscan  inscriptions  seen  bv, 
i.  63,  119;  ii.  112 

Palazzo,  warrior  in,   ii.   106,  125, 

188 

Burial  of  the  corpse  entire,  i.  27 ;  in  armour, 
37,  253,  388,  413;  within  city-walls,  92, 
428 

Burning  the  dead,  i.  27  ;  in  many  cases  coeval 
with  burial,  27,  39  ;  commonly  practised  at 
Volaterrae,  ii.  152 ;  at  Clusium,  302 ;  at 
Perusia,  422 ;  at  Tillauova  and  Marzabotto, 
518 

Bust  of  an  Etruscan  lady,  i.  460 

Bustum,  i.  456 

Butarone,  il,  ii.  378 

Butcher's  shop  in  a  tomb,  ii.  52 

Buttresses  in  city-waUs,  ii.  391 

Bvres',  Mr.,  work  on  the  tombs  of  Tarquinii, 
'i.  340—345,  385,  392,  398 


Cai'.eiiii,  worsliip  of  the,  in  Etruria,  i.  Iviii. ; 
ii.  120,  144 

Cabiric  origin  of  the  Etnisean  Charun,  accord- 
ing to  E.  Braun,  ii.  191,  193 

Cadmus,  on  Etruscan  uras,  may  also  be  Jason, 
or  Edietlos,  ii.  106, 165,  166  ;  most  common 
on  imis  of  teiTa-cotta,  305 


INDEX. 


553 


Ciwina,  family  of,  ii.  25 ;  tombs  of  the,  152, 
153  ;  urns  of,  in  niusenm  at  Voltorni,  185 

,  a  river  of  Etruiia,  ii.  185,  11)5,  201 

Cii'les  Vibenna,  dupicted  on  the  wall  of  an 
EtrusL-an  tomb,  i.  449 ;  ii.  50(5 ;  his  name 
on  an  Etrusoan  urn,  94.     iSec  Vi]i]:nn.\ 

CviCKE,  anciently  Ajrylla,  i.  228;  name  changed 
into  Cicre,  2;il ;  history  of,  2:50;  ancient 
paintings  at,  mentioned"  by  I'liny,  l.x.wiv., 
231,  249,  279  ;  abstained  fn.m  piracy,  231 ; 
in  alliance  with  liome,  liv.,  232;  with 
Etruscan  cities,  421,  423;  privileges  of, 
233;  rebellion  punished  by  Kome,  233; 
baths,  234  ;  excavations  on  site  of  the  city, 
234  ;  local  remains,  23(5 ;  walls  and  gates, 
236  ;  La  Uanditaueia,  237  ;  tombs,  238 ; 
Grotta  della  Sedia,  239  ;  Grotta  dellc  cinque 
Sedie,  240 ;  Grotta  dell'  Alcova,  240 ;  Tomb 
of  the  Tarquins.  242  :  (irotta  de'  Sarcofagi, 
245;  Grotta  del  Triclinio,  247;  Grotta  dei 
Itilicvi,  249 ;  Grotta  delle  Sedie  e  Scudi,  255 ; 
Grotta  delle  Lastre  Dipinte,  257 ;  Grotta 
Regulini-Galassi,  2(54 ;  Alonte  Abatonc, 
273 ;  Grotta  Campana,  274  ;  Grotta  della 
Sedia,  Monte  d'  Oro,  275;  Grotta  Torlonia, 
277 ;  pictorial  art,  278  ;  pottery,  282.  Sec 
Cervetri 

Cioritan  franchise,  i.  233 

Cccritis  Amnis,  i.  228 

Caina,  an  Etmscan  name  preserved,  ii.  416 

Caldanc,  le,  ii.  202,  209 

Caldrons  of  bronze,  i.  268  ;  ii.  475 

Caletra,  i.  497;  ii  208,  289 

Camars,  the  ancient  name  of  Clusium,  ii.  292, 
365 

Camertcs  of  Umbiia,  ii.  292,  328 

Caniillus,  cajjtures  Veil,  i.  (5,  24 ;  cuniculus  of, 
7,  8,  24,  58,  90;  rescues  Sutrium,  68;  cap- 
tures Nepi,  83,  85;  besieges  Falcrii,  108; 
his  mag^ianimity,  109  ;  triumph,  313 

Campagna,  delights  of  the,  i.  33,  45,  52,  117  ; 
contrast  of  its  condition  in  ancient  and 
modern  times,  16,  53  ;  shepherd  life  on  the, 
17 

Campagnano,  i.  56 

Campana  tomb  at  Yeii,  i.  32—42 ;  tombs  at 
C;ere,  249,  274 

Canipanari,  his  painted  tomb  at  Vulci,  i.  465  ; 
excavations  at  Vulci,  448,  455 ;  at  Tosca- 
nella,  484 ;  at  Famese,  490  ;  at  Pontc  S. 
Pietro,  498  ;  his  garden  at  Toscanella,  474  ; 
tomb  in  it,  475 ;  the  brotlicrs,  474 

Campiglia,  ii.  202,  206  ;  tombs  in  its  neigh- 
bourhood, 208 :  lloman  remains,  209  ; 
ancient  mines,  209  ;  Vecchia,  209 

Campo  Santo  of  Pisa,  Etruscan  urns  in,  ii.  72 

Camuscia,  tomb  at,  ii.  409 

Candelabra,  Etruscan,  i.  l.x.xiv.  248,  308 ;  ii. 
190,  478,  479  ;  vases  attached  to,  i.  248 

Candles,  ii.  58 

Canina,on  the  invention  of  the  arch,i.  l.wiii., 
on  the  Ponte  Sodo  at  Veii,  It;  on  the 
ampliitheatre  of  Sutri,  71;  on  emplectou 
masonry,  80;  the  walls  of  Nepi,  83;  the 
Porta  di  Giove  at  Falleri,  102;  the  walls  of 
Falerii,  89  ;  of  Falleri,  106  ;  tlie  theatre  of 
Ferento,  160  ;  on  the  Anitian  quarries,  162, 
ii.  39;  on  Cortuosa  and  Contenebra,  i.  195, 
204;  the  site  of  Graviscip,  435  ;  Pyrgi,  291, 
293;  the  Kegulini-Gala.-isi  tomb,  266;  aque- 


CASTELNVOVO. 

duct  of  the  Pontc  della  liadia,  443;  Grotta 
della  Colonna,  167  ;  on  Valintaiio,  494 

Canino,  the  site  of  an  Etruscan  town,  i.  468 

:Monti  di,  i.  468 

Prince  of,  i.  446;  excavations,  448,  450 

Canopi,  fouiul  at  Cervetri,  i.  240;  in  the 
Museum  at  Florence,  ii.  78,  85;  in  the 
Museum  at  Chiusi,  299, 308,  341 ;  similarity 
of  Schliemann's  "  owl-faced  "  jjots  to,  309 

Canosa,  tomb  at,  like  Etruscan,  i.  210 

Cajialbio,  i.  497 

C.'apancus,  struck  by  lightning,  ii.  167 

Capanne,  i.  17;  analogy  to  tombs,  l.xix.,  278 

C.vi'ENA,  history  of,  i.  124;  name  is  Etruscan, 
124;  site  ditlicult  of  access,  126;  local  re- 
mains, 131 ;  excavations,  132 

Capena,  Porta,  i.  126 

Capistmm,  the,  i.  308,  316  ;  ii.  315,  333 

Capital  of  Paris  and  Helen,  i.  466,  481 

Capitals,  other,  with  heads  as  decorations,  ii. 
10,  188,  241 

Capitol,  temple  of  the,  built  by  the  Etruscans, 
1.  Ixiv. ;  its  connection  with  Etruria,  40; 
ii.  25,  33,  507 

Capranica,  i.  79 

Capraruola,  i.  63 

Caprium,  or  Cerium,  ii.  21 

Capua,  built  by  the  Etruscans,  i.  xxix.;  amphi- 
theatre of,  72 ;  vases  of,  sought  by  the  llo- 
nians,  xcvii. 

Cardetelle,  Lc,  tombs  at,  ii.  359 

Careiio,  i.  55,  61 

Caria,  i.  xlii. 

Caricatures,  Etruscan,  i.  168  ;  on  Greek  vases, 
ii.  461,  472 

Carpentum,  ii.  183 

Cars,  Etruscan,  in  funeral  processions,  ii.  183  : 
for  fumigating  tombs,  i.  461 

Carthage,  treaty  of  Etruria  with,  i.  Ixi., 
alliance  with^  232;  cromlechs  in  territory 
of,  ii.  287 

Casalta,  vases  found  at,  ii.  373 

Casket,  see  Cista 

Cassandi-ii,  i.  406,  449  ;  ii.  303,  313,  365,  504 

Castagneto,  ii.  202 

Castanets,  used  by  Etruscan  dancers,  i.  320, 
371 ;  depicted  as  suspended  in  tombs,  245 

C.\STEL  d'  Asso,  or  Castellaccio,  i.  175;  its 
sepulchres,  176  ;  inscriptions,  180,  186;  ex- 
cavations, 182 ;  discovery  of,  183 ;  tlic 
ancient  town,  probably  Castellum  Axia, 
184;  roads  to,  175;  guide,  175;  vases  and 
bronzes,  153  ;  fascinum  at,  182  ;  ii.  119 

Castel  Cardinale,  i.  190 

Giorgio,  ii.  47,  48 

Giubileo,  site  of  Fidena;,  i.  46,  49 

di  Mariano,  bronzes  of,  ii.  427 

di  Santa  Elia,  i.  87 

Vetro,  bronzes  found  at,  i.  xxxvii. 

Castellani,  Sig.,on  ancient  jewellery,  i.  Ixxxi. 
— Ixxxiv.  ;  his  Etruscan  collection  on  the 
Capitol,  ii.  4S8 

Castellina  del  Cliianti,  cr\-i)t  at,  ii.  124 

CastcUina,  La,  i.  426 

Castelluccio,  ii.  367 

Castellum,  Amerinum,  i.  142  ;  not  Baes-ano, 
but  near  Orte,  145 

Axia,  i.  184.     Sec  C.^stel  d*  Asso 

Politianum,  ii.  371 

Castelnuovo,  ii.  195 


554 


INDEX. 


C  A>TELNVOVO. 

Caste luuoTo  dell'  Abate,  tombs  at,  ii.  134 

Castles.  Ktmscin,  i.  x.xxii.,  liiO ;  ii.  19S 

Casti^lioncel  del  Trinoio,  ii.  367 

Castiglione  lieniardi,  pretended  site  of  Vctu- 
lonia,  ii.  196,  197 

della  Pescaja,  ii,  222 

Castro,  destruction  of,  i.  491  ;  site,  491  ;  de- 
scribed by  Alberti,  492;  remains  at,  491 

Castrum  luui,  i.  297 

Novum,  i.   296;    confounded  with 

Castiuni  Inui,  297 

Casuccini  collection,  the.  ii.  314 ;  statue-ums, 
314;  archaic  eij)pi,3\5;  Etiuscan  warrior, 
316;  sarcophagus  of  the  Aphuna,  316; 
unis,  317  ;  black  wiu'c  of  Cliiusi,  318 ; 
painted  vases,  319 

Catacombs  in  Etruria,  i.  69 ;  ii.  294,  337 

Catania,  theatre  of,  i.  73 

Cathedral  of  Ometo,  ii.  61 

Catherwood,  Mr.,  his  sketches  of  monuments 
in  the  territory  of  Carthage,  ii.  287 

Cats  depicted  in  Etruscan  tombs,  i.  319,  324  ; 
ii.  -57 

Cattle  in  Val  di  Chiana,  u.  372,  373 

Cava  della  t^ciglia,  tombs  at,  i.  299 

Cavtedium  displuA-iatum,  exemplitied  in  Etnis- 
can  tcmbs,  i.  204,  392 

Cecchetti,  I'alazzo,  vault  in  the,  ii.  400 

Cefalu,  i.  216 

Ceilings,  coffered  in  tombs,  i.  339:  ii.  323, 
3.50,  441 ;  decoi-ated  with  Ian  patterns,  i. 
239,  274,  448 

Ceises,  tomb  of  the,  at  Castcl  d'  Asso.  i.  186  ; 
at  Perugia,  ii.  446 

Celcre,  i.  48 » 

Cemeteries,  Etruscan,  position  of,  i.  25,  273 ; 
of  the  aborigines  of  Italy,  388 

Centaur  in  a  painted  tomb,  ii.  267 

Centaurs,  peculiarities  of,  Etruscan,  ii.  174, 
267,  304.  363:  and  Lapitha;  on  Etruscan 
urns.  i.  403,  410;  ii.  164,  301,  423;  on  vases, 
ii.  113 

Centiuu  C'ella;,  i.  298.     See  Ci\ita  Vecchia 

Cerberus  on  Etniscan  monuments,  i.  253, 404, 
408 ;  on  a  viue,  ii.  470 

Ceremony,  etpuology  of,  i.  233 

Ceres  depicted  in  an  Etruscan  tomb,  i.  384 

Ceri,  i.  2:i4 

Certosa,  La,  ii.  517 

Cervethi,  i.  227 ;  road  to,  228 ;  accommoda- 
tion ut,  229  ;  cicerone,  229.     Sec  Cere 

Cesena,  the  original  name  of  Uologna,  ii.  510 

Cetox.\,  an  Etruscan  site,  ii.  359 ;  tlie  Ter- 
rosi  collection,  359  ;  cinerary  urns,  360 ; 
ivoi-y  cup,  361 :  Eoman  statue  at,  363 

"Chalchas,"  di\-ining  from  entrails,  ii.  482 

Chaplets  in  Etruscan  tombs,  i.  313,  319,  360, 
366,  376,  377,  394 :  soiuetinics  resembling 
serpents.  332  ;  Greek  and  Koman,  394 

Chariot  of  bronze,  ii.  368 

Charon,  the  Etruscan,  i.  Ix.  36,  331,  385,  413, 
not  identical  with  the  Greek  Charon,  ii.  191 ; 
origin  of,  191 :  never  dnnvn  on  min-ors, 
193;  his  hanmier,  i.  331,  449,  ii.  191;  re- 
pre-cnted  black,  or  a  livid  blue,  i.  331,  348; 
ii.  191 :  his  "  wife  and  son,"  i.  332 ;  is  the 
infernal  Mercury,  Ix.,  334:  ii.  192,  guardian 
in  a  tomb  at  Vulci.  i.  466,  ii.  193 ;  at  Or^-ieto, 
51 :  at  Chiusi,  193.  330 :  with  an  oar,  306, 
i.  470;  ii.  520;  with  a  torch,  520;  in  battle 


scenes,  92 ;  leading  souls  on  horseback, 
181 ;  tonnenting  souis,  192 ;  holding  a  s.iul, 
521 ;  jjresent  at  scenes  of  slaughter,  i.  449  ; 
ii.  378:  his  appearance  and  attributes,  181, 
192 :  liis  attendants,  192 :  brandishing  a 
snake,  51 :  of  Michael  Angelo,  193 
Charun,  so-named  on  Etruscan  monuments,  i. 

466  ;  ii.  170,  .504 
Cheeses  of  Luna,  ii.  66 
Chest  of  Cypselus,  ii.  114,  167,  168,  174 
Chiana,  Val  di,  ii.  372  ;  Etruscan  tombs  in,  373 
Cui.iXCi.vNo,  roads  to,  ii.  368,370;  inns,  369; 
collection  of  Sig.   Giuseppe   Bartoli,   369 ; 
origin  of  the  name,  369 ;  tombs,  369  ;  bilin- 
gual inscription,  370 
Chiaro  di  Chiusi,  ii.  337 
Chiaroscuro  in  Etruscan  paintings,  ii.  60 
Chiinaera,  Etruscan,  in  bronze,  ii.  89,  386 
Chimnevs  in  tombs,  i.  93,  98,  393 
Cuiusi,"  roads   to.  ii.    290,    291  :   inn,   295 ; 
guide,  295 :   Labyrinth,  296,  297 :    Canipo 
degli  Orefici.  297:  Museo  Civico  Chiusino, 
298—313;    the  Bishop's  vases,   312;    the 
Casucchii  collection,  314;  Tomba  del  CoUe 
Casuccini,  321 ;  Deposito  de'  Dei,  328,  342  ; 
Deposito  delle  .Monache,  328  ;  Tomba  della 
Scimia,  330 ;  del  Postino,  330 :  circular  well 
or  shaft,  335 ;  necropolis  of  Pozgio  Eenzo, 
336 ;  Deposito  del  Gran  Duca,  338 ;  Deposito 
di  Vigna  Grande,  339;  Tomba  cl'  Orfeo  e 
d'Euridice,  340,  343 ;  painted  tombs,  now 
closed,  327,  330,  336,  340 ;  Poggio  Gajella, 
345—356;  lake  of,  337;  climate  of,   337. 
Sec  Clvsicm 
Church  hewn  in  the  rock,  i.  69 

of  S.  Pietro,  Toscanella,  i.  482 

Sta.  Maria,  i.  483 

Sta.  Cristiua.  Bolsena,  ii.  26 

Ciaja,  Coute  della,  his  collection,  ii.  298 
Cicero,  his  attachment  to  Yolaterne,  ii.   139, 

151  ;  defence  of  .Arretium,  381 
Ciliegeto,  Lake,  full  of  Etruscan  bronzes,  ii. 

108 
Cilnii,  family  of,  at  AiTetium,  ii.  3S0 

tomb"  of,  at  Sovana,  ii.  17,  131 ;    at 

Montapeiii,  131 
Ciminiau  ilount,  i.  146 :  forest  of,  144,  147  ; 

penetrated  by  Fabius,  142,  144,  148 
Ciminus  Lacus,  i.  146  ;  legends  of,  146 
Cinci,  Sig.  Giusto,  his  excavations  at  Volterra, 
ii.  151, 153:  his  son  director  of  Museum,  161 
Cincius,  an  ancient  antiquary,  ii.  25 
Cinerarv  urns,  at  Veii,  i.  40  ;  at  Florence,  ii. 
89—94;  at  Volterra,  161—187;   at  Chiusi, 
301— .306;    at  Cetona,    360;    at   Sarteano, 
364 ;  at  Citta  la  Pieve,  376—378  :  at  Peru- 
gia, 422—424 ;  in  the  Grotta  Volunni,  438 
— 44S  ;  in  the  Gregorian  Museum,  454 ;  at 
Bologna.  522 
Cipollara,  tombs  at,  i.  438 
Cippi,  Etruscan,  i.  Ixix. ;   ii.  112 ;  of  Chiusi, 
i.  Isxvi. ;  ii.  300,  301,  315,  316,  425:  like 
mill-stones,  i.  478,  481 :  ii.  487 ;  like  pine- 
cones,  42 ;  showing  analogy  to  the  tomb  of 
Porsena,  i548 
Cippi,  lloman,  i.  299 ;  ii  5,  153 
Circican  promontorv,  marble  of,  used  bv  the 

Etruscans,  i.  246,"  472  ;  ii.  101,  317 
Circus,  games  of  the,  introduced  into  Rome 
from  Etruria.  i.  70  ;  ii.  175 


INDEX. 


Circus    on    Etniscnn    monuments, 
priib:il)ly  existed  in  Etniria,  17'3 


ii.    175 ; 


JIuxiiuus,  of  Etrusciin  coustniction, 
i.  70,  37-5 
C'iriiiciis,  on  Luna,  ii.  65 
C'ispo,  ir.  monuments  of  Chiusi,  ii.  299,  300, 

;^oi 

Cisrn,  supposed  native  name  of  Civrc,  i.  231 ; 
ii.  2112 

Cista,  of  bronze,  i.  Ixxx.  403  ;  ii.  480,497,526 

T—,  the  Palcstrina,  ii.  497—499 

Ciste,  fvlindrical,  used  as  sepulchral  urns,  ii. 
■)US,  o22      . 

I'itharoedus,  Etruscan,  i.  379,  399 

Cities,  Etrusran,  position  of,  i.  xxxiii.  156 ; 
)i.  225,392;  square  form  of,  121,391 ;  forti- 
fications of,  i.  Ixvi.  13  ;  ii.  41  ;  three  temples, 
i.  425  ;  ii.  33,  252  ;  ancient  change  of  names, 
ii.  196;  discovery  of,  i.  121,183,  188,296; 
ii.  2,  263.  289,  390 

Citta  la  Pieve,  ii.  375  ;  inn,  375  ;  Etruscan 
collections  at,  375  ;  the  Tacc-iui  Collection, 
376-378 

Civilization  of  Etruria,  i.  Ix. — Ixiv. 

C'lvrr.v  Castell.vx.v.  an  Etruscan  site,  i.  89; 
bridge  or  viaduct,  88,  95 ;  walls,  89,  90 ; 
sewers  cut  in  rock,  89 — 91 ;  Ponte  Terrano, 

92,  94 ;  great  size  of  the  ancient  city,  90, 
96 ;  oiToncouslv  supposed  to  bo  Vcii,  90, 
96;  is  the  ancient  Ealerii,  96,  108,  110; 
tombs,  89,  91—94  ;  inns,  96  ;  guide  ;it.  111. 
Sec  Faleuii 

Civita    Vecchia,   its    ancient    port,    i.    298 ; 

Eonian    remains,   299,    ii.   481 ;    Etruscan 

n'lirs,  i.  299 
^  ivitucola,  i.  126,  131 
Clan,  Etruscan  for  '  son,'  i.  xlvii.  333 
Clanis,  change  of  its  course,  ii.  372 
Classiti  cation  cf  the  painted  tombs  of  Tar- 

quinii,  i.  380 
Claudius,  his  historv  of  Etruria,  lost,  i.  xxvii. ; 

ii.  506 
Cloaca  ilaxima,  i.  Ixii. ;    date  of  the,  Ixvii., 

Ixviii.,  266 
Cloaca,  ancient,  on  the  Marta,  i.  433 
Clogs,  Etruscan,  of  bronze,  ii.  484 
Clouds  in  Etruscan  scenes,  i.  347,  348 ;  ii.  56, 

57 
Clvsium,  one  of  the  Twelve,  ii.  291 ;    corns 

of,  292  ;  oridnallv  called  Camars,  292  ;  of 

I'mbrian  origin,  "292.    328 ;    history,    293, 

294  ;  ancient  walls,  295  ;  local  remains,  296  ; 

subterranean  passages,  296,  297 ;  black  ware 

of,  76,  307,  313,  318  ;  pamted  vases,  81,310, 

312,313;  necropolis,  320-344  ;  well-tombs, 

336,  340;    scnrabei,  297;    catacombs,  337; 

tomb  of  Porsena,  345;    Clusium  Novum, 

292.     .SV<'  Ciiirsi 
Cluvcr,  on  Ferentum,  i.  158  ;  on  Castro,  492  ; 

on  Valentano.  494 
Clytiemnestra,  death  of,  on  Etniscan  irnis,  ii. 

93,  170,  423;  on  a  sarcophagus,  456 ;  on  a 
vase,  474 

Cock,  tlie,  a  sepulchral  emblem,  ii.  78 
Cock-fight  depicted  on  a  vase,  ii.  474 
Cock-hoi-se,  ii.  83 

Cothns,  wooden.  Etruscan,  ii.  14,  242,  518,523 

Cognomina,  not  used  by  the  Etruscans,  ii.  441 

Coins  of  Pisa>.  ii.  72;  Fa'suho,  125;     Vola- 

terne,  190  ;  Populouia,  220  ;  Telamon,  237  ; 


Yctulonia,  272;  Clusium,  292;  Cortona, 
399;  Volsinii,  20;  attributed  to  Gravisca-, 
i.  430;  to  Cosa,  ii.  262;  Arretium,  385; 
Perugia,  427  ;  Luna,  65 

Coins,  copper,  found  at  the  Bagni  di  Vicarello, 
i.  60 ;  ii.  496 

,  Etruscan,  on  the  .Vpenuines,  ii.  Ill 

,  false,  ii.  225 

Colle,  alphabetical  tomb  of,  ii.  132,  133 

,  di  Lupo,  ii.  268 

Colli  Tufarini,  i.  223.     Sec  Monteuoni 

Colonna  di  liuriano,  supposed  site  of  the 
l)attle  of  Telamon.  ii.  ■.:22,  237 

Colours  used  in  Etruscan  paiutimrs,  i.  Isxxv., 
249,  310,  369;  ii.  326;  brilliancy  of,  i.  318, 
324,  369 ;  liuspi's  opinion,  324,  325 ;  mode 
of  laying  on.  248,  326  ;  cjuventionality,  369 

Colum,'i.  300;  ii.  325 

Columbaria  in  the  cliHs,  i.  10,  2G,  77,  119, 
142,  481,  491,  497,  498,  501  :  ii.  13 

Coluuielhe,  ii.  425 

Combats,  represented  in  tombs,  i.  342 ;  on 
urns,  ii.  303,  304 

Commercial  enterprise  of  the  Etruscans,  i.  Ixi. 

Compass,  Etruscan,  pretended,  ii.  10-5,  317 

Cone,  sepulchi'al,  of  rock,  i.  157.  185,  217 

Conestabile,  Count  G.  C,  on  the  Tomba  Golini, 
ii.  60;  theorj-  respecting  liologna,  ii.  517, 
546,  547  ;  on  the  mtida,  526:  his  death.  128 

Connubial  scenes,  i.  307,  472  ;  ii.  317,  447 

Constructive  necessity,  doctrine  of,  ii.  256 ; 
upset  by  facts,  260,  286 

Consualia,  i.  71 

Contenebra,  i.  195,  204,  304,  422 

Conventionalities,  in  colour,  i.  369  ;  of  early 
Etruscan  art,  Ixxi. 

Co])ais,  Lake,  i.  Ixiii. 

Co])pcr-niines  in  Etruria,  i.  Ixxiii. 

Corchiano,  an  Etruscan  site,  i.  118  ;  local 
remains,  118;  name  probably  Etrusean, 
119;  Etruscan  inseription  in  roek  at,  119 

Cordigliano,  ruined  castle  of,  i.  189,  190 

Corinth,  vases  of,  i.  xc. ;  sought  by  the 
Romans,  xcvii.,  390;  found  iu  Etruscan 
tombs,  ii.  490,  492 ;  Etruscan  imitations  of, 
1.  282 

CoRNETO,  Queen  of  the  Maremma,  i.  SOI  ; 
roads  to,  301,  437,  488  ;  inns,  303;  antiquity 
doubtful,  303;  Etrusean,  collections  at,  304; 
cicerone,  305 ;  caverns,  393  ;  painted  tombs 
at,  305.     Six  Takuvixii 

Corneto-Tauquinia,  i.  401 ;  ^lunicipal  3Iu- 
seum,  401 ;  sarcojihagi,  402 — 104  :  vases, 
405,  406  ;  hijUx  of  Oltos  and  Euxitheos, 
405;  iluseo  Briischi,  406 — 413;  painted 
vases,  407—410 ;  stiigil,  408 ;  Hesh  hooks, 
411;  Grotta  Uruschi,  412;  warrior-tomb, 
413;  bronzes,  415;  jewellery,  and  reliefs  ia 
ivorv,  415 

Comia",  ii.  196,  202,  207 

Cornicen,  Etruscan,  i.  333;  ii.  56,  178 

Corsica  possessed  by  the  Etruscans,  i.  xxi.'c. ; 
colonises  Populonia,  ii.  215 

Corssen,  Prof.,  on  the  Etruscan  language,  i.  1. 

CoKTOX  A,  ii.  394 ;  ancient  legends  of  its  origin, 
396;  the  inn,  396;  ancient  walls,  397; 
probably  of  Pelasgic  ronstruclion,  398; 
size  of  "the  city,  397;  ditlerent  names  of, 
399 ;  coins,  309,  402 ;  a  second  nietrojiolia 
of  Etruria,  399 ;  local  remains,  400  ;  Etrus- 


556 


INDEX. 


COllTldSA. 

can  vault,  400;  Academy  and  Museum,  401 ; 

bronzes,  401 ;    wonderl'ul  bimp,  402 — 405  ; 

Gra'co-Uoman  fresco,  40tj;  necropolis,  406; 

Tauella  di  Pitasora,  406 — 400  ;  iromlecli- 

tombs,  409  ;  Grotta  8er-ardi,  409 
Cortuosa,  i.  lO'j,  304.  i'l'l 
Corviuuo,  singular  tomb  at,  i.  173 
Corybantes,  i.  323,  384 
Corvthus,  ori<rinal  name  of  Cortona,  ii.  396, 

399 
CosA,  in  the  ten-itory  of  Vulci,  i.  444 ;  and  not 

a  colonv  of,  ii.  260 ;  site  of,  24o ;  road  to,  246 ; 

guide,  246  ;  walls,  246— 2o0 ;  towers,  248  ; 

gates,  2o0  ;  peculiarities  of  its  fortitications, 

248  ;  b_v  whom  built,  2-34 ;  Pelasgic  or  Etrus- 
can antiquity  of,  maintained,  260  ;  painted 

tomb,  2-54  ;  history,  262  ;  coins  ascribed  to, 

262  ;  vase  from,  477. 
Cosmogony  of  the  Eti-uscans  like  the  Mosaic, 

i.  xxxix. 
Costume,  Etruscan,  i.  248,  307,  321,  371,  373, 

377 
Couches,  drapery  of,  i.  314,  320,  346,  397 
Couches,  banqueting,  of  rock  in  tombs,  i.  37, 

41,  241,  2.50,  2.56,  27-5  ;  ii.  3o2 
Coverlets,  i.  248,  314,  320 
Cramps  in  masonry,  ii.  118 
Crawford,  Earl  of,  on  the  Etruscan  language, 

i.  1 
Cremation,  antiquity  of,  i.  27,  39 
Cremera,  i.  6,  29,  30 
Crestou,  name  of  Cortona,  ii.  S99 
Cromlechs,  in  Etrurin,  ii.  283,  409;  by  whom 

fomied,  284 — 286 ;  not  proper  to  one  race, 

287  ;  wide  diffusion  of,  287 
Croton,  name  of  Cortona,  ii.  399 
Crowns,   Etruscan,  of  gold,  i.   395,  456  ;    ii. 

85,  486  ;  found  in  tombs,  i.  389 
Cucumella,  tumulus  of  ihe,  i.  439,  452  ;  its 

towers,  452 ;  analogy  to  the  tomb  of  Alyattes 

at  Sardis,  453 ;  and  to  that  of  Porscna,  ii. 

348,  454 
Cucumelletta,  la,  i.  455 
Cuirass,  Etruscan,  ii.  103 
Cumere,  familj-  of,  ii.  365 
Cuniciilus  of  CanuUus,  i.  7.     'S'ee  Camillus 

in  tombs,  1.  483  ;  ii.  354,  356 

Cup,  ivory,  ii.  361 — 363 

Cupid  and  Psyche,  depicted  in  an  Etniscan 

tomb,  i.  343;  in  relief  on  an  urn,  ii.  164 
Cupra,  an  Etruscan  town,  i.  xxix. 

,  the  Etruscan  Juno,  i.,  Iv.  Ivi. 

Curtains  represented  in  tombs,  i.  316,  398 
Curule-chairs,  of  Etruscan  origin,  ii.  176  ;  of 

Cbiu-si,  85,  309, 334 ;  in  tombs  of  Cervetri,  i. 

240,    256,  276;    at  Sarteano,  ii.   366;   at 

Perugia,  427,  449 
Cybele,  in  an  Etruscan  tomb,  i.  384 
Cyclopean  walls,  described  by  Pansanias,  ii. 

226,  255;    cities,  118,  246;   application  of 

the  term,  255 
Cypselus,  chost  of,  ii.  114,  167, 168,  174,  378 
Cyrene,  tombs  of,  i.  Ixxviii.  93  ;  ii.  Ill,  280, 

533;  pavement  at,  ii.  118 


Dances,  Etruscan,  on  the  walls  of  tombs,  i. 
306,  311,  320,  326,  360,  371,  372,  373,  378, 


DISCOBOLtS. 

399,  400;  ii.  324,326.342,  343;  religious,!- 
323;  Bacchic,  326,  365,  armed,  ii.  324,  332, 
342 ;  on  a  vase,  82 ;  on  cippi,  315,  316 

Dancing,  philosojdiy  nf,  i.  323 

Dardanus,  founder  of  Cortona,  ii.  396 

Dead,  crowned  with  chaplets,  i.  395 

Death-bed  scenes,  in  a  painted  tomb,  i.  325, 
363;  on  ci/jpi  of  Chiusi.  ii.  301,  315;  of 
Perugia,  425;  on  urns,  180,  366 

Dedication  of  the  instruments  of  one's  craft, 
i.  198 

Deer,  depicted  in  Etruscan  tombs,  i.  358,  367 

Dei,  Don  Luigi,  ii.  267 

Delphi,  oracle  of,  consulted  by  the  Etruscans, 
i.  232;  treasure  at,  dedicated  by  the  Etrus- 
cans, 230  ;  and  by  the  Lydians,  230 

Demaratus,  legend  of,  i.  420 

Dkmons,  good  and  evil,  i.  287,  342;  distin- 
guished b)'  colour,  342  ;  by  attributes  and 
expression,  287,  354  ;  ii.  56,  182  ;  contending 
for  a  soul,  i.  342 ;  tormenting  souls,  343, 
384 ;  conducting,  331,  393,  412,  413 ;  ii.  56  ; 
guarding  the  gate  of  Hades,  343 ;  ii.  73  ; 
in  combats,.  304  ;  their  sex,  i.  343  ;  ii.  183  ; 
Etruscan,  generally  female,  i.  287,  343 ;  ii. 
430;  not  introduced  on  earlier  monuments, 
i.  382.     >Sta  Genii 

Depas,  form  of,  i.  cxix. 

Aenas  aij.(piKVTreWoy,  ii.  515 

Depilatories,  used  by  the  Etruscans,  i.  381 

Desideri,  family  of,  ii.  214 

Dcsidcrio.  King,  forged  decree  of,  i.  150,  152. 

Desi.iHi,  Etruscan,i.  Ixxi. — Ixxiii.,  362;  ii.  327; 
attitudes  often  unnatural,  i.  321 ;  know- 
ledge of  anatomy  displayed,  363 

Designatores,  officers  attached  to  theatres,  i.  72 

Desjardins,  M.  Ernest,  on  the  site  of  Sabate, 
i.  59  ;  on  the  Aqua'  Apollinares  and  Eorum 
Clodii,  60 

Desultores,  ii.  331 

Des  Vergers,  31.  Xoel,  on  the  walls  of  Ardea, 
i.  60  ;  on  the  Fram^ois  tomb,  i.  449  ;  ii.  508; 
on  Castiglione  Eeniardi,  ii.  197  ;  i^esearches 
in  the  Tuscan  Maremma,  200,  201,  220 ;  on 
tombs  at  Cervetri,  i.  250,  253 

De  Witt,  Sig.,  ii.  241 

Diamicton  masonry,  i.  80 

Diana,  Etruscan,  i.  Iviii. ;  winged,  473;  ii. 
114,  164. 

Dianium,  ii.  252 

Diatoni,  i.  81 

Di(^c,  used  liy  the  Etruscans,  i.  364 ;  Lydian 
invention  of,  xxxv.,  364  ;  Achilles  and  Ajax 
playing  at,  364 ;  ii.  462,  475 ;  found  in 
tombs,  190 ;  pair-  of,  marked  with  wortls  in 
Etruscan,  i.  1. 

Dica>archia,  i.  xxx. 

Dii  Conscntes  or  Complices,  i.  Iv. 

—  Involuti  or  Superiores,  i.  Ivi. 

Di  Luca,  scavi,  ii.  532. 

Dionysia,  the,  imported  into  Etrurin,  i.  324 

Dionysins  of  Halicarnassus,  on  the  origin  of 
the  Etruscans,  i.  xxxv. 

of  Syracuse  spoils  Pyrgi,  i.  233, 

292 

Dioscuri,  the,  worshipped  by  the  Etruscans, 
i.  Iviii. ;  depicted  on  a  vase,  ii.  463 

Dirce,  myth  of,  on  an  Etruscan  urn,  ii.  166 

Discobolus,  in  Etruscan  scenes,  i.  316,  374  ;  ii. 
342 


INDEX. 


557 


Di^^cs  painted  on  ■walls  of  a  tomb,  i.  40;  of 

bronze,  ii.  47o,  476 
Divination,  Etruscan,  character  of,  i.  xlii.;  by 

lightning,  xliii.  ;  by  the  feeding  of  fowls, 

ii.  381 
Dodwell  vase,  the.  i.  282 
Dog,  buried  with  his  master,  i.  4oG 
Dog-faced  men,  ii.  318,  343 
Dogs   depicted   in  Etruscan    tombs,    i.    207 ; 

ancient  mode  of  quieting,  ii.  213 
Dolmens,  tombs  like,  ii.  4-')8,  531,  541 
Dolphin,  an  Etniscan  symbol,  i.  169;  ii.  190; 

often  de])icted,  i.  169,  312,  317,  328,  412 ; 

in  relief  iii  a  tomb,  ii.  443 
Domed  sepulchres,  ii.  154 
Doors,  Etruscan,  still  working,  ii.  321,  339, 

340 ;  similar,  unhinged,  338  ;    moulded,  i. 

180,  216,  448,  452  ;  false,  painted,  364, 379 ; 

ii.  322,  507 
Doric,  Etruscan,  i.  167, 199, 216, 238,  274, 277 ; 

ii.  6 

pottery,  i.  Ixxxviii. — xc.  414  ;  ii.  491 

Draperv,  mode  of  representing,  i.  321 

Dreams  in  Italy,  ii.  329 

Dualistic  princiidc,  i.  xliii. 

Duml)-bells  used  by  Etruscans,  ii.  324,  342, 

515 
Dwarfs  in  Etruscan  paintings,  ii.  327,  332, 

333 


Earrixgs,  found  in  Etruscan  tombs,  i.  269  ; 

ii.  28,  48,  485 ;  worn  by  priests,  i.  269,  402 
Eba,  i.  497 

Ecasuthi,  an  Eti"usean  formula,  i.  187  ;  ii.  17 
Ecasuthiiiesl,  i.  187,  475 
Echetlus  ou   Etruscan    ui-ns,   ii.    166.      fSce 

Cadmus 
Echidna  on  Etruscan  monuments,  ii.  173 
Eggs,  found  in  tombs,  i.    141,  408.  458;  of 

ostriches,  ])aintcd  and  cai-ved,  2 .'3,  457 
Egypt,  analogy  of  its  art  to  that  of  Etruria,  i. 

Ixxi. ;  36,  179,  196,  266,  370,  448;  ii.  188; 

analogies  in  its  tombs,  i.  179,  196,  223,  249 ; 

ii.  8,  11 ;  invaded  bv  the  Etruscans,  i.  Ixi. 
Egyptian  articles  in  ttniscan  tombs,  i.  223, 

276,  457 ;    Etrns'an  imitations  of,  i.   267, 

269,  457,  459 ;  ii.  486 ;  Phoenician  imita- 
tions of,  503 
Eileithyia.  i.  Iv. :  temple  of,  290, 291 ;  supposed 

statue  of,  ii.  188 
Elba,  possessed  bv  the  Etruscans,  i.  xxviii.  ; 

ii.  138,  218;  iron  of,  215,  218;  antiquities, 

218 
Electra,  ii.  377 

Electruni,  a  mixed  metal,  ii.  341 
Elephant,  painted  in  an  Etruscan  tomb,  i. 

385 
Ellis,  Rev.  R.,  on  the  Etiniscan  language,  i.  1. 
Elvsium,  the  Etruscan,  i.  322,  348,  354,  374 ; 

ii.  57,  326 
Emissaries  formed  by  the  Etruscans,  i.  Ixiii. ; 

of  the  Alban  lake,  24 ;  of  Lago  di  liaccano, 

5o 
Emplecton  masom-v  described,  i.  Ixvi..  65,  80; 

instances  of,  81,83,89,91,  94, 102,  210,  241, 

276,  443,  482,  497  ;    ii.  5 ;   accords  in  its 

measurements  with  the  Tuscan  braccio,  i. 

66 :  ii.  339 


Empulum,  polygonal  walls  of  tufo,  ii.  259 

Ephesus,  stadium  of,  i.  72 

Epipoliu  of  Syracuse,  emplecton  at,  i.  81 

Eretum,  battle  of,  i.  130 

Erichthouius,  birth  of,  on  a  vase,  ii.  319 

Esquiline,  excavations  on  the,  ii.  493-495 

Etkuui.^.,  extent  of,  i.  xxviii. 

Campaniana,  i.  xxix. 

Circumpadana,  i.  xxix. 

Proper,  xxx.;    north-west  frontier, 

ii.  63 ;  geological  features,  i.  xxxi. ;  Twelve 
cities  of,  xxxi. ;  fertility,  xxxii. ;  position  of 
the  cities,  xxxiii. ;  earliest  inliabitants, 
xxxiv. ;  pretended  etymology,  xxxiv.  ; 
great  ])lain  of,  148,  176  ;  inferior  to  Greece 
in  civilization,  Iii. ;  chronicles  of,  xxvii. ; 
her  influence  on  modem  Europe,  cui. 

Etruscax  Confederation,  i.  Ii.  ;  era,  xxxiv. ; 
monuments  found  in  the  T\to1,  xxxvii.  ; 
cosmogony,  xxxix.  :  divination,  xHi. ;  dis- 
cipline, lix.,  23,  419;  augury,  xlii. ;  thun- 
der-calendar, xliii.  ;  language,  xh-i.  xlix.  ; 
traces  of  it  in  the  Tyrol,  xlvii. ;  alphabet, 
xlvUi. ;  few-  words  recorded  by  ancient  writers, 
xlvii. ;  system  of  goveniment,  xlii.,  Ii. ; 
feudal  .system,  Ii. ;  slavery,  Iii.;  insignia  of 
authority,  20,  421 ;  ii.  270  ;  religion,  cha- 
racter of,  liii. ,  382  ;  mythology,  liv. ;  deities, 
liv. — 1.x  ;  mode  of  representing  the  bUss  of 
Elysium,  322,  374;  ii.  54—57,  326;  games, 
i.  70,  374;  theatrical  performances,  71; 
agricultui-e,  L\i. ;  commerce,  Ixi. ;  pii-ac}-, 
eii.  ;  intercourse  with  Greece,  ii.  143  ; 
lu.icury,  i.  xliv.,  cii.,  307,  476 ;  modesty 
of  women,  321 ;  their  forwardness,  476  ;  in- 
decencj'  of  the  plvbs.  375 ;  ci\-ilization,  cha- 
racter of,  Ix.,  Ixiv. ;  literature,  Ixi. ;  science, 
Ixii. ;  skill  in  astronomy,  Ixii. ,  sewerage, 
Ixii.;  roads, Ixui.;  tunnels, Ixiii.,  11;  archi- 
tecture, Ixiv.;  temples  and  houses,  Ixv.; 
niasonr}-,  Ixvi. ;  rites  in  founding  cities, 
l.wi. ;  sepulchres,  Ixviii. ;  modes  of  sepul- 
ture, 27,  92;  cities  of  the  dead,  17G, 
208,  238;  ii.  12;  taste  in  sepulture,  i. 
95;  plastic  arts,  Ixx.:  analogy  of  early 
works  to  those  of  Egypt,  Ixxi. ;  and  of 
Greece,  Ixxi. ;  works  in  teiTa-cotta,  Ixxiii., 
40 ;  in  bronze,  Ixxiii.  ;  in  wood  and  stone, 
l.xxv.;  scaraba-i,  Ixxvi.;  miiTors,  Ix.xviii. ; 
jewellery,  Ixxxi.  ;  paintings  in  tombs, 
Ixxxiv. ;  on  vases,  l.xxxvi. ;  measure  in 
use  at  the  present  day,  i.  66 ;  ii.  339,  408 ; 
whisperer,  i.  478  ;  sportsmen,  311 

Etkvsc.vxs,  called  themselves  Easena,  i. 
xxxiv.  .xxxvi. ;  their  origin  disputed.  xxx%'i. 
xxxix  ;  oriental  character  and  analogies, 
xlii. — xlvi. ;  physiognomy  of,  xlv. ;  public 
Works,  Iii.  ;  eminently  religious  or  super- 
stitious, liii.  ;  superior  to  the  Greeks  in  the 
treatment  of  women,  Ixiv.,  310;  maritime 
power.  Ixi. ;  military  tactics,  Ixi. ;  medical 
skill,  Ixii. ;  draw  lightning  from  heaven, 
Ixii. ;  their  connection  with  the  Cistibcrine 
people  evident  in  names  of  places,  ii.  261 ; 
])ractised  the  arch,  i.  lx>ii.;  maligned  by 
the  Greeks  and  Romans,  cii. 
Eucheir  and  Eugrammos,  i.  420 
P^uganean  relics  and  in.scriptions,  i.  xxxvii. 
Eurynomus,  the  demnn,  i.  348 ;  ii.  191 

Ewer,  Etruscan,  ii.  477 


INDEX. 


ESCAVATIOXS. 

Excavations,  ancient,  in  Etruria,  i.  xcvii. ; 
modem,  at  Veii,  31 ;  Sutii,  78  ;  S.  Martino, 
132:  Orte,  141;  Boniarzo,  167:  Castel  d' 
Asso,  182 :  Musarna,  190  :  Mont<>roni,  223 ; 
Cervetri,  229,  239 ;  Zambia,  278  ;  Puntone 
del  Castrate,  295:  Tolfa,  300:  Cometo, 
390, 427  :  Viiloi,  448—451 :  Toscanella,  484; 
Bolsena,  ii.  26 :  Orvieto,  41;  Pisa,  72;  Yol- 
teiTa,  151,  155 ;  Tuscan  Maremnia,  200  ; 
Populonia,  219;  EuselliV,  231;  Orbetello, 
241  ;  Maxliano,  267 ;  Chiusi,  320,  350 ; 
Cetona,  359;  Sarteano,  365,  367;  Chian- 
ciano,  369 ;  Val  di  Cliiuna,  373 :  Arezzo,  383; 
Cortona,  409;  Perugia,  437,  449;  Palcstrina, 
499 ;  Bologna,  512,  517,  529—537  ;  Marzu- 
botto,  537 

Ex-votos.  ii.  108 

Eye,  evil,  i.  471 ;  ii.  53.  119 

Eyes  on  vases,  i.  462,  469,  471 :  ii.  77,  473;  a 
decoration  of  furniture,  331 ;  in  wings  of 
Etruscan  deities  or  monsters,  170,  173,  364  ; 
on  the  bows  of  vessels,  i.  312,  471 


Fabii,  heroism  of  the,  i.  20 :  slaughter  of,  22 ; 
castle  or  camp  of  the,  21,  25,  29',  30.  43 

Fabius  crosses  the  Cimiuian  forest,  i.  144, 148 

Eabroni,  Dr.,  ii.  384,  385 

Face,  full,  very  rare  on  early  Etruscan  monu- 
ments, ii.  301 

F.5;stLiE,  walls  of,  ii.  117,  120;  pavement, 
118;  sewers,  118 ;  gates,  118,  120,  121 :  size 
of  the  citv,  121 ;  not  one  of  the  Twelve,  121 ; 
Arx,  121;"  theatre,  123:  Buche  delle  Fate, 
123;  ancient  reservoirs,  124;  necropoHs, 
125;  coins,  125;  historv,  126;  skill  in 
augury,  126:  La  Badia,  127 _ 

Faina,  Count  della,  his  collection  of  Etrascan 
antiquities,  ii.  46 — 48 

Fairs,  held  at  national  shiines.  i.  130 ;  ii.  34 

Faleria,  or  Falesia  Portus,  ii.  212 

Falerii,  history  of,  i.  28,  107  :  inhabited  by 
an  Ar.dve  or  Pelastric  race.  107  :  one  of  the 
Twelve,  108.  112:  temple  of  Juno.  107,  110; 
■worship  of  Minerva,  ilars,  and  Janus,  107  ; 
occupied  site  of  Civita  Castellana,  108 ; 
siege  of,  by  Caniillus,  108  ;  treachery  of  the 
schoolmaster,  108;  captui'e  of,  109  ;  etymo- 
logy of.  113.    Sec  Civita  Castellaxa 

F.iliscan  inscriptions,  i.  94,  101 

Falisci,  the,  an  Argive  i-ace,  i.  107;  three 
cities  of,  107.  112;  incorporated  with  the 
Etruscans,  107.  116:  similaiity  of  the  name 
to  Volsci  and  Pelasgi,  ii.  261 

Faliscum,  i.  107,  113;  probably  identical  with 
JEquum  Faliscum,  113 

Faliseus,  Ager,  beauties  of,  i.  117:  produce, 
117 

Falkener,  Mr.  Edward,  his  sketches  of  Greek 
cities  and  ruins,  i.  161  ;  cited  as  authority, 
ii.  118,  251 

Fallehi,  porticoed  tombs  of,  i.  97 — 99;  Latin 
inscription  in  the  rock,  99 ;  walls  and  towcns, 
101—105;  gates,  101,  102, 105  ;  sewers,  103  ; 
tombs,  103  ;  theatre,  106  ;  ruined  convent, 
106 :  plan  of  the  city,  105  ;  is  the  Roman, 
not  the  Etruscan  I'ak-rii,  110,  113 

Fulterona,  Monte,  ii.  107 


ELOKEXCE. 

Fan,  Etruscan,  i.  472;  ii.  476 

pattern  on  ceilings,  i.  239,  274,  448 

Fanelli,  8ig.,  his  collection,  ii.  367 
Faxum  Voltumx,tj.  seat  of  the  national  con- 
clave, i.  Ii.  151  ;  ii.  32  :  supposed  at  Castel 
d'  Asso,  i.  184  ;  or  at  Valentano,  494 ;  but 
;       more  probably  at  Monte  Fiascone,  ii.  32 ; 
I       speculations  on,  34 

Farewell  scenes,  i.  ci..  385;  ii.  93,  ISO,  181,  306 

Farm,  an  Italian,  ii.  281 
I   Farnese,  an  Etruscan  site,  i.  490;  quanies  at, 
I       493 

I    Fameta,  inscriptions  at,  ii.  373 
j   Fasces  on  Eti-uscan  monuments,  i.  413,  470 
I   Fascinum,  ii.  53,  119 
I    Fasti  Consulares,  ii.  21 

I    Fates,    Etruscan,    i.   Iviii.   287,    288;    their 
i       attributes,  287  ;  ii.  317 

Favissa^,  ii.  122 

Felsina,  an  Etruscan  city,  i.  xxix. ;  ii.  510; 
probably  a  colony  of  Volsinii,  510,  547 ; 
supposed  by  Brizio  to  beUmbrian,  536,544; 
traditions  "of  its  foundation.  547  :  did  not 
occupy  the  site  of  Bologna,  511,  536 

FenigUa,  ii.  245 

Fekextixum,  of  Etruria,  i.  157 ;  ancient 
temple  of  Fortune  at,  158  :  local  remains, 
158  ;  theatre,  159 — 161 :  its  faqade  probably 
Etruscan,  159  :  walls,  158;  quarries  of,  161"; 
well-sepulchres,  162 

of  Latium.  gate  of,  ii.  250 

Ferento,  i.  157.    -SVc  Ferextixcm 

Feronia,  an  Etruscan  goddess,  i.  Iv.,  129  ;  in- 
scription refening  to  her,  85.  130 :  shrine 
beneath  Soracte,  129;  other  shrines,  129; 
annual  fau",  130 

,  to'rt-n  of,  i.  129 

Fescennine  verses,  i.  Ixi.  116 

Fescexxixm,  a  Faliscan  town.  i.  112,  115  ; 
hence  came  the  Fescennine  songs,  116;  site 
uncertain,  116 ;  not  at  CiHta  Castellana, 
110:  nor  at  Gallese,  116;  probably  a?  S.  Sil- 
vestro,  122 

Fiano,  the  ancient  Flavina,  i.  137 

Fibula;  of  gold,  ii.  352,  485,  526,  .534;  with  an 
Etruscan  inscription,  485 :  of  elect n'oi,  500 : 
of  bronze,  515,  523,  526,  530.  532,  534,  537, 
546 

Fiuex.t:,  a  colony  of  Yeii,  i.  43  ;  assisted  by 
her,  22  :  battle  ground,  46.  47 :  site  of,  43  : 
local  remains,  49 ;  cuniculus,  50 ;  eiirht 
captures  of,  51,  53:  her  desolation  a  by- 
word, 51 

Fidenates,  armed  with  torches  and  serpents, 
i.  332 

Fiesole,  ii.  116.    See  F.'esul.t; 

Fis-line,  tomb  at,  ii.  Ill 

Flora,  i.  439,  447,  448,  498 ;  ii.  289 

Fire-rake,  ii.  481 

Fishermen,  Etruscan,  i.  312 

Fishing  by  night  in  Italy,  ii.  240 

Fitto  di  Cecina,  ii.  201 

Flaminius,  his  defeat  at  Thrnsymeue,  ii.  415 

Elavil,  tomb  of  the,  ii.  183,  ISO 

Flavina,  i.  137 

Flesh-hooks,  i.  411 ;  ii.  104,  477 

Fi.okexce,  antiquity  of,  ii.  74  :  peopled  from 
Fiesula-,  75,  127;  Etruscan  relics  in  the 
Mu>eo  Egizio,  75  ;  Palazzo  Buonarroti,  106; 
the  Strozzi  s/;(ff///o,  106 


INDEX. 


5J9 


lOCOLARI. 

Focolaii,  ii.  79,  307  ;  described,  79,  80 

Foiauo,  ii.  373 

Foklinff-stools,  i.  260,  472 

Folloniea,  ii.  200,  294 

Fonte  Eotellu,  ii.  81,  373 

Fonte  Sotterra,  ii.  124 

Fontes  Clusini,  ii.  291 

Foreshorteiiiiig  in  Etruscan  paintings,  i.  397 

Forlivcsi,  Padre,  i.  384,  393 

Forum  of  Augustus,  i.  6(5,  101 

Aurclii,  i.  436,  439 

Cassii,  i.  63,  194 

Clodii.  i.  60 

Fosse  round  tombs,  i.  217  ;  ii.  319 

Founding-  cities,  Etruscan  rites  on,  i.  Ixvi. 

Foundry-deposit,  ii.  536 

Fountains,  nymphs  at,  ii.  464,  465 

Four-\\iui;ed  deities,  ii.  427 

Francois,  his  great  vase,  ii.  81,  113;  excava- 
tions, 125;  in  the  Marennna.  200;  at  I'opu- 
lonia,  219  ;  lluselhe,  231 ;  Jla-liano,  264, 
267  :  Cliianciano,  369  ;  Cortona,  409  ;  on 
Telamone  and  its  port,  236,  238 ;  painted 
tomb  at  Vulci  discovered  by,  i.  449  ;  his 
death,  453 

Frangioni,  the  cicerone,  i.  305,  400 

Fratta,  la.  ii.  405 

Fregena)  identical  with  Frcgelhe,  i.  220 ;  no 
local  remains,  221 

Frescoes,  the  Yuleian,  ii.  503 — 508 

Fronto's  description  of  Alsium,  i.  224,  225 

Fry,  ilr.,  vase  in  possession  of,  ii.  312 

Fiimigators  in  tombs,  i.  275;  ii.  488,  489;  lilic 
dripping  pans,  i.  267  ;  ii.  475 

Funeral  feasts  of  the  ancients,  i.  322.  See 
Ban(]^uets,  Games 

Furies,  i.  331,  332,  342  ;  Etruscan,  287,  288  ; 
ii.  93,  192 


G. 


Gal.\.ssi,  i.  264.    See  Eegvlixi 

Galei-a,  i.  55 

Galiana,  i.  154 

Gallese,  not  Fescennium,  i.  116,  121 ;  though 

an  Etruscan  site,  120,  139 
Galley  depicted  in  Etruscan  tombs,  i.  312, 

384 
Games,  funeral,  i.   374;    ii.  323,  330—333, 

342  ;  public  spectators  at,  i.  375  ;  ii.  176 
Gamurrini,  ii.  61,  107,  202,  306,  390,  391  ;  on 

the  walls  of  ^Vi-retium,  382  ;  on  its  potterj', 

383  ;  discovers  its  necro])olis,  385 
Garampi,  Card.,  on  the  antiquity  of  Cometo, 

i.  304  ;  gave  his  name  to  a  tomb,  339 
Gate.S.    number    in     Etruscan    cities,    67 ; 

double,   12;    ii.   143,  147,    148,  250;    with 

architraves  of   cuneiform   blocks,   i.    159 ; 

ii.   418 ;    with  lintels    of  wood   or  stone, 

ii.    145,  147,   250,   278;    arched,  i.   Ixvii., 

426  ;  ii.  143,  418  ;  with  obli(iue  approaches, 

148 
Gate  of  Hell  on  Etruscan  monuments,  i.  343, 

385;  ii.  306,317 
Gauls,  the,  drive  the  Etruscans  from  the  vale 

of  the  Po  to  tlie  Kha'tian  Alps,  i.  x.xxvi. ; 

tombs  of,  ii.  531 ;  jewellery,  130 
Gauntlets,  Etruscan,  ii.  477 
Geese,  guardians  of  tombs,  i.  375 


Cell,  Sir  William,  his  description  of  masonry 
I  at  Veil,  i.  12;  on  the  I'ontc  Sodo,  11  ;  the 
castle  of  the  l-'abii,  29  ;  Jlontc  Musiuo,  57  ; 
mistake  about  the  sites  of  Fescennium  and 
Falerii,  90,  96,  110;  about  S.  (Jiovanni  di 
Bieda,  218;  on  the  remains  of  C'apena,  132 

Genii,  doctrine  of,  J'.truscau,  i.  lix. ;  ancient 
belief  respecting,  285  ;  lucky  and  unlucky, 
286  ;  received  divine  lionours,  286  ;  distinct 
from  llanes  and  Lares,  286 ;  swearing  by, 
286;  of  Etruscan  origin.  287;  represented, 
i.  336,  338,  354  ;  of  Death,  198,  200 ;  ii.  94. 
See  Demons 

Gerhard,  Professor,  on  the  jsainted  vases,  i. 
xcix.  c.;  on  the  tombs  of  Tarquinii,  308, 
309,  319,  322,  323,  324,  340,  36H,  375  ;  ou 
Yuki,  445  ;  on  the  vases  of  Vulci,  462  ;  on 
minors  and  clstr,  i.  Ixxviii.,  Ixxx.,  ii.  480; 
on  Vetulonia,  ii.  209;  on  the  walls  of 
Ruselhe,  227 

Gcryon  in  the  Grotta  dell'  Oreo,  i.  350,  352 ; 
on  a  vase,  407 

Giannutri,  ii.  252 

Giants,  emblems  of  volcanic  agencies,  i.  329  ; 
ii.  173;  introduced  in  Greek  arcliitccture 
as  in  Etruscan,  i.  330 

Giglio,  island,  ii.  238,  252 

GiuUana,  Torre,  an  Etruscan  site,  i.  13S 

Gladiatorial  combats  of  Etruscan  origin,  i.  71, 
374;  represented  on  urns,  ii.  175 

Glass,  articles  in,  i.  463;  ii.  85,  475,  495,  496, 
527,  532,  533,  543 

Glaucus,  represented  on  Etruscan  monuments, 
ii.  172,  423 

Goddess,  bronze,  from  lluselhe,  ii.  233 

Gold,  burial  of,  i.  xcvii.;  ornaments  in  tombs, 
i.  268,  269,  276 ;  ii.  485,  500,  541 ;  sheet  of, 
112  ;  lamiucB  of,  in  a  tomb,  353 

Golini,  Sig.,  on  Vol.sinii,  ii.  24 ;  excavations 
at  Bolsena,  26 ;  at  Orvieto,  48';  Tomba,  52, 
80 

Gongs,  ii.  516 

Gorgon's  head,  an  Etruscan  decoration,  i.  199  ; 
on  vases,  471 ;  on  urns,  ii.  304,  423,  439;  in 
tomb.s,  i.  199  ;  ii.  343,  441  ;  in  bnmze,  404  ; 
in  tena-cotta,  434;  on  coins,  125,  221;  on 
lamps,  404,  442;  emblems  of  the  moon,  221, 
404,  443;  difference  between  early  and  late, 
439  ;  in  the  Villa  Ludovisi,  439 

Gothic  vaults  in  Etruscan  tombs,  i.  265,  386 

Govcniment  of  Etruria,  i.  Ii. 

Gozzadini,  Count  G.,  his  excavations  at  Vil- 
lanuova,  ii.  512  ;  at  Casa  Malvasia,  534  ;  at 
Marzabotto,  538;  on  the poiidcra  of  Horace, 
515  ;  on  iiiifiiiiuibii/ti,  533 ;  liis  Etruscan 
theory  of  Bologna,  517,  546;  collection,  516 

Gracchi,  family  of  the,  ii.  186 

Grannniccia,  the,  i.  131 

Grasshoppers,  golden,  ii.  132 

Gk.wisc.k,  ])(irt  of  Tarciuinii.  i.  430 ;  site 
disputed,  431,  435  ;  legend  of  St.  Augustine, 
432;  on  the  bank  of  the  Marta.  433,  434; 
local  remains,  433 ;  discovery  of  a  large 
cloaca,  433  ;  coins  attrilnited  to,  430 

Gray,  Mrs.  Hamilton,  i.  175,  on  Castel  d'As.so, 
184;  on  the  tombs  of  Tarquinii,  309,  325, 
334,  368;  on  Toscanella,  482;  tombs  at 
Monteroni,  224  ;  focolari,  ii.  79 

Greaves,  ii.  103  ;  with  Etruscan  inscriptions, 
ii.  427 


560 


INDEX. 


Greece,  painted  tombs  in,  i.  38.  383;  tombs 
of,  have  analogies  to  those  of  Etruria,  202, 
203,  3S6 

Greek  arcLiteeturc  in  Eti-uscan  tombs,  i.  196 ; 
ii.  143 

art,  influence  of,  seen  in  Etruscan  mo- 
numents, i.  Ixxi.  Ixxii.  Ixxvi.  Ixxx.  Ixxxiv. 
xc.  309,  322,  375,  380,  381 :  ii.  102.  143,499 

tubit.   said   to   be    the   scale  of  some 

Etnisean  tombs,  i.  202 

Grirtons  on  Etruscan  monuments,  ii.  174 

Grirtbu  w-ith  an  eye  in  its  A\"ing:,  ii.  448 

Grosseto,  roads  to,  ii.  222  ;  inn,  223  ;  museum, 
224  ;  Eti-uscan  alphabet  in,  224 

Grotta  BiTischi,  i.  412 

Groita Campana at Yeii, i. 33 — i'2 ;  at Cenetii, 
274 

del  Cataletto,  i.  175 

Colonna,  i.  185 

della  Colonna  at  Bomarzo,  i.  167 

Dipinta,  i.  168 

d' Orlando,  i.  77 

di  I'olifcno,  i.  345 

di  Kiello,  i.  175 

San  Lorenzo,  ii.  19 

.Sericardi,  ii.  409 

Staekelberg-,  i.  373 

Grottaton-e,  ii.  119 

Grotte  di  Santo  Stefano,  i.  164 

Grove,  sacred,  i.  57 

Guardabassi,  Si?.,  his  collection,  ii.  426 

Guamacci,  Monsig.,  ii.  160 

Gubbio,  ii.  154 

Guglielnii,  liis  Etruscan  collection,  i.  299 

Guinea-fowls,  on  a  vase,  i.  40S 

Gurasium,  ii.  20 

Guttus,  archaic,  i.  414 


H. 


IIades.  Etruscan,  scenes  in  the,  i.  343,  S48, 
350,  353,  466  ;  King  and  Queen  of,  466 ; 
ii.  54 

Hades  and  Pei-sephone,  i.  338,  350  ;  ii.  59 

Hadria,  ii.  139.     -Set-  Atria 

Hair,  mode  of  wearing  it,  i.  368,  459,  460 

Hair-pins,  ii.  477,  515 

Halteres,  .sec  Lumb-bells 

Hammer  or  mallet,  an  attribute  of  demons,  i. 
331,  343,  384,  385,  413  ;  ii.  193 

Hand-iions,  ii.  477 

Hands,  iron,  i.  412 

Hand-mills,  invention  of,  ii.  22 

Handles  of  furniture,  ii.  477;  bronze,  i.  104; 
ii.  481 

■ of  aichaic  pots,  often  broken,  336, 

365,  514 

Hare-hunt  in  an  Etnisean  tomb,  i.  311;  ii. 
335 ;  on  a  vase,  472 

Head,  gold  ornament  for  the,  ii.  485,  500 

Heads  on  gatewavs,  i.  102,  104  ;  ii.  143,  144, 
167,  418.  421 

of  teiTa-cotta,  i.  428  ;  ii.  85,  459,  496 

Hector,  death  of,  on  a  vase,  ii.  463  ;  contend- 
ing with  Ajax,  465,  472 ;  with  Achilles, 
47(1 ;  represented  with  Hecuba,  468 

Helbig,  Dr.  "\V.,  on  the  Etruscan  alphabet,  i. 
-xUx. ;  on  geometrical  decorations,  Ixxxvii. ; 
on  archaic  Greek  vases,  xc. ;  on  wall-paint- 


IIYPOPODIVM. 

ings  at  Veil,  38 ;  on  the  tombs  of  Tarquinii, 
348,  352,  353,  350,  358,  362,  376;  the 
Amazon  sarcophagus,  ii.  101,  102;  ,the 
monkey-tomb  at  Cliiusi,  ii.  335  ;  the  silver 
bowls  from  Talestrina,  503 

Helen,  rape  of,  on  Etruscan  unis,  ii.  92,  168, 
455;  jiursued  by  Menelaus,  on  a  vase,  474, 
527;  rescued  by  Castor  and  Pollux,  on  a 
mirror,  428 

Helmet,  Etruscan,  i.  Ixii. :  ii.  103;  with  a 
death-thrust,  i.  37  ;  circled  with  gold  chap- 
lets,  ii.  486 

Henzen,  Dr.,  explains  an  inscription  at  Fallen, 
i.  100,  101 ;  on  inscriptions  at  Capeua,  132  ; 
his  record  of  a  tomb  at  Cometo,  385 

Herbanum,  ii.  40 

Herculaneum,  an  Etruscan  town,  i.  xxx. 

Hercules,  an  Etruscan  deity,  i.  Ivii. ;  makes 
the  Ciminian  lake,  146 ;  his  temple  at 
Viterbo,  154 ;  vanquishing  Hijipolyta, 
408  ;  slaying  Busiris,  282 :  ii.  52S  :  over- 
coming the  Xemean  lion,  i.  407  :  ii.  465 ; 
shaking  hands  with  Minerva,  82,  467  ;  con- 
tending for  the  tripod,  408 :  carrying  the 
Cercopian  brothers,  81 ;  the  boar  of  Ery- 
manthus,  312,  470:  at  the  gate  of  Orcus, 
170 ;  deeds  of,  on  vases,  461. 471 :  on  bronzes, 
426,429,483;  caressing  Omphale,  449';  cross- 
ing the  sea  in  a  bowl,  473 ;  called  Kalanike, 
482 

Herodotus,  on  the  origin  of  the  Etruscans,  i. 

XXXV.  xl. 

Hetasra,  i.  309 

Hinthal,  i.  xlvii.  ;  ii.  482,  505 

Hippalectryon,  or  "  Cock-horse,"  ii.  83 

Hippocampi,  i.  168.     Sic  Sea-horses 

Hippolyta,  ii.  469 

Hippolytus  on  Etnisean  urns,  ii.  302,  364 

Hu-pini,  marvellous  feats  of,  i.  135 

Hirpus,  a  wolf  in  Sabine,  i.  135 

Histei',  Etruscan  for  li'dio.  i.  70;   dances  of 

the  HistrioiH.s,  Ixi.  377;  ii.  324 
Histories,  Etruscan,  i.  xxvii.  Ix. 
Hoare,  Sir  R.  C,  on  Moscona,  ii.  230  ;  on  the 

walls  of  Orbetello,  ii.  241 
Holkion,  form  of  the,  i.  cxsi.  exxii. 
Holmos,  fonu  of,  i.  cxiii.  cxix. 
Hokstcnius  on  the  cuniculus  of  Camillus,  i.  8 
Horatiorum,  Campus  Sacer,  i.  1-59,  456 
Hor>e,  Etruscan,  pecuhar  fonn  of,  i.  34,  365  ; 

buried   with    Ids  master,   276,    432,  456; 

emblem  of  the  passage  of  the  soul,  u.  180  ; 

head  of,  a  sepulchral  decoration,  ii.453 
Horse-cock,  or  cock-horse,  ii.  83 
Horta,  a  goddess  of  the  Etruscans,  i.  Ivii. 

68,  140 ;  ancient  Etruscan  town,  140.     See 

Orte 
Hostia,  an  Etruscan  goddess,  i.  68 
Hot  springs  of  Etruria,  i.   157,  176;  ii.  202, 

270,  272 
Houses,  Etnisean,  i.  Ixv.:  ii.  348,  350 
Human  sacrifices,  made  by  the  Etruscans,  i. 

422,  478;  illustrated  on  monuments,  ii.  178, 

179,  456 
Hut-ums  from  ,\lba  Longa,  i.  Ixix. ;  ii.  457 
Huts,    primitive,    or    scpulclues,    found    in 

Bologna,  ii.  535 
Hydria,  form  of,  i.  ex. 
Hypnos.  in  bronze,  ii.  425 
Hypopodiura,  i.  41,  307 


INDEX. 


561 


KYLIKEIOV. 


I. 


Iii()r,s,  of  biMnzc,  ii.  48'J,  olG;  of  tcrni-cottu, 

i.  267 
Igilium,  ii.  2:58 
II  I'untone,  tombs  at,  ii.  281 
InKhirami,  on  Etruscan  customs,  i.  310;  on 
the  Fonte  .Sotterra,  ii.  12.5 :  on  Castiglino 
Bernardi  as  tlio  site  of  Vctuloiiia,  l()(i ;  on 
the  pi-cteiuled  Vctulonia  of  Albt  rti,  208;  on 
the  festive  scenes  in  tho])ainted  tombs,  326; 
his  labours  and  works,  127 

Villa,  ii.  1.37 

Inuus,  i.  297 

iNsciai'TioN's,  Ktruscan,  usual  on  sepulchral 
furniture,  i.  42;  cut  on  the  fac^ades  of  tombs, 
i.  94,  180,  18(i ;  ii.  6,  l:J,  16, 4'),  46  ;  difHculty 
of  reading  in  such  cases,  16;  within  tombs, 
i.  94,  243,  244.  240,  2-5.3,  327,  330,  333,  336, 
338,  339,  347,  349—3.53,  364—307,  385, 
398 ;  ii.  51,  52,  57,  59,  133,  408,  4:58,  443, 
451 ;  in  roads,  i.  119,  205  ;  on  cliffs,  63  ;  ii. 
112  ;  on  statues,  i.  1,53  ;  ii.  90,  95,  100,  112, 
188,479;  on  reliefs,  100;  on  a  shib,  424 ; 
on  sarcophau;i  and  in-ns,  i.  477  ;  ii.  86,  101, 
131,  185,  310,  329,  338,  444;  on  ntdm,  112, 
188;  ii.  490;  on  tiles,  306,318,  329;  ou 
vases,  i.  ci. ;  172,  405  ;  ii.  224;  on  bronzes, 
27,  88,  89,  104,  105,  402,  404,  427,478,  497; 
on  ag:old  fthiihu  485;  on  silver  bowls,  486;  i. 
209  ;  inlaid,  i.  234 ;  tilled  with  paint,  ii.  18C; 
bilingual,  300,  343,  370,  388,440,4.56;  at 
Orvioto.  45,  40;  at  Chiusi,  369;  at  Perugia, 
424,  438,  440,  451 ;  at  Eologna,  530 

,  Greek,  ii.  184;  on  vases,  i.  Ix.xiv.  xeiii. 

c.  405;  ii.  113,  4()7,  474,491 

■ ,  Latin,  in  Etruscan  tombs,  i.99,  244,248, 

335 ;  ii.  447 ;  with  Etruscan  peculiarities, 
i.  100;  referring  to  Etruria,  222,  232;  ii. 
273,487;  on  vases,  405;  on  altars,  279; 
Christian  in  Etruscan  cemeteries,  i.  104, 
440  ;  on  the  Palcstrina  ciatu^  ii.  498 

,  I'elasgic,  on  a  pot,  i.  271 

,  I'unic,  on  a  silver  l)owl,  ii.  502 

,  Euganean,  i.  xxxvii. 

,  I'lnbrian,  ii.  4<S0 

,  I'mbriaii  and  Latin,  ii.  456 

,  like  Etruscan,  found  in  the  T3roI  and 

Styria,  i.  .^xxvii. 
Intoxication,  one  of  the  dcliglits  of  the  ancient 

lOlysiuin,  ii.  32() 
Ipliigeiieia,  on  Etruscan  unis,  ii.  93,  168,  303, 

304,  422,  447.  448,  455 
Iron  of  Elba,  ii.  215 

Ischia,  ruined  town  or  castle,  i.  GO ;  an  Etrus- 
can site,  489 
Isis,  tomb  of,  i.  209,  457  i 

Islands,  floating,  i.  143,  144,  495  ;  ii.  29 
Isola  Eaniese,  i.  2,  13  ;  not  the  arx  of  Veii, 
25,  28;    not  ilie   castle  of  the  Eabii,  28, 
29 
Istia,  ii   276 

Itali;in  nobles,  i.  210  :  hospitality,  210,  215 
Italv,  little  explored,  i.  183;  ii.  1 
ItinVraries,  i.  63,  HI,  220,  290,  431,  436;  IL 

09,211,313,374 
Ivory,  ciu-vings  in,  i.  407,  415;  ii.   104,  501  ; 
cup,  362 


J. 


J,\NUS,  an  Etruscan  god,  i.  Iviii.  ;  head  ou 
coins,  ii.  190,  237 

Jason,  mirror  of,  ii.  88 ;  swallowed  by  the 
dragon,  449  ;  vomited  by  tlie  dragon,  472 

Jewellery  found  in  Etruria,  i.  Ixxxi. ;  classified 
as  ])rehistoric,  Ixxxi. ;  Tyrrhene,  Ixxxii.  ; 
Etruscan,  Ixxxiii. ;  in  tombs,  224,  208,  209, 
410,  415,  487  ;  ii.  242  ;  in  tlie  Museum  of 
I'ei  ugia,  ii.  428  ;  in  the  iluseo  (ircgoriano, 
484 — 186  ;  Etruscan  passion  for,  i.  476 ; 
Gaulish,  found  in  Ktruria,  ii.  130;  from 
Palesti'ina,  500 ;  sliam,  in  Greek  tombs, 
5;53 

Jewish  analogies  in  Etruscan  nionunients,  i. 
xxxix.  321 

Judicial  .scenes  ou  Etruscan  monuments,  ii. 
176;  315 

Juno,  the  Etruscan,  i.  Iv. ;  called  Thalna,  Iv. ; 
ii.  483  ;  hurled  thunder-bolts,  i.  Ivi. ;  Curi- 
tis,  107 ;  temple  of,  at  Veii,  7,  25 ;  at 
Ealerii,  107,  110;  at  Populonia,  ii.  216; 
at  Perugia,  435 

Junon  inscribed  in  a  tomb,  i.  248,  286 

Junones,  female  genii,  i.  lix.  285 ;  not  to  be- 
eonfoundcd  with  Lasie,  288.  Hee  Genii 
and  Dkmoxs. 

Jupiter,  the  Etruscan  Tina  or  Tinia,  i.  liv. ; 
liurled  three  sorts  of  thunderbolts,  Iv. ; 
wooden  statue  of,  ii.  216  ;  and  Alcmena  ou 
a  vase,  ii.  461 ;  giving  birth  to  Minerva, 
469  ;  with  the  gods  in  council,  409 


Kalpis,  fonn  of  the,  i.  ex.,  cxi. 

Kantharos,  fomi  of  the,  i.  cxvii. 

Karchesion,  form  of  the,  i.  cxvii. ;  ii.  360 

Katabothra,  i.  Ixiii. 

Kelebe,  form  of  the,  i.  cxii. 

Ker,  i.  288  ;  ii.  168,  378 

Keras,  i.  exxii. 

Kestner,  Chev.,  discovered  tombs  at  Corneto, 
i.  368,  371 ;  on  the  tombs  of  Tarnuinii,  370 

Keystone,  with  sculptured  head,  i.  102,  104; 
ii.  145,  421 

Kings,  Etruscan,  explained,  i.  Ii. 

Kircherian  Museum,  ii.  495 

Kitchen,  representation  of,  in  tombs,  ii.  53,  54  ; 
Etruscan,  152 

Kliigmann,  \)x.,  on  the  dates  of  Etruscan  in- 
scriptions, i.  xlix. ;  on  the  Amazon  sarco- 
phagus, ii.  102 

Koppa  m  I'elasgic  alphabet,  i.  272  ;  on  I)oric 
vases,  282;  in  Etruscan  alphabet,  xlviii. ; 
ii.  224 

Kothon,  form  of  the,  i.  cxviii. 

Kotyliskos,  fonn  of,  i.  cxxv. 

Kotylos,  i.  cxx. 

Krater,  forms  of,  i.  cxi.  cxii. ;  ii.  SI 

Krateriskos,  form  of,  i.  cxix. 

Kreagra;,  or  Hesh-hooks,  i.  411  ;  ii.  477 

Kyaihos,  forms  of,  i.  cxvi.  cxx. ;  ii.  471 

Kylix,  forms  of,  i.  cxx.  exxi. ;  of  (Jltos  and 
Euxitlieos,  405 

Kylikeion,  i.  354,  330 ;  ii.  57 


VOL.    U. 


562 


INDEX. 


LA   15ADIA. 


La  Hadia,  at  Ficsole,  ii.  127 

Labranda  in  Caria,  ii.  118 

Labro,  ii.  69 

Labyrinth  in  Etruscan  tombs,  i.  483 ;  so-called, 

bt'ncatli  Cliiusi,  ii.  296.  297 ;  at  Voltcrra,  ii. 

loS ;  in  the  tomb  of  Porsena,  34-5,  348 ;  in 

the  Pogg-io  Gajella,  353 — 356 
Lacus  Alsii'tinus,  i.  59,  222 

Ciminus,  i.  146 

Prelius.  or  Aprilis,  i.  495  ;  ii.  223,  230 ; 

island  in  it,  230 

Sabatinus,  i.  59 

Statonieusis.  i.  493,  494  ;  ii.  19 

Tarquinieusis.     Sec  Volsiuiensis. 

Thrasymenas,  i.  495  ;  ii.  414. 

Vadiuiouis,  i.  142,  495 

■Volsiniensis,  i.  494;  ii.  26,  29 


Lago  di  Baceano,  i.  56 

Bassano,  i.  142.  See  Vadimonian  Lake 

Bolsena,  i.   494;   ii.   19;    an    extinct 

crater,  29 

Bracciano,  i.  59 

• Castiglioue,  i.  495;  ii.  223,  230 

Chiusi,  ii.  337,  368 

Ciliegeto,  ii.  108 

Garda,  i.  xxviii. 

!Martignano,  i.  59 

Mczzano.  i.  492,  494  :  ii.  19 

Montcpnlciano,  ii.  3G8 

Stracciacappa,  i.  59 

Trasimeno,  ii.  414 

•  Yico,  i.  146 


Lajard,  M.,  on  scenes  in  the  tombs  of  Tar- 

quinii,  i.  324 
Lake,  full  of  Etruscan  bronzes,  ii.  108 
Lakes  of  Etruria,  containing  islands,  i.  494 ; 

drained  by  the  Etruscans,  i.  Ixiii.  55 
Lamps,  Etruscan,  i.  Ixxiii.  ;  ii.  105 ;  of  Cor- 

tona,  402—405;  sepulchral,  404,  442 
Landslips,  ii.  109 
Laniista,  an  Etruscan  word,  i.  71 
Lan/.i,  on  the  Etruscan  tongue,  i.  xlvii. 
Laocoon  on  an  Etruscan  urn,  ii.  303 
Laran,  an  Etruscan  deity,  ii.  483 
Lares,  Etruscan  origin  of,  i.  lix. ;  terra-cotta, 

from  the  Hcgulini-Galassi  tomb,  267 ;   ii. 

483 
Lars,  an  Etruscan  pra-nomen,  ii.  357 ;   dis- 
tinguished from  Lar,  357 

Piirsena,  ii.  345.     Sec  Porsena 

Tolumnius,  i.  22,  47,  364 

LarviD,  on  vases,  ii.  78 

Lasa,  i.  lix.,  288 ;  ii.  56,  429 

Lateran  Museum,  relief  with  the  devices  of 

three  Etruscan  cities,  i.  234,  445  ;  ii.  273 
Latium,  Cvclopcan  cities  of,  ii.  119,  246,  249, 

251,  256' 
Layard,  Sir  A.  II.,  arches  discovered  by,  in 

Assyria,  i.  Ixvii. 
Lebes,  forms  of,  i.  xci.,  cxiii. ;  ii.  366 
Lecna,  ii.  17 
Lcctistemia,  i.  310 
Leghorn,  ii.  69 
Leinth,  ii.  429 
Leja,  valley  of  the,  i.  189 
Lekane,  forms  of,  i.  ex. 
Lekythos,  forms  of,  i.  cxxiii.  cxxiv. 


M-T-XENAS. 

Le  Murelle,  i.  439 

,  near  Saturnia,  ii.  288 

Lemur,  Etruscan,  in  the  museum  at  Volterra, 
ii.  189 

Lenoir,  on  the  Ponte  della  Badia,  i.  443 

Lepaste,  form  of,  i.  cxxi. 

Lepsius,  Prof.,  on  the  origin  of  the  Etruscans, 
i.  XX  wiii. ;  on  the  Pelasgic  alpliabet,  i.  272, 
273  ;  on  the  pottery  of  Ca.>re,  282 ;  on  the 
coins  of  Cortona,  ii.  399 

Leucothea,  i.  292 

Levezow,  on  the  Gorgon,  ii.  221 

Levii,  tomb  of  the,  i.  100 

Lewis,  Mr.,  on  a  bronze  figure  from  Grosseto, 
ii.  232 

Liano,  i.  120. 

Lictors,  Etruscan  origin  of,  i.  20;  represented, 
ii.  112,  176 

Liglitning  drawni  from  heaven,  i.  Ii.  Ixii. ;  ii.  22 

Liguria,  confines  with  Etruria,  ii.  03 

Lilliann,  ii.  132 

Lions,  Etruscan,  i.  33 ;  ii.  296 ;  painted  iu 
tombs,  i.  326  ;  ii.  340  ;  guardians  of  .sepul- 
chres, i.  33,  199,  250 ;  ii.  488  ;  of  stone,  as 
acrotcria,  i.  199  ;  decorations  of  tumuli,  ii. 
352 

Lituus,  both  staff  and  trumpet,  i.  254,  333 ; 
ii.  331,  476 

Livy,  on  the  migrations  of  the  Etruscans,  i. 
xxxvi. 

Losna,  the  Etruscan  Diana,  i.  Iviii. ;  ii.  67 

Lotus  Howers  in  tombs,  i.  37 

Louvre,  painted  tiles  in  the,  i.  259  ;  Etruscan 
painted  sarcophagus,  279 

Luca,  ii.  66 

Luccioli,  Sig.,  ii.  343 

Lucignano,  tombs  at,  ii.  373,  388 

Luoumo,  Tarquinius  Priscus,  i.  420 

Lucumones  of  Etruria,  i.  Ii. 

Lrx.i,  an  Etru.scan  site,  ii.  63;  its  port,  63, 
66 ;  not  one  of  the  Twelve,  63  ;  local  re- 
mains, 65;  walls  of  marble,  65  ;  coins  attri- 
buted to,  65 ;  ampliitheatre,  65 ;  excava- 
tions, 65 ;  produce,  66  ;  marble,  67  ;  mean- 
ing of  the  word,  67 

Lunghini,  Sig.,  collection  of,  ii.  366 

Lupo,  ii.  223 

Lycas,  the  demon,  ii.  178 

Lychiius,  ii.  405 

Lycia,  analogy  to  Etruria  in  sepulchral  monu- 
ments, i.  33,  180;  ii.  350;  in  maternal 
genealogies,  i.  xlv.  100 

Lydia,  the  mother-country  of  Etruria,  i.  xxxv. 
xlvi. ;  analogy  to  Etruria  in  its  monuments, 
182,  388,  453,  454  ;  ii.  348  ;  in  its  customs, 
i.  xliv.;  aneicntlv  used  as  synonymous  with 
Etruria,  308 

Lvnceus,  ii.  202 

Lyre,  Etruscan,  i.  307,  314,  320,  376,  379,  396 


M. 


Macavlay.  Lord,  on  tlie  word  Porsena,  ii.  357 
^lanaresc,  Torre  di,  site  of  Eregena.',  i.  220 
Ma(igno,  ii.  117 
!Madonna  delhi  Fea,  ii.  3(i7 
iladonna  di  S.  Luca,  ii.  511 
Miecenas,  Etruscan  origin  of,  ii.  131 ;  mouu- 
ment  to,  at  Arezzo,  379 


INDEX. 


oGu 


M.ICONIA. 

Micouia,  i.  166 

Magionc,  ii.  416 

Mii;j;iiano,  city  iliscovcrcd  near,  ii.  263  ;  re- 
iiiain.s,  265,  266 ;  painted  tomb,  267  ;  exca- 
vations, 267 

Ma^na  Gra-cia,  Greek  tombs  of,  i.  27;  vascij, 
Ixx.xix.  xcn.  cix. ;  ii.  80 

Majjra,  i.  xxx. ;  ii.  63,  6t 

ilaleos,  or  ^[ala'otes,  inventor  of  the  trumpet, 
i.  xliv. ;  439 

Malvasia,  Count,  scavi  of,  ii.  534 

!Manciano,  ii.  288,  289 

Mancini,  Sig.,  llicardo,  his  excavations  at 
Orvieto,  ii.  46 

JIanducus,  effigj-  of,  ii.  192 

!J[aiics,  i.  477 

Mania,  an  Etruscan  goddess,  i.  lix.  Ix.  288 

!>[antua,  an  Etruscan  city,  i.  xxix.  lix.;  ii.  510 

ilantus,  the  Etruscan  I'luto,  i.  Ivii.  lix.  36; 
ii.  166,  192 

!Marl)le,  walls  of,  ii.  6-3  ;  of  Luna,  or  Carrara, 
67;  few  Etruscan  works  of,  i.  Ixxvi. ;  ii.  67; 
used  by  the  Konians,  68  ;  of  the  Marennna, 
i.  Ixxvi;  ii.  67,  188,  209;  .sarcophagi  of,  i. 
245,  402,  4a3  ;  ii.  96,  101,  316,  454 

Marciano,  tombs  at,  ii.  373 

I^Iarcina,  built  by  the  Etruscans,  i.  xxx. 

Maremma,  the,  ii.  194:  its  wild  i)eauties,  203; 
population  and  climate,  203,  204  ;  i)roduce, 
203;  described  by  Danto,  203;  its  im])roved 
/condition,  206 :  excavations  made  by  M. 
>'oel  des  Vergers,  200 ;  ancient  city  in,  des- 
cribed  by  Mr.  Pullan,  i.  cxxvii. 

Marine  deities  on  Etruscan  monuments,  ii.  7, 
171 

monstei-s,  i.  168 ;  ii.   171,  520,  521. 

•Sec  Sea-horses 

Maritime  power  of  Etruria,  i.  Ixi. ;  169,  371 ; 
ii.  138 

Maniage  scenes  on  sarcophagi,  i.  472 ;  on 
vases,  ii.  82,  472;  on  Etruscan  urns,  178 

3Iarruca,  a  thoniy  slirub,  ii.  229 

Mars,  an  Etruscan  god  who  wielded  thunder, 
i.  Ivii.;  the,  of  ^lonte  Falterona,  ii.  Ill 

Marta,  Gravisca  on  its  banks,  i.  431  ;  emissarj- 
of  the  Volsinian  lake,  ii.  30 ;  ancient  cloaca 
and  quay  of,  i.  433,  434 

,  town  of,  ii.  26 

^Martaiia,  island  of,  ii.  29 

Marti-nan<s  lake  of,  i.  59,  222 

.Marzabotto,  bronzes  of,  i.  xxxviii. ;  ii.  542 ; 
excavations  at,  537—543;  an  Etruscan  site, 
538 ;  inscriptions,  542. 

Marzi  collection,  Corneto,  i.  413 

^Masonry,  Etruscan,  i.  Ixvi. ;  no  cement  in, 
14,  91,  166;  ii.  US,  124,  146,  241,  398; 
extraordinary  fray;ments,  i.  12,  13,  122 ; 
rusticated,  49,  81,  104,  167,  213;  ii.  124; 
character  sometimes  determined  by  the 
local  rock,  259 ;  sometimes  iiidei)endent  of 
it,  259  ;  ancient  materials  in  modem  build- 
ings, i.  64;  wedge-cour.ses,  i.  209;  ii.  117; 
diainicton,  i.  80.  iScc Cy<lopean,  Einplcctou, 
Polygonal 

■ ,  Greek  at  Syracuse,  i.  81 

,  lioman,  i.  66.  83,  102,  166 

. ,  Telafgic,  i.  237,  290;  ii.  241,  257- 

260 

Massa,  ii.  198;  not  the  site  of  Vetulouia,  198 

Mastania,  i.  449;  ii.  95,  506 


MO.NKEY. 

!Mastos,  forms  of,  i.  cxviii. 

Maternal  genealogy,  i.  xlv.  100 

^latemum,  i.  490 

^latrai,  relics  found  at,  i.  x.xxvii. 

.Mazzetti,  Sig.  K.,  his  collection,  ii.  298 

MazzuoU,  Sig.  L.,  collection  of  vases,  ii.  376 

.Mean,  an  Etruscan  Fatc,i.  lix.  288  ;ii.  429, 483 

iledea  in  a  car  drawn  by  dragons,  ii.  187 

Medical  science  of  Etruria,  i.  Ixii. 

Meleager,  statue  of,  i.  294;  represented  on  a 
mirror,  ii.  430 

Melon,  tumulus  of  the,  ii.  409 

^lelpum,  au  litruscau  city,  i.  xxix.;  ii.  543 

:\Iemnou,  i.  ;io2 ;  ii.  466,  467,  481 

^lencluus  pursuing  Helen,  ii.  474,  527 

Menicatore,  a  rocking  stone,  i.  173 

ALenrva,  the  I'^truscan  form  of  Minerva,  i.  Iv.; 
on  mirrors,  ii.  429,  482,  483 

Mercury,  called  Turms  by  the  Etruscans,  i. 
Ivii. ;  ii.  483  ;  infernal,  represented  by 
Charun,  192  ;  with  infant  Bacchus,  461  ; 
infant,  as  cattle-lifter,  473  ;  statue  of,  458 

Metellus,  statue  of,  ii.  95 

Mexico,  pyramids,  i.  387 ;  analogies  of  its 
cemeteries  to  those  of  Etruria,  387 

Micali,  on  the  Twelve  Cities,  i.  xxxii. ;  on  the 
origin  of  the  Etruscans,  xxxvi. ;  on  oriental- 
isms in  Etruscan  monuments,  xliii.  ;  the 
tombs  of  ilonteroni,  224 ;  on  rock-hewn 
chairs,  276 ;  tlie  Porta  all'  Arco,  ii.  143 : 
the  walls  of  Cosa  and  Satuniia,  254,  285  ; 
on  canopi,  309 

Miccino,  the,  i.  103. 

^Micon,  a  painter  of  Amazons,  ii.  115 

Midas,  on  a  vase,  ii.  473 

Migliarini,  Prof.,  ii.  105 

Mignone,  the,  i.  432 

Millingen,  Mr.,  i.  xxxviii.;  ii.  127  ;  on  Vela- 
thri,  139;  on  Populonia,  215;  on  coins  at- 
tributed to  Clusium,  292 

Minerva,  winged,  with  an  owl  on  her  hand,  i. 
141;  statue  of,  in  the  Uftizi,  ii.  86;  repre- 
sented on  P.-inatheuaic  vases,  i.  xciii. ;  ii. 
467  ;  called  Mem-va,  in  Etruscan,  i.  Iv. ;  ii. 
483  ;  in  bronze,  with  wuigs,  478 

Mines,  ancient,  of  copper  and  tin,  near  Jfassa, 
i.  Ixxui. ;  near  Poj)ulonia,  ii.  200;  now  re- 
worked by  an  EngUshman,  209 

Minio,  the,  i.  432 

^Minotaur,  i.  409  ;  ii.  466 

Miuuou.s,  Etruscan,  i.  Ixxviii. ;  clas-itied, 
Ixxix. ;  in  a  touib  at  Bolsena,  ii.  27 ;  in  the 
Museum  at  Florence,  88,  107  ;  in  the  Mu- 
seum at  Perugia,  428-430;  in  the  Gregorian 
Museum,  ii.  481;  gilt,  481  ;  with  reliefs,  481 

Misauello,  ii.  540 ;  well-tombs,  540 ;  dolmens 
541  ;  basement,  541 ;  sepulchral  fu  viture, 
541 ;  jewellery,  543 

^lisauo,  ii.  538  :  cells  or  tombs,  539 

Modena,  an  Etruscan  site,  i.  xxix  ;  ancient 
tombs  and  relics  at,  i.  xxxviii.;  pottery  like 
that  of  Arezzo,  ii.  384 

Mommsen,  Prof.,  on  the  origin  of  the  Etrus- 
cans, i.  xxxviii.;  on  the  Etruscan  language 
and  alph.ibet,  xlix.  ;  on  the  name  Agylla, 
2;i0  ;  on  Punicuni,  294 ;  on  the  date  of  the 
(cx  f/rt/iY,  ii.  458 

Money,  primitive,  ii.  109.     <SV(  Coins_ 

ilonkev,  in  an  Etruscan  painting,  ii.  54,  334 ; 
tomb  of  the,  330 

O  u  2 


5&i 


INDEX. 


MOXTALCrXO. 

Montalcino,  ii.  1;J4 

aiontalto,  i.  437  ;  inn,  439,  467  ;  relics  found 

at,  :299 
Montapcrti,  Etruscan  tomb  at,  ii.  131 
Montarozzi,  i.  302,  3.56.    .Sic  Takqvixii 
^MoxTEFiASCoxE,  roads  to,  i.  488;  ii.  29;  its 
wine,    30,   32 ;   not   Volsinii,  23,    31 ;    nor 
Trossulum,    31  ;    antiquity,    30  ;    perhaps 
CEnarea,  32 ;  more  probably  Fanuni  Vol- 
tumuae,  32 
MoxTEi'ULCiAXO,  ii,  370  ;  antiquity  of,  371  ; 
Etruscan  relics,  371 ;  \vine,  371 :  roads  to,  370 
Montcroni,  tumuli  of,  i.  222 — 224 
Monterosi,  i.  62  ;  inns,  63 
Monte  Abatone,  i.  273 

Argentaro,  ii.  238,  252 

Cahello,  excayations  at,  i.  164 

Cetona,  ii.  363 

Cimino,  i.  146 

Falterona,  ii.  107  ;  bronzes  and  coins 

found  on,  108—111 

della  Guardia,  ii.  oil 

Gualandro,  ii.  414 

Leone,  i.  cxxvii. 

Lucchetti,  i.  63 

Lupolo,  i.  -56 

Memno,  ii.  288 

Musino,  i.  57,  58 

d'Oro,  i.  275 

Tatone,  tombs  at,  ii.  208 

Pescali,  i.  cxxyii.  ;  ii.  223 

Quagliero,  i.  389 

Eazzano,  i.  56 

llomano,  i.  301 

— fiotondo,  i.  137;  town  of,  ii.  198 

Salaja,  ii.  367 

Somglio,  i.  58 

Venere,  i.  147 

Montoi-so,  i.  138 

Monsters,  guardians  of  sepulchres,  i.  364 
ifoira,  game  of,  represented  on  yases,  ii.  463 
Moscona,  hill   of,  mistaken   for    the  site  of 

Kuselhr,  ii.  225,  230 
Mouldings,  Etruscan,  i.  179,    180,   186,  203, 

216,386;  ii.  11,  15 
Mugnano,  i.  145,  166 

Miller  on  the  Twelve  Cities,  i.  xxxii. ;  on 
the  Etru.scau  era,  xxxiv. :  the  origin  of  the 
Eti-uscans,  sxxyii.;  on  Mania,  Ix.;  on  Fc-s- 
cennium,  i.  96,  110;  on  Falerii,  i.  110,  112; 
on  .Equum  Faliscum,  113  ;  on  Tarchon  and 
Tyrrhenus,  418  ;  on  the  Etru.scan  era,  418  ; 
on  Demaratus,  420 ;    on  Tarquin's  conquest 
of  Etmria,  421 ;  on  the  tomb  of  Porsena,  ii. 
347,  349;    on   the    ancient   walls   at    San 
CoiTielio,  391 
Muiidus,  mouth  of  Oreus,  i.  Ix. 
;Murcia,  or  ilurtia,  the  Etruscan  Tenus,  i.  57 
Mure,  Col.,  on  the  site  of  Pisa,  ii.  71 
MuiTay,Mr.  A.,  on  the  origiji  of  the  Etruscans, 
i.   xl.;    on   the   analogy   of   the   Etruscan 
scarabwi  to  the  early  silver  coins  of  Thrace, 
Ixxvii. 
Mii.siii-na,  its  discovery,  i.  188  ;  its  walls,  189; 
gates,   189 ;    necropolis,  190 ;    monuments 
from,  at  Yiterbo,  153,  191 
Mu.seo   Bi-uschi,  i.  406.    .See  Coexeto-Tar- 

QUIXIA. 

Civico,  Cliiusi,  ii.  298 ;  statuc-ums,  299 ; 

statues,  299;    archaic  cippi,  300;  cinerary 


MYTHOLOGY. 

urns,  302— C04;  sarcophagi,  304;  terra- 
cotta sarcophagi  and  ash-chests,  305,  306; 
slab  with  alphabets,  306  ;  bucdicro,  or  black 
ware,  307,  308  :  Etruscan  cdiiopi,  308,  309 ; 
bronzes,  309, 313;  pottery,  310;  stranse  cine- 
rary pot,  310—312;  painted  vases,  312,  313 

Museo  Etrusco,  Cometo,  i.  401 ;  sarcophagus 
of  the  ".Sacerdote,"  402;  of  the  Magnate 
and  others,  403,  404 ;  ki/lix  of  Oltos  and 
Euxitheos,  405  :  painted  vases,  405 

'  Etiusco,   Florence,  ii.  75;  black  pot- 

tery or  bucchcro,  75—80  ;  painted  pottery, 
80 — 84;  unpainted  pottery,  84;  jewellery 
and  glass,  85  ;  gems,  86  ;  sepulchral 
inscriptions,  86  ;  bronzes,  86,  102 ;  the 
Minerva,  86  ;  the  Chimara,  89;  the  Orator, 
95;  cinerary  unis,  89— 95  ;  Amazon  sarco- 
phagus, 96 ;   terra-cottas,  105 

Gregoriano,  its  origin,  i.  487  ;  ii.  452  ; 


vestibule,  453;  cinerary  urns,  454,  455;  the 
sarcopliagus,  456  ;  Alban  liut-unis,  457 ; 
terra-cottas.  458 ;  vases,  i.  272,  282 ;  ii.  46& 
— 475 ;  /:i/lik('s,  472  ;  bronzes,  475 — 484  ; 
amiour  and  weapons,  476;  statues,  478; 
candelabra,  478  ;  caskets,  480  ;  mirrors,  481 
—483 ;  clog.>,  484  ;  jewellery,  i.  270  ;  ii.  484 
— 486 ;  copies  of  paintinirs  in  Etruscan 
tombs,  i.  325,  326,  370,  376';  ii.  486,  487 

Kircheriano,  ii.  495 ;    works  in  stone 


and  tcrra-cotta,  496 ;  bronzes,  496 ;  the 
Palestrinaca.sket,497 — 499;  the  Palestrina 
Treasure,  499—503 ;  the  Vulcian  frescoes, 
500-508 

Museum  of  Arezzo,  ii.  38-5 — 389 ;  bronzes,  385  ; 
pottery,  386  :  Hercules  and  the  Amazons, 
386 :  urns.  388 

of  Bologna,  ii.  519.     >Sec  Bologxa. 

,  Etruscan,  on  the  Capitol,  ii.  488 ;. 

presented  to  Pnmc  by  Si;,'.  Augusto  Cas- 
tellani,  488  ;  vases,  489—492  ;  bronzes,  492, 
493;  tablets  ui  ivory,  494;  well-tomb  of 
terra-cotta,  494  ;  pottery,  495 

of  Grosseto,   unis  and  pottery,  ii. 

224  ;  bowl  with  Etniscan  alphabet,  224 

of  Perugia,  ii.  422 ;  urns,  422—424  ? 

celebrated   inscription,   424  ;     cippi,   425  ; 

j  bronzes,  426  ;  jewellery  and  mirrors,  428 — ■ 
430;  vases  and  terra-cottas,  431 ;  sarcoi)ha- 
,gus,  432 

of  Yolterra,  ii.  160  ;  urns  of  alabas- 
ter. 162  ;  myths  on  them,  164 — 174  ;  other 
reliefs,  175 ;"  processions,  176, 177,  182, 183  ; 
sacrificial  scenes,  178,  179;  death-bed 
scenes.  180,  181  ;  unis  of  the  Cacina  and 
other  Etruscan  families,  185,  186;  terra- 
cottas, 187  :  i»ainted  vases,  189 ;  bronzes, 
189;  candelabra,  190;  coins,  190;  jewel- 
leij,  191 

Musical  instrument,  ii.  444 

^Musignano,  i.  468 ;  Etruscan  relics  at,  469 — 
472  :  portraits  of  the  Bonaparte  family,  469 

Mutina,  jirobably  an  Etruscan  town,  i.  xxix. 

Mycena',  Treasury  of,  i.  265,  268;  ii.  154; 
walls  of,  ii.  25o :  gate  of,  i.  33;  stifee  of, 
resemble  those  of  Felsina,  l.\ix. 

Myths,  discrepancy  between  Greek  and  Etrus- 
can, i.  479  ;  ii.  360 

,  Hellenic,  nirelv  illustrated  in  Etruscan 

wall-paintinss,  ii.  505 

Mythology  of  Etruria,  i.  liv.— Ix. 


INDEX. 


oG5 


N. 

Nail!?  in  tombs,  i.  41,  •224,  2G8,  398,  4.55 ;  ii. 

14,  242,  driven  into  ti'iuiilcs  to  mark  time,  i. 

Iv. ;  ii.  2.) ;  in  tlie  hands  of  Etruscan  deities, 

i.  Iviii.  287  ;  ii.  25 
JJamcs  of  cities,  chan-jed  of  old,   ii.  196 
]Vanos,  Etruscan  name  of  Ulysses,  ii.  ,'399 
Nasones,  tomb  of  tlic,  i.  Ixviii.  47  ;  ii.  443 
Nazzano,  an  Ktruscan  site,  i.  137 
Necklace,  worn  by  men,  i.  269,  313,  366 ;  ii. 

378,  454 ;   Gaulish,  ii.  130 ;  of  gold,  377, 

428,  543 
Nenfro,  volcanic  rock,  i.  4 
Nei'I,  anciently  one  of  the  keys  of  Ktruria,  i. 

64,  84 ;  walls,  83 ;  tombs,  84  ;  remains  at, 

85;  bond  between  Xepete  and  Sutrium,  85; 

ancient  names,  86 
Neptune,  an  Ktruscan  deity,  i.  Iviii, ;  on  vases, 

ii.  467,  468  ;  on  mirrors,"  482 
Nethuns,  Etruscan  name  of  Neptune, i.  hiii. ; 

ii.  482 
Newbold,  Captain,  on   the  monuments  near 
^  Chittoor,  ii.  288 
Newton,  Mr.  Charlc!  T.,  on  an  Etruscan  sar- 

cophajinis  in  the  British  Museum,  i.  280;  on 

an  oiiioclioi',  465 
Newton,  ilr.,  liis  excavations  near  Tienza,  ii. 

134 
Nibby,  on  the  lensth  of  the  Ponte  Sodo  at 

Veii,  i.  11  ;   on  Isola  Farnese,  28;  on  the 

castle  of  the  Eabii,  29 ;  on  tlie  :inii)hitheatre 

of  Sutri.  71  ;  on  the  walls  of  Nepi,  S3 ;  on 

those  of  Falleri,  106  ;  on  the  three  towns  of 

theEalisci,  112 
Niches,  sepulchral,  i.  10,  26,  92,  103, 182,  203, 

209,215,  218,484;  ii.  11,  13 
Nicknames,  used  in  Italy  as  of  old,  i.  Ill 
NiEiiUHU,  on  the  Twelve  Cities,  i.  x.x.xii. ;  the 

Etruscan   era,   xxxiv.  ;    the  origin  of  the 

Etruscans,  xxxvi. ;  on  the  feudal  system  of 

Etruria,  lii. ;    on  Etruscan  civilization,    i. 

ciii. ;  on  the  ouniculus  of  Camillus,  i.   8 ; 

on  the   Falisci,   112,    113;    on    C;ere,  233; 

that  Home  was  at  one  time  Etruscan,  421 ; 

on  the  legend  of  Demaratus,  420  ;  on  Yulci, 

445  ;  the  servile  insurrection  at  Volsinii,  ii. 

22  ;  on  the  theatre  of  Fiesole,  124  :  on  Popu- 

lonia,  215;  the  tomb  of  Porscna,  346;  on 

Porsenna,  357  ;    on  Cortona,  400  ;  mistakes 

through  ignorance  of  Italian   localities,  i. 

148;  ii.  124 
Niobidrc,  sarcophagus  of  tlic,  i.  479,  ii.  453 ; 

number  of  the,  i.  479 
Noiil  des  Vergers,  M.,  on   tlie   Marcnnna,  ii. 

200.     !Sce  Des  Vergers 
Nola,  built  by  the  Etruscans,  i.  xxx. ;    vases 

of,  xcix.  cix.  461,  471 
Norba,  bastion  of,  i.  104;  ii.  248,  250;  sewer 

of,  119,  251  ;  round  tower,  248 
NoitiiilA.  discovery  of  its  necropolis,  i.  193; 

temi)lc-t(imbs,    196;     M-ulpture,  199— 201  ; 

si)cj-ulati()ns    on,    198,    201;     tombs,    202; 

mouldings,  203  ;  no  inscrijjtions,  204  ;    few 

excavations,    204 ;     site    of    the    Etruscan 

town,  204 
Noric    Alps,   Etruscan    relics    among   the,  i. 

xxxvi. 
Norcia,  in  Sabina,  vase  from,  ii.  470 


OSSIAUV    I'llTS. 

Nortia,  the  Etruscan  I'ortuna,  i.  Iv.  140,  ii. 
24  ;  her  temple  at  Volsinii,  a  national 
calendar,  24  ;  at  Fercntum,  i.  158;  equiva- 
lent to  Atropos,  ii.  25 

Novem  Pagi,  i.  60  ;  ii.  '.',{) 

Novensiles,  the  Nine  gods  of  thunder,  i.  hi. 

Nuceria,  an  Etruscan  town,  i.  xxx. 

Numerals,  Etruscan,  i.  xlix. ;  on  dice,  1.  ;  on 
tombs,  187 

Nuptial  scenes  on  Etruscan  sarcophagi,  i.  472; 
ii.  317 ;  on  vaso>s,  82,  472 

Nuraghe  of  Sardinia,  i.  265,  278 ;  ii.  154  ; 
described,  154  ;  by  whom  constructed,  155 

Nurtia,  i.  204.     iSce'Nortia 


0. 


CEnii'US,  on  Etruscan  unis,  ii.  92,  166,  377, 

456  ;  on  vases,  472 ;  caricatured,  472 
ffinarea,  rebellious  slaves  of,  ii.  32  ;  thought 

to  be  Volsinii  or  Volaterra;,  32,  137 ;  per- 

hajjs  ^lonte  Fiascone,  32 
(Eniadu",  arched  gate  at,  i.  Ixvii. ;  ii.  250 
Qinoanda,  arches  at,  i.  Ixvii. ;  ii.  251 
Giuomaus,  myth  of,  on  Etruscan  urn,  ii.  92, 

424,  455  ;  on  a  vase,  389 
Oil-dealer's  prayer,  on  a  vase,  ii.  464 
Oinochoe,  forms  of,  i.  exiv.  cxv. ;  from  Vulci, 

465 ;  of  bronze,  ii.  103,  104 
Olpe,  forms  of,  i.  cxiv.  409 
Ombronc,  ii.  276 
Opus  incertum,  pavement  of,  in  an  Etruscan 

tomb,  ii.  Ill 
Okhetello,  ii.  240  ;    lagoon,  240  ;  polygonal 

walls,  241  ;    tombs,  241 ;  origin  of  name, 

243  ;  inns,  243 
Orcle,  i)robablv  the  ancient  name  of  Norcliia, 

i.  204 
Orestes,  on  Etruscan  urns,  ii.  93,  170,   171, 

303,  364,  377  ;  on  a  sarcophagus,  456 
Oriental  analogies  of  Etruscan  monuments,  i. 

xliv. — xlvi. 
Orioli  first  described  Castcl  d'Asso,  i.  183;  and 

Norcliia,  204 ;  on  Surrina,    152  ;  on  Aquaj 

Passeris,   157  ;    on  Castel  d'Asso,   184 ;  on 

Musarna,  192 
Oriuolo,  i.  60 
Orlando,  his  cave  at  Sutri,  i.  77 ;  fiijure  at 

Pitigliano,  499 
Ornaments,  gold,  in  tombs.     Sti  Gold 
Ornano,  ii.  19 

Orpheus  and  Eurydice,  tomb  of,  ii.  340,  343 
Orsini,  legend  of  the,  i.  499 
OuTi:,  the  ancient  i[ort;i,  i.  136  ;  ])eculiar  site, 

li9;  inn,   140;   excavations,  141;    painted 

tomb  destroyed,  142 
OitviETo,  not  the  site  of  Volsinii,  ii.  23 ;  roads 

to,  36,  39 ;  ancient  name  unknown,  40  ;  not 

tlie  IJrbiventus   of  Proco])ius,  41 ;    tumbs, 

41  ;  excavations  at  Crocitis.so  del  Tufi«.  42; 

inscriptions,  45;  antiiiuiiies,  40 — 48,  76.84; 

tlic  Delia  Faina  collection.  46;  Tomb.»  delle 

due  liighe,  4S  ;  Tomba  Golini,  52 — 60  ;  inn, 

(>1  ;   Duomo,  61 
Orvinium,  i.  388 
Oscan  language,  i.  xlvii. 
Osci,  the,  i.  xxviii. 
O.ssa,  river,  ii.  238 
Ossuary  jiots  at  Vilianova,  ii.  514 


5U6 


INDEX. 


OSTKICH   EGGS. 

Ostrich  eggs  in  Etrusoan  tombs,  i.  223,  457  ; 

imitated  in  tpnii-cotta,  4o7 
Owl,  iji  rt-lief,  in  an  Ktruscan  tomb,  ii.  444 
Owl-facctl    vases,   the,    of    Seliliemanii,    are 

uothiiijLc  but  Cdiiojji,  ii.  ;509 
Ox  suspended  to  a  beam,  ii.  -32 
OxTbaphon,  form  of,  i.  exii. ;  Corinthian,  ii. 

4U0 


P. 


Packixo-xeedle,  Etruscan,  ii.  266 

P.KSTVM,  S(T  PoSEIDOXIA. 

Paglia,  ii.  39 

Painted  Tomhs,  i.  Ixxxiv. ;  at  Veii,  33  ;  at 
Bomarzo,  168 ;  at  Conieto,  305,  sec  Tarquinii ; 
at  Vulci,  449 ;  at  Ciere,  247—249,  250 ;  at 
the  city  discovered  near  ^lagliano,  ii.  267  ; 
at  Chiusi,  323—327,  329,  330—335,  336, 
340,  342—344,  350  ;  two  by  the  same  hand, 
328;  lost  or  destroyed,  i!  142,  384,  385, 
398  ;  ii.  327,  340;  scenes  in,  how  far  sym- 
bolical, i.  323;  ii.  326 ;  parti-coloured  figures 
in,  i.  34—37,  249,  326,  367,  369  ;  ii.  340 ;  in 
Greece,  i.  38  ;  ii.  330 

tiles,  i.  257—264 

Paintings,  Etruscan,  in  tombs,  i.  Ixxxiv. 
34 ;  the  most  ancient,  38 ;  injured  by  at- 
mo.sphere,  309  ;  by  damp,  247,  309  ;  ii.  61  ; 
like  those  on  vases,  i.  36,  367,  375  ;  arc  in 
fresco,  i.  325 ;  copies  of,  ii.  487  ;  like  the 
frescoes  of  Pompeii,  334,  466  ;  on  sepulchral 
ums,  ii.  440 

Palicstric  games,  represented  in  tombs,  i.  364, 
374  ;  u.  323,  330,  34^,  343  ;  on  vases,  472 

Palazzolo  in  Sicily,  ii.  119 

Palestrina,  ciitc  found  at,  ii.  480 

■ casket,  the,  li.  497—499 

Treasure,  in  the  Kircherian  ilu- 

seum,  ii.  499 — 503 

Palidoro,  i.  221 

Palo,  the  site  of  Alsium,  i.  221 ;  inn,  224  ; 
shore  at,  225 

Pamphylia,  shields  on  tombs,  i.  200 

Panatlicnaic  vases,  i.  xciii.  cvui.  409  ;  ii.  465, 
467 

Panchina,  ii.  144,  152,  162 

Panthers  in  Etruscan  tombs,  i.  36,  308,  312, 
324,  326,  363,  367,  369,  372;  grasped  by 
Diana,  on  a  vase,  ii.  114 

Paolozzi,  Sig.  G.,  collection  of,  ii.  298 

Paolozzi,  Giardino,  the  acropolis  of  Clusium, 
ii.  295 

Paris,  resisting  his  brothers,  on  Etruscan 
urns,  ii.  93,  169,  303,  424,  455 

• ,  Judg-ment  of,  ii.  107,  319,  353 

Parma,  jirobably  an  Etruscan  town,  i.  xxix. 

Pasquinclli,  Sig.,  discoverer  of  an  Etruscan 
citv,  probably  Vetulonia,  ii.  264,  266,  274 

Passage-tombs,  i.  223,  224,  265,  278  ;  ii.  132, 
410 

Passerini,  Sig.,  excavations  at  Moscona,  ii.  234 

Passign;ino,  ii.  415 

Passo  di  Corre?e,  i.  137 

Patera,  i.  cxxii.  475 ;  of  bronze,  with  handles 
in  the  fonn  of  females,  ii.  476 

Patrignone,  the,  ii.  265 

Patroclus,  on  Etruscan  monuments,  i.  449  ;  ii. 
113,  462,  464,  604 


PHYSIOGNOMY. 

Pavement,  in  tombs,  i.268 ;  ii.  Ill ;  Etruscan, 
i.  Ixiii;  ii.  118 

Pediment,  half  the  Xorchian,  i.  200 

PediineJits,  marks  of  dignitv,  i.  199 

Pegasus  combating  a  man,  li.  522 

Peirithoos,  i.  353 

Pelasgi,  first  conquerors  of  Etruria,  i.  xxxiv.; 
colonised  Falerii,  107;  and  Eescennium,  115; 
built  Tanjuinii,  418:  built  the  temple  at 
Pyrgi.290;  Imilt  Agylla,  230  :  built  Alsium, 
221 ;  Pisx',  ii.  70  ;  Satuniia,  2S5  ;  occupied 
Cortona,  399 ;  introduced  letters  into  Lh- 
tium,  i.  xlvi.  272;  worshipped  the  phallic 
Hermes,  ii.  119;  nuisonrv  of,  i.  236,  290, 
291;  ii.  241,  257,  258;  pottery  of,  i.  282; 
wide  extent  of  the  race,  ii.  258 

Pelasgic  alphabet  and  primer,  i.  271,  272  ;  ii. 
133,483:  hexameters,  i.  273;  ii.484;  lan- 
guage, affinity  of,  to  the  Greek,  i.  221 

Pelasgic  towns.     iScv  Cyclopean 

I'eleus  and  Thetis,  on  a  vase,  i.  407,  409 ; 
ii.  113;  on  a  mirror,  483;  and  Atalanta, 
wrestling,  on  a  mirror,  482 

Pelias  and  Medea,  i.  410  ;  ii.  472 

Pelikc,  form  of,  i.  cix. 

Pella,  form  of,  i.  cxxi. 

Pelleuiina,  ii.  330 

Pelops  and  Hi])podameia,  ii.  389 

Penates,  Etruscan,  i.  Iviii.  lix. 

Penelope  and  Telemaclius,  ii.  431 

Pentathlon,  in  Etruscan  tombs,  i.  374;  ii.  342 

Penthesilea,  ii.  169 

Pereta,  ii.  275 

Peris,  tomb  of  the,  ii.  338 

Persephone  in  the  Grotta  dell'  Oreo,  i.  350; 
in  Grotta  Golini.  ii.  59 ;  on  vases,  467, 
470 

Perseus  and  Andromeda,  on  Etruscan  urns,  ii. 
165 

Perugia,  ii.  413;  roads  to,  413;  inns,  416; 
walls,  417 ;  gates,  417  ;  Arch  of  Augustus, 
418  ;  Arco  Marziale,  421 ;  Museum,  422 — 
434 ;  coins,  427 ;  bronzes,  427 ;  mirroi-s, 
430 ;  vases  and  ten-a-cottas,  431  ;  singular 
sarcophagus,  432.     A'cc  Perusia. 

Perusia,  its  antiquity,  ii.  434 ;  history,  434  ; 
destruction  bv  tire,  435 ;  necropolis,  437 — 
451;  Grotta  "dc  Volunni,  437—449;  the 
BagUoni  Collection,  446 ;  other  tombs,  446, 
450 ;  Tempio  di  S.  Manno,  450.  Sec  Pe- 
rugia. 

Peruvians,  polygonal  masonry  of  the,  ii.  257 

Pesticra,  Ea,  ii".  280 

Petroni,  tomb  of  the,  ii.  446 

Peutingerian  table.     Sec  Itineraries 

Phalerte,  i.  250 

Pharus,  tomb  of  the,  ii.  446 

Phiala,  form  of,  i.  cxxii.  cxxiii. 

Philoctetes,  i.  263 ;  ii.  92,  168 

Phocsei.  in  Corsica,  i.  232 

Pho'uician,  origin  of  Etruscan  letters,  i.xlix.; 
imitations  of  Egyptian  and  Assyrian  works, 
ii.  503 

Phrygia,  analogy  to  Etruria,  in  its  alphabet, 
i.  xlix. ;  in  its  monuments,  xliv.,  Ixiv.  33, 
93,  180,  182,  200,  248,  278;  ii.  339,  350; 
shields  on  tombs,  ii.  442 

Phuphluns,  the  Etruscan  Bacchus,  i.  Ivii. ;  ii, 
88,  220  ;  mirror  of,  i.  Ivii.,  Ixxix. 

Physiognomy,  Etruscan,  i.  xU'.  279 


INDEX. 


567 


riANO    DI    I'AI.MA. 

I'iauo  (li  Palina,  remarkable  tombs  at,  ii.  282 

Sultano,  i.  293 

Piansaiio,  i.  489 

Piazza  d'  Armi,  the  Arx  of  Veii,  i.  o,  2D 

del  Mercatello,  ii.  2o 

Piazzano,  il,  ii.  23,  27 

Piedmont,  lotruscaii  inscriptions  in,  i.  xxxviii. 

Pienza,  ii.  I'M 

Pietra  Pertnsa,  i.  9 

Pigmies,  battle  of,  with  cranes,  ii.  114 

Pine-cones,  sepulchral  emblems,  ii.  42,  152, 
180 

Pine-woods  of  old  on  the  coast  of  Ital  v,  i.  435 ; 
ii.  71,  273 

Piombino,  ii.  195,  199,  212 

Pipes,  Etruscan,  i.  xliv.  307,  319,  32G,  337, 3G5 

Piracy,  Ktrusran,  i.  oil.  291 ;  not  indulged  in 
by  Ca>re,  231 

Pirates,  Etruscan,  i.  lii. ;  Tyrrhene,  legend  of, 
169 

PlsA,  ii.  69,  138  ;  port  of,  69  ;  Pelasgic  anti- 
quity of,  70  ;  site  of,  70 ;  local  remains,  71 ; 
towers,  72 ;  necropolis,  72 ;  coins,  72;  Etrus- 
can relics,  73 

Pitigliano,  roads  to,  i.  494,  496  ;  ii.  18  ;  site, 
i.  496  ;  remains  of  antiiiuitv,  497 ;  inn, 
497,  499  :  necropolis,  497,  498 ;  legend  of 
Count  Orsini,  499 

Pit-sepulchres,  i.  92 

Pithos,  form  of,  i.  cvii. ;  ii.  457,  487,  489,  493 

Plaid,  re--emblance  to.  i.  397 

Pliny,  on  emplecton,  i.  81 ;  description  of  the 
tomb  of  I'orsena,  ii.  345 

the  younger,  his  description  of  the 

Vadimonian  lake,  i.  143 

Pluto,  the  Etruscan,  i.  3-50  ;  ii.  57 

Poggibonsi,  tombs  near,  ii.  132 

PoGGio  Gajella,  ii.  345;  its  wall  and  fosse, 
349 ;  tiers  of  tombs,  350 ;  wall-])aintings, 
350  ;  circular  chamber,  352 ;  furniture, 
352  ;  labyrinthine  passages,  353  ;  analogy 
to  the  tomb  of  Porsena,  356 

Poggio  dello  Case,  ii.  340 

Grezzano,  ii.  14 

:Michele,  i.  33 

Montdlli,  jiainted  tomb  of,  ii.  327 

Mnntolo,  il.  363 

de'  ilorti,  ii.  373 

di  Moscona,  ii.  225 

Pacciancsi,  or  del  Vcscovo,  ii.  340 

Prisca,  ii.  8 

llenzo,  i)ainted  tomb  at,  ii.  330,  336 ; 

well-tombs,  336,  341,  365,  545 

del  lioccolo,  ii.  48 

di  San  Cornelio,  ii.  390 

di  S.  Paolo,  ii.  350 

■ Scrragio,  ii.  371 

• Stanziale,  ii.  11 

Strozzoni,  i.  498 

Tutoni,  ii.  370 

di  Vetreta,  ii.  199 


Pogna,  Castro,  ii.  113 

Polifemo,  Grotta,  i.  345 

PoUmartium,  i.  166 

Polites.  on  Etruscan  urns,  ii.  169,  303,  448 

PoUedrara,  i.  457 

Polychromy,  Etruscan,  i.   Ixv.  201,  477;  on 

vases,  Ixxxviii.  xciv. ;  on  urns,  ii.  360,  376 
Polycjonai,  MA.suxiiY  at  I'vrgi,  i.  290  ;  Pun- 

toue  del  Castrate,  296 ;  materials  of,  290  ; 


rOIlTRAITS. 

Voltcrra,  ii.  154  ;  Orbetello,  240  ;  Cosa,  240  ; 
Saturnia,  278;  peculiarities  of,  at  Cosa,  248; 
249  ;  topt  by  horizontal,  249;  nnis  into  the 
horizontal,  249  ;  antiquity  of,  254 ;  adopted 
by  the  Romans,  255  ;  doctrine  of  constructive 
necessity  applied  to,  i.  291 ;  ii.  256  ;  jieculi- 
arityof  its  type,256;  used  bymodern  Italians 
in  pavements  and  l)y  the  ancient  Peruvians 
ill  walls,  257;  typi;  projier  to  the  I'elasgi, 
257  ;  found  in  various  ancient  lands,  258 

Polyneices  and  Eteocles  on  urns,  ii.  167  Scv 
Thehan-  Buotheus 

Poly-notus,  i.  381,  383 

Polyhymnia,  head  of,  ii.  406 

Polyphemus,  figure  of,  in  the  Grotta  dell' 
Oreo,  i.  349  ;  represented  with  two  eyes,  on 
an  urn,  ii.  191 

Pomarance,  ii.  195 

Pomegranate  in  the  hands  of  female  stataes, 
ii.  163,  299 

Pomnerium,  in  Etruscan  cities,  i.  Ixvi. ;  ii. 
228 

Pompeii,  an  Etruscan  town,  i.  xxx. 

Pompcy,  an  Etruscan  familv,  i.  335,  455  ;  ii. 
338 

Pons  Sublicius  of  wood,  i.  14,  443 

Ponto  della  I3adia,i.  439;  singularity  of,  440  ; 
its  castle,  439,  467;  aqueduct,  440;  cou- 
struction  analysed,  443 

Ponte  Felice,  i.  121 

Fontanile,  i.  156 

Formello.  i.  14 

d'  Isola,  i.  14 

]Molle,  i.  47 

Salaro,  i.  47 

Sodo  at  Veii,  i   11 ;  at  Vulci,  439 

Ten-aiio,  i.  92,94 

Poi'ULoxiA,  roads  to,  ii.  212;  a  colony  of 
A'olateiTJC,  138,  215 ;  its  port,  213  ;  castle, 
213;  remains,  214,  216;  walls,  218;  not 
polygonal,  219;  tombs,  219;  Etruscan  name, 
220;  coins,  220 

PousEXA,  his  campaign  against  Rome,  i.  20 ; 
all  the  events  pronounced  by  Niebuhr 
legendary,  ii.  293;  his  tomb  at  Clusium,  i. 
454;  ii.  345;  its  dimensions  greatly  exaj;- 
gerated,  346 ;  analogy  to  the  tomb  at 
Albano,  347  ;  i.  454 ;  to  the  Cueumella  of 
Yubi,  and  tomb  of  Alyattes  at  Sardis,  453  ; 
ii.  348;  labyrinth,  348;  analogy  to  the 
Poggio  Gajella,  356 ;  name  on  Etruscan 
urns,  338;  whether  Porsena  or  Porseiina, 
357 

Porta  air  Arco,  Volterra,  ii.  140;  antiquity 
of,  143;  three  heads,  144;  portcullis,  145; 
illustrated  by  an  urn  in  the  Museum  of 
Volterra,  144,  167 

di  Diana,  Volterra,  ii.  147 

del  IJove,  Falleri,  i.  104 

di  Giove,  i.  102 

Portcullis,  antiquity  of,  ii.  145,  250 

Porticoes  to  Euuscau  Imuses,  i.  Ixv.  202;  in 
tombs,  98.  99,  120,  196,  203;  ii.  10,  11; 
ara'ostyle,  i.  202 

Portoferrajo,  ii.  218 

Portraits  of  the  deceased,  painted  in  tombs,  i. 
170,  334,  346 

in  statues,  i.  459 ;  ii.  317 ;  in  bronze, 

i.   460 ;    in  c.in"i)i,  ii.  308 ;   in  terra-cottu 
heads,  i.  428 ;  ii.  85    454,  455,  459  496 


o68 


INDEX. 


POETS. 

Poets  of  Etniria ;  V\  r^n,  i.  290, 29-3 :  Gravisva-, 
430 ;  PiKv,  ii.  69 ;  Luna,  63 ;  Populonia.  138. 
213;  Vada,  201 :  Telamone,  235,  237,  268 

Portus  Hereulis,  ii.  2-52 

Poseidon  and  Aitlira.  ii.  467 :  and  Polybotes.  468 

Poseidonia,  or  Pu:-»tum,  probably  possessed  by 
the  Etruscans,  L  sxx. 

Pot,  cinerarv,  from  Chinsi,  ii.  311 

Potassa,  ii.  222 

Pottery.     Se/-  Vases. 

Puteoii,  an  Etruscan  citv,  i.  xxx. ;  pavement 
of,  li.  118 

Priam,  death  of,  on  an  Etruscan  urn,  IL  36-5 

Prima  Porta,  i.  29,  58 

Prizes  in  public  games,  i.  xciii.  xcvi.;  ii.  331 

Pbocessioxs,  funeral,  on  sepulchral  monu- 
ments, i.  198,  201,  331,  332,  412;  iL  454; 
illustrated  by  history,  332 ;  funeral,  on 
horseback,  ii.  181:  in  cars,  183;  on  foot, 
184,  315:  painted  on  a  vase,  183:  judicial, 
on  Etruscan  urns,  176 :  triumphal,  177 ;  i. 
334 ;  with  capiives,  ii.  432 :  of  priests,  L 
385 ;  ii.  .524 ;  Bacchic,  i.  366 

Prochoos,  forms  of,  i.  cxvL 

ProcopiuB,  his  description  of  Urbiventus,  erro- 
neously applied  to  Orvieto,  iL  41 

Prometheus  and  the  vulture,  on  a  vase,  ii.  473 

Promis,  on  Luna,  ii.  65 

Proserpine,  rape  of,  on  urns,  ii.  164  ;  on  vases, 
472  ;  sitting  statue  of,  299,  375 

Prow,  on  coins,  ii.  190,  2.37.  385 

Psykter,  form  of.  i.  cxiii. :  ii.  83 

Ptolemy,  incorrectness  of,  ii.  197,  271 

Pugilis'ts,  received  by  Kojue  fiom  EtrurLi.  i. 
70 :  often  represented  on  Etruscan  monu- 
ments.   Sc^  Boxes  s. 

Pugillares,  ii.  494 

Puglia,  vases  of,  i.  scv. 

Pullan,  Mr.,  ancient  city,  in  the  Tuscan 
Maremma,  described  b_v,  i.  cxxvii. 

Pumpuni,  tomb  of,  ii.  450 

Pumpus.  Etruscan  form  of  Pompeius,  i.  3-30, 
333,  .335 

Punieum,  i.  294 

Pun  tone  del  Castrato,  ancient  town  and  necro- 
polis, i.  295,  296 ;  must  be  Castrum  Vetus, 
296 

del  Pont€,  tomb  at,  i.  120 

Pupluna.  ii.  220 

I'uteal.  ii.  423 

Pyramids  in  Greece,  i.  200,  284,  387:  in 
Etruria,  275 :  ii.  347 :  in  the  tomb  of  Por- 
scna,  345.  347 :  in  Mexico,  i.  387 

PyitGT,  i.  289  ;  jwlvgonal  walls  of,  290 ;  size 
of  the  U)V,-D.  291 ":  Pelasyic,  291 ;  temple  of 
?:ileith}-ia,  290.  291,  293;  i)ort  of  Care, 
290 :  a  nest  of  pirates,  291 ;  no  towers,  293 

Pvrrhichistes,  L  316,  400 :  ii.  83,  315,  324, 
'332,  342 

P.\-thasroras.  cave  of,  at  Cortona,  ii.  406 ;  its 
^'reat  antiquity,  40S 

Pyxis,  form  of,  i.  cxxvi. 


QrAUBio.v,  of  YeLL,  i.  40:  in  triumphs,  intro- 
duced from  Etruria,  ii.  177;  in  the  Amazon 
sareophagTis,  ii.  96 

Quay,  ancient,  on  bank  of  the  Marta,  i.  434 


EOME. 

Quincussis.  ii.  Ill 

Quindici,  Sigr.,  his  Proserpine,  ii.  375 


K. 


Races,  Etruscan,  L  70,  .365,  369,  374 :  ii.  323, 
331,  333,  342:  institution  of.  i.  232 

of  trifffc,  ii.  106,  315,  366 

on  foot,  ii.  342 

of  women,  ii.  464 

Race-horses,  Etruscan,  renowned,  i.  70,  36-5 

Badicofani,  ii.  291 

Banks,  distinction  of,  at  public  games,  L  73 

Ilapinium,  i.  433 

Basena.  the  Etruscans  so  called  themselves,  i. 
xxsiv..  xxxW. 

Batumena,  i.  40 

Bavenna,  probably  of  Etruscan  origin,  L  xxix. ; 
Etruscan  relics  found  at,  xxxviii. 

Piavines  in  Etruria.  i.  95, 118,  2a5,  498 

Bavizza,  Count  F.,  his  discoveries  in  the 
necropolis  of  Vol.dnii,  ii.  27 

Razor,  crescent-shiiped,  i.  414 :  ii.  337,  341, 
366,  516 

Eegisvilla,  i.  439 

Eegclixi-Galas.^!,  Grotta,  i.  264;  construc- 
lioD.  265  :  antiquitv,  266;  bronzes,  267  :  ii. 
475;  gold  and  jewe'llen-.i.  268,  269:  ii.4S5; 
terra-cottas,  L  267  ;  ii'  483 

Beliefs  on  exterior  of  sepulchres,  i.  196, 199 — 
201 ;  ii.  6 :  on  interior,  i.  2.50.  2.56,  391 

Religion  of  EtrurLi.  i.  liii. 

Bepetti,  on  Mas.«a,  ii.  199 ;  on  landslips,  109  ; 
on  eluvium  No\-um,  294 

Rhatia,  connection  of,  with  Etruria,  i.  xxxvi. ; 
Etruscan  remains  found  in,  xxxvii. 

Rha-tian  origin  of  the  Etruscans,  a  German 
theor}-,  i.  sxxri.,  xxxix. ;  ii.  -548 

Rhyton^  forms  of,  i.  cxxii. ;  ii.  91,  474 

Eignano,  i.  133 

Rings,  worn  by  the  ancients,  i.  476 ;  why 
on  the  fourth  finger,  476  ;  liixury  in,  476  * 

Rio  Maggiore,  i.  92 

Roads,  cut  in  the  rock,  i.  10,  14,  87,  89,  91, 
118,  119,  i05,  209,  214,  2.36,  497:  ii.  3,  13: 
vrith  inscriptions,  i.  63,  119,  205;  flanked 
with  Etrusc-an  tombs,  i.  209;  ii.  13:  ancient, 
or  causeways,  i.  434;  paved,  i.  Lxiii.;  ii.  118 

,  Greek,  ii.  3 

• ,  Roman,  i.  5,  10,  .5-5,  79, 102,  120,  1.58, 

.501 :  ii.  25,  280 

Rocca  Romana,  i.  61 

Rock-hewTi  tomb  near  Castel  d'  Asso,  i.  185 

Rocking-stone,  L  173 

Rods,  twi=ted,  in  funeral  processions,  i.  201, 
2.54,  .331,  333 

Roma  Quadra ta,  i.  66,  83,  113  :  ii.  121 

Roman  house,  resemblance  of  an  Etruscan 
tomb  to,  i.  41,  2-56  ;  ii.  445 

Rome,  size  of,  i.  15:  rebuilt  with  the  ruins 
of  Veii,  16 :  early  walls  of,  66,  Set-  R'.ana 
Quadi-ata;  distant  view  of.  .56.  147;  domina- 
tion of,  in  Etruria,  ii.  204;  road  to,  from 
Ci^•ila  Vecehia,  L  219 

Rome,  Museo  Gregoriano,  ii.  4-52 — 188 ;  Etrus- 
can Museum.  Capitol.  488 — 195;  Kircherian 
^luseum,  495  :  the  Palestrina  Casket,  497 — 
499:  the  Palestrina  Trc^ure,  499—503; 
the  Vukian  frescoes,  -503 — 508 


INDEX. 


5G9 


KOMITOUIO. 

Eomitorio,  i.  127 

lloufiglione,  an  Etrusfim  site,  i.  03,  inns,  G3 

lionzano.  Villa,  Uologna,  ii.  oil 

Kug-jicri  of  Viterbo,  i.  164,  166,  17-5 

lluins,  Eonaan,  on  Etruscan  sites,  i.  166,  433, 
444 ;  ii.  'lo 

EUSELL^,  site  of,  ii.  225  ;  walls,  225,  232 ;  not 
polygonal,  227  ;  gates,  228 ;  loeal  remains, 
229  ;  silitary  se]mlclire,  231 ;  excavations, 
231 ;  bronzes  from,  232 ;  probably  one  of 
the  Twelve,  i.  xx.\i ;  ii.  232  ;  historj',  233 

Ruspi,  on  the  tombs  of  Taniuinii,  i.  324,  325  ; 
on  the  Porta  all  'Arco,  ii.  143 

Ilusticated  niasonrv,  used  l)v  tlie  Etruscans, 
i.  167 


S. 


Sahate,  its  site,  1.  59 

Sabatinus  Lacus,  i.  59 

Sabines,  ornaments  of  their  soldiers,  i.  269 

Sacrifice,  relief  of  a,  ii.  25,  486 ;  painting  of 
a,  i.  367 

Sacrifices,  on  Etruscan  unis,  ii.  178  ;  human, 
i.  422,  478  ;  on  monuments,  i.  449  ;  ii.  178, 
179,  456,  504 

Saleto,  i.  90 

yaUi,  their  rites,  i.  58 ;  dances  of,  323;  ii.  324 ; 
gem  of  the,  86,  324 

Saline,  Le,  i.  431  ;  ii.  136,  195 

Salingoljie,  a  ruined  city,  tomb  at,  ii.  132 

Salpinum,  ii.  2i),  40 

Salt-works,  ancient,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Tiber, 
i.  19,  422 

at  S.  Clomentino,  i.  432 

San  Casciano,  ii.  113 

de  liagni,  ii.  290 

Clemen tino,  i.  431 

Conielio,  ancient  city  at,  ii.  390 ;  pro- 
bably Etruscan,  391  ;  and  the  site  of  tlie 
original  Airetium,  392;  or  of  the  colonj-  of 
Fidens,  393 

Giorgio,  Count  of,  i.  210 

Giovanni  di  Uieda,  i.  218 

Ippolito,  i.  194 

Lorenzo,  Grotte  di,  ii.  19 

Nuovo,  ii.  19 

Vecchio,  ii.  19 


—  Manno,  Tempio  di,  ii.  416,  450 ;  not  a 
temple  but  a  tomb,  451 ;  Etruscan  inscrip- 
tion on  the  vault,  451 

—  Martino  alia  I'ahna,  ii.  112 
-,  site  of  Capena,  i.  131 


Silvcstro,  ancient  city  at,  i.  122;  convent 

of,  on  Soracte,  128 

Sant'  Agostino,  legend  of,  i.  432 

Sant  Andrea  a  ilorgiano,  Etru.scan  inscrip- 
tion cut  in  rock  at,  ii.  112 

Sant  Abondio,  sujjposed  site  of  Fanum  Fcro- 
ni-.r,  i.  130,  133 

Santa  Maria  di  Falleri.     Sec  Falleui 

in  Forcassi,  i.  194 

• Marinella,  bav  of,  i.  294 ;  remains  found 

at,  294  ;  bridges,  294 

Mustiola,  catacombs  of,  ii.  337 

. Severa,  site  of  Pyrgi,  i.  289.    See  Pyroi 

Oreste,  an  Etniscan  site,  i.  J28  ;  pro- 
bably Feronia,  129 

Santo  Stefano,  Grotte  di,  i.  164 


SCVLI'TUKE. 

Sandals,  Etniscan,  i.  Ix.w. 

Sangallo,  his  chef  d'a'uvre,  i.  88 

Sanguinara,  la,  i.  228 

Sanjruinetto,  ii.  415 

hJAKcoi'HAGi,  ]^truscan,hewn  in  the  rock,  i, 
94 ;  ii.  2'^0 ;  curious  one  in  the  British 
lluscum,  i.  170  ;  at  ilusignano,  i.  470,  472  ; 
at  Toscanella,  475 — 480;  that  of  the  Niobids, 
479;  ii.  453  ;  at  Ca^re,  i.  245  ;  of  Musama, 
153,  191 ;  of  Perugia,  ii.  430,  432  ;  in  the 
Gregorian  Museum,  ii.  453,454,456;  like 
temples,  i.  170 ;  in  the  fonn  of  a  circular 
Ionic  temple,  ii.  487;  in  the  form  of  couches, 
i.  477  ;  ii-  305  :  made  to  order,  i.  480 

Sarcophagus,  the  Amazon,  ii.  96 — 102,  115 

Sarcophagus  of  the  Priest,  i.  402 ;  of  the  ilag- 
nate,  403 ;  others,  403,  404 ;  of  the  Warrior, 
413;  of  terra  cotta,  408,  480;  ii.  305 ;_  of 
stone,  413  ;  of  noifro,  415  ;  ii.  453,  456  ; 
of  marble,  i.  245,402,  403;  ii.  96,  101,  316, 
454 

Sardinia,  probably  a  possession  of  the  Etrus- 
cans, i.  xxix.;  not  visible  from  Pojmlonia, 
ii.  217;  Sepolturede'  Giganti,231;  ><uraghe, 
i.  265 

Sardis,  tombs  of  the  kings  at,  i.  388 

Sarsinates,  the,  ii.  434 

S.VHTEANO,  supposed  by  some  the  site  of 
Camars,  ii.  365 ;  collection  of  Cav.  Bargagli, 
364 ;  of  Sig.  Lunghini,  366 ;  of  Sig.  Fanelli, 
367 ;  tombs,  367 

Saturn,  an  Etruscan  god,  i.  Ivii. 

Satuuxia,  roads  to,  ii.  275,  288 ;  modem 
village,  277  :  ancient  site,  277 :  the  fat- 
torix,  277,  281  ;  ancient  polygonal  walls, 
277  ;  gateway,  278  ;  local  remains,  279  ; 
sarcophagi  sunk  in  the  rock,  280 ;  necro- 
polis of,  282—285;  Pelasgic  antiquity  of, 
285;  and  of  the  walls,  286 

Satyr.s,  naked,  in  bronze,  ii.  404 ;  painted  in 
Etniscan  tombs,  i.  367 ;  head  of,  jiainted, 
ii.  459,  495 

Sa\orelli,  Marchese,  proprietor  of  the  amphi- 
theatre at  Sutri,  i.  74 

Saxa  Rubra,  i.  29 

Scansano,  ii.  275,  276 

Scappini,  Sig.  Cometo,  i.  416 

Scarabfei,  described  and  classified,  i.  Ixxvi.  ; 
distinguished  from  the  Egyptian,  Ixxvii. ; 
collections  of,  ii.  85,  297,  298,  367 ;  where 
found,  297,  i.  Ixxvii. 

Scavi,  see  Excavations 

Amoaldi,  the,  ii.  529 

deir  Arsenale,  the.  ii.  533 

IJenacci,  the,  ii.  531 

de  Luca,  the,  ii.  532 

Malvasia-Tortori-Ui,  ii.  534 

Scena,  the  best  ])reserved  in  Italy,  i.  161 

Schellersheira,  Baron,  ii.  123 

Schliemann.  on  the  Homeric  (hpax,  i.  cxix. ; 
on  the  owl-f;iccd  goddess,  ii.  309 ;  on  ten-a- 
cotta  whorls,  515 

Schmitz,  on  the  Fescennine  songs,  i.  116 

Sciiool,  represented  on  an  Etniscan  uni,  ii. 
179 

Scipio  .Vfri.anus,  the  fii-st  who  sliaved  daily, 
i.  381 

Scrofano.  i.  57,  58 

Sculiiture,  Etruscan,  i.lxxi.— Ixxvi. :  -oloured, 
246,  402,  477  ;  ii.  314 


oTO 


INDEX. 


SCYLLA. 

Scylla.  the  Etruscan,  ii.  92, 172,  304,  448 ;  the 

lircek,  4ol) 
Sea-tijrht  on  a  vasp,  ii.  490 
Sea-liorses,  on  Etruscan  monuments,  i.  168, 

248,  3G2.  370:  ii.  92,  174,  304,  520,  .521 
Scbaste  in  Cilicia,  ii.  118 
Sec,  Etruscan  for  "  dauij;hter,"  i.  xlvii. 
Seianus,  ii.  22,  25 
Sella  Curulis,  i.  240 
Sclva  la  Ilocca,  i.  221,  233 

di  Vctk'ta,  ii.  207 

Scmeria,  I'adre,  i.  183 

Seitltuke,  modes  of,  i.  26;  Etruscan — not 

within  city- walls,  92  ;  exceptions,  428  ;  ii. 

401 

-,  Eoman,  i.  92,  428 


-,  Greek,  i.  92,  428 


Serchio,  the,  ii.  70 

Sergardi,  Grotta,  ii.  409 

Sermoneta,  Duchess  of, — licr  e.xcavations,  i. 
221,  223,  293,  294,  295 

Seki'EXTS,  on  Etruscan  monuments,  i.  169, 
263,  332 ;  their  sacred  character  among 
other  ancient  nations,  169, 170;  round  heads 
of  Euries  and  deities,  169,  331,  350,  353, 
398;  ii.  171;  round  arms  of  deities  or 
demons,  i.  332,  350,  353,  470 ;  ii.  51,  52 ; 
round  legs  of  demons,  i.  348,  412 ;  round 
waists,  ii.  56,  378  ;  ])ainted  on  walls  to  pre- 
vent pollution,  i.  170;  brandished  by  priests, 
332,  422  ;  bestridden  In-  lioys,  345 ;  borne  by 
demons,  398;  represent  Genii,  170,  287"; 
round  I'luto's  spear,  ii.  58;  round  Charun's 
mallet,  i.  385 ;  bearded,  i.  354 ;  ii.  51 ; 
symbols  of  volcanic  powers,  173 ;  of  bronze, 
155 ;  of  tcrra-cotta,  crested,  on  the  walls  of 
a  tomb.  443 

Serpent-charmers,  i.  374 

Servius  TuUius,  am/cr  of,  i.  11  ;  Avails  of,  27*^ ; 
represented  in  Etruscan  wall-paintings,  i. 
449 ;  ii.  506 

Sestino,  ii.  88 

Sethlans,  Etruscan  name  of  Vulcan,  i.  Ivii. ;  ii. 
482 

Sctte  Vene,  i.  62 

Seven,  -a  sacred  number  with  the  Etruscans, 
ii.  312 

the,  before  Tliebes,  ii.  167,  448 

Sewerage  of  Etruscan  cities,  i.  Ixii. 

Seweus,  cut  in  cliffs,  i.  64,  84,  89,  103,  119, 
152,  166,  209,  236,  482,  492  ;  formed  in 
citv  walls,  ii.  119,  14G;  in  Cvclopean  cities, 
llO,  251 

Sox,  distinguished  bv  colour,  in  ]-;truscan 
painted  tom])s,  i.  247,  312,  319 ;  ii.  53,  334 

Sexes,  separation  of  the,  i.  379 

Shafts,  means  of  entrance  to  tombs,  i.  93,  162, 
164,  183,  242,  328,  392;  ii.  9,  335  ;  in  the 
floor  of  tombs,  i.  223,  248 

Sharpe,  on  the  origin  of  the  Etniscan  alpha- 
bet, i.  xlix. 

Slicpherds,  Koman,  i.  18,  229 ;  make  good 
guides.  111 

Shield,  Etruscan, — singular  one  f<nind  at 
Eoinarzo,  i.  171;  ii.  476;  form  of  Etruscan, 
i.  200  ;  ii.  475 ;  Ijorrowed  by  the  Komans, 
i.  Ixi.  200;  decoration  i)f  sepulchral  monu- 
ments, 200,  284  ;  eml)lazoned,  200,  285  ;  in 
tombs,  245,  248,  250,  253,  2-56,  267,  338, 
455;  in  tlie  pediment  of  a  tomb,  ii.  442  ;  as 


SOVANA. 

in  Phrygia,  442  ;  i.  200,  285  ;  at  a  banquet, 
i.  247 ;  in  Greek  tombs,  284 ;  on  temples, 
285  ;  on  city  walls,  200,  285  ;  an  anathema, 
284  ;  of  bronze,  414  ;  ii.  475,  476 

Sicilv,  tombs  of,  i.  26;  pits  of,  92,  278  ;  vases 
of,"  462,  471 

Siculi,  the,  i.  sxxiv. 

Siege  of  a  citv  represented  on  Etruscan  imis, 
ii.  167,  303' 

Siena,  of  Koman  antiquity,  ii.  129  ;  collections 
of  urns,  130;  discovery  (if  Gaulish  jewellery 
at  Le  Casaccie,  130 ;  tombs  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood, 131 — 135  ;  alpliabetital  tomb,  133 

Silenus,  vase  of,  in  the  Museo  Grcgoriano,  ii. 
461 

Silex,  quan-ies  of,  i.  162,  493  ;  application  of 
the  term,  i  493  ;  ii.  67 

Sili,  corn-pits,  i.  92 

Riliccrnium,  i.  322 

Silvanus,  an  Etruscan  god,  i.  Iviii. ;  <;tovc  of, 
228,  230,  273 

Silver  vessels,  in  tombs,  i.  268,  269  ;  ii.  486  ; 
with  inscriptions,  i.  269 ;  now  in  Gregorian 
Museum,  ii.  486,  496  ;  found  at  Palestrina, 
501,  .503 

Simpulum,  i.  360;  ii.  325 

Sirens,  i.  469;  ii.  93;  painted  in  a  tomb,  334; 
in  bronze,  404 

Sisenna,  ii.  369 

Sistrum,  found  at  Orbetello,  ii.  242 

Sisyphus  in  a  fresco,  ii.  504 

Situla,  the  fonn  of,  i.  cxvi. ;  of  Florence,  ii. 
104;  of  the  Capitol,  490;  of  La  Certosa, 
523 

Skeletons,  crumbling,  i.  277,  388  ;  from  Etrus- 
can tombs,  ii.  523 

Skulls,  Etruscan  and  Umbrian,  ii.  523,  543 

Skyphos,  foiTii  of,  i.  cxviii. 

Slaves,  in  Etruria,  i.  lii. ;  insiuTCction  of, 
ii.  21,  22,  32;  burial  of,  i.  41,  94;  repre- 
sented in  tombs,  ii.  53,  58  ;  in  funeral  j)ro- 
cessious,  182,  524 

Slings,  i.  312 

Smalt  in  Etruscau  tombs,  i.  223,  276 

Solar  disk,  in  the  pediment  of  a  tomb,  ii.  442 

Solon,  tomb  of,  i.  248 

Solonium,  opinions  on,  ii.  20,  95,  270 

Sommavilla,  vases  of,  i.  135 

Sohacte,  like  Gibraltar,  i.  127;  views  of  it, 
138,  147 ;  view  from  it,  127 ;  geological 
structure,  128,  130;  (juarried  l)y  the  Ro- 
mans, 129;  temple  of  Apollo  on,  128,  129; 
wolves,  134  ;  cave  with  foul  vapours,  135 

Sorano,  an  Etruscan  site,  i.  499  ;  inn,  500 ; 
remains,  501 ;  excavations,  501 ;  ii.  107 

Soriano,  i.  121,  152 

SouL.s,  symbolised  by  figures  on  horseback, 
i.  36,  324,  344,  412  ;  ii.  181,  455 ;  or  by 
warriors,  308;  passage  of,  36,  181,466;  in 
charge  of  demons,  331,  342,  400  ;  in  cars, 
342,  472  ;  entering  the  gate  of  liell,  306 ;  fed 
by  the  ancients,  i.  xcvi. ;  drawn  by  winged 
horses,  ii.  521 

Sovana,  ii.  1 ;  necropolis  of,  discovered  by 
Jlr.  Ainsley,  2 ;  great  variety  of  tombs,  3, 
12  ;  site  oftlie  city,  3  ;  decay,  4  ;  La  Eon- 
tana,  6 ;  Poggio  Prisca,  8  ;  Grotta  Pola,  9  ; 
Sopraripa,  9;  Poggio  Stanziale,  11;  roads 
to,  3  ;  excavations,  13,  14;  mouldings,  15  ; 
Etruscan  inscriptions,  16,  17 


INDEX. 


571 


sow    OF    CUOMMYOX. 

Sow  of  Croininyon,  i.  397 

Specchio.     >SV/"  MiR)ioiis 

iSpeculii.     AVv  ^[iHKOKS 

Spedulctto,  Lo,  ii.  2? 

SperaiKlio,  ii.  481 

Spe/ia,  gulf,  ii.  6',i 

Sphinx,  Ktruscan,  i.  37;  painted  on  tiles, 
2.37  ;  in  stone,  ii.  352  ;  with  a  tutulus,  42G, 
301 ;  on  the  exterior  of  a  tomb,  i.  204,  453  ; 
■winged,  ii.  300 

Sphyrelaton,  or  lianimered  work  in  metal,  i. 
4(i0;  ii.  362 

Spina,  a  Pelasgic,  and  ])robably  an  Etruscan 
city,  i.  xxix. 

Spinita,  ii.  367 

Spindles  of  bronze,  ii.  516 

Spits,  i.  254 ;  ii.  477,  525 

Spoon  of  ivory,  i.  461 

Sjjurina,  in  an  Etruscan  inscription,  ii.  388, 
486 

Stackelbcrg,  Baron,  i.  368 

Stalactites,  on  the  Ponte  della  Badia,  i.  443 

Stamnos,  fonu  of,  i.  cix.  ex. 

Statoni.v,  placed  at  Castro,  i.  492 ;  perhaps 
Pitigliano,  497  :  site  not  detennined,  493  ; 
quan-ies,  493  ;  lake  of,  495  ;  ii.  19 

Statua,  i.  221 

Statues,  Ktruscan,  in  terra-cotta,i.  Ixxiii. ;  ii. 
453,  490;  in  stone,  i.  Ixxv. ;  ii.  299;  of 
females,  i.  459  ;  ii.  112,  188,  458;  sitting, 
299,  375,  4;i9  ;  of  Furies,  439 ;  of  Jupiter  in 
wood,  i.  Ixxv.;  ii.  216;  in  bronze,  i.  Ixxiii.; 
ii.  460;  of  a  boy,  supjjosed  to  be  Tages, 
479  ;  Koman,  of  Meleager,  i.  294 ;  Umbriau, 
of  a  warrior  from  Todi.  ii.  480;  injured  by 
kissing,  144  ;  painted,  ii.  454,  458 

Stelit,  or  tomb-stones  at  Orvieto,  ii.  42  ;  at  La 
Ccrtosa,  15ologna,  ii.  519 — 522,  529;  535, 
542 ;  resemblance  of,  to  those  found  at 
Mycenae,  i.  Ixix. 

Steub,  on  tlic  relation  of  Ehfctia  to  Etruria, 
i.  xlvii. 

Stunigliano,  i.  138 

Stools,  carved  in  the  rock,  i.  41,  241,  253 

Storta,  La,  i.  2,  17 

Stracciacappa,  lake  of,  i.  59 

Strigil,  Etruscan,  i.  408 

Strozzi,  Marchese,  collection  of,  i.  501 ;  ii. 
106 

Strupearia,  a  Faliscan  festival,  i.  107 

Stucco  in  tombs,  i.  171,  244,  247 

Styria.  relics  found  in,  i.  xxxvii. 

Suana.     Sec  Sovana 

Sua.stika,  i.  Ixxxi.x.  cxiii.;  ii.  537 

Subulo,  Etruscan  for  ttbicoi,  i.  307,  311,  313, 
316,  319 

Succinium,  an  engulfed  town,  i.  146 

Suceosa,  ii.  243,  253 

Sudertum,  i.  490,  501 

Summanus,  an  Etruscan  deity  who  hurled 
thunder-bolts,  i.  Ivi. 

Superstition,  ancient  resembles  modern,  i.  24 

Surrentum,    probably  of  Etruscan  origin,  i. 

XXX. 

Surriiia,  i.  121 ;  Vetus,  at  Yiterbo,  152 

Sutliiiia,  inscribed  on  bronzes,  ii.  27,  88,  104 

SiTKi,  i.  64  ;    walls,  65  ;    gates,  66  ;    historj"-, 

67  ;  tincient  })roverb,  64,  68  ;  key  of  Etruria, 

64  ;  Etruscan  name,  67  ;  ally  of  ]{onie,  67  ; 

besieged  by  t lie  Etruscans,  67,  423;  Porta 


TAUdLIXII. 

Euria,  68  ;  battle  of,  68  ;  rock-hewn  church 

and  catacombs,  (i9 ;  amphitheatre,  70 — 74; 

toiubs  in  the  cliffs,  74 — 77  ;  house  of  Pilate, 

78;  excavations,  78 
Swords,  Et)us<'an,  i.  201;  curved  like  scimitars, 

ii.442;  in  the  hand  of  a  female  figure,  on  a 

sepulchral  urn,  4  17 
Sylla,  his  body  burnt,  i.  27 
Symposium,  Etruscan,  i.  373,   396,  400;   ii. 

"325 
Syracuse,  sepubhrcs  of,  i.  26 ;  ii.  280 ;  tomb 

of  Archimedes,  151,  296;  amphitheatre  of, 

i.   72;   ancient   roads,   ii.    118;   emplccton 

masoiu'v  at,  i.  81 


T.iitLETS,  i.  470;  in  the  hands  of  statues,  ii. 

163;  in  the  Capitcd  Museum,  494 
Tablinum,  in  an  Etruscan  tomb,  ii.  445 
T.ibula  Cibellaria,  a  forgery,  i.  152 
Taccini  collection,  the,  ii.  1376 — 378 
Tacco,  Ghino  di,  ii.  291 
Tages,  legend  of,  i.  lix.  418;  supposed  statue 

of,  ii.  479 
Talajots  of  the  Balearies,  i.  265  ;  ii.  154 
Talaria,  i.  342,  348,  412 
Tanaquil,  Etruscan  form  of,  i.  327;   ii.  316, 

487;  her  powers,  i.  Ixiv.  478;  on  a  wall- 
painting,  449 
Tanclla  di  Pitagora  near  Cortona,  ii.  406 
Taormina,  theatre  of,  i.  161  ;  its  .scciia,  161 
Tarchon,  legend  of,  i.  417,  418 
Tarentum,  burial  within  walls  of,  i.  428 
Takuuinii,  its  necropolis,  i.  302,  389 

Grotta  del  iiarone,  i.  368 

dclle  liighe,  i.  373 

liruschi,  i.  412 

de'  Cacciatori,  i.  311 

del  Cardinale,  i.  339 

del  Citaredo,  i.  377 

Francesca,  i.  371 

delle  Iscrizioni.  i.  364 

del  Letto  Funebre,  i.  315 

del  Mare,  i.  370 

della  Mercareccia,  or  degli  Stuochi,  i. 

391 

del  Moribondo,  i.  362 

del  i\Iorto,  i.  325 

dell'  Oreo,  i.  345 

della  Pulcella,  i.  313 

del  Puleinella,  i.  376 

de'  Pompej,  i.  328 

Querciola,  i.  306 

della  Scrofa  Xera,  i.  396 

degli  Scudi,  i.  336 

del  Tifone,  i.  327 

dd  Triclinio,  i.  318 

de'  Vasi  Dipinti,  i.  358 

del  Vecchio,  i.  356 

TAiianxii,  list  of  the   painted  tombs   now 

open,  i.  305 ;  comj)arative  antiquity  of  these 

tombs,  380  ;  fair  specimens  of  Etruscan  art, 

382;  lost  tombs,  384,  ;J98;  painted  tombs, 

reelosed,  399;  tumuli,  386;  Mausoleum,  386; 

Byres  on  the  tombs  of,  340,  398 :  excava- 
tions, 390,  427;  jjotterv,  414;  remains  on 

the   site,   424—428 ;   Arx,  425 ;   Ara    della 

Eegina,  426  ;  buried  arch,  426  ;  walls,  427  ; 


572 


INDEX. 


TARQUIXIVS   I'RISCrS. 

origin  of  the  citv,  417;  Etruscan  miinc, 
418,  424:  one  of' the  Twelve,  xxsi.  419; 
ecclesiastical  metropolis,  383.  419:  history 
of.  420—424  :  intercourse  with  Greece,  383  ; 
priests  of,  anned  with  torches  and  seqients, 
332,  422:  city  destroyed,  424 ;  port  of,  435 

St'C  CORXETO. 

Tarquinius  Priseiis,  his  conquest  of  Etruria 
learendary,  i.  421 :  introduces  the  Etruscan 
insignia  into  Kome.  421 :  and  the  Etruscan 
games,  70  :  builds  the  Circus  Maximus,  70 

Superbus,  expelled  from   Home, 

i.  422 ;  took  refuge  at  C:ere,  i.  232,  243 

Tarquins,  tomb  of  the,  i.  242  ;  Etrusian  forms 
of  the  name,  242,  244  :  ii.  86 

Tarquitia,  family  of,  i.  7,  242 

■Tarraco,  an  Etruscan  settlement,  i.  Lsi. 

TartaglLi,  tomb  of,  i.  384 

■Tai-tar-Ukc  physiognomy  in  early  Etruscan 
monuments,  i.  xlv.  279,  281 

Taylor,  Rev.  Isaac,  on  the  Etruscan  language, 
i.  xlvii.,  1..  Ixx.  :  ii.  317 

Telamox.  battle  of.  ii.  222,  237  ;  coins,  237  ; 
was  the  port  of  the  newlj-found  city  near 
Magliauo,  268 

"Telamonaccio,  ii.  236 

Telamone.  ii.  2.3o :  its  port,  235,  237 ;  anti- 
quit  v,  23G.     Sec  Telamox. 

Teleplius,  ii.  92,  168,  424, 448 

Temple,  remains  of,  between  Sarteano  and 
Chianciano,  ii.  368 

Temple-like  sarcophagi,  i.  170,  246;  ii.  494 

Temples.  Etruscan,  i.  Lxiv.  Ixv. :  constructed 
chiefly  of  wood,  Ixr. ;  on  heights,  ii.  33  ; 
and  on  Arces,  33 ;  relation  to  tombs,  451 

• Greek,  ii.  34 

Termessus  in  Pamphylia,  ii.  118 

Terai,  ii.  119 

Terra-cotta,  Etruscan  Avorks  iu,  i.  Ixxii. :  ii. 
48 ;  in  the  Museum  at  Florence,  105 ;  at 
Volterra,  l<-7;  at  Chiusi,  305,  310;  at 
.irezzo,  389 :  at  Perugia.  432  :  in  the 
Museo  Grcgoriano,  453.  456,  458:  in  the 
Capitol,  489,  490,  495 ;  in  Museo  Kircheri- 
ano,  496 

Terra  di  Cesi,  ii.  119 

Ten-amare,  ii.  540 

TeiTa  Jlozza,  wallb  at,  ii.  398 

Terrosi,  Cav.,  his  collection,  ii.  359 

Tessenano,  i.  4S9 

Teucheira,  tombs  at,  i.  93 

Teutones,  ii.  70 

Thalna,  the  Etruscan  Juno,  i.  Iv. :  represented 
on  miiTors,  ii.  483 

Thamyris  contending  with  thi-  Pluses,  ii.  467 

Theatres,  antiquitv  of,  in  Italv,  i.  71  :  of 
Fallen,  106;  ofFereuto,  159— 161 ;  of  Fie- 
sole,  ii.  123 

Theban  Brothers,  on  wall  paintings,  i.  449 ; 
on  Etruscan  urns,  ii.  92,  106,  167,  304,  364, 
378 :  most  common  on  those  of  terra-cotta, 
305  ;  on  ii  sarcophagus,  456 

Thebes,  the  Seven  before,  on  Etruscan  urns, 
ii.  92,  167,  448 

Theodoric  sanctioned  gi-ave-si)oiling,  i.  xcvii. 
390 

Thcpri,  Etruscan  name  of  the  Tiber,  ii.  444 

Thera.  isle  of,  i.  203;  ii.  119:  tombs,  280 

Therini  family,  tomb  of  the,  ii.  340 

Therm;c.     See  Baths 


Thcsan,  the  Etruscan  Aurora,  i.  Ivii.;  repre- 
sented on  mirrors,  ii.  482 
Theseus,  on  Etruscan  monuments,  i.  353,  403, 
405;  on  vases,  ii.  113,  464,  465,  466,  467, 
I       469, 471 

j    Thetis,  seated  on  a  sea-horse,  on  an  uni,  ii. 
447 ;  called  Thethis  on  a  mirror,  482 
Tholi  in  Etruria  and  Greece,  ii.  122, 154, 155  ; 

in  America.  155 
Thrasymcne,  lake  of,  ii.  414;  battle  of,  414, 
415  :  bunit  up,  416 
I    Thunder-bolts,  eleven  sorts  of,  i.  Ivi. 

I    calendar,  i.  xliii. 

'    irods,  i.  Ivi. 

Thymiatcrion,  i.  268,  275;  ii.  488,  489 
Tiber,  vale  of  the,  i.  137,  1-1'5,  165  ;  Eti-uscan 
name  of,  ii.  444 
I    Tibicen,  i.  307,  333 
!    Tibicina,  i.  371,  373 

!    Tiles,  with  paintings,  i.  257,  259-2&4 ;  with 
j        sepulchral  inscriptions,  ii.  86,  306 

Tin,  fouud  iu  EtrurLi,  i.  Ixxiii. 
j    Tinia,  the  Etruscan  Zeus,  i.  liv.;  represented 
;       on  mirrors,  ii.  482,  483;  the  name  of  a  family, 
I       and  of  a  river,  444 
Tintinnabulum,  ii.  516,  524,  532,  533 
Tiresias,  i.  352;  ii.  482 
'    Tiryns,  gallery  of,  i.  265,  386 ;  Avails,  described 
I        by  Pausanias.  ii.  226 
I    Tisiphone.  i.  332,  343  :  ii.  73 
!    Todi,  ii.  62,  119;  bilingual  ingeription  from, 
!        456  ;  statue  from,  480 
Toga,  origin  of  the,  i.  xliv.;  received  by  the 
Komans  from  the  Etruscans,  sliv. ;  latterly 
used  onlv  lis  a  shroud,  ii.  106,  IS7 ;  pieetczta, 
54,  301  ■,'pict(i,  507 
Tolfa,  excavations  at,  i.  300 
I    Toniba  Golini,  ii.  52,  SO 
Tombara,  ii.  268 
Tombolo,  ii.  252 

Tombs,  Etruscan,  subteiTanean,  i.  Ixiii. 
Ixviii. ;  ritied  iu  pa.st  ages,  xcvii.  182,  390  ; 
analogv  to  houses,  Ixix.  41,  170,  180,  208, 
217,  238,  386:  u.  11,  42,  350,  445,  449;  to 
i  huts,  i.  Ixx.  278:  to  temples,  196,  202,  241, 
I  339  ;  ii.  2,  10,  451 ;  to  funeral  pyres,  i.  278; 
like  cromlechs  at  Santa  ilarineUa,  295 ;  at 
Satuniia,  li.  283 :  at  Cortona,  409 ;  like 
guardhouses,  i.  295  ;  elliptical,  i.  182,  249  ; 
conical,  cut  in  rock.  92,  119;  circular,  171, 
455  ;  ii.  151,  152,  153.  157,  352 :  vaulted 
with  a  perfect  arch.  338,  339,  400,  450; 
domed,  ii.  154  ;  hollowed  in  the  earth,  518; 
formed  of  slabs,  513,  518;  with  diimneys,  i. 
93;  with  trench  and  nimpart.  i.  217,  455: 
withincity  walls,  428;  ii.  242,  400:  draining 
of,  i.  77,  224  ;  ii.  152 ;  incongruity  between 
exterior  and  interior,  i.  181,  202;  are 
bauqueting-halls  of  the  dead,  208,  475; 
ancient  luxurv  in,  383  ;  sacredness  of,  383 ; 
profanation  of,  77.89,  120,  339,  391,  498; 
ii.  31 ;  described  by  .Vriosto.  i.  335 

,  Etru.sean.  imitation  of.  at  Toscanella, 

i.  475  ;  in  tlie  Museum  at  Florence,  ii.  80  ; 
in  the  Greiroriau  Museum,  488 
Tombs,  Rom.in,  i.  Ixviii.  104, 105,  383, 446, 455 

,  Greek,  i.  Ixviii.,  265,  383  ;  of  Greek 

priests,  269 
Torch,   on   funeral  monuments,   ii.   182 ;   of 
wood,  490 


INDEX. 


57» 


TOUEITIC    ART. 

Toreutic  art  in  Etniria,  i.  Ixxiii. ;  earliest  mode 

of,  460 
Torquatus,  scene  of  liis  combat  with  the  Gaul, 

i.  47 
Torques,  i.  269,  476;  on  statues,  ii.  SOo;  of  gold, 

i.  xxxvii. 
Torre  di  Baratti,  ii.  '2V.] 

(lella  Bella  Marsilia,  ii.  235 

di  C'liiaruccia,  i.  296 

(Jiuliana,  i.  138 

di  ilacearese,  i.  220 

Nuova,  site  of  Aljrx,  i.  299 

di  San  ^lanno,  ii.  416 

San  Yincen/o,  ii.  202 

della  Tagliata,  ii.  253 

di  Troja,  ii.  222 

ToscAXELL.\,  inn,  i.  474 ;  the  Cainpanari  and 

their  collection,  474 — 481  ;  tomb  of  the  Cal- 

carello,  478  ;  antiquity  of  the  site,  481  ;  S. 

Pietro,  482  ;  local  remains,  482  ;  necropolis, 

483;  GrottaEegina,  483;  excavations,  484 — 

487  ;  pottery,  487 
Towers,  of  Falleri,  i.  101—104;  of  Cosa,  ii. 

248;  double,  i.  482;  round,  represented  on 

an  uni,  ii.  448;  look-out,  on  headlands,  216, 

246 ;   in   tumuli,   i.    452 ;  as  prescribed  by 

Vitruvius,  102 ;  ii.  248 
Towns,  Etruscan,  nameless,  i.  166  ;    ii.  208, 

243,  289.     AVv"  Cities 

cnj^ulfed  by  lakes,  i.  59,  146 

Tragedies,  Etruscan,  i.  Ix. 

Trajanus  Tortus,  ii.  222 

Travertine,  used  in  polygonal  masonry,  ii.  154, 

259 ;    of  Satuniia,  286  ;   in  the  Cyclopean 

walls  of  lluselUe,  226  ;    in  the    horizontal 

masonry  of  Chiusi,  295,  and  Perugia,  417 
Treasure,  traditions  of  hidden,  i.  56,  78 
Treasuries  of  Greece,  i.  265,  268,  386  ;  ii.  122, 

154 
Treaty  between  Etruria  and  Carthage,  i.  Ixi. 
Trees,  conventional  mode  of  representing,  ii. 

323 
Treia,  glen  of,  i.  90 ;  junction  with  tlic  Tiber, 

138 
Trovignano,  i.  59 
Triclinia,  in  Etruscan  tombs,  i.  238,  248 ;  ii. 

340,  350 
Trigx",  race  of,  ii.  315,  323,  366  _ 
Tripods  of  bronze,  i.  267  ;  ii.  475,  480 
Triptolemos,  in  winged  car,  ii.  464,  473,  488 
Triturrita,  Villa,  ii.  69 
Triumphs,  Etruscan,  ii.  177 
—  Roman,  derived  from  Etruria,  ii.  177; 

description   of,  by  Ap])ian,   agreeing   with 

scenes  on  Etruscan  imis,  177 
Troilus,  ii.  93,  114,  303,  422,  424.  448,  470 
Trossulum,  taken  by  Roman  knights,  ii.  31 ; 

not  identical  with  Troilium,  31 
Troy,  Seaman  gates  of,  i.  12:  war  of,  shewn  on 

Etruscan  monuments,  480;  ii.  93, 168,  303  ; 

on  vases,  ii.  81,  114 
Trumpet,  Etruscan,  or  lituus,  i.  333,  337  ;  ii. 

331,412,  413,  476;  invention  of,  i.  xxxv. 

xliv.  ;  ii.  52 
Tuchulcha,  an  Etruscan  demon,  i.  353 
TuUianum,  ii.  122 
Tumuli,  at   Veii,  i.   32 :  Monteroni,  223  ;  at 

Ca;re,  228,  239,  266,  274,  275,  277  ;  at  Tar- 

quinii,  356,  386,  391  :  at  Vulci,  452,  455; 

Volterra,  ii.  153  ;  between  Cecina  and  15ol- 


gheri,  201;  at  Populonia,  219;  Husella;, 
232;  at  the  city  discovered  near  Ma-rliano, 
266;  Satuniia,  2S3 ;  of  Poggio  Gajella,  at 
Chiusi,  349,  356;  at  Cortona,  409';  in  the 
cemeteries  of  ihe  aborigines  of  Italy,  i.  388; 
ii.  286 ;  in  Lydia,  i.  278,  388,  4^3,  454  ; 
not  imitations  of  tents.  Ixx. 

Tunnels,  Etruscan,  i.  Ixiii.,  11 

Tunny-tishery,  at  Populonia,  ii.  216  ;  at  Cosa, 
246 

Turan,  the  Etruscan  Venus,  i.  Ivii. ;  repre- 
sented on  miiTors,  154  ;  ii.  429,  430,  483 

Turchina,  i.  424 

Turianus,  an  Etruscan  artist,  i.  220 

Tunns,  or  Thunus,  the  Etruscan  Mercury,  i. 
Ivii.  ;  represented  on  mirrors,  ii.  482,  483 

Tuscan  order  of  architecture,  i.  Ixv.;  illustrated 
by  monuments,  202,  241,  277 

Tuscania,  i.  473.    -Sec  Toscaxei.la 

Tuscanica  signa,  i.  Ixxiv. ;  ii.  89 

Tutni,  or  Tutna,  an  Etruscan  name,  ii.  370 

Tutulus,  worn  by  priest?,  i.  366 ;  ii.  434  ;  by 
men,  51.  57;  worn  bv  women,  i.  316,  357, 
358,366,  368,  400;  ii.89,  300,  495,  515;  by 
a  dwarf,  ii.  332  ;  by  a  deitj-,  427  ;  i.  263 

Twelve  Cities  of  the  Etruscan  Confedera- 
tion, i.  xxxi. ;  Veii,  i.  19,  28;  Falerii,  108, 
112;  CaTe,  231;  Tarquinii,  418.419;  V(d- 
sinii,  ii.  20;  Volaterra?,  138;  Kuselhe,  232; 
Vetulonia,  270 ;  Clusium,  291  ;  Arretium, 
380  :  Cortona,  400 ;  Perusia,  434 

Twelve  Tables,  the,  i.  27,  92 

Tvphon,  the  Etruscan,  ii.  12 ;  on  Etruscan 
'monuments,  i.  168,  253,  328,  329;  ii.  12. 173 

• .  tomb  of  the,  i.  327.    'SVr  TAUCirixii 

Tyrol,  Etruscan  relics  in  the,  i.  xxxvii. 

Tyrrhena  sit;illa,  i.  Ixxiv. 

Tyn-heni,  Etruscans  so  called  by  the  Greeks, 
i.xxxv;  confounded  with  the  Pelasgi,xxxiv. 

Tyrrhenus,  legend  of,  i.  xxxv.  417 


Ulysses  blinding  Polyphemus,  in  a  wall- 
painting,  i.  349;  on  a  vase,  ii.  491  ;  escap- 
ing from  Polyjjhcmus,  on  an  ivory  cuj),  ii. 
362 ;  with  the  Sirens,  on  Etruscan  unis, 
ii.  85,  93,  170;  with  Scvlla,  304,  422, 
424,  448;  with  Circe,  93,  170,  360;  slaying 
the  suitors,  170,  360;  Etruscan  legend  of, 
399  ;  in  Hades,  482 

ITmbrellas,  on  Etruscan  monuments,  i.  472  ; 
ii.  520  ;  antiquity  of,  330 ;  in  a  tomb  at 
Chiusi,  330 

Umbri,  the  earliest  inhaliitants  of  Etruria,  i. 
xxxiv.  ;  ii.  285;  built  Camars  or  Clusium, 
292;  Cortona,  399  ;  PiMusia,  434 

Umbria,  on  an  Etruscan  urn.  ii.  328 

Umbrian  inscription  on  a  statue,  ii.  480; 
bilingual  with  Latin,  456 

Umbro,  the,  ii.  235 

Umrana,  family  of,  ii.  328 

Unguent  pots,  i.  458  ;  ii.  79 

Unhealthiness  of  the  Etruscan  coast,  i.  431 ; 
ii.  204,  223,  236,  ^43 

Urinates,  Etruscan  family  name,  i.  170,  186 

Uuxs,  cinerary,  with  head-handles,  i.  40;  ii. 
454 ;  in  the'  fonn  of  statues,  ii.  299,  314, 
353,  375  ;  in  the  form  of  Canopi,  308  ;  fan- 


574 


INDEX. 


tastic  with  figures  of  women  and  drasons. 
310,  311  ;  in  the  form  of  a  haiuiueting 
eourh,  30-5  ;  like  houses,  348  ;  like  tenii)les, 
i.  484;  ii.  305,  3()6,  440,  48(5;  like  huts,  i. 
Ixix.,  27 ;  ii-  457 ;  numerous  in  one  tomb, 
152,  153 ;  i).iinted  and  gilt,  153,  163,  305, 
360,  364,  376,  446,  447;  of  terra-eotta,  i. 
480;  ii.  106,  187,  305,  459;  of  _  bronze, 
522;  crownied  with  ebaplets,  i.  395;  value 
of,  as  reeords,  ii.  161 ;  bearing  Greek  mvths, 
92,  164,  455;  at  Florcnee,  89— 95 ;  atVol- 
terra,  162—185:  at  Russelhe,  224;  atChiusi, 
301—306  :  at  Cetona,  360  ;  at  Sartcano,  364; 
at  Cittil  la  I'ieve,  376—378;  at  Are/./o,  388; 
at  Perugia,  422—424.  438—440,  446—448  ; 
at  Eome,  454,  455  ;  at  Bologna,  522 

Usil,  Etruscan  name  of  I'hcebus,  i.  Ivii. ;  ii. 
482 

Ustrinic,  i.  456  ;  different  from  husta,  456 


V. 


Yaccaueccia,  i.  32 

Vaccina,  the,  i.  228 

Vada  Yolaterrana,  ii.  195,  201 

Yadimonian  Lake,  battles  of,  i.  142,  144,  423  ; 
Pliny's  description  of  its  floating  island.s,  143 

Yado  di  Trosso,  ii.  31 

Yalea,  la,  i.  6 

Yalentano,  i.  493 ;  supposed  by  Canina  to  be 
Fanum  Yoltummc,  494 

Yalerias  Antias ,  Ms  legend  of  the  Thrasvmene, 
ii.  416 

Yalerj.  Sig.,  i.  481 

Yandalism,  in  Italy,  i.  54,  450 

Yanth,  an  Etruscan  demon,  ii.  317,  504 

Yarro,  his  description  of  the  tomb  of  Lars 
Porsena,  ii.  346 

Yasc,  the  Anubis,  ii.  318 ;  the  Frani^ois,  ii.  113 
—115 

Yases  of  Etruria,  earliest  are  not  painted,  i. 
Ixxxvii.,  cv. ;  of  Yeii,  39 ;  of  C;ere,  28_2  ; 
of  Clusium,  crowned  with  cocks,  ii.  76,  78, 
312;  of  Yillanova,  514;  how  blackened, 
307;  bearing  Etruscan  inscriptions,  i.  ci. 
cii. :  inscribed  with  tlie  Etruscan  alphabet, 
i.  172,  271 :  ii.  224 ;  with  an  unknown  tongue, 
i.  xcviii. ;  imitations  of  Greek  vases,  ci.,  cv, ; 
names  of  the  various  shapes,  cvi. 

■ ,  Greek,  found  in  Etruria,  i.  Ixxxviii., 

cv. ;  painted,  classiKed  according  to  styles,  i. 
Ixxxviii.;  Egyptian,  or  Asiatic,  Ixxxviii.; 
Doric,  Ixxxix. ;  Etruscan,  or  Tyrrliene, 
xci. ;  the  '  Perfect,'  xciii. ;  the  Decadence, 
xcv.;  classified  according  to  form  and  use, 
cvi.;  ii.  460;  why  placed  in  tombs,  i.  xcvi.; 
Panathenaic,  xciii.;  ii.  467;  witli  Greek  in- 
scriptions, i.  c. ;  ii.  113,  462:  with  the 
Pelasgic  alphabet,  i.  271;  with  Pelasgic 
hexameters,  273;  of  Yeii,  fix  the  date  of  tlie 
art,  39;  home-made,  or  imported,  xcviii.; 
oommerce  in,  xcviii.;  witli  eyes,  469,  471; 
ii.  473;  o))inions  on.  i.  471;  adorned  witli 
wreaths,  395:  the  Fr:in(;i>is,  ii.  ll;i— 115; 
restoration  of,  i.  469;  mended  by  the  ancients, 
i.  409;  ii.  470,  471 :  value  of,  i.  xcvii.;  burnt, 
xcvi.;  red,  of  Arretium,  ii.  383;  factory  of 
Eoraan,  369 ;  of  Sabina,  like  those  of  Eti-uria, 
i.  135;  Munddne,  xcvii. 


VIA   VEIENTAXA. 

Yaults,  in  Etruscan  tombs,  ii.  338,  339,  400, 
450 

Veientines,  their  skill  as  potters,  i.  13,  40 

Yeii,  site  of,  i.  1 ;  one  of  the  Twelve  cities,  28  ; 
walls,  4,  5,  11,  12;  gates,  9,  10,  12,  14;  of 
bra.ss,  Ixxiv. ;  Arx,  5,  25,  29  :  euuiculus  of 
CamiUus,  7,  8,  24 ;  temple  of  Juno,  7 ; 
bridges,  10,  13,  14;  Ponte  Sodo,  11 ;  extent 
of  the  city,  15;  ancr.  19;  history,  18—24; 
siege,  6,  23;  kings,  22.  28,32,  125;  wine, 
19;  tombs,  10,  25,  31  ;  Grotta  Canipana,  33 
— 42,  367;  columbavium,  10;  excavations, 
31 ;  pottery,  13,  39,  iO.  282 ;  lloman  colony 
of,  16,  494":  Roman  rem;iius,  4,  5,  16 

A'ejovis,  or  Vedius,  an  Etruscan  thundei"- 
wielding  god,  i.  Ivii. 

Yel,  or  Yul,  an  Etruscan  initial,  i.  445  ;  ii. 
139 

Yelathri,  ii.  139,  190 

Velchas,  tomb  of  the.  i.  339,  346 

Yelinmas,  the  Etruscan  form  of  Yoluiunius,  ii. 
438  ;  tomb  of,  437 

Velinia,  ii.  439 

Yelletri,  ii.  139 ;  archaic  reliefs  found  at,  i. 
Ixxii.,  220,310 

Velsina,  ii.  20 

Velthur,  an  Etruscan  family,  i.  337,  477  ;  ii- 
17,  33,  199 

Venus,  called  Turan,by  the  Etruscans,  i.  Ivii. 

Ai)hakitis,  shrhie  and  lake  of,  ii.  110 

and   Cupid,   in   bronze,    i.   415;   and 

Adonis,  on  mirrors,  ii.  429,  430 

Verentum,  i.  494 

Yermiglioli,  Cav.,  ii.  433,  437  ;  his  answer  to 
Sir  W.  Betham,  441 :  his  death,  127 

Vermilion,  the  conventional  hue  of  gods  and 
heroes,  i.  247,  312,  477  ;  ii.  90 

Verona,  Etruscan  inscription  found  at,  i. 
xxxviii. 

Yertumnus,  an  Etruscan  god.  i.  Ivii. ;  ii.  33 

VeruLr,  sewers  of,  ii.  251 

Vcsentum,  i.  494  :  ii.  30 

Vesi,  tomb  of  the,  i.  339 

Vestibule,  to  a  tomb,  i.  120 :  at  Ciere,  277 

VeternensLs,  Massa,  ii.  198,  199 

Veti,  tomb  of  the,  ii.  446 

Vetralla,  i.  80,  194:  inn  at,  194;  guide,  195 

Vetulonia,  falsely  placed  at  \'iteibo,  i.  151 ; 
at  Vulci,  446  ;  at  Castiglion  Beniardi,  ii. 
196;  in  the  mountains  near  Campigha,  ii. 
206  ;  at  Campiglia  itself,  209 ;  at  Massa,  or 
its  neighbourhood,  198 :  at  Orbetello,  263 ; 
at  Castagncto,  202  ;  at  Colonna  di  Buriano, 
223 ;  most  probably  near  Magliano,  269 ; 
size  of,  265  ;  local  remains,  266 ;  history  of, 
269;  insignia  of  Empire  derived  from,  270  ; 
maritime  cliaractcr  of,  272  ;  established  by 
monumental  evidence.  273 ;  coins  ascribed 
to,  272  :  destruction  of,  uncertain,  273 

Via  jEmilia,  ii.  534 

Amerina,  i.  86, 102,  111,  119, 120, 142, 145 

■  Appia,  i.  456 ;  ii.  257 

Amelia,  i.  221,  226,  294,  433,  436,  437, 

439;  ii.  202,  211.  238 

Cassia,  i.  2,  5,  54,  58,  59,  63,  79,  80,  194; 

ii.  313,  374 

Clodia,  i.  55,  61,  218,  482, 490 ;  ii.  280 

Flaminia.  i.  29,  47,  58,  122,  123,  127 

Salaria,  i.  44,  49 

Yeientaua,  i.  5 


INDEX. 


575 


VIIIENNA. 

Vihcnna,  i.  449,  477 ;  ii.  20,  25,  86,  94,  93, 
•51)6,  507 

Vieurcllo,  large  find  of  coins  at,  i.  60 ;  ii. 
496 

Vieo,  La;jro  di,  i.  416 

Vitus  Matrini,  i.  79 

Visriiancllo,  i.  121 

A'illanova,  cemetery  of,  ii.  512-517 

Yir-in-toiubs.  i.  26o,  388,  390  ;  ii.  27 

Visconti,  on  the  Giotta  Torlonia,  i.  277 

Visor,  Etruscan,  ii.  476 

ViTEuno,  i.  150;  supposed  to  be  Fanuni 
Voltunma',  151 ;  more  probably  Surriria, 
152  ;  ancient  remains,  152  ;  the  iJa/zichelli 
collection,  153;  inn,  1.55;  half  of  the  Nor- 
chian  pediment,  200 ;  road  from  Vetralla, 
193  :  from  Toscanella  to,  488 

Titorchiano,  singular  privilege  of,  i.  163 ; 
peopled  from  Xorchia,  204 

Vitruvius,  hisdetinition  of  emplectoa  masonry, 
i.  80;  on  the  monuments  of  Fereutum,  161; 
on  city-gates,  101 ;  ii.  148,  251 ;  on  towers, 
248 

Vittori,  his  work  on  Bomarzo,    i.  172 

Vitozzn,  i.  .501 

Vol.\terr.t;,  one  of  the  Twelve,  i.  xxxi.;  ii. 
138;  site  of  the  city,  137;  history, 138;  a{fcr, 
138;  Etruscan  name,  139;  maritime  charac- 
ter, 138 ;  defended  by  Cicero,  i;i9  ;  walls,  i. 
13,  80;  ii.  138,  145-149;  at  .Sta  Chiara,  145; 
at  the  Seminario,  149  ;  I'orta  all'  Arco,  140; 
Porta  di  Diana,  147  ;  urns  of,  in  the  Campo 
Santo  at  Pisa,  72;  in  the  Uttizi  at  Florence, 
90 ;  in  the  Museum  of  Volterra,  161 :  in  the 
Gregorian  Museum,  455 ;  their  date,  i. 
Ixxvi. ;  ii.  154,  186  ;  jewellery,  191 ;  pot- 
tery. 77,  188 ;  sarcophagi  in  the  Museum, 
183;bronzes,  1.55, 189;  warriorin relief,  188; 
size  of  the  city,  149;  amphitheatre,  149; 
Piscina,  150;  Terme,  1-50:  necropolis,  151; 
Grotta  de'  ilarmini,  151;  tomb  of  the 
Ciccina',  152;  Tholi,  1.54;  excavations,  155, 
157,  158,  160;  Greek  coins,  155;  Buche  de' 
Saracini,  158;  Saline,  195;  scenery,  156; 
Porta  a  Selci,  185.     Svv  Voltekra  " 

Tolnius,  ii.  439.     See  Volunmius 

Volpajo,  ii.  369 

Volsci,  subject  to  Etruria,  i.  xxviii.  445 

Volscian  reliefs  from  Velletri,  i.  Lsxii.  220, 
310 

YoLsiNii,  history  of,  ii.  20;  castles,  19;  Etrus- 
can name,  20;  coins,  20;  one  of  the  Twelve, 
20;  two  thousand  statues,  21 ;  insurrection 
of  slaves,  21,  22,  32;  site  of,  23;  Etrus- 
can city  destroyed,  23 ;  local  remains,  23, 
26  ;  temple  of  Jfortia,  24;  amphitheatre,  25; 
excavations,  26 ;  lake  of,  19, 26,  29  ;  islands, 
29;  miracle,  28;  quarries,  i.  161,  493;  ii. 

29.      See  BOLSENA 

Volta,  the  monster,  ii.  22,  178 
Volte KK A,  roads  to,  ii.   136;  inn,  140;  ala- 
basters, 140;  Museum,  160;  Le  Baize,  147. 

.S'(V   VoLATERK.E 

Voltunma.  an  Etruscan  goddess,  i.  Ivii.  151 ; 
ii.  33,   199.  439;  her  sliriue,  i.   151.     See 

FaXU.M  VOLTIMX.E 

Volunniia,  Lucia,  ii.  439 

Volunniii,  tomb  of  the,  ii.  437  ;  inscription  on 

door-po^t,    438;    sepulchral   banquet,  438; 

urns,  438;  painted  scene  on  an  urn,  439; 


temple-urn,  440;   decorations,  441;  furni- 
ture, 444  ;  the  Velimnas  family,  444  ;   date 
of  the  tomb,  445  ;  anotlier  tomb  of  the,  443 
I   Volumnius,  or  Voluius,  a  writer  of  Etruscan 
tragedies,  i.  1.x. ;  ii.  439 
Votive  offerings,  ii.  108,  109,  4-59,  483 
'    Vulcan,  called  Sethlans  by  the  Etruscans,  i. 
Ivii. ;  ii.  482  ;  worshipped  at  Perusia,  435 
Vulci,  recently  rediscovered,  i.  437,  447;  grand 
biidge  and  aqueduct,  440 — 444  ;  site  of  the 
city,  444  ;  no  history,  444;  Etruscan  charac- 
ter of  the  name,  414  ;  connection  with  the 
Volsci,  445;  ii.  261 ;  Koman  remains,  i.  444, 
I       446;  necropolis,  448,  451 ;  tomb  of  tlie  Sun 
I       and  iloon,   274,  448;  painted  tombs,  449, 
;       465  ;  the  Cucumella,  452 ;  Grotta  d'  Iside, 
457 ;    painted  ya.ses,   461 — 463  ;   compared 
with   those  of    Tarquinii,  462;    gold   and 
'       jewellery,  463;  ii.  485;  inscription,  487; 
terra-cottas,  i.  463 ;  bronzes,  469  ;  frescoes, 
ii.  503—508 


W 


Wailino-womex,  i.  .323;  ii.  301.  315,  366; 

why  they  beat  their  breasts,  and  tore  their 

flesh,  i.  xcvi. ;  ii.  301 
"Wallachia,  torque  found  in,  i.  xxx\-ii. 
Warriors,  figures  of,   ii.   87,   105,   111,  491  ; 

reUefs  of,  106,  125,  188,  315 
Warrior-tombs,  i,  37,  268,  388,  413,  414,  455 
"Water-channels  in  roads,  i.  89,  119,  209,  214: 

ii.  13 

in  the  ani])hitheati-e  of  Sutri,  i.  73 

■in  tombs,  i.  77;  ii.  411 


Water-snakes  on  Etruscan  monuments,  i.  168 
Wathen,   Mr.,   on   the  arches    in    Egyptian 

tombs,  i.  Lxvii. ;  on  the  origin  of  heraldry, 

i.  285 
Weapons,  Etruscan,  ii.  476 ;  in  tombs,  i.  267 ; 

discovery  of,  in  a  lake,  ii.  109 
Welcker,  Prof.,  on  Vulci,  i.  463 
Well-tombs,  i.  162, 183;  ii.  312,  336,  340,  341, 

365,  518,  522,  539,  540 

earthenware  lining  to,  ii.  494 

Westphal,  on  the  Xovem  Pagi,  i.  60 ;  on  site 

of  Gravisca;,  431 
Wheel  on  Etruscan  coins,  ii.  402,  427 
Whorls  of  terra-cotta,  ii.  515 
Wild-beasts,  sepulchral  emblems,  i.  391 ;  ii. 

77,  114;  on  the  lamp  of  Cortona,  404;  on 

yases,  462;  i.  xc. 
Wilkinson,  Sir  G.,  on  Egyptian  tombs  with 

arched  roofs,  i.  Ixvii. ; "  his  description  of 

the  tomb  at  Bcni  Ilassan,  ii.  133  ;  of  the 

tomb   of  the  lleliefs,   at  Cervetri,  i.  253, 

255 
Windows  in  tombs,  i.   208,  216,  238 ;    in  a 

shaft  opening  into  tombs,  ii.  335 
Wines  of  Etruria,  i.  19,  230,  435,  493  ;  ii.  19, 

66,  371,  380 
Wings,  attributes  of  genii  and  demons,  i.  198, 

200,  287,  342.  .353,  3-54  ;  ii.  ^,  94 
Witt,  Sig.  K.  de,  excavations  nt  Orbetello,  ii. 

241 
Wolf  of  the  Cai)itol.  i.  Ixxiv. ;  ii.  90,  492 
Wolves  of  Sorjicte,  i.  134,  135 
Women,  treatment   of,  in   Etruria,  i.   Ixiv.; 

ei]uality   with    men,   310;   proved   by   the 


i576 


INDEX. 


WOODEX    BOWLS. 

unis.  ii.  16J ;  probably  educated,  163;  Etrus- 
can, maliorned  by  the  Greeks,!.  321;  usod 
rou?e,  321 ;  modesty  of,  321 ;  unchastity  of, 
xlv. ;  beauty  of,  476,  478 ;  effigies  of,  '459, 
460 :  fondness  of,  for  wine,  ii.  91 ;  Koman, 
91 
Vooden  bowls  in  Etruscan  tombs,  i.  414 
"Wreaths    in    Etruscan    tombs,  ii.    28.     See 

Chaplets 
Wrestlers,  Etruscan,  i.  365;  ii.  323,  327,  333, 
342 


Xaxthus,  an  historian  of  Lydia,  i.  x.txv.  xl. 
Xeroeampo,  bridge  of,  i.  \s.\ii. ;  ii.  250 
Ximenes,  the  Marchese  Panciatichi,  ii.  277 


ZIllI. 

Y. 


TucAT.vx,  pseudo-arches  of,  i,  266  ;  fascinum 
on  monuments  of,  ii.  120 


Zacchio,    Zaccaria,    describes    ruins    called 

Yetulonia,  ii.  207 
Zambra,  tombs  of,  i.  265,  278,  293 
Zannaui,  Cav.  A.,  his  beautiful  work  on  the 

Certosa,  IJologna,  ii.  512 ;  liis  excavations, 

517;  on  '■'■tiutiiuiiibula,'''  533 
Zeus  and  Aigina,  ii.  469 
Zilli,  relics  found  at,  i.  xxxvii. 
Ziri,  ii.  299.    ISee  "VN'ell-tombs 


ADDENDA    TO    VOL.    II. 


Page  14,  to  note  G — A  tomb  at  Sovana  was  found  to  contain  a  necklace  of 
electron^  tlie  mixed  metal,  an  unijuenturium  of  alabaster  in  the 
form  of  a  woman's  bust,  in  imitation  of  the  lOgyptian,  like  those 
from  the  Isis-tomb,  Vulci,  some  kkntld  in  the  Corintiiian  style, 
and  a  small  figure  of  blue  smalt,  with  hieroglyphics,  recognized 
by  Lepsius  as  real  Egyptian,  of  the  2(3th  dynasty,  or  between 
G73  and  527  b.c.  Such  figures  were  called  "  abschti"  or  "  an- 
swerers," and  were  placed  in  tombs  to  secure  for  the  souls  of 
the  deceased  certain  advantages  in  the  other  world.  Ann.  Inst. 
1870,  p.  242.— Helbig. 

Pcifje  lOG — .Since  the  description  in  the  text  was  written,  the  Etruscan 
^luseum  at  Florence  has  received  some  important  additions  ; 
among  them  an  interesting  collection  of  bronzes  recently  found 
near  Telamone,  and  exhibited  by  Signor  Vivarelli  of  Pistoja. 
Also  a  large  stone  sarcophagus  with  a  gable  roof,  at  each  angle 
of  which  is  a  sphinx  couchant,  and  on  the  ridge  at  each  end  a 
lion.  Beneath  each  of  these  beasts  is  a  large  human  face  in 
relief,  the  central  one,  in  one  pediment,  being  a  male,  flanked  by 
two  females  ;  in  the  opposite  pediment  a  female  face,  between 
two  of  the  other  sex.  Whether  the  lions  and  sphinxes  are 
supposed  to  be  protecting  the  souls  of  the  persons  here  jiortrayed, 
or  to  be  regarding  their  heads  as  their  prey,  is  not  easy  to 
determine.  This  singular  sarcophagus  is  from  Orvieto.  But  the 
most  important  mommient  of  Etruscan  anti(pnty  newly  acquired 
is  a  large  sarcophagus  from  Chiusi,  with  a  female  figure  of 
life-size  reclining  on  the  lid,  the  interest  of  which  lies  not  in  the 
beauty  of  her  form,  which  is  deficient  in  synmietry,  her  legs  and 
arms  being  of  unequal  length,  but  in  the  admirable  illustration 
it  presents  of  the  costume  and  decorations  of  an  Etruscan  lady  of 
rank.  The  Avell-known  effigy  on  the  "  Aphunei "  sarcophagus 
from  the  Casuccini  collection  (see  p.  31 G)  is  instnictive  in  this 
respect  ;  but  the  marble  in  that  case,  if  ever  tinted,  has  now  lost 
its  hues,  and  presents  nothing  but  forms,  while  this  monument 
glows  with  colour,  and  shows  us  not  only  the  dress  luit  the  A'ery 
hues  and  patterns  that  were  in  fashion  in  Etruria  at  the  period  to 
which    it  belongs.     Tlie   lady   Avho   is  here   elfigied   was   named 

"  Larthia  Seianti  S "  i.e.  of  the  family  of  Sejanus,  the  latter 

part  of  the  designatory  inscription  l)eiiig  illegible.  Her  eyes  and 
hair  are  brown,  and  a  fillet  of  yellow  fiowers  circles  her  brow, 
spotted  with  red  and  green,  probably  to  represent  rubies  and 
emeralds.  She  wears  a  white  talaric  chiton,  with  short  sleeves, 
and  decorated  with  a  vandyked  border  of  Tyrian  purple  round 
the  neck  and  shoulders,  and  also  round  the  bottom  of  the  slcirt 
AOL.  Ti.  r  1' 


o78  ADDENDA    TO    VOL.    II. 

(just  as  Proserpine  is  represented  in  the  woodcuts  at  p.  351  of 
S'ol.  I.,  and  at  p.  58  of  Vol.  II.),  but  showing  also  a  broad 
longitudinal  stripe  of  the  same  purple  on  each  side  of  her  body 
down  to  her  very  feet.  Her  himation  is  also  white,  with  a  deej) 
purple  border,  and  -n  gh-dle  of  gold  cloth,  studded  with  rubies,  is 
tied  beneath  her  bosom,  terminating  in  tassels  of  the  same.  Her 
sandals  are  also  of  purple,  with  soles  of  gold,  and  an  emerald 
clasp  between  the  first  and  second  toe.  She  wears  earrings, 
necklace  and  brooch  of  gold,  with  a  Medusa's  head  in  the  last,  a 
bracelet  and  armlet  in  a  double  chain  of  the  same  metal  studded 
Avith  rubies  on  her  right  arm,  with  which  she  is  drawing  her  veil 
forward  ;  but  she  wears  no  rings  on  that  hand.  Her  left  hand, 
liowever,  in  which  she  holds  a  mirror,  or  more  probably  tablets, 
circled  with  a  gold  beading,  is  laden  with  rings,  a  massive  one  on 
her  thumb,  one  also  on  the  first  and  last  finger  respectively,  none 
on  tlie  middle,  but  two  on  the  wedding  finger,  both  of  large  size 
and  set  with  rubies.  Her  figure  displays  no  gilding,  the  gold  in 
every  case  being  represented  by  yellow  paint.  She  reclines  on 
two  cushions,  the  upper  being  yellow,  to  represent  cloth  of  gold, 
with  purple  stripes,  and  a  deep  gold  fringe  ;  the  lower  of  purple, 
with  narrow  white  stripes,  and  a  purple  fringe.  Her  urn  is 
decorated  with  bastard  Ionic  colunms,  alternating  with  bossed 
2)hialce  and  sunflowers,  which  glow  with  red,  yellow,  purple  and 
green  in  all  their  original  briUiancy.  This  monument  is  perhaps 
the  finest  specimen  of  Etruscan  polychromy  yet  brought  to  light. 

Page  178,  to  note  .3. — It  is  a  mis-statement  that  there  is  "  no  recorded 
evidence  "  of  the  i^ractice  of  human  sacrifices  among  the  Etrus- 
cans, for  ^lacrobius  (Saturn.  I.  7)  informs  us  that  boys  were 
sacrificed  by  Tarquinius  Superbus  to  ilania,  the  mother  of  the 
Lares,  but  that  this  custom  was  abolished  by  Junius  Brutus  after 
the  expulsion  of  that  tyrant,  and  the  heads  of  garlic  and  poppies 
offered  in  their  stead. 

Page  200,  to  note  5. — In  1877  a  rich  stratum  of  tin  was  discovered  in  the 
secondary  limestone  in  the  Poggio  del  Fumacchio  near  Campiglia, 
with  traces  of  ancient  workings.  Deecke's  Midler,  ii.  p.  255.  For 
the  old  copper-mines  in  the  Poggio  Caporciano,  see  Targioni 
Tozzetti,  I.  p.  214. 

Page  233. — Note  to  the  "  bronze  divinity  from  Kusella?."  See  a  Paper  on  this 
"Antique  Statuette"  by  Mr.  C.  W.  King,  M.A.,  of  Trinity 
College,  in  Vol.  IV.  of  the  Cambridge  Antiquarian  Society's  Com- 
munications. 

Page  309,  to  note  5. — Since  this  note  was  in  print.  I  have  seen  the  collec- 
tion of  Trojan  antiquities  at  the  South  Kensington  Museum,  and 
liave  no  hesit.ation  in  declaring  my  firm  belief  that  not  one  single 
pot  there  exhibited  bears  the  face  of  an  owl,  and  that  all  those 
marked  with  eyes  are  attempts,  more  or  less  rude,  at  the  repre- 
sentation of  the  human  face,  and  therefore,  as  suggested  in  the 
text,  have  a  strict  analogy  to  the  canopi  of  the  Etruscans.  If 
they  be  really  cinerary  pots,  they  give  rise  to  a  new  view  of  His- 
sarlik,  which,  at  the  period  to  which  they  belong,  must  have 
been  used  as  a  necropolis.     AVe  are  led  then  to  conclude  either 


ADDENDA    TO    VOL.    II.  579 

that  this  jiriiiiitive  people  marie  a  practice  of  Imryins  their  dead 
witliin  tlieir  walls,  or  tliat  the  city  they  iiihahited  occupied  a  dif- 
ferent site.  The  upright  projections  on  some  of  the  pots,  which 
Dr.  Schliemann  takes  for  the  wings  of  his  imaginary  owl,  and 
which  are  much  more  like  homs,  appear  to  me  to  be  mere  handles. 

Page  447,  to  note  5. — Whether  Lucius  Accius,  the  writer  of  tragedies,  and 
of  the  Roman  annals  in  verse,  who  lived  in  the  second  century 
]!.r.,  and  is  often  (puited  by  Cicero,  Macrobius,  and  others,  was  of 
Etruscan  origin,  we  are  not  told,  but  it  is  probable  enough. 

Page  495,  to  twte  3. — Similar  ware  has  been  discovered  actually  beneath 
the  foimdations  of  the  walls  of  Servius  Tidlius,  near  the  Villa 
Cascrta,  mixed  with  fragments  of  white  unglazed  pottery  bearing 
pauited  bands,  and  with  flint  instruments.  It  bears  a  close  analogy 
to  the  pottery  of  Alba  Loiiga,  with  which  it  is  probably  coeval,  and 
must  be  prior  to  the  age  of  Servius.  Bull.  Inst.  187.5,  p.  '2.30. — 
De  Rossi. 

Page  503,  to  note  9. — Since  writing  the  above,  I  have  ascertained,  on  the 
authority  of  a  renowned  Egyptologist,  that  the  hieroglyphics  on 
these  bowls  are  not  legible  as  Egyptian,  and  are  therefore  mere 
imitations,  and  in  all  probability  Phoenician,  as  Dr.  Ilelljig  main- 
tains. 

Page  515,  to  note  2. — But  the  opinion  broached  by  Professor  Antonio 
Salinas,  Director  of  the  ^luscum  at  Palermo,  appears  much  more 
consistent  with  probability — that  these  whorls  served  as  weights, 
iiyvv6fs,  Xaiai,  to  kee])  the  threads  of  the  warp  straight  in  an 
upright  loom.     Bull.  Inst.  1864,  p.  36. 


ERRATA    IN    VOL.    II. 


Page  10,  liiic  2  fmm  the  Iwttoin,  for  "  as  no  ven-  early  date,"  read  "  as  of  no  verj-  early  ilate." 
„     2S,  note  8,  line  I,  for  "  \>.  11,"  read  "  p.  14." 
„     35,  line  8, /or  "bosom,"  rend  ".shores." 
„    S-2,     ,,    .S, /or  "  Ma>na(l,"  r«K?  "  Ma-iiads." 
„    S-5,     „  20, /or  "  four,"  rftn?  "  eight." 
.,     85,     ,,  30, /or  "that,"  r( (1(7  "one." 

,,    80,    ,,    0, /or  "The  other  three  eases,"  rcn!?  "Three  other  cases." 
„    9i,    ,,  25, /or  rt<  sciifeiioc  "One  of  the  einerarj"  Tinis  .  .  .  .  Iiears,  Arc."  rcf(<?  "  For  one  einerar>' 

urn,  formerly  at  Chiusi,  but  said  to  have  lieen  transferred  to  this  Collection,  I  looke>l 

in  vain.     It  liears,  &e. " 
,,    95,    ,,  12,/or  "are,"  rw?  "  were." 

.,  110,     „  13,  for  "  the  latter,"  read  "  these  olijects,"  and  /or  "  former,"  reaiJ  "  trees." 
„  132,  to  note  7,  add  "  Heraclides,  ap.  Athen.  xiL  5." 

„  180,  Bote  1,  for  "  desi>atfhing  Belleroiihon  to  Lycia,"  rend  "  making  advances  to  Bellerophon." 
,,  190,  line  3  from  the  bottom,  for  "  huckle,"  read  "  knuckle." 
„  337,  note  3,  line  2,  ajter  "  218,"  add  "Bull.  Inst.  187(5,  p.  152." 
„  345,  in  the  quotation  from  A'ii^il,  for  "  Ut  quondan,"  read  "  Ut  quondam." 
.,  416,  not€  5, /or  "augmentative,  read  "derivative." 
„  428,  line  19,  for  "  left  thigh,"  read  "  right  thigh." 
„  431,  note  5,  add  "  Bull.  Inst.  1858,  p.  61,  ct  seij. — Conestabile." 
,,  442,  line  11  from  tlie  bottom,  for  "  eimefcir,"  read  "  cimeter." 
,,446,     ,,      7, /or  "  Baglione,"  rcc!<?  "  Baglioui." 
„  475,    ,,    11  from  the  bottom, /or  "cvkvkAoi,"  rea.d  "  evicuicAoi." 
„  480,     ,,      8  from  the  1x)ttom,/o/'  Vic  sentence  "but  this  one,  &c.,"  rem?  "  but  this  one  from  n 

tomb  at  Vulci  does  not  yield  in  beautj-  to  any  yet  known,  save  to  that  peerless  one 

in  the  Kircheriau  Museum." 
„  486,    „    2\,  for  the  sentence  "  These  decorations,  kc,"  read  "Tliese  bowls  appear  to  l>e  purely 

Egyptian,  but  are  now  pronounced  to  be  mere  imitations  by  Phceuician  artists." 
,,  507,  note  9,  line  1  in  the  second  column,  after  "  Ct."  insert  "  Liv.  I.  55." 
,,  514,  line  4  from  the  bottom, /or  "At  a  later  period,"  reajd  "  In  those  of  a  later  pericxl." 
,,535,    ,,   2, /or  "the  ossuar>%"  read  "tlie  ossuarj- i>ot." 
,,536,    ,,  9, /or  "one  exception,"  read  "verj- few  exceptions." 


THE    END. 


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